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AUSTRIA.

VIENNA, PRAGUE, HUNGARY,

BOHEMIA, AND THE DANUBE;

OALICIA, STYRIA, MORAVIA, BUKOTINA,

AND

THE MILITARY FRONTIER.

B ¥ J. g' K H L.

LONDON:
CHAPMAN AND HALL. 186. STRAND.

1844.

^P^-^rt^

/HvsU''.-) u-

/■To.-,

0. *■ 6 = i'

C. WmtTKO, ■K4BI0XT HODBE, nKAND.

fTENTS.

*T •?■ TUBt

SOHEHXA.

From DntdcD u Tcpliu I

I Ti^pliu to Pntfov 1 1

!.— ThoVlMtlimd U

MetropoJtUn Church on the

Hradshio sa

'Tublic iDstilutioDii and CoureaU 34

The Jenn' Qattet 44

Bipular Somes Ln Frmuo it

The Vsttonal HoramcBt unong the

T Mtfm iitif 61

ThaBookofLUbantheHoIdKtt C8

Fram Vngve to Budvsla. 73

The GaatlH and B««m uf Schwmr-

jWiiWnt > TA

Frgu Builwtd* to Liiu 81

tIPPEH AUSTRIA.

liDi^-The Cnrpct ataiiuikcmtr sg

iTIn- WsdluHUie. 91

rcmdl Sdicol 95

orinokl HiMvum 9G

•tenrofSt-iToruHi. 87

lit tathe Ui»uc of ui AnMriui Pea-

MWt IM

Till)!!!- Librwj- IM

Tb<- l^cliuv tiallny betwcsn lini and

Vicwu lUO

« IjOWEH AUSTRIA.

Vlaiiift.n Bettcb 12S

Viiit to St. Ktvphea'a Tawor 127

Llbe Menagerir at Soliiinhnmn 13a

FnfaKhclwttihfT — FiihiDan^cn

andDwIen in Guni: 139

'-nighfai' DroMu* and Flower

P#*ti»»I« Hi

TV l*rnjiii«l Npw QtiiirtPf 149

Till' (jnnrirr (if llii' Nnhltily uh) ihiit of

ihr MiiniirMctiiirn. ..,. fSI

The Sl»ip» of Vimtw ti.t

Hoitntul* » Hi

Smdkjr Wklk* leo

KtoMurnMilraTit 164

VAOK

■^ m'NQAKT.

OediailnirK. Ziaunilun'. Eslcrtift^, ud

thw Nci^edkr Lake 171

The UorutofHaiiMgUid theOnl}'** 17V

The lUabau lud lUati IBS

Till! Ahlipvof Murtinihurg 191

Thi- Diuiubo fniu Uaab to ruth...... 196

BtuU.— DcMh «0«

Tlw Fair nt PmUi SM

TheC«nKTi.-);itiimofNolilw 119

lite lliiili;:!- nt IVath SSO

Thu Itu^Tuui T(nrn — TurUsh Baths

aiul Onnnttit 1'il);rim«. 234

HolvU Btid CuUin at Pctlli S19

Tlic HtmKnrian lAtenay Soday. and

the lIuntforiaD bnguaeiA lU

Orcii,or»udA Stt

Pablic CoUectiofu tta

ThoJowi of Pwili Mi

Hoipitalof St. Rnchf S4T

The Dasobc In the Central Plains of

HOBgw. SSI

ThoBabcakaaud it* German Cciloiii>t> 3M

Svnnta aod Brttrvatditn. — SftT

TheHoutbcftbeSavo— — s«0

Steamboat life 3«1

Cataiactt of the DaAtibe. 343

ANiKhliu tlic Mllitarr FniDticr. MS

Political ImpoTtaucc of the KUlitarT-

PirviitkY Mf

The Lower Clwmra. »71

VisittoaTtirkiihPuha S7S

AtutTian Onom 177

The HvcuIm Bath* at Kehndia tT9

Upper VtSkj of ilic Ttlicnu, and Uk

of the Bwdciwi. M4

The KuTv of Tertfova and Slatina SS3

KaruiNbet 198

LusiM. TMnc'irar. and tho Baaat Vevcr 301

H rat Shower. MB

Finl liilirrnl uf SuiuhiDO MM

ikcood Sliuwur tW

Seccnd SunaUne 910

Third Sbowcr..... „ 319

C0NTEHT8.

PAX»

The Cfdoniei and Lowlands of the

BuMt 313

ThoQghta'on the Feacefdl MigntioDi

or Etir(^)eui Nation* 317

Tbe StaToniaiu 319

The Greeks 320

IV It>lianB;aDd French. 331

The Gennanic Nations 381

Hw Snbordinate and Dependant

Bhm 323

"nicKBanati 327

Siegedinand the Italian Prisoners 333

Hw Fsiten and th^ Inhabitant* 341

TheKmnanen.YazjKen, and Hsidacken 346

Heaths of KeUkemet 349

StnUweissenboT);. — Vesprira. 354

Convent ofTibaoj.and the Flattenlske 365
Baconf Foresti its Poets, Castles, and
Bobbers 373

'^ STTBIA-

Fiintenfeld to Oiatz 386

Gi«t« 387

Vrom Glitz to Leoben 394

Eisenarzt and the Eisenherg 397

TheStTiian Rocks 401

The Abbey of Admont 404

The Upper Valley of the Enns 407

The Salt District of Stjria 408

The Austrian Salt District. 413

'nie Gaisberg 415

PKU

Salsbarg 419

FaieweO to Atutiia a*

BDKOVTNA 4SS

■^ GAIICIA.

From Tshemovitze to Lcmberg. 432

Soiatyn and StanisIaTor 436

From StanislaTOT to Stry 440

Stry _... 445

From Stiy to Lemberg 446

Lemberfc 44B

The Polish Jews 458

The Germanisation (^ Oalicia 463

The Galician Nobles 467

Orudek, Moabidu, and Taro^r 46t

Loniat 477

HiesTDT, Rlsno, and Tamor 480

The Salt-works of VieUczka 489

Cracow 498

ToAftoTze 507

Landskorona and Biala 5tO

Austrian Silesia 512

-> MORAVIA.

ThcKnhlindl 515

Olmiitz 517

The Hanna 520

Anstcrlitz S3S

Briinn SS3

The Castles of the Great Austrian No-
bility 52T

PREFACE.

The following pages consist chiefly of a condensed trans-
lation of a work in five volumes, published by Mr. Kohl
in 1842, under the title of " A Hxmdred Days in Austria,"
comprising an account of a tour through Bohemia, Axistria,
Hungary, and the Military Frontier. To this has been
added the concluding volume of that gentleman's work on
Russia, containing his remarks on the Bukovina, Galicia,
and Moravia; which, as not referring in any way to Russia,
were omitted in the two first parts of the Foreign Library ;
but which, on account of their intrinsic value, have been
deemed a fitting sequel to the Austrian tour.

BOHEMIA.

rt«

TBQU DBESDEN TO TEPLITZ.

To trftvet or not to tniTcI

once more
or (a rem&iii an

the quesdoR. To wander, to
d K^ioot out ronta lilu! a tree.
Wliether 'twaa uabW in a. ninn to ttnd tin own )ittl«> gftrdcn, or to aim
lunMlf Agaiiut s lea of troubles, uiil plough his way round our tcrrcatriil
plaoet? A ItouHc, or a tent '' A warm nx»in. or a wiiidy seal in a jtost-
comI) ? A Bhady tree, or a budless stalT ? One friend, or a tnoiuiuid fncndly
bow?

I mutt own I had Iii'ard in a quirt little farm on the I>B.nks of tlic Elbe,
th« L-acktiiig- uf hens and the crowing of cocks ; I had vitiied the peaceful
eh«inb«n, and the coiv garclnt with its circlinf^ wall ; had seen the uoti-
tented cattle fultrniiif; in ihfir sUlU, nnd the (rniptvr liiid >&id to me,
"Might not all lhi« Vw thine? and niightst thou not <iit<l here all tliat
thou welteM in the wido world, and bcRrest thou not in thy avra birasL a
world that catniot ome to a birth for wajit of repoie i" — " Yes, if a wiah
could cotnmaud rojioie, who wnuld fardc)!) bear, and groan and sweat he-
aeath ■ losd of Inivclltng tn<iibh>ai''' I n-pUcd to my lulvUin^ friend,
whispered many other things into his ear that were not intend*-!! for tha
crowd, and conduded with these words: " Lmih, my dear friend, thu.« it
is that neei«tnty makes hra>e men of tia, attd riitt-qiniva that seem full of
great pith and moment, with thii tcapt-ct loeo much ^f the merit aMribcd
to iJicm." Ro savin;[7, I once mosv took lenve of him, and stepped into
tlie Saxon I'osiwwjfH that had been Handing for some time ready har-
lussed in the court^-ard of the IKlif^^ncc oSktrn at Dreaden. I wsa nboiit
to atort for Teplitx, there to connpi niyiclf to the )(vV[iinp of a Uoheniian
«diicle, by the aid of which 1 hojwd to reach the drnp-roUiog Uiumlie,
where I fully intended to enihurk on a steamer tliat should convoy aw. to
Vienoa. After that 1 coutMupIated iutrustiug my pcnoa to a Ilnngarijii
Baucrtetiffm, and altonintcly hy Iniid auid Iiy water, iioiiie times witli the
aid of a living steed, and souietitiies by that of tlie niitny-honed power of
the unquiet steam-engine, to pre«s forward to the confine* of Turkey, and
"when 1 luul done all this, my puipne wm to return quietly to my uaUiu
laiid.

Such was my plan^ but in the execution of it I wiu delayed for full five
voioutes, by a countryiDan of the gallant Folcoubridge. '^ A proper maa't
ptctai*," u Portia uya; i. e. an £jigli«hmaii, mne rushing intotho court-
yard, just as tlie horu!* were starting. His apjiearance was strJiing
agugu. His aMai, I believe, bad been bou^t iu Itolv, liia trauwrs iu

2 FROM SBESDEN TO TEPLITZ.

France, his cap in G«rnumy, snd his maDiien had been pidced «p emr*
where. It did not rain, neYerthelesa he carried a bu^ umbrella to shield,
him agiuatt the buu. He was out of breath, pUced himself right befora
the horsefl, and having slightly adjusted his cravat and dusted his coat, he
began a series of pantomimic demonstratioDB, addressed by tuna to the
horses, the postiUon, and the conductor. The horses whom he had grasped
by the bridle were the only part of his audience who seemed to underatuid
him ; for he spoke neither I^tin, French, nor Italian, and not one mortal
word of German. We made him out to be a passenger who bad oveisttud
his time, and the diligence was stopped. He ran immediately into tho
office, where be ptud me remainder of his fare, and then again, in mute
despair, he rushed through the crowd of spectators, to gaze out into the
street The conductors took him by the anu to lead him back to the car-
riage, hut he broke &om them and ran into the street agun, where he
stood gazing to the right and to the left, in erident anxiety. No one could
guess the meaning of all this, and in a little time we should have left him
alone with hit despair, if at the critical moment a valet-de-place, who
came panting into the yard, with a hathoz in his hand, bad not afforded
s solution to the enigma. My Englishman now took his place by my
aide, and related to me that be was setting out with a determination to
lint and inspect all the prortnoes of the Austrian empire. He appeared to
me like one who had gone forth to tjll a field, but had forgotten nia plough
at home. Even in English he was not very talkative. " Who can con-
Terse with a dumb show?" as Portia says; so I found I had abundant time
to meditate fiirther on the theme with which I started — to travel or not to
travel

All the charming vineyards, and all the comfortable connby-hoxes that
cmiled over to us from the other ude of the Elbe ; all the cheerful Saxon
vilifies of the Dresden pluo; all the 60,000 peaceful townsfolk of Dresden,
whom we were leaving behind us — all seemed to be reproaching me for
leaving them; and every time that a labourer by the roadside looked up
at our wandering vehicle, he looked as though he would say to me,
" Friend, stay at home, and earn thy bread like an honest man." Perhaps
when Napoleon retreated over the same ground, after the battle of Culm,
the Saxon villages may have spoken to him in the same strain. He might
■till be reigniog in France, had he known better how to stay at home.

After passing Pima, indeed all the way from Dresden to Teplitx, you
pass over a succession of fields of battle. The War of liberation, the
Seven Years' War, the Thirty Years' War, and the Husute War, have all
contributed to make memorable the mountain passes of Bohemia; at
Culm, at Pima, at Maxen, again and again at Culm, up to that battie of
Culm which the German king Lotbair lost to the Bohemian Sobieslav, in
1126, when Albert the Bear was taken prisoner by the Bohemians, much
in the same way in wtuch Vandaomie was taken 700 years later by the
Cossacks.

At Peterswalde, we come to the Aostrian frontier. This frontier runs
for the most part, along the highest summit of the Erzgebirge; but,
stmuge as it may seem on a firootier of such ancient standing as that
between Saxony and Bohemia, there exists to this day a boundary dispute,
the existence of which, by the by, was only recently discovered, in con-
sequence of the surveys rendered necessary for the magnificent map of
Saxony lately executed The Saxon surveyors caoie to a frontier village,

FKOH DSESDElf TO TErLlTI. , S

irfucb ihej took to belong to ihrnt own countiy, but tlw inliabitaoU «!••

t^arod tb^ were AutrUos, and iron Ute tuaug«ia awav. lu Uw tuam

tbew riUagera are nid eotuUntty to hav« mftllad the visit of

Auftriaa tax-collectori by declaring thcoiMlvM Swusu. Upoa the

ail uiaji the riltagv lia«, in conwquance. beeii iiiaiLftd l>v a wtut« upot,

land will coiitiuu« so til] the laboufe of diplooiatiats have det«nniiiod tmd«

['^hat ro^ VI0S9 tbcae tuountaiuecrs an to hare a shcltvr BMigncd tiwm.

'Hw biKebirg^- muNt iiot be sup))(t*t^ to be a acne* f^ muuntaia p^ra-

lids [daoed aide by m\o. It is rwter a \atge pxtended mound, sloping

IwsY to tli« nofth into Saxonv, but rising ttbmpUv on tlie Bo})emian nic.

i£een from Raxoojr the chain prewiita nothing v<:r}- nlrikinj;, but from the

~ eiman aid* it lookn like a huj^i- wnll girtin;; tlw laud. In tlw same

IT, the Ti«wi fimm the mmniit arc tame, l<y>king towards Saxony, but

cnt when th« ejre wondcra over the Eger and BiU ^allcjs (if Bo-

aia.

** Hfravi^u! whiit Wautiful n)uiitr>' iai thai?" oxiOaiiiivd oae of our lady

pasMnj^n, u no reached tbo lunimit ; ** only look, dt«p prodpioea aiM

mitiintain ratin«ji; a widv plain, with towns aiid villa^ acacteied over it,

while ill tho dbtance again, raouncaiitsneetocloicin thehoriaoB!"— "Tliia

portion of our rM[dMld«lt |4anct," wc rt-plkd, " prMcnta iUttf to the

•stranomcrs of the noon aa n brifflit squBic encloocd by ■ dark rim, and

may be known to those le&nied persouif^ as the territory of Alpfat,

or th« land of P«i. Perhaps they may infonn their students that tho said

tcrritonr is an island, and that tlic dark (tnnie by which it is bounded is •

niafs of liffht absorbing water. Here o^toa njth we call tlie tract Bo-

lia, and if we know how to impart it to ihoo) wo mi^bt inform tho

«f the moon that the dork circlioe mass is caused by light absorhii^

I £>r«Rta, and by yawning ravines. No doubt, in the same way in wbJch we

Itprrwtrials oAeu talk of the man in the moon, do the learned then speak

the vtrgia of the «arth. TI)o square i>i<«« of suifacv which we calL

lieoiia, aa it oorresponds rery nearly with the riipo's p'^Ue^ may pasa

her buckle ; and mien the oouutry, eowred with doiida and mist, aecms

[idarkcr than on those days whMi the sunbeanu are immediately reflected

■troia the siuface, the moonen perhaps say, ' The vircin's buckle loalu doll

to-day :' or, in the coutrarr case, ' The rir^i has brightened up her

buckln this nvorain^.' " Be this aa it may, ujion ooc point tlio Uohcnuani

tnar fully rdy — noinely, tJiat the boundaries of thur country must bo ap-

narent to the reiy st^olboys in the moon, to whom tlic linuts of Saxoav,

[nuMBa. and other merely potitioaUy-bcnmded eouutries, must be utterly

tmlmown.

Tlw piece of Bohpoiia whicli first beeomea visible to the cnraptored ero

' Uie traveller, fnini tlip Iwiglits of Nollendnrf, w tlie valley of Ute lui^

id so lovely ii tb« vi«w that ther» preaenta itMlf, that ctery one wbA see*

for tlic firtt time, however he may have been pri!]i«rv(l livfoivliauil, will

) likely to exclaim with our &ux votnpauiuu, " Heait^ti! wli:it Wautiful

country is thatK"

Along- winding roads the dili^eoee doaoenda giaduaOy into the valler,
aooompaiiied the whole way by a troop of chiMrts, who, in auliangs for
ninbonies and strawberries. Ivvy a little £rai)tHr*tribBl« on the tsareUar,
anil greet him on hb vntrauco lAto a new couatiy with tha piMU aalutft-
tion " Blemed be Jesus Christ." The three e^iee, whoM maga opm
tboM bmrhts fluttered so firtaUy around the French leRioui^ have ecactod

4 FBOH DBESDEH TO TKPLITZ.

three monumenti opon the fidd of battle, and vekther-beatm Tetenni ira
itaidoned then as aectiDels. En^iiah travellen, on piMbg the [dace, at«
wont to note down very oon>dentioiuly how many htmdred wogfat of metal
have gone to the compontion of each monument. Oar Ensliuinian wnta
among hifl memoranda that the Atutrian wai large end solia, the PnianaD
Tery amaJl, and the Ruanan remarkable for its elegaooe.

la TepliU, not only the inos and pablic-hoiuee, but eren private biuld-
ingB have each s distmguishing ngn. Tlius one bouse is called the Lyra^
anoth^ the Auget, and a third the Golden Ring. It is, if not more con-
venient, at all events a much [nvttier and more ptctureeqoe way of marldor
the houses, than omr 6uhion of numbering them, and premla throngn
the greater part of Bohemia, and even in some of the adi<naing oountriea.
To become well acquainted with Teplitz, oue should endeavour to wander
about the place with one of the regular annual visiters. There are oertain
sufferers from the gout who arrive there at fixed seasons, and may be looked
for 03 confidently as a stork at her last year's nest, or as certain human
fixtures way be reckoned on in th«r accustomed coffee-rooma. Such peo-
ple gradually conceive for Teplitc almost as much interest as for their own
nomes, and when they airire, can have no rest till they have satisfied them-
selves that Clary Caatle standa where it did, and that all the public walki
are in due order. They hasten to the bath-rooms to receive the obsequious
salute of each well-remembered attendaat, and enter the glasa magaane*
to admire the new colours and ^shions; for every year is as certun to
bring its new colours into the Bohemian glar^ mauu&ctories, as to usher
in its old ones to the Bohemian meadows.

The invalid who viuts the hatha of Teplits passes the first few days at
an inn ; and during this time, he abandons himself to the delights of re-
viewing the old scenes, till be is able to find a private lodging at the Three
Cossacks, or at the Paradise, or at the Palm-tree, or at the Prince of Ligne.
Then be calls in his physician, and delivers himself over to the prescriptions
of the place, rises early, and drinks most acnipulously his allotted portion
of sulphur water, which glides through his lips to the enchanting accom-
paniment of a band of music ; he is careful not to miss the promenade at
noon in the garden of the Castle of Clary, even though he should not be
able to participate in its pleasures otherwise than in a rolling chair ; and
eats, dimks, sleeps, and reposes, accordingly as his doctor directs him, in
whose hands he b even as a watch — wound up, regulated, and made to go.
From the castle hill the view is most beautiful and comprehensive, ex-
tending over nearly the whole valley to the scources of the tributary streams.
I made a pilg^mage to the summit, in company with some Poles. In a
small village, on our way, we met with some PoUsh Jews, who are &e-
quendy to be seen in Bohemia. They carried in their boxes a variety of
httle ornaments for sale among the peasants ; needles, pins, beads, &c.
They call such an assortment of merchandise SpindlAi, a word half
Polish and half German ; and they told us they had been to Riga, Brody,
Warsaw, and Cracow. They spoke Bohemian, Polish, German, and Rus-
sian, and were a fair sample of the Jew pedlars that generally wander
about the Slavonian countries of Eastern Europe. In Russian Poland,
they told us, they used formerly to gain most money, but the government
did not allow them to go there any longer.

Ijke the whole country round Teplitz, the castle hill is evidently of
Tolcanie origin. It is a tolerably regular cone, rising 1600 feet in height

FROM DBX8DEN TO TEPLITZ.

fiom the ntTToandin^ plain. A ^nUe of twAiittful nnkii «no!rclM tlw
iiiiiJ<Jli.>, and tlio Eummit. an extinct crater, a crownc<l b^ Utc niius of tliv
caxtlc iv)uch was deitiovfil bv firr. From Rniong the oalts may be dii-
eoTwed the most beautiful laniiicniic^, (■homiiiiL;!)' framod by tJie tpreoding
ImiK-lKs of tlic atotclv trcet ; but all that (lie pvn oui do to ct'iirvy lui
tdm of pictum such as these !s idle and ImpcrtinoDt, niid cvni the ]M>uci]
mav timidly shrink from the task. On line da_vi the hill in swanniii^ tilth
riflitcrt, wlio form for tHvimelvi-« a ttmpnrnry »«tllcinent, in (ho corners,
umlcT thr poi^ics, mid on the ternii^cs nf tlu; ruins, luid wntcli tlw (uii aa
b» descriliM hii morvelloua oourso, till bv vanishes bebiiiJ tho Cu'IdImmI
mouBtaint.

The wondroiu efTerb of the lip;ht at enntet, with die endless fjradatioBS
of its cnloiin, and all ihv f^lonet of tlie eviriiiiig *r« had spent toffettier,
had flxciKNl our PoUs to stich a d^fp-ee, that, M wp [lussed ihrnuf^li tlie
girdle of o«k«, tbe jilsce «aa axadv to Hug agaia with the national cniif;^
of Jtacze I'^ha nesginaia (ri-t iit Poland not forsaken), and <irltf va
wybrsfxtrh. The latter in ouu of th« mart ix'aiilirul «f all the patriotic
nclodiea of Polnnd. The words nni nearly a* follows ; —

" ^\1ieii thou ficest a ship hr tlie aea-«hu[«, tost about by the stonn,
and east upon a trejuliemuH tlio<t). Iks by the fury of the naves than by the
lault of the pilftt ; oh, then, deijjii to «h«l a te«r for tliat poor sliip, for it
will nrntind thcc of tlio fate of unha|ipy Polnnd.

"\Vhcn thou beholdest a volcano, a ^ant ammt)' mauntaiti», pouring
forth lav-a, and eniittinf^ imoke, while in ild bosom u bnniiiig an eternal
fire I oh, then, Temtinbcr, that nich is the Io« of lua country that burnt
in the Ihwuhi of tlic Polf."

TIk' >Iill««ehaiipr. thrve tliousaiid feet high, is the loftitrat auniri^ tlie
control mtiiintains, the whole of which may he wen at nw from ibi Himmit.
These central mountains an- nil r\tinrt voleanoe^ ajtd all of A tolerably
ngtilar conical fnnn. Tli>* HDn.* I>n>nks hero in <|uiek luceeitiioii ibrouga
t'ltoochnin* of mfltintAtna ; the Central mouiit«ia« anA the Knt^lurpfe, and
it ii remarkable that just at tliis iioitit. where the water forced its way
ibrou^t) the bHli. the violetu-e of tlie firn should likewise have been so
CTcai. Wiien llnhitinia vMt »li11 n lake, th^te eeiitral iiiounlains must
have boruG «omc memhlancG to the Upaii islandF, a frroup of voleaiiocs
■crowded U^etber, and surroiuKkd hy ttaier. Tlic Milte<ehauc;r ta ulso
ECaDed tke Donnersberp. or Hill of Thunder. May not this name refer to
I kmnote period, when loud detonations were yet licard within the moun-
tain's wumh? Arc not many bills that bear the name of OoDiienberp
extinct r»lrano«s?

It K diAieult to imaj^nc a more delij^btful prospect (ban that from tbe
tumintt of the Millmchnuer. Tlie distant blue line* that L'luiid tJie horizoa,
belong; on one nde to tliv RiesengetHrge, or Giant Mnuntain* ; on tlie other,
to the naarwt hills of the Bohenuan forest, while lowanla the ifoitli th«
rplains of ccntnd Bobeinia lay a|rTead out before you, m> that you may yield
tbe flattering l»-lii-f of having more tliaii hiilf the kingdom at your feet,
and of eofiliiiiplaiing at oim glauee, the £fL'ni> of the joys and sorrows of
wmol million* of human being*. You behold the vr-mels thot dot tho
miliKD of the Kibe, but i>f whose presence the dwclkrrs by tbe Eger. wIimri
ytn comprehend in the *anie ginncc, hare no Kucpieioii. Von see tbe cnr-
riagm diiit roll ft>rtli frniii tlie little town of E^lxMitz, unknown to those
tbat dwell in the valley of tbe BUa. Tho weather vu mmatkably farour-

A FKOM DSE8DE1F TO TEFLRZ.

ible when we reached the (ommit of tbe MHleacJuuer, ^ tir wm el — ■
and tramparent, and the eye roamed nncomtained oror the moat distant
objects. A few clouds indeed were flying; about, and a thunder-ttorm wa*
expending its bay on a distant portion of the landacmpe. Tbe whole Duke-
dom of SchUn uid Muniifiiy, for instance, was overcast for a while with
grey clouds that menaced with thunder and haiL The fowls there wer*
scuddinff with ruffled feathers before tbe storm, the dogs were cree[nng into
their holes, and the men as they barred their doors, and made thor houssM
£ut, seemed to say: — "Heaven be merciful to us? Is the last day come?"
— " Ye fools of Munzifay," thought we on our Olympian thrones, " b*
warned by this of the shortness of earthly sufferings! and then we looked
into the country of TepHtz, and into the circles of Leitmerits and Bunslau,
•miltng in the tranquil light of sunshine, and enjoying themselves in
the cheerfulness of the atmosphere. Seven thousand human beings dwell
there upon every square mile,* and from eveiy square mile seven thousand
voices rue in praise of the beautifiil weather. Without umbrellas they walk
forth, and in uncovered carriages do they take their diversion I Short-sighted
mortals that they are ! Oh that they could but see the cknids that are
gathering behind the Krkonorski hills, as the Bohemians call the Giant
mountains. The mischievous wight Rubecahlf is preparing to blow over
towards them a mass of vapour that will spoil their diverson, by pouring-
down some millions of drops of run.

On the summit of the most elevated peak of the Donnersberg ataodf a
wooden chair under a roof, sud to have been erected for hit own conve-
nience by the late King of Prussia. Here he was wont to abandon him-
self for nouTS together to the enjoyment of the glorious landscape. It is
a throne fit for a kin^, nay, for a. god, and I am surprised that tbe ancient
Kings of Bohemia should not have chosen this spot for their coronation
instead of the Vissehrad, on tlic banks of the Mold&u. Here on the Don-
nersberg, within sight of the whole kingdom, while invested with crown
and sceptre, they might have received ttie homage of all their subjectB at
once. The eye ranges to the eastern mountain frontier, from behind which
rises the Bohemian sun, and follows the glorious orb in his course till hs
unks again behind the western rampart of the kingdom. Here the noble^
while uttering the oath of allegiance, might have l)een impressed with the
vastness of their fatherland, and the littleness of its minute parts. As So-
crates once said to Alcibiades, though he, like the Prince of Schwarxenberg,
had his ninety-nine lordships— even so the King of Bohemia, before re-
ceiving the homage of his magnates, might have taken them each by the
arm, and said to them : — " Look, magnate, what you see before you is our
common fatherland Bohemia, but that little misty point which you see
yonder, marks the extent of dirt with the possession of which Heavea
has blessed you, and of which you are bo immoderately proud. You, Duke
of Friedland, you will find the dukedom hiddenin the valley behind yon hill;
and you, Imperial Prince, by tlie grace of God, of Schlan and Munzifay,

' Wliencver a mile is spoken of in the coarse of the present work, a German mile ia
nnderstood. The German mile is equal to alx>ut 4 3-7th Knglish miles, and cunse-
qucntly n German aquorc mile is equal to rather morethan 21 English square miles,
or U) about 13,680 acres.

f Rubezalil ia the name of a golilin supposed to inhabit the Bicscngebirgc The
legendary Icoe of Qermany ia full ot tales, in which Ktibezahl plays a part.

m matt wait % little bdW we can find nut ^nr principality', (ara punng
idoui vooBvtiis h Tor a moment. Aa Co you, combative gi>nU«m«ti of tfaa
Benoawtfaali there is rotr \kxo», a buiuI dear strnik bcyood llic clnnd ;
cut the streak up into little pioces, and each pictr will be the territory of
one of you, ut* onljF tvo of the pi«cM thatbMong to tlie hi^h wise couo-
(dim«n of B<>min ntid Rnkonitz. Be adviaed, g«ntlcm«ii> Mid live msoc-
ahly together, like e^od oeig'hbonn, instead of mtunp racli otlicr't tnraatc
ior B fragnuDt of tho straak. And tioir, honourable gvntlrmen ami coun^
eilkn^ Iomc roimd upon the n-link. l-oolc at th« spires of Raubnits, of
Lobositx, of Trebnite, of Umian, nnd of Anscha i ami (here on thoce e£
Bilio, Brux, nnd Dtix ; c«« how coiiW tlie gmolte ruHji up from anonr
yoodar ootlage^ or from antong tbooe, or thM«, or tho«e. Siw liuw Ids
nwtlca in tytrj comer, and bow tb« mountains ^rdle the whole pictan^
nod liow the nvere run sparklinfT through the bndncape. All tliis is our
great aiMl beantifu] fnthorland. The whole in great, the fragments trivial
Lm us ihftn stAud raitlifully aiid Gnidy for tin wholv, and riovr, gctitlenien^
oomo and set me aty crown upon upon my bend."

Should ika KiDg'of Bohptnin then have bad thff wit to select for the
nomant of fata ocroostioii, the period of a rainbow such as we hod tha
pkanre of grwtiv, tbe spleDdour of the sol<-iiinilr would be complete. A
gmn of cloud*, Ihni smiTWtl to havr dclJiched it»<?lf fmni the main army
whin had bven mnviiig orer the countrr th^ whole day. and thxt now
poured down its abundanee doee before the summit of the niouutain,
•Abidad oathe glorioat speclade. The golden pearls were dr<:i{>])iiig down
llmKt within reach of ua, and oa the sun had lunioat set, the rainbow waa
•toetdied ovt above our heada. Gnidimlly, however, we became mora
nearly acquainted with the damp materiajs whvnwf the bow waa oon-
ttmeted, and OKwatoDed by the liquid seven -col oure<l genu, w« were glad
to find a shelter among the mouy Inita of the I>onneriberg. that finin about
as nmous an hotel nil a trari-llcr nii<^tit wish to sec A uumbcrt^f small, low
hots, built of stone and dniperied with moss, form a close circle aiDitnd a
amall open rpore. In the centre is a kind of orchestra for BuhemitiQ
noaeaUM, who plav ercrr day duiini; Uic Tvpliti kwou. Some of thc»e
HMW huts are rc^»hrncnt rooms, others are fitted up at skt-piitg apart-
aeittB, and in one there is even a musenm to ilhitlmic the iiatiinil curi-
ositinof the tnounbun. Encb door is decorated with gome uvrtrical inscrip-
tion, from the pen of the pnutiral Iwwl, whot»e daughter prespnU to eocfa
giiest on his departure, a neat litflc iioitg%y composed of llouers of the
mountain.

It bad rained heavily while we wen? ^heJtt^rGd in the mossy caUneta oa
tfw mountain, and when we issued forth on our downward jnuruey, our
, girid« told ua the peasants near Tm>hlilz would l*o cerluin to 6tid great
qasntitiea of garnets j not that the garnets came down from heaven in the
lain, hot baeanaa, aftern rain, they were more easily detw-ted when nimed
Dp by the plough. Trreblitit ia a village at the foot of the ('entrat Moun-
tains, where ganieCs are not merely found thus by itccident, but are lik»-
wiee earefully dug for, *■ TTie com, however, wUl have suflVnil from the
njn," addnd ray guide. — *■ Why an?" — ** Because h. fell thn>ui*h a rain-
Imw. The run ^t falls through a ninhow nlwaya brMds a mildew, anil
if it falls on a newly sown fii-ld, it burm the com away." — *' Why this ia
tdownri^ wtthcheraA," said I. — " Ay, ay," resumed our guale, " we have
LirildbM and davib enough here, On yonder hUlt wlwrtyoo iMtfaa naatf

S ntOM DBE8DBH TO TEPUTZ.

tliere'i a care called the Devil'i Cave, that is full of dwm.* I bid to
banslate this to my French companion, who philoKrohicallj exclaimed,

ti Ti t . ..t r_ ..I j__ _>' . J c^ n. -t^.j f^ "

" Partout on parte pltudes demons que desanget. En France t^eitlat

those" And to say truth, it is atnuige, that throngfaoat Chriftian Eoropei
■o many beautiful and picturesque objects should be pointed out to oi ai
DerU's Caves and Devil a Bridges. Deril'i Rocks and Devil's Leaps. Why
does not fancy sometimes attribute the worlEmansbip to angms? Tm
Greeks would at least have talked to us of Bacchus' Cavea and Diana'*
Judges ; and bow much more pleasing and cheerful are the imara called
forth by such names, than by constant allusions to a dirty, ugly, black,
lanky-tailed devil! And then, how abominable a snperstitton must that
be, which amiDunces woe to the land over which the lovely Iris has swept
with her many-coloured train ! From what perverse imagination can such
a notion have sprung ? It ts that there is something peculiarly gloomy in
our northern blood ? Does not the Bible itself teadi us to had the rain-
bow as a heavenly messenger of peace ?

Amid such discourse, my Frenchman and I had lost nght of our party,
and suddenly found ourselves alone. He became all at once a&ud he
should have to pass the night on the mountun, and commenced a series of
lamentations on the shortness of German beds, and the scanty dimensiona
of German quilts ; on the bod teeth of the German ladies, and on the inca-
pacity of the Germans to prepare so simple an article of food as a lait am
povlet, which insipid decoction, it seems, is to be had nowhere save in the
" Capital of Civilisation." In proportion as the uight grew darker, he
became more and more eloquent on German superstitions, and on the absurd
tales of ghosts and goblins, in which the people believed so firmly. I
consoled my companion, however, by assuring him I would lead him the
right way ; nor did we miss it, but arrived safely at the little village where
we had left our carriage prior to our ascent, and where we now found the
rest of our party awaiting our arrival.

The following morning was again bright and cheerful, and we omitted
not to aviul ourselves of it for another excursion to the environs of Tepliti.
In addition to that of an esteemed friend, I had the company of two Bo-
hemians from Pr^ue, who told us much of the national efforts now making
in Bohemia, of the learned socie^es at Prague, and of the patriotic balls
that had been given there during the preceding winter, when the ball
rooms were each time decorated with wnite and red, the national colours
of Bohemia. No German, nothing but Bohemian was allowed to be
spoken at these balls, and the guests were saluted, on their entrance, fay the
stewards in tlie Bohemioa dialect, which, not many years ago, was uni-
versnlly looked upon as a mere peasant's patois. The public announce-
ment of the bolls was to have been also made in Bohemian ; but to this the
police refused their consent, permitting, however, by a way of compromise,
that the balls should be announced at once in both languages ; a plan
very generally adopted for other aQuouncements, besides those of patriotic
balls.

Our first visit was to the convent of Osseg, one of the most ancient in
Bohomia, several portions of the buildiug dating back as far as the year
1 1 96. In the passages and corridors of convents, you may generally meet
vrith a number of pictures, illustrative of the history of the religious order
to which the convent belongs. Sometimes a pedigree of all the convents of
the order, sometimes pictures of miracles performed by former mcmks and

FROM DKEai>BN TO TEPIOTZ. 9

kliboU, And ■MnctimcA portr&its of Uip popi-s tliat luro been menibcra oF t)»
order. Here at Om^g. aoeorUingly, I miidQ the ao^ustnunce of tha six
popes who bad belong^cd to tbe Cutertian order.

AaWBg lh« liuge pnintu)^ iti tb» muiiuter}', Uicrc wen tlirec thnt
particularly iot«n«l«l us. On« reprR«.-nt«d a Iramed Frendininn, uf the
iwmo of AlanuB, sitting lu a iliep))«rd ittnmig hn slwep, in a siilitary part
of tho wood. Tlitt wuithv Piiriaiou, tl>e quintcMcace of all leiuiiine and
■cionce, had dticovered tJ»t it wu onlv in i)ie simjilent occupations that »
man eiijo^Ml ml happinesi, nud iiii]>rf«i«tl with Ltiin Ix-livf, ht lind laid
aside hi* doctor's cap and gowa, to take up th« cronL- of n pUilosopKical
kcc|>cr of aheop. The second represented too Abbnt Him of ^Vnututana,
wniiiienitK away into thn fnn-«t, to reflect ujmn vrKat ap|)e»recl lo him an
uiiintcUigible r««M in tlio Bil>i9, that " iN>fiire tbe Lard ycar^ paiu away
tike iiiuuivuts, and oetiturie^ like thoug'hta." Cominp iato tbi: Vfooi, a bira
rites, otid so charnu the alibut with it* song-, that ne follows deeper and
dc-Piwr into the reecMU of the fixrejtt. When the bird ceases, the abbatj
reg7<eltiu^ the ihortoeta of tin luclody, tunis ogaiu lioiiieward, but is Mir-
pnsed In fiiiil his convent in ruins, and a iicir one erected by ita side. Tlie
mniiku, however, who tlwoll there, are atl stfaiij^ers; and, on inquiry, he
leanu chat be i» now in the year I3GT, wlivt^as it was in IIGT that he
statted on his walk, so thnt he has hn-ti lUtc-iiiug ti> u bird for 200 years.
Satisfied now of the truth of ho!v writ, li"* pravs God to take liim up into
UearoH. On a tlunl picture wiva another tistertinn of the name of
Uniiiel, who studied and rend m iudufuli^bly in his solitude, that the
lUflies of hiii Imly zeal istrunl forth at lug lingws* ends, so that he could
Itold then), at niplit, hke so many tittle tallow candlea before his book.
This alh-jcory is a beautiful mie ; for do doubt there is witliiD the human
\trvaat a scit'- illuminating |iawer, that enables tliv powcaor to rau) tho
inyiU'ries of God witliout the iiiil of a teacher ; but in tlie way tl»
juiiiKer has nlne<-d hit futrjcct before uj, it loaea all dij^itv, and looks
rather aa U' tne artist had designed to turn tlie matter into ridicule.

In the picture -^fuU try, in the upper rooms of the convent, we were
muclt intervited by two |tai-trnitii of Luther and Melancthoii. They uo
painted on wood, nud marked ivith tho initial of Aibrecht Oliier. Luther
gave them to his sister, a nun in a Luiatiau ainvent, wlio remained ti'ue
to Rome to her end. 'Die hujo-tian nunnery wiu, and still in, a d«|wii>
dency of Ot»eg, and thus it was tlint the picliurs canic hither.

In the Witutiful park of the CiswttJaii.') «« enjoyed mapnillcent views of
the Bila valley, and, on (join;; to the caqi [Kinds in tlie ^-den, a few
crumbs of bread brought huixlredt i^f lusty carp to tlie surface in a minute.
The miiok who sliowed us over the ulacr, tohJ us these were only the small
resenroint, to furnish the daily supply; tlie Urge tishpoiids, he said, were
farther awav. Hv told u* also, tnat the convent possessed twenty-four
rillageat betides a separoco estate of six villap^ for the abbot's private um.
As MOO as we pass tlip Enjfebirgv we find things ofwliieli tlie name ouly
is known farther north. With us th«*e wealtliy almscirinj eouvaota an
mere tltiags of romance, but licre in Bobomia you see them and fml theta.
The pteteut abbot of Ossog, Mr. Saleoui KrDger, is spoken of as a highly
diatin^ished and amiable man. Wo wcra sorry not to be able to iubIm
any nearer aoqnaintauce with him, tbaa was afforded us by his portnil,
painted by Professor VogeL

The nmreat of Oas^ lies Inunediately at the foot of the Engvbirgst

10 racat dbesden to txplttz.

wlumee jm drive down into the dain to Uis Cwtle of Wddstan, wai Am
■nuU dependant town of Dnz. The artutical treasom of tfaia eartle m
of the highest interest, and may be enjoyed with the graator aatialulMa,
aa they are not arranged with any view to ryrtera or completences lOw the
odlectioQa of a German onivenity. The pwntinga decorate the cottomaiy
Btting-roonu of the owner of the cs«tle, and sonu and ottomana aeem to
Tw1i<iit<' the Insure and comfort with which the jnctonal representatioDS
are daily enjoyed. The museum of natural history is chiefly iUustratxTS
cf the natural pecoliaritiei of Bohemia. The mile d'armea u connected
with the castle, and the libraiy adjoins the ownn-'s cabinet A beantifbl
petore in most of our public collections has to me an abandoned and o^
phanlike look, while the statues and antiques are crowded together withont
Bannony or connexion. In a prirate mansion, on the contrary, every thin^
seems to hare found its own place, and to harmonise with the boiUing,
with the men that dwell there, and with the scenes by which they are sor-
roimded.

It is to the portraits of the celebrated Duke of Friedland, by Van Dyk,
that our attention is naturally fint directed, and should even the host of
Metschen, and Dows, and Rubenses, by which they are surrounded, be
confounded in the traveller's mind with the Netschers, Dows, and Rubenses,
which he has had elsewhere to pass in review, yet never, I am satisfied, wiD
the features of Wallenstein be effaced from his recollcetion->-featurefl
which he will nowhere be able to look upon as here. There are two
portraita here of the duke. In the one he is painted as a young man;
and in the other, as a gray-beaded warrior. The comparison between the
two pictures is highly interesting. There the youth stands before yon,
with nis light curly hair, of which a lock falls coquettisbly upon the wre-
he o d ) while a small neat moustache u carefully turned up at the end, with
an evident view to effect. The face is a lengthened oval ; the nose is
handsomely formed, and the eyes, beautifidly expressive, are, if I remem-
ber righdv, blue. An azure cloudless sky forms the hack ground. The
same nob'e features, but hardened and stem, mark the second portrmt.
The smooth skin is furrowed by innumerable lines that seem to bear testi-
mony to violent passions and chequered fortunes. The hair of the head
has growu thin, while the moustache, having lost its graceful curl, is
changed into a wilderness of bristles, many of them standing stiffly out
like those with which Retzsch has often known how to give such expres-
Bve effect to his outlines. The old weather-beaten countenance looks
angrily and imperiously down upon us, like the wrinkled bark of a sturdy
old oaik. The sword is half drawn, as about to give the signal for battle.
Gloomy scattered clouds are sweeping over the Imck ground remnants of a
recent storm, or tokens of fresh levies that are to expend their electricity
in new batUes. The azure sky of peace that smiled upon the youth never
returned for the duke, aa it has often done for the ag^ and retiring war-
rior when his battles are over ; it was among the gloomy agitations of his
career that Wallenstein fell. A portion of his skull is preserved at the
Castle of Dux, and has been duly examined by phrenologuts. The pro-
tuberances discovered there have been carefiilly numbeivd and ticketed.
Among them maybe seen No. 6, Firmness; No. 7, Cunning; No. 18,
Boldness; No. 19, Reflection; No. 20, Vanity; No. 21, Pride and Love
of Glory. ^ The partizan with which he was stabbed is hkewise shown, and
his embnudered collar, stained with the blood that flowed from the deadly

raOU TEPUTE TO PEAGtrX.

voani Alio a letter vritteo hy hit own hand, eonniftndinj^ tho exccutioa
of xome dtixens who hkd eema against the empcxor.

Tti* MctuTQ of hia fint wife h*ag% hy the iide of that of tlie yoDtliTul
duk«- Th« cspt«Mion of her face is beautiful. So much an, lUu the
beholder finds it difficult to tcnr hinudf froai tli« psiiitiitj^. It U ijutto a
type of Bohemian beauty, and as stioh ougtit to be studied and got by
bMft bj fivcrj ethnold)2^t. /Vj be ndnmees futlier int« the oountrv. he
will emiitaiitly meet with suniUr brgv daHc eyM, a amilu onU IteaJ*
bUck hair, and melancboljr cut of countenance

AmoBg the &nitly portraits, our i;^<]o cnllM) upon va to noticv some
MVDM in tlte Spauiuli War of Sfdumt, m h« very innocently characteti»«d
the War of SuoccAaon. A reniarkalflv pretty pti-ture ntLi pointed out by
liim as that of tho Prince*! of Si'tiieiltiiig, wlin, he Kiid, had "lotl her-
self very mueh" «nce it watpoirited, in savinc wirich, he simply mennt to
iafnmi us, in hb Bohemian -uermati, that Time had not hilcd to leave hia
tracw upon thn lady'n niiintctuuice. An we were taking Icare, wa w«(*
advited m jir«l; another opnortunity of payin;^ our reopecU to the pntftent
owner of tlio castle, our guide snurin^ os that the Count was Tory " for-
ward" to strangent.

FROM TEPLITZ TQ PRAOUB.

On leaving Teiilitz yoa have to pan the Miltelj^bir)^ or Ccatnl
Monataiai, The boHcmian Innl take* three minute« to dn this, a Bohenuaa
eMehman tJinw hmirs. From th(«o hills yon deswnd iitto the monhy
country, in which ihu Elbe and Ejcrer unite tlwir vratcn. Even ll tM
waters mingle here, so also do the elements of population ; for there are
here three famoui Bohemian tiiwui lying cJoae toother : Lobositx, I^it-
menu, and Thereneni tadt. T1)e fint, Uirough which the traveller pasact,
ii a eomfortlcM dty of Jewa : the second, seen only at a diatance. has
the appearance nf a thriving mtuiufacturiog place ; the third, eiamtnej
at givaler leisure, is the mott important fortress of Bohemia, and the
utoat breakfaatiiig' station for tbiwe who Ktart from Teplitx iit an enrlv hour.

The buililing' of Theresietistadt was completed, not by Afaria Ttierota,
but hy Joseph, in honour of her mentorv- It is a strong fortr«ffl, Bur-
rounded bj; uiunheii, uud still u virgin, though more tluiu »isly v^nrti old.
She wad c»iirt<^ hy Naitolron in IHIO, and his bridal envoy Vniulsniiite
waa, it muM. bo sdniitted, received within the coy lady's walls. It wnq not,
liowwar aa a oonqueror, but simply as a priioner of wsr. The ancimt
nuiden's wardrobe mutt have cost a pretty penny in Iter time, aiwl her
maiuteoance must Mill be expeiuive, ior every thing about htr is nf tho
SBiartcft and tho l>«st ; and »e indeed it onght to be. for at her girdle ah»
onriaa tho key of the wliule of nonhum BoTmnia, and the suitor that coa-
quera her scniplea, may liave all her land along with her. Her cnllectioa
of pearls ifl of ineaUtnable value. We saw them in hnge piles in the pnbKe
•quatv^ wborv tbcy looked for all tho worU like so many bomb* and cu-
nonbaUa.

Amoug the prisoners or cfwivicli* »t TherMien«ta«It, 1 reinarked the eoo«
ndei^blc care that hud been token to lighten the weight of their fetters.
The thick iron ringa vfaicli liang looie on the leg, were supported by ft
inui bond of leauer ikrappad rsood the tlii^ ao that ibe iron did not

IS rSOH TEPLITZ TO PBAOUE.

raeaa with ita full weigfat npon the flesh. The amagcment U one Uut
deserves to be imitate^ wbeneTer it is felt that a criminal ia laden with
ehuns for security's sake, and not merely for the infliction of in co wa n t
torture. There are cases enou^ still in Europe, where no one inqmrea
whether the fetters, resting on the ancles, eat their way into the fleeh
or not.

The valley of the Eger is the most beautiful part of Bohemia, and abo
the best part known to the rest of Europe. Tlie population is chiefly
German, and our proverb respecting Bohemian villages tias no application
here, where there are manv villages which no one must be ignorant of if
be would pass for a travelled man. These are villages of the circles of
Leitmeritz, Saati, and Elnbogen, bordering on Saxony, and only project-
ing at their southern extremities into the country* of the genuine Etohe-
mians of Stockbohmen. The whole of Bohemia is divided into sixteen
drcles, of which three border on Saxony, three on Silesia, three on Bavaria,
and three on Moravia. Three are central, and border on nobody, and
one, the drcle of Budweis, borders on Austria. It u only the threis cen-
tral circles, the core of the kingdom, that are StochbokmUck, or thoroughly
Bohemian, in all the other circles a large portion of the population u
German. The most populous are the three that border on Silesia- In that
of Koenigingrfitx, there are as many as 6900 inhabitants to the (German)
square mile. The least populous is that of Budweis, where there are only
2800 inhabitants to the square mile. The circles in the valley of the
Eger have from 4000 to 5000.

The different parts of Bohemia differ quite as much in the quality as in
the quantity of their population. In the north and nortfa-eas^ the Saxon
and Sileuan circles, uie people are industrious, and the country is full of
manufactories and commercial establishments of every kind. In the south
and Boutb-weet there is more of grazing and tillage. How great the
difference must he, is shown by the difference in the rate of wages. In
the north, in the orcle of Leitmeritz, a common labourer earns from
five to seven grotehen a day ; in the south, in the circle of Tabor, only
from two to four groscken.* These were the current wages when I was
there, and people assured me they might be looked on as a fiur aven^ of
ordinaiy times.

My coachman was a genuine Bohemian. As we were passing though
the gate of Theresienstadt, he told me that we should find no more
Germans between that and Prague. " At Koenigingi-atz, however, you
come to the Germans ag^, and so you do at Budweis and Fiben. AU
round our country the Germans are everywhere peeping over the border."
Hereupon I began to turn it over in my on-n mind, that tins land belong-
ed to the Germanic Confederation, and then I began to speculate upon
what the people themselves might think of the same confederation. I found
it impossible, however, in any language, to make the people understand
what I meant, and I believe that there are few of them that have any no-
tion of what sort of tiling the Germanic Confederation may be, of wliich
they, nevertheless, form a part. Probably not one Bohemian in a hun-
dred has ever heard the confederation spoken of I once saw a Bohemian
most unmoderately angry on reading in a German hook this sentence :
" Prague is one of^the handsomest cities in Germany."

' A grotch is rather more than an English pcun v.

PK03t TEPLrra TO PRAGUE.

EttMdaot ftUeupt ft (IcsciipUon oftbe Bobemiui Yillaga tlirouf^ which
we^iJMd lAsrlMTiDg' TttcTustBafUdt, for tlioaeh we Germans pmf<?&s lo
know BO litclci abutit tltem,* yet wb &ra nil &iniTiiir with the Umentstioni
of thow vba hare uiadv a iteanr 8cquuiiit«nce with lh«n. I will tK>t(
however, repput ili«« melundiol^ ditties about dirt and di»onl«T, for I
kiiow of pluses in Gpniiiiiiy, ay of larjj* diMrirts, wlwnj the ]>upula-
tiot) lire in qait« aa icnich dirt as the llohcmianf do. Hliat attt«ct«d my
atti'Jilion most iii these villa^^ were the chai'Octeristic littl« bootlu thai
we saw erected la every mnrk«t [i1ao«. n'iih lh«ir German Slavwiic watvs
and itiKiiptiont. A boath of this lort ii called a Krantk, itnra tlie Ger-
man word Kram, and in it are usually diiplayod for salo a pile or two of
tuules pears, a plate of bout cherries, and some wheatcii rollj of Tariuiu
Ibmu, amang which the 6andaor ani the rokANuAek seem tn bs mMt
Dopttlar. A few pots of flower*, by way of decoration, arc >cldom want-
ing-, and in the dark background niny uxually ht? teeti the giusrdian spirit
of the pliice, in the sb^ie of « Httle old man Hitting (ileatly, like a coDtem-
plativc philofupher, waiting for customers.

Ponin^ througli a drea^ and badly cidciTated country, in comparison
with the neighbonrhood of L«itmeritx, wc arrived at ^Veltnu, situated on
the Moldau, tlie cluef river of Bahetnis. Melnik, at the mouth of the
IMoldou, we saw only at a diataace. Jlclnik is celebrated for tU wiiit; and its
hops, but thw hitler pint of tU celebrity i$ nroliahly of ihtt carlirr dute,
for md is the Itohdniim word for ho^ and tJiu name of Melnik may bs
tranalated into tbc City ttj Iloft. The Emperor Charlt^s IV. (the Bohe-
Tnian* call him Charles I.,) is wd to hare first planted the vine here, bat
thi« is icarecly credilde, far in that ca<e the Wne must have been nBtiiraliseil
on the Rliiiie and Danube a thouannd yc&n before it was known on the
Elbe. The red wine of Melnik is the brjt of nil the Elbe u-inci, but nil
the winea of tite Elhi>, in quality ns well as iti 4iuanlity. stand to those of
the Khinoand Danube in about the relation of one to ten.

Charles IV, ushered uoC vuly ilaccbiu hut the Muoct also into Bohemia,
for he it wa« who plniiMHl the ancient niiiverwty in Pramie, whore the
renerahlo trve mill llinirislies. "I'ruler him," wy tlie Bohemian his-
toriand, " the Tshekhs UiJ aside their rude manners. They had among
tlirm the most learned scholars and the greatest stateenien, and werCi in s
word, the predniuiiiant nation of £un>pv, to much so, tliat ^) tutve Iwen
boni a Bohcminn wtu evcirwhoro b«la to b* an honour." If this was eo,
timcH hate altered strongly since then. For, be it pieju^co or not, few
peiiple uowadnys will moke it matter of boost, unless jierhnps in Austria,
that they are genuine Bohemians : not only in Fraitee and in Ktif^Und, but
ercn in many ports of Germany, the name is held $}-nonvinous with tliat of
gipsr, and c<rcn now, our peasants wlien they hear the gip>v dialect spoken,
are *-«y apt tn turn away with disgust, and tell you, " tiio crefilures are
talking ilolicmian,"

The lordship of WeUrus belonn lo the Comit of Chotek, a member of
whose family occupies at present iFie highest post in Bohemia. There was
4 Uidg* here formerly, tnit many yea» ago it waa destroyed by a flood,
abce when the ^whI [jcople appear to hare contcuted tbemaelrw with »
fitfiy or " fiying bridge," mad» ntt by a cable fixed to oae of the nnnad

■TheGennanshaTaaasylniti " Diu* Ul m!f to wnMa»itt mil itlt Whwfsrf— Hsr-

Jif (1 know 00 aan iJaoat it tliao 1 do of ilie Ikilieuaan viUages).

14 THE TUSXHSAD.

inles cS dw fbrmer tUtumair one. Thia tnuiation from itaiiding to Aymg
u any thing bat " progre m m," ftod it is reslly a marrel tl>«t tm ao &«-

Snented a road no meafine ihould yet hftve oeaa takaa to npur dw
efect.
It ia DO ■faortening of the nwd to erosf the Moldaa at Weltnu ; bnl^
m the contrary, a great round. It so happens, bowem*, that more thaa
one-fourth of all (the roads to Prague, including that &oin Dreaden, unite
■t the north>eaetem gate, at which there enter more travellers and mer-
dundin than at all the other seven gates taken together. The reaaon i%
that Prague is of easier aooesa at tJiis than at any other pmnt, and tin
consequence has been that the quarter of the town which nas been most
modernised and improved <^ late years, is that whidi lies in the ncinily
of Pormer Thor, or nortb-eastem gate.

Attended, accordingly by all the persons and things that happened to
■tream together at that point, exactly at 7 p.m., on the 23d of July, 1841,
from nortoeni and eastern Bohemia, from Saxony, Prussia, and Scandi-
navia, from Siberia, Poland, Russia, and Ana, did we, precisely at the tima
stated, hold our entry into Prague New Town, which having done, and
having duly placed ourselves under the protection of the Buigomaster of
the Old Town, we ocKiugQed ourselves for that night to wa welconie
repose of bed.

THE TISSEHIUD.

Eveiy part of Prague is s^l verdant and bloombg with the ruins and
monuments of remote countries. The streete, the churches, and the burying
grounds are &11 of eloquent ^peals to the history of the land and the
people. PaUcea and countless steeples are trying to overtop each other in
tb^ zeal to talk to you of times gone by. Even on the walls of thdr
taverns, the townsmen may read the names of the first dukes of Bohemia,
and thus familiarise themselves with their antnent annals. On the outside
of one large house of public eutertuament, near the Vissehrad, on the
place where formerly the dukes were interred, there may yet be seen six
grotesque fresco pointings of the first six Bohemian dukes, with their names
very legibly inscribed : — Przemblus, — Neiamislus, — Mnata, — Vogen, —
Vratislav, — Venzislaus. The features of these redoubtable potentates hare
even been repturcd and beautified within these last few years. Where, I
would ask, is there now, a place in all Germany, in which the ancient bistoiy
of the land is made palpable to hand and eye as here ? Whore is there a
town where so much has been done for German, as here for Tsbekhian
history ? Where the Germans do so much for their mighty emperors, as
is here done for petty dukea ?

Bohemia is a piece of land wonderfully separated by nature from the
rest of the world. The magic circle which surrounds it, consists of stu-
pendous hieroglyphics, traced by the bands of the primeval Titans, and
from this mighty wreatli depart a multitude of concentrating rays that join
together in a vast central knot. These are the streams that fiow from the
«ast, the west, and the south, the life -sustaining arteries of the land. In the
middle of ti^ magic circle rise the hills of Prague, where every great
event by which the country has been agitated has set its mark, cither in
the shape of new edifices and enduring monuments, or of gloomy ruins
and wide spread desolation. The centm point of a country sharply cut

•niE VISHKIIIU.D. ■™~' "^''™ 15

«ff Iroin the rest of tlw warld, and wtines constanUy to new mmlUicalMns
of tts poIidcsJ life, Tragiie h&s bocome full of niiiu u>d paliicu, that nill
secure Co lh» city ao euduriog interact for oentnrie* to oamo ; tad vhil»
tliv IiiU» an ■iiinng' nrcetly to ui tlic bwUtioiu of put ■RUt lei it not be
■uppowd tliat tuc wluspen of fatuity are not UJccwise mnrmiiring royft«
tanowly around them.

The ItiU Snt Apokcn of ia Bohcinian dinundw, and u|jon which rc-
oided the fint i^iikta of Bohemia, is the VmAni, wlieiicv th« Prnjihrtcis
Libiun uuuMiBeed to Paifpu ber fiitnra fcloiy, dflolating tliat the city wuuld
«Q« iaj beooroe a tun auoitt' cities. 'I1i« oid cfaronimn beac« cull their
city iilten the daughter of LJt>UK>a, cichiiniiiiE' in thrir nv{>tarr : ttr
maffMa Irmr/ts, Irhtrb* IfriMffmi, o orhis caput, tl decut Bohtmiaf.t
I'utchrtu'. Jilin jniMrior LibtoMae! Sueh vera the wordd with which the
vsmtrablfl Uaiiinwnchtaidt apoHtrapUiivd tlic glonmit city ou Iwr tl»u-
Mindlfa annivenaiy, in I T2 3, in Iiin Pmdromua Giorian P rage n at^ the oty
of wliich CharlM i V. wiu no ruiimoinvd, that be dedared b«r kormm
detieiarum, in gtia reget deticutrentur.

TIk ViMehrad is a hill, abrupt ou tnry nid*. biit flat on tba aiiwii,
prefieotinj; a plateau of soma extwit, cunv-t.'&ipnt to buitd on, and aaajr <■
oefe ncc . I'lit I iradahiu ui indeed mOiT« elevated, an<l hM a more pietnr-
oaqiu) BituBtiDD, but ia couunooded by other lulla near ic, and o{&rod, en
voKDj aeoounts, fewer iaducemenU to the early mien than the Vissehnd,
40 ebooM it aa tb^ place of rc«denec. The ttcepert tide of th«VisBehtad
is towaidi the river Moldnii, wluch Eccms to be comprv-Mcd between the
hill and Uie opposite meadows, niahing over its bed with gT««tfr rapiditv
here tiiau in any oUier purt of iu oour». Here, proboblv. were tbo Ta|Ba
oa- fjuratfi, to which tlie city ia Mip{H>»cd to have bv«n iud«))ted for ita ttaoM.
If we iiuiy bi-liete what tlie hutorians and chroniclerv of Bobemia relate to
iM of tliu fimner eonditiuu of the Vissehrad, ibe pomp anil mn^oificenee
that onoo dwelt there offer a 9tt*ag0 contnat to the ditrt and ntt>bwk tliaC
hare uairped their place This, once the centre of a bustUng city, is dow
the most remote point of the town ; and the nioct wietehed quarter! ate
^miipcd aboot the hiunbled Viiwchrad, wboM duaf gloriea now ut« only m
tlio iaiaginatioii of the Boheiniaii luitiqooryi

On tliB iinrtbem nde iif \3m Arnipoua— for nicb the Viaehnd maymll
be cnllod — flnws the little liriMk Botitr, now a dirty piMe of water, but ne-
moRible ill the ettof^i of ancient bards, and witnese to nttmbcHew bold
deeclii and hard-fuug)it liattliM. On the extreme pmnt of the little penin-
sula fnrnK^l by the Botitz uiul Molibu, ivlkficu the linert new way Iw ob-
tained of Pragne, of the T&Ilcy of tb« Moldau, nad of its encloBng- the hill^
there we may mpposc ibc bard to have stood, u he ooaipoacd tlic Girourtte
old naUoiutl ditty, /Cde domof muff, of which the foUowiog is ueeriy a literal
InuulatioD:

When ii m; hoonf wherre U mr bonw?
fl iroa me aamiK Ok mcidnwi ctTeping,
Bnoka Aon reck to nxli nrr 1mi>uic,
KvoTwlMn UoMD tptinit uvi fiuntrs,
VUtin Ihia parafN of oaini
IbcfC, 'ti< tbere, tho Imniteoui landl
Bohemia, my flith«rUnd I

Wliere ti my bauer iriu're '« mv hoatt
Know'M UwQ the ooantry lorad of Uo^

16 THE VI3SEBRAD.

Wliere noble muIi in wcn-»h«pM fiirma ruiJe P
Wlic-n; tln?l'r«K!ftiicrcniJ'lu-!'ilii'fat(uiui'B jfriJeF
Tlitri! wilt ititiu find ot'Tilifkhs Ihf honour d rjuSi
Anivug th« Tthckha be, ay, my direlUng ptace. ,

For my own part I wo* twice oo ihe Acropolig of Prapw. Once with
aa honoured friotw), n pmfoMor at thn univenity, whose aQtiquarian Ure
enabled him to [raint out to mc cvcr^- fragment of tlic ruiiio, to which »ay

hutorical aiisoeiatioiu attorheil. The se(^ond time I vtas tlicrc iu the com- .

iMuiv of a couplo of hiiinl]|i> ori);^nala, who, oquallj learned tii their "'^X^^^H
£)und menus, oy Ok min^lvd ^mpltcity aiiD serricc of tlw
churiji on ^e Visaehrad, aod his daughter, herself part tho inoHdidn of
liJiD. I had iii»(Ie a liiud of oi^iiiftintiuice with thia pair of living curioa-
tin, on tlie occaMUii of my first mit, when T [iroiiii»ed them if they would
•top at horn* tho following Sunday I would vii.it th^m sgtin. Now,
though I niuet own that I oerived myself quit« M much [JcMvuv from th«
eociety of my esteemcil and learned fnenu, yet I am inclined to bvlicv*
that my nuuler may prefer Kix-iii^ mv in tlic compatiy of old Joseph an^
his daughter, and, to iin.y tlio truth, th«y w-er« certainly tlic most original'
gudos pj whom it baa rvrr been my fate to ho Attended.

Joaeph Tihak was originally puUrsant, i. e. Wil -singer, to the cliuroh
on the Viwohrnd. In courM- of timn hp obtain&d [n-ctVrment to jtonie more
cudtcd oibcc on tJae ecclcaiMtical eatablishmcnC. nnd Eincc tbcn, toraewhot
about tlie cloH of tho lut century', he hat been invested, as a mark of hia
proenl dignity, nitb a red coat, now fadn) and aJmoal as gt*y u hia onee
auburii Iix-k.<. His daut!:htcr, tlacc her mother's death, hai soceeeded to
the a|i|>niutinent of livundreis to the eight venerable canons of the diu
in addition to which elic wathes, clarehMt, and irons the lace and lineo of
altar, and of aj) the " blMncil Kunu" that dwell mthin the holy edifice.
fittbcT and dnuglitcr live Ingvthcr in a little house perched upon the summit
of the hill, wherv tliey have &mp1e elbow room, dwelline in complet*
Bolitudo on a sgiot which, i500 years ago, was aiiioiated by the bustle of a
popubus city. Ucre, aiiiid tL-lica uf tbi; uldi-u time. Ihe daughter was
DOTn and has grovm old; while ilu- father has for more than half a cenbiry
been ih* attendant eicorone of all the great and httle people, from
omfieTors and kings downward, who in tbo meantime lui«e nonouted the
Visacbrud with their n-titf. The rtiiiia of the iilacv are the only obwcti
with which the wonliy pur have ever occupied llienitwlvc^ and with UMW
they have so completely idontilied tliemselTes, that they have l>eoom« in
their own persons almost as i»t«rc6(iog to a stranger, oa the acenea auioiig
wliich they dwell. Tlie ** Bohemian Chronicle" of Hi^ck, Hammar-
■rhiuidt's " Glory of Pmguo," and a few otlicr bookt of tlw aame ehat«et«r,
they may almott be said to hare learned by heart. In addition to the
leamtng thus acquired, they have caught up and treasured in th«r nttnds
every little tntdition or anecdote al>uni the \'U<nhnut that they ha|^>cn to
hare heard from the priettji of the church, or fn>m tljc strangerc that viiil
ttf and all tlua they have embellished and connocted here and there by the
liel)nag band of tlwir own imagination. In abort, they have ptmned the
courae usually foUovad bw our own profcuor* of lustory, nnd bavi> retailed
their medley talaa to all toe niuneraus listeners they have hail luvuud U»«iu

TH« TtSSEHKAD. ^^^^^~ 17

dunng' tlie lasfc hslf-oentiiry. Thetr lecture* hare not indeed 1>e«ii bikcii
diwii iu shorthand, f»l liara tli«it> InstTMctioiu ftsuadAd kr aud wid^', mid
nvtoDljr t)i« cttiMru frf Prw>«i tint *iinple« utd geolJes from lliv lartlicst
huids liavo airried away witii them the tales and legends of old Tstuk, and
would b« ready on ocouion to ilake th^r own hoiiDur on the old sextoo'i
rendty.

" Gracaoiu m*, jvm houotir. and then you are indeed I" rrcUimed
jM«pli'a daughter, aa I presented myself at their little dwellbifr' on the pro-
Sunday. The day Iu.(>peiii*(l to be thefeitiiiil of Sr. Anne, and nil

„ w wai making merry in the tai-vm*, at the public dancing-bniir'ts

and on the ivlarids of the Moldaii. The Vissehrad, as voji iti ivniit, lav
solitary and forgotten. lJ|Hin its naked and desolate btoic, Kiiortixl a moist
brtczo, and 9Cfttt«rcd clouds were strcc-pinff over it, altMidc^ by sundry-
flights of rovenis who were wriiiTinf^ iIm^t flti;ht towai^ th« city; for
eren ihcy hflfe abaDdoned the old hill, and fixed their quarters iu i<^i
elevated r«giotis.

" And there you are irulei^t air! Father Uid I were just sitCb^ to-
lisr, and this b^ng St. Anne'« ibiy, we werv thinking nf my mother,
how name was also Anne. I n-u wecpinr 8 tear or two, and looking
tout of tlie window. There &ther' » eye caunit the stveplc vf St. Jaoob't^
ImkI Mid, ' Thou slialt go down lo St. Jacobs to*morrow, and hare a mws
[read for MittliiT, Atine." ' Ay,' said I, and tliwi I thought to myself
> * MoUier b de&d; father and she lived 45 yean up here together ; Father,
I is old now. FriiMiili we have none in the world. If he diea tJtun'lt
■lone.' 8(1, thimght T. Ill hara a prayer read for ratlu-r loo, ami III
i Bray God to spare hjtn to roe ftw many yf aw. Kot tme, yoiir honour,
rWdl he weD m? And look, just as 1 was thinking eo, you come and elimb
ligp all this weary way to us. Gtadous ! you moat be tired ; pray sit
iiaivra."

I did so witJi pleasure, for I wo; itructc 1^ the lit^ domestic vtwifo-

sieiitit of the Tenrrablc seiclori. Tlie furniture was all of great antiquity,

and the walls were hung with ma|}s nnd pictures, one of whieh represented

. the Vimehrttd, as it mny U- mpjK'tcd to haTe looked in the days of it»

f ajoiy, iriien it must haie had eomewhat of the same anpmmnci; as tho

, Kremlin at Moeeow. A bible wa; lying on the table, and I expressed my

pleadure at aecing the book then-. *' Ay, ay," said the daughter, " we

art t^ttt Ktorc by the boc4c A •levr oncti offered ui two flnriiis fur it, btit

' ftth«r said he would not give it him. llonr^-. my brother's son, has ehiU

dren, they may use it one d«j, whan we can read it no more. Is it not

^•0, fatliCT?" — " Ay. *v," onawerctl the oUi mail," I wouldn't port with iho

t book." I commended them for their good rwolution, and wv pnicreilrti,

•11 three, to go over the curiositiee of tlie Vissehrul, which I Irai^d to mi^,

not only in its own form, but as luodiiied through the medium oi th« fant-y

of my guides.

" Tnars is but little left of whnt wm one* hare," bt^an the okl man.
** and of that little tln-re in much of wliich we know the meaning no longer.
[Even old HammvrsL-hmidt, iu hit time, could only tell us, that tlus was
wuppotnl to be, and that was miil to be, and wi> arc uctt Ukely to ki>onr
, M aiucli now as was known tlien ; but we will show your honour nothing
I but what is certain. First of all tlu-n we come to the church itaclf^ for-
' aierly ooneeerated to St. Vitus, and afUrwank to St. Peter. The war-

TBS TiaSEmAD.

non that broke d«wn the ivU of die brickworlc had some rrspect for God's
Itouse 1 supfMMi, uid n it hat Temaiu«<l sVuvHof^ iu>ni«Kliat longer."

the trCmUing hands nf tiic old man. u tl)« lu}-« daMcnd n tuM pmq^
-worked annj' fur a few mnnicnta at the craiy pitai^ beCm wo nhliinwl
aonw to tbo intetior of the church. The place )aa been sacrvd to leEgioo
from a varv remote aiitt<|iiity. Boforc tlH> iutnxJuction nf Chrigteodoni,
there ttooa t» tlw mom qrat » tcnmle dodicated tv Si uitoTHl, the God
of Wu- of iIm Stavcnuun. The anuem of lliu heathea divinity wu a
«ock, and thia bird w-a^ liltewiM tlie oboMii ba<d of St. Vituc 'lliu tinii-
larit^ o( taste, u»d pcrlmpi tlw imnlKrity of tlieir naiiiea (Sraottnid and
Sanot VU) inaj have bciKtatcd thv tnuMTcr of the property from tlw
beatlMn to ibe ninb The chunrh vas bailt hy \rvaaia.v, the firat kio^
of Bobomio, aiid km linitbed in 1068, It was afterward* reboalt, having
been destroyed hj the IluuitM, who Bcem to hare desk even more hanlly
hy the BacTM edifice than the devil himself, for hiv Satanic mijestv, in ia»
nf^f, contented himself vith luiocking a hole in the roof, wldcii it waa
lotig foimd im)ioa«ihlc to rrpsir. TIic im^inonible t&le waa tuld ttie in the
following wonb. \jy my comiodrein :

" Unce upf^n a tine a poor man went into tbe fortet. There be met a
•mart, jorial-looIuUK huntMnau ; aj least ao he ffappo»ed, but in b-utli it
VU no fauoUmkii, but tlie devil in dixgniic. Now tbe hunUiiniui spoko
to tbs Knronful iniui, nnd ttaJd, 'Art rioor, old bny'r' — * Ay, mtMraUjr
poor, m, and full of c&rc,' replied tlie otber. — ' IJow many cnildren bart
tl)ri(i?* — 'Six, itnUe sir,' answeisd Aepoeorman. — ' Oire me Car ever that
ehild of thine that thou baat nevor awn. and I'll giva thee thy Gil of
money.' — ' Willingly. «ir,' wa* thn silly fathtT's reply,— * Then come, and
well sign aud seal on the bancain !' — TIk old man did ao^ and received
counllaaa boaf)* of money. When he )^ehoir.e, however, to bit ovnhouMi,
to his aurpriw hn fnun<l thnt he Hiul teveii chililren, for litii wife had in tbo
mcantiBH: brau^lit tbe Bcrenth into the world. Ilcrcupont the Gitbcr
bej>;an. to feel very uncomfortable, and to suapect tliat the devil had
talked him out of hit child- In his anxiety, be ealled hia iievbom turn,
Pi-'er, and dedicated hixa to tlie apo*tle; mayinK^ Peter to take the bcj
under lua protection, and riiietd him agnmst the devil'a arta. Peter, w)k>
afipured to tJie old inaii in n drcjun. promised to do what he was asked,
provided the boy -were brought np to the church ; to, of eoune, the lad
voa ^vcu to God'a Mrviee, that be ntighl lie u pric»t wlurn he f^rrw up.
Peter turned out a guod, pioun, and lenmetl young man. When lie waa
twen^^fbur nan old, sad hnd bepn installed ih a pricA at the church on
the VuMbiao, tbe devil came one day Co [mt in bin clAiin to his iwerencc ;
but the holy apoatle St. Peter ttitiTlvn?it, and dcL-larcd tlie dwd nhioli
the devil produced wnx a forgery. Tltp ilevil and the mint came to faiph
wordi at tbia i wbd« the poor priest, fj-i^httued out of his wita, rau into toe
church, and betook himself to reaititig Uie iiiaM. Now, ax tbey could no
way come to sn understanding, St. Peter, by way of a compromiM, jiro-
poiod ft new barfjain. ' Do yau Hy to Rotne!' tvd be to tliv devil, 'and
briii^ mc one uf tlic twolrc columns el St, Peter's tJiurdi, and if you're
back with it bet'ore my priest him rwid to the end of tite iiawg, he ttliall f ~
youra ; bnt eian mine !' The devil, w'hi> tliovght he should bare plenty i
titnc, accepted tlic pmposnl with pleasure; and in a lew seoouda, Pt'ter
aaw iiim fiyiiig up full ajteed witb one of Uw columna. Tba dnil would

THE TMSBIIRAD.

Ittve wn, th«n'« nn doubt, if St. Pe'let had not (jtueldj g<m« to ro(«tli!m,
sad began to belabour him vttli a bonewliip. Tb« devil, in Kia fright,
d ropped &t bme piiUr. which fell plomp to Um> bottom of the Mediterra-
Bcao Ma. BbTcwI b« Bttl* time in diviug forit, and brincing it up ng«m ;
but be lost <|uite cnoaKlL for when h« arrirnl nt the churoi, tlir pnnt )Lail
just Mil! h» /(a miiMi rst, and so bid iniu« was at an end. St. Peter
laugbp'l bi-nrtily ; and the devil wom bo vrxcd, (hat in his ragr, b« flwnjj
do«« the hie coloinn, wtiich wMit through lh« roof of lh« church, and
Jl npon the floor, whcrr it was broken intn ilim piwvt. Many attemnta
era madv to repMr the hoU in the roof, bnt tliojr covid never make the
Evork boM, lor it alwayi fell (n, and »» at lart tliej' g^are it up ; and thcra
' Ae hole renuDed for man; faimdrEd years, It-avin^ a free wa; for rain and
Wiod. The Emperor Joseph, howexer, inuiifei) n^u^n having tlie roof re-
paired, (o they i!ar\**d the two itty of St. PctM in the centre stone of the
vatilt, and dncc then the trork baa held."

The cmaa-keys still remain, btit I am inclined to think it wm tlie pnp«td

I and not the emperor, who nrdered them (n be [Uaoed tb^rc^ and tlint tliey

dill BO to save apptraraDoca. If Uiey arc now aakcd bow tbe masoni^r

< comes tf> Hold, they have their answer ready, attiibittn^ enty thing tottie

virtue of Pfiter'f koyi.

As loo^ ae the nolo coRtiii(i(-d in the roof, the fragmcnb of the brokea

. colnnu) remained on tbe floor of the church ; hut, atpording tii the old

•ntoK** aecoiint. " the Empemr J(KC]'h said, people s^hould pmy to God

ia ihc church, aod not ^«tp nbont the d«vil and bii wirkcd woilu. Those

were his very wordF," continocd Ihc old man, "for 1 heard them from hia

' nuj(>iity'ti own ntouth. aa I was sbovrin^ liim about the plaoo, nhea be

I Waa her« and loeked elnsely at evny thtii^. And for my own part, I don't

' blow that it wo>tiLil be a •erious aio, if a man «tiotild not hiippcn tu bi'licro

Ae rtoty."

Since Joseph's time, a laro^o pointing representing St. Peter liorae-
vliippin^ the Prince of Darkness, and tlic Meditvrruneaii r"))in(r >t« uaTif
beneath them, has, 1 am tony to aj, found iu way Iiork into th? ehurrh.
Tbe broken eolomn, in threv fraroienta, lies mi the ^rss* in front of ibe
thtucfa. " The stone," said my old ^d«'s d«ugbt«r, " is pot together out
of sevrn sorts of stones. One is very prv<ioia, ooe very hoidi and one
stinks detestably. When bis msjestj-, Uw Umsed Emperor Fnuici*, waa
ben:, and my ^ther told him the story, his majesty Fmncis svd, 'The
Btnnc ttinkf, I ■upimse th« deril boa left iinmethmg Hlieking to h.' Down
below, wu may eee the stone ia aomvwhat worn away, for that's where
fctber k'norki ojf l^ts for strangers to carry away a« a remembnuwe. Tb«
■oUtrn all!) grind bits of the stone into powder, and bave CiMmd it f^ood
lor all sorts of eomnkiintt.'*

In addition to tno paintod and bekihourMl devil, I found a little minia-
tn« flf his SataniR mAjesty, neatly cut in wnod, and led by a chain, whidi
Has h»ld by a St Ppoiopins, tikewW carred in wood. Two celebrated
n«n of this name R^ire in tbe history of Bohemia; nn* a discinguished
leader of the Iluwites. the other the first herald of Christianity in iho
conntiy. The biUiTof thme was the snint. and wherever he is represented
in n Bohemian ebureh, ho never fiiils to have a ftw devils in eliainii, like so
nanv greyhounds in a leaslt. He was agreatexorciserofdevife, and there
is itdl a bole in the innuntainn ra'ttr Prague, into which he fo^tencH a vast
' of them, where th«y flv about by hundreds to the presvnt day.

*" THE VISSEHRAD.

There i» in thig church another relic of great celebrity in Bohemian
ctiristeiidoin, namely the stone coffin of St Lonpnia. Thi» man, accord-
ing to the legend, was a Roman centurion, and was present at the Crad-

«oned him, and put him into a stone coffin, which they threw into the sea.
Ino coffin, however, would not sink, but floated on the nirfiMW till it ar-
nved at some Christian city, and in due time found its way to Bohemia.
The Hussites threw him again into the water, namely, mto the river
Moidau, and for a long time nobody knew where to look for the Biunt.
One day, however, when the Hussit« disturbances were at an end, some
nshermen saw a flame burning on the surface of the water. They tried to
estmguish the flame, but they could not, and it always con^ued precisely
at the same spot. A miracle was immediately presumed to be on the eve
of birtli. An ecclesiastical commission wm appointed, and lo, before their
eyes, the stone coffin of St. Longinus rose up &om among the waves, and
was carried back with due honours to the Vissehnid.

" Who knows whether it's all quito true or not ?" observed my talkative
conductress ; " but one thing's certain. An arm of St Longinus lies still
in the coffin. When their majesties the blessed Emperor Francis, the
Russian emperor Alexander, and the Prussian king Frederick Williani,
were up here, they were all alone with father and me. Only one soldier-
like servant had they with them. Well, they made us show them this coffin
most particularly, and we had to take two candlesticks from the altar, that
they might see the better. The Russian emperoi^s Majesty was most
anxious of all to know about it, and he crept in as ^ as he could, to feel
afler the stunt's arm, and when the emperor's majesty came out again, he
was all covered with cobwebs and dust ' Oh, your majesty,' said I,
' you've mode yourself quite dirty,' and vrith that I knocked the dust oWlm
bock with my hand.' ' That'll do, child, that'll do,' says he to me, and
I was quite surprised to hear him speak such good German."

In the year 1187 there lived in Bohemia a duke of the name of Fre-
derick, who involved himself in a quarrel with the cletey, in consequence
of having applied to hb own use the revenues of the village of Czemoviti,
then the property of some convent or chapter. The priests imposed heavy
pgiiance upon him for this offence, and one of them seems to have had the
audacity to subject the duke to a scourging. Gregory VIL, who kept a
Germuii emperor waiting like a beggar in a courtyan^ had not yet been
dead a hundred yean. The memory of this scourging, the priests sought
to preserve by a picture, in which the duke is represented TCcei^■ing punish-
ment from the hand of St, I'eter. This picture, which still hangs in the
cliurcli, bears the inscrijition, FUigellaltu Frederieus, Dux Bohemiae, a
iS'. I'eiro ob Pagum nomini: CzenutvUz abalienatum, 1187. Frederick,
wIjo died in 1 li>0, was mt-rmA)*^ to the clergy before his death, for, it
bfitnia, Ijc authorized the caixmi of the chureh on the Vissehrad, to adopt
tlic said ll&gellation as their (;'>at of arms, and the reverend gentlemen still
preserve it, representing th<; xaint l^labrfuring the duke with a cat-o'-niae-
taih of most awful dimeruionii,

" When we sliowed this tiictun; to hi* tiiaj'wty Joseph the Second," my
old sextdn continued, — " 1 U-lii-ve it wbji in 'SI, and the emperor was up
here with Laudon, Lawy, and otlwtr (frimt g«itl««ucn, — I was a young

Tire VlSSr-HEAD.

puBfsant then, and hml to stand tnndeatlv sade, but I saw atid licnrd
tvary tiling for all that. The fin« Ilunf^vian fjuanl was drawn u|i nti tbo
ViM^hnul, and the i^arriagM and lervautj waited twlow. Now wlifiu wa
^^wed hb majeitT the [ncture, hv looked vcxcJ, and (hook hU head, say-
Df, ' It «•• not civil for Peter to scourge a priiic« in that war. no, it mns
t'Ter>' uncivil," Th*n he looked dowii fi>r a inomDnt, as if he waa consi'lcr-
'iBg Id hinuclf, aud after tliat he muJ, ' but ihv tiling ia old, to it nl:>^ stop
thLTt-.' Landon was standing b^*, and sinilcd."

^Vnother object that int«f«atpd me in th« <.-hurch, was the tornh of a

' Ctraqui*t or Calixtioe. Th« ruling idea »iLli iUm« peopI« waa tlw witi«-

\Va\>- Ttii'v 1>orv it a» an (niUem an tlu-ir iMitiiu-rt, aud aft^r drntli hiid it

I'Sarvcd rni dieir tombs. Itpftinj tlwi-i- wild Jn'-ilnlJ* dron Sipumiitnl** troops

[fioni the Viwehntd. tio X^a than thirteen chiuvhea Mood tner«. Only "oo

low remains, and th<- fra^^eiit of what wan amx the wall of anotlivr, and

[nhiirh termed La me lilur a f^w odi] linfH of a loot pot^ni. " Oh \ it iiiii«c

[llftvo be«D sad work hero," «ud my «dd seston ; " tho HiiMitcE had no morcy

kt all, but hroug'ht dogs and eaglea widi them, to fight a^ust CUriitian

own."

Behind tb« chiin!]i tie* a DMrlj-eneted nnmal, and mrual bamtrlu for
•ohlicn. for tbo Viasdind atill prcaerroa its character u a kind ol' citadel.
Oti the edg« nf the rock that overliangs the ^foldaii, may be tmccd .some
mined wxM* of great antiquity. Theae, aceonlin^ to traditioit, bt'!oiigi.-d
to ll>^ fi>rtre(^ of Li1)tUM, and ooc part nf llio niiu m still poiDlod out aa
bavin? been Libiissa's bath-room. " But alt that is mere vtiif^r tttlk." re-
ramea niy conductras, "for nothing ii known for certain. Tlint Qti'.'ni
LiboH* aid once liv« up here in a fine palace, amnn^ these rocks and
■hiubs, — oh, that's certain eiiougli. Sbo was a heaUi«n to b« varv, hut
thf was Qa««n of Bohemn, ana a vmy good woman for all that. 8h«
had two sirtMS, KasFia and Theka. Kasha helped her to goreni tlio land,
but Theka was an apothecary, aud knew all about jilants, and the nobles
came from lar and wtdo li> be cured by licr. She also uwvil to give medi-
cuivs to till! fiiok peasants, and she could prophesy, and gave giHxl ailvice
to her sisters. Of course things changed when Lilmnu married Pixewys),
who as king had a right to have hia own \iay. Now, Lilniaaa Itail a vtail-
in^wnniAJi. enlled Viaxta, a i-ery Wutiful maiden ; and when the (piivn
w«9 de!id, \'lft<ta thought Pnemjsl would niarry Aw, and make her Queen
of Bohoaiia. He did not do so, hoK«ver, which so enraged NHasta, th.it
•ba vowe<l vengeaiK«, aud reaolved to make henelf Qtiwa of Bohemia
wilboiil his aid. She went over the Moldnu, — iherft was a bridge lir-rc
tbto,— and she set up her kingdom right opposite the VisschnuL She
got together four bundi-ed Bohemian nuuds and wives, who were at fuud
with UiMr hiubands and Uivers. There, lieyoiid tlie meadow, in the comer
botwecn tlic hills, your honour may still ton tbo spot wbcru \nasta's cat>tle
stood. It wu called Diiin, and thence ilia naed to sally with her maidens,
and wage a emel war against all the Bohemian men. She cut the rijj^ht
thwnb oiS' of all the boys that fell into her handi, that the}* might not lie
■Ue bo draw a bow, and &om all ^iils she cut oflT the ri^it brriut, tint it
migbt not hinder their archery. Site might not hcraelf have been able to
do ubit *hc did, but ali« had a sorceress in her senice, who used to say to
lirr, ' My gi-iitle la«ly, nlicn you go into hatlle, I will fly on before yuu.
Observe my dight and my signals. Ill sliow yuu the ambush of your
euenties, and advise you what you must do.' So, when she nUiod forth^

32 THE aiETBOPOLITAJr CHUSCH OS THE HRADSHIN.

tbe old iritch alwayi Bew before her, and &U tlw Ainazoiu nuibed on,
oj-iug, ' Yaya, yayft ! baba, bafa* !' Not tnie, &thar, that was tbeir ay?"
" Ay, ay, child, that was their cry." — '* And then they lured the kni^ta
into tlieir power, and cut off their noaea and ean, or threw them &om the
Tocks, ana c^tured all their castlea hereabout. Up there, on that high
hiU, lay tbe castle of tbe Knight Mod<d, a true frieod of PrzemyBl'a. That
they captured too. Vlastai with her own hand, cat Modol'a head o^ aod
then (mad weuch that she was) she got upoo the wall, and blew her
trumpet, that Przemysl might hear her tnnmph here on the Vissdirad.
She nad her nlver anoour on, and her beautiful hair &1I down to her
elbowa, and in her left hand she carried her banner. When Pnemysl saw
her and beard her trumpet, I warrant you he was vexed floough to think
he had not made her tus wife at once, and spared all tbii turmoil. H«
made one more taial, however, and sent out his general Prostiradi who
went over vrith a countless number of knighta, aod took back Modol'a
castle, aod killed Vlaata, and brought back her beautiful round head. Tha
rest of her women fled to Divin Castle, and defended themselves for ft
while, but they were all taken at last, and all their heads were cut o£
Not true, father ?"— « Ay, girl, all their heads were cut off."

Amid these aad many other legends of the same kind, evening crept on,
and I could no longer distii^uish the distant objecia to which my talkatirv
eooductrcas directed my attention. Her eloquence and animation invested
her in the sober twilignt, almost with the air of an anient sybil, or Druid
prophetess, nor did her flow of words cease when I prepared to take ray
o^iarture. On ^le c<»itrary, still conversing of the antiquitjei of to*
places she accompanied me down the hill to the French Gate, where tbe
countrywomen and the Devi Slovanski (Slavonian maidens) were enterinB"
heavily laden with vegetables and other provisions for the market, at wfaicn
they meditated to dis[Jay their wares at an eariy how on the followiiw
morning. For more than a thousand years has such been the accustomra
eveninr-acene at that gate, and for a thousand years periiaps have Um
•aoM old Tshekhian ditties been nightly snug by the &ir rustics that hava
tneanarbile provided for the pantiies of^the townspeople.

THE HXTROFOLITAIT CHUBCH ON THE HSAX>SHIN.

Even in the time of the last dukes, much of the glory oS the Vissriirad
was transferred to the rival hill, the Hradsbin, which became the resideooe
of the sovereign in time (4 peace, while ^e Viseehrad was only an ooc*-
nonal retreat, m summer, or when the aty wns pressed by an enemy. At
present, much of the Vissehrad, that was once covered with houses, has been
converted into arable land, or pasturage for cattle, while at the foot of the
hill dwelt the most wretched portion of the population of Prague. " They
are poorer even than those behind the Hradshiu," stud a Prague ^iend to
me one day. Thus to each of the castle crags has poverty clung, to shame
the luxury of wealth by tbe contrast of misery.

High upon the Hradshin stands tbe glorious cathedral, (he metropolitan
church of Prague, dedicated to 8t. Vitus, and which, during the wars by
which Bohemia has socoessivelv been desolated, has alternately suffered from
the saciilegious violations of Hussites, Catholics, and Proteatanto, Swedea^
Gennana, aod Hungahaaa. Tbm UoautM, on one oocaaion, stripped the

THE irETKOPOLITXK CHUBCH Olf TUB HBADSKIV.

churcii of neaHy ev«y thing- iii l1i9 alape of oniAmoflt Tho .Swmlef, who,
tow'anlsthe <!lo9eof the Tbuty Yeara* War. mwUt thnTntelrMmAjiUn Af ih*
UnKlshtii by stmtm^vin. pliintlvrv<l Uid cbiircli to such a decree, th&t they
wm: kUc til wnd wholr shiploads of viImUm dcnra the Elbe to Stock-
holm, whera thejr amy still he seni unonp tfae paldis tflUeedoiu. Frede-
rick tbt Crmt, too, wbeit be bevu^ed Pr«^e, m 17£7t t*vm» bo havv m(
bis hoMt on the drttmctiott of the cstbcdn), agaiiMt wludi the tire of hia
STtillsiy wu mculiarlT directed. What liis motive was, it would 1m> iliffi-
eolt Co ay. He could seu<e«ly think that the garriaou of 5l>,(XM> im-n
woukl aam-uilur tii hiai, for Uu aako of saving Hiv catliednl, Itooold not
bo tea] Car PnitentaiitiKa that ini(MUed Frederick to vow tlw dmtirtctioH of
au imrioiit Catbobe church, withoMt n>^arrl ui iu beauty, its antiquity, and
the uumberies* object* of art which it cootaiDed. I ebould like to knovr
wbedwr Prederick, in any of his warks, hat atteni[>ted toju*tiryfaiinie)f for
tbta barfaaraus tr«atnu!itt of the Hradthin cliurvh, or wht^thi^r nnv one hai
ever cited bim before the tribuDid of public opioioa on account of it. Tho
impartial Bohemian historian. Peliel. ^ves a neiy detailed enumeration of
all tlio boiU, hoRibs, and shi^Us, that were burkd aniast this admirahlo

riincti n( ancient oichiteetuie, by the m«reil(«* oratr of Fredmclt. On
£th of June the builiiinjg^ served as a t«iyr(fbr537bonibfl,9^cuinoD-
balba and 17 eareaufs. o( which, hotvever, it must not be luppotted, that
mil, or iadMd any thiii^ liko half <if tltcm, hit the mark tlity vert fii«d at.
On the 6th. 7(fi. 8th, and 9tb. the (own was couiplirarutcd with 7U4
bomb«, 14 lj21 bolls, and 1 1 1 mir/turx, of which the miij»nty wrrr iiimftl
M the eatbednd. l>aring timae lour days the buililiii^ wiu thirty time: on
fire, and each time it was saved from vnlirv JeaU^K-tioii by the vigilance
and eiertionf of the caunn, John Kai«er. The roof was perforated by no
leas than 21 -^ bnlb^ and wiicn. after the eaimnnsde, thecbiirch wiu cleared
, W tbe tnbbtsh that had meanwhile accumulated tiwre, no lees than 770
balls were collected fmtn different parts of the eilifice. Napoleon, when h«
entered Moseow, Mitt 4 f^nnl to pmlecC llie cliililrvii in tbe great Found-
iin^ Uo«piial. Why did nnt Freaeriek, when he fired hi* fint fpia aMinst
iVagii% grant a simibu* protection to the uatbe^lral on the llradahin, bj
orderinv nil artiller^uiKri railier to fire on any object llian that ? Perhapf
it was toetunate for Krcderick that he did not niMeed in enterin;; tlie city.
Uti, th* Aiend and patron of tbe arts, would have {jjicrixl in very bittcnicM
of aniil, had be witneased tbe destruction htH own artillery had cd'ecrcd.
Tbe Gothie iiiimiiwili east down, the ji^Tacefal columns shattered, and tb«
bcautiU statuea mutilated in everr ima^ahle way.

Scareely one of the many splenaid tombs remaiucd iininjiircd. Neither

tlie beautiful marhle monument, executed by Kcriin of Nurembtrrjf, and

«rect«d in 1JS9, by Uodolpb II., to tbo memory of Mazinitian IU Fenli-

aaud 1,, and Anne, his wife ; nor tbe veDcrable statues, strrlcbed on their

iaBRtipha^ nf the old Bohemian dukes Spitignev and Brzetislav ; nor tba

E-43iapel cf the tonbs of tba arebfaishops ; nor the other ohapel that (.-ontaiM

i4ba BUMmnieitta of twenty-fiMir oFtbe noUeit families of Itnliemia; uidMd

ibe mootmiaiit of Vratisfaus von Barenitein, die Chaucelkir of Masimiliaa

IL, if aknost tbe only one that M<-ap4!d unacatbed.

Few cbnrdicR in Germany surpnss Uics cathedral is bc«t)ty, richness, and
io tbe interact of its historwal ai»oeiations. Tliere is none to which it
I to bow more &t{iuil:>- than to tho metropolitatt cliurvh of Cracow, iti
I npoHi Ibc dust of 'oU lb* Polisb kings. In both way bo trac«d »

;;rn>i«r''-" '.f tf*-hTf*^ifrv. whI a liiiiilaiiMi iif fiBlliiiM fa is iMoaiBUB^
.',:^f r-iich-h*T-» ^4ah>wlt oiwh rn mninit -me <if dwndia^ E^n AviB^id
f :in*^.rntir mM iM TnfnfMninn at Cramw. wi doMly WMniMin; k m ail
rj '(rfiita ~fr«t .in^ '•annot Md wnndarin^ «C dM iMifiiM** « H"""* "
-ntnftf W.fft n^h >rh*r. •it' rwn wrMt of «««nti in pwfcf.dy afiha.

.%>;,<. .>f * rh^fv 'tiirt « -tfra imw in Bohnauk ii 4oonid » bsvw moB*
/ror-^fn.rl- .-*i»*m1 -n iiim than thn hiaCrtiy of 9c 5cpnn^ aa^ ncxs dk
.T-'^rt-fnt^ tfKl rVpon^n^ of ivpratann irrKne dw ailacBtnca of dw iw»
,n««„.>:*| •/tnnwfloD. SUvftM :inni«l ont if si vnaAn-m. These two aamci««a wacw iaxaStf
> -tA -'• |v>ronMt' a «nrnni^ from che (l«y of bn arrival tiD nat of Imi
rff^r'iirv. H'>vT'>r wf>U jon mxj hav<> prep are d ▼oonctf br baUneal
ifo/tiA' vith » ItnowMffr of &11 the deuiu of the Tliiitj- Ions' War.
^^rA'A •Hvmm^nramMniT^ aH votir pro£»!*nn at Boon or GoOti^^cn will ban toU
-rtn .4 r,t -i^ 'W'h) frnm *.h« rlar OH whidi the two Bbore-naiiied |wrinnayw
-.*>■'■ f urnblHt upon the dnng^U tinder the HradihiD -, yet mt aMond tiaC
ill '\\^ :ip>t. AiW^^m^fs yon travel in, there will be some teamed gcnlkoMB or
othT '^lio ffiil rind or make an occasion to tell the stoiy OTcr again far
^fyttr >>«pw!itil henelit. And by the time your learned gentleman baa got to
£h<> "n't of hi^ first story, it will go hard but at the next bridge you enm
(h*n> will he » chapel, fr an image dedicated to St Nepomucene, and, if
■o, yo(i mit^ rMt e^natlv aMured that joa. will hare related to yon, with aO
'ttA a'>'v>mpanjingf \aaaenXM, the whcJe legend of the aaint, which, it is odda
hnt yoi) hi«ve heard and f''Tgotten again sundry timea before yon set foot on
Briti^iitn ap-onnd. By tht«ctiog saint, when your charitable infmnaQt will
be liicniy to '>pen agun with " There, look there, sir ; there you hare th*
holy ^rwimaV again ; he is the same as tbe one I was tellmg you <£,
whom King VenzenUus," 6cc., and bow far tbe et csetera may extend will
depf^id 'm ynar patience under the infliction. Well, in due time the hills
of Fragne jirewnt tbemselvet to your view, the Hradshin towering proudly
above Ute rest. Immediately your travelling companion will open again
upon you with " There, look there, sir ; tliere you may see the castle m»n
the windows of wliieh the two imperial counseUors, Slavata and Martinitx,"
&c. The next morning you are tempted to walk abroad, but if you come
to the Prague bridge, beware how you stop to look at fire golden stars thak
are creetetl there. If you neglect my caution, rely upon it your quality of
stronger will bo discovered, and some kind self-elected cicerone will
approach and tell you, " This, air, is the very spot from which St Nepomuk
was thrown into tne water. He was a pious man, but King Venzeslaus,"
&c. Animated, no doubt, by this time, with a salutary dread of the
saint, you probably cut your interlocutor short, by praying him not to in-
flict upon you a legend which you have learned by neart during the few
days you have been in the couctiy. You fly to a neighbouring coff'ee-
house, the windows of which, to your sorrow, look upon the Hradshin.
You order a cup of bouillon perhaps, and while you rit sipping it, your
host comes sLmperiiig up to you. In your imguarded innocence you may
allow some Bucii question to escape you, as " What's the news ?" If bo,
vou have sealed your fate. " Your honour were looking out of the window.
tiare your honour already hod the condescension to go to tbe top of the
hill ? But you have from here a very good view of the two windows—

THE METKOPOI-ITAN CnURCB OK THE UBAHSHIN.

lonk , ytMT honour, tlutre timy nn, at wliicli manj yean ttf^ a vAry ntniAricaUe
event oocufTwl," — " Whit, tume minnntic love-rtnrj* 1' * — " No, sir ; from
those vrintlows it via tliat the two counsclton of the Emperor )tattbia»—
their names were SlaFat& and Martin itx^-^" "Oh, lieaveiif !" you ex-
cliiini. ^'uur rvry bouillon turns to bitt«nM-«!i, and you match tip hat and
■lick, and run to St. Vitii-s'n ehurrh, in llir ))o|ir that irniiv volunteer in-
fimnant take voii in hand nj^in, ho itinv make th*> pairoii of llic cdiiice the
topic of lui diacowrw. Idle hp[>c! Ot St. Vitus no nti* duoms it necoa-
taiy tasajr a word, but one of die &1tcii<Iant yoii, witli a fare all mdlant nitli the- lit>pc of a thumir, and
thus liis innlion will lii'giii ; " Tin; ittiMt rcniiu-kabU- objret in our chunb,
b tliis rich ntoriument of silver, >vlucb conloiua no less tlian twenty-sevni
hundred •weight of that metal. It was erected in honour »f St. Nepontuk,
whom till! Fjtipcror Venzivlam," &c. My poor itranjyer! thi* is una of
th« <lti:cntnfort» of trnvcl that thoti niiirt. not hope to r«c«i>«, and the aanc-
titr of the ^aee fnrbids thee the rtlief of a. good set oain. N&v, wotddst
thou even save tityxelf by utdden lii^ht, the chanees are that thy retreat ia
cut off bv Aonift \<-iiombIo priMt, v-ha tnkei up die ttory at the point that
thrlmillUcr nttendoiit had jusi reached. In that case, patieiico is thf
aolj moiiree. Listen with refipnation. and thciu liast a chonee that tlid
story will come nil tlie snoner to an end. So, now Ila^')n^ pi-epored thee fsr
Uu milictioii, hear &>»] attend.

Nepomuli, or more properly, Jolianko von Ncponnik, was bom about iha
middle of the fourteenth ccntut)', in the little Boliciiiiitii town of Xopontuk,
At hie birth, it u Haiti, bright nya ofgiot^- were seen to shine ar«und liis
mnlher's honw. He became a preaclier in the ancient city of Pnugnr^
wbem lit« fame fniread so rapidly, tliat he wait ratt.t>il to tlic otKeo of nl-
monei* to the ktnff, and bMAme the qu^n'n eonfeittor. Now Iho Icin^
(VcDzcslaufl IV., the relehrated German emperor, the son of Charles IV.,
who hod al«o in bii tiiue \ieeii King of Dobeaiin and Emperor of Germany),
—the kinF, I nay, was deoirouc of knuwiiij^ what tJin nii4>eii, who had ofton
nauifeatca gnat dejoctioo of spints, mij^ht havo confided to her coafc&sor.
Vcnnslaiu wished to know whether she made his onn ttide behaviour the
cuhjece of eoinplaint, or wIiMlieT nerliaps her mcinnrholy were oocaaioned
by a ttxnt l»ve-aJfnir. Johauko, liowcver, could never be pnvailvd on to
W'trny u syllablo of what he Iicd learned in the eonl'nsionat. Sometime
afterword it so ehsnced that there was brought up to the royal table a very
fine MfWD, but wbieb, ob btiag C4n'«d, wan found (o be very muoh under-
done, Tie king ww hereupon in such a rn^ that liu ordered the cook to
Im upttted alive and roasted to death. Nepomuk did not fall to rate hit
majeity rountUy (or » atrocious an act of barbarism, but the holy man
took nothing by his motion but a few dayi' aulitary eonfinmieiit, where he
would pro1)ably have been permitted to indulge for some time longer in liii
pious meditations, had not the kin^ still hoped to draw from Mm Mtne of
the qucco'a secrets. Nepomuk rviuoiued liroi, thoui^h he ajtucArt to luiv«
liaid some fonbodbg of what tint conM-iinenc^ would he, for lie proplieated
one dey that he woiikl slmrtly die a violent death, nnil itn FAying took ao
> ■fleetiooste leave of his Irieudl. The following moruinj;, At he wa« posnog
by the cattle, tlie king called liim in, and renewed liia fanner solicttationi.
■ Johanko vttu iiiAeiible, whoraupon the king lind him ceiaed, boitod hand
I and foot, and had him thrown tliat v«r\- ereiiing Irnni the brvlgo mto tha
JloUau. The king Uiought uobody would have knovm any iLuig about

M 'f ItiB MKTIf rrOLITAir CHUSCH ON THE BSADSSa.

Ota «.»***», (rtil ilww *»• wM miitakeD, for not only were bri^t raya rf
Kt«4 / •#*« l>< "tii"" "*■' ***• ^ ''''*" ^^ ^^7 ^7' **"* ^°*' **"•" *'"''•
Xtyii lU l*"l "*' *'•• ''''*' *" "7' ™ "'**^ flowing over iL BEi»cle« with-
^,1 „„„,|*f w«tr« imrtartned at the Bftint'g graTC, and people obseired that if
Ma *f)Hi< ti»iri'*ti*fl to express a doubt of the bolymaas beatitude, or to
MU-t, aUtiMuttly '" •eonmilly upon his tomb, the day never passed orer
mihitiil Mrtif* flw^race nr caumity to tiie sceptic. In doe time the saint
•r«« UiMillMl hy Pope Clement XL, and canonized by Benedict XIII.

fHittM timtt, the veneration for St Nepomucene has spread with mar-
tnUinia rM^ty through Bohemia, Moravia, and a part of Poland and
AiMtfi*' J" mJ these countries he is esteemed the patron saint of bridges,
j^,/] th« ■! — ' oraiscMi addressed to him by his devotees is this, " O holy
fH JKikpMntKcne, g^ant that no such miafortuue befall us on this bridge a*
ft^^* b*Wl thee."

$if the Btle of the silver monument of the saint, over which sundiy silver
Mb«(<tb an Men to hover, there hangs a golden lamp of immense value.
TIm* lamp has been stolen on three several occasions, and now, to protect
^Hi aod the other valuables of tlie church, a large fierce dog is rughtly
gkttt Dp there as a guard to the gems and relics of the holy place. It la
weU that the Turks but seldom visit the Hradshin, or this dog in charge of
ft duirchful of saints would be added to the already formidable catalogue
of atrocities laid to the charge «f the Chnstians. So unclean is this animal
in the eyes of a Mahometan, that I believe he would greatly prefer to have
a whole legion of devils shut up in his mosque.

With the varying versions that have obtained currency of the saint'a
adventures, I will not now detain the reader, that I may the sooner have
done with the other great national bore of Bohemist wtuch, as he is now
accompanying me through the country, he is bound to endure, as I have
done many a time before him. So here goes for Slavata and Martinifc^
and if we are to have the story, we could have it nowhere more oppor-
tunely than in this very church, in which we may at the same time aamira
the monument erected to the memory of Counsellor MaitinitE himfglf-
Ailon» I Courage !

Frightened by the daily increasing spread of Protestantism in Bohemia^
a CatEoUc nobleman and a Catholic abbot had found means, in 1618, to
■hut up and destroy two newly-erected Protestant churches, alle^g that
they did so by order of the Emperor Matthias. All the Protestants and
Utraquists of Bohemia, amnug whom were many of the first men in the
countty, were greatly exrited, and held meetings, at which it was logically
demonstrated that such treatment waa in direct violation of the royal
Letters of Grace that had been granted them. A deputation was sent to
Vienna to remonstrate. The emperor, meanwhile, had taken serious
offence at the stormy meetings of the Protestants and Utraquists, to whom
he sent a menacing epistle, which the states of the kingdom were sum-
moned to the Hraushm to hear read. They assembled, listened to the
formidable threats of the emperor, and pronuaed to return an answer on
the following day. They assembled agam, accordingly, at the time i^-
pointed, attended by bodies of armed men, when they found the ro^I

Evemora, Slavata, Martinitz, Adam von Sternberg, and Diepold von Lob-
witz, waiting to receive them. Of these four men, the two last were
generally popular; but the two first, bigoted Catholics, and tyrannical
tukia^ were univenaUy detested, and there ware many among the states

THE METKOPOLITAN CBt'ItCn ON THE URADSIUN.

«7

who nere of opinioa, Uiat loligknu freedom nmlil nevpr In firmly «ata*
blixlii'tl ill BnhicmiB, sa Inng as tboM^ men c«ntiniied in pow^, unci thftt
tlicrcforc ttic brat tiling tiuty couU do, would La In gec rid of them &h soon
Ba poMibk. Some opposed these Tiolcnt couum^ btit the niajority ap-
nlauded them, xai crowded from the Grocn Chnmtvr, orhpN thev bid
Mmi oowultnig togvtbor, into tbc UoviTumtral llsll, where they ^dn-fwd
Utter nproulic* to the gavernan, for attcmptiug todcpiivc ihe UtnujuiiiU
of tbeir Letlprs of Grace. Tho Oberstbttr^graf, Adam von Sternberg, Bid-
dnv-Md Ums tumultuous uMmbly iii a ooacdistor^ tone, and WBni«d tbcn
A^iiuC the COmmJKKm of an/ act <>!' vii'Ic-nci-. Kolon i-oa Feb tbcrcupoo
Kt»ppsd ferwud, and «ud tint Uicjr mrant no hu-m to tlie Obentbui^^af,
nor to liie Lordship of Lnbkowits;, with whom they were well contented,
bnl iJuit they were in tin way Mticfied vritb Mean. SUvata and Maitiajt^
wlw) werct kltray* iH«)cing occtdoa to opprMt tlw Utnqtiuta.* Venanlaaa
Ton Rnsoora VKrIiuined, that thu best tlung they toaiA do, wonld be to
throw Uuni out of tbe window, accordiD|f to the gi>od old IJnliirmiaa
fuiilon Ipo MarotthaAu). Some of the parly now wiftt up to Stmtbv^
aiMl Lobltou'icz, teokthara by tlMamir and M thcmriviDy nutof llieroom.
SUvau antl Mnrtinits began to bo eetioudy frij^bteued, nutde great pro-
testJitiona of Uktir innocence, and demanded, if iliey )uul doix- any tiling
wtuug, Uiat ihey might bo allowed a lair trial. Tim inoMiwd fMbngs of
the aocniKIy eould not, howe*cr, be npp<-tv>pd. Williiun von Lobkowits
■tsppcd u|) to MaiiJnitac, and seiaed lam ny bot}i hia hands. This may be
■aid 1o have been the Grat retolutionatj act of the Bohemian insurrection.
Could William of Lobkowiti have foreseen the umoeakaUe misery that
wa« about to overtake bit couatJTi he would probaUy bave aliruuk bode
and liare cried. " 1 «rill not b« u» man to raise the firat stone to that
fri^lulul avaJatwhe." Not that it can be shown thut the horrors of the
Thirty Years' War would bare been averted if WiUiiin of Lobkowitx bad
kept BIB hands off Martinitz, or if the Calixtinc States hud brco more nio-
dernte, and had tried tn guin tlietr ends by ^r mean?, for great erenta ue
like MrcMSU fed by liundrodj of aotucM, and the histoian who orguea that
if Ifaia or ibat incident bad not oc curre d, eonm great political development
wodd not bave followed, i* like a eettain Auatnaa, win £u)eiad if ha ooold

* To naie at our Kiigliah n«den it KuAjt net be mperflncHU to cxplaia Ihal the
Utnqulltsar Calistnm mvi veil thu r luuuc iucotMeqaaieeof thdrdenuid tbatthe
calix or wint^-cup shuulJ be eiicii to brincu a* wcU »» priist* in the mamtuiicv.
^H^dem&iidi wrrv complkd with bj- tli« Conncil of UMtl, in 1433, «Jid aflvr tbuir
yiebory at Biibtniachbrod, in 14U, over tbe Eaqwfur }<ig!«maail, tb^ obtained
lUwrty uTGuoadcaee^ and oiler ili« Brfb nMlfa n maaitetud ua vnrknu eetMnne dHlr
nrmpalhjr far Die ProCMtanti. Their renual to Nrva againat tlui frateMaDti fn tk*
Saalkalilic war, <lrrw apon Uieni, at flrM, menxv pcraxntionK, )iul uflci liiC, Pei^
dbanil I., whn was not ul-diipmcd towaide thcoi. oHowcd ihtm lu itiarv In the air
Tanlaito c»ikc<1«1 to Ini sruiiidkal rabgcctt. BbximilUn II Rrantcit to the Utra*
qtutUacomptelofrcoJoin'i/nUKfaMMeMreiM), Unikr lUulnlpli II., iheJr ditiatiaa
vu kM fannmlilc. and thov ku conaidetmUa diflkBlty in obcauiitid (hum Iiim llie
Maittfltdn^,OKlxtU!rarGnBt,albid»dtaabim, which wa* graaied ua the Mh of
July, leoB, and by which the Bofaemian CoDterioii. handed in conjoint^ bj- the
Utramihte, the BMKmian tretbeo, aad the Bmvcttcalt, waa paMefy recosBlnd,
and lUr wadwfaatfcal ordlnanwe. by wkft-h their idMMb and diaiebca were ngo-
UxtA. aoi) bv virtue «f which the}- )>a>1 ti>ul their mm CMMi*>orium at I*T«in>ei were
confimwil. Tbr repeated Tiol«tk>n> o( l)iv Afajfttsuhntfi^ M&ttluu, led to (])« ta-
nniltuoiH KCOM al the nradjUn, which are d ea u r lljiJ ia tin lest, and which on
ffeneniljr loojced on aa finmlng the onthnak of tbeTfality TaaiV War.— 7>.

28 THE HETBOFOLITAS CHUSCH ON THE HBAS8HIN.

■top the source of the Danube with hia foot, he should be able to prevent
tfae Danube itself from reaching Vienna.

Be this, however, as it may, William of Lobkowits, did not stop to
make any such reflections. He seized Martinitz by both his hands. Four
other nobles lifted the trembling governor from the ground, bore him to
the nearest window, and without ceremony pitched him out. It u said,
that the assembly stood for several moments in dead silence, terrified dpp^-
rently by what they had themselves done. A similar interval of silence is
■ud to have occurred in the Roman capltol, after the conspirators had
■truck Cesot to the gromid.

The first to interrupt this silence was the Count of Thum. " Gentle-
men," he exclaimed, " there's another of them," pointing at the same time
to Slavata ; who was immediately seized, and dealt with in the same way
u his colleague. Master Philip Platter, the private secretary, was also
^ectcd in the same unceremonious way as his masters. No record is left
us of what was aaid after the outrage, bv those who remained in the room;
nor how they looked at one another, 'fhey soon anpear to have found the
air of the place too close for them. In a little while we see them, particu-
larly the Count of Thum, riding down into the city, to appease the fears of
the people, whom they told to be under no uneasiness, for that the entire re-
sponsibility of what had been done, would rest upon those wlio bad dene it.
Jt was not till the third day after the scene of violence at the Uradsbin,
that the states met again. They then entered into a covenant, and elected
thirty men, who, on the resignation of the royal governors, were to take
tq>on themselves the administration of public afTairs. The Bohemian revo-
lution was now proclumed, that was to terminate, only two years later, by
a counter-revolution, terrible in its consequences, and carried through with
a cruel conustency. It was the last time that the Bohemians can be said
to have manifested a consciousness of their old Tshekhian political usuages,
for never since then have tiiey again had an opportunity of exercising th«
po MtaroUkesku.

Not the least remarkable part of this little political drama was the fact,
that not one of the three gentlemen, who so imwillingly showed their
uilit^, Buffered any serious inconvenience kom the compulsory leap, though
Ue window through which they made their exit, was at lea§t sixty feet
fimn the groimd. Master Phihp was the first to get upon his legs again ;
whence it may be inferred, that the occupation of a secretaiy tends less to
the promotion of obesity than that of a royal governor, and the inference
will generally be found to apply to the secretaries and governors of other
countries aa well as to those of Bohemia. Flatter, as soon as he had
scrambled out of the castle-ditch, into which he had fallen, ran as fast as
he could to Vienna, where he told the emperor what had taken place.
How happy Platter must have felt, to have thus the first telling of a story,
in the repetition of which so many thousands continue, even to this day, to
take such unspeakable delight !

Martinitz and Slavata found some kind Samaritans in the street, who
helped them into the house of the Chancellor Zdenik von Lobkowitz, where
they found succour and protection. Count Thum, indeed, at the bead of a
riotous multitude, appeu«d before the house, and demanded the delivery of
the two obnoxious governora, hut the lady of the mansion, Polyxena von
I^obkowitz, pacified the count with fair words, and assured him that both her
guests were lying in bed in a miserable condition. Slavata had indeed a

t-ITAN

wound nil hia h»ul. t)iat (>)>I:fr«l« to tcavo tfw city in dteguuc. n« w«nt tO
Muuiclii whrre Iw died about eixytim afterwards.

I trust Ute reader will not hate forgotten, uhil« w» haw I>een thus
discounbig of talcs nf th« oldeu time, tliiit m> aiv titill in lb* metropolitan
cbnrcfa of the UndahiD, where wd have a muliitudo of curioaitiw co paas
ia renew. In the chapel of Vcnzeslniu I was curious to knfiw the pTVCiM
spot where the ilohi^'niiuii n'l^liii vmrv pre^rvcd. My gtiido t«ld me he
dnriKt not f^rc nic tho rc-quircil iiifornutioii, Um place where they were
krpt bcinff- a profound sircrci. The cntruicc, he added, wm by an iron
door seeiirecl by three separate locks, to each of wbidt there was a wpunta
Ice}', and these tbre<^ kev were eomniitted ta the kecpinfj of throe of tho
linit' offii'L^rg of state. I pressed him not the Irts to let me into the secret ;
t«]1irig Kim tha.t I took enien:U delight in knowing myself to be in tlia
vieinity of any obieet of mstoiiea.! interest, beeauae I felt within niyielf a
patticolar siucHititiility for the vlvcUifyiii;; itiiprvivioRH cinu»&tin(^ from
ouch ol^cct*. This, I aaded, wiu purtirulnrh* thet-uso nitli respect to crowns
aod toeptivs, ia whone poetical atiiiosnlierc I loved to bathe myself, and oC
wliOTC inllueiive, I fell lusured, I sSiuultl bfcumuconiicious, even tlirouglt the
incervetiing !in[>ediniml of a wuW. Morttivcr, I lolil hiiti, no crown could
hnvo more interest in my eyes than oiiv that hud been worn by so many
Bohemian kis^ and Ocrnian «mi>eioi-s, a crow-n for whoeo sake so nuav
a bloody hatUe had lieen fought, a croMit which Jnseph II. hail ran-iea
away with htm to Vieiiiu, and which Frederick of the Palatinate (tlie
winter kinff, ns lie ti eidled in Bohemia) had mrel'ully packed up when
' about to take hia departure, but wliich, owing to the prcuipilaiicy of liia
flight, w:u left itaudiiig with Tarioiu other talnables, in the public market-
plaeeof Prague.

It had mvan while ttruek oae o'clock. Ahcavy rain wufallinjt: without,
and drtaining mc a prisoner within llic chim:h. I was fdouc with my at-
tend.int, who emboldened by titi* nmitnstaiice, or moved by my eloquent
appeals, manifested syniptome of relenting. He opcined the VenMslaitf
oMpel, and told me lliat, tliough he dai'ed not on a.ny account jmint out the
■pM tome, yet if I would keM> my eye on lu'iti, he would slightly nod his
head when lie came to tbe picture holiind which was concealed the iroa
door of (he nhrine were the reigalia were kept. We proceeded accordingly
to ioqwot all the curiosities of the chagtel. Firstly, thelieaiitiftil antes and.
jaspers witli whidi the walls of th« eliapi'l are inlaid. Thru tnu tombc
of the fust dukes of Bohemia, and lastly, the ring which Duke V«ntc*Uut
|;raspML when he fell to the gimuid wnunded by his biolber. This brotlicri
wboce name wni Holealav, eoveted the crown, and placed liiinself at the
head of a oonntiracy of molccontcntt, in whiime eyM Voui;e«hkus was too
pious, too cmliuaus, and too fond of the priests. V'cniealaus rarricd his
piety so fiir. that he planted and tended with his own hand the grajies
and thp com of whioh wiu prepared the bread and the wine used for the
MnuauuitHi, cutting, tlunshing, and griiidiug tlie corn, baking the bread,
initpmting tlie wine. AVhat wilh tliese pious exercises, and tiis oonstant
atti^ition to the ehurdios he was pluiuiog and building, he left Inmielf no
time to attend to state aRun. Ouo day. having n-pAi(%d to Duiudau, Uy
attend the consecration of a church, he became hi) bnillier't ^ueat, ami this
opportunity was looked on by the eonspintors ns favour«hle to the exMa-
turn of their dcsi^. Ou thv following moniing, the 28th of September,

30 THE KETSOPOLITAir CHITBCH ON THE HKAS^mr.

936, VenzeiUut hutened, aa wu bis ' costom, to choKli, in of>edi«aoe
to the mttiii'H chime. At the church-door be met bis brother, wbom he
pr&ised for his bnspitable entertainment of the preceding day. BoIcsUt
then nid in a banterinr tone, " I will entertain thee better to-day," and
with that drew hii >wom and dealt the dnke a beary blow over the bead.
Be did not wound him mortally, and Venzealans had strength enourh left
to disarm hii assasnn and fling him to the groimd. " May God forgive
jou for this, toother," he cned. Boleslav, meanwhilej baring &lleii,
roared ont for help as though he had not been the assailer, bnt the assailed.
Bis aerranta aod sereral <n the conspirators came to his assistance, and at-
tacked the doke, iriio defended bimself stoutly while retreating to th»
diurcb-doOT, where he fell, pierced by the swords of his enemies. In dyin^
he grasped convulsiTely the iron ring of the door, and when his body was
brought to the Hiadslun, to be buried in SL Vitus's church, which he bad
built there, the ring, atw^ was brought thither, and has been preserved
there erer nnce, where ereiy traveller may have the pleasure of grasping
it in bis turn, eren though he should feel no ambition to earn the glory of
martyrdom and canonisation, after the fashion t^ Duke Veiueslaus.

We came next to the tomb of Duke Braetislar II. ; then viewed some pie-
tores of saints, iududing those of St. Ludmilla, St CbHstopber, and sundrr
othen. I kept a sharp eye on my guide, and did not (all to notice at whioa
picture it was that he nodded, however slight the gesture was. My reader
and I are both in the secret as to the meaning of that nod ; but at which

C'cture was it F That is a secret, gentle reader, in which I must not
t thee participate, lest thou betray it to some designing revolutionist
from whom the crown and sceptre ca Bohemia might be exposed to serious
peril.

Every Bohemian loves to wander among these monuments of the anaent
dukes and SMnts of the land, rich with & thousand associations with names
and things, the memory of which he has learned from infancy to love and
venerate ; bnt the cathedral of the Hnidshin baa aJao its reverse, for at the
opposite side of the church is a series of votive tablets, paintings, and
carvings in wood, intended to commemorate the victory on the Whit*
Mimntun, a victory which, even at the present day, u an object of ftorrow to
liio Bohemians, and which cert^nly exercised a more permanent iofiuence
over the fortunes of the country, than was ever exercised by any other
victory in Bohemia, either before or since, for it may be said to have decided
the fate of the kingdom for the 220 years that have since elapsed.
Rudely earved in wood may be seen a complete representation of the
battle ; of the entrance of the Duke of Bavaria, the Emperor Ferdinand's
general, into Prague ; of the poor Winter King's Sight ; of the tribunal
that Ferdinand established. No German, no Austrian, no lover of bis
kind can withhnlil his pity when he sees o Bohemian moving mournfully
tliroiigli this gallery. Who, in fiM;t, can withhold a, tear when he tliinlcs
with what Aiarful tiiroes 1 1trnipiimn aii<l the Reformation ciune into life in
Bohemia, and with what frightful madions, after so painful a birth, they
wcm again annihilated ?

Tnily gratifying are tlin |ii<:tur(>ii prcM-iited to us by Bohemian historians
of the coiidit.inii of the country timlcr the tiiilil empcntrs and kings towards
th<> cliMe of the li^iriM^ntli rt^iitury. Tli» artx and sciences Hourislied. The
churchvi werv adorned with jinintings of niro merit ; picture-galleriea

THE UZTROPOLITAN CBURCn ON THE B1U,I«HIH.

vero eoUtcted ; Tycho Btafa^ Ke^iler, and otfaer «nuneat nnriU of th«
mgfi, studied, wniti.-, and taught in the capital of Ik^cmta.. Tho whocJi^
Mtli in town and oovntry, were ciccllent, uid tmt Ktnong tbe women of
th« land th«n ware many distbiffaislifld for their l^&rninj^ and infarmiUioiL
Poets and orators rme and floonsbed, and the works thvn wnttcn >ti]l aerYO
w dune*] models of Ungtuge. Tli<- Mveral fetiirioD« partim, the Htn-
^iBEla, the Hu«hU«, tliQ Bohemiaa Itmthnu, the Catbimcs, and tli« Pro-
tcataDti, an lired in harmony with oa« another, aod lueh was the *pirit
of lalentktni Umi otiea in one and tbo aaioe village, xhirt reli^oitf
putio, with their tbreo tet'cral pnaton, Kvsd in {xmee niid fn»na«faip
together.

The angels in twaren moat hare rejoiced otbt such a stale of things,
hot the Jeniita were griei«d and ofiGended br ic They held ihe heart)) of
the pRueei in thdr handi, and nerer rated till th4>y Ivul ImrU^d thn tir«-
bnuid into the peacvFLiI house, and when they had succeeded in setting it
in 11 blue, they sent priucM and anniia in to queneh it, and uiterir to
denroy tho burning edifice. The battlB of the White Mcmntuii, whero
Um icL>-urf^nt4 under ttw Winti-r King. Frederick of the Palotinirte, vrer*
tlrCrated hy Maxiniilian of Bavaria, decided every thing The imneiial
tton|i9 omuiHed Prague, « h eo ti e they com nwmded the whole land, and held
it like a rictim bottiid to tbe fltake, while Fenliniind II,, in (fl>t-divuc«
to the suggvrtions of bis Jesuits^ anhjei^ted the cnnntry to a series of
ofiemtiona that bora a strildag ainulitude to the ordinance mth which
Philip n. had afflieted BdgianL

A ecalTold was erected at Prague, upon which the leaders of the insar-
rection suffered in quick nicceitnion. The aentence pranounccd nnd eie-
rutsd upon thoev decJared g<ulty a( high treason, was a ina>it«-rf<)c<» nf cla-
l>orat« i:riimiiul adjii<Jioiittou. It itM tlK-rcin uiiimtely determined, who
ibouM be executed with the axe and who with tbe sword, who should lose
his tight tumd btjore a.iid who afier lh« execution, and who was to hate
bis tongue tarn out. It wiu ftlso ipeciticd how the bodies of luch u wem-
■Iready df«id wrrc to be disposed of ; who were to be cut into fotir, who
into eight pneces, and on wiiat gates these several pieces were to be ex-
pnted to the pnblic gaie.

Tbe establuh4n«nt uf thii tribunal was followed by the coniinenocmeni
of a syttemacic countrr-nnntutioii. In every boiwe of et-ery IJoliemian.
town, not only the heads of hinilies, but (heir wives, workpeople, and ser-
roots^ in sliort all the iumatea of eodi huuM.', wcro dltej an to return a
categorical answer to these qneatioaa.

Art yon by birth a Cathobe?

Have you Men «0DTertad to the Catholic faith ?

Doyna pmmiae to become a Catholic ?

'WnooTsr n^used to embrace ColhoUriiini, wiut decloretl incompetent (o
eurdse any eorpomte tnde, and wim gnnerally deprived of hi* property
into the bwgain. aitd expelled &ora the country. So far was the >yrieia
of persecution carried, that the Proiestaut poor and nek were totnird oitb
of iIm Iir>^(itahi, and orders were giTCQ that none bat CatbtJica ^ould in
future be admitted there.

After this state of tliii^s, tbe details of which nie frightful and revoke
Ibj, had oonlinBed for aeeen ycoiv, tlw em|>emr came to Pmgue with hie
taiSy, aad^ hanng tuimBOiMd a diet, bod bts »ou FenUnand IlL

32 THE UET&OPOUTAN CHURCH OK THE HKADSHOT.

crowned as kinf^. A few yeus before, the questioa had been gnriiy
ductissed by the states, whether it would not tie better to erect Bohemia
into a republic, like Switzeriand or Holland, than to elect Frederick of
the Falatinato to the throne ; in thta new diet, no one even ventured to
nuse the question whether the crown was elective nr hereditary. Ferdi-
nand annulled the Letter of Grace, and all the privileges of tiie states,
commanding at the same time, that the Bohemian language should no
longer be used in any of the law tribunals. The nobles readily adopted
the German langua^, and the townspeople were obliged to leam it, for
the monks preached only in German. The burghers in the cities began
to be ashamed of spe^ng Bohemian, though, not long before, even the
nobles bad prided themselves on their national language, and had not
hesitated to speak it at the court of the German emperors. The peasant
only continura to speak as his ancestors had spoken, and what had been
the language of a nation, came to be considered the dialect of the vulgar.
Distinguished as Bohemia had been, under the preceding emperors, for
the cmtivaUon of B<nence and art, she now sank rapidly into ignorance
and barbarism. That the people might be more easily ruled ny being
kept in ignorance, the Jesuits went from house to house, as missionaries,
and took away what books they could find, and burnt them. So effectu-
ally do they appear to have performed their mission, that to speak of a
" Bohemian" book, or a " scarce" book, ia now esteemed the same. Even
the costume of the people was changed, and gradually superseded by that
of the conquerors.

" I must remind my hearers," says the historian Peliel, at the close of
his reflections on the consequences of the battle on the White Mountain,
" that here the history of Bohemia closes, and the history of other nations
in Bohemia commences."

Bohemia now stands like its metropohtan church, incomplete, weather-
beaten, and covered with scars, but like its church, also restored to peace
and order. We must read the resolutions of the Bohemian diet if we
wish to know to what extent, and according to what plans, the Bohemians
meant to have constructed their state edifice ; but the ori^nal plan of St.
Vitus 's church may be more easily studied, for all the drawings are still
preserved in a sm^ room over tlie vault of one of the chap3s. In its
present condition the church is evidently a mere commencement of the
arclutect's design ; if completed, the building would have been more than
three times its present sise.

The treasury of the church is rich in a midtitude of curious and valuable
objects. In one cabinet I counted no less than 32 golden mitres. I took
several of them in my hand, and observed to my guide that I thought them
heavy. " And yet, sir," said the man, archly, " our gentlemen ore so
very fond of wearing thera!" In various drawers are preserved no less
than 368 priestly vestments for the service of the moss, many of them of
astonishing richness and splendour. One of them was of a material that
might have furnished a mantle either for a beggar or a prince ; it was of
common straw, but plaited and worked with such surprising art, iJiat the
whole looked tike elaborate embroidery. Most of these vestments are gifts
from Bohemian nobles, and the history of some of these presents may
contribute to illustrate the character of the country. Thus, one vestment
has been mode up from the bridal dress of a Countess Tshemio, another of

THE METBOPOLITAN CHCHCH ON THE HBADSDIN.

Gm camnntioii robos of Uorift Theresa. One uf th« riclK'et nf sJl, and
wliich ia oiilv di>|^ved va ocouioD* of great «olcninitji', hu boaii deco-
ntei I>y tlie Prince of Scbwancnlnir;;, nicJi ■ number of golden 1tuiu:h«9
oi gt%pfi nnd viiip-lojivcs, and with all the butMn:! n-oni on )uv wcJiLug
coat- Each of thccc buttoiu 15 a joveJ of eooiidvrabb T&lue, fuhiooM
ioto tlic rorm of no animal, and set in eolil. What wiuteful proftutiMi [
and what a strange whim, to dwlicate the wedding drenei of lords toA
lftd»«s ta the service of the church !

Odc of ttio vestments wu embroidered l>y the hnnd of M&riii Tlirrcsa,
but of all the embroideries, the most woiideriul is one made ui the begia*
ning of the fourteenth ceiiturj' bv Aime Qu«cn of Bohemiji {Anna Karo-
icvmi Tahetka). She aoid her uit«r Eliiftbclh wvrc tlic two lut dtwcsd-
aots of the uici«iit priticelT hnv uf Pm*mv«l, whom Libtuwi called to tbe
tfaroDv fmm tho village uf 8tadi(i o^nr Toplitx. S^yms of our young
I&diM who think tliiit uivy have attained no mean pn^licieuey in Oic art of
embroidery, ought to come to Progue for tlic sulie uf hjokiiig fit ih«
work of tm last priitcees of tlio Iioum uf Pntvinysl. It is n piece uf white
linen, upon which are worlced, with thnsaiit of gold, tlie most boautifitl and
di-licaw tlovren and arabesques. Tlie pattern is precisely llic tuLme on ejich
siiV, imtl ivithal, to iiccurate nod yi>t s» fmicifiil, that one in novi-r tired of
admiririg it The pattern, morcovw, in cnn»tniitlv vnriod by thf^ iiircn-
tion of new ficuKs and forma, though the whol'e pieee u thirty-tlirec ella
in length. The length of way which the little needle and the dainty
Srige^r of tlio (]ii«cii muHt have tnu-od orer the linon with golden thread, in
estimated at about three Icngun, and to me it Kenis a* if tlic labour of half
a hfe must have been devoted to llie norL, which wus rsrrutvd in esih;,
and sent to the Urad>iliiii, as the parting gift, of tlie lost scion of a lung
nee of kiui;:s. •

Of religious rcUca titc church tins alao an obundani supply. Among

otltcnt, a neatly omnmented litUr liond, said to Itave belonged to one of

. tl>e little childreu killed ut Bethlehem, on the oceanon of tho mnssacri! of

[Ihe inuoL-ents ; apietroof thctAbledoUitliat served our Saviour aiidhiiidis-

I on the occoitioii uf the hut Hiijijier; and a nail taken from lite real

J and now shown in a nilendid Eetting of piirv gold. A ]ncco of

the spooLt) with which our Saviour's lips were mmsleDed when on the

CToas, and a thnm from thu reid crown of tlioros, are Kt in n cruofix,

■hk^i erueifiE, the king« of Bohrmia n.-8pcctfii]ly kiss on ihv occasion of

^their coronation. In addition to tJicse, tlierv are several relics brought by

^God&ey de Bouillon &om llie graveji of Ahrnliiiin, Iionr, and Jacob.

Id audition to the ernwn and ^nrplre, concealed in lHw aenret cabinet of

which meatian wu made sov«TtiJ pages back, there arc othor parts of the

ngalia respecting which less mystery b madct and upon wliich, nccord-

|aDgIv. I was allowed to feaic my oy«». Hum want, for inrtance, the four

[mwion ilaiuoa of tlio four aneienc Bohemian sainlj: Admlbort, Vetiseslana,

^ Vitus, and Ludmilla. These four statues are always csrried iu procesnou

belbre tbe kings on tlie occasion of their comnation. I was aJ^o showu

the nrord of state, with which the newly-crowned monarch always im-

BOMf the honour of kntsbthood upon the shoulders of a select number of

nis subjects. This sword i<) lemarlcably light. Some time ago. a little

was discoTered about halfway down tlin Mode. That it might not,

rover, W uud, Bohemia's sword of ttato liad grown raaty, the v&'eiidiag

bjnjC was cut or Bled away, and the form of a cross was (pTCU to this

34 ruBLic msTiTunoKs akd comrKirra.

Iiok thus formed. The nid hole I aav irith my own eyei ; its euue and
origin I can only give npon the uithority of my infwnunL

PUBLIC nrsTrniTioNa and comrEnrs.

The n^al library is contained in the Great College Building (CW-
legivmsgebaude) as it is called. My visit to the 100,000 Tt^umea hap-
poied on a noi§etesB holid^ afternoon. The reading-rooms that in the
morning had been occupied by the studions, were now still and untenanted,
like a deserted beehiTe. It waa an unaccustomed time for a visit to the
library, but the good-natured libnuian made an exception on my accooni^
and did not grudge the trouble to which I put hun. When the last
heavy lock closed behind us, and I was able to let my eye wander through
the long halls, I experienced that feeling of mingled awe and enjoymeQ^
which I always experience on entering a large library, where the boards
are so richly decked with the produce of human intellect. Thick walla
and stout txilts shut out the rest of the world &om us, and we wandered
like hermits in a solitude, but a solitude where nearly all the fruits of men-
tal speculation hung invitingly around ua. I thought of Ulysses in the Cy-
der's cave, exanumng the bri^t bowls fitll of rich milk, and the padcagea
of cheese and butter, and the casks of honey, all filled to tbe brim. The
diilference was, that Ulysses had been locked m by his Cyclops, whereas we
had just locked ouf our Cyclops, the great, noisy, busy, bustling world.

At a time when, according to the e:iaggeratea accounts of some,
60,000 students were assembled in Prague from all parts of Germany,*
these rooms must have literally swarmed like a beehive, but if those times
were to return again, the halls and reading-rooms of the library would stall
be found sufficiently spacious. Of the sixty-six deans who were th«i at the
head of what was called the nations, only twelve were Bohemians. Tbe
Germans were by far the moat numerous. Even then there appears to
have existed something of the jealousy that still prevails between Ger-
man and Bohemian. Huss was a sealous adherent to the Bohemiaa
party. To destroy the influence exercised by the Germans, he reeonc*
mended that in all university affairs the Bohemian nation should have two
votes, and all other nations together only one. This measure led, in
1409, to the departure of the German students, and to the rapid decHne
of the university. Thus did the pef^e of Prague strike a severe blow at
the prosperity of their city, and even in Bohemia there was at the time no
lack of Hdiciile cast upon the Bohemian party; but the incensed German
students and professors, it is still believed in Pn^ue, addressed bitter re-
monstrances to the emperor and clergy, and the vindicative charges thna
brought against Huss, are supposed to have done more in exciting the
pope and the emperor against the reformer, and to have contributed more
to brin;^ about his melancholy fate, than any apprehension that was ever
entertained on account of his doctrines.

• riii; iinMt nuxlcrntti flccuunts say ao.OOO, a. uumber «tiU itbundontly large, when
wo cii[i.''i(Icr that even at thi; presunt duy, all tlic German universities togutltcr do
not eoiitiiin a. larger number. And yet thore wltc tlifti othLT universities in Ger-
many, anil many Gernmn students went to ItrJy. Uesiiles, Germimy is at present
much mure populous, umd mnst contain a great many more i>eople tliun it (lid tlicn,
who occupy ttaemselvca with learned pursuits.

PTTBILTC WOT 1 TD TIOSS AXD COSTETTS.

llnlcM the University of Pr&gne liail at tKat tiau) morn KooV* than it
haa uon-, the nl»olv ItWu^* ran»l hnvc bpun cxhaasted ii' oiiIt eacb fluctent
flwnrniitd «""■ work at » tio)i>. Ou tlip 26tli of Jnly, IMl. the mimbor of
vohuBM was 99,888, and the catal'vpues ore so annQg«d, Unu (lie cum
totkl rn»v werj cIkv be Luown with Uw givatnt ptvoiiaii.

Alth'wi^h much thai wan interesting hu btcn removed to Vieona, there
ore still bonks in tlu- Pmjnte library quit? as w«)l d^Mninf; of d«seri(KioB
iw «uy other cunosity, oitner id th« tuivu or its riciuity. Od« oFtWnraai
curimu in, jtcrliapi, a HuMito hymn-hook, wlticli U wnttcit uid illuntinitcd
witJt nnf^dar Kptendour. The book, which must bava e«st nuiiiy thou-
aaada of florina, wm th« joint prodiictMn of a ^Mrgo portkxi of th« mbalut-
sals of Ptngiia. Every gmid and cnrponitioa of the city had « kw
liyaina wrietan, nnd pit-turcs minieii to acnioipnny ihetn, and aoveral
BoUe fimiibM Sd the iame, each fiunily or ceirpmAm crfncing tta sma or
cie«t before it» own portion of th« book. In otoet of tiw othar dCMB of
IMiemia similar hvmn-hooks were campoil^d during die aacendanoy of
Vtraqikiata, and 1 iloubt whathrr of all the Climtion aeeta that hnvit at
Taiious timM protested ajifamat tlia popr, thnv ever wa> one that produced
liTiRQ-booka of Boch aurpaaiag ipteDdour. AU the pictiura in tbrf of
rnoiiB an ti£ ft Mipaior ordor, and eiecutcd in a inaai«riy tlyie. Modt
of n«iD rcprcMot niddanta from biblical history, or from the lifit of Hum,
as for instance, his dispute with a popiih pripAt, and his death at the stake.
Bloated priests and looiiks, pope and emperor, ai? represented grouped
uouimI the funeral pile of Hnu, whnm angels ore comfortinff in his af^ny.

Poor Ilun raisi^j a Aninc in which he himaeU' nas hiimt, an well aa
many that came aft«-r him, but fmii) that flams posterity luu dorived
iMilfici lifht nor warmth. Tlie history of the r**''*''M" of Bohaima is ft
oftddar ome thaa that of any otiier relig^iona aed, for bo doeCriae ev«T mada
its way amid acta orgmiU^r linlt^noe, uiid tion« waa ercr annibilBted by a
monmtlileM reaetioD. Lulheramiim vr«A abo cmllod amid finufiil rtormti^
but t)Mt tempest* have spent themselves, and mJllioRs hare become peace-
ful parttcipators in tlte hleannga at whirh Lutlieranism aimed. The
IJuantJ-ii mised a mighty eoaflajg>Tatiofi, of which the Autrians sttNtedad
in tre&diiif^ out the last spark; the Ltitherani lighted a roaring Rre on
Ifamr own hearths, and their bomee, in spate of pope and emperor, Imvc been
wanned by its ^niol luHuenoe erar sinreL Yet Hius, despita of his
herosy, liva in the aAcctioos of his ommtiymen. I hava often ohsorved
in them n strange strun^gle, on this eoore, between relif:u>ii and nationality.
As Bohemians, thev )ove lo take credit for all the irreat thinga that the
Hunites did, thnugh tu Catholie* they cannot, of eoorac, apjtrove of them.

L'traquiiai preccilnl the art of pnatin;;, hci»ca the praliiM nduniwmt
of the hrmn-booki J have deM-ribcd. The rinssilps aherwards caiiv^) a
Boltiteaa of boohs to be pnnted in llr>t)oinf3, nnd when this eoakl n<>
loiipvT be dene in the comotry itaolf, their bibles were printed alwoaJ,
ill Venice, tor instancr. whow nrintln^preMeit in the sixtemth aiid
Mvanteea eenturies, were at the diii|Kuial afalmi>st every religious sect.
]& tlio Pnifiue libntry are xrrcml bibles in t)ie B>>hrnuuii laoguare, thaC
were pTiuti.-d at Venice. In one of the Year loOS, 1» a pirtute of hell, in
which the ilevil is treading down a wliole host of ntonlu aiul popes; to
tUi aoma seolous commentator has affixed a ittaniurHpt annotatioD, to
•nfbrm ua that the picture lopresenta " Pope JnliiM 1 1, in Hell."

Hw bsst bible, however, in the Tuliekbian language was of a moch

36 PUBLIC IKSTITUnOKS AND CONTENTS.

later' date (1579—1593) when a Moran&n nobleman called together a
number of learned Bohemian! to his castle of Kralitz, where the sacred
volume was tmuslated anew from the original text. This trsiulatioa i»
B&id to be the best : the Bohemians even muntain its superiority to any
translation that has ever appeared in any language, a point wluch very
few scholars are in a condition to dispute. This translatioa is known
under the title of BUilia Czeska Braterska (t. e. the Tshekhian Broths
Bible), and is still occamonally printed at Berlin for the use of the Mon-
Tian brethren.

In the Prague library I found a copy of the first book ever nrinted in
Bohemia. Its date is 1462. These old Bohemian books are well printed,
and upon solid lasting paper, like our old German and Duteh editions,
which look nothing the worse for the three or four centuries that have passed
over their heads. Our modem paper is mere tinder in comparison. I took
up a new book that had come from the binder's only a fen davs before, and
while I was turning over the leaves several of the comers broke off. If
we go on improving the manufacture of our paper, as we have done of late
Tears, there will be nothing left in our public libraries, five hundred years
hence, but tlie solid old iucunabulse and parchment manuscripts.

In the halls of the hbraiy may be seen the portraits of several Jesuits of
Prague, and of other distmgmahed men. Among them are Compioniis,
the Jesuit, who was executed in England under Elizabeth, and Colhn, the
friend of the last PaltLlogus, who was burnt in Rome by order of the
inquisition. There is also a picture of Georg Plachy, who, at the head of
the students of Prague, defended the city bridge so gloriously against the
Swedes. The most interesting^ of all tliese worthies, to me, was a marble
bust of Moiart, the greatest musical genius that Germany ever produced.
Thb bust stands in a room, the shelves of which are filled only witli the
works of the great master.

Mozart is one of the very few Germans for whom even the Bohemian
patriots express their respect without any arriere pensie; but then they
usually remind you, that though Mozart was born iu Germany, they con-
sider him to have been a Bohemian in all but the place of liis birth. In the
first place, they will tell you, he wrote all his best works, his " Don Juan,"
" Figaro," and a few otliers, in Prague, in tlie atmosphere of Bohemian
song. Then they will add that nowhere out of Bohemia is Mozart pro-
perly understood. In Vienna the people were at first quite unable to
estimate him, and Mozart himself, they will assure you, would often say,
that he had nowhere been comprehended but in Prap^e. " My father,"
said a Bohemian once to me, " was one day looking for Mozart's grave in
the cemetery at Vieinia, but the gravediffger was a long time beforo he
could make out whom my father meant by the divine Mozart. At length
the man suddenly cried out, ' Oil, jwrhaps your honour means the
musician that was drowneil '.' " I thought the anecdote much more charac-
teristic of the place where- it wan told me, tiiaii of that to which it referred.

The Buliemians in thus daiming -Mozai t bccnuse he live<I ammiK them,
reverse the conduct of the Poles, who would nib us even of Coperni-
cus, iK-cause lie was was Iwrninadtv-iibji.-irt tn Poland, though his parents
were Germans, tltougli he recfiwd a Gcnnaii oilucatioii, and resided the
groneiT jinrt of lii;i lil'i; in ficnnany. Th'- .Siavniiians arc apt to appro-
priate (;v.rj- German who (ioim;* ammi;^ tli'.-ai, and assiiu'latei liimst-lf to
their sjiirit. O.i the oilier iiaud, hrjwevi-r, »■; are cftin disposed to look

PITBLIC IXSTITUnOX* ASD COXVESTB.

Dpon man^ a, Slaronua author as a Germo-n, merely because he liu cltotea
tuo Gttrman lan^^agc na tbe vehidv for giving Iiin idciu to the wurld, in
the MfliB wfty timt mniiy a Gernutn, bccau«« h& liajipcnccl to writv ia
Frvncli, b aUnys art down iti France for a Prmchmati. We ofleii look
u|)on nil the Western SlaToninns us so many Germaiu, perlinjH l)vuiu»
we consider that thow countries one thdr oducatioa nnd cnlif^Ut^nmrat to
G«nnany, but tlio Slavotiiuu tlicniselvca arv muclt more ciact tn these
mattcn. For iusuncr, licfore I cnnic to B<tli«iniA I never dresml of
looking on Hiua but as a Gmnan. In Bolieitiia I M'as soon cflireotMl aii
this [M'int, and Icanit that Hue* (the h miist be proaouiit<c-(l with a stronf
^tt^Tiil iiitonivtioD ) i:i a genuine T»hekhian [di-biaii [lalront-iiiic, ana
in««ii5 neither more iiur ]«M (hao t/ooxe, HuKt himself was boru in a
Tthcktiiaii villag«t nnd vta tho*nn of Slnvoninii ]>e:ii'3tit<, and !u |<fOf>or*
lion tii I bcranie aojuainted more iDtimatcly with hia hisbny, iintou^ his
natirv hilltf, 1 was inadft gradually aware that the lIuMitti wars were not
merely religiont wars, but were in reality, a ttnifr^Io on thp part of thft
Bobeniiaas to shake off the dotaiaation ca the Corman! i the cuiperor uiid
hb |irie*t« wen) hateful nither us foreign mien titan on accouut uf their
theolouical srron.

If I atn not mistaken, I have beard it aaserttd ot Ptague that the first
inventor of gun|>owder wat likewise a Bolieiuian ; that wc owe the art of
pnnttag, not t^i a Gcnnaii, but to u Slavonian of lloliemia, hta lately been
rvpciklcdiy maiiitaitK^d, n:ul inftny imafipnt-' they Imve demon itratcff it in
the most incontrovertible nianiier. Ttif H«>hi;Tiiiaji vti-siim of the stoi^- is
this. There lived in tlie early pitrt of the tifl<n'iith rcritiin,-, in a It'iht^niian
town cull^ Gattcuberi;, or kuttenbiTe, n man r>f th? name of Joseph
Tnha.itni. [Ie was a ieunied man, aiid after the failiiioii of tlie learned
inen of his time, he tnini>>1iitod hiii n<tltt^iiiiaii name into Ijitin, and rnlM
llimaelf Faiutua, for tsAtisOti is thu Tnhrkliinn wiird fur happt/. At the
tAm« time, aecordinff to a practice that also then pir^-ailed among learned
men, he added to his own name that of the p):icc of hia birth, aixl called
hiuisoif Jouuneo Fauctus Kuttvnhorgimuit. In 1421, about tlw eunnnviiee'
meat of tbe Uiusite war«i be was driven from hit country, and arriv«Hl 04
B (ii^tive at Strasbar^ wfaerc he dropped tbe name of Faustus, and called
bimielf simply Johann OutUoberg. Titere is an aDcioni maimneript. \o
which rpfoiencn is niad« in support of thi« elaim. and in whieh the followinfj
sentence occurs : — " Pottea^am artcm librQrum imprimrnihrum intern
Joannes KulleiibtT^ifuis tinrmtts, patria KHUeRbergeHsii. prius
Joantif* I''austua ftominatHs, r/ui cr>*vi aiiHnm 1421, Mta fftunliea
fugUm \H Gcr/naniam al/tU •Stnift^uri/t t« Kvttc»f>rri/iv>n a fintria {cx
mom rjut irmporis et simul utpatriain luam itb iuoeittioHc 'J'j/pvffrap/iiae
commendartt) opprliavit,"

Tlw house is sUll thown in F^«gue !n which thb Mr. Faurtu* u aaid to
have lived. He miut have bc«n in comfortable ciruuin stances, for tlw
faoiiKR is a large one, and has since been fitted up for the rvcvptiua of a
public institution, that of tbe iJcnf and Dumb School, w)itd> I vtMted,
Jianly for Faunlus's *nkc, and piu-lly for the sake of the pupils iustnictcd
tbtm. There were foityone pupils residing in ilie houae, besides twelve
cliitdron who e»m« nierelT as dar scbolors. Verj- (wr among iheni. I
found, went- conijilntely dieaf. Tlie smiiid of tbe German u (like the
£ngli»h ao in proof) they could always di^tinj^tNli, and when we spoke
wy slowly and dirtinetly, the cUldieti could underMaud the greater part

M TUBUC INSTITUTIOire AXD CONTESTa.

«f «fau we eud, by closely obeerring the movemeot of oar lipi ; bat, of
ensrae, ihey imderatand tneir own language of ngna loiiob more fluently.
Mtuj of loeir ngns were of thnr own invention. The sign for God and
hesven was alwftys Kccmnpanied by a pious look upwird. I tried to teD
tbiu aomething about a tower, and in doing ao, ^adesvonred to imitate
ilic ngn which the teacher had taught me aa representine the word ; but
I uw evidently that they mi^undeTstood me, and when the teacher came
to my aaaiBtance, it turned out that they liad imagined I was telling tbem
wmetliing about the l>ope, whom they picture to thenuelves as ft lund of
monJ tower lising far above the rest of humau kind.

One of the most important public institutions of Prague is the lunate
uylmn, which, though it may not "fiilfil all that, at the preseut day, ii ex-
pected from such an establishment," as one of the physicians belonging to
the house exnresaes himself, must yet be considered among the best of its
kind, as I think my readers will themselves he ready to infer from the
particulars I am about to relate of it.

The average number of patients yearly received into the house is lOCV
of whom about one half are dismissed cured. The number of patients
usuaUy in the hospital is 190. The gardens arc handsome end spacious,
and distiibuted into different sections for the several gradations of mad-
ness. Those who are not considered dangerous meet every Sunday in the
principal garden, on which occasion, a band of music is always provided.
The labour in the kitchen gardens is always performed by tlie patient^
and beyond these gardens there am some fields of considerable extent^
which are ploughed, sown, and reaped by the inmates of the house. A
pitce of hop-ground even is attached to the establishment, that those
patients who come from the circle of Bunzlau, where tliis specioa of culti-
vation prevails to a great extent, may find themaelves engaged in tbeir
accustomed occupation. Constant occupation is looked upon as contributing
mere than any other means to a cure. We saw no less than forty or fift^
poor lunatics engaged in mowing, digging, weeding, watering, plaa^
jng, &c.

With the exception of the straight-jacket, no species of corporal punish-
ment is ever resorted to. Nearly all the work in the interior of tlie house
is likewise performed by the patients, — such as cleaning the rooms, making
the beds, chopping wood, cooking, carryuig water, and the like. For my
own part, I experienced sincere satisfaction, as I wandered about amoug
the busy multitude, and thought of the principles by which such institu-
tions were governed only 30 or 40 years ago, of the scenes which
were then doily witnessed there, of human Wngs laden with chains,
or strapped to bencliea, and frequently scourged with revolting cruelty.
A lunatic asylum in th<>pe days was a place in which madmen were shut
up that they might not inconvenience the rest of the world, now tlie ob-
jett kept in view is to restore them to society.

It is characteristic of inusic-Ioving Bohemia, that in the lunatic asyluni
of its capital, music xhoiild l)e considered one of the chief instruments for
^e improvement of the jtatieiits. In addition to the garden concerts, ia
which all as-sbt who can, there are ipuirtettos every morning and evening
in the wnrds, and a musical diro(;tor ia appuinted tor tlie express purjxise
of EU{>eriii tending this part of the domeatic arrangements.

Among the patients there was none who excited my interest more than
a gentleman of the name of tiiiiher, an accuiuplistuid scholar, who ba^j

PCBLIC iXfiTlTtJTKW S AKB CONTESTS.

jtmt tnmc t)m« ni the East, had wnttcn aeieral worits of adcuowtcd^ml
■inciit. and liad, at (»>e tiuie, been looked upon <M a man uT grwit iintval
aUiUM, u well nt «r wiad Mtjuuiinuralt. On first fioteriug the Iioubo^
lie continued for socno titoa to <Uvota himMif to his McusbxiMd avocntioait
Wi cnduallr be ft^lt iuLa a hroodiog melancliolv, aod tlu-ticu into a i>tat«
of suUeD inaaaeia wlieui% no man had i^eu al>l« to roaie him. I kiiw htin
lying ia hU bftd, quiti^ motion l>-:u, and lui eye* cloned, and hia ni-nu trotted
ovci his bmul, more like h >Utluc nil a tomb than a human being. In
tliiM poaitjon, I was told, he lay almoct always, do word ever iuuin^ &on
liii; lips. Kb firiiHvds ooeasioQally visit him and wi>«p around bis b«d, fant
hfl eeenu unoousooti* of dieir prcacoo c . 1 wu aftvrvranb tonj to hmr
that ih'm gnnclvmau's prvscnoc in the madhouse stood in tomr couocxion
with hi< ptililical opiuiou?, nbirh hv had, p<?rliape, had the impniderice ta
I<rnclaim wnuewhat too Ireely.*

1 wna allowed to aee Uie fiats of the patiente treated during 3en:ful pTe«
ceding jrwan, from which 1 dcdaotad two or tfarat* f tatittical iiifcsvnoM tliaC
niay not be without vulitc wlion oompaicd with ttifr results obtained at other
nutbliahmnits of a similar diarocter. Amonj^ £ 1 7 patientsr I fouiiil then
had been 206 wani«i and 31 1 infii ; to that tba ineii were ui i)h- yntfot'
tion to tbo women of mora than three to two. WivIIim^): itornunl in some
BKafnTD to bo a preeorvatiro agiuimt nadneos, for of the oli patients, 298
bod been UQtnarrii^, aiid 224 liwl hei<n in the holy estate ; the proportion,
tberttore, of lh» »iiigl<> to tliv wuddml patients hail been at 4 to 3. The
raiddte ftafr« of life would appcv to be inoit liable to attacks of tiiMntty,

* Tliii ezprc«Blcin nilnlil Iciul Mr. Kohl'* reailera to suppose the oricnuJIfl Bitter
to bave beua a pcdtikal TicUm of the Annrlaa uionmnMUti wbcteai. In pntni o€
Cki, duriair hb Mwr in Farla, In 1830, be maaifbitcd ntcb evUcut njinptcuu of
iunnitjr, a* left lib MMwla little bopv of boinffablc to pnaerrc him l« aoriM; mnda
kiagcr. Franelt WlDtam SielKr wi« bom at1pra(!u<^ ui 1 785. At Ills own vx|ien«
be UaveUcil. in 18i;. br the way of Vienna and IMetle. to the iVivhip^ln^nt whefB
be aiate Uie UIbjuI of Ciuulia ttie imniedlate ulgect of bb leKaTcliei, Mid ooUmImI
natttlidi for ■ vuih irkidi be paUUied iu litVt, uiiilt^r tlie tiile at Rate nacA da-
Jmtd Krtia, whidi b BaoMnpanitxl bj a nuiiil)ii of valuable caKniTtiu{it i-ux-utud
bwa liU uirn ilnwiwa In ISIS bv vuil«d £g^|i(, uccwied tin Nik I'l Tltubta,
awl afttrwanl* u»t«]M throogh PhImUhc and S/ria, and daring tbi* journey Ma
«dlcetfa»B «KK ao eiUiMiva and ralnaUe, thai, wuen on liic retain tb^ were caU-
bUeil ia Viesna, the puUic refnaed for a lemg tiaiie ta beUeve Uuu one man eoaU
ban) gjllaclol ao much hi «u aburt a ttinc His odli-clinii uT RK}T^i'>'> aatiquiliea
WW afterward purchawd by ilu: AcndL-ni; of r^-iniin tii Mtinicli. In IS33, tiietaer
aScdftiMD Maririllw on a Toyage rocud tbt- vnrld, durioKirhicli be twU-'I ibc Uc
«r FrNaca, t&e Ca)ie ef Good Hope, New llolUnil, N«w TculKTid, Cape liom. awl
■rHTod in LnndiM in JbI^, IteiA. Hit cciUootiniu in tbe tUrpaKment of aatnral
liiMary, during thii ruj-ajjc, «)>ni iuitiini(liin{:t<r i-jtwiiitr, and mre yriiitiiimi to the
pulitic in Drmlcn ia 18V4. 11itix< .ttrv-mlj' niiiqiumui of in«uilty hettan to auuIfaeB
thcmKlnaL lie was bauntod bjr n brllvl' ihnt an cmini.'i)t Auttriiui itatminui aimed
at hta fifr. and Ais iietkn contlHncd lo i-nirrDM biin rDorc and more, lie imudned
be had ifisoDTared en areainun fvr tb^' cure of hjHlropbobta, and afftnd t« aeU hia
ARrrI to tb« EBqMwr <if Aiulrin fur a Wiri kuiii of inaiu.-y. KvtUutf t)ie Aoatriaa,
h o wi j i w, nor aaj othrr gonimnKnt niantfMtffl ■ wUlingDeat (« pa^ giaber'* prU.'^
wWch iadoood bha to go to I'arin. whrro in IMO ho pubUahea a fYHpncm <fiw
■ww w tf U tmi lU fa aaaiw, a wwk whkh betraTi In ffrviy jv^ rafflriml imnT d
the ndnnchotr coadfllon Into wUcb It* ambw bad tunk, to mj nnlfainz o( tlic r^
nukriixblo fllg^twre ailxed to tbe book; " /Vomum GuilLtmt S-rhr, It pin* ^ramd
ml J- aKnuJ*^ it l^tf 'if FAm^m." Amuog liU otbi-r woiks aiajr he lociiUanKd
tlMroOowiog: On Ihi.- lladioal Cdty of l]}dn>[itu>)>in, Mnnidt, HUli On ttic Mum-
Of ECTPtt tbelr Origlt^ Ol^cct. fitc, Vienna, llS«i A Journey from Cairo 10
' !BiidbBGk,Pnigue, lUSw— TV.

(•t Hl.ir INMTITUTIONS AND CONTESTS.

t' htiit>iti<« tlivro ^^^ ^^^ '" ^^o^ mental alienation liadma-

'"- ' ^'.J'tl'U'l'""'" *'»» "^^ °^^° '"^^'^- , , ,, «, .

i„», -..« '" ^^^^^^^^ i^j^ jj^ beeniervants md day labourerB. Of agn-

^^ 'i*'i t Mn't" Vii'l (fordene" tliere were only 4. Among the 206
,,,\ ■ » ■« * i^^i |^^_^^ I J gemprtreases. Among tne men, I oUo observed,
XV ^.. ■« * 'V"|,|,, fm-t, ^at there had been 8 schoohnaaters, or 2^ per cent, of

**^ t1 ri.Uinl ■"'''*"'' "' comparatively speaking, unimportant, affording ao-
" I ii 111 bt <»"Iv sixteen children, and remarkable only on account of

l*iHi'l«K'" tlK-mselTes for the charitable office of tending the sick. These
r*" 1iiiIm"< ■'" ^''cir return, with a French abbess at their head, founded
\\'\ in«lttiitioii. to which has already been added, an asylum for the dck
... I J, I H'liich I found twenty-eiglit patients. It is generally said that
I .j,.)( lire much better tended by these ladies, who devote themselves
111 lb" t'ause from a motive of religious zeal, tliaii by hired nurses who coa
■iililoMi Ix^ influenced except by the fear of losing their places. We visited
.),„ |''n!i>ch abbess, and found in her a stirring, bustling lady. She was
writing at her table when we entered, and left her papers and account
ImhiUh to receive ua. She told us we must Imik upon the institution as
(inly in i^ infancy, but that it would gradually grow and become more
uxtcnsive. I asked her whether she felt herself comfortable in a fordgn
country. At first, she answered, she had pined after home, and one
ilay, 03 she was sitting alone in her room, brooding over the many
inconveniences of a foreign residence, somebody knocked at her door.
An elderly gentlenuui camo in, who introduced himself as a landed
proprietor, and began to inquire after the cireumstanccs and prospects of
the institution. " Ma ch&re m&rc," he said, "you are a stranger here^
and must have many difficulties to contend with. Your undertaking ii
BtiU a young one, but it deserves universal sj-mpathy. Allow me to hand
you this parcel as a trifling contribution to the comforts of those under
your charge." Before she could thank him, the stranger was gone, and
nad left a package containing a considerable sum of money in her hands.
About three years afterwards she received a letter from a Prince L., who
expressed a wish to establish a branch institution for the poor blind at
Melnik. After some preliminary correspondence, slie proceeded to Mel-
nik, to superintend tiic fonnation of the new asylum, when in Prince L.
she discovered the benevolent stranger, wlio had contributed so much by
his benevolence, to dissipate the melancholy of the early part of Iier resi-
dence in Prague.

She told mo she often received visits from Protestants, like myself, out
of Northern Germany, on which occasion she always enjoyed, ni secret,
the timid embarrassment with which they entered a conventual house,
their ininds evidently full of prejudice and wicked thoughts. She never
allowed herself, she said, to be at all put out of lior way by this, but spoke
with them unreservedly, and seldom failed to have t!ic pleasure of observ-
ing that her guests were gradually inspired with confidence, and departed
with better thoughts tlian those with which tlw^y came. And I must own,
it went so, in some measure, with me. Some at the Protestant scales fell
from my eyes, when two of the sisters entered tlie room and presented

FCBLic isrrmmoira and convents. 41

thenudvn tn nic, not as pal«, withered, faollow-cved nun*, biit act!rr,
boalthy, bmnf boosekeepera. One nf lliem, in i)iirtipuliir, -wm full i>f life
[and bufttl«, ai she $timM about in tli« kitclien amoDg th& helple«4 inmatM
of the hmuc. SIic could hardlv be said to have retired from tlio wcrld,
she Slid, for slio nue early, and was liard a.c work all i\ay lonff.

The order of tlie ^Icn and Brothers of Jlercy— llie grey, the brmrn,
tlic black, tlui grtvo, the blui.-, and tb« nd — Rll sa import&nt a blank in
the lystcDi i<F public cluuily in Catholic (nuntries, that erei^ one must
wish for lluur coattnimnue until a better or^nisation ia nibnitnted. In
ttrikio^ oontntst. however, with thete, is au order timt ha« not known to
ircll liovr tn combine tlie iaiora with llie ont, tind wiu thurefon abolished
by Joci^pb II. as me lent, but has bean rt^'tiirvci miic« his death : 1 nllude to
Vat order of Caitnclit* nonfi, who elaim for their fistcrhond the distinetioti
of being more ancient than any other in Cbrt^tentlom, Mary, Anne,
Magdalen, and all the other holy women of the N«n Tr*tniiietit, )i»vtti[^
bdOTigvd to it. Tlu- CflmielitA moiikj luwei-t Ihal tht-ir ordt'r was nri^unltv
I Ibunded by the Fi»i)heC Ehns ou ^fvuiit Cannel. in rale^tine, and that all
tiie pn>|)beu and holy men, from Elins to ClirisI, had Ijelimped to rlie nriler.
In tliD proud fcehn^ of a piety eniK)bl4>d by iiuch tinunqiajtti-d fuitirpiity,
sod by their connexion with »o many tainU and prophets, the Cannelitct
seclude theinsclros witli greater strictness than any other order from the

trofime world; subject themselcea to seTerer rule*, and hold themnelves to
e «nlarely dispensed 5«m the duty of doing any tlung for the benefit at
tbe rest of thtnr fvUow-creaturea. Joft^h 1 1. rio«c<l tlie conrcnts beluiigiag
to tlus order in Prague and in other paitx of his driminioim, aiid sent th«
Carmelite nana back into the world. The nuns, however, even afW
Ittavioj; tht^ir conventSt continued* M well as tbey could, to observe the rulc4
of their order, lodged generally two or three together, held little or no
intcreourte with the world, and lived am alms antl on the work of Uieir
hunds. H'hen the Emperor Leopold bo*nI tlus, he was moved by tb« lal^
and made over la them tho Bamalnte convent on itie IlrwlHliin, where
the Camietite mini have immured thenuelvet, and ithut out the re«t of tlw
world aceurdin;; to their ancient fMhion.

ThrK Carmelite nuns urrcr allow any hut the meagrest food to pass tlicir
lipi; they pray night and day, and sleep but little. They never sleep no
any other bed but naked boards, and llirar only pillow is a stone. They
WL-Ar a luur-clotli ganncat next the skin, aud somirtirnvs an iron chain,
by way of girdle, with sharp prongs that ran into their flesh. Into tlie
interior of tlieir convent no living ereitturo of the male sex is allowed to
nenetmt^}, and yet there are amonir them many delivate and young gir)^-
Sueb was the ai-count I generally Ta-anI of thrm at Prague, logt-thin' with
ft multitude of man-etlnns and myst«rious particulars. My ciirioKily was^
Iherefbce. excited, and I determined to penetrate, as far as 1 eould, into tli«
niyHttirious reoesAM of the community, and to obtain for myself soma
authinitic information on the subject. It was a monk nf the convent of
Str«boff who lent me his aid ana advice. He deacribad to me u door of
the nunnery where I might knock, and to the woman who came tu inquiro
what I wanted, he bade me nay, I was a stranger who wished to seo (he holy
Mary EJmUl Tliis bcAy Alary Electa, it smms, is the wvak point of the
Cfmatk*!, who are very proud of having her amoDg them, and Mldont
reftee a stranger the fcwmr of paving Ins devotions to her. " Bat. re-
verend father, ' 1 rcplietl, " 1 am a l^testaut, so I hope I shall not be

«s

PUBLIC IKfeTITCriOK* AND CONVEXTg.

talM on to kiM tlw Wndb or feet 'of (be Hint, or to alfect b> fr*v at ber

■farnM." " Vnii will bo iwked no qucatioa* ehoul your roUf^ion ; out an I
leQ you, thpro m no olltcr way bv which jou can notain aJmitlAnee.'*

I went ucoidiiigly, fouad the door to vbich I IumI bnn i)itvrU.tl, «nd
knocked. The lloor wu owned, and id a Mliall wttibiOe I nw an elderly
WMBAn, who btJoiiged to toe <loinG«tu tUmduilB of the eoovvat, and who
wAai mv wliat a WM 1 VBi)tcd> i niplied, la I bad b«cu tauglili that I
wu ft itraoger, uad wubed to arc tho Holy MoUmtt, Maria Elrcta>

In tha mil, opip03il« to the door, wua a nmall opMnnff, and in tMa
opdunf; was a kiud oi' piT|)viiilicular valre, that tuni«d rMrou, and (hrou^
wlacfa atiiall niaU<-r4 nii>;-lii: Ix- paMed m and out, nt liic cmn-nt. Hrir the
■ttetulant kitockt-i], aiid tliortJy aftcrwanla, a low roicv nrso lii-anl to tn-
^uirv w)int was wantod. " It n a ttraiicr^r, ven«rahb> BatM. who <iri«h(<4 (a
•M our Holy Motiier, Maria Bl«cta, and reijnetita the JtevH oS tlic cliapcl."
" Ywt, yea," waa tiut nt|dy> aiid in a tew miimtm a liaavy bunch »f keys fdl
into ODA of the «f>n)piiTtmenta of llta poTfMmdicular vtilW; th<^ old woman
"miio acted as my guide ti>ok the ke)'a, aud w« proceeded to ilic chapcL 1
saw nochin^ very reaiarkaMe in t)i« eliafiel o«i entering, except an iran.
railiu^ lu-iu cho attar, belund which railinir aonie bbek otgect a|ipL-aped to
be inorinfT ah^ut. " What is that i" 1 naked. " Boluiid that railing,'^
answrrt'd niy ^de. ''tit* our Mollicrr. Maria Hlecta.and one of our vt.'ncirabltt
sitJterB is uow opening llic shrine, that ym may see it the better. Wait
Lere a monMnt, and — " But 1 did not wait. On tbe contrary, I haatenad
Bp to tbc xailinf^, wbicli eonsisted of thick troii bar»i and in the gtoook
behind tbetn, 1 «w a mm cloaely Teiled, who irn« kneftin^ brfnra an oU^
brown, dried up mummy, kiannj^ ita IutkLi and ft'et, and repeating MM
|mycr alWr aiiotber. Tne nunuiLv waa tbe Maria Klvcta whom 1 waa aup-
posed to hare ctma« m search of. abeaat upon a rii-ltly oniATn«iit«<l tlironc^
and was adomod with a nrofusioti of Uee and tiiieel. Slie wae ssimtindod
by a glass ca«e, which tne nnu bad o|)en«d, that I tnight see the better.
'Ibx Holy riater had bei-Ti Kiitu-wluit long orer ber witrk, or 1 had been
somewhat quick, but at all <-v<tit« t found, in itf>ito of the tewitt rulv* of
the Carm«lJt« ord<-r. tluit it wan very {toutble for a yoting nian t4> ttnd hitn-
Bclf t^lc-a-U'tc nitli n nan, and to caiirereo witb her with even Ii2sj reterra
tban is often impoHil by tlie etiquette of tlie great world.

" Eveuse me, venemhle RiMer," said 1, oddrMciug her; " is that tlw
Uana EU-U?"

" Pniisf be to Jesu^ Chnst '" she replied, after a few monteiili. sad after
■he liad completed her presenhed tiumlier of kiwes and jirayen ; " Y€%
tbu is our dear, holy, rocnnl Jlotbcr. >laria Electa !"

Tito nun wa» now itAudicg upright before mr, and tbougli siie was
VTSuped iti a thick woollen earment, and her face was ooT<ered with a doaa
blaui woollen veil, yet her lonu appeared to me ha]idw>iiu; mid gracsAtL
Her Twee was remariinlily aoft; lEideed. she scem«d 1» Inrathv and lisf^
rather than to Kpeak. This tnu at tinit pleasing, till 1 iifuirwardt nhwerved
that all tJie Ciirnu-litiM linvc the aaoie soft, lisping, melting voire, with C
load of sentiaieatBl wbuie while speaking, ibu el£ict of a uubit aiH^uirel
ftom tlteir eonilaiit praying.

In thic softly hniathifig vmtvi tite nun Lnld m« lli« whole history flf
Maria Electa. " She was the princi|)al of our order two hundred yeara
agOt and her pious :md holy life will m-ver allow ili to forget her. I leaven
iiBS aiiraculoualy p i«Mrvvd for ua her chtiri^ied fi'sut^ which eoutiuuea ub>

PUBLIC IHSTITCTiaSS AND COXTEST8.

i>am^itv(l. SIm ia jttst » Ae vu vheo Itvin^. H» hands, snm, nnd
finfi^n sro still i^iiiti? pliant. Oiu* holy Tfltlwr tli« Pope will therefoTD j>to-
imhhf caoonUe ItKr, wnicJi Ina not ^'ei been ilanR.
" Ynu wub that lie Kliould Ao m, I *ii]ipo»e ?"

''Oh eoTttiiilj', m wieh it von- nwh ; tnd tnd*rd the buannc bag d-
reody bovn takcu io band. Sbuuld we succeed it vovM ho to tl>e hoooar
ud to tiir profit of our conveiiL Wv hat-e printed tbc hiitory of Muu,
and I »'ill ffivo yoii n cmpy of the boolt."

With tiiftt slw handi-d mc a little book, whidi I snaocsod witli nnw
4i(licttl^ hetwccu the bw. and oWn-cd at tlie Eame time tJiat hrr Wamd.
w*B cx(]ai>it«ly white mad delicate. My imairiuatinu icomedintely {netured
to me a countooMKC eqtallv pl«a«inft, and in honnony with the softtMM
•lid midmly of tier vmoc I W^n to ralstc of the other saicts and cfatinliM
thnt [ liad Be«i, and of my own erratic manner of life. She luietied to ma
with cvidont interest, and ] indulged Iter the inor« willingly, that 1 mi^^
httv a riglir, in my toru, to qucstiuu \kt ii little aLvut her cuftomary wiiy
af living.

" Oh, our Gfe," Raid lUe, " is ^^lorioua, ibr it ia devoted to pnyinp to

God. I hav« bMu hem now for fii-e yean. I wu born in Styria, oud

vbrn I dec'lawtl mv d<rtvniiinHti<in to viitcr » coonnt, my pamitti wiving

me to chuoxe onp oi Uib kea severe orders. Btit I {ircfemxl tlie Cannelitcs

to every other, for only those who renonnc* tlie nnrld ollof^'ctlier can b^

L Joog altoj^etbfr to llcaveit. 1 n-aiiily aiibmitltd to the strict no\ieiate of

[^BVe ypaiv, to wliich all must kulmiit who ivisli lo he reoeicMl bj ai^tera of

' Our onler. ilorini; thi* time wo muit ]in« ihmujfh seveml nrdcnlii, one

• of whtdi ia to ahftain for a w holo year Cram all i iicccb, buyv to Uod aocl

bii Munt«. Kvva our asten, durinp tius yvMr, spiaik to u only by 'Ri^

Laiu] tliat asfivldomaspostifale. Tbose vfao, during* tfaeae three years, mtre

] pat eonttantly inaiiii<Mt«d a joyful devotion to their seven ta^k, are not

veoeiTed into the order. Thmc who, before tlie oxniration of tlie tnn«, fed

their naahition fail dipm, tnny retire, for wc wisli to have ntnw far our

■ifiten bm such as freelv and teAlotulv long to renounce the world, that

they may devoto tltern«elv«9 to praytrr, and to a nommuuan witli the sainta.

: ]Nor is any allowed to Inha tho vow* Iwfnre her 2-lth year, for when the

I Tuwa have onee bom taken, all iwtum to the worid U imjHMaible.'*

From these pn^mieea, I calculated the i^ of my iiiK>rmaut to bo under

ihiity. A |)rotty *gti* thought I, and a marvellouiily long way off from

pifaat total benumbiii^ of tlie tleMli, -which I ohwrved in tho third jM-Tsonage

no oar iotervtew, the ^tothcr Electa, who at rathroocd in hvr giaat caM>

13 inqnimd whetlier there weie any titmcea at present in the boose

** Vea, four : and there ore nstcnt Muten of us."

Siztven marrcUouA, ToniantM, and very melaacboly pcrrersioD* of mind*
lliougbt I ; a f^atc of thinf^ of whose existence, at tJiis time of day, many
'onr cold Nordtems will tind it hard to fonn a very clear conrnptiou.
" As siatars too,~ A« resunocd, " we lerwt a life of constant H'lf-ihmtalr
■Qeh aa to yon, do doubt, will seem tcjt liard. Ko-cn hi>un a day ne io-
variaUy Mjinid in piny«r, beside* which, on certaiu holidays, ne have
|my«nt and masses Io eliaunt at midnight. Uimnr^ ilia day we sehton
<p««k to one anotfacr> and <mlv in the morniug and evcunn^ we Iiavc ons
hour of iwreatioti. Durbg tfiese two ho«n are vi»it each other, and con-
vene togvtfaer. Wa make and mend our own clothes, and attend to other

PUBLIC nfSTITCTIONB AKD CON'VEXTS.

ymrlt in tli» counnt, auiUmvonriiig to do as inucli of it aa poniblo with our
own Iiaods."

" In it tnie," I uke<l, " that yon wear nothing liul thi« coane garment
of woolnr liur?"

'* This is the only ganncnt ■n^ wtar, and our food 'a equally »iinpl«*]
Meat we never touch, but onlv vcjjttnblca, and fiah, drei>5fHl either with oil
or hutt«r, and water is our only driuk ; but vre are cheerful and eanteDied,
mud it ti«vep occurs to m to covet any thinf{ Ix^yoiid tliat. \Vc *li>*p on
Btrair, Bud n sack oF otraw errvrs iia for a pillow. Some of u^ honoveri]
imtpose. at tiIIlv^ additional hanlshitu on thetuM-lves. Thcv will sWp, iatj
itiAtano4>, on the naked boards, or noil save a portion of their acaucv mcabp'
and mill it out to th« poor iu the world, vi Uil-v wiiJ pii».-i whole uij^hts ut
prayer. In thirht cKcn-iw.'* we uftcii cimilato cich other, and think wo
eannot carrv tlivni t'Ki Tar ; fur, intliK'd, liow can we ever hope fiiif)icioiitly to
cliaflUM a»(i niorlifv our Hitiful lle»h ?"

(jihmI (io(1 ! thought I ; and ihisu: Mi-nfiiv*, the«it onU-alM, are impoaed
jn n hoiiM; lurrouiidi^d )iy tniiijituiiiu pnliu'i's, and in thv vci'y o-atre of x
popiiloii4 JnxurioHs pity. Almost uncon8cti>ufly 1 excltiiin<sj — " But why
tlo you not rathor choose to live in eomo remote solitude, in eomc gloomy
forest, or on some bleak heath ?"

"It would inilced he beltt-r," rMiimod my nun, with her neemtomcd
swvctncsa of voice, "and wo would much prefer it, but wo citimot rcnioru
the convent that has ber:n assiffncd to us. and are not rich enough (o build
one in a more suitable placp. Besides, we may livn hore as elsewhere, free
from all cpmracrcc with tho wurltl, Imppy niid cheerful, in pcrf-.-cl concord,
and dcToicd to God, amd to frii-Ddshi|i for each other." At this iiioiiient
theK arose before niy mind's eye, one of those cronked little bl.ick lliiiigs
that ask question^ and 1 bej^i to think, that btforv my iuforniArit per-
suaded loe of tlie obecrftilnt-.-»!t and pi^rfect concord of hvr little conmiunity,
U would bft nMABary for her rn adtnit me a little more beliind tlui eurtain.
"And you wvro rij^ht in ynur doubts," said a fi-iend to me afwrwards ;
"the concord, 1 am sorry to say, b not such as might bo expected to pre-
ml anion;^ beings devoted lo such constant exercises of pietv, Intri^cs
and cabals are of constant oeciirrence in this little state within the state,
porticularlv on the occasion of electing ihtir principal, mho is chosen anew
trrtry third ycnr."

My gfflitle Carmelite, however, unconscious of my doubts, contiuaed in
the same strain. "Oh, you cannot inia^ne how happily, how bliwrfully,
VK live lierir, without a wiiJt or a. vaut to^atlfy. It is only ndcs so severe
u oun thai make it posiibls to enjoy heaven already upon rnrtli." Thu4
Bayinp, shu closed the glass case of Maria KWtn, after she had once cuoro
kisteJ the baud of the wliithered nniiuuiy, and prnyin]^ tiotl to have nic la
hi« keepinj;, iihf «itlKln.'w into tlie iatenor of tlie convent, Tlintujrli llio
OjK-ii door 1 diswiiied ii Iruij" pibssa^, and at the eml of it a etuall piece of
ground planted witJi tiees, the only pl;icu whence these pour creature* aro
ever aI»lo to gaze upon fiiml's heaven. God be with tlicc. poor girl, thought
I, tu the end of nor gurmml vauieheil round the comer, how prievoui
tnakcft thou life to thywif ! and yet luw not the Lord himself said — " ftfy
j-okc is soil and my burden is li^ht?" and then I thought of the many
ai^ful, pioiu niutW-w that I had kiKiwi) without the ccinvotit walls, living
a life of godhneea, and of daily utefulnose to their feUow-crcaturos.

PUBLIC nrexiTCTiosa asd coyvEXTS.

Tlic ^reftl charm wliich conTciild, pBi-tieuUrlj nunncrin. have fi)r us,
lies in t)ie natiir(> of th« vok-s t&kea tiy those v*)ii> retire there, and paitly
i& Uie uuiMoalneas of chuncter and ri>rtun« which we |iirosttin« in tlti> in*
mates. Another cause of die mat interest we tak« in t)>e»e inKtitutious,
is (he mjiltiry nliidi HunYxiniu them. Iliis ctmm), to inwistible to a
fobor Protestant, uttraolexl me once inor« to tho Ctumclitos, but ttiia tiiiM
in cQinpany with a lady orraiUi of Pnt^e, who went to pay a Tisil to tlie
principal of Oherm Aloysia. We *er« received in the [lajlour, which it
l«|MUiitod iiit(> two <livijrit>na by a doiib1« frmtinfif, such as is plac«d in all
Csnactito conriiut« hcfora evvr; window and opening throu^D which the
profane world might look into tlie dwelling of the holj sister*. Behind
this g;rating hung a dork cnirtiun which was mlled up, and preaentud to us
the prinrapnl aud aoothcr nun, wito liad preceded licr in office. B'tth wcro
closclj rcile<l. and my imagination was Id^ nt liberty to embellish tliem
vnthcndleis clinniis, of the ei.istence of whioh I was not allowed to obtain
any more satisfactory cridcDM. My companion offered indeed to ask th«
pniicipnl to uijvc!), and dxpTMin) a conviction tliiit the n,-<|ticst woiiM be
o^mplied witli ; but 1 prayed }m'. on uo account to do so, for I fe:ired, I
■cnrce know whv, tlie dissipation of those agreeable iUosion) iii uhich I
had been iudul^ng.

My two risit« cmivinced me, nt all vircnt^ iliat tlie CarmiOite* did not
livp in wicli numpleite eeclusion from the world as 1 liul been told. T)ie
principal ke«}is uji friendly reiations with many ladies in Prague, reo«ves
risiu froiu them, and acceiit* trifling preteiiLi. Nnr do I believe, in B]ute
of tlie a(«uniiioi'« of my tint inforiiiimt, tliat they would at all like to re*
move into a wildfmnw. Tboy do not nee the wor^d, indeed, but il is some*
thing to know that (ho wcild is about thnn, and though thoy imagino tticy
have renounced every feeling of vanitv, still it is necesfary tn them to know
themsolred admired for theip soU'-dciuol. Thej- place their solitude among
the princely palium of the Hradshin, na Diogvnes placed his tub uppodte
to the palaLTS of thi: Atlienians. Tho pulnccs tliat he despised were as
iieci-!i>>ary to his self-importance as to the pomp of Pericles and Alcibiades.
Ilnd the Atbeninns all ukcn to living in tub*. Di<;g«nt,-« would Imve tfoou
found hi.4 nnv hiu-k into u decent house ; nnd in tliu Mine way I am. con-
vincecl, the Cimii elites would not be long in knocking away thvir grutiogs,
if they were to hear one fine morning tliat all the fine ladies in Prague had
immured themselTes.

In ViMnia th« Cormulit^! nuns have not boon abia to roMWtablifih tliem*
solve? rinn; iho daya of Joee[>h, any nmre than the Je^iits. The Utter,
however, are tolerated in several of the pivivincial citiea of Austria. Prague
hoa, indeed, far more com'eiits and reltgiouK orden) than ^'ie1lIla, or than
any other eity in the emperor's dominions. It would lie niucJi more ean
to enumerate the ordcri that are not to be found in the Dolieinian capital,
than to count all (lie varieties of idij^ous baluts nnd unifonns that one
encounters in every Htreet.

\t noubl be an interexting thing perhapi to obferve all these monks in
thpir cells, but we sntisticd oureelvei with a visit tn the mo«t imixirtant of
iheni. the wliite Premnustrants of the monastery of Strahoff, which contains
one of the trmi celeLrat^d libraries in Bohemia. This eonvent, whate
n>al tintne ia Straalia, which the Germans have corrupted into Stra.ho(}', was
fonnded in 1 140, or only twenty yenn after an angel had shown to St.
Tfarbert, near Coney lu France, tlic field on which be was to build the first

TBI mnr orAui'Aicr

ga u w ot vf tlw otdnr. in Uw AirtMatli %nA tm rt mUh omtntiti, t)i»
asda* fotBumai Unt thousand notnitcnes. At ptswat tiw Dondm doM
ml cxcesd one fauiidred, of winch that of Strakoff ii prolMbly hy far tlw

Idka all iba PrathMitter or convmt* on a lai^ tcalo in Aiutria.
fl ic abo ff ii oat^r partially fini»Ii«d. Thv chnrrh is Ld a ruiooiu condition,
tmi «Sen a paiofiil cnotrast to thm ma^liceHc« of the interior of tlw
lUaarr. The beneficial «flfecU of this librorjr inDJit lie inestiiDkUe, if aU
tbt noBS tnta and noral pr«eept4 with which it* walls and columns are
■o Hoetally inHcribvd, have not only aervnil as architectonic d«conaon%
boe have, at th« mbm tinM^ basn Aniy inpcaaect npoa the heoru of the
mvnka.

The libmy contuns filVjr thnuianil rokiinet, airangad wttJi exmnptarjr
order aad dt^anniv whidi would bo the mow j^ntif^-in^ if tfane were mxA
■o few b«w to collect the honey Irom so fair a ^aid«a. The thirty ncoki
of tlw tiHi>«nt CAD enjoy Init a small poct!i)u of tJw rich nreets eoaa^;i>ed
lo their ki,x-]>iuff. and the chaunf^k thnm^h wbiidi their fertilising ioAHiiea
night be nude to flow orcr a wider iipacr, iv<|iin*the bold hand of another
Joseph to MMU tbem. ZuGa« who |>reaclu->d in the name of Husa, and
baptued with fire where Uuaa hud come armed oiily with watcr.^Zuca
wboM Tuima, next to that ef Jonph IL, it oftencet heard in BohiMnian
■oauterics. inatcnd of H-ttiiii; tns |^ii mm i vweetA Free for the boneBt of
■Minkinil, would han- ntoppcd them np alt(^;ethcr, fer he desCrojed the
monaitery'of Strahnfl' u lia destivjcd many others before. At prcsenC,
however, hia wild one-eyed cauoteoaiice Iwii^ iu the picture -j^lvrr at
Stoahoff, along wilbii inallitudr of other fabbarics^l portraits ; indeed I liare
feond the pictnre uf tlot puller down of castlce and convents, occupyinj^ a
prwainuiit and lionourabw place in the coU«cticn of ntany IJohcmtiin cm*
Tcnts and caatks that I liat^ had oocwiun bo risit ; and tbtxe who, if he
mvTB still linnp. would iiii>ve hi^vwu and earth to brinirliim to the gallows,
now that he tt not likely to do thttn any more mischief appear to be not
a littlu pruud of the prinlii^ of counlutg such a darvUevil antouj^ tlieir
cvnipatriota.

TOE JEWa' QUARTKB.

The Jewish oommunity of Prague boasts if bniui^ tli« nio«t nnmofoua
and moat ancient in tiw Aut-trian monarchy, and iudeed of all Genrnmy.
Jtconmtaof 10,000 indinduaK so that it compmw about, niie-tenth of toe
wbok population of the city, tn the Golician citio« omly arc the Jews
senetiiDes Fotind in a eteater proportion. Li Vienna, on thie ontraiy, they
anaant to only ooe-finli of tlie number resident in Pra^e, and if tlie
;^r««liT population of Vipnna is taken into account, th* Jews of the Bohe-
mian Etaaa in nttniprioni [iroportion to thoeo of the Austrian capital, m
twenty to oae. All Bohetniu i.i »ud to contain ahmit 70,000 Jews ; odc-
aevriith of the wltole, thcrcfon-, have their domicilcx in Prngui*. All Bohemia
cniitwits four millinni of ialiafailants ; conHv^nentlv, every itixti<!th man in
Bohemia is a Jew, and ia ibe capital cTcrr tento. There arc Austtisa
provinces lu whidi nn Jews «r« to be met ivitli. Tbtto are Austria abot-c
the Kit*. Styria, Carirtthia, and Camiola. In dta laet-oamed pmvinoe,
withia n Pmv vpats, ten Jews haut cut ;ih limited tbuiuclvia. la Styria OUO
lolitary kroclite a said lo hold Uia ruaidcuo;.

XaS JEWS' QITAftt&b.

III the wbole of the AiuUiaui states there ftre at prM«ut 6o2,000 J««« ;
moro tliiiii oue-tbird of thi^ Mholf, 2().>,000, beiug mrtiidvd wicbin AtutriiiK
Polnixl. iind nMfH u many, 260,00(1, in Huiiguy. Aboat one-aisth, op
110,000, lababit Boluiiua uiil Moravia, and tb« Kraainder an distributed
in inudi postiona^ over th> remaiuio^ proviocefl of the onpin-. Thiu, in
Tniu;tvan» there ore S;SOO: in Tytol 1900; ia l>alinatta, .lOO; ia
Lonbartlj, SOOO : tn Venceiut Lontbanly. 4O0O ; in thr >GIitiiiy Fron-
tier, 4UU, Ac HaDce it would iccm, tKnt iti aiicictit times, tbc Slavonians
and 31ag]ran must bnrc been moit tolerant to the Israeliti-A, wlulo tlio
Gamuu and Italiuu must alwayi hava been lev wiilinf^ to lulmit thAm ns
fojdvnts. Tb« puft-ly Ucrman pnmnoei of Auatrk contain only 2000
J«ws, the purely Italian only 7000; whereas in tltoM pnvnncn ia which
tlie Slavoiuao and Ms^ar elements of population preponderate, the Jewa
aniubcT iM 1ms than Clit^OOO. Mo<«o««r, in thft G«niian aud Italian pro-
fliaccs. the Jewa anyeariydecreMtng'iit nnmberp, aJtboo^tbe populatioa
rnmndlj U inonnnug' ; in Eluiif^aiy, on th» othw band, the ilewi an
- 0MMDff at a £arinos<e rajiid r^tio than any othor class of the populatKHL
Ttia otntT (|u«tiun, lliut whidi nSaa to the antitiiiity oF tnv Hukrew
conuuunity at Prwiiv, will 1m leu cii^ to »dve; ladMd, ao wi<k> a ran^e
fM tbam batwMQ d^rvut anthontiM, lint than is a diffareree of nn Ims
' ihan a thouMad years Wtwccn ike date aao^aed by one party, and lluift
ConileBilad for by thoae of an opponte opinion. The Jews maiotAin that
tiwir wktlvHieut at Pncua data* back at leact to the ymr fi32 iif tlie
Cliriatiuu era, tltat date ning' ioacribcd upock the mon aoci«i>l ImnbabOBa
f>f their cumctn-y, whllo aeremt torabstoiies aio still to be RMnd ioflcribeA
witli vartoux dates from Oie 8th (wntuiy. Tlie Bc^emians, tiowever,
ytfuftc to KMJgnise the claim of the Jews, and deny the auth«nticity of the
i atone altof^too'. The Jews, they say, have oecupicd thvirpnsciit quarter
• only for a few centuriets, haviii|f been jvmoved to it. from the opposite side
of Uie liv^r, by tha iiipiam oommaod of one of the kings nf Bcnenua, who
•saigaad to tham iba k>oimty now 1um>wd under the name uf Judm-ttatti, or
[Jews' Town. Oae Bolieniua antii^iiaij told rae that the inscriptiion in
[questioB nbmd probohly to the year 1632, and not tiSi, it bein^ still
[anial in maay parts of AasCria to sbtidgo dotes by leavinfc out blic tint
' fi^iTT-, and to say for twntnnnfY 84 1 , in spealiin^ of the year t R-1 1 ,

If Uie Jvira are eorraci tn thuiv Aimoiogy, their coiuitiutiity must have

I'flsiated as earlv as the reijc^ of the eelebrabM Slavonian kJatg, Sano, wht»

rwutad BobesBiaand 31oro«ia inboapowarfulSlaToniaDempue ; nnr would

I there He any thing very niarirelknu in supposing llut tliti mifjrhly sorarui^^

I mder whom conunrico is known to have been actively earriod on, should

r«b«ady have had Jews amonff his rabjects. It a not, however, known in

Iwhat patt of his dominiona Kinjf Samo held \u3 residunve, and it is only hia

. neoesaor, Krolc and Libuiaa to whom credic is given for havinf:^ founded

'frafnx- NovvrtltcJcM, ocvordiii); to PtdouHeu*, there is rrry little doobt

that Marobudum, die aucirnt capital (^ the mighty Marbod and bis Map>

liomaits stood on the some spot on whioh Prague was aftrrwaids built, in

wltich nuc it is very likely tluit Samo mlud over the whole land (nrntth*

i of the Mohlao. Tlwrt: would bu nodiinjr abfurd (faercftre, in su^-

that the Jews may have dwelt for 120t) yt*n wbi-re Prajpie now

stands, even thoooh we may not f«cl disposed to rcL-Wv« ihcir tonibst«DM

•« aiitlii-ntie evBMnce of tlie fuct. Naj, it is quite posiiblc. tliut ^Inrbod

Jumerlf, the colemponuy of Augustus, as he adopted so many thiiiga Grom

THE JEWfi' QTrABTEK;

the Ronuuu^ nifej, imon|r otlicr importstiona from Italv. have rewK'ed a
Gooaigomeatof Jawi for UN 6Ui>ply(><rhi( cttv vf Murobudum. A Hebrew
oolonv may even ha^'c ciUtcd here at a still parlirr pfriod, when, pre-
viouaiy to the Christian em. and befure the invEisIoii of the country by the
UukoniMU, the Celtic orcrei^a helcl their court in their &nti<^u« capital
Butneniun, which tniul ■!«> hi»vt- btini titiiaUttl vrrj' nrar to where Hnigue
now Ktaiida, and probably on the spm now ocmpitil iiy tlm tilbigp of Bu-
benets. Iq this way the Ji>w or Sluvoiuaii^.

\Vlieth«r or no there he aiw fniiii(liiti«ii for the«c speciilattoo), it i« not
tha lea oertaia tliat tlic said Jpwish roinvtory )ia« nil thp outward tippenr-
■nec of gnat aoUquity, and belougH, as well aa several of th« synaf^^es,
to the most intereirttug ol^ecti llial a Imveller cati exjicct to look upon.

Th(! cotnetery lies in th« very lietirt of tlio Jutlnuiiatil, when; it in en*
circlvH !>y huilairij^ anJ narrow Iaovs. Its form U v«ry inr^Iar, niodin^
now broad and tlion iiarmw, amid the houses that overtop ita lofty wall.
This Tiiry irregularity of form aeems to r|k!»Ic in favour of thf liijrlt an-
liqiuty nf the placo, to which, thmtigh meenedtn^ cfntiiHrc, a friif^ninit
M«nu DOW to have been added heiv. and now there. In tbc ccntnd part
of the enclosed sp&c«, the tombstones are crowdt^ lo|retber in a manner 1
never saw Liqunlled anywhere else. VAiytc to the wall, on tlia inside, is tt
fbotpatb, and a man must walk tolcrnblyfastto bo able to make the round
in a quarter of an hour. The Jews do not as we do. inter fresh corpses in
ffraves whose formnp tenants have moulderi'd into dust, but always place
Sieir dead either over or by tlie side of caeli other. This practice occtuion*
the astoulghiiig nccuniulntion nf tombstones, of wluch 1 am sure there aro
several hundrf^d Lhousand in tliis cemetery. They Lave all a family re-
ecmblaace, beiiijj four-eomeped tablets with iK'tttly-exwut«d iiigei-iptions.
They AtanJ liliirally iu closely toj^tbcr as ears in a cumfield. AU aie
cnrefiilly pre^ervei), ihnu^h some tiave sunk more or Ins into tlie gronad,
eo much bo, that )\wv imd tliero you see a stone, of wliich only a small por-
tion ia stJU viaiUi;. The wholou overflown with elder hu.ihc3, tliat stretdi
th«ir knotty and confused braiidici" fmrn stone tii «one. The*e elder* an
the only trwu ihiil gT*»w then?, mid some of them scvm to be nuaHy ac old
as the itonce which lJ«-y ovcrshndew. The pj-eeence of tlic eliler-treo ia
tiirytiifT-grounds us not, however, i>eculiar to tlita place, but prevails Tery
gt'nftriilly throughout Bohemia.

Ilere ond there a small patli winds among the thicket of lombfttODM
mid elder-trees, and on following it you come to small elevated afiacea «f
gronnd that have been left unocoupiod, attd arc now overgrown with
gntt. If 1 were a painter, and wi«h«l to pMnt « picture of the Rejurrcc-
tion, 1 must coufcss, 1 should clioose one of these Ultle ^ass-grown knolb
til th« Jewish eemetvty of Prague for the scene, in prcfttrenee to any other.
I call iinagin» no moro iiictureaque vpot frnm which to contcmplato so vast
a spectacle, and I woiia«r, wheo we have so mnny pictures of tho cele-
brated buryiiig-ground at Constantinople, that our arttsu should not also
hav» litlccn that of the Jews at Pra^e ns a jrtibjeet for tlwiir pencils.

Tlio iuseriplions awMicarly all in Hebrew. Ji'owhccc did 1 sec a Bo-
hemian inscription, and only here and there, on a stone of compnratively
modem date, ha* Uie German Inuf^af^ benn used. The year is always
at the top. Tho tombs of those of Aaron's race are distiiiguifihcd by two
bands i|pu%-oa into the stone, and those of the Levitcs by a pitcher, to mark

THE JEM'S Q17AUTEB.

tli« HFice of the latter to pour wat«r <>a tlie bamla oC the fonuer, nlieik
p«rfortnuiff their kblutSoni in the temnl*.

Tltc •icxccDdtuits of Aaron ucv«r vi^^it the (emetenr durinr tbeir lives.
Any contact with, or vrtax a, near n[i|>n)ach to, a deaa body, i« « i">!hjtion
fiir them. Tliey may not, tht-ivfore, ivtiikiii in a hoiiKo m which ■ AvnA
body M lyiDg. Th(Tv \a Imt ouv cxcrptioD made to tliis law, nanielv. wlicn
the lathi-r of oii Aarointc divs, in nhirii case tlie son may cuitic ntliriu ilirre
•Ub ol' the body, and follow it to the buryinj^-;^ouini, till within tlmtt olli
of a ptave. The Jewish taws evpn pnsmbo tli« di*tanc# at which on
Aaruiiitv iiiuat kci-p wlieii piuniiig a burj-in;j*groiiii(]. which (iisCancc-. liow-
evcr, I* iiot cnlculal»l from thif out^r «-&ll, but from the tipareft grave,
Now, in Franu-, it liuppcii«< thut niie street posa^a dose to thi> vrali, and
that just in this spot tho ^raYea not oidy reach up to lJi<! v<-ry wall, but
that MQie are ercn aup)jo»c<I to tic undrr the [tavciiicnt of thv »trv«t.
This would. cuBDoqucnily, bi* u furhidtU-n rontl to rvrry Anrmiile, ba<l not
paiticulAr ammf^mont* been mn^e to proi'ide a remedy. Tbii has bv«ii
ooiio by undcmiiiiiD^ that part of tlie 5tre«t. and the empty Taiiltnl iipacft
ihiu obt^ned. protects the Anronil« afi;aiiiiil pollution, fur acconlinK lu tha
lav, one hnndn^d ells of vaulted £]ia<'c, ar« deemed c-r^unl to ono thoutond
filled vritb iioUd earth.

Here, ai in even- other Jewtih cemeteiT. apiece of grnund has hvin net
apart for the imi.'niient of children willboru, or of pmnalarc biiili. In
tlie coime of time, this pin tion of the wmctery hua ktuwii iato a bill nr
nioiiiid. ri^hty pn(-i-» hm^, Uti nacct broad, and tvrdt-v fret ht^b. Kphd
iK the.! Ileiirow word for n child whoae lifo does not fittend Iwyond llio
fiturtli week, and Ephfl is th« name gi\^n by tite Jews to tins iiMund
fnrincd of infantine remains. Close to this Ep/tel are eituated Home ol<L
booMt that aeeni to be ou the point of falling in. Thty are projiped up bjr
bMuna r««dnj( on the Kpliel ; thun thn mouldering bouM of dec«a«od in-
CaaU lend their support, perhaps, to the tottering dwelling -places of iheir
livinff parents.

^Vhea soma rixly yeara a^gn, the Kmperor Jotcjih prohibitcil nil ftitiiro
iiitrniicnt« within thv walls »f tbo city, the Jews had pun'hand a »inall
piece of land, and consecrated it as an additinu to their cenielcn'. Hat in;^
once been couneemled. though not one body hiis bi^on inlencd tlii-iic, tliu
p^uiid ho* bcconio holy, and may not be »oId ii^n ; but thov^'h it ntay
not be sold it moy be let for hire, and accordingly n dcater in wood has
become the tenant, and uses the place as a depOt for big nierc!mndtie.
The whole cemt-lerj', since Joseph's tiin«, hu been only an interesting
{liirci! of antiquity, »till no |)iTtion nf it can be sold or built upon,

Th«r Hebrew community «( Prague «ajoyfl a hijfh irpntatioti Bnioiijcr all
the Jews of Central Europe, and many cel«brat«<l Hebrew schnlarf, many
diattni^ULed women, and many eminent niprchauld aud baidtere, rest
within its remetrrj'. The ttvmniunity of Prague may even lie looVeil oa
HM the jiarent liive, nlioncc many an entcrnriiiiig twann «kF)iart<Hl for the
colon ixnl ion of Poland ai>d Hungry, and 1 had subuxpient npportutiitie«
of sntl>fylng ninelf of tlie iiifluenoc which a Jew from Prafjrue is able, even
at the iinnvnt my, to cxerciti^ anion^ ht« co-ivli<rionarie!i of Hungary.

In tne CAtneterv of Prs^ic, many a grxve is pt^inud out to the Rtraiigvr
a« that of a man high in renown anions: thote ofhix tivm naUoii. Amount
oUieri, I was calttd on to admire the beautifully- tculjitured moinuncni nf
a fair Jeweat, who liod rifon to bo a lady of high rank, tbo vife of a nvniihy

TBB nwr ^AKTSB.

railh oentit. TTH>r* ««I9 ■rr«nl tnmb« which. I ww told, Itdoafted ta
Xiflvibai Uiil Rabbis of lugll baoe audi diilinctioii, kml to ont my Ktt«utiQa I
«u direoted, as tliat of a jtmth who died tome cciKuriM n^, at Uio wijrJ
Rge of oigfaleen. Ttiis youth had been, even in childlii>od, they told bh^ i
• nurteic of Icwuinj;. wwlom, beaun-, luid virtue. God had eouowAd bttn
ivith the moot nleaiiag qoalitiM, nutl Jehovah's spirit hovered uaceiuiHgly
over the boy'* need. His was too Tirtuoiu, bowerar, for thia world, and
hi j Creator therefore called tnm away in his eighteenth year. At tiis death
thi-rc WL-n- ngiu and lairaclc and tlie h«aveiis were oh»vun<d. The Riojf ^
of Bofaetnia who then rvigned, uiserviug this, M-nt o>er to die other «d»
of the nver to dmnand of the win tnoa among- tho J«w«, the cniuo of tln»
auddva daHcneu, and was informed, ia rvpTv to his intorrogatoriot, that aa
ang«Iic soul had jiut departed from the carta.

Una tomh, erected early in the ]fut century, was pointed out to mo a*
that of a wffolthv and benevolent li«ra«lite of the name d MdMd. Ha
lind inherited nochin;; from his father, and eifntitiuod till dcatli, lo he a
dealer in old iron. He lived in tKe same modest and nantimonioua manner
A! t!» majority of hU natinn ; but with (lie mmey that ho was ihiu nhlo
t*! narc, lie Imilt th^c J«wi»h council -house at I'mj.'^";* aud four Bjtuii^jgnM.
Six streets were povcd at his expense, and sittv y>'"r jirojiltf wi-rc weekly
fed by him. No one knew wheuee liis moupy came, or where In* concealed
it, but it wiu suppoHd that he iiad fuimd a <)uantity of ffohl amottg' some
old iron that he hod nmdentally pun'hiiaed.

At present, the Jewish eemetef^', lik« mnst old niima or dtwrt^il place^
■etvM as a rcfugi; to a number of thieves nnd df^ort<T«, who are often ^lo
to conceal tliCTn-tclvcA for n long lime aiiioii^ die bushes and tombs, ,\mr>M^
the iraiiu'i^atoly ndjoeimt ho»»o« iire oii jwytuni for young children, an iii-
iinnai'v, and on hospital. For the aoeommodntioii of the children a (loor-
vay haa beeii broken through the wall, and a (mall unoccupied space of
the cemetery ban been aMi|.med to them as a plavRround, where a shed
witti lii'iicheu luid table* hju been erected for t)ieir use. 1 own, when t
saw tlK little cTcatores sportini; about in their little comer of u churdi-
ynrd, and froliekin;^ nmonp the etosriy-erowded f^vestonra, I could nob
Iielp askiiifi' myself what in^ueutre euoIi a iitaygmund was likely to exercise
01 er the future derelopount of their mmils. They were plucking wild
flnwi^rs froQi the {*nvei^ and Vtvuthing them !nti> earlauds. Thcrv wcro
laxay pale, nicncer, helplcffi little creatores among' tnem ; atid, u I htoked
on them, I could not but think of Uw different bte of the little &rourites
of fiiTtune, whose first tutteriiig steps ore made ainoiiff flowery parterre^
or owr Uie lawn of a pnrk. A sinf^iilar cnntratt to iiiia scene presentad
it»elf when I viRited thtt iiitiminry, where 1 found a number of afi^l em-
tures o( both tvx*:*^ who hnd complotelv sunk into the hclple.«m««8 of »
second infancy* Amon;a: them was a JewcMi more than a hundred year*-
old, who had been bedridden for years. Shit -lay eronked, blind, and alinont
motiomletSi more like a revetable than nn anitnAted being;, and th« only
sign of life manifeitrd by tier, was sji occnannal whining sound. About
forty old men and women were coughing, hobbling, and grosntng around
UK. I WK accompanied by a man m some eonsideration in the eomniuuity.
He was saluted by t))c inniiites of the house in a compUtcly oriental Atylc.
They ouoe tottenng np to hitn. kis»od his gnnnviit, addressed him o%-gt
and orer again by the title of " Gracious Hakter," and wished him Inn^
Ulc, health, and the blessing of God. Many of these pocr people hod no-

TIIB JEWS' QOAKTEK.

I Irat K ntJv coucli ui a *er

or a

tluii^ in tine imti t w IioQ but k ntdv coucli in a very uninTitiii);
room : yet ihey wen unceasing in ihoir profenioni of gralitiiide for tlw
nnvics Tondmled ta tboo, tbougfa tfaeie BMOied to ne to be littto about
the boun doMrvio^ of ooawtt qi iiation ntoept tbe ftot of its cxiatoncB. I
aiinddcred wturn I thou^bl liow wrvtcbed miuL be tbe dam, to be rewoad
from which, was calinilat^i to cull fortli sudt wxnn e ^ p rowi oni cf tfauik-
fobms. Id fact, 1 b«li«r«, tJi&t in tbe Jews' tjiurter of Pngue, ma&v s
Ti fffi t»ii bcin*; breAcbes forth lik i^iirit&nannj' scenes of euch b^rt-rendin^
WRtobednan, that oveii na iiitintur}', inch a» tliat I vat n»w visitiaq;, imy
itill dcMTve Co bo docntcdn bpiuitw^nt institution, ontitlin^itt foundcn mm
npporteni to the thanks and estoem of erery truly beuerolent mind.
Would tliat they were more [)Owerfull^ seconded in tn«ir humnne en(l«a>
TDun, that tb«y mif^t rcieem a laffp>r tluire fram Ihn floods of aa^ry
with which the Judcnrtadt of Prif^o is at present orortiowtng !

miat a vut extent of moral dosolaLioii there miut still exist in tliu nty,
mado evident to me by tbe case of n hnmoQ beiu]^ whom I saw in tliif
Ilo wai a boy that had beva (ouikI wnodcrinf; about tbe stieota
Prague. He appeami to mc bo Iw btrtvrveD ten antl twvlre vean old.
He wu taken up by die police in the streets, a wild little creaiuiv, ^nnd
VDoblo to apeak or imdcntand any huif^aj^. He was handed ovor to tlw
Jewish magutratcs, who placed liim in tlm iniirniivry, iifW havii^ nunly
endnniared to obtain a clue to the cluld's family. The name of Lebcl
KMnwer was given him. We found him crouchinj^ in a eom«r between
A window and n Wrp: dieat. *' He is wild tuid utiji^iivcnmbb," said tliu
niperintend(-iit of tlic houae, "and tlioiijrh I kan^ beaten him fur it re-
peatedly, he will GometiiDM jiunp like a. cat out of tlia window, and |^
iudiug tuuoug the busho« anil gravcstonpiq yonder. E^Iia delist is to luiut
» cata, and if be catches thciu he kills them, llis limbs are powerful.
id hia teeth remarkably atroog and sharp.** So sayinfr. th» man pulled
'open tiw boy's mouth, and showed ua bis tftth, much iit the same war that
s abowman nc a fair would hare exposed the tusks of somo wild aninaal.
** He will eat aa much as two grown meu," enntiuued the mpsrintendent,
•'Hot be is not at all dainty, swallowing indift'erently every kind offnod
ofiemd liim. Sometimes he is more ^un iBunlly wild, and then he \b dan-
^eionfi, bitiiigatid scratching oil who comcncar him; me, bowerer, benerer
Vtntnrcs to attack. He iaj» nothing, and if any one cpftakt to bim, Iio
nerely rvpoats the words like an indistinct ecba" Tbo countenance of the
diild was regularly formed, and Itia eyes were fidl of animation. 1 naid to
him, " ViHiat is your name i" and Iw replied only by imperfectly articrulnting
the two lait wordii, " your uame." " Wliy nave yon no trotisen oh ?*'
Mud I. " No — trou — on." was tho edio tliat answuircd to my intermgn-
Iniy. " Lobel Kremsipr, an, you not cold ?" " Old" was the sound witli
which he refilied. Whilo he was thus repeating my word*, bis face was
diMorted by * kind of anile or grin that Momeu to tromUo over his
iatunm. i attribuieil this to einoamssmont, bat my guide told vw it
vaa tlw effect of mere tvfror, aiid then, for the Unt time, I ebaerved thai
llw whole body of the ditkl was trvnibliug. After] iind [>«ted on, llooked
ImcIc, and saw that be still sat cowering, trembling, and grinning.

In doselat* plaoos, among fomts and raanboa, such wild abandiin«d
Wing* hare sometirae* been found ; but how it was possible for a wrvtclkcd
rivnture like Lebel Kremster to grow up in a pt^uloui aty, a a riddlo I
am unablo to solrsu

THB JEWS' QUASTKB.

There are no Ipm than twenty Jrvruli Bmmi Medtrahf or houses of ui-

ttruclioii, brndps eight temples, the greater [lart of whicli are in the im-
mediato vicinity of tl)» amfiUiry. T)ie oldest and most inMrMtin^ is '
all«d the AUneutchvU, whose iottnol amuigvtaeDts intereeUol i»o _
iQQni, Bi iJic wiciviit »ty\f. of thu archiU'Ctun^ nnd the order of divino
nrvioettill nbpervetl tln-iv. nffi>niwl inonn npiwrtiuiity of inwilutingaooni-
pamon with tli« reformed syskm of woreliiji which i« molcing rapid way
Kinong the modcni Jcwh, aad has ah'euly taken Gnu root at Pra^^ue,
where it tbientens to drive tlie old >]:nap)gu«i atid t)ie old schools com-
|tlift<-lY out of tJic Held. I Hcarecly bxTicve thnt there \a aay thing like
tlic AUnciMchulc O'f Prague to be found, at tlio present day, lu any Other
part of Gi-rmany.

The outside of this sj'nagogue looks like one of those old w-arebousM
thut may atiU b« seen in some of our UvmtuLii cities that hftvo uudergon«
but htt.le rhiui;^ vincc tlu.- tniddlc agva. NVithin, tJic dust, dirt, gloom,
ami iiniokiu(!4« of llie whohi place, remind tini* nf a catacmub. From the
ceiling hangv a large Ha;^, »n bu-ge, indeed ih&t it extends the whole leoj^
of the syiiagngue. 'fliia flng; waa given to the Ae\\a by Ferdinand III.,
after the [ermination of the thirty yoan' war, for thi- iinlHotiHin and gal-
lantry lliey had div^iliiyi.'d wh<-ii I'mcriio wnu bi-xiejriHl by tlw Swedaa tn
till' lA«t y«ar of the war. Duriiig; this ticg^ nil (he ciliitous of Prsgue, vrtn
tlie GtudcDts, the Jesuits, and tJie monk.-i, had fnu^hl bravely on the walls,
and hod creo mode several sortiei to attack the bokiegen. Di reward for
their gallant behaviour, tlic emperor cnnforred tlte honour of knighthood
on a number of citiieus, indudmg all the uty councillor}, in addition to
wluch, variam honours and inunuDLties vrere conferred on sereral of th«
oorporatinna and convent.«.

The Utorau Natkin» {that potion of the Bynajroguc eot apart for the
wimiei]) is psrdtioned off (ram the body of tlie temple hv a wall a foot and
a lialf in thkkneas. A nanuw Btuicose, tut^h a^ nmy \ya seen behind the
floencs of a low theatre, uivcs u the only mcan« of accent for tl)c womni.
la the iiitm>w tnuMgei mimnindcd by wnlLs they liavo their choirs. At
Rfpilar iut4-n*au thirc are in tlte wall irtnin rentd or apertUTM, about ait
ell ill lonutli and on invh in bresdtli, ond through these nurow boles eentM
all that the female members of the cuugrv^iti^'n arv allnwcd to hear of tha
word of God. Here tliey crowd tn^rithiT, Innking^ sni) listvinng down into
the (cmtJe through an o|)i!niiig tbut niitiM Im nbundantiv small for one of
them, if »he had it all to herself. "They wiJl hear b'ut little there," I
obMTved to the Israelila nlio conducted me down the stairs. " Oh, quite
enoQ^ for women," wiu lii» nngallnnt reply.

On the tfib\ine, in the centre of the K/nogogMe, stAod an old R*l>bi aiUl
preached. Uls lifti-ncrs <j\>wded atx>und the tribune and some bad even
intntcled opoa the tribune itself. Cltise before tlis preacher «at a wlut«-
luiired old man, who appeared to be hard of hearing, and siretrlicd forth
hi4 ear in tlw elT^rt in ctitch the nordi of the speaker. Xcar him was a
ciMivd of boy^ Tlte prenehcr w&a not, a» with us, confined within tha
lintitod space of n pulpit, but mored freely about from one side nf his liagw
to the otncr. There waa moeh in this that would Iiave been highly ia-
decoroui to our ProtMtant tmtioiu. As iiu- as grouping and outwnid form
are coaeamed, a highly iulen-jitiii^ dagunreotype picture might have been
fitmitflMd fay tbe assembled congroeation ; but, howercr loudly the preacher
vociferated, the spirit tliat •hould ttavu givui wanuth and life to his dia-

THE JEWS' QUABTEB.

course 'ITU altogethor muttiug. Hu discourse wm the stran^st nietUcy of
German and Hebrew that 1 had crer beard. Ererv t«il frnra the Bible
waa Arct mwa in Hebranr, and then Iramdatcd iiito German. At one
, aoincnt tn<- ipeaLcr would be caumcnlin^ upon Nolnicliadiiciucar, thon
'upon tlic de«^truc(ion of Jcnisalrm by Titiu, then again he would cn-
liu]^ upon the false Uj^hts of modem timei, to elucidate which he woaid
< ricip up (he whnle ladder nf history to the day* t\( Adxm.

Tlic c)utii|;^c4 introduced into their temples of Uto years by the niorti

enlightened Israe]ite«. have altered none of the essential parts of diviue

mcc, wliicli, in spiiit and form, remains pn^ouc-ly suf^li as it is proscribed

_ ' the aocicat law. Il 'n only tliQ inunvnlioi», that had crept in durinK ^^^

jeoune of time, that ))ave htwii n-form«l ; and iu complying' with the k-tteir

' of the law, they have eiideaToured to avoid, as mueli as possible, whatever

il caJcuUted to oSend the enUghtentDeot of modem times. Thus, ia

the reformed Jowinh temples, tho women .idll continue to be M:[ianitcd from

tho men ; but by niwti rntlings, and not hy thick walls. The anHeiit hymn*

: have been rctainita ; but lh«>y are more careAiUy perfarmed, and a vuitahlo

''Cboir of siiigcra is maintain^ for the ptirpoK. Tlie doctrine of ll>e eer-

' non may he also little aliened ; hut nome oratorical ability i« lookwl for in

tha praaeher, who i; exp<x^4!>d to niltiv*t« a purer style, and to refrain

tma a perpetual repetition of ncbrew quotations.

Id was in Berlin and Hamburg timt ihti fint ossociiitioni were formed

wuong tho Jews, with ii view to brinyr kbout these rofonQB, and the cs-

•iDplo was soon followed iii every part of Germany. In Pn^]^e, about *

tliundrcd men joined toother, built a new »}-na^)^c, and snit a dejiuta-

ItioD to Berlin and Hamburg, to obtain more complete information n-s[)ect*

"gig ih« reformed mode of worship, and to seleet a preacher of learning,

''~ty, and oraturical ability. The lin<t Kelectiim was not a fortunate oo« ;

the new teae^ier obtained but littlo favour in t}ie ey«8 of his flork.

' Till) «ecnnd, Mr. Sua, who, like his pr«deoeaser, eame from Berlin, liaa,

however, become so popular, that even Proletttanta and Catholics will often

I to hear him preach. I went to hear him on the day kepi in noro-

noration of tliv dMtrucLion of Jeruaalnn by Uti^; but, uiifortuniitHy,

[ arciied too late, the sermoii bang just over. The women, like the men,

ere sittiug in the lower space of llie temple, witli this diffi-reuoe ouly,

It the mim occiipi«d the centre, and tho wmnen tlie tide aisles. The

Mr WM eompoMa of a numlwr of youn^ men and boys^ in a blade cos*

06, with small black veln-t caps. As they sun^, they were accom*

by a tiiiall or^un, and the psalms had hem reudenid into a pure

and well-written (><rrman vention.

Tho reform in the Jewish temple to<A toot in Vienna somewhat looaer
than in Prague, and is now eilendiii{r its influence from these two eentret
L-toaJl the Hebrew communtticiS of the Auttrian crojiire. Schools, hoi*
ptals, aud other institutions connected more or leas with rchgion will not
to be boneflrially nffectod by the movcfnent : whidi, indeed, tltey al-
TMdy fed, as I b3dsub3e<|uenily moru timn onee oceanon to rvinatk. Tlu)
Anatrian )^)T«ninteiit haj tolerated and even encouraged thefv reforms ; the
jnorc readily, n« they have not liitlierto led to any rrli^uus cabala and
JiwensiopB. These iiuleed, the friends of refona and progress, are sedtilaia
to avoid, and for tJiat very reason they always protest aeaioat their h«iflg
catted or treated as a separate party. Ne^-ertiieleaaiaometaiugUke&feeltiig^

TBS JEWB OUABTEB.

«f •Tsmon (bom Jttelf t>etw«cn tliow of tli« old faith and (h« n»w. Tlw
OU Jem look npon tlicir iouoTatinj; bmtliivn, liowevcr cauUotis these may
}>t, lu vioUlon of the hw, and muTmur at tlieir pro»«<lJiip iKCordingtv (
bat iftlw re fo tmew condntw to ofaaerro Uic nm» rnodtraiion, tlwy will
cany their whole natioo with them in time. " Our diief rabln, Bappopat^
isan«iilig:bt«ne<ltnan,'' said one ot^ntornmn ton*, " awl la nubearfc^
h« a Mfriaiuly on oar tid« ; bat ha mint not qtnmtl with either aidev.
•Dd tbeitfbre d«M oot chooee to pronounce htnuelf too opculjr tgiitM tlM
oMoncs."

Till* Mr. RaffKiport n at prMent one of t)ie mo«t eminent and mort ,
bi]fblv-<oaader«droen in tli« wbolo commuDlty of Pra^oe, though It k bi4 j
latdy that he arnvnl then-, iiud that &om Polnnd, a countrjr in which M>(
onp can ny tliat «nligh(eument has aa ypt made any grvat progTeMl
among tlm Jews, U» rerided fonnedy u ToinnpoJ, in Galii'ia, but hicT
KpttUtioo for leanif^ iimI hberality apread fkr and wide, itud caused
him, a few yean ago, to be nromoM to the post nliich \w now holdi. I
want to pay my rospects to htm, and found him sunouodal by a cirda oC
learned scnbes.

The rabbia in thia part of the world — I mean in Bohemia, Poland, asd
Ilun^ry — continue to lire aft^^r llic fa^diton of t)ii< wiM> Buni of the Eaat,
They lUlnw Uic li^ht nf iheir wiaikm to tjiine upon the world in a rciy
different vay from our learned |ihiloaophera of Europe^ wfao* wilcu whrn
addrMring a reepectftiUy Tutt^itng audiMrj- from the rostruin. are eddoiM,
■ nrariMf to t]icmulutuci<;th:tt «tiind tn mnch in need »f their iuatruotiailb I
H«ra the rabbis «t upon the ■^jK'n markel -place, like the Idn;^ nud judgti
inaaAm landa, and in their hoiu^n they Kit with open doors, ready Ut'
iwcave andaiuwerall who eomv romiiiHoliitinii nr advice, Thia ia narti-
cvbrly the caac on the aoleotn festivak, when tlic mblH* receive all «ho
flMne to them, tlw-ir dn-cllings bein^ luoVed upon, apparently, on thoM '
OOttWMtt, Ims as priTBlc bouMB, chnii aa places of aasefobly for the wbola '
CMigregatton. Tlie wifo and ditu|;ht4M« ore j^^eraliy found in an antO'
rooia, whore tlicy recttiru the i^csC, atid tulicr liim into the inner apatUi
Bent, into the presence of tli« rabbi, wlui, arrayvd in bis [wntilic^ grena*!^
rally nts at the end of a loii;' tabi e, oncirrled by a numerous asMmblajg^ ot
vinten^ rtmngtn, and fnisido.

It was thus that I found tlw thinf nihlii, Happoport, whose ncqiuunt-
•Dce I was denraus to make. Ke hnd not vot Hudwnde the coiituiue of
the Jews of Eastern Europe, sod tat i& his ano-chair in a black slLk caftan
•od a hi^ furred cap. uriielites from Magdeburg, from liamburg, from
WatMw,and from Amsterdnin, wcresittinfr aniitiid him. and other visitsA i
wweeoiutantly arririnfr-aoddepartioiE;. Mr. R«j>|t<>port u an Aamnite, ft'
distinction that corrirs niili it pririlegea far more bunltauomc ihiui pro-
fitable. Of i>ii<? of tlMue I liat-u itlrcudy spoken. Another is, that vrvry
newiv'boni clukl is brou^t to an Aaronitc tliat ho may bless it. Th«r»j
•reaiaos^iDe Lerites at Prague, but tliey arc less liumcruus than tlit]
Aaiui/iles. The taioo t* obwrred to be the case in the otiicr Jewish
ooBwiunieiu of Europe ; and thin, I wax told, was because Cyrus, when hSil
re-«8tabliabed Janualem, broog-bt back to Paicstine a gireatcr number of i
Aaronitcs ^an of Leritcs.

Jilr. Bappouort told us that lliv Jewish Carailes of tlio Crimea and
Turkey, had lately found a etone, from the imcriptions on which tfacj

THE JEW6' qUAUTSB.

■Dugbt to ihow the virj nnot* aBiI(|iiiiv of Uieir lect i but that he h^
Utcly nrittcD u tputlc to Uiem to diow tbat lli« stoDC «oul'l cot be go-
Duiuc, B3 !t prori!sscd to be dated frtmi tlic crvatioD of the noilil, nt a tiiiio
when that wvs not tlie era. hy which tlio Unwiites redconed. In bis lettm*
he nid, lie had provcitl ta the CaraJtM, thiit the «ra From which the Jevs
orij^inallj- rvckminl una (be Hl^ht from t^i't, with whicli thvir political
huttonr comniPiicL'd. Tliis ^steni of clironology thw rrtaliied for about
tnn looiuBnd vears, when tlit>y adoptc>d the era of tn* ScIcticLdir, whidi
prevalU-d amotig: the Cbuldeom, toe Synaii3, tbo Pcniuu, aod ttmoDg
nuMt of tb« orieiiUJ natiotu. TUs sjrstcm of compuUlioo was retamed tm
-th« J«wa till about five hundred ywtt ago^ -ndien Uw ereotiou of the woria
ms adopt«il.

Ballon among the Jews fonua naturallj a subject of constBitt and
&Diifiar ooDTtttsatJou, (u haviii]^ bran the eleiuent ui which their political
«Dd moral r«UtioM bftT* at all tioiM boM developed. We ven} led to

rk of thu BulnMt by on allusion to the ehomb wings \atvly cUccd by
IsTKelltM of Pm^e, o»er the holy abrine of tlie tableU of th* law. I
obierred that thcu wtnf^ an|>car<rd to am very iQcom|)lete witliout tli«
bodies of the angolt. Thjs tiiey told mc, odd atid all, was arecnaric that
noDii but a Christian would have thought of uuikiiig ; tlial to tlieni stuii
Sigana of angels would bo nu obominatiaii, nid tliat wlt«i»ei-er tlioy en-
<ered a Chnttiui church, with iu Dtctnrca and atatues, they felt inu4h ae
thar fotttfatltera uuit luvc felt wboa ibcy enteral tlui tccnpU* of the
fceatbaiu.

From the rabbi's hon^e Riy Jewish irieitdfi condiietMl tne totjieir oouucil-

■ liOQae, erected by tlw Umelite MeiMeh of whrnu 1 liavv nhfndy Ji>okt?n. In

'ihia building is pnavrrcd the sadeDt eliarter of tlie cMiiimiitiity, which lias

I lieen si^na and coufirtiKvl by fjich of the cuipeiors aitd emprewM of

AuMtria. This charter l» prcM-rvcd m aa iovnluiililv trea«ire, and yet I

fcelivvc tlu; only privile;(n granted bv it arc such aa ^waccful eul^ectfl OUg^

to enjoy, without n>i|uinn^ llie security of the sign maaual en their Mf

fweipu — oamoly, the tolemtioa of lh«r rtlijcion, and the pcTini«8»on to

exist. Prom the tunvt of this council-houM tlio whfdtt Judtnatadt loay be

eurvermi, bounded oD one ude t^ water, and on tlw other bv a row of

Chrieruan churches. From thia turret may be teen all tlie Jowuh stfCetJ,

■warming wtlli Ix-gKan. and all tlis wretched roofs uador wliicb so many

fiinni of wretchedneM creep for shelter. As I cawd on nbal I knew to

be the aoane of so much auil'ering, the words of uie prophet Baruch came

iato my miod :

I Tbcrefbtv tlw Iionl liatli made ipood liU word, whidi Iw pronnvncod arainst as.
andagainst uiir jiiil|n-« tliut jwlBcd txrad, auil against uur kiligs> anil nipuatt vU
fxincea, M)d agunst the mm of Ismt] iunI Jui&h.

9 Ta tekig upoe as Kre«( |>lsm«*. nch ns neivr lunMOBd nniler flie wIioIb
baann, as it eaae lo pass In Jmuideai, aa»raiag to the uua0i tJiat wee wrlttMi
InthclAwuf Moacs;

3 TtutantaasluiildnU thcfl(wlioriiisowti*on.>ndltieflealiaf liUowadauslitcr.

i Uoreonr fce hath iMlvcrvd ihcm In Ik- in nihJiTiii« lo itll i)k kieiplwn s tbW
•R rvuad abeut ua, l« te u a prprnwih rarl ilrmiluluin aiuoiift uil lliC pMl>le tMnl
about, wlien tbe Lord bath ecBUcrvd them.

ft Tbus we wars cast down, utd lut exalted, tecauie wc ban shmul against toe
Lam oor Ood, Bad have net iNwn otK-dknt unto bis voictv

Biiam, diap. tt.

It ■• tnelaneholy to tliink that tliis desmptioo has continued true thnngh

POPULAB SCENES IK PIUCCE.

eenCiiri«fl, «n>! applici ev«n nt tbo prewMit dnv to t3ie eoofitioo ct Ilia
lar&clitea in evciy henwph«n! and ia erery laua.

1K>PULAR SCENES LV PRAGUE.

Tlie Auitriittu tav oT tlie BolMTniona (tlint t> (a ny, of the. fjeouine
Tiliwkli.*). tiint i)Ky m« iiin^iable of nbandoaiii^ themselves to Bny thins
liku n frank, cheei-ful gmietj'. their leniiier bniij^ lutuially gloomy ana
rescrvftJ, witli atcndenoy towards melanclioiv. Thia judj^ent respwrtinjy
the BnbaniiiUis is ao utiivcnidly nJopUKl \ty the <^ti«triaii>, that there oiust
l»e aomn ^unilntiun fur it, for there is nlway^i mme truth in thi; M>ri«^nve
whielt one nation pttssea on another. Vie vil) not at pimenC inquire lionr
th« Au^tmo* caxae to adopt »ueh an opiniuu, for oiir buaness u at ])rvs<i»t
nitlier with fiicT.* tliim s[i(ii'tilii(ioii« ; niul n* fiir iw iJin city of Prayue ia
coTii'cmoil, th<! mminorit i>f tlio pco[>Ki Iimh* lici*!! no ilt'i*iil(Hily Gcniuiriixed,
or fath« Aintrianicf^, that tlie provinoial dictinctiong iwt whiph I hat«
hintfcl are not likely to appear \fiTy evident to « Btranircr. A German
amrinjj at Prague feels himself ia an Austrian oily ; he heara everyvrhero
the Auairo- German dialert ; tnottU nt ercrj* turn «nme .tpodmen of Aus-
trian |*ood-huinour ; and in the popular sconce tlmt prcsctit tlicntivlvvd M
hi« notice, he wiU recognise the chiiriictrrittic gaiety of the liuniblcr clamef
ofVitniia; nor will he, for aome time, even deto<rt the niodilipationt
wbieh till- miuincrs of Vienna 1u«-d undergone in their traiisplantation to

Ptatr"*"-

I was one dnv parsing tliroiigh the atreets of the latter city, ntud «aw a
hou«4.-dor>r «tuiKling oi>en. Musie ttiid song were sounding from within.
I itogifiifd, and saw in the courtyard a boy with a b it m^l -organ, p]a\ing «
Bohemian Pnlka, and tivn pretty girls were waltzing along the hntl and
■round Uie cuurtyiLRl tt> tho an^anijiaiiiTiK^iit which chanco liiul thus pro-
vided. Their danco wiu gracuful niid spirited, and I continued for some
time to look at and enjoy the Kenc. As I went away, 1 endeavoured ia
viuii to rointinibor having uvar seen tlia like, from th« slr«et, in any other
^at citj*.

Another dav I went to the FSrhrri/url (Dyers' Island), to close the day
agreeably by liicening for a whili' r.) tliw pveuing music of the grL-ntidi^rs.
I came unfr>rtiinatoly, too lat«, for hpf.iro 1 reached the Spert gardeu, I
met tb« bond ou tlicir return. They rtiarcheil nlmig ttie hnmd mad of ths
iatand. playini; a lively ^r. Thiit nU-eady plnunl me. I hid vlsi^whvre
leen military bands break up, but they wont home singly; here thoy wpre
niuching homeu-ard in i»il)tiu-y order, and giving i>ue tune more for Uie
benefit of thv public This made a» Bgreeabie iiiiiwv-Mion on me. But
now for tile manni^r uf their mareh. liy their riiJi' wmit some five or six
boy* with torches, and in front of the banil, along th« broad Jc^el path of
iJm; ia^>uieii;»de, souie ten or twi-lvc njciTy couples were ilancing away lus-
tily. Tlio band wen; playing one of fitraiiss's waltzes. These daaceis

were not merely children, but grown peojile were among them, whirling
" iping, "' ' '■ _
•y gitrknil* wreatliing thenisr'Uirs nnnmd the huge trunk of wnio

were not merely cinuiren, nut grown peoiiie were
and tripping, in froliuwnte mood, around the stiQIy
flowt-ry gftrknilt wreatliing thenisr/iirfrs nnnmd tni

marching soldiers, liko

tinift-honoiireil mi>tiar(^h of the forert. Tlic beanded grenndien mean-
while, >ocm«d to enjoy the gaiety of their youthful altwidiiuts, and tli«

POPULAR RCENEit IN PRAGUE. 57

jnwc mrn-ily thcw daiicttl. the more luntily the olLcrs blovr swaj-. Tile
yiiiing girli seemed iudelAtip;Tible, Tot if one pair gave in, oiiother was ture
to iieue from the •econMnivinj*' crowd ana join the ilnn<<ert. Thus the
inarch proceeded tiluug tlic whole prtntKiiodo of the Farl>erinerl, and vnxr
the hndgf which cnnnecU the ialund witli tlie mainland, wh«r9 the
rou^hiK't;! nf the pHvemont put an end u tho hall. Hera was aaothe*
popular scetur that I thouj^lit welt wortl\v of bi-iiij; enj^ren on my Jne-
mary, aiic) I wotiM fain huve had a |ra!iit«r iil huml, to presfrrc a copy of
what aiTunlMl me s» much plc*!urp to IwiV i>n. " This is Tcally a irmnrit-
kUe ictmo, " «aid 1 to my companion. "It is an ovety-day one hnv,*
me bia reply.

That tlie Bohemian* are [ia>iHoi)ar^1y rmiJ nf mtiaic. danve^ and «onf^, is
iindoubt«dly true. 80 faraa rnunic it conrcmod, th<> wnrld haa long been
tware of the fact* for Bohemian musicians ar? to be niot with, not only i&
•11 parts of Europe, but some hiireeven wandetvd witli the RusHiang into
Siberia, to tlir *cry continwt of the (Jhitiese i-nipir* ; other* linte of late
year* a4.'c<»ni|ian)cd tlic Fnmch to Alpcrs ; aud «mi in Syrin and Egypt
B»h'-iiiinii bands are ]ii>tened to with pleasure. Of their foiidnens for
dancu and »on^ I hod daily opportimities of cnnvineinj^ myedf while at
Pngtie. 1 met with dancen where I could never haTc expected them, and
where I fhould not havo met nith Uiciit in any other country ; and song — •
ay, and well executed — 1 was daily hearing from cellar*, from Kcnonta'
hallf. and upon the public Btrcet. Aa to music, not die lowest alehoiue
ill tJie I'itv is without it.

TIie»e low alehou*e» again have quite a difiV-rent air from tho.«e of tlie
large citi(>f that liorilur on Bohemia, — sudh atlienl aliout thrin. L«t
an euttT for inatanc^e, one of the many beerhouses about tlio cattle-inarlcet
of I'raguo. They consist mostly of lar^ rooms or lialls on the ground
floor, and arc niglitly filled with menr ^cst«. The enttancc i* jtvncrelly
taalvfuUv Ktlomcd niih biaiiclics of hr or other cvcrgraem, and tlic walla
of the room are nficn tajie^lriiiJ in tlie same way. n«n and there you
may see some neat iirhours Ktted up in the courtysrda. which are illuminaiod
at ni^bt. 8nturduy», Sundays, and Moiiduya, there u music tn all these
house*, and tn many of them nx\ the other days also, and music of so su-
perior an order, that I ofteu woiideri'd where so much musical tnleiLt cniiid
come &om. Thc»e itinerant orcheatriu of Uobemia, I was told, had much
improved of late yeiirs !n conseriuenn' nf tJie n-vohitiou rffcct*-*! at Vienna
by StnmRs, Tanner, Lihitiki, aitd tht> other composer;, bo popular among
the dancinj^ work). The compositions of theoe eentlemen require to be
plavcd « ith remnrltable tinnness and {Kecisino ; ana ehcntgli 111 snnw reapectd
their intlueiire niiiy have operated ti-iy unforttmatcly, yrt I Ix-lieve it lias
had the t-ffivt, by exciting; enitilation amon^thc inferior clme of mttrieians
in Bolicmio, of rouidng them t" jucreosed efforts to improve thcnuclvcs.

Nor is it an uncommon thing;, in tlie heerhousM of Prarue, to 6nd
dngers who necompany themfielrca on the luirp. lliey have m ^nernl a
very varied collection of son^ and mvlodies, and a muneal eollector mif^ht
£sGO*er many that would be new to ttie world at larj^. Their eon^ are
sometimes German and sometimes Uoliomion. and many that I Itesnl were
evidently popuUr favouritei, for I could M>e that the waiters and the gueM
knew ilie w«>rds by heart, antl fnqtivntly joiner) in choms. .Sometimes,
the wliole assembly would suddenly uitemipt tlioir eonvemtiou, and ae-

rOFCTLAB SCENES IX PBAOVE.

wmfuay lh» nogot with u Mvt of wild onthmiiuni. The gin^r had
ffMMnlfy • t»U« Deferc him in Um centro of tbv nmai, mmI on this table
WB little fiilea of co|>]>er Amizm accuinulated fut, for almoct ererr guott,
fu he left the looni. )l«pMited his oJTcnnjj; tuiftiked. llKse sro CnflM, no
doubt, but I believe liuim to be pcculsir to I'niffur, and tb»r sffiwd Mt
iufligfat inlo tint lorv »( ooog aiul muaic nhicb pomidw m flnnyn ia
Somcua.

It Manu stnuige to me, tb«t after Tenian lad Ortodft hare imnoruUMd
tbe boorish dances, tlie Itrolwii boMles the black eyes, the toni hair, and
tlw r«d BanloliJi aoam of th« Dutch gin-shops, and that bo deli^tfuUf,
that princes think theraMlvm happy in having one or two of tlieee oomm
tmcchunolian pctum ia their dniwtn^ rooms, — it dgcuiu 8ltan|;« to rac,
I say. that none of our iiiodimi |islnl«« «hiiult1 tuv^ atcomirtad the tat
DHiro |HK-li(Uil nnd eliiirurU'ristic coonss that tav of daily o<wurrano» ia ooe
of th€«0 bct'i boiniM (.<f Prague. Ims^ne the crondcniiiug the oential figme. the guesta jt^iiiiny; in
chottu. the waiters with their mii^ iif bwr miatcliing u|> a rnifriiiciit of
th4> tfag u thev Itiutm fmm mir customor to tuiotbM' ; the jolly wolUfed
Iwst moving; witxi dipiity tlirongh his little world ; Dor must wc for^t the
■talk at the door for tJie nle of bread and sauM^ea, for the i-ender of beer
CttppliKi not tliese^ )i« nunist«re anly to l)lc thirst of hi« tuiten, and thoM
vrlio would wlisfy tbcir hungvr muat briii;; tbcir viandi witli tbcni.

Ercn the ool1vc*housM, wliicb arc iintnbiTloM in Prat^uo, nheiru ia
Dresden there are none, liarc many peculiarities ; but lliey nro all fashioned
after Austmn niodeU, of wbii-li I sludl liuvc tn'ouioii to «pc«k liervancr.
X coming from the nortli, wm struck by fix brilliunt nuutocr in which
tbcM places wun> lighted. I c\nil(l not ut first penmade rnvMlf that tba
rooDW wore not iUuniiuat«d with gas. The fact », the people hero niider>
aland the manaffaneut of u«l Iauius better lliau in any other {iiu-l of Ger-
many. Somatuu^ of tliti, I beheve^ is owing to the superior (juitLity of
the oil.

" So, now w«*rc to be bored ^ont lamp-trianninf* !" methinka I hao-
■omc- of my fiur readrn uxrluni. "IVtty company you take us intot
Firtt yuH uitroduc« lis to girls that go dancing about the ttri't'ts, boaroa
knows wliy ; then to the beer-bibbcr* of tho cattle market, to tti« tobaooo
JuDies of the coffee- bouses and — " No farther, my fair censor, pray.
DoM your name hn|ip)-ii to bo Anna, or Annette, or ^Vnclien, or Aiinetl,
Uaney, Nannotte, Nnnnorl, or Nettchen ? for so far as the .\u>triiui ^acla
atretcDcs its wings over the fur sex, tlitvo aa.:uvs all paH» for one and Uie
aante. If any one of these names thtm bcloiig to you. I congratulate you.
fi:>r in that c<ue you are most premtn^y sad kindly invited to die ff>stiv&I of
St. Anno, cc-k-brat^ this day in tlie chamiiug Moldauiusd. aud there it
will be my agreeable duty to intrfiduce you into very weU*bi«d and agrve-
ahlc company, in which you will find all tlw pretty Annes of Pragiiey
S crowd worthy of all admiratioii, and «berc you will find tlw popular
manners of Prague presented to you in a totally dilferent pinnt nl' view.

&t. .<\nne'B day is one of tlia most dUtiuguiiheil populsj fostivalB in all
paru of the Atutrian dominions, but nowli«rc ore tiic Anncs made mor*
of than in Pragno, This holiday fidls on the £{itli of July, and on the
preceding evening ev^ry street-comw is tapesliied with urgent inntiitinns
to fi^stiviti^ of every de«criplion. The tavern keepem and other mA.tt«FC
of tlie rvvela are vaiul^nu lu theix d»criptiou» of tho bnlliiLut preparatJans

POPCI.AK SCENES IN I'lUOCE.

truulc hj them for the ontctUumnont of sli tlia pretty Abiwm to Pngito.
One addreucs hiciuclf sinifAy to lliu *' beautirul Audm," anotJieT to tlw
" cbatnting Aiia«8 of the Bgliemiau c^tal," a third b«wU hn jilavkTd
with an inToeiition to tbe "bif^lily re<;pected NonDcttc*." Accomio^y*
wbfu, utt the aU-importoat day. tiiu hato^ mis idieds his iUumiaatiiifr rays
on tliP (Tomera of th« ttreeU of Prsgtxv tfaoM pretty maidens far whan
ihoT gntlmothprs haye takuii th« ncoeoary vare, may behold thoir Kted
Bane luuili; gloiioiu iu vvUow, blue, aud ml Ivttcra, in Latin, Gotliic, and
Oennau cliamvtcn, a»u may see tbemMlvM inrtted to radi a cnuotlMi
mtinbvr of dinners, lupnen, brMkluta, mral exonraona, bolla^ aad illumi-
naUoiw, that it must Moly pQxil« tbem to d«t«niiine to which of so maay
kindly talicitine adiiiiren they will estend their a|>]>n>Tii>g'cnu]e9.

Tlw bMutiful Fiirhfriitael is always die cbitrf uoint cif attmrlion ou tills
Aty. Thi« ialand, porlinpc one of th« tnott beautiful placoa of public rceort
in all Gcnoany, ia not Wgv^ of an onX fwin, about 1 50 fatlionu long, and
loo liiiliQtna brood, is aunounded by the rapid wat«n of Mia Moldau, and
pivxciiti iu vinterx with a «oaiplebe Paiinmma of Prtif*un nnd it« hl!l<. To
tho ii)^bt you sea from the Farifrintei the old city, to tlie left tbo Iliad-
shin anil the KleiriaeUe ; behind risca the Visscbrad, and in &ont lies the old
Mtddaii bridge. In the oentn; of the i&land are tome elegant builtUnj^,
«hMb Btood open all dur lon^ for the «atcTtiuDuicut of stran^n. Iu Uw
tear of dtmp bwldiog«, no mIio feci!) Iiimself disposed for sc^lcntary enjoy-
meut, will Bud abtniasDce of beuclii's und tables laid out under ttie canopjr
of ht^ •prcadit^ tr««a, and a tribune «rect«d for tbe atwommodatioQ c£
ma omiertra will aeldoai be found unoccupied. Ou both aide« are path^
vhieh wind off ainoi^ p^nj^ota aiid btuJuf, and ii» St. Anne'a dar*
«vmF place u bun;^ witli wreatlia and garlandt, with tit-n and th«ra trt*
nmi'liBiit aidiee, illumiuatcd at tiight, and dtvorated with cotoMal A's
and N's,

Kariy in tho moniirif^ the host who Saraa the bridfre tliat lends to thic
chatroittj^ little iiland, liu already takcji a mora coiudderaUe t^ll than is
tWCcitMl during Uie whole twenty •lour hours on any other day in the year;
for the luiuic, on St. Anne'a day, begins ac sunrise, and clooes not till tbe
tnooo has vanithod on the foliAi^ioj; night. The greatest tliroiii;^ is
betwM-n tiw and s«Tcn in tbe aEbenioana bnt tho more wiftocsaUo of
tile ^Vnnes generally Tetire on tbe Grrt appearance of tha nooD aod
lanipliglit.

Tliu afU-moon on whicb I found mywlfln the Furttrimtt, iu houour
ot tho distinguished day, wa« broun-d by the moat deliglitfii] weather.
Tha lair avx wens iu a m^ority of two to one^ owing, uo doubt, to tli*
BMt number of Annas with whom Pracue has from time tnunemonal bewi
Ueoaed. The pliice was amall and ihe crowd great, so graat that ths
vintan could do litlie else than more in slow |>ruceaooo obog the braai]
wallc which endrdea the island.

*' 1 can Doufidenlly say that I am not what is goocrally called an eit-
thunaet," said a friftid who accompanied roe, as we pluufped &om the
little bridge over the >loldau, into thia Nream of life and beauty, *■ but it
dots Bvcra U> me ad if iu the whole ooune of my life i had iierer been
KDTOundad hy w> many angeb' bead*, bv so many graceful forms, or byn
many beautiful Cuoa." — " It is truly a bewitebbig sneelacle," was my an-
swer. Wc now ptoceoded to st^ui the curreiitt that we might aoinire
the fair promcoaders at greater Icisurv, and without maluag uso of tho

roruLAJt scENns in praoce.

aligtitast hyperbole, I was obliged to own t)iat iM-vcr in mj Ufn had I seen
60 auwnificeDt & duplfty of besuty. Ono invch' far fnll^twi^i onnlher in
auiok taeoeaaitm, nua ervn 1, dull and tinexcilalile as I \invc oi^cu btvn
obl^«d to dmm niy«olf, could nol rc-sbt the uilltience of the scene, and
titf fnthiuiuni witn which 1 fo.lt in\*ii«lf itiipircd, nnu to me the host pfoaf
that the spectacle hu one of unusual beauty. Like Xcrxo at the H<-llcs-
poDt, when cnnt£iupUliii^ hi* nuraerou* array of sotdien, I could have
■bed a tear at tlic tnau^ht, that all the loveliness before ine was destiued
t9 be tJio prov of Tinic and DvAtb.

That the htUe u^lr. •qiialliagt rcd-Esoed nraturcs (for all ncwlj-boni
babies are alike) Bboiud gton up in Pra^e into suizli ramnrkably beautiful
girla, is one of those phonomeria of nature whk'h 1 cannot take upon
injMilf t<i r3|ilaiii. Simic litLvo attiibutcd tin- fiu-t to ilie mingling of
German witli Sliivoiiian blooJ, but this the Slavonriui* pmtent a^raitiM itu»t
loudly, tellinff yon tlat in the Tllln;^ of the interior, whtiro no Much tnis-
ture of the races liua tokfii \}\iim, much finer »i»ecimeiu of female beauty
are to he fouiitl, llian in imy iif the frontier distnru. The aiem!>ers of the
Bolwmiui Patriotic AMonntioii boast, inorfoicr, that hy far thft rieheat
display of beauty it to be scon at their balU> nben: nothlitg but Bohtniian
is ever spoken, and where, consequently, the bulk of tlie company must be
eenniQe Slavonian; nay, even the fnr-faraed beauty of the liungarlan
uidiei is attributed by thtuie Eeoloiis patriotii to the mixture of Slavonian
blood «-ith that of the oiiginal races. The tlicorv it not one that 1 would
at once reject as absurd. On the contrary, I often fancied, iu the cuurM
of my mbsequeiit wandering, that I fsw rc'a§ori (o believe there wa« sorno
grouod for it. Be this, howovcr, ns it Kiny, Prujjue u dccitiedly a very
garden of beauty. For the youog ladies of 1641. 1 ain ready to ^vc my
testimony most unresen-edlv, and many an enraivtuiTd traveller bus left us
hw books as living witufsses to l5n' IvveUnvs* of tJie gnindinotliers and great
grandmothcra of the pn-jt-nt generation. The old fhriinii'ler, llaiuiiitT-
■chinidt. and his caiit«nipnrune«, dwell with Mpml {ilcnjiini; on the xweet
fit C C B that ainiled upan thont in their d&y!i, and tho pii^ttine gatlery of ninny
tt Bohemian coatle U there to te:itify to the truth of tlieir statements. One
^taess there is to tlic fact, whose right few will question to decide on such
a point. Titiait, who studiod lhi» faces of lovely women for ninety-aix
jrears, and who, while nt tlic court of Charles V., ipent five vears in
Germany, tells us, it was nmonc the ladica of I'ra^e, that he fournlltiis idial
of a beautiful fein;jde head. If we f^ hack beyond the times of Titian, we
bavo th© declaration of Chtu-lc» IV'. that Prague was n horlus drliciariiia,
and whoever has read tlie life of that emperor, will scarcely doubt that,
beautiful women niunt have been included in the deliphu of a oa|ii-
tal so apostTonhixGd. Xay, the timo-honoured nobilitv of tho l>onuty of
f n^e, may be said to go back oven in the earliint tradition, wlieio we
nod it colebrabod in the lefri-ndu of I.i1iu««a and Vlaitta. and the countless
longs composed in honour of the Urrii/ StamttsAr or Tahekhtan daiati'ls.

1 iiwTi I am still at a loss to conceive how it waa poe»iblo fur Pntcinyal
to njcct tlic overtures of liia fair Bohemiai]*, and how he coidd find it in his
heart to wage agunst them the borbaron* war that luu since become so
famous in history. I am not at all sui^uised lliat hi* 6r«t eut«rprisea n^inst
tfiun dlifnild hnvf been marked by such aingular failure. ] am suio that
if tint twit thniiMuid Kancies and Nannettes whom I saw aj(.«embled on the
^drberinKiJ had taken it tuddeuly into their heads to get up ui 'mxairve-

THE NATIONAL MOVEUEXT AMOKO THE BOtlEMUHB. 61

Uon, and iotrmch Uu'ituelvM witliin thr:ii liltlo uliind, any army Hal the
c»ip«Tur could haro ecat ngramt tliem, wcmlil hare been much iiiore Mk^y
Ui siiin>iid«r at duovdati to the besieged, thau lo tum their munI<>roii4
artillery againet eaeb a garden of loreliueis, nr ta flo^li tliou- bn^lit guonld
auionf tlic Yieiin& sb&wU bimI Frcudi mUu tb^t wero paraded so bewitcli-
inglj' UL'forv myvyt-s.

By tbotiine that, gtrniming this lide of beauty, we bad niiidc tbo rotind
of ifie Uland 3i>m« tbree or four times, niglit IiaJtitijIcn upon us, tbouj^li to
do bim justice, Ilelins was in no burry to run away from eo fair a scene,
but wcomvd to liiigf-rlonn-, unwilling todrnnrt, befure bo could make upliit

^nitid to eotwjg^ liimsclf In the aoeuttomca omhinces of Tbetis. The (irc-
vodu had to wiiil Ions before it wu sufHciviitly diirk far the pn>per dii>
piny of tite rockeU and Chinas fire that were itit^ndcd In blue in hononr
of the Any, attd whcti they were let oiE, they turned out to bo very little
irnrtliy oi being waited fur ; but tbc music of tlie Bohemian poUeu and
Tfdorah compensated for the failure of the fireworki. The whole fe«tirtty
dosed with a " iplendid supper," at wliich I found it impossible, cith«r tn
money or fair vrcrdit, to obtain the sb^itvat particlo of any thing to oat or
drink.

From the delightful prtiincnadc of tlw FarlfFriiuety I went to one of the
pojiular balls, given at the twelv*^ danciiig-roouis at Prague. Th«w rooma

I .aie never clixhld «a Sujulays 'ir hoUdays, but on tlii* day they had reeom-
nwnded thvinielves to public fnTuur with even niore tlinii wi>iited oasiduity ;
I extended my pBtronage to an vstablL^hnu^ut nf wliii^h the hntt recom-
mended hinuoli by a hwliug of " VciuTatiou for all Kanucttca." The
clajucii repreaented in tlib ball -room belonged to the huntbler section uf
tlib* middle orden, and I am sorry to b« obliged to own that I found neither
tlia Bohemian boauty nor the AustnEiii merriment that 1 had looked for.
Tlierc is something repulsive in the ini)>i«&ii<jn produced by on assemblage
in nhich no find the costume of t!ie cultivated classes copied with great
preciaoD, but from whieh the mauwn and eonversAtiou of rcfioM] lifv are
euttrciv escluiW. In pr)[iortiuu as the £aahii>r)« and halnio of the great

rtn imitated by the little world, will all ongiuality, chrerftdiiess, and tiiD,

MM extiipated from among ub.

TOE NATIOXAl, MO^T.MENT ABIOKC THE BOHEMIANS.

One of my 6rit wnllu In Prague was to a Tsltck)iia.n bookshop, and lo the
Museum of the I*alriotie AiBocialJon. I was atixious to see what new bloi-
■uiiis the Bohemian true hod iJiot forth, and what auciunt fruits it had garner-
ed up, Hie kIiod in which tlic literary novelties of Bolicniin are nfTcrvd to a
putrottizing public, is situated in a narrow gloomy lane, and the niuii who
owns Uie shop, and is the cliief publisher of modem Bohemian literature, is
a CennoiL Ilia aliop is Nniall, hut is ofti^n visited by tlie young patriots, —
Uie advocate*, the «tudent«, aud the literati. — who go there to turn over
Ul BoboTnian, IIljTian, Polish, and RuMiaa books, and *amciime« to buy
a. AW these Slavonian languaee) are at present studi'cd with groat
by tlie Dohemiaa patriots; aiia it ii a tingular coincidence. (Iiat in
[SuxKia, ftljo, there is at present quite it mgc fur lb« study of Bohemian.
^oUsh, and Dlriian. For Rusuan buoke, I wot told, there n'os a ire<iuont.
emand, but lu«y were diffiaiJt to ohlain. It lias long been ctutomary

02 TtTB TKArtOTTki, TSffTTXEVT AMOTTO TITE BOBEMIAJIS.

amon); the jnunj; me<a Dt Praf^ue to atniy Rtusun, vhu;]! tbejr acqaira
with fittlc trouble, &nd irliirh tnotiv find of great Mdvuitag*. number* of
TOinw Bobemian pimdmiw enufpnting vMrly to Rnans, wlwrv tliiiir
fUnltuiCT with the slnvoniiin lancuagn (srilitstM their ndTDncemtrrtt."

BohtTtnian litcrftture worlct for tJic eiilJehteninuiit nf four ooimtnus : Bo-
liemU, Moravia, n part of Sileoiii, aim tlie country of the SloraJa in
Buoj^nry. For thU rensoii tlto B<»h«inu«) inunftlH (tliu VTastimit for in-
fltancc) point to the fow com«r» of th» worlJ, or mow propwlj^ to the four
oomon of the paitcr, with the four words : SJezan, — Czech, — StumJi,-^
Jforavntty — (tlw Silvcion,— the ik)h«iniaii, — th« StovBk, — aiul tlio Mo-
zart&n).

Among' the new pahlieationfl of 18-jI, I wu shown the SemM Sad, or
the Old Law of Bohetnift. The Aiutriao wnsors were lonjr before the^
could be indtH^ tA luxori th« Jmprimatur to thii work, on aeeount of
some severe articled which it contains &|*aJii*t tlio Gcrraoiu, but the ccnsor-
•lop is beoominjr more indnlgnit non, and, with a fi^w omisnonj, lh» book
hu been nllow^ to wnlk forth inbs tbo world . Tho Uohcimjuu, iben&nc^
may a^^nin nng in the word* of the famous old poenit the Judgment of
Libuua :—

Fluuiicful twcni from flcuniina' liiw» to borroir.

Laws HC lis*!? uuThvItv* uf liuti* nliitutv

Uraught in da; ■ of yon bj our good tMium
Tu tUia laud of bk.iujug.f

Twenty yGom ago,, nay, fifteen yean n^ tlic Ht^tmture, that u the
lirittff literature of Bohemia, was perfectly iniignificant. At th.it, lime
little WM spoken or heard of the Ii^Uvoniaua liwng nndpr Gorman iloinina-
tioo. Some of our travvlluni of tliv last ciiulury curried their Biniphcity »
far, as to exprest oirprisfl in their printed b<nil(», at finding tlip country
people of Bohemta speakiof^a dialuct altoi;et)iertimiif«'lligililc Ion Cti-rman.
Some very learned people Iiad ouly au iiiilutjuct uotloii, that in »oitic parCV
' of Gennany thu |>r>pu1acioT) waf> of Slivimian origin. Boliemi»n Utrrature^
in tlio nioiuit.ittii-, hiulsunk to a U'vcl iilHiiit na low a* tliiitof the lA'IU'naad
K«thonia.n8 in the. Bulljp pro^-incw of Itu«*ia, and wa« ponfinwl almoKt cx-
cliaivcly to popular ballads. Things have chanpcd since then, and tho
Bohcmiani go «o far now aa to talce it very much amisa when they read
in a German hook, that " Prapio in one of tlin moM interesting towns io
Germany." TIio cuckoo, tlicy soy, mi^tit juBt as n ell call the neat ha
otvn, from wliich hci has just expelled the linnot. as the Germans
call Prague a Gonnan city, net-in;; it was biiilt by the Tshokhs; but
here I would humbly remark, that tho cuckon «o«Id pUy a lets ndiouj
part in oar books on natural history, if after taking poMcasion of nnothcr
bird's nest, he were to embellish and beautify it as the Germans Imve done

* TlicTarious SluYnniiu) (luk-ds I'RuBsiun, Piiliah, nulieininn, riTrion, &c.) ticar
•0 Strang a rcicmtilaiit'L- U> vudi uihcr, that tbc puunutv of one of these mustrioi
can imuLlly mnko. biniMV nndcnCaod to thOK ot nil tlie ivat. 'Flic Rrninmalieal
aC'luirerDcitt nf t)ic KuMlan langoogc tnuM, thcrelare, be an «€My toak to a wi>U-«da-
catcd Bohcniiiin. — TV.

t Eoliemlan poetry, Itka that of moat nf tlu Slaronian InnsunsM, fs Jectitoti! of
rhyme, a dcfldencT the leaa ftlt on Mconnt of the lUstJnct mcuiiro of time wtilcli
prcTolb ill the Bononlan verd*. and vhich mokes it mon; casjr to aSapl ihi- Itomna
•nil Oieek rhytlun to the Ycnlflcatkni oC this thta «f any vlher nivilixu laD-
gaago^TV.

TOE NATIONAL MOVEMBXT A3I0XG THE BOHKUIJLXS.

hy Png;ue. The fact u, tlie wholo of Bohemn is itUl a disputed tcrritoiy
. MtwNii tha Gvimnns nnd the SIavotu»i>t. The Genuuis mninUuii it wns
taigiuHly a G^rmui land, or, at l^ut, thnt it wu islnlHtcd hy the Gei^
nuuiH four liitiiflrctl jetn before tlie 'Ctht-klis came into the country ; bat
tlie Tahi^klM (_»c« F^Axk^'it Wmnty iil' lloliciiiia,) say — " You Gennatu)
looJc tlip rtwintry Prom ihn (ioyrw, anil held it Ijy no other rieht than that
of the Bword. Uv the swonl you won it, aitd hy tbe Bwora you lost it
sgsin, anii for rigfit hundred yean we heM ic ngalnft jou." To thij wo
CiiTouinR may tvply ' — " Bui we have af^ain won the masteiy of the lanil
from j-on with the sword, and wv bare tiiumpbed over ynu y«t luoro by
the eufrr^ of our civiliiation. Here are two swordu for one, and as
■Dcient and modem lords we hsTc the most perfeot rij^ht on our ride ; bo
wt shall continue to call [ioliomia a <!«mutn land, in H^ht of our aword,
OMT ciTiliBilion, and our industry, — a German land, in wliich tht; tnlrudiit^
Xihekhs are condemned to plough our fields."*

Till Terv lattlvi there hnd edsted no good Bohemian dtctionary; but
thi> waiit liM now bvcn aupplk-d by Mr. JuDraaon, who, though '« Ger-
nun by name, ia faid to Iw a very sealoui Botieaiian patriot. His die
' tionary was the work of sevi^ral years, and has been published at hU own
[expense. Ue is wen eaid to have sold a vineyard, lu drfrav tlie coot of
[itei undertaking'. The puhlieation coimnenced in 163€v atid u now com-
plete. 1 was nut so inticli tttrjirtMid at ths McnfieM made by the patriot
scholar, as at tbe backwardness of other patriots, to astist Um tn his
nndeTtak!n||r. One might almtut be led aom this to believe what a Bo-
hemian once *aid to me, in spenkiiig of the great movement and uxeite-
meat among tho Roliomian pi^Ats.

" It is a hind of luxnry," said he, " in rtluoh » kvt idle yoong men in-
' dulge, and in which they aTeencotimj^ by the profi^Mirs and anti(|uaries;
DC it in no movement origiiintin^ in thewant^ or emanating from the
risbo^ of the pc«pk. All that is emiuent mt)i ui is Cremian. Our moo
edocaljon read Schiller and Goethe in preference to any other miteni ;
■rery official man, down to the hmnbleitt clerk, writes and spealcs <i!ennan t
' as every Bohemiiui feels tliat he cannot get on in the world without
linnwli'ilire (if Gemun. he leek^ to li-am it him;ielf^ and teaoh it to liis
rohildnm. and has no time to trotiblp himtN-lf about th« fantasUe visions of
the t'ahekliian patHota. Befades, tha Gerninn lan)>itage is taught, fjp-
of^cui, in every whool, and many of oar gentry do not even undcmtand
Uiu patois of tlie country. \\*ith all tl>p»e mighty agents at work, what
avail tlie efforts of n fiiw emhiiriaHbt ? The govemmi-nt, m««nwhiler feels
itself itiong enough to let the Tshekhion portv go their own way. Fo-
reigner*, moreover, ar« deceived, if ihcy attribute to politics all that i>
done hero in tliu way of Slavonian inveatigntion. Tlie inqiiirinfr xpirit
of the time, the rp»iT>>d fondness of c\*ry thinj? that tend* to the illuArn-
tioii of antiquity, has letl to ainuliu' efforts in otlier countries, as well as in
Lthittv inhalNanl hy SUivonlans. Every province in Europe has been bur-
»htng tip its rc«>llectj<»i»» ; trfry city liiu been timiing orer the leaves lif

* Bolicnila cia scacoilj b» saitl lo owe mucb dvilbatiou u> <3«f man/. Wlisn the
cmrtrr psMCd uitHcF (ho dasuaetiMi of ^the bousa at Autrin. tticn was no otiur
oiumr y that stood lujrlier in pi\nt at dviBsnibiit. If Uiu Ikiliemions have ilm^e
ftlbn Into tbe rear oftlie " inarcli ori iu pio v e n wnl." Aiutrion opprcarion. oiid par-
tSnitafly the unRlemlne tnrhulty wUb which the t'lutefuuit ivUj^ was utir-
jttiKi, man bear tbe Uame^— 7V-.

04 THE KATIOKAL MOTEMKNT A3fOX6 THE BOHEMUITO.

iU chronicles, and npurinff it* nthednl or its town hwue. Not otJj ihm
SUvuiiwii pruTiocM, Mit mII Um proriiKM o( .Austtia, haTe bmi coUecdn^
thpir MitiqiiitiM, tluitin^ their rKordi, and new bindii^ their dnmidct.
The *Mii« liu bwu d«MM> in the province* of Prussia, and indeed in the
proviiicM of aliiKwt vveiY Eur(it<««a covntrr. We have seen Oanan'a
Uteraturf iVMHtfd frvMn iu lumb in Scotland, and in Gennanv wv han
Mfiii V<>M wntiufr |x^ni« in Ilatt /AnibrA .- wv !■•«« seen Westpbafian,
Saxon, Hiiil ItRvitJ^iibunc AssoriatiDnf. not to speak of hundreds of other

riviiii'ittl >ocit>tU<« : anil thut the &«hion has reached Bohemia at kat. It
iu>t HUv inoliiiKtitw on tbv [>art of tW W«sieni Satoouuk to accept the
ftntt^rtiiintiuii oAVrvd ihent fT\^t the East, ihat ha^ led to all these SUto-
llini) jouriHtl*. )fTatiiniar», diotiimarie;, and ptvlical anthologies In Ci^
Uitil. and VV9U ii) Fraiirt', bix^L» aitd nev$i«pe» hai« been minted in the
IocmI tlinltH't*. and ao in Kumi* havv workj ^a of late pnbfished in Let*
tl«h and blithoiiiai), ltut);ua^:ef t^ wtuch. ioote ^-ear* ago. no cnhiTated
niKii iuihIk luc uiileu |M'rha(i« in thv pul|.<(t. It i$ not to be denied that
Uic proviiiciat, litcmrv, and (latniHic nxxvaieuu in the SlaTooian peoriocae
of Atutria, actjutro a (wouliar (haraeter &oai the niiit of I^nslansmia, of
wliich »o niuvli hai bwu beard nf late vears. jfo naboo, while jct a
bri'atli (if lifo i* in it, betx^me* nvonriled to the lo» of its indepen^Dce ;
and tliiiii)fh th« Ibihcntiaiu. the Storaks. and the other SlaTosians, wonld
di> Uitt«<r to attai'h tlicnuelv«« nkwe and more to the mild s cep ti e of Ab»>
trin. tluiii to itralch out t)i«ir hand$ mtter the qoentionaUe independeDee
wliicit lovini to U> ofivrod them irom the East vet nadona. Eke in£n-
iliuiUi uro not vx^nipt (rwa acts of kHv, prejudicial to others as to tfae^
aolvH t and ftv their own sake, therdore, as wdl as for Aistna's, die
UnliPiiiiaii* must be watvlted. The classes, however, which haie onst
liilluiiiUHi in till.' country*, ure the least disposed to crmpathis with Raam.
'I'hti i'li<r)fy and tlw nowtity know how little ther wmud be Ekelr u> gwn
by KKihiuitfiiiK the ■o\'vre)gntf of Anstna &r that of Rnssa- Beccot
flVKiita in I'oltuul have likewise mocfa contnbated to cod the inihiiiiMni
roniinrlj' niauifMted for Russia. The less instructed Bohemians. i^Aail,
look ii|ioit iimvli tluit they hear of Russia as mere German cahnmues ; hot
tli'MK niiu)iiif ui who stand higher, hare had oppor tni ii t i ee , naoij of d^H,
i>r MH'iiiff with tliuir own eyes. In short, shoold it et«r tfjum to a s u m jI b
iMttwiH'ii tliii Ntavoiiiaii and German elements, the TthMm, m tptte of tMir
aynipntliitii nnd atitipAthies, will be found fig^tiofi; 'fo the nde of the Gcr-
liiniiN, laiil it will bo for their own advantage to do %!>."

Ill tho jiiiiMiiini of tlie Bohemian Patriotic Ass'^ciati'ytt, tm the Hraddun,
wlilllixr I witnt ill ci)iii)iany with a learned and higlily esteemed Bohemian,
iii>tliln)f liitttivNtml mo more than the coUecUou of coins. Though not so
nriini>liit« m tlio Dolioiiiinn antiquaries wish, it ts by far the richest Bo-
liKinmn ciullwtioii in oxistonce, and consists exclusively of national coins,
llioiK niDrrly put into circulation by the Boyera, the Markomans, and the
ItoniAiii, btuiiff vxi'ludcd. There are old Tshekhian coins of a period &r
aittti'tHloiit to tltu Cliriatian era ; these are rudely fashioned pieces of gold,
soinowhat in tlio fonn of modern buttons. In the early period of Chris-
tianity, wlion it was still uncertain whether Bohemia would be brought
within till) iiifluonco of Bysantine or Roman civilisation, the coins of the
cotnitry loem to have had a decidedly Byzantine character. At a later

eiritiil, whoii the Iluiigsrian invasions had cut Bohemia off from the
yzantiuo world, Uie coinage assumed an Italian or r&ther a Florentine

tOrCLAR SCEKE8 IK FRAGCE.

chsmctcr. Oa th« Flonntuie tlucsbi oiiied tn Boticnua, mni7 be eeea the
Ftonrntine St. John, widi & mmll Ituliciniim St. Juhn hy lui side, in th«
same way as dtiriug their revolution of 18^1, the Poles coined Duliih
ducnto, on wLicli a diiiiiuutii e Puttsh Qagle ap^cun by tlie aide of tli*
Bstariiui kiiighu

As w? reach less remote flf^s wo iriftjr obfitrv* alCtrmate ailTaacca and
ntroffressions in the arts. The culth-atcd tigs of Cfaorlci I\'., and tb«
fanatic century nf tho art-destTt>vin^ Iluss'ite^, may be iltitincll^v traced
in Oi« little gUtteriagdaaani and <iucau, dnlkraaml unul^ati. Cnmt may
1ilcewi«e be seen hcn> of all tli« grwit Bohomtan fumilioji that, at >aric>u9
tjtncii, have enjoyed the priTUec«?. Amonp these fontilics tlie most diittin-
guuhed arc the bt^hlicks. the Rosenbergs, and tlie WaJilsteins, or Wallen-
Btebu, a* SchilJer, for tlio «onvenirocc of his rhythm, has tliought prnper
to call thctn. Of the Walditcin family, however, none have exemscd tbs
right of coinage since the days of their great ancestor, of whom some veir
braotifa] gold coins still exist. The Counts of SobUck excrciitcd the |>n-
Titeg* longer tluui ouvotlH-rof the old Bohemian faiotliM. Cobiofa
Tcry recent dale mny bo seen with tbfir effipy- Their celebrated silver
nuura at Joachimsberg were so productive, that in llie begiuiiiiig of the
16lh eentury, th*y winod what were called Joachimsthaier, nihich wt-ighcd
U full ounce, and wliich mav still be found in circulalinii tii RiU'ia, witcro
they are known sonieLuues hy tliu iiante of Tfiateri, and Hotiietimei by that
of Ve^mAi.

A prciiiitir kiiiid tif iJuheiiiiaii cuiiiage are the royal litcfitiipfetiniffe or
counter!. Aniijiig the rfiritnui puhlii- dcjuiiinienti of the Bi>lieniian go-
T^minent, it ROfinN m have Ihi-ii ujmiiU from tlio earliett purind to liavtteni>
ployed, for boJancing public tu:u£niiit«, n certain coin which may be looked
OQ in the light of a copper rcprtscntutiTe of a certain amnuot of gold op
silver. These arbitrnry coirs circulnted only from oito public department
to another. The noble families of Boht'mia appear to nnvo adotltl^<l tliii
custom, and coined similar copper counters for Uic conTcmooce of tlie va-
rious departrnenls of g<i»eninient on iheir nitate^. The coDectian of tha
Pairiotio Association is richly provided with vanoiu (pecinions of tliese
royid and lordly counters.

The fiohcmisn linn, niih n crown on his bead, nith his two tails, and
walking erect on liis hinder feet, is to bo seen on nil Bohemian coins, even
OD niott of those Btmck by the ».jvcrei|fn»ofthc house of Ilababurj^. Uuder
Huia Xh^rvsa tho lion becomes li^s omniprcscut. The latest ducata
that bear the efligy of the royal beast are those of 1780. It was ou tlis
brge silver money that he 6nl reil^^ied hi* crown. On the smaller silver
coins he continual to hold his *tntt.i thmiiffhout the whole of Joawph Il.'a
nigii, but firico then tliv whole coinage has been purely Austnnii.

Of all joyful and deplorable ereiits in Bohemian histnr>'. there seems t«
halt! bce» a denre to preserve the recollection by means ufsihcr and gold
medals. Thus we luive medals of Hew, who, a* the iiucriptions infoniL
na, vu burnt at ConotAnce in vinlation of public faitli. Frederick of th«
^latinate has also not failed to leave goldea and tilvcr moDtunvnU of hi*
brief and dliastxnus sojourn in Bohemia. Close bo these, and adorned witJi
onunous iiucriptioiut lio th? niednU etmck by Ferdinimd on the occasion of
*tii MCgtiinaiy victory on the White Stountain. In honour of the victory,
Peii&ittiid elected on the mountain a church, winch he dedicated to the
yir^n, and tmdcr tlie foundatiO'ii-st(me a very large gold medal wu de-

TOrjTLKR SCEKES IS FKAGUC.

yoBteJ. At a sub>cqumt iwnod, Jom^ demolinlied tlits chiuclit and tin
Bodnl, Wing fcnnd. wu Huut to Pn^iic, »i>d cvnc, b dae tiuic, to the
nuuoum of ^ IVthotic- Aau)d»tiati. On oiip side it a mw of the coo-
queied dtj of Pru^^, over wkwb U wma hovvring Uie image of Maria de
Vielitriu in aUtii Monte, nitli the inscriptioa HeiMite erga quat atat Oaa-
aarix Cattari, tU ijnatsunt Dei Deo. Cliriatlittltf ti>on|^it, when fa* nn>
nounc«d those words, that they voiiUl Ix^cAmo nae day, in the mouth <» aa
inperioua ricbcn', a svhiIk)] of l«rror to miUions of bunion betugs. Ferdt-
bsim], am wc are told, ntv a riuoa t]ie nigfat before thi* baulc Our Sa-
Tioor, it is aud, a|>pcu«d to him in a dream, and mid to him, " Fordi-
tUDd, I win twt ffvsokc thee" To this viMoa alluMoa is made oQ the le-
verM of the medal oa which ii reprcsentMl a cnicitiE. whi-iicc i^ja of lighc
■hine on the emperor, who l£»e«.'U before it, and undemcach am the worda,
*' l-'erdinattdt, e$v te nim davram." It eeems rtmn^ thiit aftvr he had
made lo unchriatianUhc a luc of his rictoiTt our I>ord did not again ^i-
pMr to hiTD in a riaon, and v&y to liim, Std tu, FtrdinaHde, tiu et maot
demrruuli.

AHn- the battle on tho WliiUf Alomitain, Germaiiisni became so ini-
preuwd on Bolipiiiia, timt mnnv Boliifiniun families GermuiiiiMl thv Sla-
vnniao namt-^ they hnd borne till t1>i<n. Thtif tite fnmiiy from «-hieh had
taroed the celebrated St. Jolio of Ne[)oiuuk or Nupomuteitiu, bore uri^-
mll; the Slaveoian nam* Haasl. fC»i)Uiiiuk in a Minall town in Bnliinnia,
and the bivliop, aocordinc; to the faeluon of his duy, was called Jolm H»«dl
of Nepomuk, aud soiuetines, for greater brerity* Joba NepomtUt. AJW
the battle of t)ie White Moutitain, the FtaralH traiulaied Uieir nanie into
GemiAtt, aiid called thenutoives t.oo%hnor. Mnnv "f tlu; notiiiiii, lioworer,
had Gcriuaniated their naoies loug Wfore tl>e catA.«tri>|>hi; nf t)i« White
Sloiintiiln. IiutancKS of tho Itijid i»ocurred diirinj; the rci)r[iB of Charlei IV.
and lua aaa Vviimtluxu. Durinf^ thuir roigiis tunny c&fitk-!) were built on
neontains and roclct, aeconUt^ to the Geminn tiuitiiiu, whcreu the aa-
Otent fiobemiani had hem accu^omcd to build for t^rutber stmn^h amoD^
nanhea or on the banlci of rivera. Tlie«e castlei. built after Genoan
£uhion, received also (lennaa names, i?ndiiig gcucmlly ia &ef^ or futry,
■nd tho fariiili.;^ W^n if U* culled ;iftt.<r tlieir eaaC,l««. lu tliis H*a.y the
family of Vitkory came to he thv fA.mily nf KonrtilnTg. the home of
I>ipotdita changed into Uie luMtee of Riutonburg, Rstieki> was metamor-
phoacd into Wal.l«tein, and Z>iri«hov» into Sternberg^, and all Uieee lanii-
lies became much more famous under their Gmiian tliim ttii^ hud ever
been under their Slnvoniau^rHiaut. The Bolirniiaiipntriou claim all these
familieJ aa firMiuinf^ Slnvoninn* ; mnintainin); that a SUvonian is no more a
Gemiiui Ikcau^c he has taken to 3|>eakiiig Gemiun, tlian tlie Ruastna nobli»
ca.n be ^lid to be Frenchmen Wcause they *peak habitually French.

The largest Atulriaii ^Id eoini have the VM^t of twenty dticat«. Ten
duoat pieces I am told, are vtill colued, and are occaaiouiilly found iu cli^
culaljon. As my readen are nil honei^t people, tlierc can be no harm in my
tellinp them that fifty of these seduRtivo lortkiupf lumps of gold arc to bo
BM-n ill the ci'Iiectioti at I'ra^v. The lar^ett gold medal in the museum
wvi^is no less than one liundred ducats. The most mcuJcm medal 11 one
ftttvck a few yearj ago, in honour of n visit paid by the Emperor Nicholas
to Plague. The intcription is : J^'icAolara /., Cfvartek HusiAi, ifC.
(Nicholas L, KussiiLn Emperor, the Illmtriniu Oiiest iu I'ragiie.)

I also found much that interested me in tlie library of the figbemiaQ

POPUl^R SCKM:S IK rRAGUE. 67

Auodalion, tliota^li I wu not so (brtunata u to have the learned anil
csteeiii(>d libnuiau, I^rofefisor Huikn, for my f^iid«. The d«|>artni«Dt of
}lobenti»n litvratun: M hy no uKans CMnplctr, much liaviti^ b^mi tiiJifD hj
the Koj»l Ubmrj- vrlicrc a section u set apart for it, Tm collection oi»
tii« llra^lshia is ticii cliietl^ in Xatural History. On llic utlter hand,
bowever, (iiekiodred Slaroni&u UtvratunM ofitoNua, Poland, lllyria, Scriia,
and Cariiithia, bave ««ch it« dcpartint-ut I ira^ told that a RuuUa
granitiiar tor (lie m» of Bohomtoiis would shortlj be publi^liMl, and could
not but feal Burnns»] that tlae relations between the great KufKtn nnd tJto
IhUe Bohemia should olKadv have hecone m> active, that the want of such
■ wivrk should have beeo ML It is not many yman that Gennsny has
iMen in iKixxcMiuu of a tmUe Russian eianunor.

Of Bobeouaa £il>lM many aie to oo seen here, as wcU the fiutkiiil
L'tnu)miit venoMi &oin the orifiinal languages, as that arranged for tbo
Cftttiiilifv from tlift Vulgate of llicmnynius. At prtvent, Bolteniia can be
supplied with Tthctfliiaii biblM only by (nntrabaud. There is not Indeed
any prohibitian a^cBj^ifit their aalci hub they are noL oUnwt^ to br ritlier
printed or imported. The smugglej-s on too 8ax<>n fruiiticr, lioneriT, aro
T«y active, and keep the morlict supplied, though perlinps rathor
sparingly. Tlic hibica arc supposed to come from Berlin and from Eng-
land. The Bible Society of Dresden. I naa osninHl by the jirenideut
himself, did not themselvej send a siug^le copy into Bohomin, bttt l)i« free
traders of the frontier, in the saaw way m which tlicy receive orders for
coffee and sugar, ircciTC orders probably from time to time for bibles.
Two years ago, I was told, tercral waggoo-losds of bibles fell into th«
hands of the Uohemiaii custom-house oiflicers, by whoai tlivy are ket>t to the
present day under lock and key.

Autofrraphs of mm oalrtvnted ui t1u> history of Bohemia are likewise to
be soea at this museiun { among nuuiy others, llioec of Ilnss and Zixka.
The Utter usually added the place of his nativity to his signature, and
Bgne<1— Zixka von Trounow. Some of hit letters, huwerer, are nigned-^
Jan Zixka a'Kaliebu, from a eoatle which ho Itod built, and to which bii had
given tJic name of Kalich or the Cbahce.

ht tliu <-ahiiiet of natural lititory on the HradjJitn is shown what strangers
an told was tlto loKt bear that ever eusted in a Htnttt of nntum tn ilohcmia.
This animal is aud tobani been shot in 1U17, but 1 had eubscqocntly an
opportunity, of Hali^ying mysdf that tlie race of wild bean is not yet ex-
tinct in th<- country, for on the Sell warzu-u berg estates, near Iludweis, I
•aw ot l«a«t a iotva of tlicm. LyBxe* and wild cati are also to he found
in the niotnitaius. and beavers al«Ti^ the banks of the Moldau, and sonu-
tUDea even in tlie immediate i-icinity of ["rague. 'llieir uususpericd itk-
eastce near the capital led, not long ago, to a singular lawsnit. A farmer
vfao owned a field near the river, obvenvd that khhc trees and sluube hod
aevend tiniei been cut down mid canned away during tlie niglit. Ua
brought an action, in eonsenuenee, against one of his nrigfalxiura. Tito
court appointml persons to vuit the |)lacc aud tuii[>«ct tlie stuiuiis that re-
Btaiued. Tlw>ie nerscnis, on viewing the ground* diTlarcd iininediatcly tliat
the property had heen earned away by four-footed thicvos, and after a ctooe
•eardi, a li'tUe eoLmy of beaver* was discovered, svppoiwd to have come
down the river fixrni the neiKbhourlnHxl of Diidneis.

In ths mineralogicat collection the most ceU'brnlWI piece is the " aecnrscd
burgrave," » meteoric eWM mif^bmg upwards of (wo hundred poonds, lo

r 2

66.

TIIE BOOK OF LIFE ON TIIE HOLIUU.

-which popular tradition Itu aUacbcd a Ugeod of a ty iM iaa ai aoUe^ ^"^"^l
when hii toul wm ulton «w»y to liell, left thia bla«k metalUe lamp btthiiw'
in the iiIms of his ImxI^. Not u a nstaral cnrionty. bat w m mibis
proof of Uw d«vil'» potency, the atoae was for many ycsre prrarrrcd at tha
tonncU-houso of Ernbomo, where miraculous pon«4 were even ftttribiited||
to it. Wboevei liAc<t tTtc " svcurhxI baTgrnnf," it was Mid, would be cunj
of Hindry coniplunts, and many prasaiits fre<iurntly came ta Ebibogvn to
tact tlw twaliuff powen of the ttonK I have no doubt it« <>flr«icts were &•>
oueatly very Mtu&Mory, for a lidc man who retained strencth enough t«
lift sjic\i a wci^^t, was not liktOy to Iw in a de^fwrate condHion, and migfafe
at the same time hope to derive benetit froni u few gymnartie faau. lu
later tiro««, vben sneni^e em^roadied more aiid mnre xtpon the domaini of.
aapcntitioo, the Mumuhi at V'itftina l^d claim to to ran a speciniaB nil
serial imnnalogT. The oouuelbrs of ElDbogra fought lustily for ihair f
treuttra, aad at lost a rompromise was acn«d to: th« buif^Tv wa* aawa '
in two, aiid one half w«iit to Vienna, while tlic othvr half retoainad at I
Elubogen. The Bohciiiiiui Patriotic Asaocialion poMcuo cmly a model at
the wholo a* it ajtpoarcd befora tho ruthtof* partition «u carrtL-d into
effect,

THE BOOK OF LIFE ON THE UOLDAU.

To tboae who bave read the history of Bohemia, it will b« no matter of
WDodar to ba informed, that e\tti at tlie preseiii day there continues to be
BO much talk at Prasufl of xiw ffcnren Stdmte (My I^mlt the Stntei), of
whom you will one day hear that they have hctn criahliihiii^ nn nip^cnl*
tiintl iiiKtitutioD, im anotWr that tht^ have directed a suspenaion-bndg« to
bo built over the Moldnu, or that tht^ have ndvaiie^d niuney for ihe con*
Struction or repair <■•( »onic public biiil<lin||;. There i* as much attrihtit^ii in
Prague to My l-tmU the State*, ai tbere is in Rome to tho Pope, la
ancient titnen thfv elected kings, and regulnied die articles of public fnith;
at present thotr (nativity ia limited to the le<is important cpliore which I have
juit indicated. Formerly the citiet of livhcuiia, pnrticularly Pm^s tad
Guttcnherg-, had coiisidernblc weight in the nMcmblics of the Scales: at
preeimt the few deputies for the towtii that are Etill fldinittcd, are consi^ed
to a single Wiich— a sort of stool of repeotaue« — in an extreme comer of
the hall, where the bur^^cncs arc efiectnally separated from tlio remainder
of the deputies, and that in sueh a way. tliat no civic repreieutative. unless
tf nor* than ordinary boldnvis, will W likely to have tne a«»tiruiit,).' to in-
trude hia ufHuioiis npou liia ntiriut collcnf^c^ " My Lords the States,"
in Bohamin, are at present neitlier more nor less than the highest order at
nobility — Damely, " the reigning" counts, prineat, and banmf. Tfie head
of the Caniily bemg is possesrion of the Mate of the family, ia always de-
flci-il>ed n» tlw " m^iiiig" count, Ac.

Th« Bohemian nobility, owin^ to their great wealth, to the good edu-
cation most of tbem receive, aud to the di3tiu|^ui«lied altililiea •L-f some
among ihem, occupy a liigLlv iin|>ortniit [io«itiaii in Uii> Auslriiui monarchy,
and axBicisa a far greater innuencp upon the iidniiiiiNtmtion of tliu empire,
than do the nobles of any other province. Tlie lii|;))««t office in Bohemia,
aficr the king, a tlmt of Obfrstburggraf, a Bohemian dignity of very
remote Bulii|uitv. ]]e in assiictvd by fourteen MmnM>llorii of gon'mment
or Oubernialrdthe, ADd by ft vic«-prcsident, besides which, tbe country i«

TOE BOOK OP LIFE OS THE UOLDAC.

, £nded into «xU<«n eirclas, each arele luvin^ k nptnin and tiirtta caiu-
tmUBaries to su]>eriDteDd its affairs, 'iliis gnuluntcd list of public oRiccrs,
from die Obentbufffffra/ to the Kreittommutar, or commiisArj of tlie
eilde, is oIImI tho f(uvcrntiK^it of tlio counirv {dia bohmiarhe Lnndetrt-
LgifruiH/), and ufNU-ly all these of&«« are 6lled by [acmlers of tbo oitt
Enoble famitiL-s of Bnhenua.

This Bnhttiiiim f^ovi-nimniit, like that ofGnlicin, Moravin, AiiMrin, ftc,

ttaadi otidcr the control of what i* called th* Unitrd Court Chunoery at

[Vienna. At the head of this central dcportmeDt ia a Superior ChnimMlnrt

runrted hy a Chancellor of the Court, tno Vice-Chaacellon, aud aj cnaiiv

; Aulic C'ouiidllord ns there are ]imvin<iea or eovemmenti fubieet to tins

court cluiiit.'&n'' iluiiffary and TjaQHjlvania aavo separate chanctrries for

tbe control <n their alTaini. A singular cin-unutanre connected witli tlua

Oouiteliaucen^is, thiit itenjoj-sthc title of Majesty, bein^ addraised " Voup

Majesty Ute C^aucvry- erf the Court." Thitt b m aome incaiun; chamc-

tenstic o( Au^rta, wrierv it in u common uyin^, tliat it u not tlie emperor

who reign^ hut lua officers.

Not only over tfie adnniiiitration of tlieir own country, but over tli«
whole eiitpirr, the Uolieniiims <>K>;rriMi great iufluence, owing to the im-
portant |)nRt4 to which thvy have mt<sed (litiniipire* by their ability aud
official aptitude. In ei-erv office in Vienna you are sure to find Bohemians,
and they are mostly ttit; Mivouritci of tlieir superiors. In the Polish aud
Italian nroviiictm il w the Hainu, an that white the Dohemianit are i^riimbliiig
ftbimt tlip >tal« of dejiLxiiIi'iici^ in wliich their countrv i» kent on Austria,
tbo ether provinces might nith more Juitivc complain iti tnvir tuni that
hthey are subject to Uuhemians. Two of the most Oiatitig^uishcd mcmhvni
f the Austrian govenuneiit are at present Bolieiniaiis — namely. Count
tolo^Tat and Count Jlitrowski.

To pve Hii account of tliti picture-galleries, lilrrarim, rimI muMuni)i, col-
M^tml at tlie variout ca«tle« of the Buhcmtan Tiobltu would, no doubt, be M
liiifhiy interetting oeciination, but would at the some timo be found an
Berciileaii labour. At I'ni^e, there are many prirate palaces veil deserv-
igthe atr.ciitioii of a trnvcller, but 1 tan »orr^' to say I was able to visit
ut few of tiicin. The only private picture-mllny 1 was myself able to
inspect was that of tlio No^titid palace, but Uie puoces of thv fniuilivs of
Wallenstcui, Czenii, Lobkowils;, Schwarr.enljerg, and others, ant nil <te«erv-
Bg of attention. M'luil iHLrticiihirfy inU'n^nteil mo at tho Nostitji jpalnre,
M the model of a marble monument intended to be erected at Topliti.
i nqpresents tho Knij^ht Prxemynl Ubourini^' at the plough, at the moment
Irlieii the envoys of Libussa arrive to olFt-r him tlie LTunu. On another
ride U a group in witiob h« tx ncen ns King of Rohcniia holding; bia
•ntrance into the palace of liis consort. Tlie Bohemians show (|iiito a,
paMioD just now for illustrating the earlv jJeriods of their history by nio-
noinents, and many a name is brouglit ti> light, and becomes more
liuuQua perbaps in tluiH days, tlian it ever was during tJie life of itJ
Owurr. There ts in the same gallery, a beautiful group by Canora, of
Copid and Psycho, ^-liidone's U'onmii (alien in Adulterv !« n choniiing
picture, but there is one by Eyh that in ni<Nit ruvcjlting. Christ is tvpre-
8enti.-d imdiT n prww. with blood spouting fn>m liifi'i-rent jiarta of his Ixtdy.
strvani of biood giuhet from his broast, luid it <-aug;ht by ]irii->it«, who
ilribttte it atnnng [lie people. There i* an exquiitito pietura by Von
Sobalkea, of a girl csling a peach. The {teach is sucli a soft, juicyt deli-

THE BOOK OP I-FFE OK THE MOLDIU.

oat«, Telr*t-d*d frmt, ttiit ■ mintar can rhoow no more nnUbIc -nmsti
OD which to make a lav«Iy m^«n Stut. To bit# into «□ npple, she muat
make on cfiurC tli«t dutocU ber foatww, but » peach tuKj be enjoyed wiA
akin.

I spent but Itttlo timr, howftrer, ia the Xoctitxi Gillmj, for tlin<e wer«>
other objects in PrsK^e that I wu more wixiviu to »c«. Araong othcn I
W9Dt to risk the Tein Church, rajoe the chief temple of the Huasitca. In
thiilr tino the pictures Mid imieea were lUI dosiro^-ed, but at preient Uie
building it ajc^iu amply providcij vitli them. Tim cboreli contains a mul-
titude m monuments. Dot those tlmt most attrsetcd my notice were on« of
Tydii) de Brohe, with a Latin iiiseripUoD to the offeet (liat neither wealth
nor power, but only the works of soenee are iinn>nrbU : and seroniny, the
tomb of a Jewteh boy, on which was a Latin iiisiription, of which tlic fol-
lowing is a Iraiulatiini : " A little Hebrew boy (Flebraeolua) bciii^r itispired
by God, (bad, iu the year IGiV^, to the ('iMiieiitinutn, the CoIIp}^- of the
Jeauits, that he oiigbt be bapttxed. AArr a few Aayn he wati treacherooaly
taken a.wny from hU place of refuge. Ue wa* torturpd by hi* parents, wl»
ajrailetl him mith ct aMU ^ nnacee, blow^, hunger, and o4her torments ;
oererthelcM, h« remaiaed ttcadfiut in the tnie faith, till o» the 1 2th of
Februaiy, I ^4, he died, in caneei]uenoe of ttie treatineiit he had fvcorcdi
His body was privately boriod, but on the sixth day wa" dug up again,
and, on htilnff initpmted by the maj^stntee, was fotinJ free trom all
offennvc smell, of its nataial ooknir, and floating in Tony blood (rosea tan-
ffume), whereupon it was earned fironi the towit-liovm inmlemn proceasion,
followed by an immense multitndo of pious people, and was hTOught to tlua
■pot."

It is cDrange what diiferent anawen ^-en will rewive in Prague, if you
taquin whether tluTO are still nnv lluWtes in the plsoa. Some say poii-
timy "yea," and othen arc <]uice as pojtitive in staying " no."" Several
perwHU a«ni«] me thor* was a Hussttu li»iu<> of jirayer in l*mgne, but
004, likely to be WfU iiifomiod, iaid thi^ro linJ bfoi) muh a plare, but it
bod «noa been convertod into a tt-arc-house. Most people rrill ti?ll you,
■'Oh, in tlie mouiitaiiiH tiw-rr are iluisitcs enough;" but then the [teopJcoif
Prague dispose of a tiiultitude of tliiogs bv turning them over 10 the
mountuns, « Yes, them are Huamtes" another will add, "but tliey pre-
tend to be Protostonte." In jMliit of diet, tlicn.- are no Huwitea officially
lecoguUed a.t such, but it is pmbAble thjit many in secret still ti^-tnpathit«
with their doctrines. Of Protestaats, aeeoMTing to the offirinl consul,
there were Sl.CMJO in 1S39, or aboot 2^ jier cent, of the entire populaliou.
In Moravia they are niorc numerous, amoundng to 1 10.(X)0 «.>ul», or 6 per
cent, of the population. Moravia exeentod, howevw. tho Protestants form
a larger pro|ioTtion of the population in Bohemiu tliaii iu uuy other Aiutrian
pro^-iiice-

Amoiig tlie princely gardens of Prngne, I visited those of ('ount Salnv J
and Pinnee Kinsky. In the count's ganlt-n I found twenty gnrdonera ani
OMtstaiit K^trdeuen vui)ilc>yL-<l. i^itb a court gnrdciicr (ffofffartner) to so-
perinteml them. They told me they Imd no le«8 than 3.10 kinds of I'ricas;
and of tliese, aa of the fine collection r>f Australian pbuiti, there were mftnj
that hod bem brought into Uohemia for lln^ timt time that year. A ^^eafe''
trade in plants is c&nied on with tho iivtvnor of Austria from Pi«gu%.J
where ihev ciui be had from England and IloUnnd with toVrable facilitT
ewer lUmljurg'. In the KJnsky gorden, 1 waa too much taken up with

THE BOOX OF UFE OM THE MOLDAtT.

tiie beautr of the pUoe, to imlie mmuj loqiurMs about its etattrtical detail*.
He gmraen U arranf^ on ■ saanman at tumcaft, that riw from Uw
Uoldoa op the nde of n hill, from the Rtmnit of winch thv vyv rwpU rii a
pOBOnunic view of l*r«^e aud ltd enrirong ; ooft of tbo«« vi««« on which
me dwelb nitb liii^-jiu^ (bnilnets, bnt o( which the pea n powerl««* to
convey B (iBseriptiaD, and <^ nhich all w« ran aaj U, tliat it ih beautijiil.

At my feet lay tho ul«s nf ihe MoMsu, nitd tliv niEpmiition-lini^a,
When this bridge aiid iu 8{)iirtxtcbbi are finltlted, the aspect of Praeua
mUl be materi^fv improYwd. Th«ra waa fomMily no Qi>*y tioag the nde
fif the rivtr. liiis want will ik>w bo ropnlJed, a ntmbcr of old and itl-
iDokit^ bouses baring been bought up and pulled down, with a view to the
aoiHtractioii of a quay and of some kudsoiiia buildings calculutrd to fomt
■ more (iiiiable frantt* tn tiic atiMdn. M uw efo ui StAmaJtett (an Austrian
ivord for hoau) ouinutod the watcTi along whose buulu lay utivtclii^d a
ikliiDcal and sereral private fpudens. Oa the othvr fide thu di^rrted
Visiehnd seemed to mourn mi dcpaited gloriea: and tracing tU» up-
Wlfd couisc of the river, the eve rcrted at k-nglh on the Bnnnik loA,
, from whose vntrails had been torn the matrriola tliat hnd |^ni^ to the niak-
[hm itp of the many houses that lay at my feet. Hw itonn dbtnuiej from
Ifais rock is remarkably fine, and in the time of Charles IV., wtw known to
Iw ItalisD orcltitccts under tlio uamc? of pa»ta di I'raga. The rock itself
1m Its legend. A valiant kuiglit of the name of Braniuk i) aud to have
'4veh tber«, and to lie buried there with Iuj brave ooatpaiuoiu. In one
«f the c«T«nu of thu rock, the donblvd-tailed Uuh«niiau ti«n u swd to hold
Ui i^^iiieuw, and wntth over the graves of its farniwr tenants. Oneo a

Cur be comes out and salutes t)ii< Moldiiu rallvy wttli a roar, and then,
nig received no answer, hu creeps iutu liis h»l« ^^ruIl, to take another
twdvemouth^ renow. Should he, tuiwi-vrr, oiiu day receive aa answer,
there will ho a mtglily str»ggl(> tn Ikihfnita, fur Uio gimats of tbe deceased
heroes rut from their graves, and arc to secure the ricUwy to their eoun-
fayRKii. Thii legend bkiiis U> live still iu tho full contidcncu of tlie
people: hut then in Bohemia there it no end tn legendi. You fall in with
niem nt the corners of the BtreeU aoij in the deptlu of forests ; they aliound
Biid thrive amid the crowded thoroughlaree of I^guc, as in tbe sdeot floU-
tldes of tlie country.

Amoc^ the manufacturer of Pragne we must not forgot to epeah of the
warofaouMS ofglnsa goods. Tho workshops ace gcnendly at »on)e distance
in the eountry: but tlic wiirehoiites in Prague, for the gn-uter |>art, are
the property of tlii? niuiuifiu-tur^nt. These have chemists aiid vaiaU ia
their pay, who arc constantly luoking their innntiou to extend the domains
of i^asti, by dijooTeiing new articli^ that may ndniit of Ix-iiig formed of so
hritllo a material, and to j^ve new eolnurs and forms to th(«e article* which
the glass euttete have long looked upnn u U-longing to tlieir kigitimate
^k*n> Of each new discovery or moiUlicatJon a drawing is made, and a
copy HUt to the manufactory. Tho drawing utd llie copy bear conTcapo i id*
u^ mnrlcs and number*, so that if a sudden demand oomes to the ware-
bouse for any partiridur artidc, all that is neccMaiy pnbaUy i< to send so
order down to llie country, to uuike up immediately no many doseut of BUSS,
or whatever nUe tbe number may be. I waa allowM to look overa number
of these drawings which won- ncatir b"uud up in folij volumes, and I woa
artonisbed at the immenie varietv o{ designs imd inventions for coffee, tea,
and milk pots; at the cndleu modifications of form whieb so nmple an

FKOM fhaoue to BnnwKis.

article u A gldai ftoppcr vw nudfr t« uDd«r^ : and St tho prodi^lity of
ingenuity that bad be«n expended on myin^ th« conformation of a tiling
■o nnimpoKiiit u a buiyt Bmollin^bottle. In the difTurent ahadea of
colour lh«n- rrta almost ai ntttch rarictj a* in the form ; yet the praraiUng*
tastti appeats to be alviAj!). in the loD};-mD, in favour of (hat nhich is moct
eimplo. Tho nlntii, iiuii>-, culourlHS, izryitallii)e gloat hu always b««n in
lavoui', and vrill mftmtnin it* iiupr«mfu.'y in the end, however VUte may
■port for a while ainoug tlio brilhiuit coloun, and varir^atcd fonna wliicb
■cieuce has found the meana »f inparting to Urn beautifid matiufartore.
All the btif^i " Lcooore greens'* and " Clu^-sopnw" of 1840, and tb«
" Anne grrcn," the " gold gltm" tliv " dead glut," and the " aastMute/*
of 1S41, may hold thrir place in public favour for a time; but thry will
have pwwd away when the pure L-rystal vril] be priziMl a« murb aa «ver.
Evvn ao man may surrvadcr htnuelf awhile to a chao* of abanrditie* and
fanciea; but the pure crj-ttal of good tast«, niomlity, and jnatioe will, ere
long, make it* worth be felt, and carry away tlie pnM of public favour from
all Its eoQifw^tors

FBOM FBAOrE TO DCDWEIS.

Variniu an are ih* ra«m« by whieh a traveller may cimse hinmeif to ha
con^-cycil from Prague lo Uudwei*, — by diligence, by mail post, by SUfl-
viaiffii, or with a I.i>hnh¥Uckrr, or hiri<d carriage anil liorMa, — ^>et none of
these iiu'iktit of IiK'ii'iiii>tii>n can ))e called excellent in tlM*tr kind.* The
BohfTmian diligence! am very inferifir to thnte of northern Gnrmany, and
the I.ofiKiiUsrkerw ate nuilc as slow in their m-ovcnieuts as in any otlm
part tif our country. The .Stelltftiffrn had one [mwfrful recommcudalioil
few mi\ and that wa« tlint I hml never travelled in one of them before.
Tlicy arv to be met with iii all parts of tlic Aufitriau doniiiiioii!, and »erve
as a means of communicntion bctwirm ihic soieral proviiicial towns, for
tboce who make but few pretenraons to gciitililv. The Slflttrofffit, in
contcquenco, is rarely favotirwd by foreignera, and thcrtforu all the more to
be recommended to tliose who are dtutn^iis of making ac(|uaintaiire with
provincial peculiarities. Accordingly, one iiioniin^. as the watrhiiian of
Fragile had jiut announced tint itnjionaiit fnct tiiat it had strack four'
«'clc>ck, I WM rolling, in one of tiiose humble vehicle*, through the Rost-
tlior, and out upon the Budwcis road, hi conipatiy viilh a goldsmith of
Prague, an engraver, a forester, a farmer, and a yoimg mother with her
Uttle boy upon her lap.

I tnd on excellent 0|>portunity hero of studying the pcculiarltica of the
Bnhunii an* German dialect, and I was not a little turpnsed at the syiit*!-
malie and consistent manner in which the good pnopl*- modify "ur graramar
and pronumnaiion to suit their own views. Sonietinies Slavonian worda
sn Gannaiilie<l, and soinetimt.'?! German wonls effectuidly ditguisi^d W
Slarooian termination^ and at othvir times (lie strangest gibberiih tf
produced by the lca»t cultivated cIomcs, who &ei|uenily mix up tbotr

* Tho railnnd at pn-jent nukiiiK from ViirnuD to rnjcno, and from Pnow to
Dresden, ntii) wlilcli will probaliiy be ficii^licil iii \Ui or 1r«. wiDellbct aconiplcto
n-volutlonu] DobcniiuitmYclliii^. At tho time Mr. Krilil** work was pnbtiitticiC llw
anantrcniiciits btrtwnii tbcAastiuaaiulSaxougvvcinmvnia, rcluiv«lotluirailn«d,
had not ym bMo coinplvtcdL^TV.

PK03I PRACUF. TO BCI>WEI8. IS

German itnd BlnTOtiian in so IiultRcriininute & miinner, u to inkke their
meaning tinintc^lli^lile to luy ono not funiliur with botb )angiu^;«s. ThctM
MTTtatlts An not, of course, *pply to the more «Jui7u.t«d cUmm, trho clum
for themselves the honour of »ji£4ikin^ thr Austrian •German better uid
more corr»?[l^ titan the Atutriaun tbriniK'lvtis; a similxr cIiudi u set op
by thr g«intTv of Ilunipirj, CroatlA, ati<) Slavonia, in tlie snme way thwt
thv Couciaoilen and Livonjaas niaiiitmn. — aoJ uoC vithotit Ruon, — that
tiny jipeak the North German dialiMt wore ^lurdy and eorrsctly than th«
NoTib Germans themseire*.

I qtcHt the whole morning in th« »tu<Iy of the Tariom n'stema of tortiirtt
tn trhirh my mntlicr-t()n;^ii- woa mihjectcd by the Uoheminii luoutha of niy^
fel low- era V pliers. We dined at MUlMbin, and shnrtly nfterwards wo ar-
imd nt Tabor, tho celebrated strAn^old of thf Hussiivs iii the tiftc«atlt
Oentury. Miuiy h»vi^ Mi{i|t<)9iil that the lIiiKfitca niLined the town and the
hiJl 'Ml which il stimds after Mtnint Tiilnir bi I'alesliije, but Tabor is ft
nniune Slavonian word, that occurs in alt the Slavonian diaJectn, and
a^pufiea a piece of gn>utitl siu-rauuded by a i>iili»g, -whence- it ia figuratively
Dieil (or an iitttvnchcd carnj).

Tlib lutial mad pasM-s not tliruugh Tiibor, but elo«e by the sido of it, so
that few travellers ever see the iiieido of tijo town ; wo, on our part, how-
erer, ventured to ilevtatt^ from the ^neml nik, and proceeded tn take &
nearer iti>iM>etion of so iiit^n^tinf; a locality.

llie Lu«nitea, a. tributary of thi^ Moldnu, by d<»cribinf^ nearly a circle,
has isolated an ohloii^ hill froni the surrounding couutrr. On three aides
this liil] i.i steep, and surrounded by w&ter ; on the fourl ll side art has came
to the aid of nature, lo dtreiif^ticn the place. (>a this hill, at an curly
penuU oi titc rclipoiu dulurbnnees, foiao of the Htuulci werv wont t<>
■ncmblu, and to receive the chnlii-e in Uic commuiuon; but wlu-n tho
royalists began to raise the cry of " hervtit^ heretic," u^tinst the Bolimiiaus,
acid to burn all that fvll into their handf, and when Uie Ilu^ttes, by way
of retaliation, clapped their Gt-nnan priitoners into UrrctI Iteer-barrels,
and vet (ire to tW'se in tlis public niiuki't-pUcitK ; in a word, when tho
HuHito wars broke out, the persecuted race ondoavmircd to obtain pu-
aearian of atroug jilaees ; and as those in royalist band.-i <-oiiUl not always
be bad for tint n>kiii|T, it lii^canie nec«uary lo build fre»h oiien. Zizka,*
not th** Ic£« sliarp-ri^htcd for bavinj^ but one e^-c, moh («w how uvll this
mountain was euited to be the site of a stron;; fortress, which be lost uO
time in erecting there ; and from llie fortress of Tabor he made his devas-
tating Bxcursionaaeainstcanvents and ea.«tles, his adber«uts, from iJic pl&co
of their midouce, Deii)?)C«nernlly callnL Taborites.

The little city is still most curious to sto, beariiip cvea now tlie most
oompleti! stamp of the n^ in which it was erM^ted. The gatei nn* iiar>
row, and the double walLi and baitions, which remain fWmi th*! <lnys at
Zb^s, pri-tcuk a stnkiiif; contrast to tbe iMMK-tful (..'atholic clodi-wcntcrs
that now (belter Wliind tliose romiiJabk- work*. Tlit- streets, as in most
flf tha old Bohemian towns, mdiatc from an open spaco iu tlie centre n bich
serree as a market) and many houses of an antique cu^tellaltd shape, coa-
tinne titnudiiig. In front of mm: of tliew, at the comer of xhe market -placo,
flland^ an antique balcony, wbieh is still cnlled Ziska's pulpit, from wliicfa

* Tlic name ihmiM l« [ironoiinciMl Khitlika, or rather more softly, the BoIidOiao
% btiiag a Kxaui like tlia Stitacli j in jardin.

bo u eud freqaenUj to bsre hannetMKl his warlike teholan. TW town-
lioute ia the iao«t ancient of ail tbe Miildinf;^. Within it aic still ptvscrred
Znlta's ihirt of mail, liia aim^ and a quantity of old books, bat we w«rB
wable t» obtain a sight of thew «uti(MBt)«s, in conseqiietu* of the Biir]i(o-
■aater, who had cMtse of tbe Iktb, beto^ ^m linme. CoDnon-baUs
nmy bo iroti iu the walu of many of tlie hauws, but can hardljr belong to
th» tJRws of thfl relieioiu wars. In front of th« cIiutfIi ib a bust in itoae
of Zizka, and tho gniii fvstuna of tlu- oul^-«^ed li«ro tu&v Ulcewise be mcq
on t}ie fa^aflc of n private honse. Z!xl(n wim nf a mi^ldliii^ staturv, rather
httiky in ihape, witli broad eliooldem, and a lijj^li (<h«it. His head was
large, round, aud tncliutRE forwards! hi< ben^d black and bushr, bia mootlt
largo, hia noae tluck, and Im ooutplexicn limwii. 8n itid^Ublj have theoe
ba^ttras impraswd tliafnaelf«B ujioii tW Unli^niiiinii, llinl ovtm now, after
an ii»t«r>al of foor hundn^ y^'*^, tb* peopi* df Tabor continno to «it por-
traitrJ of 7iti}ia. in notxl, a.i LiidIui fur walxin); •sticks. 1. too, bouti^hc one
of tlieiw '/Atk-x xticka, U[Kiii which the Iliisaiie clmt ii repr«j(>nt«d with a
plain linlntnt on his ho&il, and a bandagv otiv hi:t rif^he ca'p, whit^h ho had
lost early in life. Ilia left eye ho loft at thi- siv^ of Rabi cartlc, where^
a jaTcliii ftrikio^ a tree Mar lata, a tnlmter fk-w aade and comiiUtelr
bliudt'd him. Nevi^lM^leM, he rt'tainea his twinniand as ^nerttl, thou;;^
be hud to li« led into battle hj a giiidc; and it vnut, iii fnct, after lii* bltnd-
Dras, llmt he attained the lenitli of his power, when he ^inrd his victory
orer the people of Prague, who, though lluasitps themselves, hitd gotten
into a quarrel with the dovajtator of their coinvtrj-. Hereupon, ho ecm-
chidicd a treaty of friendship and allinnoe with tfiein, anJ their vlectiw
lung, Ko^^-b^t, and so f^reat wvs at this time tb? power of the blind chief,
that the kmptror Sigiimund offered Kim the government of the kin^om
and the eonnnand of it? armj. if he would c«ns«it to reoogiilw the iiaiietml
authority. IWin^ the iiejrotiutions that followed, Zixka, at tlio beig'ht of
hie power, died suddenly of the plague.

tvcry thiti-^ about tliu iiiud, c-ieii from hh liirth, appears to lutvo Iwen
extraordinary. ]lh ttk.iiIht Wivi •iwitit-uly attacked hy tlie ]«iiiis of eliild-
bitth while in » formt, atid Zixk* wiut bum «tith no ^luOtvr hut t}i;it of a.
tree, in his chnmrtor h^ vcu» lUTit)^ and eruo'l, a.i miurh m he wn* valiant
and «lo«]ut-iit Bohemian writc-n say (hnt the pr eiiliimiies iif hts stylo ore
aa diilicult to render into German, as are the refinements of Cesar's elo-
qiteuee. He mae from a romnaratirely linmble station, to supreme power
IS his native loud, and ifiiincd tliirttrcu pitched battles, serrral of which
were fought nft«r the Iom of liia second eye. The manner of his death was
Also remnrkahle, and bo is the memory- preserred of him to ibis dav by his
conntr^incn. The place of liiit birth t* atill ptnntcd out aa au unblewed
spot, and the ground when; vtond tlic tent uniU-rwIuch hchn-uthcJ his hut.
jvmnins uneultivaled to the nment dav. Jurt as the history- of Xaiioleoa
il known to all Europe, bo is that of ^ixko, i» all its dc^tails, familiar to
fFftrr Bohemiaii, and tliere 'a Rrorcclv a oastlu or a cttnveiit in the land,
in whtc^ his iiortrait is not to be (ViitDU.

Aftcrthe death of /ioka, hi« soldiers enllod themselves his orphan chil-
dren, (uid divided themsclTea into four parties : the Orphan^ the Taborites,
the Orehitc=, and the Ptmguen. Bohemia was denominated the Promised
Land, and the iurroundiu;^ Gcmuiu proviuces were ditclued to he tlio lands
of tlic Pliilittiooa, the 3Ioabit«s, and thv Idumeaiis. h was at tlua time,
no doubt, that the Is^ lake near Tabor rcctivcd tlw nnuie of Jordan, and

THE CASTLES AXD BSTATES OP SCIlWARZEXDEUq. 7S

tte IbO lieMnd T«bor, that of ITarcL Af Tsbor mtM ibe duef rity oC tlia
BoMitn, CO it now became t\w *<v^aB of tbioF wont execMCn, wliidi at-
taiatd U>eir culmiiuliiiff poiut in the wild nttmneaace of tfie Ilusuts
wet nf the Ailamitcs. At Tolxir too, wborc the HiHnte won bad coin>
ncaeed, they wnre likewise brought to a do«e, for it wu the lost city thnfe
•ukaitted to tite Royal StstM. It is »iud, tlui a niiui&at of the Adamite
Beet still exists in Ikiti«int&, and (hat othrr 1 luuite stcts bare ntAintaiiKKl
t]Mnn««-lre« iiiMlrr biicIi dcaoiniuMioiw, as tlie " Red Brothen," and iha
" Brother* of the Lamb."

From tbelbivgDiiie' it irill be Been, tint we hail turned our.tuae (o fpoA
aenmut during- our anort stay U Tabor. At the next Maga, dw nanui of
wtueh I have H^ottea, I had an opjwrtunily to see a BohetniaB pheasant-
prcMTVC. The rearing <rf jilieasaau in Bohemia ia cairiad on upon aa
cnocinoas scale, a* im^ be judnd fruin mi advertiMment which I nw, and
in which a eettaiti Cmmt SniUck otf^-njcl tlirvo thowand {lair of liviD^
biids for sals to ooe lot la these preserree the pheasants an dmdod into
wild and tame; the wild ore liepL m large woods, the tame under roof, or
t& enchised yards.

The nif^t was alrtady far sdrsaced wh«n w« ro«clicd Budweis, but ut
that t^ty, for thi< L-onsolatinn of travellers be it koown, the sun ocrer ccssea
to shed tns \\g\tt upon the benighted Strang, for the inn so named baa a
Isrg* lamp burning eonspteuoosly, from evening till morning in &ont of
tlte chief vn trance.

THE CASTLES AND ESTATES OP SCHWAKZE^-BERO.
The «oiitH«T» pxtpcmity of Bohemia, tliu wwntry round BudwoU, is

ipdividuaU. Ht-re it woa that foniiiTly dw*«1t the family of the Rotenbmn,
'« raet so povrciful, lluit MMeral of (ho liolinniian Tnonareha woo»d Uw
daujiiitcrt for ihi-ir bridw. 'llic l*i>rds of Rosenberg frc^nviiUy contracted
matniuouiol nlliaiices with tho ■ovt-n'S^ houses of Gcnaany. nnd on ooa
McanoD we find the name of Rownborg amon); the candidatea for the
Polish cronn. At prnttiit lliv family b extinct, a virL-u instance that caonot
hut serioofly hare aiHtcted ChitrleniEg;uc, the Trr^ati horoe^ Noah, and
RtndiT others of the anceatonj of ho iUuxtriniu a \ia» It is cartaiolr A
sinpilar coineidcnw, that the branch of llw IWenberg fnmilv which ^ad
been planted and had takt-n root in Courlnnd, should hiire dit'd nwny muck
about the same dme m iho iiin.in faniily-Ir«e ill Butivuua. f^inilar c<>inci-
doMCa, however, are on r^K-ord r<H]X.-ct me other fiunilies, nf whirh different
bnnclMH establielied in diMant countnca have all becorao extinct nearly at
the came time.

In the cellar of the Senate At Bremen there is a wine that by its gratt

y> has aoqnirml such an odour (so exquisilv a bouquet u tho comaotMCttrs
wine expnss it) that ynu need only pour a frw drops upon your poclceli-
bftodkerehief, and you will luve no oecaslon for oau-de-CoIoyne fiw tevenl
days afterwarda. Nobility secnu to be like this wine — the oUer it gnw*
Ih* roon. it is priiwl. and if its origm is h»t in the Jiu-k agva it becomes
qoile i»Mtimab)i>. The tast of the Bosenberg^ aocorrling !•> all tite tilings
&al era related of him, Mcuu to h«Te thovglit Ids nobility juct such a jewel

of priccloM valiis, btit dvar a* it was to tun, he wai imaUe to IxKjuenth it
to ft roccttMiori fgr oubilit), liWo pMiitu, virtu*, luid I««nuD^, i« no* ta !»
difpuwd of ill • nun's la«t will and tvttumrat. Unblessvd with lui heii to
what ha mcMt Mtcemcd, lli« last of the Ro^puWrgs went to hin gr»re, bat
hie taiilatiarT posvcinoD") hU broad lands and atatdv uut)«a found nu bt»r
•oon eiioiiftl) in the fiwailj- of thi- Schu-uncuWrjfi, who arc now tho undi*-
tnitci) Innli of all tliv Unds in wlitcli the Moldau and its tribuianM take
tlieir ri«r.

Tbf must iiaporUnt of ttieiT caslico aiid vstAtc* aro colUil Kjunimau
'Witiiiij^u, aiid Fraucnbciig, and all that I bod heard of the chamu <if
tho'*' <-ast.le9 fxeitcd too much curiositT in me to allow me to neglect aii
opportuuily of (mytng them a visit. What 1 saw &7 exceeded what I had
expfx-tnl to sec.

) |uiid my tint viMit to thn inw that imsaiMl for the tenst important, and
drovr witJ) an homitsblp fripnil, a resi<r«nt of Budwoiii, down the rcTdant
banks cf the Moldau to Schloisi FniiieTiht.'r|;, irhlch stands on a mck hy the
lirvT side, where it f»nn.i a coiiK|>icuoiu nhjcct to all the (utrouuiling
cwinlry.

U(>()u the said rock tliere stands an old ca«tle, and a -new one •( much
gt^tter sjdeiidour is rising by the jiide of it. Over the mtrance to the old
one rfarids tliw inscription, Frvetus fitlfi, nWrnxi^. I bi>H«vc-, to the gift
vhiidi one of the Aurtnttn cmncrors, FrrJiimnd If., if I am not mid-
taken, niiulu of this ca^tlo and lorvLtliin, to one of liia 8|)aiiii>h gvncrals,
Don Bultluuar Mnraiiiw, Count of SaVnto. Fndcr tliw piti'way of llie
caitJe may etlll be se^n a tnV^lct, on which thit l)<-in Ridttinjtnr \s styled
Comi-9, I)»mimis in Fraiienberg. Al preaent, however, tbo gateway is
■urmi^itited liy n Turk'* hfud, fri«n which a raven is jiicklLig out the eyes.
Thip is thr tT*«t of the Si-hwarwnborgn, who, iikr many Austrian faniilivs,
eajry Tiultiali eniblcmB and qjoJlB in ihclr shields. Hic view from too
cajtli' is uii3|)cakahly beautiful. The fields nnd meadows of the Muldnii
lie at yon' feet, ami farther on bcs a plain, fi'om the niidst of trhicb rlsif the
steieplfi? of ItudwL'ig. The wh-^du is bounded by braucbeH of the nifuntain
range of tho Briheniia]i F"ri'«t, iiiid over tho liUidiH'a]i(; lie nc.ittt.Ted a niun.-
bei- of tillages, alt uf wliicli ln-bnig to the lordnhij) of St'Iiwimn-nlierg. To-
wardii the ea*t the eje trave!* on t»wan1» U'iitingnu, anotlicr Swarren-
bcrg Intdsliifi.

When tlm French Marshal. Beniiulotte, visited the castle In lfi05, (hy
t}ie by. tile Frendi must have cirrittd away nioro iigrcoiihli? ren-ollectloas
from tliis southern extremity of Bohemijt, which they riaitcd lei»Tirvlv a*
visiters, than they did fn>rn the northern pnrt of whieh they obtanied.
only a few hswty gliiiicr* tlimugh the sulphuions smoke of (I'ulm;) hut
wlioii the mnrs>tal vixitcd the i-astlo, as I vas saying, and the intendmt
poiult'd out the nuignificent i»ro.i[>«'t to him. and then iislted hin> what ho
thought of it, the marshal nnswi-red. " What strikes me a* inost wo»d«t>
fid if, that your iirinct! xhoidd In^ InnI and master over all I seo." And, in
fiut, without being a French marehal of thu duy;! of the em^iro, whoso
fingers would nniiirally be itching at the sight, it » difficult for any one to
let liis eyes roam frtim rillage to liUngv. nnd from field to field, withiMit
8onie little sensation of cory, without *oino slight appraximatiuu to a wi»h
that hr wi-re able to step into the Sehwanenberg'ii plnct". All the wliilo
I wa* ihin-, I wns iliinkiiig of the old fairy tale of " Fuse in BootK," where,
u tli» king and Iiia son-in-law ore driving through the country, the cat

TSG' CA9IXE9 ASD B9TATE9 OF eCBWASZEXBERC.

Iteeps Mvin^, " Evny tinag you see belnogs to our lord and fntuUrr the
princr, your majcrty'B son 'in •law."

I Ktn Dot aware that the old castli: >s yvt m ho ruinoiu a coadiciou, that
it tni^ht uot hflTe stnod, sod kept out the wind and n'la for many jeuxa
longer ; but when a man has 4,0(K),00(> doiim (£400,000) b yeu, u
Priticc Schwnrxcnbcre' is Mid to hnw, Iiv !• not expected to take as inu^
cue of hU pennies ^n niij^lit lieM'^in a tlinfty cobblvr ; and as tlie print.'e is
poseionately fond of Gotlnc iirchitccttiro, it la very excusable in him to hare
aet aiidi; .^(Hf.OOO llnriiia to build hlnificlf a new hoiiM^ lu.'cordiiig' to his
&?ourite fiubiuu. Whea tim uen building u niii«lird. FrauHiibprg -will be
OD* of tb« handiODcat ewtlei in Bohemia. Thv siuidgtano finr the Gothia
omamonts coine* aO th» way from Vienna. Wo saw itaudinf; ia the couri-
Y&rd a quantity of these stones, packed up in chests with u mucit care aa
iT they had Ixien to niany loav-cs of su^^.

Frauciibt'r]:; is <*cl(!bmtAil througlumt Bohemia for it* wild-boar huattf,
which are carried on here, probobly, on a pranJer scale than in any other
place in Europe, Djid ore, indeed, unique in their kind, like [he Etlerhazy
atog-huDts on the Flatten Lake in Hungary. The monagari« nr Tkier-
garUn, in which the wild boan are kept, coven a space of a (Gonuan)
square mile and a linlf ; and e«vu of late years, as many as 3U0 lioars
(& kind of game growing erery d&y more scarce in Europe) have been
killed at ouu of thLsc huutlng-feKlivais. The epurt L^ curried oit with ex-
traonliiiunr iwnip, and something iifier tin- folbwing fashion ;

Near the tmrk in which tha aiiimn.l(i itre kept, is a sniill roedv lake^
bounded on tnree sides by gently 'rising heights. On the fourth siile th«
book b low and awntnpy. This lake is the scene of tlie yearly alaugbtcr-
iiiga. On the t)wani[iy side nf the lake, a high and hollow dike hxt been
etvctftd, T«tting upon vnult-^ in which ok eotdincci the animal* intended to
be hunted. By the eidc of tlio dike projectiitg into the water, arc small
tribunes or balc<»nies, in which tlie lords of ilie chaee take their places. Oa
the dike, really, if wanted to oiford assistance, stand the foroiitcnt ani)
kuatAnon of tno prince : all, from the head forester to the whippcn-ln,
in splendid uniforms. There arc not less tlion twenty of the nriucc's fo^
KSters, and 1 30 of his huutsmen present on one of tnese oecosiuns. The
OBimali are let out of their milled prison about tifty at n timL>, and, driven
bv a crowd nf pcauinta ('collected for the piiirnosc, they tnuucdiatcly lake to
tUfl water, to conceal th'tfnm-lve« in the reetb, or to swim towards the Op-
pe«ite hills, where they hope to find shelter in the foresL On the way
tliitlkrr they seldom fait to ntid Ui<?ir d«alh from the eoustaot iiru poured ia
upon theui by the gciitlvnieu «tatioiie<l i[) the balconies.

I observed to my conijianintiit that this kind of i]H>rt nemed to ma mere
butchering, and must l>e very imipid and moucftoaous ; but they tusuiwl
me it wn» full of pleasure and exciteaieiit, on oecouut of the pomp witk
which the wholo was conducted. In the ocntre of tlut dike there wu
always a full orcjmtra. and tx-hind it an amphitheatre for f]ieetaeon, of
wbout number? came irom all parts of the surrounding counlnr. Tlie
moment, they told me. when the sport was about to begin, when the
trumpelK sotinclecl, and the gates were opened to set the wild boar<j free^
was one of t^at tuspensc. I'licn the situations in wliich the cn»ttum
presented ihemselvrs to the lire of tlic hunters, were very varied. Some'
times the game would hide itself among tln' reeds, whence it wnuld have
to be driven \iy tlwrillet i tMuctimes it would swim as a men black speck

"1W

nra CASTLXS A?n> wtates op «niwASZE!ni£S6.

vpoo the ■water Now otw wauU svim dineU^ toward ft bokon; filM
witli ill foes, and often s few woidil gniu the Offoa t e Blunt wxl P^ tlw
'bMt marknman to the proof to privant tbair «ki^ TleB, an old wt»-
UbbeJ Uw amotkf; (i«nnaii hantnre iw piiwi i &alt to* cmtum't bead ■bould
Kiawn uDinjurod. and tlie htiiiten) are ntteo put to it, to avokl tfac pcuoltiea
vliicli an iofrsf rion of tbit law draws afUrt iL

In the plain bolov Sehloaa FnuMobaiv, and notliu-froin the lake Ihara
just described, lioi ux tM castl« (««ctM for tit* vxprui porpow ot btar-
mituig. Sucli castlet eiiitad (nrmetiy in many parti of Germany, buc
faave all dinnpearvd now, with ttym oxceiitiouR. The biuldinj^ I am now
■praking' r>f la an vxtonsivo onit, witli nparttmrnt* bdow for the huntsmen
am keriinre, with dens (or bears and lieiiBelB for dog^ luid lar^ natmi of
jiMMB anoTR for the pritioe aiiil hU f^uerta. A balcony, for tlie acoommo-
datioo of epot^tiitnm, piwjivu infa> the courtjard, which it niRountled fajr
bigb walla, and in which bcosta of all kinda w«rc formerly baited. Tlio
lu>t great bear-baiting that took place there, occumd only aixty years
ago.

The pnadpal aalooo of thii coftlc u hnnp; all r<vund wild beautiftd pic-
tures by the calebrated ammal-tniinter, Hamilton, and I Wlicvc tlte nol-
Wtioii contains tbc best paiiiliii|^ he ever mode. Hamilton spent the
Tears 17 10 and 171 1 with a >>cli'>'*r»i:iiWtx, who arranj^wl auodry bear-
bailin)i8, decr^stalkings, and buar-hiiiits, for tiie piiiiit<n''s «aki:, and tbe
latter had thus an opportunity, nnder peculiarly favourable circ-unutaiMM,
of paiating these bcautilul pictarca, which may now be said to waste tlicir
sweetness on the wilderness bdng' but mrrlr ften by an eye capable of
«£iimatiiig their worth. The piotvres &tv all of the natural «ii(% and tlie
•nbjxwtn mostly — a stag oreipowered by dngs, a bear battling it with Ilia
assailants, wiltl Ixmr? i(nr|)ri)icil in n thicket by liiiritere, and oihor scenes of
• umilar kind ; and all w full of truth, that « formerly HauiiUoii became
fcra while a recluse here to study tlio phj-singnomy of tlw? hup^' lieoats of
the chacUj so a luodt^ra pointer, profitinj; by the labours of hi» prcil«XM*or,
might shut hi lu^lf up in tlie citstlt! fur a while. BJid pursu« a .liniiliu- coureo
of »tudy nith iii&iitely more oaae and eouvcniciic^. The tl»f^ in these
pieturi's arc nil portraits of animal* binoua in their dnv, iukI di^ierving
cvi-ti ^n^-nttn- fame now that they have been tmnsforred to tliK cnnvaM.
%'hen the French irere here, in 1742, tlicy ntnild fain have carried awajr
the whole coUcction, hut for some reason or other contented themselves
with culling tlm best hood — that of a wild boar — -out of the hctt picture.
The damage was i«rair«d as well as it could lie, but the scar is evident at
tlie fir^t glance, ancm is the iiifisrior workmanahtp of the modem artist.

After Wring Fruucnhci^, our neat visit was to Schloss Grntccu, another
fnicfus Mli. The bnt.tlc i>f the "White Mountain, which gare Boh*nni»
back to Ferdintind. anil which lost Frauenberg for the house of SInluwiti,
dcprired the Protestant Lonlx of Schwiimbci^ of thfir castle of Gratien,
vhieh tbcy defended tuliantly (>>r a while afrainst the impeno] tronpo.
Vitli the eastle went also their seven (Gemian) square miles of territniy.
The confiscated crtnti; wiw conferrtd on n Frvmchmati, Cliark-s Bonaven-
tun Longuc^'al. Count of Diicqiioi, oiiil Ikirou dc Vuux, whose dt^sccndanta
•till possess it. The ^ate is entirely unincumbered, ttiid is said to bring
in an annnal rercnoe of 700,000 flonns, or 70,(XM)/.

There are tlireo castles at (iralncn. One w the old fortrew tliat was so
lloutly defended by the old Barou voa Schwamberg, scotber is the sum-

■wr T«siid«ioe of the Count de Bucquoi, and die tliird M tn(cnd«l for lbs
arcommotliitiim of the <-autit*a offieera of •tut", in w-boi« hsntb is Uie ad-

^^BUtratiou of the lordsliip. Tlus central trovcnuncDt of dw estate is
lied the '' priuocly court chancerir," at the head of wfaacfc an four
' jRBMly court oounselloiB." These Bohemian noUcs exetoMi in laet m
BVkitiidie of nj(lit«, whi<^ in other counUiM wo ai« BCCUtofDvd to look
on ma the oxdusiiT attributes of sorcreignty. Tber CDii£er the dignity of
court couDBPllon, ^iitprivtk^ea to their cities, and oompOBoooalaararma

r4er cbem. The ma^iacnucs, £)w«>or, whom tbtjr appoint, tr« oblin^ to

' ^ throuffa the sainc «tudic4» and submit to t^ aame oiaminatifln M thoM

' imointM bv tliB itat».

We fenau the officers of the Buoqnm h«nseha]d payin); Menpliinefita ta
another at the eotrauoe to a aonctrtTootn. llciv, m od many of tli«
luee Mtates of mmic-Iuving Bolieniia, a prirate baud U kept, to ffire oo*
'— onal Moewts, and on the t%tea of the lord or lady of the castJe to ac-
Donpanjr tbe organ iu the oburdi. SvvctuI pivccs from Nonna and other
modem operas vrt'Tt pcrfunucil, Hnd wi-rt> exvcuU'il with toleraUebrilUaiie^
tbi^ |>vittlmMiii uf tilt! lu<iii»elii)ld w^te! loud in their o{iiplBuse, and t«9oli^
tliat tlie coii«Tt should W iv^H-atcd i>u ibt* following Sonday, the btrtbday
of the youRK Iteir, wbcn tlie money taken at the duotfi vaa to be applied to
the iflief of tlic poor.

We mpfwd at tho cwtlc, where the cooTerMtion turned <^iefly on two
«dgeds, psrtJy on the Ausavliohemtan frontier, and partk on uio gteafe
.fidnnads, the inoiC lolcnBtiag &Bture in ati econonucal point of view, of
"the larse plain between Wittingou nod Gmtsen.

In Northern Genoiiny, we understand under the namo of Austrian every
ooc wIm) comes &om any part of the ^reat Austrian conglonKTutiim of
JandB, prorided he BpeaUs German ; but evay well-eduented Bnbemiao,
fiuQf^ariao, Croatian, or Slovak, speakv our )uii)^a{^' ^ite as veil as do
the pHrpio of Vteiina or Siyria. Here on tlic moantain border, liowever,
tbe contrast between the linhcii)iiin and Austrian, and tbeir nuittud anti-
Itthini wen forced upon my attention. Of 4iyiN[>«ithie9 betirpen nn^b-
oounii)>; nations there isaeUaiii niucb lu bo mud. In Paris or Berlin ui-
Aiml. B Bobemiaii and to Austrian nmy 8\-mpatbiso with saeh other, but at
liunii* tliev know uf no snch feetiog. Not ntorely the common people in
fiolx-mia, but eveu the liigher dasses, pnrtic.-ipate more or Icsa iu thia
•fenion t» ihi^ Atutmus, ;um1 even tlie Oeniiaii part of the populntiam
agree mtlithe Slavonians in tliis, with irhom in other n^peeti they ora
litUe in the habit of niiigiiiK in uuiaoti. Our eveoin^ party at Gratsen
consisted alnust entirely of iicilieiniaji-Gemianti, yet 1 okacrrcd upon tha
oovntonanesH of nil of ihrm a cvrtuiii half-«upf>remMl «arcastie smile, wbm
I nndcrtiwk tbe defence of the Austnaiis, " Ay, ay," taid one of them aC
last, '' hunest euou^li tbey are, no canting hvpocrtbes like the Italians, and
liard working- raou^ too t but ^od God V and here he shook faitt head
with a tmik ef erMtot satis&etion, " what iinlii.>1(eil cubs they are ! How
sirfcwud, sttffiid, aiid. bdi^ess ia ererv thing-I In short," added he, " it if
a perverae and wron^beadad peopla.

On their port, the Aoctrituu reproach the Bohecnnu with inrinoeritT.
*' A false Bohemian," is acoinmou oxprcMiou, and tbe Austrian ^neraUjr
describes the Botiemian as a gloainy, mcbncbolr, nncomfortaUe oreatun*
1'iie antipathy Celt by tlie Bokwrniau, b»r«T«r, is doeidedly auriud bj aoM

TITK CASTXES AST> ESTATES OP SCHTTAltrrymEnG.

A fat carp. Mrv«^ iii black touco, comjxMMl McflrHing ia a nnlinniJ
recipe, of crKtviI giiiywbreail, blond) and odioiij, l«d our coDTCrsation na-
turuly to cbe gnttt twhpooda of the nei^fbbaurbood. Gnttzen hiu sivty
poadi^ tli« Uulunloni of Kroiiunau <«vonty, Friiu»i1>crfp oni> hunitr^d And
ibity-five> and Wliticignii two Iiundml and icvcnty. Amoiij^ these m tlin
odefarateJ Roootibmrg pond, nhicli occiipiw nearli^ tweUe biindred joke of
land) ^tn which mid the other Wiitiii^u pondi, na leas than four thoo-
BBud rwts. of carp arc ycnxly taken, aud aciit cliivtiv to \'i«iitiu.

I cftiiiiot uiy I eTermade myself bo fnniilinr with the roniplicntpd ij^item
of mnnngoinfiiit to which the Bohemiau fishponds are iubjei^ted, as 1 did
TritU the lua-nncr in wluch the fifh yarn usuaJy brought to table^ still, m I
atn not aware ttiat any of tlic trnvcIlL-rt who hnvc preocd«d me hnv« xpolcen
■it nit ujMii tile subject, I will enduitvourto give a coDdM wcouiit of what
I Ic-anivd about tL

Tlic main point, it Menu, ii to take care that at diflVrent ages nnd at
differeut seasoiu, the lish be provided wttli tlie depth of water KiiiUiljIe to
them, and also that the kinda of fish that do not euit each other should not
be put together in the ^amn fK>Ht]. Mow, as it id >n)]>oesible chat one pond
can latit^ all then deiiuunlri, the Bohemian Iniidowners liare brought the
ponds oa their eetatea into a sort of connectod «y«tani, and have ^ven to
each dan of ponds its separate destination.

FintJy there are the wood [>onda, {Drvl, or Sati-teichf,) in which the
youn^ (Ml receiii'C the mdinionu of their education. Hicso ponds an small,
aad contra but little food, that the rising guncration may not injure
tlieaueUvs by gluti^iuous indulnrence. In proportion, liowever, as the
Sony babes tmnriive in tht-, tliey aro removed to tlia Slreck-teiche, or
atrotchiu^ j>oada, where the intcrMting little ont* ore to begin to stretch,
tlieinjielve.s. Thence the creatures are remosed into the large reserroiis
called Hummer or Hanpt-tticfie. lu winter tlte water !s n'aiTnett at tlte
bottom, \ti suniiiicr at the t<>p; young fish, therefore, who require warmth,
ntmt often be put into ducfwr ponds in winter.

It would of coune be as absurd to put old piko and young carp into the
came pfirnl, as to shut up wolves and lambs in one etidjlc, At'cordinfjiy
there am eepai-ate ponds for each. ^\lien i\\<» tanj, however, grow old«r
they are apt to grow laey, and burj- tlieiuseKo.i in llii- mud, whitih prevents
thi-ir pro[>er developmcnl; and then, by way of gunkiiig tli<:in mort- lively,
a few young pike are put into the pond, for the purjiosc of keeping tho
young republic in a stAtc of hoolthfid excitement, Lke oppoaitioa men La a
representative assembly.

It may oaiily bi* suppojnd tliat all those PCtnoTftls and minglings nece*-
■itate a gn:at vnrivty of occupntionE. Usually the work is performed iu
sjning or autumn, and jfreat care and caution are iieeeiwary. If, for in-
stance, snow were to fail on a fish, he must nn no .iwount be put back into
the pond, but must be m>rit to market and. sold for what he will bring. If
a mndcn frost coven the ponds with ice, great mischief is done to the fish,
if air>hnies are not immediately oponixl. If this is not done, the fish swarm
to the furfute, and wen if they nre not sufiocatcd, they " burn" their find
against the ice. A scarcity of nater, also, in case of a dry summer, cauws
great dealruclion in the ponds.

The intcndants of the ponds require, of cour*e, at alt timM, to know
how much water there may be, and polvd.ntiirkL-d witli feet and iuchen aru
therefore fixed in each pond. A few inches too much may eanly occasiou

TRE CASTLrES AND ESTATES 07 SCHWAKZGXBF.KG. 81

inundations to Hi« neighbouring ficIcU, ftnd tben the <Lu»&ge uiudt be uudt
fooA by the ovriier of thu \toud.

Inuiieiise •waniif ^^C Iwnnu, wild duck*, ftnd otbnr wtttnrfoirl freqoent
thtt« poniJA, and the consoijuciUK in, that nil th« eurmuudioe p«iUMiutTy
bacoine practised nurksmen. Tlio birttfl atd particularly watonml fur cho
time wheo the water it to ba let out of a pooi), on which accftiion Uioy fiul
not to feiut upon th« fm^ and upon such 6*\i tk* nuiy happon tn hflro r«-
niUDcd in the mud. TIich?, hon-cvcr, they arc not lei'l in undisturbed
of, for it is ciutotnary. whcu the onaor of the pond has secured
tribute by means of nets, to abanflon what ia l*ft to tlic pMl-
BtaU. The poiid itupcolon ^fire thv aigual fur the scnuublo as soaa u the
ooble'i boxes vr thou^iit to lit- nuflictciitly fllltxL Tlic sig^n&J is for the in*
fpwtori to ory out Harzi hurzi ( It bunts, it Ininis) ; whereupon the crowd
ruah with loud crioi 'vM> the nmd, and dnvc the f^ee^o ana herons iima
their prey. The peauutts ohiaiti a gnod deal of li>h in thii way, and
prMVTT* A cixuid«rable (jiiantity for tliu «-iiiter, hy itincpkiiig theoo.

The geese and herons flr« hy no meiani |}i« nnly pltmderetrs of tliMfr
ponds, in wluch otters and beavers likewise abound, though len now tfata
ibmii>rly-

Od tliu following morniti]^ wn fttnrt«d for Kmnimau, the moit bmous
of all the casdea ia the neighbouring; coiintiy, and certainly onu of the molt
intercning of all the princely nmnaioiis of the Aurtriaii monarchy, with a
depondaut lord&hip of tll^eu (icrman Mjuaro niile^ and dfty thatuand in-
iMUjitanUi. The dulcc-dom of Knimmau is one; of dime hiuf-xovcrcigiiti*^
of which tlicrc hare ut nit times been scrcmJ in Bohemia, as the dukedom
of Friedland, which nas given to Wallerutein : the dukedom of Reichstadt,
with wKich Napoleon'i 4on waa invested; and the dukedoni of Raudnioc,
which belongs to the Prince of Iiolikuwitx.

You enter the lint courtyard by croMitiif a dniwbridge, and paMing
through a massive Eton« gateway. The casde ditoh vm formerly occupied
by a nuinber of bean, but tlietie have of Uto years disappeaKO. lu the
■aeond courtyard ftaiid« the giiard-liouiie of the Scliwantonberg greimdien
of the body-g^rd, n coqwi of forty iiiuii in splendid uiiifontiF, all iii the
prioee'e pay, and commanded by an oDicer who holds the rank of ca|)la>u.
Id thk oourtynni I paid my reqiects tn one of the oflicera of the cattle^
tod toh) him I wixhtNl to see aa much at powihle of the plaoit Ha aahod
me, with a smile, Iww many wpi-lu I int4-nde<l to derota to the inspaeUon,
and I soon found, panicularly after 1 liad had a glance at the archtrea,
that tha queilion implied hy no means an exaggeration. From the second
I pMwd mto a third, a fourth, a fifth, and a niiilb courtyard.

The casdfl looka ai if no part hod over Ixeii pulk-d down during the
whole time tlial it has been lucoeadvely held by the Rw^ctiberg*, the Eg-
pwiibergs, and the Schwaneuberg*. The whole summit of the hiU on
which it stands is covered by a labyrinth of tumU, walls, and other build-
tugs, in eveiy imagitinbh* itylc of arehitccture, with noble tiuiten of roonui
■uch as we are occustomed to look for only in imptriaJ iialacM, and liul*
nolnog holot, fit only for the rock-built nest to some robber ehicf of ilie
feudal dmcs. That tlic oldwt MTt of the old iiuildings must be very old
indeed, may be inferred from tlio simple (act, duit the must iitodcni jmr-
tion, dtc New Castle as it is called, it m<<ndoned under duit naiiui ia tlio
archives, as much as three hundred and fifty years ego.

Our first visit iu die interior was to die ptcture-galtcry, in which arr

THE CASTLGS AXC CSTATBa OP SCinrABXEinJEBO.

piMerved Uic DumberlfiM poitruU eS th« tuwu aiombefg of th« ttnvj
noblo hiiulirs to wborni ttic ta»tlf haa Bpenewiyrfy Irakngvd. WlHi ft]
&niily pnrty tliey woiiUI makr. if tlx^y oouM rH >icp from tlteb- cmraw]
ud join in b men}- feettral ! Then' would 1h> uniile nxuQ in the eull* *
CdtuI of them ; but there te only one of tlteiB to wLcm it it etill ^ireu U>
wander tbrouKli tb« nlil luJk ind oomdon, and tlii^ ts Benha. lou Jtoscn-
lier^, the oeleDrBted ^Vhitt! Lndy of Keuhaus, uf wboni a portrsit inajr here
bv neca as large as life

Tliu Bertha, or Drichta, was marnnl to a Lichtnistnn, a laauij with
wliicb tlio RoMfibergs, like their successors tlie Schu-aneDbercsi often ap-
raiiged roatriiaooial aUiancM, even hdbre the bride and briaefT^am had
heeii fairly cmaocipBtcd &om the craiA& Tlicic arc still Kuch thiiij^ wt
&niily (j-niijathiea and antifathiM snunig the great hoiuea in Austria, as
Hiert mre iti tho eariicaC timed of which a T«!ord haa bp«u jiraeerred, sod ,
some of the fiiinily fi-ud.i that tiavv tiiTi-ii irtaiiieJ to the («vM.-ut day triM '
tlicir origin to t)ie niiddlr agu. Now tliis Liehtcniibeint tlw husband of
Sertlia, WHS a mouBk'T, and treated liiji getitlc wife little bottcT thiui Blit<>-
beard did iiia. Ofieo in the raoming, it is nJd, SertJia's pillow wim fotind
Boakfd witit her teaia^ aiid tometimea even wilJi hei' LIixmI. Before hur
marriage A* it aufpoMd to ht-ra bam a* fuiul of the pleacurea nf the world
as moat yoaofi; tadiefl, but wbea it pl«AMd Jlearan to rclcwo her imm htr
iyraal, jJte retireil to the c&stle of her brother tlta Lord of RoecubcT^, who
about the aame tiuie liad loat bis wife, and with whoiu j>lte li^ed theDceforth
M a fomu -widow and a uotaUi.'! houwlu^iwr. Her cliief delight was t» do
•cti of kindnees to the poor, whom she waa to the habit of caiUn}; together
on certain days. Tor the purpose of enteTtainiiij^ them with a sweet diafa
(dulce nuu it ia exiled in the archive* of tiie citsUe), and which stil) ean-
tJiiU'Cs to be distributed. Attcm]>ta lutvc more than once be«n made U>
■llbttitute a money distcibutioQ, but the peti«anls huvc alvkya atoiitly
XMUttcd such an iimovatioa, which tliey ore a&nid " liertha auglit take
•Tniss," .

It is only in mom recmt time* tlmt black hnu Inien a4l[>[>te<1 in Di^emia,
&am Fraiire aiid GiTiiiaiiy, an a mark (if mininiing. Bi-rtlia, like lill widuwa
of her linu-, wore wliitr, wh)c]i titie t^iiitiiiucd to wc^ar till dc-ulh, when she
wan butii-il in l»cr white \vidow'a wocd*. To this she owed her name of
tile White Ledy, by which she waa knoan diiriug her life, and under which
ahe is now atmost wonthipped aa a nint. The people of thr- surrowidjik^
eouDby linnly beliftre that «he onntinucs to wander through tht eA<tl«s
then bdonipn}; to the hoow of Roscnbn'^, that site looks about to see
trhether the faou»ea are kept in good order, and whether the poor reeei«v
their dulcr imu regularly. In (general, in thi'.w her waiiilerings, aho is
inTiMble to every vye, but fomctiint^s «bc if srcii, a circumrtmicc always
Siqipoaod to aonofmce xoine great cnlamity to die family. Ou £ueh occo-
siooi IJm country -pen pU.< whisper tlmidlv into eaeh ot)H>r's ears — BhcAta
S* Itpttmberka khotli (Ucrtlu i-ou Rovtnberg 1:1 wauderiiij; about), and a
deat}i ■□ the family is Uien coiifidmtly liraked for. At Schhns Wil^naiu
thrni is a pomdor, and at Ni-uhaus atiotlier, whidi Berths is enppoeed to
have particidai4v m1«cI(^ for Her nocluraal promenade ; and Stfir of Ibe
ismatea are haray enough to vi^t either of theae haunted piusagee, except
under good stoort, uhT with ft euffident illaminatioii. To tw sure, by
dayllj^t, they mort of tbem tpealc of tha whole Btory in a very rational
instmor, as a popular fable; but I haro my dmibtt whether even tlie hewlsof

BfTtha ha.* uliowri benelf &f^tn to noital vy&.

Tiuav an tbrec portruitn uf the White Lotl;-, on« at cacli of ihw three
raitlfi ef Neultniu, AVittinfTKu, oaA Kniniiiiaii, nud tlii; three pictim« are
•0 exaetly alike thnt twu of tliem aie evideatlv onnicn, but at each eaatb
titt people mtuntaii' titai they pouese the on^ual. llur couatowaeo 10
pale aud mragre, and Wr f«a,tura full of mttlnnithiJy, hut with n. remoric-
aUv sweet pxprMsiao. Her whole person U privelopml iti n whit*> garmeut.

my fifnidc yna the captain of the body-f:iiaRl, who, as wo pa^ed from
■aae auilc of rooiufl to onotlier, apolonied Tor hin iiiii>erf(>ct kiioMrlod}^ oC
the Errt>nt labmtitli of ui)ui)iir\', hr teTling m* lie Iiwl niilv U-i'ii a jear ia
the hoiue. The protctit licnd of th« houM of SebwimccsiMTg U a youof
man,* who h»s Hi)Audoiied all theaeatatd/vhatnbenof abrrone tine^and
bin had a >et of nMuu fitted up for hini with inodera limplunty aitd com-
fort, iu a oomBT of tht* gntat hniiM. Tlion wiy, will you say, is not tha
reet of the pUoe turned to aceount, and niadt^ hahitnhlr (or tlioae, of whom
tbera are ao many, to whom the belter of a roof would he n hleMiii)^?
"Why, you we, my gitcA Ui-iid. a lar^ ludeas home is indi^ensablittot^
{>ropcr 6'if^ty of a gT<:-at fn-mily, and Aa tmrna of th« entaihoeiit do not
allow auDe'le corner of the uiaiuion to be sc^cctod.

If yotj w»h U) have a prnper notion of the imporlanee of the lords of
the eaMlu in fnnnor days, you muiit f^t and have a look iic the armory,
vhcre you will tin<l tliv whole rows nf trumpets luid kutUt^-dnuiis that wcro
mmt to miotic with t)ic family rc«vlry wlu-ii a RoM-nliet^g wAi inairMd.
There you will see a coUectiou of the coins and medul^ struck at various
Iddh hy tiie fanuly. Jtly vompauiou adsuied me that the Rosenberg were
accuitoinMl to keep ready at uU umei anns tor twenty tlioumtul men, and
that the artax now in the omiory wfwld (ufiee for tho aqn^iBHeS of neatly
that number, provide the pv^ter part would cootMit thernMlTWirith haf-
Wn)", partisans, and battle-asett.

The subterranean dungemw of thf" vmntie havo been imrred out of the
rode with ao immense oxpomlihiiv «f labour. We desoendtd with torclits
as if we had been gaior down iota a mine, and cajne U> tbc main idiaiftf
whirJi was Dotfaing cdw out a deep broad well, cut into the i iiltd rocJc, dom
iriiteh tb« prisoners ware lei by inoai^ nf ro|)C£. Wa; thnnr atenefl into the
dail abyae. and beard them eirlke the bottom after a few seoooda. We
threw down some whiaps of burning; straw : but even by these means, we
were uiinblc to obtain a eiew of the hottom. There are other dungeotis,
Im horrible thou the one de*cribe<l, but quite ti(;ly enough iii tJicir way;
yti one of them served at one time as a lod^nj; to the (jemian etnpcror
Vemaslaiu. who was locked up there, iu 1402, by Ileniy IV. of Roaea-
hetg, the lleurvfl of Koienbi-rff teem, indeed, to have been sad feUowa;
§ar about one hundred yenrs afterwards, anotlier Honry of Rotenbrrg put
•Am na^ittjatee into one of these dunfjeooa. (or eoming, in tliv name of
Hbm i^renM tribunal of the onuutn', tn fay claim to a portion of his eatota
for thv t/i>rd ef Schwombnx. Tliu claim wax fouuded on tlic wiU of
Henry's tirvdvccssnr ; but Henry denied the ralidity of tliv wjll, and niiute
tliv nta^ Urates eat tlie doeunients with which they had come aniied,
£«ery juu-Ude — Koia, .-li^puituiw, and all — were they oUijfed to devour ;

TBE CASlTVm AND BSTATK» OF SCnWAUZENBEBO.

ood whra th«y haA fiuishcd their mM^, th«y irtn Kt ^I«4^, and, by my of
accnlrruUD^ tlicir retreat, l}ie do^ irrra let loose upon tlmn.

Tile castle conlaiiM r theatre, witli a wardrobe sudicient for a dozen
theative ; A riding-KhAol ; and an affricnltural in«tituUnn, which, every
thjTV yvan tanu otit about tliirt}' iimctioii] and .'•ciciitilic fonnrrs who ure
mmrtly apt>aiat«d to offices nbtiut the Schwanfiiberg' esUtrc Then tliere
are colloctinn! of natural h'xtury, a chemtral [abonilniy, the cnstle church,
&«. £uj;lit)h cAJitlvj tuav te iui>rv coniTortubli; to live iu ( but llicy hare
little of tiiv iiitarn'^L that |iiTtain« to one of thvtw aiicieiic Au«trinii pil«^
whfrv rptnritir iintiqtiity is kci-ii ('■iiiiu<ii.<t<il ivith mixU'iii tini(>8 l>y an nn-
inttrniiitcd chiun. At KriininiAn iJ<^iu\ with iti l«^n<l8 and rominid-
cenccs, a moderately fertile writer uiig^ht find inat«riiJa for twenty ro-
maiice«.

The rt«p rtwlc on whifh the oMtIp tta^aig u wparatrd hy n deep r«vin» ;
from the rfniaindcr of the rocky plauou. Over this ravine niiu a corcrfd
hridfp. at ih* end of which you come nuddenly upon a beautiful j^arden
terrace, wlience tho view i* raviiihinply bftautiful ; tlio hold position of the
cadtlv. lis it looks dovrn upon tho lilth- U>-nn of Knimmau at the foot of
Hk hill, prmlucinff a most peculiar ciTccC. The Moldau fnrma alniost a
circle in the landscape; nuhing with great raptditv, by the foot of the
rock, and nearly surrounding the littW town, in which tlie chief building*
ftll date from the time of the Rosenberg* ; nt whtwc cost tlic churc!n-n iitid
conveats were erectm}, an welt as un old arsenal and an liutpitnl, and «
house which served as a retreat for the widow«d lady of th« ca«tle, vrh«a-
erer a new lord entered into jHWti'iuitiii.

TowanU wvcninR, after h«viiii; etyniyMl tho Iwautios of the garden, we
retired into tite estativ U> partake of the hospitality of the civil and ac-
ci>nimi>datiiigoifici^raoftlteestab]i]i1unent — tho direvtora, f«r«st«re,.iL(! wards,
&c- To those whf> know how wi-E! th.w geiitl»iiicn live upon the pii.i-
teiuioiiit of tlK< Aiistniui iioblea, it will Ix! Icm matter of mirprgiw to lu'cu- tif
the Iiaiidjomc suilea of rooms occupied upon tliiU cattcllatcd rock by sucJl
functionaries as the director of the castle, or the captain of tlto body-
guard. There arc no lesa than fifty tnioll gardeus {or deputalgiirlen)
dependant on the parlc, and under*tood to belong to the officer* of tho
castle. Thcsi.' Hfc s" niimcToiis, tliat tliey liavip a coffee-house williin tho
walls for tlieirown acconitnodailon ; indeed, so numerous are the tmp/oi/fi,
of onp sort or another, on the estate of the Scliwarzenborg, that tho
printvd list of them fonns a tolerably thick octavo volume.

A wood ii^'flT Kniiiirtiau, is the only place in Bohemia where bears are
yet to V' found in the state of nnturt?. They arp pri'sen-ed with some care,
defended »g^nst poachers, and vccaMou ally fed w^lliliorselleih, though iu
gr-iii^nl they require no oilier food thiui the ln-rries and I'ooki which tliey
liml ill iho fiire«. Tlioy are mostly liiinnloso, uinl no one now living n.>-
tnemben the time wKc^n a human creature or tame autmal was torn to
pieoee by tbooi. The l.xst lunu in the iieighbourhni^ who had oonie. into
OoUuion with the War* died lately. He was pasning lhrou)^'li tliK fiu-wt,
snd Racing a young cub tiiinhling about nn ngniMv glade, ho took it into
hia head to carry tl»e creature home. Soon, however, ho saw to hii horror
that the mother hjid w*n him, and wa« coming after him hi full juirauit.
He act hia ptn»ednivn immediately ; Iwit tho mother, after having amelt niid
caxeHcd her IttUa one for a few initants, resumed the cbacc. The poor

JeDow nm for bu Itfe, and wiu jtitt in Unw to mrli the entT&ncv to a
r ae ig hh ouring fkm, wh^ro h« foil down »cnw)«M ; ami wh«n iiw a^nranU
He Dvt to lu) lusistancv, it was found ihat lh« angiiuli luid temr of
rtiMM Feir monienu bad Lt-eu tiutlicuiiit lo wlutcm liu lutr.

FBOM BUDWEIS TO LfKZ.

BudiTM ifl enmplittfl^ n GtrmiKii rity tliott^)) in B«>h0niiii, and hu tlio

■dviata^ of beln^ the bifir^eet point to nbicb any of tbc tributarily of

the Elbe is navig^e. ^'itliia ttielve Gernian imltts of this point liai

l.ttiz on the l>uiiibc, niid the approximation of two mcb important navi-

Lgiblft riven hu at oJI tiau-s caused a vftry active coiniucm to be euritd

K«o between the two diies. This comincicc has of Intc years bc«o pro-

^Boteil bv many iniprovcniciits in the aavij^tjoi) of the Moldau ; improve-

B«ntd for wbi'cb ilic country standa mninty indebted to the exertioni of

Mr. Laiina. a sliipbuildLT, wliow tiniK-r'yan] ut Budwcis iio stnuigrr utij^ht

I leave unriaited. it was ho who built thp »iiipFtu>inii-bndg« Ht Prague,

it it owinj^ to him tlint no leas than seventy i-i^seU so coiistruncd aa

' nut tkc nttvigatioo of ttic Etbc and Mulduu, arrim uow evtrr^ year at

Stulweit, and that there is ereci » rcgiiliir riv«r cuinmunicutJDn kupt up

twcvn tho latter plaw and llaiiibtu;g.

One ofthecouaoquviK-u uftbu luvuiuable geograi>hical po^tioo of Bud-
web va.i, tint one morning' tarly, at flru o'clmrli, I repaired to the office of
the niilroad, with a view of einlnirkiug my jier»on in a train about to
Mart for Liiis.

The LJin-Butlweia railmail ix the grandni other of all the ntlLroadK on
Euit)pean continent ; and, taking tliiii intn cuiuudfratiou, we must not
deom it mntter of surpriae to Hnd il nnanifc*ting ocwwiuruJIy some eymp-
toinfl of tlie debility of nld are. It vhoa l]ie coup d'cjiaat of Banm \oa
Centner, v}io nfterwurdx laia down ruilK in Tttuoin, and died in America.
Hi> hail ]>TO«t natural diftir-ulti(>« to conttnid with in the mounlainoui
iwioii over which the road had to be carried. To orercom« thew di£*
ontw he was obltg«d to malie hia rikilnud tjdce so circuitom a rmite^ that
thou;^ tbe diatanco betwocn the two town*, in a straij^bt lino is not
tuore than ten (Gerinaa) milcei the [sIlroBd ha« a Icn^h of seruuteen.
After iirriTtng at EinK, tbc railmnd ii> farricd ten iiiiti-s further t<i
GmQuden, fiw the eouveniumco of the government guk-warke at lliat

phce.

The railroad from Oudweix to Linx cost 1,700,000 florins. It eoasuta
of a lingle pair of rails, with iLrranj^mems at interinc-diale »tal*Oii> to en-
able two trains to pUM each otiicr. Tho rails are partly of Styiian, but
cliii-dy of Bohcmiani imn ; partly cn^t and jurtJy wrought. In many
plattv they seem sadly in want of re|Kiir. Some have been completely
mm away, others hivd loat their nails, and stand up frriiii the wooden
alee[ierv to which tbcy vttrv ori^ially fudtuued. Soiuetiniesa very lenMble
jdll of the carriages nmiitids the piui«en|j<T« of a utrihijig diflcrcncB between
the re-tpactire altitudes of two eiieeeedin^ rails ; at other times adrag must
bo piit upon tho whoeU, to prevent the train from mttliiig down the hiU
st a too rapid pace. My jmiTiiey wait pi-rfonned immediately afWr laiay
weather, wliich bad made the nul« extremely dirty and nUppen* : and I find,
from a oiomorandum in my joomal, that otu- wheels occasionally sunk uito

rnOM BCDVEIS TO usz.

tfav Hift etrtb. Tt Uevidt-utfrmn «1] this, tluit tlm rulroad DOit hftT« bera
ipft in ft vciy ne^Wtoil <«i>dili.>i» j biit iU trnpoilimcp to tho eoRuuefvo <rf
the Danube is m> gieat, tlint tlie gOTemnent will be obliecd, b«faco loDgv
to «t«p ill, luil l>jr ft timely- treatiiMiit, mdeavnur to sare thii gmdiDodiv
r&ilroAd frttm ah untinMyly fate.

Tbe tmiiu on Uui nulrood ara dmvm bj' bnnci^ nnd owbg to the la-
Mjualilics of tba ground oret which it pimms, thera is little likelihood that
stoam locomotives can ever b* introuuced ihertt. Oiie hone gooeniUy
dnvn two or three caniupes ; but vvnivlimn t«o or three borw« an jroktd
on, in wliich case the train rwniiifts iiT cix, Mvcn, or nrni t-ighl cftmage*.
On an aFCRiifo, a h(ir»e is R.bl« to draw from tereiity to a Iiuiiilrnil cwt., ftt
a aktw walk ; tbe train* for pAnMSf^en travel nt a unait troL On tbe
ecnmnnc) nnd, in tliis muuntiuiious duitnct, a ttone caoiiot well draw mora
than twelve cwt.

Tlie rich kingdom of Bohenuft haibeen m^Iv nef^tected by Nature with
miwct tn -Hnlt, mic of the m-cesnrie> of life. Erery {xuticle (Xriuumnl
within thv kingilom cornea from beyond the Danube ; and tliis salt trade,
one of 0» chief mpporle oF th« railroad, hu likewise Iwl tn an actJTe axa-
in«rce in other jfoods, Mer(.-IuwiliM> of various dewTiption* find* itA way
Croiii Trieste aiij SoutlH*rn ItaJ^to Gmdrkleii, to be forwarded by railroad
te Boheiiiia.

Tho t«nninus at Budweia is in the centra of the town close to the im-
perial salt-ma^axines, luwl to tliMte imigaainee tlie trsvtilterfl nnd the salt-bags
tnost alike rt^pnir. [t nau, lu I Mid, five nVlock in the morning when I
mode my nppraronce cher«, and found Mir little on^vhotve trains rvady to
start, as liicjr did tdmoi^t inniifdiutcl^, at an cnay trot, with hitring- about
fiftqr J— epgen in chjtr;^. Tbe eoeclunea nt on their bnxnt smutting
tketr inpea, and the dranght wu evidently so easy, that had tlu< horMe
been in the habit of indulKinjc; iu the polivnou* vrecd, they too might have
■muted their leisure by " bloivinj^ a cloud" as they went along.

On a railroad where tlie trniiis ani ilrawn by horses vou trarel with
IfiflS noise than you dc> cither on oov where you an; hurrica along* by strata
enginesi or on u common road. I was, tnerefnrc, soon cngaeed in an
^giceabk conversation with my fellow- traveMera, and we wsrw Mila to dae-
cnea undiitttrbed every f>bj«t that i^rcsented it*elf within the reach of mr
oonstaotlv varying lionson. At Leoixddsrhlafr we readied the hiefaeafc
level of t»w ixiad, and were there two thousand feet over the sea, tad one
thooaand qvit the pltun of Budweis. At this point likewise we qnitted
fiooeinu to enter Auntria, iitid oouii pprvcivt'd nyuiptouid of our bavii^
arrived among a iiiort> indiutrimu population thnii that, we had left, thoi^n
this part of th« iirchduchy of Austria is far from being its most populous
or belt c^ultirnled dislriet. Dotaclied fiirmhouses beecaoe more nomcfoUL
and tyiough the c^ttaicji an; itiill Isigv, you see no longn- so striking aad
pmnful acoiitrul. ax in Roheniia, betwtum tite oittlo of the prinw and the
peasant's hut. Many of the peoaants, on the contrary, havi- houses noite
ae eomiortablc aa castira, and most of them have a wcU-to^do look about
them.

Tlio fsinily of which one hoars «> mneh on tbe Austrian side, oa one
data of the Roncnbrrgs and Sehwarzen'^erj^ on tho IJohcniioii side of tlie
lnU% is die fainily of the Stajhembergs who. &otu time immemorial, have
been men of might on tliu Danube, and, in the middle ag<«, weiv often
involved in winguiiiary feuda with the Itowubtrgs. At present, three rich

PROU BUBWEIB TO UKZ.

Steriiembergs dwell dose together, — a prince, a general, and a count, —
wIioH caitlea we bad on opportunit}' of admiring a8 we passed along.

Many interesting and picturesque views present themselves on the road,
ihough upon the whole it is much shut in by woods. Just before reaching
linz, however, as we were rolling down a zigzag line into the plain, a
magnificent prospect opened suddenly upon us. The plain of Lmz, the
picturesque ranks of the Danube, and the distant Alps in the background,
combined to form a glorious picture, and while we were yet descanting on
its beauties, we rolled onwards through the gates of Linz to the imperial
nlt-magaziues, here, fta at Budweis, the terminus of the road.

UPPER AUSTRIA.

LINZ. — THE CAEPET MAKUFACTORY.

Whi^n, in the middle a^^es, an individual presented himself before the
eyes of his fellow-men, it was known immediately, by the colour and cut of
bis garments, to what rank he belonged, and what was his vocation ; but
in our times, when superficially, that is, as far ns the dress is concerned, all
are more or less equal, — although the real dbdnction of persons, according
to position, dignity, and wealth, are as sharply defined as ever, — a travetler
in a umpie brown frock-coat, enteiing a I^z manu&ctory, may be taJcrai
for, — what may he not be taken for? particularly if his Gennon accent sound
eomewltat foreign to an Austrian ear. He may be a Dr., a Professor, a
Privy Councillor, or a military officer of high rank in civil costume— or an
" Excellency" — or perhaps, what would perhaps not be among the least
welcome, he may bo a traveller for a great mercantile house, come to make
large purchases. " Assuredly," thought I, as a crowd of obsequious per-
sons met me on my entrance into a noted carpet -manufactory, greeted me
most courteously and expectingly, and hastened to display uieir wares, —
" assuredly some such fancies are passing through their heads." I held it
therefore to be my duty to explain to them, that in leaving my home, I had
left behind neither kingdom, nor nabobahip, nor lands contuning 10,000
Bouli, nor a capital of 250,000 fr. rentes ; but that I stood there simply a
cunous traveller, or, if they wonld have it so, a traveller desirous of infor-
mation, without any design whatever of purchasing, or carrying off any
thing more than could be conveyed by the eye and ear; whereupon, to my
admiration, these people seemed to hold it no less their duty not to abate a
particle of their hospitable Austrian obligingness, but rather to assist me
the more zealously m viewing their labours and productions. I was the
more curious about them, as I knew how considerable a part tlie lanz
febrics play in the Austrian manufactories, and to what importance they
have lately risen.

As late as the year 1783 or 4, the Linz woollen-manufactures were
nearly the only ones of the kind in the Austrian states. They were founded,
I believe, at tne end of the seventeenth or the beginning of the eighteenth
century, by a citizen of Linz, and are the oldest in Austria. This citizen
made them over subsequently to the so-called Oriental Company, which
hod a privilege for tKe preparation of woollen stufis of aU kinds.

THE CARPET MAKUFACTOBT.

The bad ecnnomy ivluch mgaei m the afiaira of iTie comniuiy, *od tlw
profiu« vxpcntlituro in thft erctrtion ot ini;vcrb and tmnf^vi^nrily la'^ build-
uigs, threaten**! the uudertikiii;; with ruin. To prevent the injury whicb
the stoppage must; have caused to the many indiriduali interdtlt^l, the
gorernment took the husioe&i under cbdr own mauagoiii^Hit, n't^rvinj^ to
ti»ciiiK'Iv«s the privilfgwi huf'Ttf ffraittcd to private porrom. The interval
betivfm 1 "40 fuid t\u.- fital aWitiwti of these privilcgw, niaj- be eontidered
to liave been the period uf the gn.'ateft splendour of the establishment :
there were employed at timea more than aO.OOO workmen, spmner* and
wearent in Bolbeitiui; aiid In Linz aiojic n-ut Ic-ki thtm 2000. The great
mind from wliicb nearly ail tht- new lif<^ in the Aii*tri«Ti Ux\y politic emx-
ntit^t), Jowph, abolished tlie prtvilcp%?s bj* which these I'O.tKK) men profited,
at the cost uf tiiauy niJUIoiu ; a.nd »ii)UG llut time, tlic worknirn, n-nttLTttd
over all parts of the nioitarclty, huve foiuided in an u fat-lories in BmnD,
Vienna, mid other citici, nnd )invR kid U)C foiindaiinn of the now con-
^(Icrahlc woolkn factorifw of Lower Au*t-ria and Moravia.

Since then, tho Linz factories have declined, and their greitt barrack-
Ii][e buildiug«, stand partially empty nnd seem awaiting another deatiiift-
tifln. Two limnebej alanc of tho noollon man ti factory hare acain stnick
root and pnoper: llint of carpets, and the printin); of woollen table- cni-ers.
So much taste is here displayed in these articles, the colours are u> Utelv and
80 l&titin^, that the productions of the Lini nmuufactorieji have ohtmned
Maaidcnible a:lehrity in tiiv shop and tliv dmvniig-room. Tliey barn
varchooies in Leipzig, Pra<nie, Miliiit, Vienna, I'vstlt, &c., aud exports
have ewii been niadu to Fnitice and England. Their cttraoidinary
cheapness will no doubt lend ti-i a further demand for tbefe goods. For
five or six floriii.i' H luoi^t. artidtii-Al mid inii(;iiiliiH-iit bouniiirt. of flowcn
may be purchued; while one of the (juirklyfAdinfr pniJnctiona of the
gamen woold cnet double the money. £eCabli»hmont» for woollen prmting
are still rare in tlie world, antl it is therefore the more cheering to learn that
tlie art has already been brought to tucli nerfeclioD here. It seenni to me,
bowever, that tliey have been partly indubu<d for thi.'ir proj^reui to the in-
fluence of France 1 tlio dciij^utta, at least, arc in part French, and the
newest drawings are mode from detigna received from I'aris, which city, in
the invention of new sliades, and in the amn^ment of tasteful wreaths
and Ki^UF* '^^ flower?, Is ccrtiuidv not to be excelled. Ttiv person, too, at
the head of tho caqtct printing, ih of French descent.

The name of ttiis man is Dufnesni?. lie took the trouble to show tne
OTO* the table-cover department, and, as I riiiit sneh o.stabliabments much
more oo account of the men tliaii of their productions, Lr bi^anie tu tiie,
ID a short time, an object of mnch interejt and respect, lie haltod in big
nit, aiMl in speaking of his inHrm 1imli, related the bLif^iy of bi« life. Hia
tatlKri a French eiutgraut, had »oiig]it refuge in Viemia, and there endca-
tchitm] to gain a livirliliuod hy the eiitahh»liineiit uf a nnall cotton -jirintiii^
betnr>*. An Aiutrtiui noblemiin, Count X., a great fnuiid to the
Fretivu, lent Inm a small capital, and a corner of \ui nonse. The biuineai
tttnitd out well, the fiitber nojied for the re-estalili-shment of his worldly
prosperity, and tlie ttm, who had been liorn vuhiiD<|uenUy to tlie flight of

" The Austria* fltwin U equal to nWut two sbillinK* «teTlinp. The Itlienlsh
Asrin w worth ralliK Ion. Ten Anctnan iioint are equal to ouc pound, or to twdre
BNnlih floriiw.

so Tira CAKPET SIANUPACTOKT.

lu> pweati frofu Fnnce, wu deitincd for the militaiy serrice; birt
BeaTeo willed it oikerwiw ; bis borao fpll nitJi him, liin le^ wm brokviv
and duttedorwaid hn maie up }iu mind to follow Iim fat}>n-*s purmit.
Soon aAcnrards hut btber iltMl, !«« wcoltlty than he had hopoa to h&^
and ihc son found che buetnns nvccanry ta tne mainteoaitcc of lii» mother.
He ftudied how to iraprovn it. and hating cmp day nivt with Kimr Eng&h
woollen prindnff, he oerer rcsttKl til) h«i hnd mM only imitntvd, Ixit sor^
psMcd it. Harin^ thiu f^*rii up it) adtvmty, and bein^e; <^owed tnth aa
actire ifKrit, he had nuuKi tiiiiiMtlt' wlijU he wai when I saw hiui, " Imperii^
and Royal luspector of wncdkm printing," with » good nkij.

The manufactofy which I invpvcted in M- Duneanc'a cem|Mtny wis «x-
CM^ngly well amuigei^ dean, lirht, and in good order. In the iarj^room
when tlw colour •eCtera wont btuoed, I read on a board eonapicuouslv olaeed
tiNM word* writttm in cItnUc: " With Gcd'^ oid." " You ai« anpnied?^
ctaci red M. Dufrcsnc. " but you will see this is the cUivf point. Our Mnnoa
u very labonoiis and difficult, and requirM not only clever and thoo^cliil,
but also dilij^it and «>nsc>entious icDrffpcople. 'When I give a pattern to
n cokur scttvr, I eiTC him aUo Nom« direction how to proci-ed. He muat
listen and ^>ply (nil chcvriiillj, Init he innst also consider well with what
, cotour it will be best to begin and end, and give to tlivee matters aoal and
att>.>iition, 84 a painter wovld do ; for I cannot att«nd to the detail, an{[
Diu'tt tn»t nnicli lu the oonacwntiou-iaeM of the wnrknxni, who by a sing^ls
CUCfesa rt^ mipht ncnuioii Jfrrat daniag*. On thvir nide they iinwl haro
lUl oonlid«n<^ in m^, and appiv to nic in all difficult points. All thi« i«
he^ obiainnl wlieii a iiion keepe id mind the words you sec written then-.
It i* »<iid that thn inniiMt mnil of all art is* religion and the fear of God. and
oiir work iii n Itind '>f art. 1 CaLe ait workman of uhnie cbankcter I am
net certain ; I ptty far marc bccd to this than (o tlinr skill. And when I
hate taken one into niv employ I observe him closclv. and note whvtlicr
he worlu in n pious a^urit. Many a one have I dismissed solely on ac-
coont of Ilia want of ci>n4cictitIotisn«M, and I believe the chest of the im-
perial and royal manufactory hnti bct-n the ^ncr by this policy. Wo
■M>cin !n the moniinu; with n shnrt iirayrr, and thuso words ant nersr
•naoed from tlie board. I havo a dvsi^ of inscribing on a tablet over the
^oor* tkoM fine lines bom SchUlcr'a Sung of the B«U:

* Anil when wUh jjood diaconrfe ntl«n<liij.
The co-iuwa of labuur dieviful Duws,' ftc."

and 1 believe money so laid out will yi^Id a good tntcrcst. Now you aeei.
air, yon know my way of thinking," addrd iM, I^frcsnc, ninlUnp and clap-
ping nie on the Kli<)uld>^r in a friimdly ninnnc]'. as t applniulcd nhut he had
said, and he fiirther entreated me to write my name in liia pocket-book at
a Dii^utriaL

Tiic mnniimliition of the wool ia one of tho prvtiiett oniTations that can
be eeen, and I think tliitrt^ tuuit bo nioro plea«nre in workin;^ at carpcta in
a Tunnuructury animatrd by *o ffnad a spirit thaa in wearing out thtt
fiiiighrdiiroductinduU company. Tho workman haa the Urgv white n-onlliHa
fabric spread out bt^fore hiin, and by it the dengn, the oMOurad dntwtng.
The diOereul tints arts set lingly witk wooden typea, tuid the workman Lu

* "WcoB gate Bcdcn aje bc^lcitcn.

So SiMt die Arl>cil uiuut«i furl," &C

■oon the utufncdon of «Mutg the [lieUtn imfold lUdf with UiImiiIiIs rapi-
dHj* b«fe<e htm. Th«fo nre nbout t«n fanudrod «nd fottjrdiffiifcnt ilfieignfl
fijr cQTtn in Uu otablMimcat. Thia aumb«r may at first iipp«ar souilt,
Iwt the ^ffico]^ of workinj^ a new pattern ta very gnat. A peculia.r |j!an
. be punniea with ermj one, and of coune for evory cii« a now wt of
Icii ti-pcs made. Some of tlic colours ar» tct abruptly ono b^ tbe
otliDT, and Mime nro paitioUj corcml tuti jo^ntlv sliadf.'d into each other.
In this manner, with ton pots of colnur, twenty or ihirtv tints are prodiui^d
eo the wool. It i* p«rticii!ary ditlicult to jndg* when the sioglc colouis
maj be bcit placpd, in order to prc]Mtre uu> wooden tynes accordingly.
The true life, spirit, tone and sof^nes* are f^^vpn to the eotouts by the hot
v^Kwr to which the fabrie u afterwards exposed for a time.

THE MADHOUSE.

Near the woollen manufaclary, and like it, by tbe side of tlie Danube,

.stands this edifice, wht<^h was erected long nncc, although thn citr hoa

' llut twenty-Eve tlino.'xuid inhabitants. 1 wai Bocompootcd by the oblipng

eveneerof thr tmuM-. which, at the period of my vigit, contained about.

eighty nmply insane patieata. Among these were some tliat eipedallf

awakened my aympathy.

One wan a painrtT, d Tyrolt^sd who liail dtstTiiguished hunaelf m th« war
tl freedom, and had received, in consetiiience, a small sum of money fraia
(he gnvemrn«nt. As he had shown from his youth taate and talent for
drawing, and had aJrendy studied it in aome degree in Vienna, he amnv-
priat«d this monpy to the pi(pen»ca of a jimmey to Italy. In Rome, how-
«wr, nn eornporing hinuelf with th* great hnng, and greater dead, nuu-
tnt, he became annre of tlio little he was likely to acccrmpluh with the
greateit exertion. His anxioua labours, unsupported as it appeaml by
. tne ceniun, iudiim>d a d<'gnN- of morbid exciti>mi'iit ; htj efl'orUi could not
faiin, and the ma:itii'rpiecc9 of art, which he e«w daily b«jbr« lun
■ ^mwured tn his eyw so nianv reproofs of his own incapacity. He was noi
I s bad draughbmaii, ami lind he «tuel( to the peneil, lio might have beoiima
good lotuhematiml or archit«ciunil arti»C IJiifortimaVly h* did not
poncM ^>c prudence so many wajit. that of contenting himwlf with his
own mndHt portion of talent, as God had gireii it him, and putting it to
iimrj in the pr«cribtd direetion. In the exertion to become a dijiingnished

r'lteTi and n^och a height unnttainablv to him, he destroyed himM-If^
d««|iairhe fled Erom Rome, aud n^tnmed to lii< fri«iid»— a madman.
t'Xk now fancies that oil-colonrs are baneful to him imd full of poison. The
Kght of aa oil-paiuting catuM hiui Lhu grcutert BufTering, ana every tiiiag
that lendit to remind him of bnixli or paletlii itinKt tie earefiilly kept out of
"iwigbt. He takvs a plea«uri> in the itw tiftiiecrAvonnni) lilaektead-[)encil,
1 MVenJ of the patients have had their purtmits skctch<-il by liim, very
Ukenesacs, hanging up orer their be<K I found him uccupiod in
' a prrity little lan<1*cftpe, and lie hiRiM>ir astun^d me, with a friendly
Fjmile, tiint it wius his pernliar minfortune to jmffftr no mueh from oil-eolottr*
'that h« should die on the spot if he onlv amcit tliem. Komc, Raphael,
Correggio he had <]iute forpotten. In madness itself there is a land
hqi|wioea and ttmti'iiullity ; the condition that precedes it, the stniggla

9S THE HADHOUBX.

between rMtMii find frwin-, nitwt be inGnitely mon; tcrriblr. \^Tiat clinm-
hon of torture must the »lti(li'» ajiil gnll«nc-i of Rnme have bem for thu
man I 7^« bwomtnt/ ftiad muft be liki^ on active Muilbifratinn, but tlie
beiiijf mul must rewtulile th« condition of tlio lnimt-<>iit rditice^ tnore
fvnrfu), i>ei4iB[M, to the spectator, but (u leas &i(^htAiI to the suflienr
tluui tlic forrnOT coavuUioa.

In another roooi m jtoot lunntic wiu biuily rubbing a broia ring. lift
told ns witli great glee, that it vss becoming brif^hliT luiil bngbtcr, aqcL
that iht gold would »oon appear. The director told ufi he Imd bmn rab-
hiag that rinj; fvr w-cvkt bojptrUicr, t^iid i-very day asAerttiig th« same thin^ ;
B prize in die lottrry had been the ori^^iiul cniw of bl-> cidaiiiity. lie liod
vuted Ilia tniiDpy in idle Hctrava^ucv, and in a sliurt tiiiii; all wai g^iM
but a few hundred ll«riu». Ibeso he made use of to ntiTcboxc Hdy mors
sluirt-s. Tliuy cunie u[i all blauks, nud the ^ulf t'f niiu lie saw yawiiint^
bvfon' liiin driiritTcl him of Ids reflwoii. Stiice that time he has oniploycd
bimM^f in |»oli«hing bnua ring« iii tlto mpcutation of thfiir taming to
goM.

In all the AwtriBn htitatie aaylumts we hear wonders of the Douche or
cold water cure, ntjd, iu Litix, noconiinj^ly, wo were told of a stnUing cura
pcrfcrmed by the help of tiiis roniedv in the course of the preoediiijf
Bumsicr. A man labouring long under (tie dii-pvat inulnitclioly. and a
my to monomania of all kinds, which ended in periodioal fita of perfect
mnnr, waa eompletely eunrd in the eouree of tliree weeks by the Douehe,
and uismiised to his fcUows oa a reiivoniible being'.

Here also, behind an iron grating, we »*w nonie poor wrctehw whose
madness bad aJready eost the lives of several fcllow-crontures. Anioii}^
tlicm were somv of whom it was doubtful whether their dveds should be
atoned for on the KCAfTold, iir their cocrrciiou *nuglil for in tlie niadhnii»G.
The story of uiiu was pnrticularly horrible. Tlii« ihtkoii was a citisen of
Lin^ noted uutc ten years befuru for au uucooqucrakle dread of $pc«tros
and ivitL'hcs. Ill every atraiigfc noiwi and e\ery unfiual ap[)earanee, he
faiu-ied the presence of !iu|jeniatiual infltiencc* ; even liti onn wife, if tlio
ap])earcd unotjH-'ctfidly before him, wan *nmetim«< tjikon for a sprctre. I lis
will' WII9 itctustonicd to lauf^li at uid ridicule her hunbaiid for these puerile
terrors. On one wild and stormy erenin^, when all the vanes and window-
ahntters ahook and nittled ionriuUy, she said to hiin, "There you fonlinh
man, some of your witchw will etrtunly come to fetch you to-night."
The niglit came on, and the uuhnppy miiii became more silent and terror*
stricketi. At a late hour one of the children awoke, and the mother, un-
able to still it eried at last, " Slwj) you witch's bn»t, or I'll kill you,"
These tlioughtleu words iwt»ii liku an electriL' spiirk oii the diirk fnueiL-a
thai lily hroiiding in the trimbW Irain of the miserable m.in, Armed viitii
ft hntonpf-, ho spmng to the crndlo of the child, crying', " Ves, yes, witch's
ciiild ! Kill it ! Vv'itcbej ore all around ua and alxtut u.i '. I'll kill yv all."
His weeping wife ajid shrieking childrwii wrn- all nnmlerfd one after the
other, and then n poor mnid^ii^rvimt. H« rlien loirrod all the ilitor^ and
windows to keep out the evil spirits that mi^fht be without, and watcUi.sl
the whole night through, armea with his lialcliet, by the brxlies of tJii^ hujj-
posed wicches. The sun was standing hii^h in the heavens, when (lv>
unghbogrv MW him crossinf; the str«vt bearing the cones of hie children^
dripping with their gore. IIo called out that they were witches' uliildren^

JESUIT SCHOOL. "^^^ff~ 93

vhom lio wu gnin^ to throw iuto the wat«r. IT« nas immediAtftly M-tied
SB A fiirioui Mid miscliievmi; m.-iniiu?, and hu been «T«r sinc« confined m
tb« ^rat«d cell vliert nt Wlii-ld Kiiti crouclung beTorc us in die straw.

JESUIT SCHOOL.

If the object of the Ltniatie Asylum be tho rertontinn of tite cnucd to
ftuoii, llio Jt-Muit tcliool mAy be h«lil in tome nnjwct* m oho for reudering
erasy thiiMwIiom nntuirhiw miuic ratiortBl, nt I^ast if we share the opinioni
of many of llie enli^hteued of our timeo wit,)) rcgarxl tt> the JtMuiti. Liai
poeaesies one of their schools, mMIv eii(iu|rh iiislallcd in anv (if thiiM ce*
lebntsd towcn or citatlets whii-li surrcmnd tlii< cir.y with their strong
girdlf*. T)i« Archdtilto MA-nimilinn, who [>]Anii<il and built tbeee toweni
gave the Jesuits nne of those firat built, fi>r an espcriniciit, and at hi* own
coat, on the Freil>er^. The MaximUiiui towon are large, round buildings
with tiucli w&lin, as great a ]>ort!on of them beinip sunk under prround U
appears abaro it. I3dow the Icrel of the so\\ thoy contjun several storiet,
vrbile above it they rite but a few feet, and these are pai'tiy covered witll
turf, to that from without, by ^ic additional shelter of a (rradually elcirat«d
vralJ, tlicy arc uvurccly to bii ktd. Tlic balls of the cTivmy must for tho
most port Bv harmlessly over them, while llieir own, duchar^d from ca.B-
fion ruinj^ but a few inches from the sod of tho bulwark, aiid hidden be-
aides in deep hollowa iii the wulU, must buivt quiU- uaex|>ectMlly out of
the grus. All the- towrrs, to thi; num Wr of scri-iitwn or twenty, stnnd in
s Mrtain regtOaj* eoiineKion with one another, yet oavh k suK('«|)tilile o£
individual defence, if the chain were braken, and could pour its firo on an
adTancin^ enemy an wi-lE from one side oh the other. Really, if tlie illus-
trious and dt^ily ex[>eneiJC6d ini'eiitor wenr uot known, one might fancy
tliix dcrcit«ivo *yst*?m th* invcnition of tho .Jesuits tlu-mw-lvos.

In theso fortresses the fathers arc now finiily established, after roakin^
such chaii]T*>s an thfir own wants and taste dictated. On the ttitck bomb*
proof f^nniid- Will Is they have ntured two additinnal sUitict ; the interior of
tltD fortress is laid out chccrfullv, tho exterior washed over with on u;{tco-
able ted colour ; every door beam the iaitials J. 11. S., and every niche of
tbe walls, where formerly cannon were lodged, is changed into a steeping
and littug-rooni for the accommodaUon of tb« pupils or the supcrion, «&-
tainabli! by cle^nt winding sturcujtcs running round the interior of the
building. In :idditiou to the towers a garden was bestowed on tlieinr
which is most diligeotly coleivatcd, and a second piece of ground on tlio
roroinost {xiitit of thv Freiburg, wlioru they li«vt! built &» elvgant luiall
church ill the Gothic style

Tlie most striking piece of furniture in this church is a magnilicent
(Jiroue-liko scat with u canujiy, buth so bedisc-iied witJi gold, (hat one can
icarcely Ixdii'vi; it dcRtintnl ftir a tilnce of pmyfr, and for those wlio should
set a conspicuous oxaniple to tho llock, i^f htmible devotion to God. But so
it i^ " It is the ihroneof the superior,'' answvred the Jesuit lay-brother,
who W&1 in the church, and of wnoiu 1 had ini[uirefl if this were dcfttincsl
for th« «niptiri>r or any other illustrious ju^nton occiLuonally visiting them.
Tho eliurcn is further d«cAnitcd with Mvornl new jucttires, representing
ncaes from the Ufo of a newly •canonized Joauit of the name of lltcronyinus)
one, representing Iilui witli tlie sacnunental chalice in his hand on the sea-
•hare, and obtaining for Uie Ncsf>olitan fishcimeQ a mirnculiMU draught ;

94 nemrtcnoGL.

■aotbcrdgpictncluiii, crowmhHcltcbKikiii^tlwfiancniptioDofVaimiM^
lliMe aod odwr pietwec were liglrtcd. Dot brnde mooMt, rat &om the n^
■ccordia^ to the new faihiao. Wbeo bdco objeeti fure found coroed wiek
ivMt in ma ancient half-ruiti«(l cl(n»t«r, 9r in a pictuix-^k-rv, from » looff
munldi^reil pencil, one finds nodiing aimu Ln it ; but I cannot draj- tlwt it
miide a moist disagreeable impression on me. to Had theni decorating tbe
troll* of a moderu temple, and purporUu)!' to le tlie tireuts of our own day*
1 do oot thmk, lunrevcr, tliat die Jmita hnvr nuule luiy grvu jirograa
of late in Austria. Complaints ara oertainl v brard tliat tlic uoUgb am too
laaeh devolod to them, but ttiat they skouM ever nbtAiii thrar former ]Mai'
lion ia almost inpoaaible. All eiiliulitriied [%r»i>RS, of wIumh tliure nrv un-
doubtedly many m Amtria, l>ave <iecided agniitft them ; tna tb* lotwr
duMB male* msIoui afpmtioa. KcvcrthcJMa thm Jeauita hun began to

g'lB ihair atroog y«t nibtU weta. They are otost nunieroua m mIicu.
0iingary there are none at all : in the Genoan jimniicei there ara tim»
** houAeit,'' onn tn Grati, one in Linx, and otie at Imijnuclc. They havo
■oqtiu«d BMMt infiueocc in the latt(.T dty. Xot along ago the Gynina-
Bum then wm giTcra up to ^leni, and te&cfaen suppb'ed (rotn tiuax body,
•nd anee that tine many eomplaints hive been beam, that it ti no lanBer
tfai ^nlity of the pupilH, but the rank sud credit of tb«r parents wliich
decide 'dicir advancement.

Eadi of the "honaea" has a ffupeiior, a "minister," the Buperior'fl de-
puty and auiatant, leTMal pri««tA (wculan) and some la.j-bratlicrs to ctJ-
tividc the ganlen, attend to nouwhnld aHainit and to br Bcrviccable in many
otlier ways. The mperior of the Linx houm waa absent on a "journey
of business" at the time of my risit. The nioiatw waa in the conjeasionu
obair, wh«re I saw liun witli nia fva.Uir«s coucealed, lutouiug to a kneeling'
ppnitent. 1 went xftvrwiLnLi, aocimipaiiird bv a prieRt. nho ubli^ngly
offured hia Bcrviti?'?, tn sw tbuiiitorinrof Uii-biiiWiiig. We passed throiiglt
Hw Mhuol-roomd attd others appropriate*! to the pupils of tlit: iustitutJou.
Tliey livR two and two tn^'tlier, (>u soaie of tlic rooin.-i t1i«re wen; tlin>e,)
B^^ivonbly t(> tliK principlca of the Jesint*, that no iiUTinber of their onW
shall be left %Hih(iut th*^ cj^mpany and as«iMance of another. Ko brother
of the order ever receives pcrmi»ioii to visit the city alone, he must always
bave another brother. hJa " Soaiis." with him. Accordiiijj to thix re-
eulntinn no Jcmiit can ever be entangle*! in a dilute or ctnifpfrlo of any
luiid without bcinf; ourv of help. Uetice, wherever tlicrc in a Jcauit he la
double-headed and faur>n.nned, iind bvjnnil a duubt this is one of the nio«t

Eolitic laws in their code. Even tlie lay -lirot hers have alio cnnh of them
ia " Soctus." They remind u« of tlie .S[»artaji Icgit^u, mluch was so un-
conqwToblf, priiici]i«lly liecause it confliitixi irhitfly of pairs of fraternal
fiienda linked togetlutr i4>r lift-- niid death. Two men «i> bound to eaeh
OtlHn-, yield a mueh greater amntint of pou-rr than two >e|(iirstc indivi-
duals ; w two cannon-htUifi linked toiCGthcr by a rituii produce a much
more terribh* affect tliau when fired wngly. .\l preswit there are thirty
Jesuits in the Litis hoitiii'-. niiii-of whom are pruistt, nine hu'-brethMn, and
tlic rest noviffS. They are nearly all f 'erinanii.

"Weare recruited principally from (iiTiiian Bohemia," wiiil my sttend-
snt priest, as we stcppi^d out on the bniud nnd beautiful platform of the
tower, to enjoy the ntaenilieent prospect; "tlicuco come the grwiter
tiumler of our pupllx. We have n.'aflon to fMolce so far. but it ix mrt to
be uoinporDd wiui our progreas in Belgium. There u not leci than ei^ity-

JESUIT SCHOOL. "■■■ 96

yoong, Slid Mv«Ri] elderly men, vntered oar nriar in the mvne of
laeCyMT. We hav« few or no SUvoaians m ourboiue. In Lituwebave
lUBile no great progrew, luUnerlo ; itideed vre possesj notliin^ hetc hat diis
Ikome provMionally. Tlit Flnriaiifi )iav<^ still Uie Gyninuium. Ws ara
th«tvfnr« Iwtv only provinooiilly, kod ad inlerini, luul educate our pUpiU
aci inCcriiH," (is there no rog^iery concralod bcliind this ad interim ? tbougliC
I,) "in the hajw that in time a wider sphere of iiiHuenoe mil tw! opotiMl to
us. We employ onnt\vt*ad interim -with the soicncci, yet wc tliiiik that if
ire form useful Hubjccts, they must in time be tniido use of, Tlic hoiacs of our
order in Austria do nut fomi as jet an or^tiised and indiriduai province,
but we hope it will loon taie that form. In Vieons we ha^-e not yet re-
cdvod pvnaisnon to eittablith oumclvM ; tliu csudv may bv tJic old pivjudicca
a^nit ua, and a lurking' rL-ninnnt of a bi^la-f in tho otaordera sttrimted to
fMir order : bat wd hope that in the poiistontly increanii^ enUgfatannMOt of
the tiiiii?!, thvite prejudices will die avniy. I hare read ait the bookl
which liavc liovti wriiUti for otid agninrt CliD Jesuits ; for (lu; oidi.'r was
•Iwmys an ol^eicl of great int«r»it to nw ; and arnee 1 haw ravaelf be-
lenf^ to it, I have bo^n aoaaxed at the unfounded aooa»atioitf aod
Utter penecutiona tn which it baa Iteeo exposed. God be pnwad, wc ham
£il]«u on better tsin««, ai>d |)COpk bmv« already U>giin to acrkiiowlod^
tii«ir earlier tnjuttiM. When oor ordor wa* dino)v«d, at the c1o»e of the
Jut ceatwy, toe canoniaatioD of not lees tliAD eighty diattnguiabed JastutS
dies in proffreM was interrupted, tn later timea, feveo of theae canaaa
kaMbMBtdcen ap again, and brou^rht to ui end. By the two hat popot
(tho pfenmt and ua pndaoMtor), kvcq Jcaotta have been easonnM. «r
pronounced blcswd. Amon^ these wu the criebrktcd Cnnisins, wbow
•erriecs in Germany have been so ^eot. At thi» niomeat another is
about to b« proDOUBCod Ueaacd, who mifrered martyrdoTn on hit miaiioa
to Poland, lie was ilain tbcre bv the barbariana in thr middle of tho
eighteenth centor^-. The causo lias bc>en loi^ in liaiid ; but as snc^
mntttfrs aro procoeScd in with great <.-ircniinapKtion, their progrMi is nece*-
saitly slow. Tttu dorumtrnta proving' hi» purity of lifv, itnd his ble»M^
and wtirt}iy vnA, an- all fbrtheoniing ; but eitact aiid outhefitic iut«Iligenoe
of the death of his ' Socius,' who neournpantvd bira on hie mtsaiao and
a a Se r ed with him, are yet woatiag \ ana these, aconrdiar to our laws,
ace absolntely necMuny to ibe canonixntion «f a JrKiiit. vir kopr, how
ever, thnt thn*v ^^ipplomontJirY points uiil gnpedily be clowd iiji, when tlM
Holy F»th«r mav ftiUoir the uupulae of htj bvart, and bestow tiw civwn of
tDanyrdom upon diia exoelleat maa."

iUy JMuit friinid had paronomiMd llw> wonl Aiipe, at lenat four nr fii-o
&BM^ whence 1 nhmild ooodudo that die Jasatits of our dftvn nro ror v full
of tins af^ccahic fccJin^. Often, however, as the Jeauit n[>pcared, t h^id
Dofiiult to find with my eonmanion ; but as I lotilced do the turf-roverp^l,
bomb-proof, and cannon -brittiiiif^ towMV of Line, and eomparwl tbcm with
the tnuliofi;, docoratod building, in holidaY attiro, of which the Jcsuita havo
taken pasKuian. I thouglit also bow (|uickly Micb a smootb, fiieadlr. and
courteous man of p«ace mif^t be iT>etaiBonphaaed into a rude, nostile
aataconirt in times itf strife and tmuble, and how eortainlv we two friendly
JBlCBneuton would then find oiirielves npposnl to earh other.

From our loAy stitiid. we commanded an exiennvci view over the Aoatcia
>D rich in Itnjmr for the Jvmibf. The cify of Liuc, witli il4 hlaek roofs, lay
at our fcvt ; and in tho diitaoce, oa the maguiticetit [daina of Lower

PKOrrifCiAL Mt'SfiCsi.

Aiutri*, gleuned tiie doUter of St. Florisu. The tubh DumlM flowed '
ia iti winding' coane, through thb bcuitiful Uad to Vienoa, stteoded, no"
doiibt, hy mnuy n liMifptifr li^ TnMn th« JwuiU, waft«d towBnb the ilatftly
**• lifwidcns." Tow»rJii Uto Muth, th*]>latni iwvllod, bydt yM , into hilui
and etniiiences, whkli \»y Uk« shadows in the roregnmnd, Mcked by the
•harply-<l«fin«d imd majeatiG Alpuis cbiin of RhtstiE lad Noricum.

PBOVT.VCIAL MUSEUM.

AnOBgftlwnMll^nntintial nittHCiinio and pnllecttcng of pravinRia) rarities
nlueh have vuea witljia the lut ten ywut in all parts of the AuitriMO.
monarchy, in Ptvgue, PntK. Gratx, Lairboch, 8u:., one hiu tokvn mt)t in
Lins, whow ohj«ct It if tocoUect and ]jrmcrv« in a RvpnrAtA inuseuni all
that can haT« roGmnt* to the liutory mid tintitrtLl productions of Aitstria.
Fonntfiy, all such thin^ found in any of the provioces of the wonorchj
waf0 BHUt without exception to Vienna. The province* comidprvd them-
Bslvta ai the Liw'ful ^K^aaeaon of inch cunositii», and looktd upon thair
romoTsl as littlo better tliut robbery. No doubt jealousy of the all-gra«^
ioj^ capital caused th« nejflcct of much that might have been collected. In
fii<>t, objecU of ttiis kind can only bo properly ertimatcd in thn place of
tlicir DJLtivity. Many have proviuci&l value oud ngnificaoco aloiio, and
are qtutv worthtei.i and iinriotod lu an cxt4:ni!«t> general tnuaeuin. Few
dUEens embraci} t)io wholo KtJitu tti their patriotic sympathies ; the Jateiab
of the gr«at«r part ia limiled to tho narrow circle of their hom«s.

Hio Utut inuseuni has now nix rooma filled with anlitiuitioi, coin*, p^
trif&etions. fossiU, stiifFird animalit, niinnols, booki, and industrial prodno-
tioud, and in the treatise published «Tery year & light has been thrown oa
many a dark comtu- of Austrian history, which would probably not liave
be»n done if the burt-au for the advancement of tuch purpoaM had remuined
at Vienna.

None of the mitiquitics I saw hero intctcsKd me mora than the shield oC ,
a lloman warrior, and a Roman brick. The shield wai from the cele> ^^H
bi'aled shield maimfuctory which the l^nians hod at thi! month of the Ktia^ ^^H
and from which tlie plater part of the legends on tb« I>anuhc were sup-
jJied with arni*. 'I'ho Aiulriaiis have at jircwnt for the supply of their
Danube :uiny, a similar manu£utory in tJie city of Steyer, not far from tho
£n4, u'hvre pikrt, guii«, end p*tols are the weapons now made in^ttcod of

3:ifan and aluclds. Tho bnck attracted my Attention fmm the trecca of
ust and of straw, and the mark of tlie workmunN Jitigers, which were still
visible on iti surfaee. An act^idental puff of wind probably scattered tlia
broken straw upon the brick while it was yot soft, the wurkmau knvadod it
in, and thus the memorial of the nnheedi'd motion of a careless luind lias
reniatned undostroyed for centurie*. In tho invisible physical laboratory of
the human work! trifl« are often perpetuated from anulo^us cuunea.

The Romans had their principal stAtinn lui the DunnW, at l.inE(Ijea-
tiinn) : and in fact it is a ])oiicion that will cmjtinue to be occupied so long
a* tho land ia inhabited. Tlu> naniiiw hrm iMues from a uiuti>w mouQ-
tain-piws, into a rich and beautiful plain, in which roadt hmntih ofl" in every
directiou, and traverse the bmai! valley of the Traini, joining that of the
Danube, in tho nclj^hbourhnod of ^ins. The diTision even of the country
into tbo provinco aboTc> ond that below tho Essr u old and of Roman

THE UOMASTEKT OF AT. PLORTAN. 97

_in. The whole Inro! was called Noricum ripenBe; aU that lay below the
£iu, the Itomnng o&llcd the tower towns nad castles, and those tbovt, the
towns and castles of Noricum ripense.

THE MONA8TEET OF 8T. FLOKIAIf.

One morning, in oorapwiy with a new &cquaint»nee, I stepped into ft
ateilwagcn bouuil for liHielshcr^, a aniall morlici-toiv-n at the niontK of tha
Ens, A thick morning rapour covered tlie whole valley. Mj' companion
had jiirtJy cnl(MiJat(^ the tn«veraciit of the fojfay portielea, and said to me
after a timv, " Vt'v thmQ have a most beautiful any ;" aud la fact, u wo ap-
proached the more elevated ncighboui Iiood of lE4iebberK> ^f: left ^^e fog
behind us, and had as he had prophesied, the finest weattier we could have
diftred.

These public cturiages {tlfllwayen) have been introduced in Lins within
the last ten year^ and now mil in evciy direction fraro tltat eitj. Ten
reara s^, if a person wished to go firom LJnz to Steyer, and waa at all in
Dastei he nniat have paid five flontis, a»d given abundance of good worda
beddes. Now he can ga for about forty pence, and the i-^icl« maket th«
journey twice a dny.

My object was to visit the renowned convent of St. Florinn. and alto
tome of Its peasants, so «el] known for their opulence, I left Eht'Isberg',
tberefbre, on foot, and, Kti-ikiiig into n by-roiid, proceeded deeper iulo the
eouDtry. A little coHiitrj-man who bml bcu^t n nook of Iniiil from the
lords spiritual, and )ud thrrefore ^otnc business to settle with tliciii, went
with me. and we soon came in sight of the stately abbey which stiuiils on
ft hill. The fields and niendows, iho orchards, and alt around announced
a system of careful ctilttvatioji. \ rroreboiiso, an ii|iottiecnry'» shop, s
tavein, and an hospital, all attacli«l io the abbey, lay at the foot of the
hill. 1 praised the ananf^ement of all these to my peasant companion.
" Ah,** said he, " yes, yes, the holy fathers, they are clever fellows, they
look after tlielr aftain, and keep thing* under their own eye." In tm
villa go stood two waggons with four h<»r»e<^ each laden with six-ttnd -twenty
calves. TIic poor creatures lay wilh their legrs bound, and their bead*
han^ng down in a most tninfiil pominn. Some Iiad woiitulcd tlietnselves
against theiron-nnrkof t.1ie hi^i wheck, by theconKlnntcimiiili^ivetwiteh-
in^of the moiitli. I :itip])AKe there wa» no society in llie ablw-y for the
provcnlion of cruelty to animals. I looked from tlie poor calves to tlie
picture of the Madonna, which hung from ihc comer of tlie nhbey tavern,
and read beneath these words : " BIciwd is thtt boly and imniaeulate coD-
ocptioo of the Virpn Mary."

I had hcird much befon-liand of the grandour of the Austrian al>bey%
standing like a magnificent chain of palaec:i, mostly <vn tho right side of
the Danube as (ar as Vienna ; but I mitrt confua that when I trod tbe
interior courtyards and chambers of St. Florian's cloistered palace, my es-
peetatiuns wen far exceeded by the reality. The principal part is built in
a most superb style, from a phui of the time of Charin tlio Sixth, and u
almott finisbed. To be nimott ^niiknl has been the destiny of almost all
tlie stntety im-ctioiis of that raler, who died ten years too soon, as (he teal
for building in the Gothic slyle did by u buudred. However^ in St.
Florian's abbey, it is hut little that is wanting.

tns it<niAiirmr or at. flohun.

PW nuMurclw in E»ro]Mi can boMt of be-iiif^ to gtvaily Ioi]|n4i wbotber
in re&rence to the form or material of tJidr dwelliof^, u tlie " ngulsr
Aug;iistiDe cb&ptei of St. Flomn in L'pper Austria." On either cida of
th« lafty (mtrutoiK, brood mnrblo steps \»id to lh« principle floor, luiil oor-
ridoi-t above a Imiulrt-ii fci-t m bri-ocllli niii rtmntj the various win^fa of Lbe
buildings tb.tt surraund tlialbur qiudranj^ar innn oorarb. Ttie cnmdoRt,
I m* well u itio outer pawam, and the floor of the great b^U, orn ele^rAtiUy
pared n'tth LlaiJt uutl white taarUit, and orn-jrwtierv tJic d<:auliiioH ik so
perfect, tiiat every atooi of duit iniiit bi' rpiiiorMUwalj pimued nitb brush
«tul broom. As I jwoed thMo oorridora, tlio wuter fjilaohing in the DiidsC
«f Uw flodrtl^ the rays of the euu pkytug through the couoUum arched
ntmge*, a/Htag rich lighU ami «)uide« u[)oti th« politlu-d nmrbU- bvutiath,
I thought if tlia |))aaiufa of & atmigrr in wiuidcriii|r lu-rv was ku gT«at,
what miut ho that of tha owner*, tb* fathor* of St. FUrian ? la llw imt-
lidors are the — little doors they sboiili] be, but tliey arc lofty mrtals, kad-
iiif; to (be mootu' «elU, to iJie a[jartii)eiit« of the pi«lat«, to th* vh^mtot's
hull, tlio Ubraiy, th» ctirdinal'i choraWn, niul ot)u.T«.

I iratf flaalty gomewltat entbarraaaed wluch door to attack iirat, for I wm
efiaid at distniiaiig ioaie peraonage of unportaii€e turn wliillier I would.
Atlaat, wipini; the dmt con-fully fma my feet. 1 ehoitea cttO at raiuloin,
and found, in the person of tlic faUicr niid |>r»ftf!><>r {lutz, to celebrated
tlitouRlHiut Austrin, for hi* leaminff and liictoricid works, the vmr boat
piide to lead me tliroi^h thi« labyrinth that my good nagel ooula hav*
ud meto.

The f^TvtA conrentx nad aUicys id Austria ham been, at all timet, the
nuivos aod ohctrialiera of i>iL-ieiu« and of art t in evny oue is to bo fuuml a
tmiutum of natarol hietory, a aoblo library', and, f^ocrally, a picturc-gal-
kry i and each boaati it* ccJubnitMl munoi, vitlicr uf tliOM whu luive loiij^
d<-|iart4il from tlini worM, and liv« only in tlie aflW'liuii and r«speot of
|Mctttnty. or of tlinev i^tiJl living, and actively en^gc^d iu tlie snrioe of their
OTdtb Of ih/t latter claw ia the ruvcreud I'atliiT Kurz, a kiud aiid vcua-
laUe oM maa of arventytvo, who now advimi'^d (o Ritwt tliv intniiiva
atrui;^r. lie wa« for a loug titnc profcacor of lii^itory in the GymuiiiaaK
of LioK, and has whtlcn tomv learned work* ou Auntriaa luetorVf At pf
aLUI, UiriM: down by ymn and feeble health, he hrts retired to Ilia mU
wlii-n! Le buiMM hiiiiM-lf with lighter literary labours, and th« aifmra of tba
«i>t]Teiit. J found witli him a couplaof peajuiQt«, n-bo had cotu« torequett
lit» iidvive reiiH-ctiti^ u kwmiit, aud a yumimal-gitl aekiag him ibr aome
nii'tUdoe for iH-iiiick mother.

I ktiitw not wlieilier we North German protestants entrrtain rery jost
notions r««pectirf^ the iudu<;iM-Ui tbc split'rv of operation, or the busiuos!
and manner of life nf tht- nir>nk» of the ^-n-nt Austrian Augit$tine nudBa*
ontietino ooaveota ; nor whptlier our opinion of tbom may nut bo too tin-
liivourablc ; and I fltall therefore ]>«>rmil m}'iwJf a l«w rcuiorlu ou tiju Gub-
jecU It wonld be highly uujuA tu coii»idrr tuch establishments, nmply at
Hi* rttreata of laay monkK, nlioie nolo eniploj-monts are {iraying atid tatiog.
Od tba «ontiaiy, tba mouifold relatioiu in whk-h suvh a vmwtti ttanda to
Hie ejitcnud world, and tlwgri'ttt spln'rvof activity couitcctiiig it, with
Seaily every phstv of Itfi), hn-v* njivned the »iit for tlu! c-areii, tlie husiineat^
sud chr> voxatiotw of humauity, iitid paved for them an ea<y entrance to the
edit of these iDonk» ; tlieae, couMxiacntly, aru biiAy ines a{ tlic world, n-
thcr than fea»liiig and [>rayi iig aochoritw ; and if th«y are worried aonia-

THS MOKASTEBY OF BT. TI^RIXV.

wliot ntore at their case ttiMii otlier |ienpli>, they bare tn l>cn<l like oiher
ClirUliuia under tho i>atniiiou bunWn. It is only ti xmoU niioarity of tlie
member* »f iu«)i o hotue thM nic cntnmflnly rcndiMit nitliJii \u nalb.
In Su Ploriau only tweDty-one i>ut of ua ninety-tno latbcrs wr.re <lM'eU«n
there at the time of tay viuL The reet wer« almost coiutantly aWnt on
^fleront oinjiInyineDU and niiuiani, aomc u parish priests in tnnir rc«po^
tivv |iwiabw, kmbo we iiutruoton iu Kbool*, prolman at tliv GyniDasia, or
aa stewards and OTca«een of iIm lands of the abbey, wliivli must all bo ad-
miniatered and ororlooked.

Ai t«acben And prorvMun, Uwy must subnuL to CKatamaliuni like other
peoplt, aod as agii«ultanst< thc-y uro nut rc$|iuiiiibltf as nthiTs in limtlar
•ntMaymenU. Those who roiiiain in llio convent are vithfr the old and
fiwote, or those vrbo h&ve tli«ir vmploymcnts in the nbb<!y it»lf. 0ns U
master of tlie Kousehnld, and liaA lite kitulieu, the stAbie, &c., iiimIut lus
diiectioD, another is inastur uf the forest, a ihlrij, lilirarioti 9uul director of
tlu) ninseum. Some oftliv convents whtdi iiiMRtis nWenratorifH, have also
tlieir own astioiioinpnt, «ho, as professoFs of astn/uoiuv, tea^h the saeiiue
in tti« convont. Tlie observatory «f Kremsuiia^tcr lias long been celtt"
bratiid, and almoat overv ]>unoii bora con tell tihic^b facluir in now at the
tumd of it. Even tlie old and feeble liod nmcti in tbt-tr <^cUe to interest
tlieni in the sayinga and doin^^ of the world witliout. Tfiey are tlio fcienils
anil palroii* of many far mid near, who visit tlitni t'roqucntly to ai^lc CLtiuuel
fttid iu«iRUnc>c. Tlu- iirolatcM, — to arc styl«d the hoadj of tho arfAtcon-
vtnts, — tJic prelates, it not prinwa hv birth, liri! likv ptiaceSj aod hunt the
iistial allouuent of business and inmiencv, cam and crosses, tliat (oil to
the shara of princos. They liave their bauquet-halls like then), but aUo
tlioir halls of audiencu aud rooms for bueutess, vrhenoo tliey overhiok and
diivcC tlie affairs of ilie convent They an; idm fre<iiieiuly members of tti«
praviodal stiUea, and beuce^ altliougfi monks, arc eittaiigKiit in somo mea-
sure iu the (iontut of poliUod. The whole range of great abbej-s iu the
valhry of the Danube may bv looked upon as amniis: Cha most distiiiguishod
pillant of tlie Austrian stale edifioo ; ami not ouly its su|ijiartinjf pillars,
but also llie foundation and comer-stones of tiist i:dific«. These rolipoDS
fuunilations, founded iu tlie eoriieslagos of the AiL<tj-iau eaveraicnty, were
the verv strongait oleuuNkla in the fnnnalion of the future arcluTuchy. In
tie middle ages, tbe abbots of thnteenuvonts ofien fiimiihed thu min^tcon*
auksable rnnlorcenaants to the Auftcian armies, and at a Utoi period, one
1^ tbam contributed aa large a cum as eighty or n hmidrcd ihouMand florins
U) thtt acpsoQU of a war. At the conuiicnceiueut of the reign of Marin
Tbvrcsa, she could obtun from tlie bank of Genoa the dirou niiltiens aba
nM^uircd, only on conditien (hat the Au«triau alibi-ys would be her eooiri^.

()n almoiit every liouit!' wall in Austria a !»t. Florian is painted, empty-
inp: a pail of water over a burning hom«, as its protecting saint ; pious
verecH ar« soinetiiiies inscribed hontwthi noomnwndiug thi: bouse to his
ffuardiatuhjp, aud sonietimas rersea aojr tJiing but pious, as tliu fol-
lowing :

•• House and home trot I to Fkin&ii'* nuae;
If he protect It mi. Iiis be tlie •ttanu."

Butofbue^tlMBignsaiul lokenjoftlio Vicnim and TriiMo Fire Amoranee
Companies faaiv luade Uieir appeannco by the side of St. Florian, whiMe
credit a^ieais to sink as thmn lisM. St. Florian was a heathen, aud a

TtoRi&ti MnUirion in th« time of Olini. Here in the cnnip t>v thi> Hiiiiiibe,
Mb luiild, bent on serious msttciSt and wiUidnLmi from tlio frirolitn-a of
Rome, mav Iuitc been duly proparvd for ibfl 8p<m1 of th« Cbrutimi ndi|pnn;
but hoie it fell, and Iioh it RermiimUHl, the legend eajrs noL Gnongh,
FIoriAi) became ■ imlota Ciiniliaa, confemed aad preaclied the aovr doc-
trine, and was in conMixjuciice i-ondemned u » rebiOIiou* and fntntic
innoTntof, by his gcnenJ, Arjtiilius, umI bMttni to (Ipiitb with club* on the
sliures of ti)).' l^nubv, IIU body vras thmwn into tlie water, wlierc it ro-
innitLuit till tlu; iirini'iiss Valenn, ilie daughter of die emperar Diocleniuit
trithdixiw fnini iJk* cmbnives of the river i)yniph« L)ii- renimni of n saint
tuuiJwB aa'i honnurvtl nji fariiJi tlit^T^irki^ frontier, and in tlic yr>ar 304,btiri«il
tiif-m ill tlie place where uovf the abbey et&iids. Ilig lon^ ncf)uaintaitcc
with the wati?r nymphs of ihe Danube, it may be, which hns rendered him
io peculiarly fit for a fire «iftnffuiah«r.

" Tou tnay bdievc wlidt you dIciud of this story" Mud my |^de to m^
"but you will find it not only black and white in our old chronicle*, but
also in bgij*ht cotours in our picture -f^ollcry, where we liavo llic whole
hidlor)' rcunyjenlcd in a »eriw of twenty paintingu."

In thf libriirj- uf tlic convent thiTC arc fiirty thou«»wiI Toiumea, The
liall is ljrgT> and beautiful, a )iall wortliy of tlio muses, as it idwnv» the cnss
in ihfl Austrian convent-* of the first rank. Except Gottingen, I know no
Gfrniiui umven>ity wbicli luu 90 npleniliil an &jiartui«tit for tJiis purpose oa
St. Fiorian's. Witli M!«pcct to Uu- cullwtion itM-lf, it U nalurally some-
what dirterent. The chief port, of course, is comnosctd of tlutolney. The
fatlitra arv in full forte, eoinuoftheniiii tJic»pleu(UdParaedltioiii. Otbcr
braiiclici' of UiuiwIedgK havw not, howe»-er, been neglected. Tbc censor-
whip of the pn»6 ofiocts thin convent but little. For them there b no for-
bidden fiuit, and the couvcuti aro exactly the 6ttect af>-lum* I'or wntiiin
pcr»cciited by tlie censor ; works, wliich in any other librarj-, nr in a book-
seller's shop, would be seixed by the poUee. are freijueudy to be tixiiul in
cloislora wlien; fuch unquiet productions are held to bo in the quietest place.
The tnonkt know tiow to arr>iugt! thvjtc niattcri, only tnkiti^ tlie precautiou
aonietiuieti of placing' sticli writing! nn tlir MX'Oud row, lictiiriil otliem, or on
the topmiwt Kiwlvos. Tlw influwiee of thi>80 fino colleeti'uis eiinnot be
great, u they are the private property of the conveul«, and the books are
never lent out. Nevertheless, tney are iiilerfslinjr with a view to tJio
future ! it 13 well to know where iucli liUTiiry niiiteriali! an> to be looked
for; dauht!c!is, thfl day will come when another Joseph will throw those
noble hails open to tho public, anil declare their contents the property of
the state. On this account I was glad to find everywhere a goodly as*
■cmhiage of our German liistoriaiiB, down to I.udcii, Meniwl, and Pfister.
The Moiiuinenta Gcrnnuiorum arc alvu not wanting. An hiatorical-geognt-
phical work on Lower Amtria, in tliirty volunies, put me iu a tnrnUc
fright, if this work, like Meidinger's Grnminar, sliould arrive at a twcn*
tietli i-djtioii, one mlgbt cover a good portion oflliothrvc hundred (German)
squiire mllca of Lower Austria with tlie paper. If wc wero to uae aJI the
waste paper of this kind in Gvrinany wc might cover the wholo surface of
tho globe, and perhaps paper up the sun be^idcif.

The Floritu) conveutown.s not lesi Itian seven hunJrci) and dghty-scren
house* and fanns, or, us tliov expres* it here, so many " nunilMjin," and yet
it is only a " three-quarters eloidtcr. The greater numbftr of the convents
are only " half " or " quortei-," Kiemsniinster U one of ihe few " uiitirt

TBB MOSASTEBT OF 8T. P1.0RIAK.

di^Un." I n«ver oouM Iwun from what measure these cxpnwiAn* of
li&lf &Dd whole, ttfc, whicli lur in oonstant uae amcngttir pcoplr. arc tnkcn,
norcouhl the fathuni ihfiinn'Uwt jjivp mi? Kiiv infonnstioii. Perhaps it
nay bo a ino"l« nf (^iwih, r('[n(iii)iii»j fmni the tiinw when the conv(>nta wen
ntMfior militarr contributiuuD j FloniLii must then havii [ntiil Rfty Uiousoncl
florins, when Kremiiiiiiiairr |iiiiii ctirhcy thntuuuid. In thii*u Utnes. aa
puehduVc of Austria NniiicltiiioM rc«iidMl u A ^n(«t at St. Floriui's, with
'four hundred nnd fifty hort<cm«t] and hones; thp present ?iit[>erora come
much more mndcatl^ attended. The coHvent ia in constant rratlimuM for
such visitj. Fler«, and in all nther Austriui convents, them ih n fuitc <if
roonu ealled '* the imperial a|)artincnts." Th<^ uumh^r of illiMtnotis
guMts tliat linvc riutcd the Augustiuo lordi spirituo], from the emperor
; Aiuuipb the child, doim«-ard<t, is countleu— amon^ them khs Piinne
Eugene, tlie liif^^li-lieaneil eon^u^ror of tho Tnrl<d. Ho slept here, during
bis stay, ou a aplcndid IviUtvad, iit csch ol" whose four comers, a Turltisli
tfriMlier was chained iii efFi^y. i*i«;tiin-« of the li.-xttles nf Zcntn. Mohftcs,
taud fietgiade, adorned t!ie walls, and Qvery wax hg^ht in tlie autivhamber,
L>Wu home by a ligure of n Moor, earved in woixl. All these are pre-
^Berred as nieiTioriali to the present da;'. Pope Piitf) VI., on his memo-
rable jiKiniey to Vienna, waji miteiUuno! at St. Florijui's Ahhey, and from
tlu! balcony of his ehaniber, bestowed hi» hlvteing on not left than thirty
thousand [leoplc. I

Eniperoni, priiicHi, and pop«)i, are not the coly visiters: ttavellmg ■
StudeiiiK usnully halt here in tlm vnoations ; aome may alunyH be found in
Uw rnonw below, oppiopriaied to their >crTice. In one of tbem I found
ttn nugtnatical-lookiiig piece of fiimilure, whose u»c I was at a Ions to di-
rvine. My conipruiion directed my attention loan inscription on the front
''irhJcli Jixpluycd tite fvllomn^ .spirituiil reference to a »to*e : "Hoc in
tmnido bicms nrido, irgtati» osfA consutiiit."

In almoit all the conventual churches I found multitudes of reilhreosta
as re^iiinr inhabitantji. In the splendid church of St. Florian, their plea-
sant chirpiu;;^ were the only praises to timi I heard ihiriiii^ my visit. Tlic
^diurdi senitor told me tlial, in the hTondinif sea*oii, llietr nuiiibera were
• proat, that the preacher's x-oice was often overpowered by tlteir foitg.
' spaiTOWii keep to the outside of the roof; swallows come eomctiiDM
ribr yenra together, and tlien dtwpjMjar again.

Carlo Carlone was the ar<.'htl«-t of ihin dnireh. Tiiia man'* ear must
have been yrvH opened to tlio harmonies that lie in number.', and ^And
pnmortinna, for ttw licighty breadth, and len^h of the church, the place
ftnd prr>p(nliotifl of the windows, tho utalls, corridors, and choir, llie arches
snd pillars, form 3k whole ao exquiritely tiymmetrical, that the musical im-
BTession. rpivived on entering- the place, is irrcsiatihlo. 'Hie piTiiiei|«d Unci
r« lliR building tun covvml with the most anlid, rich, and tasteful stuccoM.
iSlound all the galletiM, cemiees, and eeiltnf^, hundreds of angels ara
Rthed and grouiwd. Curtnins, executed in tlic most masterly niftiitier
ni plaster, hang la rich profusion over every door and jmnsage ; and llie
most beautiful (rarlaodt, wrcatlH of flowers, and arahniiues wind and
[droop in lavish abundance, and in the mfvt graceful inrmt thvviughout.
"must confess that f leaml. for the first time, here to know wliat stturco
and what niif>ht be made of it.
The chureh hu thiee orfjans ; Uie largest is in the baekgrntrnd, oppo*
me the high altar, and two smaller ones ate in tlio ohtnr. The larg«st.

TISir TO THE noCfiB OP AW AU8TIHAM rEASAKT.

the irmiitrmrwlc of wi Anrtiiui of Uw name of CtirittituutD, bu o230

Sii])«8, sud the strongvvt of ihfwv aut in t}i« (in«)t Kn^Iiih tin, is thirty-two
ei't hi^ four feet and k h«lF In cin!»iufor«tkr«, anil wraglM five hunditMl-
wftielit. Tb« *' orjtiaD-basket," •^h'nh funporM t)w »«ttt of Uw »r)puiUt
and thn liugen, duplap the most bcnutitul and inimitable irorkinuwhln
in cHrvml wood. It fau the ligiiro of a giant baiket. or balcony, fnimM
of th« t]iick»«t bu<h of ■mithiM-lcavM. IMow, tbft woodvetk of t]ua
hiili-<)iij is iiitcmiin^Icd nith tliftl of tlio itallfl and pfsycr-dnk*. 'llw
pillitn* of fhitw leata Ki\d their vouopr. conilft paitly of h\»ek frvltml
wcoAk, bo J partly of Kpccklfd lMH>flt-wood, of wbich ibo maMiTfi blocks are
in tlKtnsfhw iitriofitice. The nholc raufjic of fiUlU fot tlie chapter ex-
liLbit tlic tiiiCTit ATchttrrttinil drawing, and tite gmleit mliditv of COD-
!itru«ti'>n, Ktid yet l)ie miiiutis am ncputed with a tientnoH ana riofpuioa
«uch lie aro usuaJly bf^luwed only uu box«a destined for the ivcoptiott of
ladiva' ji-wfi« or gentlmipn'B mull'. Oii a ciooer t!\aiiiinatioui vwry litUe
knot aiid adgo » found lo he moat BrlisticnJIy aiid laborlvudy |mt tO"
gether, and «x'|nisiteiy polished.

In nue word. prcMriit ami.i and ahow honour due to the Austrian monkr,
all ye who fto nftvii coiiU-inn, wilhout ev«^n knowing them. 1 must ctm-
ftat, that I docired nothing nn•^T«^ than that Knthur Kun and the olh«r
gpiitUnien oii^ht accept mv IJii'eivcll |>resgu[« of lh« bund an it wai mewi^
ai a. tuktii of tli« most tiiiocn- gXHodnill and entc-em.

VISIT TO THE HOUSE OF AK AUSTRIAN PEASANT.

T\k pca.nint3 of Upper and lyowcr Austria havr, witli tlie esceptioB 6f
fcnav of the pea^anla tif Loinhardy, cerCitiniy irorht'd a hij^lier degree of
wealth aud li-eodon] Oian any other jieiisantti in llio Auitiinn empira.
Thowf "^f Ctdivio, Bohemiti, and IIui((j«ry, are, on the nliole, »lil! Mifa ;
tlic iiiliabiTEutt of lUyrin and the Tyrol Li poor. There are /wrrto, indeed^
of all these proiinecs where tin* land is hotter cultivnted, and the pea»anta
more free and opiiU'iit. Hnima, in Moravia, ii celebrnird f-w this, soil
Zip, iu Huiii^ary i 8%xonlin)d, in Trnjuylvanin ; Ep^vrthnJ, in iJohemiii |
and mtuiy rich .-\1pine vaUey*, are abo cemarltahle eiceptioiis. NMlfanr
oa^ht wt^ to pily nor de^j-ise the peasants of other parts of the monarchy
M lUere sla-re^, without duly estiwattuj; iiiaiiy alltviatiiig cinruU'
fltanc«9. To uke ihetu ail in all, liowrver, it is nut le^ cerlatn that the
pcuauls of the Damibe, in rHonirKw to mental ruhirntinn. eolidliy of
ehancter, firmno« of position, atid a rerogiiition of their rights a* men,
■urpasa the iiiajotity of their fellow -gidiject^ no far as thi;y do in agricul*
turkl knowledge and o[tuleitre. Aimxic; thi* riehmt and liest known uv
thn«n in thft neighbourhood of Si. Florian'B abbey. S<ini« of thftm, in-
deed, are so diftinptiihvU, as to liaro hud the honour, ntore tlian onee, of
receiving their emijcror, and one of chcte is the mnch-talked-of '■ Meier
in der rann." Aceonipaiiiod by a goide fivMn the abbey, 1 made my
iray. by a narrow footpath, tlirough beautifui woods, <>tn hutiriant
Biradows. and throii^rli wfll-nillirated fields and orchards to the fiirma
of this neaitliy peasant.

The Ktoriiiii and Austrian ri«aaanti in general, altliough moF« tbow
above than below the Rns live more fWquenlly in Mtditary liinn-
hooMi in tlie niidsC of tlwir lauds, than in a vilb^M. Tfiu pe«*»iits hat*

TTSrr TO TITE TtOTTBE OF AS At?i»rttTA!r TEASJUTT. 103

all a dmibU name ; m the Bnt pla««, ft &nil/ ohtat vliieh i« iiibnitM
by tliL-ir childn-ii, and »-c«ndiv. one a> powosaor of tho (ftrm, which
pMiM to Uuiir sooosMon only. Tbeas ofltdal raiOM ve do doobt ei<
tramfily old, u old pertuipa m the forma th«niMhrH. " Lc)in«r, in
Folitviilmcli." *' Meier im I«tch UtucJi." " Zehntcr, iwar (iomnwirinjf.'*
*'M.ieriii<lerT«nii." "TheSchildliubm." " TV Diwli-lhuW." and the
entire nnme of «ni?h a pPMsnt soundi quite lonj^ and aUtely ; for pmniplo,
" Jvlin Pbds, Meier iu d«f Tiitui," " Jvicjdi Fimbcrgor, tbe SchiJdhiiW."
Id ordtnu^ life th« dem^iiaiion fmin tlic liiiid \» niuoh mora aaual tbiui
the fiunily luiiio. It u tiiorv asxui to sov " ttiu SefaiUliubar «« hvro
t«-d«v" tnan " JoBcjih Fiml»erger ww bere." Tlie woiiwo ne gsnendly
callaa by ttio fainilr n&mc, but in a nisnner diflerin^ from ours. A feiiu-
nme t«rmiiiauon U stbicbod, m Marin Fimberf^n'n, tlie Mtwerifl, in-
ttend of Fmii Fimbcrjfw, Fran Mowr, a« iw »hould *fiy. " Bfficr in liar
Taim. fth, bo lias ft house like a caatic," stud crery one to me, and ia
&rt tbe majority of tJieiie cjeat fannboiuca aro built like nutlei with
(tmr wings fonninj^ a qicndninifle. The foot-paarangvr enters the dwelliDjDp-
boow in oaie win;; by & narrow doorway, and th« load«d wng^ODJ enter at
anoiher thnmfirb ,i wider gate, and drive into the inner court. Tbo staiA'u^t
earuheds, j^iiarip?. Iwntii, ttc, are in the otlier trin^ The biuldiw
ba« two st'>ries anil liiu a rtatcly exterior. Tbi; boiuo i$ weU fumifbed
with pious snitencrs orcr tlic doom, both witliin and nitlinnt, nnd all the
hooxinald otemils down to the pl&tes, are gamisbod witli n!rM)<( and pauagvi
from the Bible. At tbe liouM of ** Mgi«r in der Tann," 1 feraid a flnur-
Mck, ipeakin^' in tliu flrsb pcnon, and vrliere «« loaa poetit-'al North
Gemiaiu wtmld b;ivi> ulaoed ninpl^ a ttainn, or have contented ouracUes
with the name, Friti Meier, tJio flour-sack nsid it :

"Be it Isnoirii tncn-rv nmn
1 bdmic to Muter ia tbe Tmu.'

Tiu) prinoipal obamber in tlie hoiiaa ii ealled " MeWii room." Il li
the usual place of oMerubly of tbe DMmben of tbo family, aikd alio tbtt
MttBg-rooni i here tbo women Ml at tiidr spiniiioK in tbo winter, or ab
my other nf tin iiuuordom««tic occupation*. Near it are llie bedchnmben
of the head« of the Dually and their chililren, aiid oppoidles on Uie otfaor
lido of tho patHge thow »r the ukaids and tbe men. " 31vivr in der Taua"
liaa, nion-iniT, hi* privaU' TDom of burinew.

Oil tbe second atoiy wore tlw bMt roonu Car fi^ueiti, and the rtore*
XMiiu. In th«M " 9undaT rooroa" many bar* the portniti of their iiro-
geniton. Thn*e of " Meier in der Tann." were all clotlied froiu head
to foot in ravLii-blocIc, nnd loolwd HIlo «> inaiiy Venetian noble*. Ilere
ftro always a number of bods witli inagnitic^nt mouiitainB of featherf
Uid Kay-colonred qnilt», fur any firiters wlio may bappvu to c«ni«.
In tiieie " Sunday rooni*," in pTMWi, cbeitii, and diawen. iam bridal (inery*
tba traaturea of linett, nietid, and the holiday clothca of Uw wife) ft blaok
•iKmcn-, a binck silk /lillr/ (to diey call tbe M6t gowD% and a pretty capof
otter-ikin, «itrniounl«] by a utar of pearb, are otimad awav, all tbiuM
wbii'Ji ill fomi nnd material rtfmind ttt of Ba%-arin, wlwncv IJieie ii Uule
dvnU (hii< part of Aucttia waa colonised. Then tlivra i> tbe iatfi (room)
for fnut. in fihich are kept whole oheiU full of drini apples, peoDt ami
plums ; aud a. hiimeM-rooin, where the abuudance, order, and aimple oma-
nent, please morv (baa all the brilliant thow and rigid aocuracy of a stute

VISIT TO THE HOUJIC OF AS AUETBUN PEARANT.

of royti ■Cable*. la m»ay peaunts' boom in tluc put of tb« conntry,
Umw an not leu thin fotty roomi.

Tha ntaetcebbnted nco of honm in all Llio countiiei betweni Munich
anil ^'vnIla, tootli of tho Dnoabe, is the I^uigiuirr. Thtrte an large,
tna^^ifi'^cnt animals, brouf^ht here as eolts, and roarvd on lh« fiiw ntMulom
of tbe Danube. Tbe^- ore wei awhile for agricultural labours, and cbeo
Kilt to Vieooa, where llieac huge animak are met with in llio sprvicc of
the butchera and brew^rt.

Tliv ttock of homed cattio aa tbe Datiubc i» constantly ruppUed from
ihe mimntnin jiutnrMi, nliere ttiu fari'cdiat; of cattle ij ofuQ the only poa-
aible oci-u|>ation. From Piiixgau, I'on^au, and the Stytian Alps, tbo catUa '
descend to tho plains to fill up th« f^jn made by death and tbe bntebv,
unii vilii«h the smaller cattle iirotluction of the plains cannot •uffimently
tup|)h-. The most rcroarkable of Uiu arningt>inents for ftall*fed aniinab
■re tJia [jifpititfa. The lodj^n^ for swine in Austria are lof^ gpaees filled
with hng rows of chcstj. tlmt in on all iultn and li-ft o|>cn at the top.
Each nf these chests b the dueUiii)>;-|ilat-eof » pig'. In guiirral tliey are
oude of thick beams, but some nf tha riclic-r fiumers hate tlteni of iolid.-i'
nnooth liewn blocks of fr&Mtanc. Krprv \yig has his food in his own
stall. In this manner vacli animal enjnys cnu.itantly fresh air, and yet i*
closely enough shut un to grow tat at hi* leJ^ure. Thia system of salitanr
confinement protects them Irom ca«h other, and tho gnMm olaanUnata u
prnfcnrcd Dinoiif; thcic uiiclciui brutes. Mora perfect swinish accommoda-
doQs are not. I believe, tn be found in ICurope. Circe could have hail nO
better for lllyssea and hLi eompaiiions.

The ci<l«r preMcs in an Austrian familiousD am also worth seeing. The
vine is not cultivutcd in Upper Austriit. but cider is made on a vi-ry larga^
eeale, and an intoxicating ar'mW U prepared from pean as well ns aj>|>lM.
Tho fruit i* finit crushed under a large stone, put in inotioi) by a horw, and
is llien {>nt into thepiKtset to conipWi; tbe o^M-ratioii. In a Inrj;;!^ bcHisc
hold Uiere are fonietimoK tun or twelve «iirb ]>r(->!<e>;. Little as nu etteem
tlut acid bevarftf;^. It is hero an nhsnbite noc.»?«ity, and " Zehnterim <>om-
meriiig," or " Meior im Icorcm Buscli" would lose all his men-servants to-
morrow, if tliey did not get their due portion of *■ apple wine." Further
up the Danube, in the land of beer-driukiof^ Uavnnati^, the uro of cidar
declines. Lower down the nvcr the sour Austrian wine copw* into OM^
and furtliur nu tbe sweet Iluuj^anan,

" Mvitir in dor Tnnn," including his children, bos not less than jbr^
pei>pIo in his hotise. Ue Tel£itvd to me mnny aiiccdoti'n of the eiupewr
Fraudd and the artihduke Ma:(imilian, w}io had ofU-n stnpjKxl at liid hooM.
Hi* wifv ai»l cliiUran, in tho mcaiitinie, were making dumplings for th*
morrow's Holidny. .Strict order and discijtline were kept in tlie Iijiiim', and
behind the pictui« of the Sarinur, i>» thi; wall, 1 miw nturk up tlmt educa-
tional auiihary which we g«!neTni!y hide belnni) the piece of funiitiire that
repeats tn us ditily and honriy, the most itgreeahle, or disfigrraable, truthsl

As " Meier in der Tann" accompauied me over liis farm-jard, and
showf-d me hiji abundance of good liiinfpt, I said to Itiin, " Vou sell this
rieh pn>du(.-i> in thti eity no doubt?'' " Nay," was bis answer, " why shoold
I soil it in the city? I can eat it mysvlf; it is better so." I afterwardi
learnt that this was a usual answer of tbe wealthy Austrian pca«aata to
inch ijuestions. " I can use it myself, it's better so."

'Pwo blooming, good>butaoui«d oliildivn aceompooied us, and gave mo

FVBUC LliJBABr,

n friondly " God be vUIi yn>, God Ik with you," wfaca w« rwcboci tlio
gT«at Irws siiTTouQding Itiv y&rJ (cTi-rr one of tlic yurit, m uEual, nu
vtuTountlvd witli old tires) ; wlucti I ncknowlMl^d in the same style, and
Tetimied to Eddfiberg througli all {}io rich lowlands, on wluch the rude^
blonk mountain mure cosU down such black Mid c-nvious loolt*. Tho
lidiifal peiuaiil in Upper Aiwtri* » iupp<»L-d to he Stedingcr. I had
«OCMUMi to lisit htm alio, mbteqoeutly ; but all Uiese hxna are u like
•ach other lu so m&nj figg*.

Tile personal service wtucb tlie peaeanti are held to roitdrr to tbcir
guperittr lonl, is trifling in real amount. It It, for tliv mmt part, com*
juubxi for luoiwy. Itut tlin titbcs, which are Ivriod by tba Ionia of th«
toil, tho l>iLlctine; of K^ldicrt, llio inilitanr conwnptinn, b> wliiob tbfl
nobln arc n^t suujrct. and the many impcmtl and seigneurial taxes, preai
Iwavily oil the peasants As the land. Itonever, it, ou tJin wUnle, fvrtile,
the people tchtr nud dilij^ent, and the law, (liHp)ti> itd AjiprcMiKt ciiact-
mtntis ic a4la)iu)iti;ivd iu a »pint n> fuvoumblci to die subject, that tlio
cinpctur Fmiicia someliiucs cnmplniiied h? could not obt^ii jiutic« in hii
stuts against hia own jiensanls, agriculture, with all itj disadvantages, it
ill the ilouruihtng coitditiuii I )iav« alwvv dt-scribed.

An "m!(I law prrTftils in this rliiss— namely, that thcfiimi duccndi to the
jfOHitgeai son instead of liiv thivxt, on iJic <!(>ntli of (he father. It \» sop-
po«d that by tiiat tlroe the elder Bons arc otherwise pioftd»d for, whil«
the youngest may ufu-n iited an itiheiitance. Wit!) us the more rational
notiiiii jirnviuU that tlir> I'hiint «oit, as, ihe ablest and most uatural guardian
of the yotinj^ branches, muK first be enabled to supply effectually tl)«
place ot the parent.

PUBLIC LTBRART.

The irat«r of tlio Danube '\i of the eoloiir of aqua marine; that of the
Ailing emerald green. Tlio waCora of the Itanubo an» thick, ehn«o of th»
Bliiiie tian-^iiarvut ; the colour of the fonnor may probably be ofiected by
tlw sllinu it hnng!) willi it, and which is oF a milky greeu as if a cguauttty
of eorjH!)iline g|«ue dii^t wort' mingled with the quaitx saiid. Thin iiliin«
is d('P<<sit«d in tho cold hitth* wliicli are erected alot^f tho hanli.^ of tlio
river. The waters of the l)anulio seemed to vote much colder than those
of the other great riven of Germany, and a bath in iM green tvaten is
Mrtniuly on« of the mott refreshing enjoyments that can be offered to tlie
wearied body.

1 had just come out of such a one. and was taking my last walk through
the streets of LJnx, when I came upon the BibOothoca publica of Uie
Lyceum, whereon standj^ the beautiful Greek inscriptiou, ^';^^t larpripr^the
hiivw for the hewing and rpfrwshnient of the soul). What oould be more
oppr<riuue? I entered ; the tirst name I licanl hfiv, an in nearly erory

S'ublii; inntJtutton in Auatria, waa that of Joseph the Seoond. 1 \t was the
ktutidcr of tliiii and many otlicr bbnriea. lie induced or compelled Uie
weiiltiiy convents to furnish books, and ttuu fonncd ui the prinin|)nl ntiea
cf the monarchy, eoUections BCC«aeibIo to all, from trea«urc« that had
before Wn hiddm.

1 found hen>, lu in all ntlur Austrian libraries, Rotteck's History of the
World, and the " Sfmpiice Vtrita oppotta aUe nunsojrnf rfi Unrwo
Jlvilty," a work written by an Italian, in answer to k book published by

106 THE pictcbe-cjO-leet between likjs and vieswa.

4l En^ibnun, in condcmnAtioD of U10 Austrisn eystma nf gorminiciit

In niuiY Attftriou Ebntnci tlic foHnildni Tniit u vnthroeed high tboi9 •
-the TcUum-Uxtnil ToKimct uf thwIugA- 1 it is pliwrd there ptnpnvh*, test
tli« grown children tbould OT«r-eat tnemnhrM ; tho lante aimugpinvnt I
^ntrved b«rc ; ftud mor«ov«r, U16 Iwlder hy which It wna to bo rrnch^d,
ms ao ■hort, that it wm «t the ri-dc of my life, stanilin;^ on the topnuMk'j
ilep^ tlut I frur<<o«<il«d in ob4iuuiiig a glanue into th»e region*. Ire*
Si4rited th«r«s " The Triumph nf PhiliMophr," Mauri "PAtriotic Fan-
Umttt" fail " Politic*! Truth«, ' and simiUr woriu. A sMciid dire which Z
-vnttmd uson,plaaecl twavolumiii of BiilTon'* Natural History in my hnniL
IcouM UkU( oq tliia with tnlombto imtitTcrcnon ; Initio tlie Auitrisustuilentv
bow costly iDuit appear thi« fottnddcn, and. tlicrvf^rc, doubiy twixt fruit 1
DonbtleM aa the fincit dipnici on the m-o's topmost branch to the cyva ut
tba boy who ia onaMe to reach the iimteaily cruwn.

The mort Tcomrkable port of tb« collectioo, «w a «opy of Lutlwr'tf^
M(nfilet«workii,w)dinan'ovrr, the olileit edition. They were rxtrvtiwlydtntf*
and I aakad lh« attendant wlwtKpr they w«re much uwd. " Ho," said he i
"in the thirty y«iars 1 hare been here, I hara never taken them down.'*
Pirfaaps they were procured at a lime when Mmc hopes of refutitt^ Luther'a
hemlea were ttitl chcrUhetl. ami they ha»e nerer bwii looliwl at amee.
Pnfiaps tko time may not Iw far dictant, when Atatria will allow tho
ladder* in ber Ubrariee to W made a little longer, or brin^ tlic ir|nrit*, iioiV
abandoned to the diut and the njiiden, a little lower down; the library |
naj than in a loftier mnse than now beeomr> the tfrv^tit hrpt'ia. and the aom
nuiy then luxuriate here in as re&«4bing a bath, lu thi> body enjoys in tba
qtiicketiin^ waters of the Danube. In thU, pei-h^M^ approaching epoch, inch
old Gothiv tawB and pmlubitioni will not be reneweo^ as we now tee oanred
in (tone, on the 'Towii-hntwc of iJnt. TliU itin;rulnr inscription runs thus eJ

" Uia Honiau and Imperial Majesty. Kin"- of Huiigrary and Bobemiogl
ourmoatgnicioiis lordwilU and commandji, that ito i<nei he he who 1m- nia/il
tnvauma in or before thi^ free land hou^e to curry anits, or to wrxvtle, otl
figbt, or make ant/ riot whata-tr. Whoever act in any wi» contraiy tsi
vus prohibition, will Ix; piiniiih(il with all severity in life and limb. Ra»
newed 1568. 1679, 174r», IWo."

I thought at (irot that tliU nnjB^lar and har«hly<«ountling pmhlbitua .
had only been renewed for the sake of it* historical ciiriority; but u niUiV
of Lini auured me that it wan feriouily meant to tiifutc terror, and
deemed one of the privilege* and im munition of the Town-hotue.

THE PICTUBB-OALLEHT BETWEEK LDTZ AXD TIEKNA.

The portion of the Dannlw lying belwwn Linn and \nenna, \» C«P«
tainlr the finest part of the great rircr, for here nature and art hare united
to adorn \U «hore«, na they Uave done nowhere ol« aloup the whole
nxiecD liundrcd niilea of its counc. In ono Itairdiy to lee all tlii*M heaa-
tifnl, great, gisceiful, and intcrevtiitc nt^ectt, witli all their hictoricol mona*
menta and natural bratilie*, niLi« before one's eyc«, seema an enchanted
drtUD, and keeps tbe susceptible mind in a conntant alate of iiitexicatJon.

The Romanj, while they held these lands, ieem, however, to linvc felt
BO such iatoxioatMU ; to tncm on abode by tlie thorn of the Danube was

Tire nCTtmr.-oAi.LKitT n ww EBy rrsz kftn vrtntyA, lOT

Tfttlivr a flwMim of « h^nry nnd npprMsivo kmij, ytt it was exactly tlib
beautiful part af its banks as far as Vindobmia. ttut whs the iiitr nf tliair
ninrt important battles nitli tJie ticminns. The left hnnk they eallixl lh»
foTCh^nri nf (JomiaTiy {Frona Germaniir}, and the cy'>l>i"""i' <rf t'lo Danube
(^tfttprrdiia Is/hri). TIic vrrinkli'^, fscrr*-cncc«, iajrjTCfl rocks, ami hirrm
of G«nnan)'s nidc (rnnt, may liav? figured itran^ely in ttw IcUpth tii llicir
ftwodi in Italy from tlim« cold norllieni bciundaTiM of thrir bcautifiit land.
Urrc, if aDvnhciv on eartli, the muiabilitr of matin- and the vonrse of
erpnt)! may W adniirwl. The cyrbrnwa of tlip l>aniib9 are now foioothtNl
bnieatli uw hatchet and tliv jilntiju^li ; tli9 fields w smilini^ imd«F tlio
birMt M)d riclie^t euHivation, and of ihe fomta otily *o luucti reniaiiui a^
the painter would dnin* to prcwr^'c, in order to enrich and rlcvate the softer
rmrioii n( tlir inendow and thft cor»(h>1d. Tlti* forehead of Uvrmany
what wM its *«r*mB frontier, niw nn« tiio wre of a great monajthy (
lie rejected stocM is become the foundation and coriipr slMie of tin- liiiild-
iny, for here liea the Ctadle of llie Auatriaii monarrhv.

Strenfj<T* from nil land^ now eome to |^nw on the eitiM that hare ariwn
round the Rnronn cniup-statipn on the now Atnooth Front ficr/nftnue, and
tlie subdncd hnck of tlie wild Ifther. Years ng<\ the Eiigltah ami S'orlh

LOennaii!) lieodcd not the inennvcniencet of the Oannbe naviji^liriii ; Init
fiow, thxt (lir 7!rl«Mi*)im'>tit cf fteuiiibnnts hai increased the facilities ton
Or twenty fold, the river is riiitrd even by those thnt dwell near it. Monks

, now wand«r from their ultnstnr oimI ^le on these new wonders. Students
a^ from all parts, for nnw even their slender jniTsn mfEee for a voya^

'down the I}amibe; tmptajflt, wlnwt short Irave of ahtcnre did not for-
ttmty pmnit unch cxcunribnn, nnw take their planv, with tlipir wire* and
rfiilien, in tlio handmrip cabin*, wid float np and down the IHiiubo under
the iirotccliofi of the public at lar^. In these days of steamboats, peopI»
have found feet who find none hefnre, gome have ^ox apTeo-lcagne Ixwta
wlu> nraueMed befDre but ordinary ahoea, purse* have become fuller, and
days longer.

AtsiioVloek in the morning, on the fifth of Aug^ut. tliebellofthe«teain>

^boat tite Arekduhe Stephen, summoned lU paaseogcm, aperimetia of all thd
" are-m*)iiwne<l ela«e» or«ociety, erowded toftether. There w«re Kn^ltih-
Bcn who ipokc not one word «!' Umnnn, nioitks with nhavcii rrowns Indies

[with childTen, w)iisker»] llurjrarians, ^'ienna dandi«s with eye-frlaases
id of ej'es in their heads, Berlin tTiveller^ with Dvnnenretfrr in ifacir
noutlu. and many othiTs ludcn with eluaka and wraps, bata and bnnd-
boxon, poraeola anil umlnwlla*. «lk-k>t, pi|ies, eheoU, and tnniks. It wm
just mich weather m nct^>rdinir to ibn imajj-inallon of the Honiaiix must
■enertlly hare pr«»6iled in " netml/ttti Gtrmania." A thieic fnjf hune
Eke an imiienetrflbltr veil over the AI)Hne chain, and hid ihc black and gold
Bra)H-*r{ue borders of llin towen of t.tnt. From out the fou' distilkNl a ftao
rein, nbieh gradimlly inerca^ed. till we were ihrttnN'ned with a day tn en-
eliaiit all tlie snails and ducks in tlie L-ountry. Wc (loor passvnp'r* wlio
thronged the decks of the Anhdukt Stephen as thickly as the wild ducks
did the reedy ttih*ta nf thd I>nnuhr, nrept like snaiki in suiHhine under
(nir ninnttci and umbrellas, while tliosc who could find a plac>e, took shelter
in the en bins.

Tho beautiful eltanf^ nf scenerv afforded by tite rity of linx and Its
envirmna, round whicli the Danube swetpn almort in a somkirvle, iMased
Bnnoticed by g iiuleedi ae hr as I wm penonally concerned, I could dia-

108 THE PICTURE-GALLEttT BETWEEN LISZ AKD VIENKA.

Mfit objectf onlj: hi far lut tlut cireiinifi*rcnce of my umbreDk reaehi>d,
itnn) vhosc cxtrctniU- fell ft Iicit^ sliowcr ot' tirop^, liiid my cuinpiuticiit
were more kiiuous aooiit the liglit of their ci|:;ars, tluiD the light of tntn-l-
liDg iufpirBtJoD. Wo wen> all deplorably ttull &ad out of tuiii> ; and fore*
Mw not whftt wM preptuiiif^ for ui ov-vi)i(.-ai], nor wh&t a dfty wins l>ef«T« iis,

At lh« very bogiDitiiif of cur joiinii-y, na I stoiilncd fiiiin i)im brid»
that M to iho viwspI, I had ttie good funiino to p^t *wh a tlinitt iii tb*
•id« from the trunk of one of the pu<eug«m, that 1 thankrd God in nl«nc«
tor the eUatic sti«ugth of my riM. 1 say the good fortuocv because tbe
pnndi mui such a hearty one, that the iitaii wa« iiot cimlent with the usual
txvuttM or pardon, .VooMuur, witli «*}itch ue u<uaily satisfy ourwtli-M on
aiwh oocoaioDi. but taaui to me again uhvr li« had ttoncd awuy liii box,
Kued my hand, besfged my pardon a tboiuoad times, and iiii|uiTrd most
Aiiiiously whether 1 ws-s hurt. Thus, among so niany straiigei-s. I suddenly
found a fnend. whom I mi^it not have a^i^uircd for hmin by the obier«ance
of tiiB i-nuvcutiona] ccn:nK>iii<-3 which cniid«ttiii lu ^o \oag to vUcncc, until
tome uiicxpet't4-d owoinvtit'o brings hs nearer In each oilier.

iiy tieir acfiiiaintancc was a man of business ; ht? had fo1ti>ii-od the
DniiiiW in all iu wiitdiiijp, and had lived from his yootli upoit it4 banks.
While he »ac by iiic I allownl tbn useful to talte pnnredi^nni of thn beau-
tiful for a time, and took a Irxeun from him on tlio cwuUtiitioii of tlw bed
of die DsDubo, and tho enune of traffic on ila w»t«r4, and mi Iniifr a* the
raiu continues I will share with the reader the infonnation I acquired.

The Danube, hcmmad iu by luounlaios. Sows by Linx in an unbmlien
■treaiii. ilelow the eity it boginn to citpand, cnilvaciuji^ nmny large aodj
amaller i«landii, aitd dividing^ iiit'> many arma, one of which mav bf^ oonsi— <^
dered the ninin arteiy. Tliuit it eontinuea til) it reaclie* the celebraled
whirlpiml iie-tu* Gtt'iu, ubene all iu wnlen, uniting; in one ehaniiel, flow
on ninjciticaily far fi>rty milcf, till tiicy have worked thoir way ihroug-h tlu)
mountoias and narrow posses near the city of Kremsn and toniing to Ivvel
ground again, dirido, forming arnm and islands beyond Vienna. The
condition of the water in this varying and Miiietinie^ obrtrucled coune^
ond iu consequent pncticaliility for trmdc and iiai-igution u very varioua,
and hence many iteniliar words docriptivc of it liuve bcvn inrcDted, w
axv not known on other riven.

Tttc main lereaai, which m»*t offer the prineipa) course of ttavigati'
b called tho " .Vaw/aArt," and t)>e Kt«crMnen, who must know it accunUely.
and mme of whom are alwayv on boan] of tli» tteamboats, ane nunietE
XaufSreh., or A'nti guidra. Toe Nau cluuinel underjgoM Uttle or no change
in tho OIROV JMwea, but in the iiei)i^hourhood of the itlatidi, the furiuui
npdi^ of the current changes it very ofben ; aometanet ui onn of the
atrcam, navigable befiire, will cknn-, and nnothor onca that was formerly
quito tmpracluable. T1>c Urgi>r l>rdnc)i«« are callca arms, but the smaller
Doea arv dcnomiiuted '' Hume," and tbey ore dutinguiohed agvn as '.rrv^t
or little " Jthnze," The Utile ereelu and broader ezp&nwnt, Mhieh arc
often fbmid ahut in between the sandbanks and tha ishtDd<L, or pcninndai^
•re called lakes. Amon*; thcso lakes a conatont change is taking pkuw i
somctinies they bunt their buundary, tbe stagnant water becomes curreut,
and U»e lake is ai^in o " Uuuse." Thn tnluiding matter contained in th«
Danube, is e*ll«i •* Jiath^t," " Utromffrvs," or " i^Atrf/." Tbe cwtd-
b*nka fonnctl by thit "r/ria" are not called sandbanks, hot "Ifaufm,^
or hei^ If these banks are foniMd DOl of tond, Init of rock, aud remain

Tira PICTTTRE-OALI,EBT BETWEEN LINK AMIV VKVHA. 109

lunlcr tlic surrace of tlic water, tliey arc named in the Dxnulw language
Kuffiiti, or btiUrti, [*rlinpi from tlie rounjed fotni* rf ftll thcM i¥»c!t«.

If l)tc«c '*J/avf*^»" rittc liigli oul of tli« wnUrr, ukI w OTOt^rowa wiUi
irood, thr^ art' cidlcd .-Iwc/i, or tiic-itclnwi. Tl^csc meadow*, wnen covered
with aepciu, lUdere, poplnrt, nisples, willovt, nndsTinibs of ftll kinds, afinrd
cortT for iiuiuraenibte giunp ; even stags are fuund there, ivli'dv tlie lake*
and linHse ore thronged with wuterfaw), wild duvks uid gi-esc, facnnu,
ciane«, plovvn, And espectall}- u bini called " fialier" by tbe poople of the
co<iiitrj-.

Tb^c nieadowH are often inundated m tha courae oFtbe year. When
the laud hiM nbuuiied tuch n height that itr.-tii bn uibiect«d to rvjriilni'L'ul-
tivation, lliu foniintion of t)ip l>iniibe isloud im coniiilotod. But all tliew
ibimatioafi are Eubjvct to coDStaat ctuui^. Now a nndbank la formed
vhcre before it was deep nator ; now the stT«sm is jawing at a» blaiid it
shmly raised eoiituriea befnre. Here a hanfe ia raiuid to im " Au" or
neiulovr, and Avcr^^nn-n with biuli, which, in the eoura« aF tini^, chnng;c«
to a nrood, tlierc man is turning to profit tlio lint turf, n-liii-h lie hopra will
one day become arable land. Prouiontorira, poniusulas, and natural dikes
SIC thrown togetlior by the iravoa on one side, wliile, on the Mher, they aiv
weariik]^ away aitd d^alroying otbcw, and thus tlw M*ild rivur-ffwl t^MS
nhoul in hiH procriutean bed, wliidi he finds now tuo narrow, and iiuw too
qiacioas.

Such places, wh«re lh« water a undcrmiQing the shore, are called
BrvchgfstStir, or brealc-batil(!<, anil here the l>eavera of the Danube have
tiwtr cn«cial dwelliti^. !]y the Khon- (a/u l-fff), meoni a narrowoi* part
of the nvOT where tho banks approach, and there is a fiwty.

The )in«iage duwn tlie Danube is the " Nabf'ahrU" that against tho
•troain » tho " Naufiihrt.*'* The eipreasions mountain and valley pBs-
nn wltieh arc in u«e on the Rhine, are not known liere. An Auatrian
Nilor whom I questioned about it, uiuwn-ed — " Mountain and viUlry pof
mge ! uay wc know nothing about sucli tlungti here. Hon is that poiwible !
How ran we o^t over mouTitaina and tbrou^h ralleys?"
> For the "Aa^ciAr/" the before-muned Nau ptJota arereavuredi but
when they an gmng agairut the atretun, tevcnil vcMels ore nsiuuly faateiii-d
together. We often see two or three large and several iniatler r«Melj so
ehained together, and «ueh a flotilla, with the necessary team, is called a
dejfen/uAr, or rouiit^rtoiirfc. Theae c-ountercouMei often require from
thirty to forty Iioi-m-v. and it'itiietitne« nmrc. On ^eiy hor^e a innii a
mounted, miu tho wlioli* (ipiiiiinin iii eonimaiided by on nlJ expr^eni^ed out*
lidcr, ciiUm) the Jf'aghah or Slangcnrritcr (dareilcvil or pole-rider), be-
cause his balou of office is a lonr jiole, wilIi whieh he niBke<i lignaU, fuiil
sounds th« rii-er. Tlio other rider* are caller! the " IWrVa," Tbe coin-
naods issued by tli« pole-ndcr, cr which are iMued to him from tbe ihip^
are immediately repented by the whole corpj of " l"wi'fcf,''ioo wildtry. Tiio
words of commaud are generally sliortened to meTB uitrnjections, oa " fTt I
Ao r (Halt, halt,) or *• lAiue laf" (Let them go on.) Searoely has the
pokfridcr, or steersman from tlic ship. Aont the sound slowly through the
ur. than It is taken up by forty lliroat^ and forty whips, and four times
forty hoofa. are nxrested or set ui motioo.

"the honts ridden by the " JWr/s" are generally Fitu^uer bones, bub

TB» PICTCBE-OAI-LBRT BETWEEN Llira AFD VIESWA.

■K dl called Trauti honas mlona this part (>f tLe Duiubc, pn-faum Iiecani* .
tbc EnHUer numbvr of tli* wtwiac vifioitoU frou Plo^au, 6ni tliur vrftj|
to (lie UoiiuImi tliroti^i Traun vaJlry.

TliEi roads uii tlic banks of the Chiniibfl ue oUen very bad; the ^ _
meadow 3 aiid unxly blaiidBiire modUy swampv, lunicaftrtinml tnwin(;-{iatlia
for lliu liuncB »r« very iieueuury. I Iw rt«us are named " L<i»}>fud " by
tiic lUiiiw, uid Vtn, lb* " 'Ifuffuhlui," or '• Trcpprlwcff." ThcM
** TVfpfuficvyf" arc noiBtiines on uiip khIv of the river, aud sometiau!)! on
ifae outer, aoi tben a frequent kaJliuff, aud Bbi[>piDg ov-«r of the horiM
beeomes unavoidable. Fur the long tracts of pOBMRO vhcro the baaka are
not pMnbli), or wbore iiut " Nau/aArf" is very distant from tliem, th«
hornet must p> into tho water, %■)•! it mar th«rcfoT« be easily imagined
Low danKCTTOiu ascnice tbey aud tbuir " Models" baic to jwrfurm.

Tbe large veMeU that naviffate Uiit part of tJw Danube, an; calJed " ITo-
htnouer." They cony two uiouiaiid hundred-weight of goods. Noit to
tf wiu iu uaportaDci), an tW KMh cimvrs. Tht: HoAt-uavert g9 ouly down tb«
river, and tlioiwh largor, are wontu built than tin.- KtUHici»urs, wlut-h paM
but)) lip and down. Tlien a^'m tl»<r« an' tliu (itimxris and fiatten,
and the ZHI4-H (bi^ftts). 'I'bv lattur, wIi'kU are attaclied u> tlic Im)^ Jleh*-
iMiier aiitl KfAJAeimer, are cblli-d Nupplx-mitut^ (nr&«N^i)- Aj^a thaas
naielti luud tu eonvay Hut "Yoddx" mid Hmv bun»s to the other ado^
have their peculiar oanae] " SchteemnK^r."

A coiuplete refonoi at pneent, aw&ita tbe wliolo of the Danube shipping;
in fatit, it bait already Im^^uq. Tliu iiitiuductiou n( iieani-ve»c.'ls compeU
all manner of iinnrov«nic4it. I (halt have occasinti, hereafter, tn mentiiin
how even ibc omioary I'csaela for tbe navigation of Uie rirer bave boguo
bJ be coiutnii^ted 011 a better pliui than formerly.

The Daiiubu Ixintmon have a peculiar tcnaiuAJof^ for alt natural ap-
patranccSi objt-'cts, aud accidoots. A calm u Uic wind't holiday [teiM-
Jti^). Thi- ship if •* ffewappt," ihcy nay. when the vravM strike tllv sidei
aad till it with water, if it bo too hvuvily laden, or when it if too stnaigly
impctlcd by the *' Yodels." Hut a Ixvok >iii};ht bo tilled with tli(»c tiling
iuiouj^h for the useful ; turu vc now to Uiu a^Teuable.

Tlu; rain, wbldi, in tha boltomk'a!! di^ptbs of our despair, we had eipocted
waa about to Bpoil our plea>ure entiit-ly, bad abrady eeaied. On tho
viugs of riuam, wo were rapidly home tbroiigli ibo renoaoC miu, aud
caiuc to n part wlierc all lookt^ cliivrful ii;^n. A bright sim descended
on our dewy QtAAs of oloalif, and drouk up the luoisture ib&t rested on
th«m and on tlie ringlets of the Udicj, Stoyeregg, tho caitle of eld
Khuviirioger ; Lichteubere. the Mat of tliv Starlioniberga and 8clinllen>
bci]g»; 'nUy^urg, the oM fortress bettow^d ou bis vetentn gi>iiera1. Tilly,
by thii oin|Hrror Fnrdinaiid; and Spielberg, ilie seat of the kuights of Spiel-
berg, and afterwards of the lonU of WL-iwciiwulf, wiLli uiuuy olhix beauti-
ful castles and villBK««, were liwt to lu ; only tliui mucti tliu rain tiad
allowed us to observe, that the uto of many of tliwo waa admirably
adapted fftr pilln£|ia on the rivar. Spielberg, for Jnataace, hes, like a
beaver -Tillage, b«liind the buHby uieauow* in tlie middle of the inlands,
flk«e to tbe iotcrior harUiur of a " Ituiizo," and hud, by ineuis of it, two
water-passages to tbo D.-uiube, so that niLtiy a eCratagem of t])o lanls of
Upiclbvriif may luive been suggested by tho position. Tlie Rhine, which
in thiit purtion of it flowing belwer^n Maihz nnil Bonn, is so often eiim-
pared to tliis part of tha Danube, bus uethiiig of tliis wild liland-mcadow

TUB PICTL*RP.-GAU.£Br BETWBEK MHZ AKU V1£NKA. Ill

sceuery, Muiy ft^mire Uiv lUuce tlw nooie for thu want ; but, I mut
COoTea*, tbeir praaencs leal aii additional ohsna to Uw Daunlx! iii my eyea.
TllMe etttlea, ludden In the rteis — Umm idkiuk, to&ftut*il liv « eoliury
fiahannui— these ui(I«Iy-ti>rea(iiiig nvor-Twnt, lowng thmattivei s w)iiJ«
in tliv H-ililcmof, oiitl then a^a eniergiog, bright aail dear, rrom the
voods, to uaile oooe more witli tlia great itnam (an ialand haj, tn iuel^
■onietfiiiiff poetical, ami U ou object that oan leKTCcly bo tvpeat«d too
olWu) — in a wotif all tliLt rckcnicut motion, and tKo olmoet Riitediluviao
event* n-cordt-d oftlic Dtuiul>c, oppoied to tbc ncJ] cultiTatlon, th« tiis-
toricol BMociations, and tl)o ui<!ture«|ue vieva on iu banks, fonn n cnntrut
wttnlly iraociii^ to tlie Rbiuo. Tlier« th« cultivation u mora' strikuv,
ainioni tM> ntrilaiig ; on the Danubv, Naturv la wildor — many mil tm^
toa wild.

St- P«ter'a, in Xha ueiuJoK-s, AbeUberg^, and Pulgara, vrere Icct to tu
In- the rain. At the nwiUb of tt* Eus, on th« Iruiititu- line bvtwccn tlic two
Areliduehifti, wliere the Une-weadicr racioii began, tli»t pictun?-gaUery
fiiat biM'ftmo viiiEilo-, tn which the '* NauJinm" of (\w Diuiube reprucnttd
tfaa oorridor, and the duck of tL» steamboat the rolling duur.

Tlic firet pi«oc which presented Itself was Mautnanseo, opposite tlw
ipouth of the Eui. Tlie pmec u extfemdy oU, and lie* cIom to th« shore,
with ft ruinous, tower-lJM cuU« in iu vicinity. The antique hauMi
ODwdod toother in a &w oarrow otivctHt gi«o lu double pleasure : firtt,
•s afTo/diiiff [ueturesque objectfi, and tli«o on account of the plwuaiit m-
fleclion, that we are not obligied to lire in them. Behind the town riao
the bills cuntuinm» the odebratud stone-qiuimeoi from wKtcb a beautlAiI
Itind of granite tuu Le^u luiig obtaia«d, thoqgb at thv cost of tnucli labour,
for tlie u£e of the cftpital. An old Garman diureh (8l Niebolas'g) reais
its head in tlie luidst, and 8 fl/iuff brid|f« iu tlte foivgrouod conre^-s pas-
scngiTi in tliv old, tJOuklefOiDO fa^ioo, over the ouiinated ttnaiii 'Hi*
boat stoppud just lung t-niHigh to catnh ihuse MUily CMtuma of lh»
idiofet and to put a bv«uttful Ilvn^fwiaa »ount««<, oad her yiA fairer
uglit^n into » boa-t, I had been lon£ rejoLnos in tl>c Fuiishiiie oFtbair
Vpecl. wlii'Ti tlicy tiurubiid with tlie I'iew of Mauthauwn, whoae foregrouDd
tbey so niuoh enilK-lliehrd. Tluiy were goin^ to pay a nsit of some day!
at Thurheirti, a.i tliey infomipd nic.

At tilt! mouth of the Eiiai, opponte >huittiausen. there is not much to be
•ran, as the strcftm it,£clt' flawii tJirough a low furvland, its own fonnation,
into tlio Danube, llut tlior« it the uiore bo bo thou^it about ; for, coasi-
dcred Killier in an hiatoricnJ or frco^^rapliiod poiwl of rivw, it is certainly
^e mnct important and iutereetiug ^ml l>etweoii Liiiz and Vienna. I ha4
oiVii rcfli-ctcd mt the importauev of lhi« lu)3-ei»l>i>ucbur«, And »4ked my-
•clf why thi- AuftrioDs bad mudc tlic-ii' UiMii tu lie oa eitlicr aide of tbe
,£af, raiiiET tiian on eithiT udo of thv l>jkiiiiU'. With my inap of tlw
2^uW country Wfore me, 1 pondered ou thv subject, and came to tUa
con elm ion,

Thv Danube, titis niiglity uavi^ltU rivex lias lie«ii the great dectlie
conductor for all those nations whom tlie coarse of events brou^^Ut within
ita territory, l^ey diuig to it as the aiuQ artery of tboir Ufe, mid spread
tbanuelves from its shores on either itie. as their vniious relationi per*
milted. Thui lliingary fnnnc«l ittolf on both sidei of tlu; Danube, so did
Austria, Bavaria, and !>waliia, like peorJi on one tXnog. Abov« and b*-
Imt the ttiesiD also, the vunous Iribea settled on its tr^utaries, the Iller,

lil IitrWEES LIXZ AND VIENNA.

^ . ..: il;i:\-!i. tlic Drave, and Save. These rivcr3

^..■.limaltv livthc Duniitw, into many portions;

._> .vir k'lHiilaries, and (.'uclosed tlicir territory

.■.M.iib^'d. Tliiia the lller scpamtcs the statva

„ ^ '(If l.»vh, Slime of the Swabian nations fn)m

i.^ivii Biivaria and tlic Areliduchy of Austria ;

., .v(*tvti Austria and Uungiirj- ; tlie Dnive be-

1^. .-..*; ih»' ■^'avc betwt'cn 8lavoiiia and Tiirkov.

„,,. '.Ill' March, there is no considerable incision

4 l''.-i;i'i mid the Eii.s. The Ens behig near the

XM. wa--< [inrticularly adapted for a Eiibdivision,

,, .iHirs*' i* exactly rectangular to the main stream

v..',\ I ivii I '»'>'>■»' *''"* *''*' Romans recognised the iniport-

.._*. '■ »*llev!<, *"d therefore iiartitioned their iVonrw;n

V '.■ vtmi' sii'tions that are now called above and be-

^ s 'i'.'iith of the Eiia they had their largest settlement

,,^,1 l.miivaenm afterwanls Lorcli, where a Ic^on had

" . , Wi\ liiiiitis his abode, and a fleet its harbour. After

\ M- i:is ■■ti the site of Lorch, aro^c the present Ens, celc-

\ s :(iii;;^'nli»'«l. and important on account of its commerce.

^ -.t' Ik-iii;ii;iie extended at Brst only as for as the Ens ; end

^, ~0l, he had resolved on his great campaign against the

.vs-i'rtl '">' 'I'" hanks of this river, from which he drove them

■, „ M ,tiii> «'•''"' '^''""^^ — theRaab. When the Hungarians first

* ^ ' imU «■(' the Ihinnbe, in the reign of Arnulph the Child, the

■■ '- ' .\^ ,!„. litiiit of their German kingdom. Tliat a toll was King

"■ "^' ^\ .j,t,_„„,'ii, near the mouth of the Ens, as if entering a foreign

"^ " H. .lui'iher result of the peculiar division of the land by the Ens.

* . -i*!!"!* ll>"* rendered this place the centre of traffic, have also

' "■ " ' ' '_ j„, iniiiiv utrnggles and battles that have been fought for the

' ^ '" -t It. 'l'"' >'»'"*'' of tlie Ens has enough of such encounters to

■III ihi* uniiilei'ruptcd hostilities of tlie Romans, to the last cam-

' I'lii |iliw'> where even Napoleon saw cause to shudder at the hor-

',.1 ;>.iifl'' It''!''-

'.,. »iii\ tii'hN and islands which the Danube forms here, present a

' '" . ,H.iv»-i'>n "f pictures in the Dutch style, producing most singular

' ♦iii.'iiir lhi' griuid mountain-landscapes. A fisherman may be seen

' "■ '. |,.tt Nhmv. ini>ii'd with the repair of a huge net, called in the lan-

.'. ii (he Miniubc a " tauftel," an enormous drag-net, attached to the

* Y Y ,1 (n>i> Mink in the river. Here you behold a water-mill in the

\ ii' 11 viipid Htn-ani, with a low island overgrown with willows .ind

*" ■'! * j.|„j,, |,v, si> little raised above the level of the water, that nomo of

■ ^ li i-.bi''" lift' wuNlwd by the rushing current. A miller is sitting on the

' ' ..(' II li-nm iiiiiiecting over the water, busied in some repairs. There

' !' ' V II little liarhom" for the shipment of wood. Now again, the broad

*'i,'itni in \i-ibh'. Hard by is a Store of wood, felled in the great water-

1 ■nl>iM«. Siiiiic people are engaged in loading a small vessel with this

(iinlii'i- I'l'i- Vieima. Around, nothmg is to be seen hut water and solitary

n,<i<ili'il nii'iidows.

Anil "II 'l""'"' pietures have the advantage of being well preserved, tho
.sihiin-t bright and fresh, the varnish incomparable. Even the beaver^

TItE PICTLRE-CALLERT BETWF.ES LIKI AST> VIEXXA. 113

»hich have tlirir ilwdlin]^ hen, An tlieiu no injurjr, but, on the contnuy,
(uld to the eGfoet. Tlmv ndiuterful uiimaLt ai« v«ry niniienius on tne
xivcr bctw««B I^ns ia6 Vieniiii. It a fuifrnlur enough tliiit t]i« pmgnet
of eiviHxation ahould not luvs acmd tbom •»»¥, and tlut Ihev Bnuuli] be
mora nunKTOiM 1irt« tlmn in parts 90 much wilder of tlie middle LhiiuilM> ;
they (u» oft^lv inireiji-rl, Iwth for iJieir skins niid tiwfir tc4tiflc«; stid the
worth of tlie whoro bwncr, wlicn the lutttr an: good, ii osunisted at from
6fky to sixty, and er«ii one hundrcJ fioiina. The Wateni build their
davllinjjrn nio«lly on the " breaking shores" before nicntioDed, and thonco
make cKcuruout into the ii-a(«r moadows, where, like the vrood-cutten^
they fell the trcos, c^-cially the aspens aiid poplnn. whmo vtood ia not too
hiufl. and of which the thick, flcshv.lentlien'niid constitutes their favoiuite
food. 'rho« beaver-houiea are dil^ouJt to find, as the animaU place the
entrance ainrap undt^r Uik natcr, and burrow upwards, lunl thiii tipfttT part*
wliich is properly tlieir dwelliiiCi is built with wood. a;id kept dry. Below,
the door ana foro-t^ourt of tJieir hoiut are rovared with unter, into which
they iiKuig« ou any aJarai. " One of th« mo^t ititcr^ating ocLuputioiu to
Iw met with on tlie Danube, is to watdi tliete (-n.'alu[i>s at their nnrk,"
Euid a e«itlBin&n to me, who, as a sportsman and Invcr of natural history,
had paid great attention to thfm, and kept some beavers ptitoners ou bis
estate. " Tiiey are as comic \a tiic'iz (gestures as monkeva. and as nctiye and
adroit at thnir work lu* persons who have not a iiiiimte to liwe. With
thmr realty formidable teeth thry hew down the treM like skilftil wood-
men, by a few well-directed iitrokc*, and cut tlicm into blocks. These
blocks they carry like poodles to their dwellings, where tliey &x them iTith
clay, which they lay on with tlieir tail«. They go splasbiiig through
tbc water pusliing Uifi blocks of wood, jostling and thrusting one another
aadc, us if tlii-y were working i^iunjt oiie another fi)r it wngtr. 1 Imvo
never seen tlieni driring pilet with their tails n* conie persons assert, nor
do 1 think so soft an instnimflnt adapted for such work. They are accus-
tomed, however, to strike the sur&ca of the water with thvir tails, soine-
tiine-s apjiaretitly out of mere s[)ort anil wantonnejn, but sontetjmes, probably,
-M'lieti pursued by an enemy, it is done to cover their retreat under water
by daihing the spray in tht face of the pujyuer. 'Thev are very difficult to
catch. To dig tnem out like bndgers is inipaosible. from the coiislniction
of their caves. I'o surjiri&e thein U no eo^ matter, on account of their
quickucH and forvcigbt. They are generally caught in traps. As, unlike
carnivorous aiiiimls, they find their food everywhere in noturc, tliese lraj:is
cannot be eonstrueted nor baited on the usual prinnple : the moat delicate
twig of poplar would be little attraction to thcro ; it is thcrcfere necessary
to place n grenl iiuinlwr of Imps in their way, and to be yvry cautious in
•o doing, OS tliey seeiit iron very readily. I once lud lifteaii traps in the
mighbonrhood of a beaver village, and was fortunate enoug^i to nitch a
cuuplt! iif thoughtUtM naiiderera fi-oin the straight iiatb. Tlic next night I
was uiiiucceufut, and to for ten tui^ccMiircly. No dnuht tlie niiahiip of iheu-
two comrades hod Ixicnnie known thronghoiit (he colony, and all ke^iC
themselves within their houses. At last hunger or ennui drove iIm^i out
once more, and on the clevoDlh night I caught another, evidently much
rc<diieed by Guting. But that was the but ; the beaver« took my intrusion
eo much ntnis*, that tliey ahandoa4Hl the colony, itov could I Uani where
they hnd emigrated to ; — in that ociglibouHtood no bcuTcf bos ciace hecu
fbuud."

114 TUB rrcnm&^iALLEKr betwebx iakz and ticmta.

The finMt news oa llio Danube begiu abont six (Genaan) nule* beknr
lint, It WbUmc : mbA tnilr, I beBm, tk Wait cntltunMtic pvnon in
tittn weriil ntott bsw feh luinflolf enraptured U Uw >^t of go magnifi-
ceati
pudtncnt <
tnyMlfntt

voiit>, pdacM, raniltojf vilbfM, inn^ Ininu, bermltaf^ duUuit mnuntAiu^ .
toNcn, broul nUlryd, Mid oeeu ravliics, sleep precipices, fertile Difndaw% '
were the obfacts tliitt pniJuccd thew woDWfful cnecu, iuteMl ct fna«< j
aMttt* of noM, bctnfi, «pangt&i, and bits of f^rasi. Kvery (trokc of Ok* j
cUam-eueine wrought a new and yet tnon- bcAutifol dmngr, aa if a iua|;i' ^
o&u bad neld the rtiin^ and pullrd them alwa^a at the prrciw moinenl. j
Somatiniea mount aiiu hemmed tu in on all oAea, and wa MCined cain«4<
over mnc nwantaiD lake ; anotltrr Utm, and w« ihot aa it wen thnogifrl
a lonjf rhaiit of lake*. The ■teamor nwltca on as if thrrr wnr no radt'|
diing aa a rook to be feered anMiud. To a rartaiutv «e ahull etrilce apen '
tbftt at tb« GonMT? — uo— a atrong pretsurC from uie liaud of thr c.xp<f
liciiCfd Iicimsman and wn double tbe rock) a oev oputiia^ ia rvvralcd, wnA ;
iww K-oiidvn displaj't'd fur and near. In niich Kudarai tiirni of the
ofini vxMiitod ill a lialf cmle of T«nr diort radios, w» obtain throi^^ '
BoUs and njcguig aitd the twelra cabin windows, a ciueaJe «f rieira i
image*, if f may uae Uw espn^«»iiin, in wh'u-ii all indiridualitj h tort, anA^
tliS affietof tiia wbola upon tho mtnd t* yirriVclIv ititnxi<<ati>if^. ApuntCV^
of any aufMptibili^ nusti 1 Ihiuli, sonirtimfs stmt hi* c-yc^-, that ho may
not low all aelf-oonimand, and leap over the fii<le of the vcsmI.

TlwViikailic iHinvn, wliioh, ui lliit times of Olini, piemed and rplorrarJ
tba autCam of our cortli, ahot acroM in tho nioi:;hbattrl)ood of Groin fio«
tlie tiorth, and tfarew up a dajii front tlie UobrmiaD forest to the A}p^«
wltieh fomted a powerful obalacic in llw waves flowin)^ from the weit.
At till* dam tho wavea liMig flawed, till at but they made their war
thniugti. 1'be hike, which hod formed above the dam, flowed otcTi am
the l>Hiiitbe linnit thrnugli tlie narrow past to a wider field beyond. Hera
aitd there, by tix aitle uf the cleft, fra^iM-ntx of mck lind femained in uA
under tho wator, a«d ao was formed tho celcbrotvd whirlpool ealled tlw
" Strum of Grein."

Grrinen in Austrian German nraanii much tltQ Eame as wtimm (rryiiag),
Bud Crtnufnira (or tha eaatlu of tear*, ) Iim cIom by the entFanc* of u*i
wbiil[>ool, and bean this trafpcal name, in the midst of one of tJie kmjieit'
pro'pi-ct-i thut vTown the iSuiube. The river ttAreU the featnrM of ^bm
fair caaLleuid town in friendly j^reetiiif^ liclore it dashes ita watere tinged
with the melancholy hue of the piuc fiircsls, over tho rock of the '* Strom."
Thii occur* at laat by (he litllc L^land Wor^i. lying like a fallen ooluraa '
of tlie oUl dam in tlie gate of tli« wliirl|>aol. Frcni Uiut raliimn Inw iwugM
of rock croea the rirer diagonally at both aidca, and join the hijRrh angdar
rocks of the ahore. Some are already to worn away that ther are now
nniler water, while otlien ttaitd pointed and jngf^ above. Tlie former
an< called •' KtigrlH' tlio latter " Koektlt," or " Gthachei.'' The mosi
of waters which pastes to tbe snutli of tlie ielct Worth, is called the on-
ttmncu: that which passea to the north !( divided by two lines of cliff into
IIm- •' Wild cli'ft," the " Wild wntt-r," and the whirlpool properly so called,
mid tkrou^b tlua the emperor Joseph, b)' the labour id thirtccu ytnetf

Tim TICTCBB-GALLEKT BETWEEN LISZ AND VIENNA. 115

ntoceeded in Km&vii^ the mort tUuig«roiu obetRudoiu, and forming tho

main pMtage.

FtWtlT tll« I

nitlie* :

■the

! Dtntibe

U hcArd fmin sfar— then it idunges into the " GefwrAtf," wh«r>o it surge*
]r«t mora impetuously, aod sDootd along vrtth a, ntfiiditj- btfittiui; Nqituue's
team of ii«fli<tnieii. Our raj^ne wm jilackeneil ; fur uiv [uirt, I would
villiugly hnri< lain at nnt^horhuvftwiiilu loi^iijny lh(> niafntitti'i>»t Kpt^rtMl*.

Th« rock of thv uJct Worth ia hii^KlT pivturv^quc, it lias cvvenj faeev,
and at the hue, itt the ytry extremity tu toe itlana, ]ies the old excresceaoe
nf a cantle. (hi tho summit of the rock, u hug;c ctom rean iteelf^ finn at
&ith ill l)i« midrt of th« «<>rmi of lif#, cUnf^tif; fut tn thn mck. ^cvcraJ
images nf uiiita arc niched nbout the rock, some ndanjcd with tlie votive
oRvnngs of pnaaiog boatrncR. C9on to the entrance of the whirlpool,
httle bonis raw aloiifpiidt' tho Urger veateb, witli pictuTM of uuntA, wludi
tber o6Eer for lalc nc amulets, but our reprobate atcauvr sliot put tlium
viih the npred of au arrow, and iircvciilcd tJic |>oor poop]c Iroia ler^iu^ s
sniall tribute upon tlic luetj or fear of the peMengprs.

Ovfmit t)iv roclu of Worth auother ataat *lio<ito boldly into the wateTt
beaniig on ita ftcnt brow tJio ruini of the old auHv nf WerJviutcui. Here
it ■• nid, Roman dost mtnglM with the Gfrmian of lli« middle Rj^eK. TIm
dfewhere brond DanuW i« h«re pres^ within such narrow litnttd, liukt a
bold Tell niij^lit nltnit-it htipi! by a daring leofi to T«u:h Worth.

Th« rocks '>f NVrrfcrxU^in jtiiu thr atitxig walls and abrupt preoipic^R, of
whi«h thev aiv oiilv n tiiinll part, fnmiitif; a dark piaui of about hidf n nitln.
In the midat of tins Tiatcry ravine, which must not he supposed to lie tw
narrow, the stream doabee along with uncoiitrotled violrncc. Komo of
these roek* have particular naioea, aa the " bouse stone," the " hare's ear,"
&C-, and olh«n u« erowaod with Tuioi, among others ^th those of the
rnntlea of Stniden and Sarmin^tcin. For above tho rrom of tliv rock of
'^Vl)^h, towers tlie chunji of St. Nicholas. tli« {mtron saint of the eailora.
At the foot of this church, in the market town of the same Dame, is a.
IWa i i i tal Eoiinded in tlic yrur 1 144, for the relief of miGtcras, of whom the
Vlld waters llicn fiimished, probably a grvatcr number than in thcw days.

The beniitiful and roinantio, the singular, thp picturB8aui>, aiid th« in-
eomparalilc ia this port nf tlie Danube, are eo abundant, that it ia almoet
aa difficult to te«r onewlf from the devcriptioii a^i from tlie ooii temptation,
dMmg-h wo are apt to rvgrct at>«rward«, tiio nimiy itanit tliat havit Ituea
•Met tu a vain ende«Tour to giiv aii idea of the iceuc. A liitio l»>low
WeTTetiMviii, tht- rfwMJ Struck against a rock ; 1 know not whether from
a cbuigo in tlte direction of th« Dum«ioiM currents in the " Strudel,"* or
frnm purs awkvrardncM or careletamM of tJio aUertmaD, or unroaaage-
aUeoeea of tlie \-es9el ; I tlioi^ht at first, whtn I saw the bowvpril od-
vmacing nearer and nearer, tlial it was done in the most perfect security
•ad boldiMM of dftsign, and obcervod to an Eiigliidinian who was stauding
near me, " Sec bow Httlo danfrer the once so formidable Strudel has fur
our sidIM and experienced nariKBtors, and with what precUion (liey steer
in the very face of tlie roek." Scarcdy were the words out of my uKiutli,
when lb* tosscI struck af>ainft that wr)- rock, and a regular panic sbowod
itH-lf in the white faces and bloo lips of tlic nunitiroua passengen. The

* Tti.ii Kiirh cliauirc-i laki- iihn'. U ix^oiid a dutibt; at ctery risin; of the tidtv
thor&icrabavGadilTcn'iit moliuiiun tlic laatuK.

■

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- -■: : •V-.at.

- ■ ■ " - --'.iiz :be

.... ---.-Trtl

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. ... -■ ■.-■*..■':. a::i :.::-,^ ..jj-
■ -: 'vnthiL-. "Sttfi.iii-n
, ^. . • ^ ■ ^' tirsi fri;-lit was over.

. ■ ■• t ; o'lipU'. iu the hurry

. ■ ■. ■."iiii'jt j.air. moi-o iTJib-

. ■." '.?■■-■-"■ ;"ir*ui' iheirwlJrliiig

, . , ' 1 ' 1 -■■ '.-'Ukw.-.rili ihn->;i^h the

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,,■ i.iMi'i;' ■iii>: li'.'ii.j-i ,.; ;;^> 1- ■:■,.;■ -:;v ;',r*

THE PICTCBE-OALLEBY BETT^EEN UNZ AND VIEXXA. 117

RXM t)>e RtMiner. It follows, Uteri, that it would be better to ^ive up
(iMcription of Auy kintl, md iMve off mftkinft books unA to it would ; vtcn
it not tlutt ihr rejulcr bu his own (iiDcics rspcricnccj, ivi-allcclioiLs nod
w»li» with wliich he supplies all onusions. If the «mlior tjn-aki of a
CAstIc cTowniuf; the braw ot & rock, ho ia not ntisfied, becHuw; he compare!
the oiPB^TVuns of llw uxprcsftion with tlie tiiuif^ that a»Miiorr hriiiga bif
fore hn eyt ; but the reader doea utit hi.T'd it; ut H^ese nords he builds s
outle for himself, and, nerhap*, a much tinvr one than th(^ rvnlity- And
it U tb« laiiu! ihin^ with a picture of an u^i^ieonble eiix-U or Txirty, ch«
reiu)«T feels all that thp aiitlior jn^s or does not mi)', and recilWtioii* or
nislics «tip|ily i)iv wanUi of Uie twit.

\V« «at in tlw glem of our imtirin^ ttcnmer, nnd s?aW paused th« ^Uss
of social coavenc. Lomlon, Paria, and Vienna, had each its deputies in
our eircle ; but Yieiina, niid 1 thanked lieavcit tlberefore, had tlie gmMtt
nutnbcr. Th« lirft dcputj iras n youtii^ actn-u, one of th« tnort ditlia-
pu^lied of tliL- Bur^ theatre. She was ix-tuniiDf;- fn^uk a ptofesioafU tnur,
and related, with much talent and Tivacitj'. some of her exj>erienee of life
both before awd behind the curtain. In her joy at Siidiuji^ horwlf one*
more in her fiur Aurtno, ihc ticyn fftilnl to com-ct my false pronundatioa
(according to Auslrian rules) of the unmet of the various places vro passed,
*' Not Miu-bnch, Moaba i ^ tli« name of that pretty tillage we hm e jiut
paaed ; you must not say Neottadt, but Xeistadcl, aud when you widi
me joy o» being at home again, jou ahould not pmnouucc the word Ad-
Moth, we rail it koamat." A* the mhi miia then xhiiiin^ vi>nf brightly, I
off«ir«d h«r my Austrian lamprtlf, or timliTvIln, and asLrd lier if cite could
protect beraelf with that, using the Auatiian word protekitrn. This sb«
found (]uite "delizint," and laughed excessively. " fkUzios" is a vei;
(aTourite word uith tlie Auitrianii j and whero we lay I laughed (dti (aehia
ich), they »ay tin Inn ich lac fiend pcwordcn. lliu lost exprotwuii plcotqi
niu estrcmclv, niid is, ecrtainly. with luany other Austrian phrases <^ tvhe
of tlw middle a^^ 1 have no inaiiiier of doubt that Gotx Von Uer-
licJiingea and hu comrade* expre^aed tbemselres just *o — " Ich bin taekead
gtwordea."

Next to ^liss Be — , I bad almost betrayed Iter iiuirie— sat a fair na-
tive of Vienna, with her husband and a chamiiiic: little daughter. She wna
jetumin^ fmni Ititly, whttre hur hunbiiiiil liiul tilled duuiv fxiat iti the Aus-
lrian senrice. Wa naturally siioke n great deid ot Uic fair land ■' whrru
the orsnge-trem Hoom," and the yomip mother expn'icsrd Imrylf on tho
•objoct with sreat animalioii. I fuund her, to my erent iMttinishio*iit, by
DO means inclined to d» justice Lo tlie beautiful »hc>re!i of ilie Danube. In
lihe Lini tbcatro ghe had ynwned over a ftnv imrtrayin^ fonio of the local
[abturditic* of Vienna, and which bad made irn- laugh till I crieil again.
She thou^fht it " all ejccssivciv tiiviul ; euch tiling so (idl of c<iuivo(.|Uv,
ttooffeusive to all morality, woiJd never have been pennilteJ in Itjy,
Lvhere in this reapivt, m iti many othi'W, people were iiicompiirably mora
delicate than in Uermoiiy." llcr liosbtuid was more rvvrrwd in his praiw
and blame than hts pretty wife. The little girl, n child al)uut four yuan
.old, was a perfect Italinn. Sbe spoke not a word of Gentian, Init danced
"ily about the deck, bc«au»c >he should «x»u be "in row nostra." Her
lier mid tlukt sho undentood Gennaii perfectly nvll, Init woidd n«i-er
k, and had a dmdeil aiertiion to iL 1 bo^^i hereupon in silence to
'^•^ myself, whether Austriana^-eres public oCEwn, who remainod a long

118 THE VrarnKE-GXLLEBT BETWECS hUSZ XXTt TIESXA.

time in Italy — all rvttirn«t1 sucit bod patriotx ? Did evan thit lietutiFn
Austria look sad afu.>r Italy ? Would th* many aiiil much vsuntod onjoy-^
nieuu it olTeradi be l<Mk«d on aa trilling and insisnificaat ? And u it
peculiar to Qemiati iwuaaaliiy la exchange 80 li;s:^lJ)' the mother-toiigue
fbr thv mnro iMtu^riil lulimo t <" do Itmlian childnfii, brought up in
Anatm, imbib* * nmikr profcmice for Gcnaan, and ditinclinstioa tw

itiiiEii;

A tiresome Vmdds dandy, wlio Mt •onwn'lurt aside from nt, mii^lad
iK>w and Own in the ronvcraation, but kept, for the most part, at sntno
diittaortr, and whiipcrvd to an elderly lady 9»iuclliiti^ myrtcrioiu abonfe
CouDtan Tliirrc«i, or tlie Princess Anna, or IIh* BaroncM Sopbla. and
aiade miudi tneaLioii of the IJohtonstein, the StarlwmbFTg. th« Kiirstea-
ftld, mA other neh universally-lniown pcraom, who, at^conlin;^ to cho
Vienna gjammar, are U> !>« namnl with tlie dpiinitt; article. (TUaU un
eommera^ ennaltli pnr /« gmnJs u«ms yii'oii prawm^it.

AmMi^ the English there was a oouiur, wli» had come froTn Eopland
to Lins iu bis days. I]« kept looking^ at a book front wbivh a friend was
deuiliiifr the reinarlcahle <jhjMt4 to he seen on the thorea of the Danube ;
and ihi'y both mod as diligently ax tf all tboe interatiiip; platmt had iMma
» h»nJn>d miles off, inctead of lyinff right under thoir no«es.

We had also an board a Mster and a ttorict; of the ucnly-cetahUafiod
order of the " German Sifters." Thii order was once uuitetl uitJi tliat oC
tlin ** Gemuin Brothem" in the eaM, for the tcadinff of itck kiii^hta, bufe
did not ioog remain then. Lately, in our ovrn time, when tliv Gothio
atyle of arcnitcctnre came into fashion Of^n, these anliquitic-s wrs aliO
peviTed. 1'bev looked rinj^ilar ciiougli. in their twelfth ccniur}' coattun%
amonc (Lvse V iviuui and Pariaiaa toitcta- What 1 thought mo«t i£m*
gr— able in the brood Bunlifftit was, lliat their course white linen wu not
only badly washed, but horribly marked by iho tUes into tlie barj^atl).
They told me that on the i6tJi of July in the pivwnt year, their firtt
hottpital iu Boieo had been erected, after tlie pufie'ii ncnnistiian had been
obtuu«<d ID the preceding May. They wore now on ilioirway to eataUUh
anotlier in Brunn, nnd to rceoive some noi« xlsters, for irhich iiiirpi^se they
muiplicabed the assistance of Sb Viuceiitius, the patroii-iniuL of tl)l^ir order.
The eUcr one told me she lud removeil to thin order from tiiat of the Grey
Sislen, of wham more were to ho admitted, thai the new order m^ht
profit by th<^r expeiieoee in the eare of the sick.

In tmth. no manuiiotli's tooth lies eo deeply horied la the dust of Bgei^
but our curious, prying age will fvrret it nut— no mummy lies liidilea m
ebwely in the depth* <^ the ]>yramid, but our aU-seeking cariosi^ will di^
it ini-y daylight— no nua is so snugly corored with the inautle of ancient
and modem timea, hut she will be dialed from oblirion* have new life
infused into her veint, and bo sent forth a wanderer among the ehildrea of
thi* j>reM'iit day. If it wore possiUo to give life to t)ie Egyptian mtuB'
mien, wc slioutd see them among us again.

I was just about to leave the front deck, wheu, among tlto crowd, I
obsened two binek figurte, who suggested to mc for the moment, that
ny last notion rc^wvtiu^ the mummies wns already in the course of fulfil-
ment. On inquiry, t learnt they were workmen &om the celebrated
iJumbago minei near Alarboeb, a tittle pidureMjne village we Itad just
left betund us. Ibcse mines hnre been worked from Trr>- ancient tintes ;
but of late they Emva aoquind new importance. The Engliili hare liiuiul

TOE riCTUSE-CUXEBT BETWEEN LIXZ AXD YIEN-^A. 119

that thit {dtimlHigQ u well adantcl tn fill titdr UaA-peneWs. wm) ibvy tiavfi, of
Ule, tmport«<) it in f)lcrahlj' Urj^(|UAnlitit.-^ Lnst. v«ar twA Uiotuuiilhun-
drcd- weight were tent to >]iig;taii(). Sinrr iliwi the jwople of Vienna hare bc-
Mownd BUttle Rion; tttviitioii on lite nvi»o^ nnditanw new ones hivn hetm
opmed within the la*! two yenn. A cnmnmr hu been fermcd in \^i>nn«
for tlie exportation of tKia artide. in which toe Rothsckitib bad a tharc ;
and ire had a youn^ S&xoa pn>resK>r on board, who hod riaitml the itunca
by the inritatiun oTtbaw gentlfitnon. It u roinarlcable ibnt the AtKtiiatis
do not latlirr DMiltc the cwncil* thenuelvct; but tlw English undontand
thcLie things bottrr, and lure bettor wood for thr purpow. 'I'lipy gvt tlw
material pulrprixed from Austria, carefully cransoUdate and enclnm it !□
cedar-wood, luid then «u]>ply oJl tlie artiats in the irorld. Th*ir own minM
become daily poorer, while those of Anstna incnsaatit ft! the rich material,
with which natnra h&f nbuitdaiiUy sopplii^d tliem, becomea lietter known.
Whilut the 8nxon nrofwscr was oblicinply exjilaintng nil ihU to iw, lh«
younL' Giiniuui Itiilinn took out hur r^nglifih blacklead- pencil and garu it
ne, that it mig'ht write lU own hixtory in my note-booh.

The ammgemcQts on board the Aoftrian iiteamon ore apparently as
good u those of the Rhine. To judge of the whole of a rcMel, requirei
s loitt' aajoaintance, as it <1oes to become well acquainted with a man {
bat the cnbina, &c^ lofk uetinng to be dcaircd. Thei'e were iqiarato nnei
■ppnpriatod to the nuofcer*, and abundant a«commoda(ion for die ladies.
Toe busineos of the en^neer, who had his own office, as the captain had,
wa« promptly exeeuted. and there "was less trouhlo with rexjwcl to tlte
baggage tlian in the RMne rtearaer). Any erne might ulco oat, or put
tDi an it plvaitrd liim ; a ticket being given, aiuwi-riuK to thfkt on the
package. Neither was there any fanlc to bu fnuiid nitJi the fare. It la
tnu>, tliat our menk w(>n> bo well seasooed by agrecabh) aoeie^', that >oni«
fiiultD in the cooltery mif^'ht well l»ve beeii torgiveo.

The lileraliire nf tlw Danube may now compare itself with that of tin
Rhine. I do not mean in tbo laigir neien^fk wnrkx, or tbo«« beloiigb|f
t« the Mftv-toVnv, but the local information, wh»cI^ at ovety place, in
riegant little pamphletai offi^ tli« necexury informatioQ to tlie tnretlcr.
Th« eogranngt and maps are not inferior to tlte lelter-pifM. Tlir whole
«oiUM of the Danube ia lo ftdly ami Kitijcfn«torily giren, that it may havq
nggested to many the oxpedteiicy of sparing themselves the cost of the
MfaM] jonruey altogetlier.

The Milon were German*, Tenctian*, and DalmBtlaiii. Many of tli«
COmsumdert of the Danube steameta arc Itnliant. Then i> a great deal
of oourtefy shown by these Tcaaeb. When they meet, a aolute is always
fired, while the buiy JUiine rteamttm paaa each other without notioe : indeed,
there arc to many of tbcae that there would l>e no end of the cnnnonading',
if tliey olwcnrod tho same prBctice. I noting, ai»\ tliat the ordinary
boatmen always took off their hats to each other. The Danube millcra
•lone, whoM ouge mills adrance far into the strMm, cIom^ to the channel.
Eve oa •oanewbat boatile terras with the wntennt-n. The hoatmcn are angiy
that the mills Munetimea niumw their chainicl, and the millcn maintaiQ
that " God did not make the Danube for the bnntmen alone," and assert
that, in •tnrms, thotr niilh are often injured. Whenever we pawed one of
theae milln, wliich the largs vavm we rsued wouM set in motion, wc Treie
£r«et«d with a jest or a grtmaca.

120 THE nCTCUC-OALLERV BETWEEN LIXZ ASD VIEinU.

or Givftt PfWihUrii 1 liad only a punng glance through tli* etlxn-
window, u Iioec topourout ftglMiof wiiiefbrMaileruo!MU«B. DoubdMS
Biibop Baturicb, o( KaxinUya, c\iiiiiintil it ii IUiIk iii»Te»ttentJ'>cly wben ha
rcceirccl thp ploCR oi a present tram Louis Lh«Gfriiiun, iiitlwjearS.1l. In
tpiU) of ita \ugli Kouiidiuj^ ajipellation, lh« pldce has i>nlv forty-firft honscs ;
DCTcrllivluM it ualU itwtlf a luwii, uiid ao old a oae, that it recbotu almott H
nwny conturin wit )ia« dw«11iug«. IFiidnrdLpnanieof Arelane, t)>c place
wna Iinami U* tliu Rncntuiv, and in (liv Nibrhttigrfilivd it it cnlloa liet-hclaivn.
Thane little paluy tawiis uu the Danube play a nxor« iniuortnut port at tlie
court of ihc River God, aud vaunt of naiiif* mun; widely spread than the
most important towtit in Oolicinia, whit^li ai« like }^-itt i^piiita And nu>ii of
uiark I'Mt i" tiut yaoyiaemt. Kvco the villagw nn tin? Danube consider
liu^tii^lvei arisCocnklic, and in fact ant so. Little I'tichlani, eitiialctl over
agniuni Great POchlarn. disputei with the latter ita claim to the Rotnaa
DAm« of .\rc-Upc, and to tlws epitlict praeclura bestowed on one of thmn
by tlio sunc peoplv.

At *vM-y liea]th we drank at our table d'hote we nuliiid hy on* or otlier
Drthe>>e old Danube cajtU-d ; first, pa^tle Weit«necli, then ca«ttr UiI)crG(!lc,
aud at Ia»t »oiue oae cried out, " therv ii Mulk, ^lulk, th« Bn««t al^lw^V in
all tW Uuiy Rinnan roniiw," and we nil nuhod up the caLin-staira to look
St it.

The heautiful tithvy of Slolk, or n^wr, to ipoak mor« correctly, the
magiiiSceiit palace and cailicdml of tliiii stately old episcopal ecali sita
proudly «!ntlin)iHtl U[M>tL lU ^rauitn foiindiitioii, the luLrcnie prumontory of
an arm of tho .\lpi, wlio*r pictarotquo eid^ dcclioA towardM the L>aQube.
Oa every side of the hill, a rivi-r pours iw water into a niig^bly »l«aiu ;
on the one the Molk. on tlie otJier the BUach, and tlieir nalleys lie iti mea-
dow- and arable land at thi.' foot of tint Innlly nbboy. 1 did not eco tliv iu«
t«rior. My intention wn» to have remained hen- one Jay, and to pursno my
jownicy in the xtcamboat tlic day folIoHing. Biit when we h.ivi- projiowd
to ourwlvcs to see tfie whcle, even so splendid au indlTidunt objiLXTt ii* Molk
ranisho^liko a point in the bewildering enjoyment. And then, hone*tly
E|)uaking, I fcU luiwiliin;^ In lea>e an agreeable viri^le in the eteomeTt
which 1 might not haie niet with nnciihor day. Tn short, I Allowed the
abbey to pass by, and retimini'd willt ilu: ^axin|tr majority, itkIciuI of join-
ing the minority, uoiuisiiu;; of a Bcucdictine canon, and a younj^ pcuMutt
vno got into & boat and left us here.

1 ttiotig'lit at first to earn gival praiw fnmi my fair tnvvellin;^ compa-
niona, wIiOji I told llu-m that I had rciuaJned on boai-d for tiu- pkii»ure ot
dinr company. Quitf tliu contrary. I heard uathiRg but rcpnuichea.
"Thvrawasa Uttl* laxlnetis iu the ctue," laid they; "people like to sit
still after dinner, and it ta pleaaantcr to rcmmn quietly here than to scram-
hle up and down hills and HCequ." 1 hid ray embnrrassineigt behind the
jnendly trhmd of my cig;Lr, but my reprover coatiiiued, " How, sir. yoii, an
sntliukiust for hiitoricjil rcuoUections, can puiui the nicut remarkablo point
OD ti« whol* Danube with »o much indiUcrcnce, to drink coAcl- auJ siiiokc
dgars! tl»s famous Namare of the Romans, tlnit miglity ^Tellitiuni, the
chief seat of the jiowerful Ilungamn priuee Gpi«a, tlie original n-uitli.'nce
of the renowned lUbenbcrg nilcn, and where still the moiiumeuts of thc^C
Ulnsttious lords arc to be scon ! the birthplace of Leopold, the patron
iftint of Austria?" " I esteem all these reeoUevtiona, niueli," said 1, " but

•

ESSX. 121

I can itidol^ them at Inut a.t Kf^nrvably ia j'oiir society M in tbnt of tbe
wvetviid ciuKiii tlm«; and aCtar alt, tlie living bre&tlung world is beyond
uty otiwr in aiy «atimAtion."

" Anil vrlint tlicrii U your mi^ity ^iii in this bmtthu^ vnM? A feiv
silly. wliJU'-flicrd, K""''!''"!? womw. ili:it i* ftH." »a«il the Amtrinii. " And
now list*!! to mt, I will irnd in you from my Gtiido wlint yoa hnve Irtst.
In tlie lint jiLu-i-. a luajniificvi^t cburvli Irvusurr. witli the coctlicst veat-
mviitM. Biiil H I'lulice iiixdc of gpM found iit t)i« sands af tlie DaiiulM>."

"Ay, my rti-tu- itvulain, these ii|)l«mlnurs at least I cuiinnt Ngict ; I
-would much lathcr ailmirv the vniamcnta you nrc now wcnrin^ on your
neck and fingen, than ail the jewels nkbot ever norc; and tliis fiiU glass
ia inaro to my taste tlian the «mi>tv chalice of Danube goW

"F>nlh«r;Ml» pictures of all the Aimrian nilers, painted by (irabner,
nod many rsccllcnt oil nnd frcMO potntiiic;* by tjcan^oni, Lticns of Leyden,
Schiiiiiagcl Quprfiut, and a crowd of tiiikiionu nmstors, who, na L-Tery body
knows, hare many more eharms than tho linoim ir>n«s."

" 1 have told you nlreotly tlii.i morning, llmt I hnve here ik picture-gal-
lefytlmt inlnvst^i mn far more tliaa all lliat Lurnit of Ijej-dvn, ur Scliln-
aagol of PtJditarn vvvr paiiitod."

" Th«D tiw collectiona of coins, of natural historj-, tlie im[>enal cliam
hers, and many other fine stranfrera' npaitmenta, in one of which, uo doubt,
you inij^t havf! lodf^ younel£ Whnt do you say to thai?"

" Am for tho ehambcr^ I have only to say, that they ore Kmily atlach«d
to the rock. A stationary impctioJ diombcr will not so easily nliure me
from a nionn^ oue."

" And last of all, listen now. A splendid libmry of twenty thousand
ToluiiUM : and busidea tb«M, wventeeii butidrvd rare titan ^scripts ajid incu-
u&butw: Now, «ir, do noc llif-se twenty thouKond volutnet fiill like twenty
Uinuutnd hnlKcattnilgi'ti, nnd these incuualiil» IJka to many boDiba on
your Jtliunbcriog coneci«ice?"

" A most ener^tic attack indeed ! But, unfortunately, I must confeas,
I have wandered unmoved through libraries that could reclcim liuiidreda of
thoujandi. Give me but the short qiiintMwneie of all tlwK bnoki in v^nr
society, and I will leave the seventeen hundred incuoabubc of Jdolk williuut
renorse, to sluuiber in their duMy cradlea."

The rcoitcT will, at all evenU, ha*e gathered Irom this conversation—
and it WHS wjxirtcd with that view^hi»w wtll n vi»it to tlie Abbey of Molk
would Ik: rewanl«.-d, and he will thi; sooner make it himself, if he do not
]ia|>pt>ii to come u[>oii it, as 1 did, white on a rapid journev to Ilniifpin-.

Ut^ltiw yioWi lie the ruins of Durrcnitetn, of all the castles of the Ilanuhe
the iiifut fajiHHl in son^. !>hnTtlv before it reaches this jtoiut, tlio river
makes a Middeti Itend, and a titilu further on, another, lo tluiL tJie castlti
pTMonta itaclf suddenly tlvonod on tli« frowning rock, and as it ia elosed
in behind o^un by rugged mountain walls, it looks isolated in its rocky
deMTt, although itandSng on the bank of the land-uniting stream. King
JRichard may nave fufTt'ivd nil th« niore dtuing his imprisonment here, for,
if hij apartment lay on tbo eastern lida, aluiouKh he niif^bt enjoy sork
distant view, it was a view into tbe heart of AusLrin, vrhivh he inual hare
detested, whereas, on the ud« towaida England, whither bis longbg wisbei
must hare tended mfut, tli<: prospect is most liniiied.

1 sliould like to know more precisely what wvrc the empJoymcnta of tho
fion-bearled king in this stem rocky nest ; how far lie was at liberty to go,

122 THE FICTUSE-GALLEBT BETWEEN LINZ AND TIEmrA.

who spoke with him, &n«l whether he leamt some words of Aostmn Ger-
Dwn? Without historical record I can easily belieTe the noble warrior to
liBve been kind and gracious to hb attendants, the servants of Hadmar dra
Khueoringer, and that in the moming when they brought him — not his
cofiee — but hia porridge, perhaps he would have answered their greeting
with a " Gruts di Gott SeppC

It ia a pity, however, that we cannot be sure of these things, and bow
thoughtless it was of Blondel not to keep a journal ; no doubt his royal
friend gave him an exact account of all that had happened when he was
once more at hberty. What a precious, what an inestimable book would
be " Blondel's Memoirs of the Fifteen Months' Imprisonment of Kine
Richard Cccur de Lion." How seldom it has happened that such a rovM
prey, a lion, bom for the most unbounded freedom, has fallen into such a
trnp. And how widely difiFiued is the story of this captivity, how for
nearly seven hundred years it has been related and re-re)ated by all
European and American grandfathers to all European and American
children! And yet, in how few words the whole tradition is contuned !
How much remains to be filled up by every narrator, according to his own
fashion ! Every one has his own image of Arehduke Leopold, the conning
wolf, of the valiant, unsuspicious Richard, the sufTering lion, and the gentle,
timefu) Blonde?, his futhful friend! The tradition, like every thing really
beautiful, is so fine and touching in all its parts, that in defiance of tha
scanty data, it will remain as long as the rocks remain that echo it. As
yet the story is in a measure new, and all the travellers thronged to the
side of the steamboat to look at the ruins of castle Durrenstein, as if it
related to some occurrence of recent date. The loophole, behind which
the king was said to have sat, was sought iat with glasses, and the broken
column and wall of the knightly hall, where the hero n-olked with Khnen-
ringer, and the ftngmeats of punting in the ruined chapel, the cellars
and the vaults. The castle will not last much longer; a couple of centuries
at the most. Fragments of the wall will then be sought for on the moun-
tain side, and the morsels will be enveloped in paper, on which may be
inscribed, "a stone from the former castle of Durrenstein, where King
Richard the Lion Heart was imprisoned," &c. And then the stone may
vanish, and some thousands of years afterwards, perhaps, the vacant plaro
may be pointed out, and strange tongues may speak of an un authenticated
story of some imprisoned king, in whom fewer and fewer persons are in-
terested ; until at last the lion-hearted king will be confounded with a real
lion, and the story may run thus : — " In times of remote antiquity, when
the people called Germans still inhabited this country, the last Uon was
caught in the wildeiTiess, but afterwards escaped," &c. By the time Africa
is cleared of its lions such a version of the story is by no means improbable.

As we passed Durrenstein, one of the Germans began to hum the ur :

" Richard, O mon roi,
L'imlvers t'abandonne."

I remarked that the words were strikingly correct, for the castle looks so
solitary, that Richard must have really felt as if forsaken by all the world.
"Yes," said the singer, "his spirit must have sufFwed the tortures of an
impaled criminal, and that for fifteen months long! It ia fearful, and al-
most moves me to tears." In fact the locality so seizes upon the imagination,
that even I, thou^ by -do means sentimental, (the reader will permit this

«4AfiM^on,) felt bcerUin cntopin^ »*n*Ation cnmine over me. Strange !
Hod ve not all beard tbis atory a faundn^ Umes oeforo, read of !;, «m1
related it agaiii irithout any pamcular emotioo ; U not the wliole nn ide^
aa iinoj^atkm ! What vm it thoo thftt to powpriuU}* oflectcd un in pusitig
the place itself?

1 used iunnerly, when I heard tli« rtory of Richard's imprisonment, to
feel mortified that it sho*Jd be a (^rman prince who played the ij^noblo
parti mad now it souadi^ atrangc]^ vtioui^h tu livar a GmiLaa Hiu^n^ in
iJie Frencb laiwuge iht praises of an Kiigliilt Vmg ; but I might almnct
Bkj. I was ehoelced to hnir an En^lijliruaii, nf w-honi I incpiiiwT the next
Tcne of the kk^. answer drily, u he settled hjs cntvat, " J< n'ai pat
ritifvmii detoute cHlr rAosr."

Behind DiuTenBtvin, as we round tliocnmvr Inwards Mnutfrn, is the last
iiDo ni«tur«in thia unequalled gallery, throng'h which wo had beeitrunniufrt
B ^aUery so iin'xhnuatiUe in beautiea, that the hundred eyi-a of Argui would
be wanted to ditcxrur tliein all Mauteru. sitd the opjxiiilH Tillagi> of
Steiu, form a hmdwape in tlio ii(y1« of Claudo Lnrmine, and SMm placed
bcrc purpowly to soothe the troubled spirit after the wild and Aaragv Dur-
reniletn. T(t the right and left lie the pretty Utile town* of S'triii, Mmitvrn,
and KreiiiH, nil nlnc^j; tiling in the Nibelungenlied, and heraeolteetKd in ilio
|>n>j)yiicum of tne Danube temple. The rirrr is crpsfcd here by a bridj^
of unats. the fine between this place and Linz ; both the bridge snd tna
town are interailinf^ objecta tiom their geographical position on the boun-
doFf, between the mountain territory of the Danube and its piMU. la
tli« foreground, from the window of a hutise ndrancing Hom nprni tho
river, two monks wi>re looking oat on the uncjtiiet rteambost ; a teiraoe^
bdonipn^ to the house nrojeeting OT«r the rtresm, was 6Ued with flowers.
In the hack^Toniid <>f tlie picture, on a rock seven hundred feet in height,
risca a stately edifice thr Atibcv of Ciottweiti, iW thinl in rank of the ec*
clesiaitical foundatioiis on tlu> DHnubo. It i.i»Ti.*n t)ii< whole ti>lerabty limad
haek of tJi« mountain, wbieb stands in on extensive and beautiful plain.
The hills rising at the nde« of the little towni, arv crowned witli vinevatds ;
and vej«e]c ani iuciviii;j; tiuckwiirds and forwardii nii ihv winding nver ill
front. What follows ia coniparatirely insignificant and uninteresting,
jiortly from negligence, as I cannot bub think, that with proper trealineut
■od some pains, all theiw bnuMosarablo water-meadowt, iiioraMni, and
mstcs, might be changed into nlenang pictur^o, were they only in titp st^'lo
of the rich morth lands of Holland, dammed up by dykes, and spotted
witli a few comfortable Irauscs, and some well-fira enttle. But instead of
that, these water-mradows tin bore and desolate amAng tho many arms of
the Datiuhc, pmcnting a most miplca«ng contrast to thoec bctorv nes*
tiooed bctwcm the hills.

Tho henutTful Ahb^ of Gottwcih, which dn^w many a sigli from tlw
nrisnnen in the atswnboat, oUme rcmwncd long visible, a last consolotioB
for all we had lost. Beyond the willnwgruwn meadows and iolandi of
Bollwnburg, wo still caught sight of its distant buildings, till at Inst they
vanitlMd like a elond in the gi^y horison. Then, wf^rid oat with the
OTJoyment of the ilar, we coiitd rmiiie on the elegant dironsof llie Arch-
duke Stvphen, and li«u>n to him who rvlattd thn pleasing story of tba
foui>didii>n of Gotlweih. It is thoa r^Utcd by Bishop Altmann, of riiuwil,
who lived in the elcreoth oeutuiy.

THE riCTL'BE-OAI.LERT BETWEEN LINZ A>TJ VTESSA.

*' In my ynuUit vrlieo I yit.* Mill n tmrulliii}; Rtudvnt, >uii) wliui the dc
ceased majesu*. tlie pm^x^ror Cunnd rulxl, I came into tlte oKut rotnota
port of my new diocete, thp ronntty that we Germani took from tiie Uum
luid Aran.*^ under our eaip«ror Cbarlenia)^«, »( blessed metuory. I wu
tn coinjiHiiv ^*it)i loy ■}'*'>■' 1'r"t'>*'i^ Biid friuiidi Adnllirrt, lituhup of H'ltn*
biiT^, »itd 'Gpbliftnit, bt«fau» of Saltxburg. Tlivv vrvn lli«ii, lilco mviicir,
tniix-Uitig si^olan. W« tbrM pUMd tmny a cnr«rful xad {>iotis (tolid&y
together ; hat U tiniu wo sliorvd nothing but lalxMir, aiid waut, aiul
troublv ; yttt w« went oa our way diligviitJY. prarrd uiil nan^, ttiidicc),
atid K<TO follftwfrw of UimI'ji •Kcrd. In tJuit land, t)n>n, w*- catnt! onof on a
higli hill, ill tlic mi^Ut uf fruitful plaiua, but »ar little Inbotirrd in, eiLticr in
A flptritoal or moy other wn^, on (tic banks p( llic broad Dauube : and ii'c
JKK» •dholnrs sat oupjcKm down and looked npoii the PDiiiitr^' round nbnut.
As «-c tlin.-e j>oor uiid iiigif^iliciinl ))coplc »t there od the ■unuiiit uf tJic
hiU. iu ttic muLtt of fnx* uultirc, tbt-rc cami- upou uf all tbrc« a ^vbtrmenC
wish to bo stroniger and more proGtable sertrauti of God. We prayed to
him that b« would give \u It^hcr placv in hi^ ««mc-v, aiid mnd« a iK>nipa«t>
encli daspiue the othw^a hiuitl, llmt lu ull tlic rood'* aiid bywoyi of lifr,
that we trod in tht> name of God, tn> would lattJifully atand by and help
one aiiotbor, and that wp would noith«r halt nor rett, till «a<-h li^d th«
bUbop's CTOuer iu hii liand. aud a flock U> piuitiira in thn iinnie of the
Lard. Well! w^ hinv k<>pt our bond truly, and our llin>ci l>i«]iopricK bur*
dcr on orio anot)i<>r. And I, for mine own behoof, matlf n vnvr on that
mountUD, that if I b«cauie the bisltop of PaMau I would build a monas-
tenr on tliat same mntuitniu, tlint the eiiliivation of the land and nf the
■ouu of (he dweller* mtj^ht be adtancod ilit^reby- I am now lil«hoji of
ttMMa, and the convout by the Danube boa ooea long roofed in, a&d
named by mc. Gottni^li, because I have dedicated it to tlie I.ord and Crea-
tor of tlie world. And lliere my coffin Li already nailed ti>f^ther, and my
vault built, for I would lain be buried in the place of my fur^t yi^uthful
recollections." Here tnay bo addixJ, that lliis wiuh alio was fuliilled, and
the traveller may yet stand aud cotiteinplate llie grava of tlie poor scholar,
Altinann.

The word meadow (Au) liai in German a pnrtictdarly frimdly !>ound.
TiiP poet of^en makes use of it, and seldom wiiliout a loving' predicate—
tlie " chamunjf," Uic "lored," or " lovely" meadown. lint w» have only
to f;o from St«in to Vienna to b« heartily tick of tlio name and tbc thing'.
I Mw- OH tills passn;^ so many unlovely meadows, that I have tliK word
regularly rw dcjiil, and was not a little rejoiced when we atmi- iu sight of
Leopo^d't mountain, and Kalilenberg, and when wo pnsunl Klosterueu-
herp, and heard at Nu»dorf, " Halt — 8t;»p tJie on;rine." Nuasdorf U
tile iiarbour of Vienna: ic lic^s at the moutli of that arm of the Danube
that branches off here, aud tlowe throu^^li the imperial city. Here the
greater number of the vcmoU navigatiui; that rit-cr, land titeir pa»onget^
and hi-Tf, in cniincqui'iic^, is a ncver-eiicUng turmoil and confnsioii of boat^
men, and coiiveyanct-s, to ^ne(lunter wbioli, one has to arm nneself be-
fnrrhand with tmlience and vatehfulnoss, in order not to be ingulfed in
a vortex alike dangerous to parse, per&on, and baggage.

LOWER AUSTKIA. .

TIENSA, OR nETSCn.

Ann in thii tnsancr rrc rracliod tho p«at city of BeUclt, » name highly
valued iJirouffUout tht cast, ttiougli vroiiderftillv liltlit known m Kuif>|M.*.

Tho dty of JioWcli hai four DundnHl thttunand inhnbit*nt«, and is tha
resideace of a ptmvit'ul Siiuh, v-lio rules a land nioro extensive than Be-
loochiKtan and A%h»wijta», called N^cuintiuin. Tliii land of Nyeoues*
tan coDtaJQS a numbt-r of kingdoms and pnocii>a)ities, over all of wfatoli
iitv aboTc-nanied Shah ifl tna4t«T and l(»d. Tht- j{r««t«at of tlied« subor-
dinate kin>^unM ts Trandebng-, Ij-in? tovranis the north. Its inhahitants,
the Trancl(<bogiaii:i, amount, in oiiiiibor, to niilhoiis.

The laneuago opnlcftn in Dot«ch u a very singular mixture. It neither
nacnablcd the Turkish nor the I'enian, but ii aaid to have some adinity Co
Gvnnan.

The Turks, the Hungarians, and nil tho nationi* beyond, far into Asia,
call that Befatult which wc climtvn Vienna, and ei^iify by Nyemmtau,
t}»- whole nf our German fatlicrlond, of whirh they suppoisc hia iii^ptty
of AuHtria to be •overeigii lord. It iit tnu>, that the euipumr Fmnei« ro-
noiinced tHis title, anil tho g^^y "( the (it^inttn cMptrti Itn^ Innj; «ineo
paowd away ; hnt it is long before the settinff of a «tar is ohservcd iu dis-
tant n>gii>n«, as iti rnya. onc« tnuumitced, still cnnjitro np its im^e before
US. Brandenburg u corrupted by the Turk* into FmndciMg. lietsch or
Vienna \s, to thoin, next to Trieste, tbe moat distin^ished place of tmfEo
in Germany.

Two great water-roads connect Germany with the east : tlic Adriatio 'i
8ca and the Danube. At the bend of thv onv lies Trieate, and of the other |
Vienna ; and iram tliese ta-o placet brandies out tliv whole commerce of
the eaAt to the interior "f Germany, a^ it develops ttwlf from CoojiULnti-
aoplo tu Trcl^Qnd and Smyrna. Vienna is tbc last weatorly point before
whieh a Hostile Turkisli anny encampcdt and llie most weatcm seat of sa
eastei-n comniereinl colony or factory.

The \ir»\i\v who arc tile RTent ag«ait« of this commeneo, throu^b their i
own trade ami dic^r river navij^cioii, *n the Serviana— tho Itasctans, aa
they are called in Vienna and Uuiiganr. I could never discover, eitlier
front books «x verbal iuquiry, whence this ap{>cUation fiw the Servians was

126 TIENMA.,

derired.* la Hungari&n Latin, they are called Rssci, their counby '
Baacio, and the King of Hungary is entitled " Rex RasoK."

The Rascians have their colonies in Pesth, Vienna, and other cities OD
the Danube, where they are mingled with the other inhabitants, as the A^
menians, Buchanans, and Greeks, are in southern and western Russia, and
as the Jews are in other countries ; and are the principal masters of \'eS8eb
on the middle and lower Danube. They are to oe met with their wires ia
all the public places in Vienna, habited m a strange mixture of European
and Oriental costume. After the Rascians, the Turco-Spanish Jews play tim
principal part in the commercial world of Vienna. Tim remarkable branch
of a remarkable nation, was scattered over the whole Turkbh empire after
ihe most catholic kings of Spain had driven them from their dominiong.
They have commercial establishments in all the Turkish states of Africa and
in Asia ; and, as agents between the east and west, they have also fixed
themselves at Vienna, where their houses are very considerable. Like the
Servians, though in fewer numbers, they have extended their branches as
far as Pesth, Semlin, Belgrade, and are more en>ecially important in the
relations of the Danube countries with Thessalomca.

These Spanish or Turkish Jews have adopted the eastern costume, pro-
hably because it was a tine qua non of their admisuon into the Turkish
donuniona, but they retain the Spanish language. Thev converse and
correspond with ea<»i other &om Bdgrade to Salonica, and from Neusatz
to Vienna in Spanish ; probably it is found convenient here as a langoaga
TOj little known. They enjoy many privileges in Vienna, among others,
that of being reckoned Turkish subjects, although established in Austiia,
and are consequently, under the protection of the Turkish ambassador, aa
independent of the native authorities as the Franks are under that of their
oonsuU in the Turicish dominions.

Besides the above-named foreigners, there are many Greek and Armenian
merchants settled in Vienna. The principal banker, Sina, is & Greek. '
Since the late improvements in the navigation of the Danube, which have
made it possible to travel from Vienna to Trebisond within fourteen days,
and to reach the interior of Persia in three weeks, traders from Asia Minor,
and the Persian pointed c^w, have made their appearance in the nei^-
bonrhood of St Stephen's church, but they are only visitors in the city, and
not residents.

The whole number of Orientals in Vienna, is generally reckoned at i
about a thousand souls. In what degree their numbers have increased
with the still increasing intercourse with the east, I learnt in the office of
the Vienna Foreign Police, where I had an opportunity of looking at the
roister of foreign residents. From 1822 to 1831 (in nine years), alarge
folio volume had been filled with the names and residences of Turkish
BubjectA ; from 1831 to 1836 (that is in five years), another as large, and
in the following four years, a third was filled.

The rcgist«r for the year 1840, g^ves the numbers of Turkish subjects
trading en gro*, whose firms are established in Vienna.

1st. Of the Greek reli^on (the fewest of these being of the Greek
nation) fifty -two.

2dly. Israelite Turkish merchants (the greater number bearing Spanish

* There u a small river in Servia bearing a similar name, &om wliich it maj be
dsived.

TIMT TO ST. STEPHEN'S TOWXR.

127

funily names, as Soow^c^ Mi^o, Abcuen, Beotuio, Hajor, Sobetay, tkc),
ftirt J -t-iiflit.

And 3(ily. Aimouui utt«baat*, qiMl

The mvter part of iJmwc oficnul inhaliatanU Grc io Uic nciglibourbood I
of the olid mest marliet Thpiv U>oy ara to be mot tritli, uigtave as atork^
■lovrly paciiif^ tbroux'i the biutle of a EtinM>e«n street, or, reeliiiinj^ ou tbo
liwidvoinu rvil cuJumu wiih \fhaidi tltv vriudows of a Viliaoa linuac are
generaDr provided, tlxT nuiy bo te*!! 1oal:mg tluwu upon the titnnoil, aad
tratiqiiiUy smolcin^. Hi-ro also arv tlie two (.■of!'e»-boiiBra most frequeotdcl
by tl)i;ni, tlio "Grcciau," and tlui "City of LondoD." In tbe fint, thvrc
is ft conittaiit iufliii. and efliu. of easteni mercfaants, mingled with Gre«k^
Jeirg, And Italian*. T1m> NOood, boa been Hpecially HiwetMd m thfl soene
of iheir sonal aniu««mctits, — ctDnkuti;^ aiMi mltiiij* *tii!, — by the youo^
Tuiliuh Students and the (iffic«ra oi' llie Porte, whti of lite have b«:ii ac-
eiuloiii«d to make the ntlgriiiinge from t!ie Beaphona to the nuil of ait
and «nli)^eninent on tiif liaulu iif tht Danube. They k-ara GvrrnRa of
COUI9C, atid their pranunciatioa accnicd tu mt ut (general soft, harmonious,
aud agreeable. It sounded, faoverer. comical enough to liear these
foreienen take all imaginable paiu^ to acquire the Austrian prorincinlismf,
whtcu they most cotufdvDtiotuJy aouf^ht to iuilate. '

Surprise has be«n eiprewed (and witli ivawni). tlmt lliose of the Vienna
eoffce-noiue keepers who eal) their artahliebmenta oriental, take >o littlo
trouble to fumiah them iu tho eostem taste. They have not »o mudi as
the bmnd dirau alwap found in TurhLJi roflee-hauw*. Now, when wu
bethink onndvM, tow muvh eTcii ve Mtufitel Fraiika valoe a eomfbrtable
teal, of which many of our provfrhial «xpr««*ir>ns offer a ptwof, as " siltinr
in (J over," "sitting upon llionu," &e.i when kq reflect that even with
our iiiconveiuent ntting nuchinei, it is so euy to nocurtom onsMlf toon*
kind, tlut another bKoroea disafjrveablc, ( 1 know a Gcnnan lady, who
told mc. that b«ng usod to tittiD^ on cane ehajir, «lie oould not endure
cushioned ones, whereby I suppressed, iiut Bttherigfitii[ne.aplu)oiiop)iieal
TViUBik that eame into my head, vii., that eertfliu v*Ty distant p:ulji of our
physical orj^auixation niiut be capiiblc of cotitnictiiig- habits, wIucIl. nben
oppuscd, excited disagnmildc seiuatiun*,) when we consider these tilings, I
My. we cannot feel otherwise than great earn iiossion for tbe poor orientals
in Metioa, mounted on our narrow, long-le|;i;;cd, niwteody, tittin]^ accom-
modationx, their hearts a prey to hoine-Aivkne^ and tlu-ir le|^, tbe ono
tucked under them aftur tbe f»hii>n of Otvir fatherland, while in foroiken
Wotfaei dangles aohtaiy and stick •hke in cold empty space '.

VISIT TO ST. STEPHEN 8 TOWBtt.

3Iy best friend in Vienna was named Stephen, and when I Iieard he i
had becomo n widower lately, 1 went to pay hita my vifiC of eondolraee>
At linl I did nut rcry vrell uodentaiid th« cspreMion " become a widower,*
aa, to the best of my kDOwledgt% my frimd Sic[>)>eti. who vr&s above four
hundred feet high, umI fire hundred years oU (being ao othor tfaan tba re-
nowned rteeple dedicated to the abovenanied taint) had never heeo married,
•Idiough he lud matiT hruthen, as the double steeple in Rheima, the aster
steeples ill Muiiidh, Luliock, and ntbttr places. I asknl, tberofure^ with
eome Ntson, " bow be could hare become u widow«r," and was answered

IfiS

TO BT. STf

TOWKH.

hn« p1uj«d the Imto «nd Uw ttnfiMy polite, to relseTO tiim

his froM," So tnii was a piece of Vi«ntui wit, which will tu>t he Utkeo
anus bv aiiv tu&rried lodv in the world, I thiuk, for ihe coniiiliin«nt iiu[»lictl
i»f»t gn-xivt Hisin the diiicoiirlefv at &ni apiiarent. If it tw iiiaiiitaintd
that fwvry married lunii hfum hia wifo eiiiiintiiod in hnDour fue xliove
hinuclf, na Stvplicn'a Tower Iwrv hia croo», it oiiut be admjiud Uint the
matrimnniol burden cannot hut be a light one to so great and portly a
geutlnntan. This crots was aim united with a double eagla, ^ptfm^ng iu i
iordlv pinion* cv«t the Tower, even m married ladici •omcliines extend *
anotncr iirctty little iitrtrunH-uC untlioritntivdv over the heads of chmr
veddod lords, or weddml lurvants as iiwy should rather be called.

Stephen, AS he is sometiinee laconical^ atylcd in \'ienua, is in j^neral i
fiuuccl t>y tlw piniona of more peaceful uirda, or by the l)unnlcs», tliouf^h,
from itt gnat hmg;ht, tometiiiie* outrageoui god of wind; but nearly
every hundred yun tliiit tower has had visitors of another deisorip-
tiou, lowering, hl&cl, bsrd -headed fellows, who care tittle liow
they rulHed his carefully arrnuged toilet. Between the difFcri'iit bom-
builments, which Vienna mid SL Stepheu'it Tower, in jmrljcuhu-, Imvu
nifi«red from tho llung«nftiii, Turks, — a Mcond time fram the Turks,
•nd lastly fcom the Fitiich; exactly 8 hundred years haie eath tiine
eUpsed. SiiiiCfi the taut shooting iimtcb, forty years haie nearly flown away;
fram what dir««tion the lw»mb* of 1907 or 1909 are to whittle, it i« not
diliicult to guess ; (or every tmvcllvr who mits Austria must ask himself
trhy ail the tvindows sjid loopholes, looking to the north-cast, nn> not a little
better fastened up. Ferhapa Stephen may weather the bombardment of 1 907,
and, perhaps, a sixth or a Hcvonlli, but at last his courage may aiuk under
these repeated attacks, till one day the r)ld, criMy, usclutts Stephun, out of
regnrd to tlie heads of the worthy citizens, will ht> ordered to be removed
altogBlher. God be thanked, the hands by which, and the heads for whodw
sake thi^ will hare to 1h' doiit-, lie Htill in the darknesa of the future. At •
present the givxl [>e<iple nf Viimna are buHied in removing tlit' old woni> \
out bonf«, and «ul»titut.iiig new rtncj. 1 exnmiiiod tlin work closoly. The .
pertiiitiiion is obtuncd in tho office of the thurch -niostor, where a printed |
plis-<p'>rt for this little Journey to the clouds is issued.

1'he oh ureh- master's office has its seat in the neighbourhnod, aiid in in
iteolf a litllfl curiowty, fur it is u questimi whether any (rtlwr cathedral can
boast so numerous » mMrt, The vciierablr iStcplicn briiiKu his middle age
ciiatomit and iMagtv iiitn niodt'ni titntfs, mid has hi* iivni peculiar sources of
reruimi% which iiri> tis difficult to Administer, as the Gothic c&prioes of build-
ing are to bi-ing within aiehicM^tunJ ru]t\->. The stt-callcil giant door, one
of lis live entrances, al>onnd!iig in idl kiinlit of invxplicftblc dpcuntlions, is
never opened on ordinary iweiwiuiis, utid secins to be ijHite rusty for want
of use. It co»I« a considcmblo sum when, nt the desire of some relative
of an illustrious deceased, this diior opens to admit the corae. The iiu*
merous death-bells hare tlieir difi'erejit prit^-n, and if it Ik- dfj^in^d that
•' Stephen" shall set his whole concert of bc!!« in motion in honnur of the
departed, uo iDcon!iid(.iubK- ('a]?itul niuat be expended. There are not less
than twenty-one pereoiis eniidoycd in the church- master's office : a. chnrrh
provost, a conirollor, four secretaries, a sexton, two upper vergcpt, twn Uiwcr
verger*, four a»iatB4it ytrevn, fi>ur >riudt>», tw^o reckonws. It must be ob-
served tliat tliese form oitlv one hram-h of tlie cathedral authorities, its
poliL'o as it were. The catnedral dignitnriet ore many more, and tliea

VISIT TO ST. STEPinjK'fi TOWEB.

there tre tho fcmtilc aU«adttaU or bouwaiuda, to say nothing of the
watcltinen oa tlie Coircr, Sec

fiol far from the door, tbrotigli which you ascend llw toircr, ninunjf the
mnny mcmumBntt on ihc wnlU, thtre i* onr old stouc with ttiis iii«cripiioa,
" fortitcr DC BUttvit*r." I traiiilatej iheso words for chebeiieiilof a pretty
little Sertisn, nho, witli a train of bri>then and klndrei], wu ptoparing to
luocntl along witli top, anil wo took iheno worrU iw a Ttnttnim on o«r wbj-.
Till- yonuj; Orivutal had tlic snnic dvtvstab!? hmd-dniaa as the r^t of her
country- women in \'i(.n)t)ii,— n uloth, lioiiiiil Sitt notl li^httv round her head,
witli a bouquet of flaring Rnwen^ like tlic fL'atlier in a soldier'i iihaku. Slio
wa3 >i,TV |)retty, honx-vei', iu »i>it« of lier livikd-f^'cai'.

Hi. Sicphtti* Tiiwcr is iiiluJjiti.vl from tup (o bottom by very different
kinds of nii>n and onimaJit. At the liottcnu, *trai]g«ri are under the |^d-
ane* of two young eccltsiiwtic*. Furlher up, U far as tho roof, tJtf cburcb
B^nniits hc-or sway; wo then cuter the territory' of tliv bcll-rinji^ors, and at
thn wry top of tit* tow«r vnitcltinen ketip wucch and ward. All, according
to th«ir own foehion, do the honours of tho plaoe, and ]&vy a coiitiibutiou
on tra^'etJers. On all eidee one u called upon to look and admire; here is
the hole through which, some y«tu% ago, a itiati, uvary of Iifu, dung his
lint down into Uio elitirch, and then fluni; hinwlf ut^r it — then* arc tlie
bclU, cast Ly order of tlic Einporor Jost-pli 1., from the captitred Turkish
cannon — here ii the great crescent, wliicn tlie Vienna people fanteued to
their tower to induct- the Turks to ^pare the aplendid editice — there ore the
twfiUc engines ajid thirty cintfrtiii fur the protection of the building ngniartt
fire. Ill March they are filled with water Ktrongiy impregiiaUd nitli »alt,
which is tlius preserved thmugbout the iiiinnier. Admirauon 'im also chal-
lenged for the grcAt ugly douote eagle lying with outspread pinions oti tlio
rooft probably the lorgeat figure of a bird in the world. If it could rbo
into thn air it might pas* for tfa« oflVpring of llie far^faiood rue ; from tlis
(<KtrvNitty ofoue wing to that of tho other tlie tneasuremtnit isouo buu(Ir«(l
and eighty feet. £^ach eye is formed of four gilded tiles, and «avh b«ak
contAiiui not less than tlurty such acaJes.

I'eoplc who Hit] fond of taking oxeeptions against nindvm times, may
find abuodauce of opportunity on the roof ef vm cntliedral. Iu IbSO it
was found necessary to remir a portion ; the new tiles were sliaptxl and
coloured af^r Uio mod«1 of the old : but after the lapiie of only tun yvtira
they are wrrn out. Th« glasing and colour a worn ntf the greater part,
the white glaze turning quite red, and diiiplayini; the nnlivc liuo of tho clay,
while the old tiles, the work of the middle -igei, retain atl their original
tints and fredincx*. It U fenred that the r«iof itself may auflVr from tho
badness of the tiling, and a renewal of tlir work U already talked of.

Nu l(ua than 700 steps must bo mountttl to rmcli the tower where (he
watchers hate their dwelling and place of abode. The nrraugeinenla mad*
for ascertaining the exact locality of a lire ftru very peculiar aud interMt-
ing. Un the parapets of the four windows, looking t-att, went, north, and
south, are four telescoiies. Each ghus <*'', as tliey c-idl the whole appara-
tus here, CTery " topowcop," ennimands a fourth of Uw whole cireulur «* of
bouMa, stretcmng on every nde of the cliurcli. Each cjuadrant u diriilcd,
by circles and radii into s»rtioDH, and by tho aid of the gla^u tlie sei^tion in
which the burning house Ilea is easily ascertained. The individual hnu«! is
duixivcrcd wi Ji tho aume owe. By every " topoakop" thcro Uea « thick book

130

VlfilT TO ST. STKPITEN's TOWIR.

emtniDin; ibe names of all tbe house nwocn iu eacli section : md thns
tlip linuM ran lie not only luoertained, but nained. ^Vlle^ the name ii
Ibund it i> wntt«ti on a dip «( pA]Mv, which ia enrloswl in & bws IaU.
This ball u tlirown down b pipe, and it ptuaei npidlvi like a wiagxHl inca>
Hittvr of evil tidings, dowu to tlie dwelling of the (vitiin, where it is picked
iqt fcy a watchmaa coniUDtly in attendauce tliere luid ramtid to the city
ADlhocities. Here it i* opened, aitd tlw name of th>e unfortunate bouse idww
known to those whom it may roaccm. In thn deacrifAioii, this optnlaoa
ufftmn aoRiewluit long, but it is psrfWnwl with tolemblu rapidity and
certainty, and th« " toposlop" can h» oapd sa w«ll by ni^hl as by day. In
the more nrmolr niirt.i f>f the iitbiirb, tli« poinl is of cniiree mora diffionlC
to uoertaiii, a* tw angles of vikiun ami podtioa become aniallrr in ths
** topoikop." Sufh an aprar«tiis ean only b« nwd with advant«|*t trtm
tow«ra MS lofly sa St. Stepncu's.

The length of the piece latterly removed from the towvr. IVodi appre-
Iwnsion of inaocurity, is abo^ elpvon Enthomi ; that is, lu the vholit tower
ooiitnina aboat sercnty-two fathoms m.'orly a lixth of th« nholc. Thb
nicv-ir hnil lon|r Kwavcd from tlie n)^)it line, in conMtjupDcc of en earth-*
Aunke, it was K«d, but at first with an inclination of only throe feet fnini
Vie higbest point of the entt. At last, honwer, it voa of^crled Utat tho
lugiiett point was a whole fathom out of ttii; jicqiendivnlsr. Mnay smaUer
|>arl« had also be«n much injured, partly by time and natural ceuuw,
MitJv I>y the different bomhordmE-nts. For example, the croniis of many
liiil« side towers had bven split from Lo]i In bottom, and huavy fnijpn<>nt8
of ktiHiB Imnjf tlirvatening^ly over tlie alnw bplow twanniiij^ witii life. The
fnrmrr re^paira had b«en eKceedinirly defective ; round many of these
Bmalltn- towum only thick iron baiid^ oad been pawed, which Ecatvely held
tile Wwo stoiuM togothrr. Otiient had merely iron slaves and crnnip irons
to Icepp the rutinway frngTnentGin thvirplnoaa. In 1809, afinr thi> French
Kii ilMirdinent, a great deal of money had be«n lavished on theise cramps
aiid hfildfuita ; but in 1H38 the real rcpwr now in progicai was began.
Fioin thi> main or round oorridor, the tower is Rurrounded by cightosa
j|rnllrrie« form4>d of sfcrong beams eonnected by ladders, ritdng above each
other to the top of tliic cross. The work was begun on the twenty-fourth
of Septcmbtr. 1838; it was hoped that in three years it would hai-e been
finiihod, but it will certninly recjuiie three tnoreto re*torc the noblo build-
ing to iti (bnni^ ma^ificcnce nnd perfection. Wliat a day of joy will
tliat be for the people of \'iennn !

The verv snhd mnnner in whirh the eeattoldin^ are erected, must Inve
oflV'red no imall dilBculty; fr«ni below, all this joinery cannot be loolted at
witliout n eligfit Kcn-iation of fenr, lv?4 nomc tnuncndous hurncane mi^htin
itfi sport scatter tUvni? beatn^ like matehes, and hurl tliem donii upon tho
iot.'f< and hcfld^i bolow. Wli«iievt<r tho wind is ver^' hij^h, thl^ \t'oi-k orast
be r1i«runtinu(-il, and the vrorkmea retire. Hitherto n.11 Hrcid«ntji have been
avoided, but one of the men told m« Uint the nii»cliietroiu jf)<diw Itad nnce
^ayed Urn a trick, more d»tif>iTnns than agncab)*, in whirling him aloft
and seating Iiim astride upon a balusbrsde ; fortunately, bofore the socood
gnat came, Ke had clung (iut to a beam, and, creeping down on tlie inner
■ids, sawd his life.

The difficulties experienced in the execution of the building may be esti*
stated 6mai this oue circumstance, that half a day is required to raise the

TBtf SO 8r. BTErnES'6 TOW£X.

131

ftones the skhw JiMsaRo wIik-Ii the Gn'-viniyantmg bnllet traTPntes in »
mumeat. The Btotic* are kll toWablj l^rgc, and elerea vorknea ve
Bearedy >ble to rmiw two in a day.

]b ordn* that the atiw wtaaet luod in tht rcpaira nay not be too con*
■picaOBS bj tbe tide of tbo old. they Iiofc invrotcd a new colour, where-
with to stain thom. but tbe ri|rht shade has iHit been catrght, and the
plaoi^)i repaiied arc eiuit^ rc^cognia^lle from below. We potntml thtg out
to the people about, but Lhey anurvd lu, that afW many nttnnpt* no
lietur colour coald be foand. It struck ns at fint u tttv exti'aoTdniary'
that it ihoold be to very ttilTiciilt to bit the colour of a mass of oM grey
■tonea, and began to examine them more mmutcly. We fonnd irudi ft
mie^ of dndca on cvrr^- lulo and ervry ftonc, that it vnu clearly im-
poMible that ouc and the same colour ihoiUd suffice to blend old and new
liannoaUMttly together. The tints, monorer, depend partly on the Tef[e4ation,
— tba moMM which cover nearly the whoic surface of the toner. In toane
phoes tbcae moawa aiv withered and licenced; the itooM ore then corered
with a dftilc grey oontit^ tliat can be robbed to durt between the fingvn.
2]erc mud there oecur patches of young ihom, producing a i^-yislt green
tint; ilivn cunic wbitiaii grcym btuiih and yellnwiah enluurin^ To giro
the right eS«et it woiibl be nevE^ary to lay on all thpMi ^iita and blend
them softly together; and even this would f&mvly snKcti, as the appear-
aooe of ilie whole c^astgea with the weatb<>r. In laiu and damp it-eather
not only llie ban stonm cluinge their enliHir, but nlno il»nte covered with
anoss. The moarae attract the niav(Cnri>, and manr that Innk withcrrd in
dry weatJter seem to gmn naw life after min. In a wet »-ason (lie verdnra
cf (he ton'er on one side becoVMS eitrrmely lind, and it is impoisible to
follow nil theic changes with any arlitie'uj colour. It is a <|Destion whether
it would not have been better t<> lea^v tbv new stooea of their natnnl
colour, trusting to time to assimilate tiiem. Be this as it amy, it is certohi
that tlie i-'hosen colour is much too paJpofaly blue, and ought to hare been
blended to a yellowish grey.

The Soni of St. Stephen's lowi^ is moct) more nniform duin tliat of tho
catliedral of Cologne, where a hundred different plaottt grow in Heh luvu-
riaoeo. All the north tide is eorered with moflses. The tooth has little or
no regulation. The fntma of tlic calheiinU is vnrKins enough. Of tho
biunafi part we spoke bc&irei. Tbe crows, jack>daws, hawks. &c., it has in
eommon with all the church steeples in Uermasv: owU are very rare, the
gnardiaua of the pincc said tlivre were none, wnidi wotild be remarkable
•nough, bnt the bats are lo n»nierou<i, that I wns told on a Inte eenrch for
tlieir hiding places not less than lifiv hod been di^^nrcred and ki)l<>d. be-
cause the uij^it patrol* eouid no longer pntti-et their bknterus or tlieir (actt
from the asaaults of theao gnblina. A worse plain'p ()>an tlir-.«r arc tba
goUe, tlia BtUo long-kgrad stinging insects of which all tratellera and
boatmen along the Danube cotuplain so iii>icb- I alwold hkc to know
what the swamp-brrd Bnimalrubr ran think of sivking in thne giant tonen^
wher* iu Slimmer time they iwnrai in such munbera that the people em-
ployed there are obliged to sleep with damp el'»tli» upon their faces.
Cfaamlier fliiM are found alto, but in nu gmit iiunibert. Jilira there are
none. Spider* we found in prodi^iMH niunhen; they and the jra'so hare
bftcn carrying on the war liertt rhese four Imndred yean, and dovbtleii
mneh to inlen-st the natnralist has occurred, nit«nwhile, in the world of
, ipidw a. Iu fact, a naturalist might take up his abode here for a time, with

133

TUK IIKNAGEBIE AT SCUOENBRUKN.

gVMt adraotlig* to iBivnee- Of tlie stonn*, the people txy that nevljr
ftll eoRic from the coith. So noon lu tlu> wcathoToncka iu sumiucr tuni
suddenly to tho touth, a storm inav he cxpcctrd. Oac of the youiigvr of
the tratduneii. who had lately b«ni placed in this exalted posltinn, told lUt
th«t the weather up hcrA wu utinctuiwa inful. At hi* fnvt watch th*
IbarAiI ba»d of wind inatnmicuts, whistling ukd liowlu^ in the nuaber-
leat dcfb, holn, and conkL-re. the rDcklui; and cracking of the tower plo-
naclei, the wildly driviti)^ ghost-Uke clouds, with Uie glvaminf; flf iho
lij^htniiiff, and Iho trtuntiinr kvttlv-drumt of lli« Uiutid«r, filled liim with
such tcmir, lliai lie t)i»uglit he miut hnvc jtiiii|x-d init of the first cao-
venient apitiiiii}^ to tliu dvmlts Iwlow. Thviv must bo lii>n> tihuiidaut field
for obsemtioii on acousticf. la Mcending, we remorkod that th« wind
whietlnl through every opeuiog iu a dtS'itf«nt tone.

Proni the wood^ii gklleriM erected for the rvpnin, the nanonma of
the city of Vienna ran now be enjojred marc coni-ciiienily tlisn evw. I
wished to look on this spectacle from the Buinmlt nf one of the side towers.
Thii lumiiut u formed like the leaves of a ro«c flalK'ued at the top, and
aflfonliug just niaetf enough for two Inuiuui fin-t. ^V<* aitcctidixl nccnrd-
tnply an(t perched like equirrola ou tho topmoet branch of a tTc«. The
beautiful cUj of ^'ieuna. lay at our feeu It was a most beautiful, calm,
dear dav- Wo heard and saw all that wan pusiua in the eity; even the
toagt or the canary biiiU in the window* of fomc nouacs tAcendtd to ut,
■Da wo could see llie butterflies (luttciing over the house-tops in Kcatvh of
some fpven Kpot in this (for tliem) drear}- waste. ^Vf• could have Intd a
gentleman wo taw walking below, where the brother was of whom he waa
in search j for we saw hini at the Hsnic time driving at Ilia leisure on the
glacis. This glacis, which suiTounds the inmost core of the city, with its
Broad green ring, lends tlie panorotna ita principal ornament; it ofluscs
the whole picture to fall into picturesque parts, and pcmtitit tlic fine rows
of houaos in tlie suburbs to lie sern to full advaiita^o. They Ue round
tlie outer rdgw of t)ii> glavis like while flowers in u nrcuth of green leaves.
Tho tnwer k««]>er named to us all thu nutik^ I- places, titrvvU, houMa, and
palaces v>c siiw IxMieuth, thowed wt the. Danidic, the first range of tlia
Cajpatliian nioiiDtaiuJt, Lite Slyrian AIp^ and tlit- roads that led to Ger-
nrninr, Motavia, Itobcmin, mid Italy, and " that is," added be, " the high
zoad to Uun^ary." Here wns matter for a prophetic homily, but [ did not
preach it. for It would have been a voice calling in tlitf dwert. The little
&?rviao desired to see the mad to Hungary, which also led to her natiro
land. I oSvrt^l my hand, and she placed her little foot boldly on tho edge
of the stone Huwcr-cromi, nud gared on the fields of Hungary ; nud so
we stood awhile, motiunli?S8, like two fftatuet on a pediMtal, neither felC
ill the least giddy, but I must not forget to say, that the place was firndy
boanlod up aixniiid us, tm that Uio pleasure we enjoyed was unaccomiinniea
by danger. Wlicn we, that is, my Servian and t, had >]ttlifii-d ounelvoa
with the spectacle, wu turned witli equal oouvenienoc to anotlicr, the ma-
ntcuvru of Um Austrian troops, which wo contemplated <tuite at our ease
from the altitude of the soveti hundred steps above menUoued.

THE HEKAOC&IF. AT SCHOBNBKUNN.

Tliat man should sometimes demean himself sensibly cnn be no especial
wonder, since everybody knows tbs.t man is neither nvore nor less tuan a

Tire MENAGERIE AT SCHOENBRUSJT.

133

Rftble CTcatiirr. Dot that tlic poor dini-visionccl brute shoalil da so,
'!■ a Btsndin^ ntarvt-l and luvcUrv of nnturp. Man has in hit amil a clear
light to liguteu hh [inth oxtenmlly nnd int«maJlv ; tl* Pjjclic of Uie
bmie » & small, feelilv-^'Iinunenii^ lamp, .'sluniii^ (limljr through manifnld
Tintii fmiii H lU-pCh nf H^irUticm neniling fnrtli unly occasional |»lean». The
£^ptiaiu worahippcd bnit<4 as the mnrvcts of tifLtiiT«; with as Kuropciuis,
hey haTG rallcn somewhat into contAiopt ; yvt amongst bnitcs aiid plnola,
whteb appear tn owe fa Utile to theiniwlveft, aixl tn liarv rpceited all
etly from Gorf, we *t«tn often to be nearer to tho divinity that) amongst

For mjr own part, I can never look into the eve< of a diix^ n-ithout
Icelioff ilrangtf wciisatii'^tiit in bebolding tiiin VQiicd mvxtciy of tb« ^reat
foul oiF th« uaivwrw. The reader wU!, therefore, not be aurprUmi that I
and mj campaniaa, Ramn K . iii iv short time aftt^r mv iirrii'a] in
Vienna, were to be found has frequently amaof^ iho dnndir^. oAic^r*,
hdlM of iubiod, murkct f'dk^ tiih-women, or by whatever other name the
bsJoaD duTtale* mav bo cnJlcd, than at Schonbrunn among iha bvan, i
apes, tigers, ewtw, bona, and odier disgoiMe of the brute Psyclio, having I
their abod« in Uut jgrarden.

Wo drove there one day in oiw; of tlio iimiiy Inmdrcd public carriages,
ready at all tuan of the day to ffo to all end* «f tlia world with anybody
»nd any baf^ngo. One of our travelling coinpaniona waji a unartly-
dreu«d old citiscn of Vienna, whu, when hr Iieud vrc were going to
S*'liOnbnimi, related to us upropos, that he had once n>fii»«<d a request of
tlie Emperor Napoleon when at thft very lummh of his power. He (tho
citinni) had a moat incompamljle homo, i^f Ilungaiiftii race, and Nugiulevii
had 9(.-en it when the ownor, as captain of the biirKher jiTuan], hnd defied
befuro liiin at the head of his company. The emperor had ofTcn'd hini 50OO
flnriiH for the animnl on the rOot, but neither the f^ld nor th« entreatiei
of lilt: liinl ofKitrnperould induce him topait with hi« adnitrahle steedi and,
ax U-fore )sid, ht had r»fiiM-<t \n* horse to tliii mighty potentate at n time
when tho Emperor of Austna liad not dared to refune the hand of his
daughter.

The menagerie of Schonhnmn incloses a part of the imperial garden,
ooar whteli there passes a miserable, acantilyBlted ditch, that in tnmmer
smrlls aboiiiinnbly, and which it is amazing to mo docs not appear the
frightful "hiect it in, to iho thousands of Vicnun people who daily resort
thither. 1 he meiiagorie oceiitiies a largo circular {neee of eround, in tho i
cealro of which, on a little eleTution, stands a many -windowed snintnoT |
hoHsiT, the abode of the gaily-plumaged parrot kind. If I were a eoiirticr
J should tue all my Lnfluence to got these birds removed from w con-
epicuotia a place, lest it should occur to some to draw odious eompariions
beiwi^i) tlieii) atkd tlie court circle.

From this parrot centre the whole cnrcle is exit by radii into nnmemiH sce-
lions. /Vll tliwo secuons are divided by walls and Iwlgi-s, and broad
w^«. Each section contains tlic stalls batlw, pond", pMlurages, and
^eBCura*grounds of a partieuLar speciw, aiid since the present emperor has
filled up the places that had become raeant, there is a tolerable number
vS interesting furred and Eeathorcd ereotum, to whom Asia, Afnea, or i
America has furnished paws or claws, hoofs, horns or antlers, the appetite ■
for bread or for Uood.

Tlie bears, tigers, and other ainiii»orovis animal*, arc d«ly in view of the

THE XEVAGEBie AT BCHOEHBE U inT.

public; tb* dHmiu of th« other* must be eaoecially opmed totbe
The browa bMn oat, UIm poor boggant ui their ita», and reoav«d tfaank-
Saiiy a monel of brad. If it nan tlirmni on th« (iif\ tbey i-Uml>H] op
tbi> irun gntiag aiul ihnift tlioir pam tliKHi^h b> rr-acb it. Uoc iif tbetn,
nben wo took out waae nun bread, aot up ou hu biiwl quarters and uioved
Ilia fare paws up ami down like a uedtinncr till lie gui a pieca A tiger or
n bolt wuuld nevsr teani to do Uiih. The nalnni of the bear Kcma to
pSitakA nf tba aiankcy ii« «cll u of tbo dog. Tb« old bean in Si^iOD-
Lruim am the i^andchildreD of bean likewise bom in captirih', and bare,
in their turn, Jeacendanta. tlio fourth gen era Lion, therefore, of ■ tamed
net* It would he int<-.rMting to Icam, if in biti-r f;«a«rationi the cha-
lactor of tbc auiiuiJ will undet^ »ny coandcrabki alteration. But, m-
fi]rtiinat«Iy, tbe ptodm here keep no exact amount of their obarges, which
nui^t be ujiefiil to tlie stndcnt of iiatutal hitt^ry.

It wjia a hot <luy, uad tbc p:>lar bcnn, tho bloodtfainty aiuinali. wbo
wear on their bod^' the colour of hitioccncc, and cotvt their necks with the
wltttt looks of v«tioraU« a^, when aU t)ie while they hav« not an honest
luir on th« whole body, were (plaahiag about in the water all the time w«
■tajrciL Tliey art ilie only nntmab who do not mpure tlic-ir ftvrelliniE; to
bf nurnied ill lli» winter. Like t)u?ir fir nmn< aniinblv bn^tbrt-ti, tlif hniwn
brATt, thry arc fi»d only on bread And ntilk, which, it ia Skid, enables them
to bear their impiuonnteiit better.

The be&utiful ruyai tij^ we found lying on one Bide with all tiii legf
atrvtchad out, but to that bi« htnd ]»gi ro«ted b»twecQ thv two fom ooM.
The beeper Mid thii was hte ordiuary position when at rvst. Wo dunt
uot dikturh him, iu he take* it ^vry muoh amiu ev«u if j>eople only tou«h
his d*ii, jfTowU fearfully, nnd t* long bofore be ran be appenaed. Uia
lady it of a oiachj^ntlor character. The cages of the tiger, lions, uid other
irild eata, an divisible into two ports by ro»Lns of alidiDg partitions, that
lite ■niinals may be driven into one wIiUij tlie other ia cleaned. A third
dtvinati prtjficU like a boleony, in wtn^ii tbi-y cut enjoy thi' »uu«hiae and
open air, luid ahow tlioiiisclTcs io thv public. The brjtrs have tho'ir botlw
ill addition.

Tha itory we beard in the next lection concerning mnster Jack was dla-
tnMmg to a &iend of liuinauity. Ma»tiir Jack wna an rxrecdin^^lv well-
jia|)osed and veil-bred youth, living iiuietly and respectnbly in tii« apgioiTited
|4*rall>>V- l^B "lu on tb» bwtt footing with all his acquaintance, and ]iar>
tieuUrly aeta«hMl to liis friend and servant, M.. Ucuri, who had long boea
bis conipAiiion and tutor in all tlie ailK of life, whprviu maxCer Jat-k MUiwed
great addrais, succee^ling in all h«i uiidt^rtouk. lie could tako the cork
out of a rum-bnttle without tlw aid of a corkicrew ; hv&t a drum like the
DUMt espcricucnl dnunmer, and blow a truinpi-t thitt, lil«; tlie siimnioiu to
the Ia*t judgnnfiit, jiierced to the very marrow. Il' ii lady visiting him
let fall her glove or ber handkerchief, master Jti^k dropped on nnu knee
like a coiirlK>us knight, and prrticutod It to her u^nin. But who con
QDumeralo all the virtues and aci-oinplUhnieiiU of this well-luslructi^J young
gentbinaii? It may be boldly a^^ertod that miuuit Jack vha the lirttt gen-
tmnan of tho hou court of SeliJknbruuo, and curpaucd «vvn thv pomcly
BOlidling bcurt in grace nnil de«t<-rity.

An uneipeut«d ooaurrence, or mtlicr tlie coiuequcnces of a bcid colcu-
iation, suddenly uroduL-ed a melint-lioly change in (lie whole being of tho
gifted Jack. Toia uouuircuco wa» his acquaintance with Miaa Djook,

THX MEXAGRBIK AT SCIIOEKHntlKN.

ISS

: tn irhinh viciuasl^ disponed ladv, be had been nnadvuedW (]uiu^
terad. Jack, vho, rceeiving; lo many tiuU dkil^, nrif^ht bo auti to lito in
tfke ^at worlds bad beoomv acquitiiitcd with many a ^'oun^ lady without
obowit^ farther ciTilt^ tliao any caialicr mi^t offer in pure ntorteiiy
to any Mdy. But tlib puiimlar lady, who tout op her abode ia bU very
faoUM as it wCTC', [iroducud a a)n£icnl cflirct iipott biin. Mcr vjts, cbe
mtj vS h(T U'fth. aiM) thr unsix-iucablc cliarm uf her m:\ c\vxV, excited
in bun th« livelUMt dosiic to call her \wi omi. To tba iDdeccrilmble vexa-
tion of hi* tutor he foivot all hit learning, all his accompliabnienti. Hu
eaotleOMB vaa duuigiil to fury, bis uniremi |ibila»L)iri>py to ih« most
notdk ftrfiag nipiiii«t all tbe world. In fbort. Iris iiiSihI n)ii(.<h before
nmnUsd a mll-cultivatml field, novr became like a giirdirit laid wasta.
Abt Vtw, to what a cwiidilinu didot tlioa not reduoD clus thy poor rictitn t

His faithful frioiid, M. Henri, dares no longer Ycoture near him, fnr if
he docs, Jeeic iiiiRiitiiintely dmwa bis nmnl, that ia hu elub, which b«
whirU aloft in the air, tJirsAtttitaj^ to crush to piece) all tliat luiproRcb biio.
I faiind M. Henri perfectly tneonsolable. When I asbed bun why tbo
female eleidiant bacf bcoii jilantd so directly bvforo her admirer's «y«s, hu
burst out into invcctivv* agiunst certain [ier«oii«, &om whicit I f^thor^dt
that either tbere was oo other place fnc the Dewly-purchaseil liidy, or that
tbpy were In hopes of founding a race of UjeclU and Jacki from a mar-
riage between the pair. Packed up in hli fioj^r-thick hide, master Jnek
waa movtni; his enormoiia maaa of botw tro and do«m Ute balcouy of bis
houn, throwing bis weigbt now on tba rignt. now on th« btft leg. Occa-
sonallf ba tossed bis trunk about aa a man might bito hts lips in cup-
pi a w ej «Dg«r. His littlv eytt looked t]uit« nban, tboogb Ilia keepar as-
anred w tb ocaturc wo.h full pf fiitnie and fui^-. He aeemed to take b»
notiee of niy thing, but that nan. as w» neire asonrd, beeuu^ caged wtthia
liiji bars, he »aw he could do no mischief. Any object, living or dead, that
came vithtn the reach of his trunk or liis fept, would be daUied or trampled
lo psoei tmmwfiata^. On tba bread we iluvnr to him, lie naver deigned
to bestow tb« most superficial noti««, while Miw f>jeck directly oponoa bar
hA flasliy month and snajipcd up every morsel of the rolL

At noon the ladr was let nut to taVe ihe air in the meadow. Behind
ibe thiek beams and trunks of trem forming tlw palitade irv- enuld watch
her proceedings. She walked grarely down tlic path Icndini; lo the
meadow, alM> suniigly fenced, tbRii turned to the leli and stood awhile
before ihn puwif^ blading to Jack's apartjncnt, an if tn say, good morning,
but M \k ibd not appear, she went to take h?r promruade on tbi.' turf and
fiiilfb hor toilet, vrnereiQ she was assislcd by a fnub breeze. It blew %
tliick cloud of duit and *tfawt over her bmwl aiiiei. Jack, wc were told,
tliey dunt not let out if they would not expose both trees and walU to tbe
grrntrsl danger.

Tlie larger species of animals have for the most part tbor Mparale sec-
tions of the garden, but of tlic feline races many speotmans an lodged in
<Mie bouse. Amoag them is n lion, a bom rrpuobciui, for be is a natlv*
of Hambui]g, not vary imposing in size, but with a very fine expreeaiitt
bead.

There is oertunlr dcapty noted in tbe human sou] a pecidiar ploasur*
in the enjoyment of what is dang«Ytui, and that with the timid as well as
tba coorageoiu, with this differenee. tliat tho former love danger only
vbcD they 9K certain it will not affnl them pcisoDolly. Our eumpenian

Tm SfBlCAnERIE AT SCHOEKBEIJinf.

in Sciioubnmii wlio. if nil sipis docnTod not, wdd »n nmuit pohrooo, wouU

Etviic. ill sjiilo of iho intr«Htii:-s and {<ro)ii bilious nf the kMnxin, in teaniriff
na and tigsn witb hi* ndiiiff whip till they got up and ihow*d llinr
teetli. Wc on our ade couU not with.itBiid tliv Iccnptatioi) of cmaping'
into one of the ci^ea to examine iu iutemal tnTangpitu-iLt.->. It wm a leo-
pard hoiue ; the walla were carefully phled with iron nttil [i!ttiite<l lij^ht
btue. The nTTanf^nicDt* tot carrjbig »wny all dirt, and tie division into
fixjiic nnd back dens, nppcnird to us to bt' n-ry jm!ic'i'»iis. The Irnpards.
it must be observed, for vrlinai thesp apartttietitu liud bi-rii prepared, bad
Dot yet taken poeMnion of them.

7«uiiv of the animnU aMembled Here have iiicmKed so much as tbe
Srsiilinii lian-Ji. A fi'w yt*m a^v, » ni)gl» jmir wiu linni^lit hcrr, and
ther* iiw tinw lliirtv. and mniiy have hten giroii nwny. The widest and
most timid of all are the Sardiniiiii moiiHioiu. Th<?y keep at ihr farlhest
*?nd nf ihfigTCHiiiiiaUotu^l ihcni: nnd ivedarod not icvnde it. as t1ii;kfr[)ara
ibtKurcil us, that nii thi^ npproftch af any panon or thiii^ iitran^e to tliinn,
thcv would diLsli thcmBclieit in tlicir blind terror af^itist Uk> ti«e< and
v-iills Even thoir youn;; display thii cxlremo shynoa the day afU-r birth,
and (ly with such rapidity from all who approBCli, that it is unpofsihlv W
catch thorn, while th« yoiii^f? beta* and lion* will allow themselves to bs
taken in the iirrns like children.

Amon^ the eamcls, who ocree no better here than iti Arabia, b»t livo ui
a ttate of eontiniial irarfnre, bitinj^ and strikinf^ each other with their fia*-
fcot, tlieru no9 one so imbcarahlv liciuiu tlint he wiw obliged to he kept
chained in his stall. His bonv hpure, rupged and rrninrkably bare hide,
faded yellowish j^^y colour, tne flabbv and diseased bump hiinpin^ ilowo
fin oiiv >idc of bis back, his npitvful and reiioriioud spittiii)^ luid liis^in^ when
anv thiii^ luiniun drew near hiin, aiid bis self-ritiiiciilcd niminaiin^ when
he vra« loft Blone> niado him a nio^t oU'entiive iiiini>>t of tlie inleiwcst i*;rrtliiim,
all tlu) more disj;vitinf>', that he woe withal cxc««!>ivcly dry and nic«Kr«.
But oren the fnt and well-fed of tlie <.'amel kind look \try litlJo hiindaonier.
Tile hair is seldom or never in j>wod order, or sulHeient to cover them en-
tirely, so that the speekled parts of t)!e body of ii bluiKli eolonr (how very
disa^reeablv tbrou;^]i tbe leathern skiji. There was one such fat camel
here, whtc'b bad been brought from E^pt. Of all tamed animals the
CHJHiii iM ]iiTihii[M tbe most malicious. The 8ebus, — tame, gentle eowf,
JTom tho KoHt Indies, — have a pond in common with the ctunels, which
divi<lea th«r territory an tliu Iiidiiui Ocean docj the lands of their birth.

There are soiue reinni-knhly heaiitifnl lebras iu Sehbnbmnn. One was
■with yoiinj*. Another had alretidv brought into the wf rid a little one, that
closely I'cspmblcd its sire, a (ieritian nas. A few Ktripes on tbe li-gs only
betrayed its waienial descent.

Tiie birdi are lodged and provided for in a eimtlar way, and there is s
fiEb-pond for the waterfowl. Corp arcfutlened for tlie spoon-billed geese,
who wiil Foinetimcs jwallow & tish woiyhingf tbreci jwunds, and iiu'asuriu?
a foot in lenffth. without betrftyiii|r the leiut iiiironvenistiee. If th* lion^
captaeitv for twidhiwrnir were of tbe same rclalive sixe, be could dispoM at
owcc of n whole lamb. It nni.-'t Iw an enchanting sight to see the ofttrich
run iu hi* native deeerts ; IVir even thi- few li^ht spiingm th.st he tiihe* in
his poor tields in London, Pirns, or Schitnbrunn, whi^n the keepers allow
him to eecA[ie from lin narrow cage, aitbrd a pleasing s]>eeta«le, in which
the lig^litly fiuCleriiig phimagre of hia back plays a principal part. They

THE MEN'ACERTR AT SCHOGlfURirxX.

ltavr> Ixkra niucb paius at Sclibnlirunn to dIksiq young from the ostricb,
but bnvo M yrt (^ nothing bi^wmd tho *>f^. Ax thr pnrents thi>RiaclT«<
do nrit niidf-rstaDd hiitcliiii^, and ttic Gcrniau fiun bos not the life-giviiig
pou-er nf the African, they ]>ut ihe t*pgs nt fint under a Tiirhey hen, who
sat i>n th«m, but had not wanuth euough to i^all forth web jjiant broods
bom the yvlk«. llic litnt of thv oven Traa (hvii tiicJ, but with no better
Buccnt. The parrots h&\-c laid c^gs, but could never be iaduced to hxtch
them.

Of nil the i.ra|>rtM>D«d an'nnftld none make so niclaiicholv an impresooa
M tbo cables oud vulturca. Tht^v );rcnt, hi^i-xonriii]^, liu->circting lofda of
tiw air, ou^ht at k>ast to hav« liod Ow'ir })ri»nn*house nrranfr«d ia somo
measntv atiwrdiog to their natural jiropensitics. A n-oodon cap*, with
irwn ^ratingt i* n litti-r den liir n lion or a tiger tliaii for the rock- throned
Mgltt'i n«st. Ttt tin* narrow duii^eoit they cnnnnt even stretch their
pinioni, and yet thit motion it no doubt M inttch n neir»ssiiy to thetn as it
a to a man to alrctch hii> aniift and li^^ after loii^ cimliniiaiicc in n Kitting
or tying- posture : indeed it \» vvideni, fram the (^u«tnin nil inipriBoiied birds
hftTA of fipDwIiiij; tltcir wings slowly and yawnin^ly from lime to time.
The t*f;\e and vulture eit upon thoir nerches as motionless as if tiiey w«ie
mere stones. One whoin I was watening licld his head on on* lioe and
his ey(«i iinnioveiibly fixc^ mi the tkica; another ntti^ml a mstancholy
sound at interval*, and li(Wd his useless ^^g- Some of thom are ex-
tremely old. I was told that one had been nny years a prisoner. In
6ft:y yeisrs, if we aiiiume that one way or another an eaele can fly thirty
miJcs a day, ho mip-ht have travewed 500.000 niilifs ; that is, he mi|:;fat
have ciicninponed the ciirtit a liuudred times, (lood God '. whnt a fearful
drstiny to feel this power withiu. and hv condemned for ever to one nar-
row dirty itinkin"^ hole ! As the eagles are neither cheerful here, nor dis-
play Iheir natural pL-culiarities !n any way, they coJi yivid neither pleaiuro
to ilie loviT of nature, nor profit to Uic infiuiu'r into her mvitcrie^ ; and
people would do much bvtt<fr, I am idiiiOdt im'lined to think, to free thnn
at onee from the burden of life, and pla(« them atulTed in a museum. A
procesi to which the eag^leii, iiatTots, and some otlier birdj nn^ tnihject ti> in
tlieir poiiliiieineiit, is that nt woHhing with an infusion nf toluKvo to five
tlium from vermin. Their ffathers ar« rubbed with it against the grain.
They mSer lunre from rermin in captivity than in freedom, because they
cannot guard themselves aeoinst tlieni bo actively.

ThiF piumi,.hou»e, to wTticli, as to a eentro, all the ii«elioiis tend, is
adorned with the portraits of many aiiunals. The birds themaclves are as
thick here as in some primeval fiireat of South America ; iliey are two-
legged and feathered monkeys, for they an- iM|unlly re^tleai, teachable,
imitative, and comic. To the st«m iiiotionlees en^^lc thvy offer the
stronffrat [Knftuble eontrastv bearing captivity apparently with perfect con-
tentment. Thev are in cteirial motion, and *cem to observe every thing
with their ever-watelifu! I'yc, to meditate awhile upon it, and shnek and
duittcr without inlcmiiHion. 8ometimc!i the whole army of them would
be siuldenly as itill aa mice, and tlien break out all together into one feaHul
discord, OS if they vere put on a spit — an honour never y«t aocorded to
their black tasteless flesh. The gardens of !>chuubruim are yet more dis- i
tinguishc«) for their plantations and th^ir botanical collrctions tlian for the I
animals lliey coiit^ii. Not tliat the looc avenues of beautiful, Isrge, but
moft cmoUy mutilated Umo tt«es, are eubtJed to much tdountion. 7'bere

1S8 THE UBHAGERTE AT 9CB0EKBBUIW.

U <«iteinl}' ft method of altcnne the nuuni ;*ro«rt>i and Rgnre oF tfuM to
tlie advonta^ of gwrdeii dcconUian. £vra tlic Fn-mli nyit of gwdHuag',
as it ii called, has ita vstlwtic audi pOBtical nde, (or tbe tr«ei^ tnbed Into
firramidi, gatei, arebed paaragM, columns, and otiwr Hrchitactofml dMorm*
tuxM^ ara UMkds to jmduM aouve striluiit; iUuaioiis, and a* art baa «iitirciy
cltai^^ tbe appearaooe of tlie trees, ami Irft notliinj^ natural about thrall
Tte ibrf^t the origuial furui, aiwl wttlingty giva ounelva up to ibeipoctin
deception.

In Scliunbrunn, liowever, l*jr cuttm|; oae jide n( the trees and Icai-iti^
the otlier in tlu-ir natural im'^^ularity, tlii^y haw iinxlucMl ooiliing but dft>
JOTBiitJe*. RaeuiMitig hi^li flat walk on oiio ade, >uid wild firuit (JMiiiena
oa tlic utbcr. Tlie^ are not cren clijipod nf au caunl bcif^lit. but shoot up
here more, tlicre U«t, bo that tlie iniA^ of the wall 'm ikii. kept up, and no-
dung ifl to be sc«n but tlic mulUatt^ tiv«. IF any uae ibould turn culumna
out uf marble statue* to form u p(>rti«) nith then), be wouid be cried out
upoa for bii barbariBin, but if he outy half cut liia gtatuL's, and thLii iiiaila
toMD do lertice at walU, wc should tliiiiik him still leu for hi.i painii. TIw]^
take a great deal of trouble, hunvrcr, ti> bring thcK- trovn iuto onliT, and
liuve, acnong odier machines, quo tilty or lixtv' fert blt^h, conMStiiig OC
mcnl stages, aod rolled, nbout oa castors to euuble tho gsrdenen to reach
&» braochcs the bcitvr with t)it.-ir »bean and nxi-^

But we ought not in ganWiw like tin»c of Schtjiibniiin, wht'r<' Uiere b aa
much that is admirable, to waste much time iu finding fault with tUcM lima
tnu. 'Wo williugly abandooed ourselves to the guidanee nf thp ol>li^ng
Bttcodants of the gnrdeiK, and followed thi-m throiieb their vr|;;ntahle titut-
eury, and if unable to give a satisfaelorj' account i>f iu wtnltli, we will at
kait attempt some description of the more dictingiiiflied objiwu.

Then nro naair pUutfi llvn^ not iu tlie greonbousea but in tbe open
gatden, which we sboulil wvV. flwrwlienj in vain. One of the mort splen-
did Bpecimena is thn Sopttora Jtifumirn, % large cnagnifieeot tree, with
•xoeewvely fiiio feathery leaves. It HtjKidd on a boaubAil lawn, and the
inndjiijrs of itj bini^bs, and tlie wbnle tigure t)f tbe tree, are so pictumquB,
that it UBS bi;>eii rt'|)catiHUy [>aiiili>d, and hitu it> porlntit in l}v: emperor's
CoUcetJan of picturn« of the pljmt^ nm) tree* of ScriAnbninn.

Aitista are almost conftantiy cniploj'rd in these j^^rderiHt iu drawini; cither
for the emperor, or with scientific onjecU in view. The ii^en and hoi-bousee
are all hsudsome and icpadous, nod a new temple of the Drj'ads in right
imperial style is now in pfo^rcfs of erection. Whenever a bnuicli is ^^J
broken by the wind, the vegetable surgeon is dirvetly st hajid to asaiafe'^^H
with iron linga, ropes, and bandages. By the rout of tlie orebidaee« w» ^^^
saw a potatoe laid for lIiom trorms to creep into, wluch would ntbcrwoo
iMtack tJio plant iticlf. For several trees standing In the open air, sepa-
rate huta an erected in the winter, for example, thu Aeauearia excdsat
and this must be elevated «»-ery jtar, as the tree grows rtipidly. Erery
pliuit produeea* or attraolSi sonw particular species of insect, and every
where we ciiw tlut most judicious arran^^cmeiiU for their destraotioo.
Fiom the Bnuilian £eui palm long threads dcptnil, mid every one of these
threads ia a pauegyric «m the rigiiance of tlic Sclionbrmin (pirdcnt-rs*
for lliey are preserved in their entire length, neither torn nor in any way
injunol, aa we so often find them in other grcen-hnuses. The palms, ta
wtuch this garden i* richer than either the .lanltn ilu.i Pliuitos at l^nria, or
Kew Gardens, near London, bare wiy lung, very fragile roote, which to*

TIZ£ FBATSCIIEI.Wi;iBER.

139

' 1^^^ greatest can in pUntinf*-. and that that eve i« her* beatowad Uw

faaa ft bcaubrul blogaoiB, which bos iho ^pearance of being fcrnud fmta
jtilovt vrax, and ia vary *aaiy hraiLea off. Tn avmd thia, snarj bloasom ii
pTOyiJ«i wirh a [irop compoted of the ttcodcmt upliiiUra i many other
pUnts bad tlw lilctt, with ibe addition, wbcrr thr plant was vcn- tender, cf
• RuIb cutUoo of some wft material betwwn the pinp and tL«' flower. I
£d not am a an^e nni»l(<cbi>d ot neUy-loakin|^ pliint.

Amon^ the Taiitics shown an aln some JJrnHrofiiuM PieranH. whidi
n^uire iwi voil for their growth, bnt are kept lilw biids in wire cages, and
bung Dp ut windows, wlicrn it \i only neoetaaiy to ^irinlile them at timaa
—'■h water; the climbing VaoilU grows abo in tlw air, uotwitUt«ndiDg
tlucLDHS of its leaves, and may be mupendttl by tlirmds in a rxkd :
S^fopalm, (Qrcof anmalis,) whou yesHv gn>wth, cvni in a Scbonbrnnn
fiiwiiig house, ia fix or aavcn cIU ; a ncl> collection of £ncu from the
Gif* : and, lastly, a Cactus cerrrus PerwUttius, eighty yv&n old, ind
wnofa has thereforv psmed m^itrly a rvnltirj' of it« baiv, fraitlaas life, rivclad
like I'roincthenii to tli« desoUte rock.

TBE PBATSCUELWEIltEB.— FISIIUOXOEBS XXD DEALERS IN

OAM£.

The moat celebrated of all the womeii of Vlemm ia, beynnd doubt,
"u» TTjereea, but the most noted arc the to-called " Fratschelwciber."

Ice Uieir nstcRi in llie cabbogv -market of Ki>i>i^beig, and tlio Hallvt of
Farift, tLtnr are distiaginched for thmr eloquence, their presence of utind,
vid their inexhaustible wit. It is mid lliat die Emperor Joseph went ohm
inco^iitii among ihem, and puiposely oteitumed a bucket of eggi^ ia
order to liave a ^ledmen of tbeir oratorical powersL Their chief seat is
in the " Hof," one of the hmct aquarea of the city, where they deal in
rrgptAbks, fniiti cheetc, and other article* of food.

AVhat I saw and heard of tliese interesting |)enonj gave toe more
•nuMOMiat than T can Xxctfn ta ^to tho rvndi-r by n. duwcriptjon, for when
ibe naive originality of the Vienna dialect comes ioto print,* it j^vm do
tnoro idea of it as spoken, than the printed notes do of the sound of a
|Neco of iiiuniu.

1 must confess, that often wlteo I rotiirued from llie " Fratwhel"
market [ uted to feel as if I bod been lu a iQadhoiue, «> inccasaut and
clapper-tike luul l>eeu the iJialtcr about every thing ia aud about tlie woHd
— about tlift " Germntuitin" which they were r*e<ira mending to Uecr
Vim NacliligBll, an old hsirdrcswr, wboie po>-crty shone out froui every
ode of hie worn and rent nether gannenta but on wliom tlicy bestowed
i1m *< uon" neverthelcaa bccaaae be neld a few kreowra iu hand : about th*
butcher, " the stiugT bound, iv1k> liod sold them tucli a miMroble little bit
of meat to-day." TItey spared neitlit-r tlie emperor, the |>ope, nor their
nuniiten, aud, least of all, the people of rank and fiuliion. wlii)iii they taw
driviuf^ about, I was oiic d*y witiicw of the litllo cerentony n»Nl with
tlw luttor. AtthccnmLToftho "UoF," a careJoscoachniiuiiauovor aboy.
Ju on iustaot a crowd of vomea and mea wen in Adl pursuit of the dying

■ KoBttcmplbMbeeiinikdeWtnuiaMeUie Aa*t>»saiiTftVtadaldBleet,(irwlitcIl
■amoTMU fpcdnena eeeur in lU« iiatt oC U. KoU*< vock.— 7>.

veliicle, in vhich ml ft lodv and ecntlcmAn of t1ic hij^hcr class. But tlie
Fnitcchclwdber paid not toe miuillest heed to llii-ir hi^h iiobilily. " Cntrh
'om chcrc, htinff 'em Ixuk, the qualitv cuidlc-iuuften ! bnnff *«m back!
the scum of a (liui^li'ill ! To nta over ihe poor bor !" wure titc complimcnu
that raa from mouth to mouth, m tlit^ mob ran Itawliag after the gcntlog,
who urotilcl probably h«r» fared ill enougl), if they had fallen into Ui«
bonds of the irntittM nibble. Thit cluss of |)«i»>na in Vieuna arc by no
DieaD) the patient, rcipcclfuli tiniUl herd to be met; with in uthn- rapitab
of monarchical itates; for example, in St. Petersburg', Moscow, Fraf7u<>,
&c. The cliUd, whose cause iras so eii«rf;«tieallv &do|>t«d by tlie FraUchel
womrn, nas nnt v\xn a countryman, but a little Croat, Rich OS are met
vitli in &1I part* of X'ieniin, «f Iliiifr nuiishet and odious. Bcyoiid a bmiae
or two, l»e had sualained tio injury ; tiideed, he had r&tber bcvn kuockod
clown Uinn run ov«r. The nomeii pnt ou hiii bnwd-bniiuned Cr^mtian
hat afr^iiii. wip«-d eantfully hi* wide mantle of tliiok wlut* wik>!, in which he
looked like n dtmlnutivo Orlando in a gianl'^ armour, and b!nif;tit some of
hi.H radishes to console liiin. The cliiKl, who undcrsiood not a w-ord of tlio
Fmtsi'Iiol j.iriron, lookt'il riiiitid hini in a. scared muin/tr, and then rt'-fiitned
his moil rttii nous crj-, "An g»lr» ratri, ratli," (good nulishrf), tlie only 1
GemiaQ ba knew. These Croata are very numeroua in Vienna, and form '
no inrotividerable portion of lite [M>pulacp there. As they sell uotlilttg '
but onions and rftdishcti, the Fratsrhel ladies ara perauadod thiit Croatia
must be a poor country and produce nothing else. In the suburbs, theroi
arv, in tbr jmhlic-hinuo^ of tliv lowest elaw, great dormitories for themi
whieh t)]e>- call Croat quarters. There wlieu tiie rnvona return from tlie
£eldj lo ^tt'pliaa's tower, the' poor Croats Kuddle toother ittlcr the (a-
tigucs of tho day, and sleep in the same tliick cloaks that have Ahetttred
tham from tho heat during tliB duy. *■ They live like so many cattle," said i
one of the Fmi?chel women to me, " thev haven't oven a bedstead, let
alone a inatliB.s<i. Tliuy lie o'ai^liU and iiolidays on their bellies, luid are '
St for nothing but to iimII onimi*,"

How lon^ thff pecnlifLT bnbitE and arrtingpTocnts of a town will maintain
them^clvtrs, and more frequently in small thin^ than in great, 'u !een in
the lish-n lands of \ncnna, which, in passing through Looiioldstadc. are <lis-
ooverwl to the right of Ferdinand 'a -bridge. Althnuifli Ineife stands ore to
easily moved, conaitftJng merely of ilicdj upon Boats, that look as if they wetc
ancliored hy the rivcr-sidc only for n time, yet they liave made good thair
claim t" the place for centuries, and as long a* [leople have consumed finli in
Vienna, sri long has it been cusl(jmiiry to offer it for sale at that part of the
DiHiube-caiiaJ. The ct^iorotion of fishmoiigers belong, in many <icnnan
cities built on rivere, to ine oldest and most privib-giMl bodies, from a very
simple eause, namely, that they carry on o biisiiic*^ which aatucally waa
tlio first to arise in the imuiediitte neighbourhood of a river, and one that
often iM'iA.'ioned tlic foundalion of a town there. In \'ienna they enjoy
great privileges, which Imvo been ratified by all their (niipetors ; yet, in
motlem times no trade, witli the e.iceplion of thut of wig-molcurs, ntu de-
dined so much from its fanner spletid<iur. The refonnation, atid tlip pre-
iwnt moro blx obwFvaneo of tbefattj', even inestlioliceoimtries, havo greatly
reduced the conaumptioa of lish ; and great are the complaiute in this iv-
apect in Vienna.

" In fnrmnr times," mid nn old dealer in finh to nir, " there often ciuno
Bftocn or tixtcen waggons laden with tisb to Vienna, and now they caU

pismroNQEns and i>saleb9 nr qahe.

out as if it were a wondrr If unlv two or three come in oti« aAcr the other,
Jly lad- father, who lived iit tln' good tiroes, us*d to bring three or four
hiiiiilml iiit^Asures uf sprats at micv to market, und 1, bis ton aad tmceamr,
tiiiiik itivicirvxlmiivly Itickv if I c-nn get rid of thirty, so mucb are tha
times ebuignl. FomiHv, 1 mean about tony nr fifty yean aj^o, p«opl0
had BOow recard for ruligioii aud fiut-days, aud 1 kiiow some gmt notuei
where nil FriJayH not bd much meat was allowed as would go cm Uif point
of a knifv:. And t)i«ti tbo cotinmts in Vienna, what a consumption «f iiah
was there ! There wore tJie CarmellCefl, the Aaputiiies, tha Miiioi-ites,
the Barbaritet, and all the mat of thrin ! I recollert tliore wax imt con-
vent wht-re the luonlu uwxl to fast tlie whole ywiu tlirouch, and wlicre we
u«ed to carry the mo«t delicate hinda of lish l>y eart-loadk But that's all
OTcr now. The Kreat people don't trouble themselvei about faittiiig and
Mting fi«h, aud even the monks ant grown more tnipiiiui. Nohiuly, iiow-
a-dit;,'«, kiiowa what a 6iic liih it ; my ftithftr u«c<i to tell mc that in Maria
Theresa's ttme u mucb as ttm aud tlircc hundred weight Ktifokaach would
he mid at a time. Now when a great man buvj a fokascb, it's euily car-
ried home iu a Dspkin, and they seem all to liare made a row to eat no-
thinR but fleali.

" And tht-n niimy changes in horuckoepang hare done a great deal of
mischief to us tish-tlealers. Fonneriy in most great houwa the scrvanta
used to Ul- fed by tltcir miuttorti, uid then it wiu more with fUh than with
meat, which wiii ilrun-r. Now the dunmlics have bccutnc more iude-
pcntleut, thoy have more wages aod feed tbeinselres. and like better to
cat flesh thau 'Sth. Formerly, a coiinMllor's lady wotdd go herself to the
market to buy finli ; now she leaves all that to the cook, who b become a
greater Iiuly tliaii tho cotirt cuumnlhirrsii, and |)eo[)!« choiwe rather to
buy from th» gamr-nmrket than from uj. Then folks arc all mor» dis-
oraerly and extiuva^ant tlion they ufed to be. Ooco even poor folks
wmild leave so mueh behind them llial their ehildren might at Icaot have
their di«i) of iiili at the funernl — now ihey Inavc niitlung but debts, with
which the dcril himself could buy no fish. la old times at ovciy dinner
some rhoico fish u as always amongst tbo cliief dishes — it is not so now.
Th<- I.irliteiiilein seldom gives a dinner, tlio Kollowrat only onco n mouth.
But Mich ii(iblcnu.-ti ai old Ziehy ((tml blcts hiii ntetnory), he used {ilenty
of lish — liked 'A well, and knew when it was good — there are no such men
now — At least not iu Vienna, and it seems almost as if people thought God
had put the ti^ iu tho water for nothing."

Up to tbo last point my worthy trader might be in the right, hut there
is after alt, plenty of Ash still eaten in Vienax and even distant watera are
laid under contribution. The Flatten See in ilungary iumishes in great
abundiiucu the diiUcate fi>ka«cli.

Ill winter, msien, loWen mid tTnb< are brauglit from the Adriatie, tlw
former packed in iee, the latter in chests pierced with holes itpon laurel
luavv», ou xhich they rati befure tbey Imvc rcnchtd them on tlie table of
the ^minnand. Tlic ^wuds of Bohemia also yield a great quantity of li.ili,
but tile larger part of Ui« consumptiou is suppliod by tlmt great ann of tiro
JJanuhethflt passen throuffh llio city.

The ri.divnnrii, fniin wli'iui tliere ia a« much to be learnoil now as at the
time of the CIiriKtiau ora, gave ine mueh intiTtating information coiiceming
tlieir trade. They told me that the sturgeons ascend to about sisleen
t&ilcfl from Vieuiiu. Piesburg ia tbe liighusl point where they arc caught i

ihc gnaUr part eome from Perth. Four ywan ago thpy captiirMl tikera
a ■turgeoa o{ ten vwt., th» WrgMt that luul lt«en smo in Vicima fur »
lone tuna- Up aa W as Lltn, no ed>* ai« found ui Uk' Danvibe or its
tAutarioa. All th» 6ah of tliu •peoes, used in Virnna, cotne down fnitn
Bdienua. N«icher is then my ialnw» in tha Daitalw — it come* from Uw
Elbe and the lUiini; ; aalmon trout aro caogiht in tb« laLea bdonf^n^ to
th» eataln of the Salt-chamhpr. Kopett, perhaps from iej^ {head), am
ray nuall 6»h with t«ry Urgn h<-ndii. Thay am eoagfat in the anm*
nlvn aa die trout, in Uie Trauit and other mountain atreain*, and are
^ni^nl. of prey. When protietlydrcasaditisaTcry n ell LurtiM) fish, andia
mei aooM-timH aa a gansali lo duhn whereon lar^r finh sro mttmI. The
fineat fiah in the iHaabe an: the stiUI and huchrn. The latter is Eko
s trout in form, but neighs rnnn fifty to Nity ponndii. A« tbv Aopnt
Are witliout bones, so the huehea have do acalea, or aadn »■) smnll aa to
be Bcarcely pcix^tiUe, for which reaaon they are the f«Yourite fish of the
Vienna Jem, who eat no fish »-itli ■colcc, aod are, therefore, so in icn-c with
Att^Aai that they will pay almost any pri« for iL Thff miiill sturgeon,
oAcn to ctrongly recoaaiacBded by tbo howl wiutcK to «tran gf-rt in Vieuna,
come &om tlie Ilungariaii DanulH-. They arc easily fnunglc^ by the
mout io a naty and cuigllt mnnv at a time. I wai told uninr rrinarkable
circuinatao0a« felattve to the induence of the watirr* Rawing; tbrougli tlie
dty. The &1i-dealpra maintain that all water eaaaag frcHSi Uie atoeela,
canals, and tluicea, k bo poisonous, tlint it kills the fbh in inimenw qnan-
tatiea. After a raddeti violent shower in cummer, nb(« Lbo whole town
dit^ortcns it« filth, and the contcuta of all tlie druns stream at onoo into
the l>a.nube. many thotiiand ewt. (th? iish-dealen wct|;h the crcatiirea m
thonglit, whiW they an xtiU at Larj^ in their own eK'inent), are sure to
lose ^eir lifea. In the aumnicr of 11^33, the- Danube waa extremely low;
suddenly a riolent storm of rain rused it« wat^-rs nearly ten fert tiigber,
and the stnxun from the city ennie out like inb. The fi:i;h, wlui'ti are
oleaaly animal*, ruahed as if quite desperate to the fltl^fn4^e, lenpt hig'h into
the aar, and fcU in mnltitudcs upon the banlta oF the river; a most stupid
proceeding; on their part, as by goiny up a little fartJier, tl»ev niigltt have
come Ui flea* water.

The words tluit hiul t^uupi'd my friend the finhmoncer respecting tfie
great eonNnmptidii of gnme, which it wajt evident had exeited his envy
not a little, iiidneed mo to thLnIc that 1 should find thij liranoh of induiti^
in a more Uoumhiug conditiou than his owu, uid ao in foot 1 did. When
we cocuider the wealili of Bohemia in wild animals suited to the tnhle-^
wlicrt wo coiuidtT tlie numerous water-fowl that &cf|uent tlM^ InlcM of Hna-
gary, the larj^ scale on which the st^r-hmita arc carried on U} the south
of the Pliitl*"'! Sue, llie chamois met with in great herds hi the ncijjhboin--
inf^ Styria, utid when wo eonuder tliat Vienna he* exactly in the middle of
tlicaa toeidiauatible prewrves, it oiay be readily believed ttint it; morltetj
•re the beat sup^iliiHl with this speeies ot commlihle of any Hly in Europe.
Bow neat tha qiHuitity consumed was shown shortlv befom my arrival on
the following occeaioa. The city atithoritien had Kubjoctcd nil i^ime
bMuglit into Vienna to a tax of b\x. Icreuzer* per head, and the iin[)oab

• TbM* %rt no wU in the Smith Ruction rtreaais. nor in anj- irf the river* ficiwine
intolho Hark Sen. till wruYirc nt a verj oonri'lcmUc diiiauctfrum tin; MU. Seat
leaat I vai auured by a piTnoD wi-1 seqaalntcd with them.

FISUMONOEnS AlTD DEAI^ERS IK OAKE.

irn.9 Ii^!m1 even oii evory little wiM diu-fc and teal from tb» Danube lereU.
A* thr»r smaller articKs rouUl not bear bo hesvy ft texation, the Irndc
iu ihfta ctued almost entirelj. Hereupon the dealen found th(Tn«i?lrM
«blig«d to mtnownt <n tbe antlioritu^* thp mstnns of the iiijurr (Ion»
them ; tbat twjr bad U'cn Accustomed to "bnng half a miBion yroily of
tlie*e anialler biida to Vienna, which weir now aern brought at all; tliat
nuitiK'N iif pnsottR who luid frnlned a livHihtxxl by <nt«)ii»g t^nl and
wild-duck, wwe now mddMtlj tlirown out of emplov, and thj^ h«nce it
would be neceosarr to impoec llic tax onW on the larger kinds. 1'he re-
noiHtraiue wu atteoded to, chletly at tne instance of one wealthy and
iofluOntial ttadcanan, with whom I l>c«u»c aiy|ijainl«tl, and I found mn^
ocouioo to admire tlut vast anttm of liis doaliaga, and the extent and
Tarietj of hi* iufomialion. To buy a piec« of ^iii« from the hunter, and
giw it to the cook to be dRttod, seema so very simple an affair, that H is
aol easy at lint to uodnvbuid bow it should ^ivt: n man any position m
the state. The links of our aonal tiansact'unis, lionevrr. arc like those
of tlie wtenees, so intimately coniweted one with the other, that it is
Marccly poanble to emry on iny o«« branoh on a ^miid »«il«, without
becoming in bodic tiivamiro fnniiliiir with othcnt. It wottid be differ-
ent if tlw stag had only flesh; lie would then concern the oook onlv.
JBut hi* aiitlcn arc wanted by the turner, hi* skin )ty the tanner. Tfic
{rather^ of the bitd* are i>f um in innny tnidc*; tlio nat»nili»t is often
indebted to the civility of tlio deali^r in nild fowl. Tlie grntidces find
it worth while to give hint good words, to incTvuso tlie jnuft nf their
hunting- grounds, or to wcure the ropply of their kitchens, lijs con-
nexion extends even to the imperial court, for it in known that on estra-
ordinaiy occannn^ wtdi sa a visit {mm the heir to thi> Kussian throne, ho
niay be relied on for extraordinary cuppltce, luch oa a Polish vUc, or a set
of ItiisHaa beathcocks.

As I was already partially informed of tlinte lelatinns, I wss not at all
surprised to find my |>aine merchant a cUver, eoU^teotd man, w^
Bcquunted with many branches nf natural history, not ignorant of ana-
toiti} and S'enlogy, thorouglily iofonned <>f idl ttiat related to the rhace,
and tlte manner of life and habit* of tli^ nnimAl? ; one whn had studied the
wmln of Cuvier and Buffbn, and could sevcTcIy criticiie the csn^^nition%
flmnishes, and estravngaot assertions of t)ie latter; who spoke of C-Jtuiit X.,
and Prince Y., at of [lersons witli whom be vwt well acqnaiotMl. and
rsbitod how tlio goi-emmcnt had had it in contemplation to effect pomo
ebange in the game rautirm as be called them, but bad desisted on his
reprssen tnti wis, ^or did it afterwards excite my astonislunent, wlicn 1
mml an wtist cmplnjcd atnong' thu antlers of ^■arioiis kinds, and amonj^ the
ptatlcr casts of differ<:nt drwriptioiis of snimals. While I was with my
meHthaol, there came a professor of nilurai hirtoty, and said to him, *' I
sm MOK, my dvar Mr. >. to *MeU about a litltc, and see if vou have any
tbin^ new for me." And ho wns foUowed by a gentleman who nUo came
to tmeti about, and invite Mr. N. to a hunting-party. These dealers in
game are as loud of the )ieculiar odour of the wild creatures they deal in,
H mannon arc of tbcir pitch and tar ; and nsc the rsjmsiwMi tmell
sbrnt as a technicnl term lor a \'isit. I " tmelf often in at the bouse of
Mr. J»., and slways found some interMting people tliere. Tbow who hare
much to do with uutore arc almost always inteitatii^. One dny I met

THE PRA'mCHBLWBIBI

there a StiiiaD clumoH Iiimter, w)it> rrUtwl to me laany uiterrattitg
aJvcnluies V liiJ niti witb in iniramt of (Ko» unimab. Ohierviug that
I ocnuiouaUr made b, note of vthtH 1 iieard, b« siud, " Ah, vrrilv it all
down, «td ftl toll you somct Hiiig about (lie cunoiiiK of the clumois tJ»t
no one hu heard befote." Th^i nronnnfl ypur he hod found n ^is (fi>niale
chonioii) ready to Itrin^ fortlu lie had followed bcr for eight <JavM to i«e
wliere sliu would dt-ptwt lier ywing. Sunictinics he took off his fluw-t,
and climbed ou )u« biirc fitct \i\f> a cut ; aiul wux wlton lie hiid to cluniber
vp thp 8tcq» face of a rock, be cut off aJl tiie button* from bis clothes itiat
they might not make a "jingle." At lost he discorcml tlic two youiig
onoi in a niche at the top of a high rock, in u " kastt," u tlio Itutitf n call
it, Th« little one) were aporling amitnd tliftlr mother, who glanced fnin
tune to timo down into the valley to watch for any ho»titu approacli. To
avoid being seen, our hunter made a (freat circmt, and io reached a path
that led to the " kastl." tlxnctly in front of the nlclie tlio rock dievcendwl
pcTpciidiculurly to on immense d<-]>tli. At tliu back na« another 8t«ep
aesceiit. Some fragments of rock formed a kind of bridge between the
larger masses, but tlteac were placed loo high to be accessiblo to t)iP liltin
one*, and could only bu available for tlw.-ir molLcr. The hunter rejoiced
as he contemplated thin position, and prrMerl u|)Oii tli« nnimaU vrlinse
escape eeenied im{}a5jible. When the old one caught sight of hitii, and
iticojiurt^d with a glance the unfavourable i!LS|K>sition of tbo rock*, slu^ gpning
upon llif hunttT with the furj- that niatcrnnl hive will brpalha into the
most timid creatunw. Thp danger of »iicli atlm'kn fwm the chainoiB ii
ioH from the thrust, which is i>ot vcrj' violent, thnn from the endeavour of
Hit animals to fix the poiTibj of tht-ir ImniH, which arc bent llko lish-hook>.
0OmewhcT» in tlie legs of the hunter, and then rjnftu him backwards down
the precipices- It happens sometimes that the cnamoi* and hunter thus en-
tangled roll into the abyss together. Our hunter wa* ia ao condition to
£re nt the advancing chainoiM, ajt he found hoih ba.nd!i necewary to sustain
himself nn tho narrow path ; lur thvrefon' warded nfF the blows as well z»
he could with liis foot, and kept atill odvaucing. The anguidh of th«
mother increased. She dAshed back to her young, coursed round them
with loud cries, as if to warn them of the danger, aiid then leaped upon the
h«fbro-natned fragments of rocic, from which th<: micftnd hut more difficult
egreaa from the j^itln was to be won. She then leaped dov^^l n^iii to her
little oiie», and seemed to encoumge them to attempt the leap. Iti vntn tlw
little iToaturM sprang and wounded their for^thendii nj;ainst the rocks that
irere too high fur tlieni, and in vnin the mother ncpea-tcd a^iii and ajpiiu
ber finn and graceful leap to sliuw them the wav. All tliis was the work
of a (vw miiiiito!, whibt the hunter had again itdvanced some stepi nearer.
He was joat preparing to make the last vftwrt when the foUowitiK picture,
which was the particulitr circuiiistancB he referred to in speaking of the
chamtttt' cunning, in«t liifi astonished eyes. The old cliaiuoia, fixing her
hind teg) firmly on the rock behind, liad »trctcbcd her body to its utiitost
length, and planted her fore feet on the rock above, thus forming a temporary
bridge (if her back. The litt!(t ones teemed in a minute to comprehviul
the design of their mother, sprang upon her like cats, and thus reached the
point of safety. The picture only lasted long enough to i-iialdc tht-ir jnir-
iiier to make the Intt »tep. He xprang into thu nichi*, thinking hinivlf
now BUTt of the young chamois, but all three weic off with the speed of

the vini, Knd a rounle of thaia thxt fin seal a(V«r tlie Tugitivfle, mor^y an-
aaunoed by Ui^ir «cbo to t]i« turrounding rocks, Uutt be hftd hiimc^ his

T)i« cluimoli are mora nnmeroaa in tlie ISrol thnn ia •Switxerlimd, atul
more nunuiroun in ibe Styrian A]|ii titan in tli« Tvml. The wild soatl
come only ai far ai the oppocitc wcctcra end of tLo iiVlpine cbajii. Ihty
hare been quite drivpn nvray from tho eastern and nuddle [icirtions, tlie
Ughcit and most iuacwssible aiimnuU of th« Snvoyui Alpn niono afford
%t present that def;rc« af tolitudc and rocky vrtldncsi which u ntjutsite
for ibcm. Tli^y anr now protected in Savoy by a rciy severe law, wliich
eondocRDs to death any pereon who shall kill a wild-goat. XevertlioloBa,
th«rc are pMpIc who i^annot witlutand the temptation nf lumtng at these
homed kiDg^ of the Gmiiui and Jidinn Alps, aim it is Mud tlicrc oro at ihia
moment in the prisomt of Savoy oeveral of th«M! adventurous linnten, who
Itave be«n condemned to d^th, and have had their sentence commuUnl into
twenty yean' iuipm^iament. IVo yean ago a couple of Uving niumala of
titis spwies pn«)i(-«l through Sleiiiin oit tln*ir way to Rtiana, a present froin
the ruler of Savoy to the eni|>rror. I h«anl that some time ago a Vi«Qna
dealer had ofTcred a large price for one, and tliat in cotu«queuce a Savoyard
had shot an old one nttd delivered it in Vienna. The ninii waa diicovrreu and
puraued by tho Toyid hiiiilKnieu, but wa.* hivky enough to cwajie bv cho
f^lmdun into Swittcrhmd, ^c paths being bettor known to him than to hts
ponoers.

My Vienna friend told tne that hy means of his af(|uaiutance in Tlun-
gkiy and Boh(>niia, he often T«ooivMl rare animal* not directly connected
wito his buEincHS. and that scorvely an animal roamed the Austrian
forests of which some specinuen had not visited his shop. He took mc
afterwnrda into bia ioe-cellar where I saw a peat Torietv of creaturea
Ivin^ on th« ice. He hod the cellar hun^ with llun^anan tnats, and
the ice wni likewise corrred with mata. lie said that it was not sufii-
eitotiy kiMWD to the owners of iee-cellaiv, tliat by means of these mats
thaioe could be much lender pir^nriMl than when it came into immediate
contact with the air and ihv walls and ttiat a smaller f{uiiniJty of it waa
iherefttre luffifMent. Among his planter casta of heads and antlera he lind
IboM of an enormous elk. He had given several eopiei; of the latter to
Aostriaa noblemen, whe niahe^J fur them to decorate thvir castles, a fancy
that never occurs to th« gentlemen of Lithuania and Poland, the native
twuAry of tbeae ereatnre^ We may see by all this on how large n ucalo
tbe game dealers nf Vienna cany on their biisinei«), and how highly i(«
naourcea are dnrdoped. It were to be wished that the leanied and cul-
tivaisd on their eido would eometimes turn the knowledge and *|)e<-(al de-
tails which some people have obtainedGrom nature, alittle more to account

StJMMEn-KIGOTB DBEAMS AND FLOWER FESTIVALS.

In the Sans-sonci gardens at Modliog, there are nine tents of tactcfullv
draped rtii and wlute elathi, pitched in a meadow, each of wliidi is dedi-
cated to Oit* of (he Muses, whose namm, embroidered on flags, flutter over
the tops : CaUiopd Clio, Kntcrpc, and so on. In the centre alaitds A
tsnth, whereon a Vienna lender flourisliea as Apollo, ai»] n>gi>les the Muaat
with Strauss'* walttcf. The muies are young nuideua and old women,

146 BtraatER-Kicnrs' dkeasks axd flovek festttals.

otteDiled hjr cftralten aod chililmi, wlio reaort l« UtOM Domodic lury
tomplM to ilnDk coffcu. Takiitg refmluDeDU in tbu poetical ttvU im
ijoite in the U<t« of the \^«!tina peopU', ukose orient&l fancy dclt^aU m
nio^iug Um loftifiit matters nitb ilxMc of eiwrj day Ulv, luul alwajrs aclocts
^ mort high ioaring insaiptiooj Ear the Bort trivial tfaiogi,

Tbo Vmbu f^^ ■'" ulce great po*wl«to( who will adtnit wisdom
uaij diimMd in tlie laotWi but t>i«r na*« rofleelioD enough to rtcoKsita
tl>« hand of dwtby that minglvs 'u\ t&c mosk buignifiaiiit occoitciiom ot '
life. Therefore thDy will driok their coffee id the t«inpleof llw Muaea, ami
swallon the bitter draught of truth Bw«ct«iied with Um aucat^plum of
cheerfuloca, Hencie thv (-xtraordiiiary draioati* oenoiue w RauBitafs
iDTontioD, the Sibvls as old maids, the G«nii as bowliiig'«T«Bi att*ndaatl^
the conjtirora and tnajpcians from Wanudin atul DniuiuamiiiWQu, who poux
Jbcth uiiwearit^y trittin^ jests, ood spoctivo wUdoon in Swabias and lluu-
garian G«nnnn. Tlw tiuMof Raitmusd's pieoM and thdr |Mt«vuliug M^lo
an prMty wpll knnwn amongM Uf, not M the rtylo in wbicli Uiw pToi>Ttfitor3
of pbc«9 of public rcBort inrite the public to their ouchantii^ popular
iitatiTalA. I piud at fintc lilUo alleatioD to the anaounoements with whicb
«wy ooracT uf tl)o gtrvvts vas covorod. But one evauing late, i. e. at
devcn o'clock, ot which hour Virninn is m rtill lU a inouw, I luvt k lOMl
laden with an enormous ma&s of priuteiL |japer, busied in pulling down Uw
old billn and posusj^ up new. I asked liim to lot me look at iioiue of lliefa,
and ho thnin down a whole? bnb h<-r<>riA mc. Ilerr Lanncr nnnAuitc«d ft
ttbe with saw dooontioni and illuniiiiaUDiis, undur the Biunc of 'A Swn-
mer-Niffhl's Dream." Ilerr Strauss had found a yet more attractive tille k
fer asother f^to, which was to take place at Sperle. liy the gliramcriug ■
^;bt of the lantern I ivad " Fiuicy aud llarojony ia the ioic*tiJited n>aC-
BMntaof Joy, a rural flower festival aiid hall." On a tliird tlio "re- j
newned Oaum" promised a " KeitirB soir^' and conversazione in hia t
£lynum." Four ebaractenatio baud* were aiuuntucvd in the various lo-
cautJut, and IWtlier " the mach adniiriHl origund rcprL-amtatioiu uowly
anangad for tha p cas o nt Masoii." «>i)ulil tak« plaov us followB :

III A«ia (ono part of tha gardens) would he dinplayed three aaloona, bril*
lisutly illuininatod in the oriental taste, on avenue uf palia Uwca aa a pnn
iDi.niiidL>. adorned with the newly •invented Iraiiijiatout Iris garlands, and at
^e end the aplc-niltd princ^ijiol vii-w, giviii;; nn nll^|Mical picture of Asia,
bcyotid which tho inuncians would iie hcai-il hut not seen.

In vlc^rit Europe (another pait of ibe ganlAun) a Roman triumphal
STcli would be changed in a niomeut to an nmphith^ntrp, wliornu the
OlvTiijiic gain>» were to bw pn<duv<d in appropriate co»tuine.

lu i^mericft (a lawn) would be performed the admired Railwiiy pussago
to Aiutraliii. led by the gracefully adorned liuliu aud gonllenMiu, Apollo,
Pluto, Diana, and Minerva.

Ill Afnca (a fourtli part of " ElyBium"), besides many rnvourlte per-
fonn»ncK#, Herr Stontdi, trvaa BtN-lio, would have the honour uf axhihttin^
maiiy new feati of dextwity, and, in the splendiiUy decorated llantm, an
Afncun lummer fete would be given.

As a souvenir of tba convrruiaiont', every lady trould recelrc, " in a
tetive maanw, two vinvs of Elyniiim," with an ctplanation. For tho
greater gratification of tho re8p«c<«d visitvn, the acmoaplwric aii' would
be impregnated with lliu newly •invented >Sch<mlminn flow<ir i«rfumo.

1 belicfe that uot in India itself could a (6te for tha multitude oh an-

smiMEE-iaGnrs' dreams aito txowee rEsriVALB. 147

WKOUMd ia men ponpoos fiufaion. I noticed main others

. . anuownced, M
'NigjfatiiD Pan£w, "The Dsdc? of the SvlpU,' &c Eiwh niqiassed
tlw otl)cr in lii^h-flown fitodca. The ohkf ulureiDtato to til Uie*e pl;u:e9
are dancing mm good launct and iht propiieton endeavour on mtai iiv-
caaioiu to procure aniDB ukw compoeiuous of die fa^-ourtU! vnmpo««ra,
Lanner, Sttmuas, or Fslirbach, oiiiipc»<>d ^^Lprcasly for tKu cveninjr. This
mvMc ha^ g^nerallv eome vcrj BtnlLuag- tiUv. A iivw trolU of Straiiia's
wiu vaUrd tlw " Ek-cirk Spurk," wiotKcr the " ETcning Star," a third
" Tdors of Joy." Miwical toiiios atiil " Hamumjoua pictum" nr« almocc
always iuut«d with UiMe £Me«, and how far the compoivn of Virnsa go
with their " hjinnnnjp painting" iiiav he mch fnnn tin- fuHowiDje; sprafica-
tion iif (neh n " j >aiuttiig" pnxluwil when tjie Mchducal conqueror of Isolde
w« th» h<tro of th* (lay.

" StomuDg of Saidc (a new muac&l picture).

" Flnl Part. Approach of the EngfiJi FUwt.

"SmomI Part. Approadi of the AuMimn FImI.

** Thatd Fkrt. Chanwterwtia of the Allies, nod the Eaemy.

"Fourth Pnrt. Summons to gun^ndcTf rcfuaal. diwmbaiWtioQ, at-
taek, cai)nnna4lin^, bonitiordnicnt, storming, and conflagration.

" Fiftlt Part. Joyout dtmoiMtmtion* and thaclueiriags to the \'iclot3.

"SUth Part Celebration of \'ictoiyr and triuni|%ant march."

No partipa in Vienna are so numerous as the muaeal ons, which haw
their fmroificatiOQa from the high««t aooiety to the rery lowest. StrauM^
tlie moiit orlcbrated concrrt mastiTi Ltumer tlw moat origiuaL. and Fahr*
bacJi, also well known to txnt, an tlic traders and danigodi of tbeae mee^
ings, the tnbunes of the paoplo in Vivmia. Like tb« Bodui tribanto^ tbey
exert UmiilflM 1 to the utmost to enlarge and »tr«iigtlieu their ]>arty*
WlMn at Sperte, or in the [luhlic gardens, they Houriih tlicir him-t in rlo-
gant littlp t«nipl(», njiiidA a grove of otangO'trooa, rfaododeodroiis, and
other plants, and «xecuto ihtf nrwvit and moot ^octire compontiona witli
their jici&dijr orgaiuMd bandf, (Strauss enrols none hut BoaemionSr) they
ae«ra in n mawnn the cluers and leadan of the public. Bvfbra tlieni stents
• K*tfiiing thTong. with whom they ok constantly coauettiog, Dodding to
tiieir fnrndA in the midit of their work, and ginng titem a Cntdidly unile
ax they »xi>f ute aoow difficalt paaaage. Erciy diMingiiiab«d affort t« n^
wardod bv lood appUtiH', and new or farounte piceut by a. Btonny " Da
Capo." Even in toe common danciiig-rooma, the minic is bo little ee-
muBi^, that the danee i* often inlrmipted by a tumult »f apjilaum for
the munnnn* and compoaer*. Even at the f^Ici uf the Sdiwara'iiberga
and LichtWMteiiMb % eoiuD JaraUwr (ndoiatanding nitJi the favourite' nm-
sinans mar be ote er fe^ wfakhr eaiODg- tlw people less entliunasiie in tJw
matt«r of dance-muai^ would be tboagfal: out of place.

StrnuM and his colkoguet are always on the look out lor ttew iavcnliona
in the field of niDsic. In almost every Mason tltcy produce soaw new
thiluuy or daaging ioatrument. or some nlraonlinan manceavre on an
old ene. Lut summer, in a Pat Pouiri, StraoM maoe all his vioUoict^^
vnlonccIUats, and basMs, lift up tlicir voioce and uug the Bhine Song, " Sie
aofbn ikn niekt hahm," which, witli the baMM cmecially, had a very coouq
cfiiMTt. Lanner entieed th« public l>y m«>Bns of^a young man, who snng
a duet between a gentleman and a lady, in whiai the higlt and dtdi-
tftle tones of the woman w«« an aerunitely iinitateal an tlw di-pth mid
fltnmgth of the man's race. No mmical loiree ended without on imitation

148 STUUER-XTCHTS* DREAHS JkXD FU>nT,R FCCTtVALS.

of Um npnrt nf firrtrmlcs, wlwniii tlie rushing coarse of ibe rocfcit, «n^
th* fpukltDj^ ))Lu of tlic whsels, nnD^lnl io tjui died smy nith the mil-
■icol tones. Tbe next day theoyou «« fttrs Io ntd m ha'^ article in one
of the journ&lf brginnbig' in ihU fashion : '* Again hu our jmlly taU^tatA,
our in«x)ututible StraoH (or tanner <«r FanrtMch) utcoUhcd und m-
^iaat«d tu w7Lb K new eflfort of hit ndmnaUa genius. Ail trbo had the
good fortune to be aiuong his audieoce," Ac

There ia • printin^imce in \'»«iiia, the lole emplojnoent of vhieh 10
the anaouneen>«nt of thc«c &t**, plaJ^ ftnd concrrtd, notliin^ cUc bung
prtnted tiM-re but placanla. TIw propcietor of this esl«ti]ifflment, Mr-
Idnhfeld. hu man^r people iu hu *emce, who thorougUjr undentaad tlw
meet Mrildog waj of annouDctng nieh mutton to thp onet poUie, by the
jndidou* nmngement of the aDuriiuf wonU " Bal brUlaut'' " Magic illu-
in!nstion,"''Ro>*e-tlnCedgann€nt«or[4e*5ure,**&c. I vtntedthiaprinting-
oAuv, when Ui« readen were cmpl'ijied in conv«tini(|> tbo style and ortfao*
grafiliv of wuters, Ac, tad preparing their eloquent productions for the
pret*. The loonster types aro all of wood ; die effect of the great black
letton upon nien'R eye* and fancies is alnny* njieculaletl on, and the pic-
torial announe«incHt« of estatee for u!c bv Inttery, whrn all th« lelten are
oompoaed of pictures of nurtln and rural views, and where every niillinn ia
npieaeated entwined with the elegant flowery wreath of Iiomi, arc r«a11y
Biaaterpteoea in a pcycholo^al a« in a sylajfrophic point of view. Tlie
mnunaJ word«, or tlioae that do not frcoucotly occur, are compoaed, as oe-
tamtm may require, from tingle letters, but the celebrated oameft, Stmxsa,
Lanner. ini Sperl, — Klj-siuni, Prater, — Golden Pear, Sic, an «it out of
dnzle blocks, and many duplicate* arc ulwayi kqit ready for aso at lllrah-
lell'jt. It ii the same with the stuiidinc phrases such aa " Splendid Ilh]>
imnation*," " iJaDcinfF Soiree," kc. Whoever has arrived at the bonotm of
•tcreotypc at IIinihf(.-Iil'( priuting-oSoe, may deem liiim«lf a celebrated
man within the walb of Vicrma.

It is fiomcwhat remarkable, although natural enou^ that even theae
kind n( aimouneempnts and poating-bilk on which the mcti innocent
tilings in the world are made known to tlie pulilic, arr culgect to the
cenionthip, in faa to a double c«neorahip ; finrtly, to the supreme censorial
•uthoritioa who bt-rtow tlw '* Imprimatur," and secondly, to the mbordi-
note police authorities who make any emcuda^na held occeMar}' accord-
ing Co cireumatances and localitiej.

" They play them a trick for all tlint iwmptimen,'* sud my bill-sticker,
whom I encountered in the nijlit as before mentioned. " Lately tliero
wan a ball at Spcrk-. where tbcy danced till tix n'clock ici the m»niitig,
nllhnujrh tbev announced on their bill tltat it whji to end aAvr iiiidnig^ht ;
ami wheu they were called to oec^Aunt by the police, they taJd that aix
o'clock in the morning was after tnidntght.

A Mr. vDii X. has farmed from tlie goTemment, for an rmntuU sum of
fiv* thoiuand Horitu, the exclusive privilege of putitiii^ bills about the
town, and lie Iiaa the rif^bt of mineuditig, on gates and public buildingSf
great wooden frames, on wliicti bill-s Jire pasted. If he find, elaewhore, a
■uitabie place for audi things tho city aathoritipB gi*e him permijHion to
make use of iL By Chriitmoj presents to the upper survaiite, he aUo pcQ-
cures leave &om the owners of kouM« to make use of their walls.

u»

THE rSOJECTED NEW QUARTEtt.

Odb of ttic rooit interest!!)^ things I saw in ^*i»llna wm tlio beautifully
oxoculi><l wnndeii inodol of the projected imprawnietitB mid lutdittonH tv U10
ma«r part of the city ; fire of the tnost oouidenble bftiikcn in tlio city,
Kos, Poutlinn, Eakelnf, Mntrr, and Curtli, Iirtc oiiiMl for Uie pliin and
oxecution- This plan ia — in Europe nt \east — so unuauAl, on so mmi %
Mjte, imd to judicioua, that ou« cmuiot but wish it success, and linger >
little in the consideralion nf mi tiiidcrtaltiii^, vhicli haa for itd object so
ooiuiderable an eitonsioii of tht- city.

PorhajM in no ci^ of Germany does tHer« «xift to noeuliu- a KbtioD
between the citjr properijr so calleil, and its suburbn, as id V'iGiina. Four*
fifths of the populatioi] of ViRnnti live in the Huburba, Ac Prrngvo, the ci^
wbioh oSifTS ttut niott direct contrast in thn roopect, in almost wholly tity.
The rvtuoi) ii that Vieoaa, ocrtirithataiidinj: its atitiquit}-, nttmiicu at •
later period the dl^tnitv of being 3. lovereign's residence tlunn Pra^o.
~ I tbe twelfth centuiy Vienna occupied only the fitth part of the preient
» of the city, and only a fortieth of tlic whok- niace, inoludinij the
fulurbs ; at that time Prapio had neatly two-thirds m it« jireteut circtini-
(vrencc It 11 only withia the last two hundred yenr«, eiiicu the time of
Rudolph the Second, whose gcnerjil residence wu Prapie, that the em-
perorfi have resiileil constantly in Vienna. From thut period theextousiTO
tuburbii have grown iirniiid tliu lit^art of the capital, and hence the coO'
tnst lK!lvre«ii thti coinni^itiii^nesa and rcculanly of plan in the former,
and the cxtra\-agant maxo of bnildiiig- withui tlie walls of the city. The
■trects are narrow, the bauae;) mx, seven, and el^ht stories hij^h, and build-
ings, whose grandeur <tttmiu:itU a great public iM]iiare for their display, are
■tuck into narrow aUeyl^ and loit in a forest of houses. In many of ths
ttrevts it has been impossible to nialce a trottoir half an ell in hrcadtli, tho
carriages are often ennipellfd to drive so Kliarpiy against the walU and
windows of the housei, tliiit it is nn onbiinry inaiiifuvrc of the pedeitrintig
of Vicuna, to save thcmsclrea from a crush by leaping on the «tcp of tho
vehicle. Carriages are sonieliiuet tu Iw seen with jieoestriaus clinjring to
it before and behind, and full often may iliey Imre nccasioii to thank Ileavcm
for hutui),; fvund a house-door open in time of need. T!ie numtroua
Dioriuglitun-s, or Dirrchliataer, thiough priiate Lnuaci and courtyaitLs to
wliicli tlie public has n conventional ri^t of way, are of no amall t«rtie« to
idaftiiana. 1'he whole city a piomid throufcit mul tbr<iiij;h with tlicni,
ta an ant Mil, and tliOM wlio hare the clue of this laliynnTh, may run a
! coiutdenLlo dijlancw ouder shelter, and avoid tlio dangers of the oairiagei
■Jtogethor. In no other eily of Gennauy is there so gre<at or so nnintcr-
npted a stream of vehiclHi; the comtr nouM« are, in coiiseijuenCT;, paw
ticiilarly protected against tliis daiic^roiis floml. All <>f them m the heart
of tlie eity have Urgu tinnca placed slantingly, armed willi an iron cap and
jnngs, ■• u>ick •• a man's (!nger, and ilie extreme Mnootbnesa which lh«w
^3oUs of mail osually dinilay, kIiowk Iinw ahtm cainagea must hare gnmnd
r^jninit thom. Ttie tmhidiy pedestrian is provided with no suuh defence,
^fend it mar be a ([Qcstiou wbetmr more penplo have tltcir Umba cnwbed bj
dinriot wlici-ls in Vienna or in IJengaL

All these erils have of late becomo wore palpable with tho gronth a£

tile tuborbt, all of wtiieli niturally hkve Uieir rvndczvtHit iii Ou owfa* of
the city; not only liiire dio petmie of rank wlio live in fummer withont
the liuM, their vriuttrr pft]scc« wittnu, but ibe iMOTcli&nU uul mauurocturcrf,
altliuugti ttinr dwelling-iKnuct mny hv nitliaut in the suburbs, mual have
tlicar inopi, warehuuK*, uid bunneti loctlititw in th« city itadf ; and tho
majority of th« in)i&bitant«, for one r^aKOn or otJu'c, dean to prt(»*« » IJttltt
pieti A trrrr tlierfi, SJml op ni ila narrow mijiilc-*^ Krniour of bucions,
iralU, aii<l (iitc'twn, tin' nty etaviM. i-xunid iuvlf u die suburbs liave doQt.
wliich Kave nmti^hwi further anA further iiitn the leve! countrj-, mmI «<r«l-
law«il up riilsg? aft«r TillagR in *n aralBiiclie of bouses. A« iii all other
citiw of ChnoBny. the old wry-necked, crooked ttreett of Vicuna haTe been
patcltod and polished, the poiuiafiv tioiucs have be<en increased in number
ytbeteter it wm poMibk; fomc buildiugx that -wwc «fp«cially in the way
have been bougtit at a lil^h price and pulled clowu, all prcjet^ions and es-
cireicenoea have be«n pared awav, and Uie pavement laid down is as gooA
MM can be wi^ihed. But in au di eitr like tnts, wh'ere the Louses sUmA Itlce
rocks, and tlic tUvcta run thp:>u;;h tlicni like ^Iie« and mounbun paaaea^
improvement U no easy matter. luid :ill efTorts of tlie kind lug far bibind tW
waata of the inereaaiiv population. The prnnd difHi'idty is tlie fertificatioa
of tbe inner city. Tma iMcenitnle!* a luxiudth of space uot leu llian from
tliTM to four liundred fiit]iani» (the Glacis) between the wall and the siiburba.
If the works cmild be done awity with altogvthcr, and the glacis built nvcr,
the city and the suburbs would form one hand*(imc mid commodioiM
wliolc. The advanlarc would be iminen«e for the iuliabitancs, for a rerj
easy calritlatinu will »linw, tliat tli* intuiiteinuiw of tlie fortiliojilioiis costs
them miUiotLs yearly, directly and indirectly. Living would (w iiii.-Ale(ilably
dieaiHT, and gruat sums would !» saved in conveyances and other maltcrs
thereivilh connected; the^* would live in hantlnuner houses, and traffic and
poptdation would inercAiic from nil thr^e cfiiixe*.

HowBwr. from ptrfitieal tDotiv<c8, ihc f^orcrnment cannot reaolTr vpoa
givinf^ up the fbrtincation*, althouE'li we h&ve abundance of unfortified ca-
[Htats, and many arc of opinion, that in ease of a war, those of Vionos
would be of little een-ice. The part of the j^tacif between the Scotch gate
and tho Danube channel, is purtinilarly hroad, tuid on this rircumitance
tlio asMwialioti of hnnkco-* hare founded tlt^r qjand plati for the extension
«f th* inner cit>'. They pmpojcd to dealroy the old furlifications io thia
part, erect new ones bejoiiil. and thus gjiin a fn-e spiwe fm- new building
of not tesa thao eighty tliouHand upix.re f:ith()rii>i. They bave vffered to
effeet llio removal of tha old fortificntiotis at their o«ti etpeafe, and havo
bad a plan drawn up by the architect Forster, nctordin^ to which tlio new
qiLirter of the city may be inoit comutodlou.'ily united to the old mtes.
Tho public buildings, tlie ehurHies, thcatras, fuuntaina, monuments, galM,
Ac, which Ibe new <|uartcr will require, thct« f^vntlenicn will also croct at
tbeir own ciprniv, nna give ctrnipcnsation for tbe lost ground of thf- glacit,
on eondition that the sites for private hou*os shall be fcukl for their lulvnn-
ta^. As beftire said, they have caused the oliu), in all ltd details, to be exe-
euied in wimd, and exhibited to llic public. The olil dnrlt misshapen Viennni,
in wliosv olwcaritJM so many a Inir pearl ii IcMt, wnuld thereby gain a
bright regular magnifii-ent appendix, whoso Pijual miglit he sought in vain.
A lurgi^ open place with niununientu to the Cmpcror Fruncts, and the
first »tiiti-^inen of his time, and n cliuruli, in the Gutiiic Ntyle, is prtiposed as
Ae centre of the new (jaartor. A tplendd range of dnivUinj^Wiaw, built in

THE qCARTEE OF THE KOBILITT.

151

dUfercni tt ylm, to %triA » i^m^tttMe monotony-, u to form « qna^ abog
the Duiube, Mionutfiwntwhichat jin>seatisaltogeth«rw*ntin^in Viflnns;
mai Uhmo poliUc btnUitics dot in the wont eonditiou, tlic Exi-lianf^, the
Poat^ifficn^ • liieatR^ witb two Bvpplmnentaiy btnldings intended for in"
■ IJMiu M toe tfaa aitt, and an tatliBVra ^aiur, an pi«j«etMl oa a tmy
■nnd K!a3e. On thu rivrr thor |im|MiM> to Emm inA» wiUi larj^ wtf^
omuci ; ontl four now liriilci^ to Mirrcspoiul witli strecU alrcadr eiiathi|^,
•re to unite tlie old ritv with tlie new. Tlid projected new street! tie to
cotiilnue i)u> ekl an^ nnil )-ot miunttin n nymroeby with «m^ nther.

Thu model lias borji rstubited to tfao cni|)cror /mi tlic nrclxluke^, ■■!
adminrd by them, and thercTore bopea arc cntcrtaiDed that pennunoa
will be fjnvn ta carry it intn executioD.

The chief nibjcct of liesitution is agaia the IbrtHicationj ; in i«morin^
ajwrt, it is fnucd Uip whole may be entlaof^trML Mifrht not the iiivvntioa
of the archduke Maximilian, io the Toirpre of Line, help them out of ihs
diffionlty. The whole eitv, vuboHn inclodcd, might be girdW with them,
Wkd thud the whole Innufrkt within a care!*; of fortificatioiu. With ru{)ect
to the ^UciK ilxeir, full of moimumnuf arenuM ofaclcly crMH, dujty >{i*o«^
and nwuof y ditobea, tharc would be Itttlo Ion. It is too lar^ to M loM
«at M • guden, as has been done iu aonie dtics. But smaller aud men
modest spaoea m^lit he left free to be employed for this piir^iose.

TOE OUABTEB OF THE NOBn.ITT, AKD THAT OP THB
HARVFACTUUBKB.

The mott nnimnlcd Mrta of Vieooa Lie roand Stephen's Place, the
CralwB, and the Ui^ 31arket ; the quictrat part'? are the '* Itui;^" from
the ^au of tha Mioarites, the Iferrengaue, Teinfidb tHreet, the battle and
fr«fit SehealcengaasQ, &e. " Our great people line ben," said a Vicotia.
Bias to tnev " and here it is sUU, fUU as a mowe." There is not a shop
ia tlie wb(j* uei^bourtiood, no bun hum of trafBc It lains joha and
tliniMk in tha otliar stveel^ luid oae is put to it to keep from isodar tht
coaeb-wheels aad boraes' hoc& It swarms thera witb Croats, SlavMuaiu^
fimiooa. GeraiaDa, aud Ood Icnows what oatam heades, while nothing b
to he tami in the aristorTatic (piartpr b«t silfnt palaces, beCuro wImm*
doo« liT^-ricid laqoeva at« k>uiig-iu)i: as ii' liey were mastan, not only of the
houBFs, huLof Uw whole ttteet. la this «leot<|iiarter — tlic Tcin quattor—
ar« the paiacea of the liditanstaint, Stahrsnibargs, thuraelui, Featetica,
CoUoradeiv Esterbaays, TmUmanador^ and Seluiaboins. AntiquB
caeulcbeooi are displayed beTora the lioasca, datinf; frwa Rudolph of
Ilaiiibur;^ ar dwrieaugna, ami ihi> gnldan flaeca ^aama from tltc rooli.
If tho little sons of these ^raedoej dftmbar m«r the rooGi like tlw boy* in
olfavr towns, tbcy may eathicr aU manoer of aristocratic rviuiaieti-Dcos ajnoii|f
the vhimncy-pots. Ilere abo stand tlie proud editices of the HuD^arian
and Tntnfytranian Cboaoerics, the States Uonsev ^^'> (^ourt and Staia
Chaooeiy. tho Bauk, and tatoral of the supeiiur tribunals. Tba whole
Ipaoe oceopiad by boiUinga eo intportant to tlie canpire is not mora tbaa
two kondied fathoms u length and breadtiit there is morw than ooe pib*
lie square of tint sise in St. Potanburp^, and it may be safaly aasnted that
is BO other European kin|{di<m is the f^^cat nubiiilT so narrowly lodfsd.
31iara ai^ oavaitbeleH^ btuldioga here stately eoougu, if duly •eaCtorao, to

152

TITE UANrFACTCBEBS.

kdom & whole cApittl. Xot Far from th« Tcin qQUt«r, in Uw scigl&oir-
hood of tlii> Jews' Plan-, u flnotlivr wlicic thr tnanufuctuTert oonnvgntVi
Iiulcad of annorial bearings bi>fore tlie houses, w« ses the firms of ooUoa
•nd ailk nuuiuf*«turcn, wuvhoiu«3 fur clollis, tfaavls, woollen fabfia^
FBch&nii-iiKT cottoo jnnit white aud oolourei] knitting-cotton, silks, ataSa,
&c Tliese aiv oaly tlm wucliouMa from wliich ifoimi «rv »okl wholeMle
to the tnerchants; tne ivtul dwdcn an to Ixi fouiiJ «lnwlMi«, uid th» mm-
OuTadorin are iii iixe subuibj. There, especially in tb« n'««t«m part, — then
tre whnle iiunrloni of Uiem, all of rcccuc date. In times of ^orc Vteona
was a Roiiinii ciu'nmnipviit, tb«n clit^ Utile capital of tliv Aiutriui dukcf,
aiuoa;^ himdrod^ofoinenaGtrmau )nipi;ritil city, and nlthnngli, m tWinv
neriitl rt-sideiice, it became the centre of commerce for the empire, it is btii
»my tmi'ly that it lia* bw!n the ohi«f seat of maDufactori«f, whose articles
of to.«t» arc fcittcrt4 over all ports nf tlie Aiutnan and a great part of the
non-AuAtrian world.

Gumpendorf, Laimgrube. and Marialulf, are iJie suburbs iu vrMcb
nearly the whale noputution is employed iu manufactoHea. This is the
caso liVcntic iu tfw villap^ uf Fuufhuus, Suck&Iinus, and otben. Hvn
the simple and uniform dwelling of the weaTcis and spinnnn are sevii bjr
hundreds, and on enterinf; Itviin the Tein quarter, we seem to be ffntenng
ftiiothcr world. The rt\yr cotton couim titre from two directions, from
Egypt over Trieste, and from Amtrica and the West ludii-H htw Ham-
I burg. The jam dealers, spinnfrs, wetiver*. anil |)rintprsi, all lire near
each other, and the nierchandis* piuses from neighbour to neiehbonr, or
(rum quarter to quarter, till it rvadw.-) the baoda of Che merchants and
oonsiimerF. Some of tlie majiiifnctiin-™ haTO also establish men it in Bo*
hcmtn, where wag*s are lower, and setcrnl hnvf thorn mi the Saxon fron-
tier ; bqit these an; merely for show, little uork betug done there, thoug-h ■
great deal of Englwh twiil is «inujfg'le<i over Uie frontier. The Eiiglish con
liimiRh ^nm to the maimfacLupftn of Vioniia cheaper than tlutw! can buy
it fnMn thoir own spinneia in tlic suburbs. The tatter enjoy, therefore, a
protection in a fifteen per cent dtitv* which, however, is conmdcrably iv
Bnoed by smuggling. Li consequence of tliis protection, which tlie
wearers of Vienna do not dears, became, without it, they could purchaM
the Engli.sli yani mors cheajily, they ore constantly at feud with thuT
neighbour* ths imnnent. Both have their meetings and unions for tHe
probation of thsir separate interests, and both seek to mnke good their
oause with the authotitles. The vruavcrs have Utviy failed in their machi-
tiationt againsrt the prot^-ctive duty; the npiuinis, iievertlieleis, entertain
§nn for iu durnlimi ; without it, tJipy would not be able to miiko hi-nd
against tho Engliith. Be they a.s tliligent as thvy will, and let their
machines he ever to well eonitrurt^, the Kpinni;r» of Manchester, at the
fountAin-h(-ad of the comineivc of thi.' world, would still pwi^ess ttilvaif
tag«« too gr<'at to be competed with by those of Vienna, though with tiio
best will in the world. To mention one only ; tlm Maiichcsler spinnera
have a railroad to Liverpool, which enables tlieiu to piurhase the cnttoa
in finaller nitnntities, na they nmy want iL They may use it up to-day
to the last tlircad, and scud to-iuurrow to Lirerpool for a new supply, lb
13, therefore, easy to follow ereiy rariation of price, buy small ijuontiues
when it is dear, and larger when it is cheap; wliorea* the ipinnen of
Vivniiri. M'lifther tliey will or not, nnut tmke liirgc ijiuuitities at any price,
lest Uicir work should come altogether to a staud->tiU. The groat specu>

,tin, bsvB no vxistvnco iti ViMina. These tpcculatois
; poftkuM of yam, Uonuu» Ui« cliuuiielfl of tlio world on
open to them, uiil tliey are, coiueijueiitly, ftUnys iguir uf n niaikct for
tbeir wnrM. In Vicunn, ihty kimii ttLmiit vicJuiiivvly fur th« Austnan
monarchy. Tlwra U no intArmcaiatA purdiaser Wtweea th« weaver- and
sitiuaer, and Hm former will buy do mora ihua be has au immediate occa-
MOii for.

Tim a(]vanln|*ai which the Eiif^lish Dtanufa<;tiirct hare ov«r those of
Vienna, and iiidcvd over thow of Utc whole noiltl, the luaaufftcturen of
Vienna haro uain over the otlicr maDiifactiuers of the Atutriaii ino^
narchy. In Viennii, they h&ve the best information of wlmt i* wanted
by the Slavonioiu, Croats, Paten, TTtmn-lvauiant, nn^ from Viouna thtJi
wants and tastn ant supplied. Tltn dld'tiuhiniird ffnid stnlls used for the
upper Austrian caps are iiiuiiiifaclured in ViLTEia, »(> are the silver bultooa
in lue throtighout (luDg&rVi and ths blnck silk bondlcerehief^ with red
border*, whieb the Mii^itr ithe]iht!rd» Inist ruuml their Uiruats. It is the
Hune with htirtdreiLi of other anieh-«. Ileirifr h1k> t})i> head-i]uarteni of
&fi]iioi), Vienna not only suppliw then peuplo nith what they want, bat
witJi what they ought to want. ^'ieI]aa fashione, and Vicuiiu it-arca cxvr-
cite their iDJluencc not only alon^ tlie whole courM of the Danidiv to the
Blaelt Sea, but eroi in Poland and RuwJa, «xtandiiig tveit in aome ia-
•teicae into the Turkith territory.

Penoiui who understand these thinf>« do, indeed, Sdwrt that Vienna
pmductioiu will not bear a very severe exajninatioQ. "They are but
trumpery fabncncions," said a native, well acquainted witit London and
PariH. " Every thinp lierc ii. as il wcro. llmtrtt together. Wc of ^'i^nna
are frivolous and licldr, but our taatc U eooJ, and we look more to graec*
fill funna than salid qunlily." Compann^ them witli what London and
Pari* CMO produces tfau coay be true -, but if a line wore drawn from tlie
Baltic to toe Adriatic, uo city woidd be found east of it which could eota-
pare with N^enna in the quality, tact*, or h)v priee of its manufaoturec
Tbetr low price has often procored ihmt a «ale not only throughout Ger-
many, but ereu In America. They malie, for iiutanoCk onuunentnl elocki^
of au elegnnDe of which no dmwing-rooiu need be aihanwd, fur eight and
nine florins each, and bIwwI* fur t«n and twelve.

The aliawl man u fact ure is one of the most considerable; more to, in-
deed, than any other in ttiiiMIe or eastern Euriipe. Ttit; Ion pnco i>f tlie
ahawti haa produced a gnal deiuand fnr theni in Tiirliey. A xniiwl inanti*
&cturer, wbosa word I have no reason to ntietrust, thought there could
not be IcM tliau four thousand persons employed iii Vieana on thoee arti-
elea ; and tJiis biet in the more remarkable, as th« riic of this branch, of
manufacture dates only from the year 1812.

THE 8HOP8 OP VIESKA.

it would not b^ posrible to ^ve a very detiuled account of the thopa of
Vienna and all therewith connected i but I must entreat the reader to
accompany roe into some, which aflbtd aliundant means for obtaining ao
sequaintaiico nith Vicuna life, and furitith butter pictures of it tliaii do ths I
columns of tlie Allgtmeiue Zeitung. Of the shops fnr silks and fiuKW '
goods, QQue are at ptaenC iu higher feather than the " Laui«l Wreatha 't

tM THB SHOPS OP VIEVSA.

uid it IB wortliy cf a Tisic, wei? it only for tlie profonon of tbe itiiA of [
mil kii)d« di^tvywi tkvn. Ik-foro the " L^ii«l Wr«uli'' roM to Sum, 1
"L'Amom^ wu the rcptMilory hnnourcd vtitli die patronage of tfae '
fnhianibl« world, for it must bo otwen-fd tltat nil th« Aof» iif Vi«nfu i
haw tli«ir sign*, by whi<li A«t are nndi ben«r known than by th«
tmuKa of their im^netofS. " L'Amour," however, has quitted tJw ficU,
aud rettml to a Gue gardeo and rilla in che ouburbi. In good tim% il»
**IjMirel Wnnlh" will likewiMi witiulraw (o irpow tipon its own cioric«;
for ID Viewu na «nc ininun this occupation long bcfort: ho Gods niinMlf
caaUed to take his place amonr llie " rentten," and, in Ictfuie and ro-
tiramnil, to eachonge lua tki^ lor a palacs.

FoTTn«rly. Aug^bnr^ wu the G«nnan city most tvnownMl for ita nlrer i
cba^«d work ; now it is Vienna. Tho (greatest ettaUiihrnfut of tbc kiod \
it that of Hayerbofer and Klinkoiich, at the comer of the K(M<fnariB>b.
Their matkUMOtoty is in tlio sulwrbs, ind w«ll dotwrres a paitienlar ds-
acrifrtion. The greater part of the plate to be tnuismitti^ n» heirloom*
ID the noble Canuliia of Austria, is tnade there -, livnce a long leries of
Aeir ooats of arms, wiiich nimt be Btumped on ereiy separate piece, ia
prcMrved. A large service of plate for Mcheniet Ali was lately bespoken \
at dn* house. TliL' uiiiiilier nf ^irrent families resident in Vieinia rendcra
H DO tnattur of wondar that the imnil;er of enpravers and medulicta ihuukl
be gntX Itkewiw^ or that tlie art of cngraviug and oompoein^ heraldie
afaielas should ba induatriotiKly pursued. " It is only at Viennit." aaitl one
of these arti«ts la tne, " tlutt iho real tnie fqiirit of lit-nildry in (n he found.
"We do not even mlmit a (viat pricked elsewhere to l>e ciwiect." There is
not only a constant inanufacture of new eoaia of arms Gar the afXDmmo-
datioii of thoic per§oo»4 who are lUily elerated from the public ojKcea to |
be founders of nnble fuuiliea, Imt a never-ceanng demand for the repro- 1
dactioa of the old ttme-honouivd ifaialda in tted, gold, alTor, and ffeaMi*l[
atones. On all sides we find hands, and sotnetiinei ttii ones, en{d(7ed |
on tli«w hicrofrlyphiM of heraldrv

'\Vlica we consiiier that the iJutch hav« cairivd on many a wiu- about
nothing but pepperooms, that the whole Anglo-Chinese quarrels turns on
a few chests of opium, and tint tallow, tar. and tmin-oil, are not utnong
the icoit of ItuKiJii'ii inlerostB, and hafo often been mhjectj of attention to
cmpcroTS and their mimsters, I ihall not he reproscbed witb an undue
attention to trifles, if 1 enter a *Uop of mom than onUmny elogaoce, fi»
the sale of stearine eandlm, on the Kolil- market. Out of tlte white aad
delicate mvi of stearine^ they had fumied n caveni full of sc.ilactite^
vberein wu iodgnl a stcariiie ice bear. The candles wei« put up in
tropUes, like the weapons in on amenal, and, hare and there, piled into
OOluDOas, whose enpitali wi^rt- crowricii with flower-pots; indeed, the whole
shop was odonitnl witli lloncrs. Uy ilie iTiventioii of utrariiic, (allow may
be said to liavi' been eiinobW, aiad thus tt-iidi-n'il iHiiiiiuviljK- to tlic luoit
^stbigiuslied drawl ng-roome. In Viennn, it ha;9 CFl-teiiicd a(liiii"irtji at
court; church tapei« are also fonncd of it, although it is atill a subject nf
diicnsnon among the hi^ ehutvh uutlinrities, whetlier it be admisaible,
*'*T*T'* of wax, in placus of wvrship. If I remember n^tly, some of t!ie
bishops baT« prohibited it. In the Creek church it will cert&iuiy ncror
finil a phioe ; thae tliv aucient, uoble labour of tlte bee will be always
bold iu ttODonr.

Odo of the later ectabliahed sbopa of Vienna is the ropoaitovy

for bronze J

jJHi

SHOPS OP VISHSA.

155

inir<>B, kept by an Enj^Ssfanuui nf ibc noma of HoFton, of which tl>cr« «?«
Dovi bnuK-li «>tablul)mcnto in Milan, l*nqeue, Pestb, and other capiula of
tlip eiriphv. Tfav haiKkomnt thing I mw theie wu a bronie aviuy of
Blender gilded wirn entwined with exqnindvel^r wrouf^flowen in wrwNln.
Tliv first cup.- of thU kiiiJ nas broaght from ]*iuir, for the ctnprcsi o)otb«r ;
iievcnt«m hai« been dnce nuulc, ten of which wcrfe d«:stincd for Conitoim-
noplp. Ae I UA tlm bramn dmf, 1 wsBwitDeai of a little sceue, tti'ika lio-
nourable for tlw bainui and tbe fnubemd aiueaab who figured in it A
oonple of jrom^ flparrowB, making thrir fint timj in flviug with Uxir parents
ovn- lb« roofii of tW capital, Iiad fallrn axliaoited nto tho Etn«t, wbM«
they wvn pirkod nn aitd carriod off by a hor, in whoM hand they HuCt«red
and cliirpea moet pitifully. The pattnt haaa followed, uttering most niv
rowfnl ctiea, fluttering against tiie vMa, pcn^iiog on ngnx of the shoM;
and rentimiig even into the tnnnnil nf tiie i<lrr<!t. I bc^jEjgod ilip lad to W
tlM yoitt^ OM* g(S And •• tht cnca of the old biTd« ]iad alrawly excited fai<
enapasnon, he ad S0| asd the cnotom flying awkwardly agunat the irtiU,
ftU a weond time into the rtree^ and were again picked up. ** tiivi^ thrni to
me, (or my children, gire them to mc," cncd •eme wotntn ; but tite re-
ntoDRtrauccs of Uk fcatbcrcd parmts were to pitiful, tbat in the end tlw
whole aaiembled crowd (all nf tlie lowest class) raised a geneiul nlioiit of
*' No, no, let them go, give them thoir liberty." Theie wtre «omt Jews
among the pujiuliu-e, vrho cried out loudvr tlitin any. ScYvml times Uic birds
were flung up into tiie air, and lui often &U down again, aniid the ^i^ncral
lametitation of all preamt. Atbutaladderwas procurvd, all lent a Imiid to
raiiw it againat a small house, and hold it fa>t while tome one mounted
it and [ilacrd the little aniinaU in safety on the roof. The parents flew to
them iiiiiiiodialely, and the whale family took wing, aniid tne gciiemi ae>
elnmntionii of llin multitude ; even a couple of ** Gbcefrtinxel" ipttit* I
maUrcj) stood rtill at a little distance, and eyed the KoacsmilbgljtJiniugli
tbcir glavei.

Among the articlet made in lar^ ounntilics in Vienna are theatrieal
dceorations, whc/ewith it {umirbca all toe atauonaiy and locomotive thca-
tiefl of the Aiutrian empire. Many ahopa confine tbi-mtcUes to the Nate
of frippery of this kind, particularly diadems, and jewelled finen- for the
queens and princeMe* of tlie mimic sccac. Grtatnunitvn uf thcK diadcDiS
are made by tiie s^ldsiiiiths (if Vienna. They moke um of a iiecuTiar
GompositioD of lead, tin, and bismuth, called "stage cornposition." It haa
M good an effect, that at a little di4tance the deception in complete, Th«
nnnJl cut ridca of ilio metal ore not raiiicd, but put togetJier in iw L*<mcare
fomi ; wltem tlie tight pUys on them, they have sU the iipjn^anuice uf pre-
doua Btooea.

It in a remarkable fact that the pet>plc of Hamburg have leant only
within the laat fifteen yean how (o bind a ledger. BeAirv that time tlie
great fblioa won gvaenlly vent for from England. Tlie people of Vicuna
Bare not yet maatered tht« apparently titnple art, for Girardot, the mott
connderdilc Imokbinder in tlie city, whu employs thirty-six joumcrmen,
maintains amnng them Uu'ee I'ligliihiiipn for nil the solid and difiicult
work, and nine Frvnchniett for thnt reuuiriog delicate handling and tasta.
Tlicae people understand tlieir work innniu^h', and what they do ii ad-
mirahly well done^ Thvy work apart rn>m tla' Gemimi workmen, in ord^
to prt«^rve the mystery of tlieir erafi. There are many kinds of leather
Old fur this purpose, wluoli arc not to he badia Germany, ao tlul tbaalaff'

168

SAILBOADS.

M vcU u the tooli »nd th» workmen must he had from Fnoce nod EqC"
land. Nothing can exceed llto bnuty, cleeaiice, atid solidity of Ginmri
iHndiDgs, uid their vaiitiy ia quito u umiraMe. Everjr two moaths
thare ia & gtnenl de&noo* o( olil forms and p»tUn», to make way br
ncimiM.

The last vint in mv tour of iHopt ma to one whose comntodide* wer»
of a nature not naually madv tlio tubject »£ Lraffic in Vienna, — manVoy*
Bad («rrot«. Tlifl masUtr of the »hop tnid imp that tli« bod w«atber of tliaB
ytn liad been parlicuUrly injuriotu to tliem : he had lost monke/* to tha
value of one Uiontand wnu hutidrcd Horini, all lia«!ug rauglit Mvere
eowhf, of whii^ tlicy bud died. One of the ori.'aturea was ttill ooughit^,
eoa 1 wai astonished at thir similarity- of the sound to a hunian rotce. I
mr here » number of dose dark cagn, which I underafxjtl tii h« the pri-
vate studies of the parrots. In the eroiiinff their leachcm sliut tlicin up ia.
theiB pruoiit, and tUcii give them thdr ivMon. If thu t.-ag«a are iioc co-
vargd, their curiosity would make tliem h«sy thprnselrc* with other objcct8»
•od if thoy could sdo one another, they would conrani? in tlu-Ir wild Ame-
licuk lazt^piag^. It u long before a parrot ac(|uire« a new form of ipceoh.
Some are sent to board and IikI^ witli old wcmient of whom they Icora
tho Vienna jaivoa. H» majority hul learned to irream out " V'iraC
Feidinandufl Pnmus."

RAILROADS.

It fau often been matter of comnlaint, that the city of Vicuna has not
a more immediate tonnexion with the many rail aai wntcr rnuds radiatinff
from it. Th«! pa.tten^-rfi by the stvamboaU compliun that thay find j

fbemwlvea comu«lli)d to leave tiiar bttln toon after nildni^fht. if ihey wish.
|o Mt off at Gve in tho morning, and those by the nulrc^idi ^rmn^ble equally
ot having to trard through the whole city, top^thcr with its suburbs and the
viltagi's beyond, before they can eonsigii iheinselves to the energetic guid-
ance of the locomotive. The various rail and irteaniboat Btatiuus lie two
or three leag^utrs upartt and aouiv of tliuin at a distance ftuiu the cuutre
of the city. An iticrcdible number of hackney carriages arc constantly
employed in trunsporting passengers to the several points. Tlie tuagiiin*
cent terminus of tno Vienna-ltaab railroad lies nt the extreme outer lin«
of the citv. The posi^on is so lofty, that iJiny might have continued the
road to tne sery centre of tho city, without being in the way of the snioka
of a angle chimney. The terminus io that case would have reached about
half way up lo the summit of Steplieii'a Tnwrr.

Before railroads wei'e invented, many of tlio beautiful (nivirona of
VicDua were a forbiddcu P&radiHO to its citixens, Those who hnd no otlier
means of conveyance nt their coininmid tlimi whut ridture provided, never
reached lladeo, Stockentu, or any «ui']i di«tjtiit poitit, from one year'a
end to another, or perhaps not in the eourse of their lives. Witliiii the
last lew yvort the railruad-t have fpvcn them a key to tlie^e El>^iums, and
at every opening of o new branch of road the newsjiaiii<rs of Vienna aa-
nouncc the fact in a style that mij^ht have miied some I^f Captain Cook's
discoveries, new and most captivating dc4cri]>tious of Stockentu, Briel,
Helunonthal, &c., twing put forth to cutioo people by thousauds to tho
tuIraniL

The railroads have wrought a change in the whoI« enviions of Vienna,

ItAILEOAW.

157

Mtd in t})« wholo eyfWm of out-divir piMsttref. Tho Prftt«r and the
Awfarten «re lost, ani] coro|ttTntirety empty now, vhon tljc seeker* of
pl«uara can be camcc) awav with sn mucli ease to a diituicn of firu or
■ix (G^rniftn) mtU-«. Tho I'rati^r hjtd made the most extnonlinnn- nro-
tnisei ; it had nnnouncrd a "6nn-im« fMtival," to end with a faithful rc-
prcseutstion of the eniption of the (hre« volcanoes io Fernando Po. The
three were to rie with each other in the q>lettdour of their finmes, and
««nd forth fmokc enough to darken tlw heavens. PreiKU'utions had wito
been made to blow up levsral msui-* of (pMtnboanl) nx:lc. I^evertheleu^
the Prater was doomed to be deserted tltcit evening, and the visiters were
Uironj^nr to th« railroads. Ou the other hand the invitatioua for inoi»
(Ustant placet of pleamrahle re*ort wprc not loa alluring. At Mctllin^,
8crs.uM promised bii nowly-compomd daiiont, " Country Dcli^^ht,*' '■ Kail-
ro*d Galopade," the " Xaiads," ftc. ; anH Lnnn^r announced his musical
eODTenazione, bis " Eccentric," his '* Rellex from the world of Ilanuonr.**
to be given at Lieciog. In Radeu all inrts of " Volktfest^' were to take
pUc*'. Tlicre waa to t>e the " Dance for tlie Hat," a Milan dance, in
which the ladias dance through a gate, and ehc whose traiiiit falls in with
• certain ^ven ngnal obtains a hat by way of & prize. In the varioiia
"Aieriw" (gardoTi thcitres), "The Bohemian Girls in Uniform," the
** Elopeoifnt, from the Maaquud Uall," " The Maiden fWm Paiiy Laud,"
and other attractive pieces, were advertised.

Around the Inst coaoh seltinj^ off for the VienDa*Itaab railroad the peo-
plf w«r« thronging and it«amin^. " Prav, gentlemen, let the ladice go
fint," cried sonic voice* in the crowd. " res, ye^ the ladiea first, the Indies
fint, tbey all say, and here am [ shoved hack a^nin," crieil a woman wlio
had been poshed back from one of the c«rriaje;«ii. She wan launching in
her despair into a hig^ train of eloquence when wc invited her into our
hackney-coach, and recognued in her, in spite nf her shining kid-gloves, a
Vienna cook, 'llie cooks generally wear fihort flleeves, between woieh and
their long glove*, a brown and tcorched ring of on nrm rcmtuiu to reveal
tJicir callmg.

I he Vienna-Raah railirar (now that its direction towards Hungary if i
fpven up, it will probably he caUed the Vienna -Trieste railway) in pro- I
bably the most mngniitcent railway in cAistonce. The terminus anu in-
termediate stations are remarkable for their siie and splendour. The
waitiiig-Tooma for the pofsengera of the fir&t and second-classes are mora
like dnvwiag-rooiDS that any thing else.

There are three classes of carriages ; tlier are all extremely capacious,
earrying no fewer than fiflv-dx perscnis. Besides these ttiffe clnsse^
tliere are the, so called, "safooa carriages' furnished with looking-glasses,
divaaot tables, &a., and danined for pervous of wealth and diiUudJoo. |
At [msont the lines of milnwd are towards the resorts of pleasure, and '
have their names accordingly :— MJldling, I1a<len, Noiiftadt. The time
will come when more impoTtant names will appeal' — tlic Adriatic, 'S'cnice, 1
ihe East, the Levaot, Sic

The banker Sina is at the hrnd of the Vienna-Baab line, as Reth<
sdnld prcndes over the Vicmi a-Brunn line. At tint the engineer; went
■U KlgKllimct), hut they have sinoe been replaced by Germans. " The
Englbh have not the phlegm of tlie Gcmmnc," »aid a Vienna dtixen to
nie, " they were rash, and carolcte, and many accid«ut4 were tlio con-
Mqnenoc. ' The precautions observed on tlie Austrian rulnutds are so

givat M ■boott to ooQDtoict the main oligMt of these imd*— tpeed.

Very slowly md itxj gnUhaSij tbo (ruin is set i» OMtiiMV, eounU«M art
tiie ukutles befon it inorw at alli «ad verjr UMMlente in tbs [w o ^i a M lor
SOBW tinML Lnaf; behm they niaaii to ttopw iIm i^wod is tlackwiaJ, and
Mtnnrutiiigl/ llow ia ii^ motion op to ths tofmbM. It ia tnw tfawt if wa
could be ■omied that every anv ptecautionaij meaBan nved some Iitm^
the^ eouU not be sufficiMilly conunendi^tl, but H\« iiiiMtion mil arue— 4o
ibcjr ■'callv do soy It may •> happMi llut tht<ii«>^ig«nceof tlw lower fune-
IJouuies lacn-iiHCS in exact pioporttOD with the «xti«at« fcf«si]ebt ot the
IiigbeT. Thu ntrcr the public ia tkat precautions aie taken by otbenii the
leas will tbey take eiur« of thcvnselvri.

On tbe day I wrat on th« Vionna-IUob niilrMd we had, in oat tmn,
fiftem catiiagefl, full of people aUriing from Vionna in acort^ of plcaaurv^
oeuMmortly, seven huadred persoiis. We encountered omilur truna
••ffsnl lim«*, And, I beUerc, that tlio nurokcr of pcnoiu oani^ out that
Sunday oooLd not be leas than tirdro thooaaail. The direction of tliis
tailmw) galopnde was towards the plain at tfie end of the &reat of Viennft.
Tbe hills are picned by sevcnl raJlcys beyond vhii^h lie tlia beTon men-
tioued pretty villagw of htemg, MOdliajg^, Itadcn, uid uUien. lluD«lrtda
of men, wenteo, aira duldraa, wen disgorged by tlw trvii ut thn nitiraace
of tbeae valleys, and fanndnda of fresh paaaengera pavketl iu. Foiineriy ■
stnuiji^-r nnfuired a nvck t<i tint all Uicse Tuuited places in their turn,
DOW ite can be wbiricd tbcrc, liaTe a peep nt them, and be back iu a few
hotus.

We«Uowcdot]rsel*estobeoompliraeQt«dontof tbe earriageet Mudlin|f,
to enjoy the liij^hly bnded views of *' in der Uriel." We found n doccii uf
osiea ready suddtedt standing at the slaiioii. On« of the donkeys waa
■tamed " Karl Wianr," another " Nanerl," and h«r |;>ent1e daiijvhter *' Soli,"
eo at least the Juvenile drirers iufimiied i^ As we were jiut thi'tv in
number, we elioaa these tltree aiiiuiak, iiinui)t«i] tlitnn, and trotUil aw;iy
into the mouotaiBS. The fsthvr nf the prasest PHiico LicEitenstc'tn Jirst
broug:bt the noif^Ii^urhDod of Uriel into notice. He caused th>^ naked
declivicics to be cloUied irith woods, patbs to be cut, and tlie ^Kmd to bt
laid out with taste ; adorned the sunuuits with paviUoni and Miinmer-honMS^
bult a maj^ifieent se&C in tb« iioijrhbourhnocl, ium] abandoned the pie-
turesqua old ruins to tliu curiosity of tlic ptdilic. At this present time •»•
"venu yet wiUW. woody and rocky volleys in the Deii^hbourhrN^I of ViontM
UW undor^oina; a Einiilnr tmnsfornuition. Coffco- hotMC civilization has
uit to fii^Kt tiie nym|ihs and dr^mla uf the woods. The caves of tbe fatins
nave be«n fitted up tor the snlo of beer and vine, and whcra formerly •
solilitry lover i>f iiuturv Could scaicelv foroe his wny, the population of m
vhole t^iiarter of the city ar« now (jaddiiiff about in aicnj crowds.

The ruins of the old csxtie of fjl elite oftein, to which Kai-I Wtzlng,
KanerL and Sofi carried u«, iire mil ruins, a faet worthy of r^msrk, be-
«liu«c the hilU around aro covered with a minibcr wf oainiic ruins, placed
iluTc for decoration's sake. The olil rmllp, one of the earliest possessions
of the illiutriflus family whose niiniy it beare. fell aflerwanii into other
handd, and was Mibtcfjuoritly re-piin-hiwed by the LichtenAU-in^ with tho
laDdi ant] vineyardj belonging to It, for six hundred thousand florins. It
is a regdar, old, Todt boilt, kni^tly nest. The dmit^xt livs ri^ht beiurs
the namw entranoe, and the fint Uiinff &o stem oid barons must Imvo
done oa stcp^nng over their threshold was to give a or^tivc to the pcti*

tioM for fnctikMii vlaicli the c^tivM ssnt op to tkcm ia groiiu Inm tbos
fomm betow.

The hall whereiii the uwMtMl picCnm are suspended, hu iui milt portlj
«at ant of tfw bare lOck, umI fomy of ffentton*. lie W* rock oUo fonn«
the floor. Ilia oUnt portmt U that or John of Lkfateaftua^ 'vlio died ia
l39o, Hod the eeriea is continued down to the gmidbtlier of the pFeant
prince. The hulice hang in a neighboimnj; chamber, tikewiee carved out
o(thr rock. U nuub h« a real plvaeurt! to be dcecendcd from tlus hand-
WHKt, aUMit old TK*. Tliey are all tall handaome 6gams, utA the dainty
liA, padded donbteta, short hoaet relret eapa, goklen chaiiui, and tiea
fdaceiy maotlee of wlu«h tbe^ wen aever ia wwjt, ait on than in s
■MM acatelj laahioii. Tbehan«aine9tainonigtbeuiuoiM"John Squtimua
?na Lichteiutoin, loni of liiman and Ranuboi^g', nn of JOrg Hortmann r.
lic h Um t ein of Fcltbwj.'. a^d ^5 y^xn." One of th^n hu a dgcr Hiieh
k ii eareosDi; by his eidt?. ProhaUy the pi«tent Livhtenjteuia wouU
Mon adopC a tiger jor a bp di^ at retuiuo thit <^ rockj lutt fjr a dwdb<

TrWinUoks Cbariat 10 the ownv of the lovely valky liehiad Baden,
I aeMT nv amre eourtcoos addieeaei to the poblie than llioee potted op
in the gioandi laid out hy the archduke for the ])ubUc " The rwpectoi
Hb&e ate i»qaetted to make uto of the patht laid down in thete uToimdi^
m order lo tpani tho youn^ irood." No doubt prohihirioM of the kind
would have a better effect, if luch lODtint wete alwmya tuggeeted.

The handaooM castle, built hy the archduke just at the MilraiKW of tba
nUeyt i« called Wolbur^. Although ore had the buildiof; <«mKtantly ia
a^bt. m we/v oblip.-d to inquire the way Ui it tvicr, at wc had got mta
eotne by-patht, and each tinic we received gcnninc Auatrian nntwers. The
titat wu, " I ani oot acquainted with lhi» road ;" end the aecood, " Thit
' ifat right road, the outer is for iMrmtflcrt" (1. e. the owner*). Schlotg
I WafflMtg is naowtied for his calLeetioa of roaee. 'tike gardener told na
there w«re not less than ctgfat hundred specie h«re, but m tlus UoomUM,
aMtaa, tliey all looked ad like each other as w> many skdetona. To makai
< «• aneodi^ we nw a plant hot tddoa met with in Gennan grewihomw ^
' tiw iBt n eolo urt d Kly, with dark red ipots (iiltum tpttt/mtm poMttatitmf,
The ate of the pilaniT aod garden u ih« uiott deLiglitful (hat vau he iioa-
poed. h. iam en the borien of a hilly vountrj-, iil iIk upc-oiii^ </ a val>
ley, in Tiew of a richly -cultivatwl plain. On vitht^r Kiiln it i« tUiikeJ hf
wooded beigbte, and behind is the narrow pua of tlte vaUoy. £very tUag
rriftiired tovarda tho formaiion of a fine landscape ia h«re uitited: th0<
fjeraling view orer a distant land, rich in life and hope ; the warmly -tinted
pictei* of tho lorely valley doae at hand, aiul the rctteat into a friendly
wooded toliludc. The la»t wu the particular object of my research, ana
I tomoA at the end of tlie vftJley a beautiful meadow, in tho midst of tbirit*
•It, by the ade of a river. Iliis was called die houso-meadow, Whilat
Uadra waa swarauBft with peoplv, but few fvuiul tliur >ray lo this pUcr.
A little boy was axl^ataijf his akill on the violin, and rmivcil, in rvwasd
ef Ins naiteriy i wtfa tnia iw ^ tbe Itrge oopper piece* of a few wanderaif
Heeattaa with the warauwt gratitBdaL

On oar nttm to fiadcn we r efie ab ed oareehres witli a on) ef coE^ and
Mne eteeUant "A^e/n," whitdi an» better made here than iti VieniM:
haalf. Thw^ nuke them of all uei, from half a kremer to five lloriM"
» fnesa. uu mtm anatvcratic among Lht haket* letpend a tbield cv

MO" SDKDAT TTAtlCaL

emm of Jcipfel dvu^fa oror their window*, iii tlie m«nn«r of aimonal'''
bMrings; the tnsU ht.'kiA &re eo mucli csivcniei}, thm nittiiy btilcvni, noc
ooatent with mabinf* them once a day, tnsrribo over Uwir mops, " Here
Wwd b haked Uuwo tiiii«9 ■ day." Baron RoUwcltiM aeot Aw u B«dea
baker to Pan*, where liix artUticnl [K'Hormnnce* were so mucli ipiiroveil o^
tiiftt lio becwne & rich ninri in a short time.

Life in Bftdeo has nndereone a great change of latn J'«ft«, Formeriy
the emperor Fr&ncis lived nttre in the summer, aiid, like king Frederick
AVilliam at Trpliti, luutftmblod inudi of ihi; great world amund hh jteraon.
Both pUcc« hdve but bv tKo denth nf thoMt two eovomif^* ; iicv«ftholMii,
now that tho milrood fannga, daily, thouGonds into the nci;^hboarh(KH], wtd
inundates it with smoken, drinkers, nnd eooka, the pleamrea of the »mum
huva befARie of tnlimt«1y more eoniequf>noA than tho«> of the nloou.
Tlw hatlu will W prcat frainen. They arc now vrithiii reach of
many to whnm they ncre before unattainable. Many invalids in public
offiow oome with the first tnuu, take a bath luid return to the capital be-
fore their hours of busiiic*». Priiicu ?m,-kler MuaUau observes that, in
Vienna, people talk nh^ut a " lamprrNr" wr n " parajituu," bnt know no-
thing aljoiit a Tirffettfrkirm. I also had oppoitutiitie* enough of remark*
iftjET thn foodneM of persona of the uneducxied elassu fin sporting a^ev
French phraseii. While waiting with aoimi hundredi of penona in tli«
room apprapriated to the lecxiiid cIsjm, for the airiral of the train, I sat
down near a vory fat, very fine lady, who wag nanidin^ her Froneh to an
MquaiatvtM. " Cnnim(>nt voua pmiei to<u? said the lady. "Oh, ah,
oui, bien,* wtia the rwrly. " Prenec place id, vouler vous ?" *' Noo,*
"Pourquoi done?" "Non! je, je, — Ah what shall I nay, I don't know
how trt «ny it, but Vd rather stand," and hereupon he laujjhetl out Loud.
*' II fait Irc^s chaud icl," ))er«iHted she. " Ay, you mean it is very hot ; ye«,
hot enough to Btifle one." " OiiJ (I'ent Irop," rejoined the fat dame. '• it is
loo bad. If they would but collect the heat nnd put it into the on^e
they might aavc their firing."

The drive hack, at eleven o'clock at night, waj really brilliant, and the
jirecaiuionnry lighting of the road almost superfluous. The (tations wew
illuminated with red and fjrccn laiiip» ; the whole way uloii)]f, lauipi and
torches vrcTo planted, and withal the moon ihonc rcsplcndently in the
neaTenci. Late as it was, we met several trains, and, without any exaggera-
tion, the engines were piping and whiitliug tu uuaicmusly along the fuI-
toad as 90 niany niice in a granary.

SUNDAY WALKS.

It was one Sunday afWmoon tliat I walked into the streota to see what
mspect the city bore at that tim« nf the day- The workday and morning
tuiaidt bad quite subsided, the constant "Ha! ho .'" of Uie hackney car- \
riaiCP!, nnd the " AufJ" of tlic car-driver* were nlcnt, for 20,000 of the '
inhabitants of Vienna were rolling over the newly-opened railway tn the
newly-jijvovcrcd Paradise- of ti[',n;kerau, and 20,000 were flying by the |
lUab road to Miidling. Kuden. and the other valleyH of t}i« forest of I
Vienna ; 50.000 more were gone into the oountiy for tlio mimmer. and
fttiotlier 50,000 wcrv gone after them for tbc dny, to forget the troubles of
the week in their society. Another not Iom rcspccuble uuniber of citiuus

SCNDAT wALir#r

■ad citiiGMftM* were Mrftltrrecl over tli« ^ranlrns of tlie lubui'bi, tliK Pniur,
atx) tlie itM^owE, and thus I retuaiiKed in poswasicm of tint innrr city, ni(li

.ft romnant of Uck«^«, beg'gvs, and Mck; tiic Turk* tni^lil have ftt-

1t«d and takeii it at that moment vritli nuc. Ttic domettics w«re lounging

w tlirirdoonandconrmnngwith l1)eir<ip|H)<3ieneig)ibnura; (hi> miiidii

I ehitttoring in tlie inn«t courts ; tlw c»rt'ee-Iicnw« of tlie " Orioutals"

FiVfta tbH full of cotn|iany, fir they w«n.' wrnrccly liliflv to npprove of
our way of )(e«{iiiig^ Siitiduv. hi llw cailivdral tif St. Stephen, a fcw
old iriinii'n wprp tvllinj* tiioir ro^arieB, a&d Bcroamiiig their devotions
tiirvugh tlicfliurcfai and one gratiiig voice anione timtt, louder tliiiu all

' tiic rest, repeaUtd aa Hw <*nd of «ach vt^nur, " Holy. Iioly, holy 1"

In the oourtynrd of ono Iiou«p into wliich I looked, I aav n little boy
mu^ni^ prayen aloud from a book. Ho told rao tlint hti vnut eight yean
old, and that Iiedid tliU eTcry Sundfl.r. I took hii hook, and »aw ihtit he

, vas n-iidiD;^ the jroipel of St. Luke, from tlie ninth to thtt fourt«eiit)i v^rw.
He »u4l it wiui the ^»pel for the day, and that many liovs ui a similar
inanaer read the f^ospela on n Sunday before the houdei of Vit^nun. ^Vli^-n
be had finiihed, tbere deaoendcd on Itim, from the ui)|ivr Htorios, u ^fratefnl
ihower of kr^utxer* wrapped in paper.

la tbo uual lunndt of the town, I fiad overlooked many smaller els-
nmts of the population, wluch I now discovered for tlic iirxt time, as Rome
inh.ibitants of the waten a.re perceived only when the tide hfis ebbed. I
ootic<^ for tlic fint time tliv poplv nliu fiawk Italian and Himf^Eiriaii

< ebeese* abrwit the streets. They are chiefly from the nrighboiiHicrfid of

fUdine, and also sell Italian nincarani. The greater number eould ^"^
'U nucK German a« tliey found uecessan' for Utnr street troflic. latere
■re in all not ItL-a tlian thirty tlimiuixl ItAliiin.i in Vieiiiia, and ihe jiaa-
senger u not uiifrrquiinlly iiCiHiKCed nitK "Powrttla! rignor mio f la
tarita.*' Beggars f nonld, out of policy, always speak a foreign language ;
it excites far more compassion than the lanjpiap? of the eoinitry.

<>(itn(f farther. I fi>aad ■ man standing befom a tnker'ii sliojl, oceupietl
in seoldinj; a little tnMd-MrvanC. 8ho wa* a Rnhemian, ho (old me, and
•dded, " That Boli«mia mast be a very poor country — c^-ery year tbcra
comR thouuinda of them to Vienna— ^neu and vronieu, inaida and hoyi.
They l«ain ■• niueh Genniui a* thov tnukt, uftk n i^rrico Homewhere, are

' TWy moderate in their demands, vnll put up -ivitli a bed iu the »tablvr, or
on the floor, and when tbey have earned a few florim^ they go back to
Ibnr CMTO coantry." In fact, if we inquire of a hundred people we meet '
io Vienna what country thev arc from, the answer of twenty, on an axcr-
^;e. will be "/cA bin em lifhm" (I om a Boheniian). Tne whoW num-
ber of the SbiYonians in Vienna i«, it ii said, about 60,O00, and of olhep '
Kon-Ormans 100,000. In the highest eirelei a* the lowest, the foreign
element mingles ercrywhcre. The number of Iluiigonans is reckoned at
1 J.OOO : but of these many are not genuine Mag}-ars.

L>ne could not in Vienna, nt that lime, ^eak three wonis to » unit
without comiag to tbe name of GcymuUer. My baker, whom I liad re-

rted to show me the way to the (ilaei*, tokl me, by tlie way, that it waa
olileit banking-house, and had flourished for above sisty yram, " The
Kit Baxvu CJeyitiOller, however," he «aid, " w.-w no GoymlUler at all, but
8T> adopted Km <if lit* iire(iere«>or, and no Iistitii pro|)erlv, but they had
miule him one. He had equuidered l.')0,(XX> lloriiiii yearly 1 many, both
c( til rich and poor, bad been ruined through hint; and tvow tma mil-

i«a

SCnmAT IFAXKS.

ducf-iBiilier hui been politely fhown tlie door ; and ullmrml to j^ uid
H<M U l^rii witli hb wife on Uie nntuiiu of bis furtiin«. uxt tber wer»
Bflt {BMaMdenUe."

Dnrmir this oonvnmtioD wc Imd ic*ebed tW S«ttacr HoT, nbcre oar

At Um. 1 mme to the end rf tho eity, snd w«nt out upon ihc Glacis.
Here Bwaned to be gathered togtiiher aJl wboee l<-gri were too abort to

Eia tile opt'D nnintrj- bevoml t&e cstensiTe suburb* at \'iraii*. It was
» part called the Wntor GImxi, wb«ie tben b tomo gay tninic CWT
■(iantout) t Biimb«n n( little childrm with their nonM vere lytnf^ Knid
playing about the graatf and eorenl sdioob uitder iUe guidanct- of thelr
naaten ware doiag tlie tiLe. Sonie oTtlmn had intcbtd a tent in one of
tlw ae«dow«, near whteh tbm- wcrv divoftinf^ tnamMWe*. There U no
oUivr cilT in Eurppr where the cliildren hoTo socb a ptnv^round in tbo
vnj liean of the town. Tbe bencbe* were bare of ntlwr vtniUTt, witli the
«ption of one solitary Turii senied anionff tho cfaildn-n. Hc> h-m taking
ooSe«i aod dividiajr the •'Aijt/fl," that had been brought liiiu witli it,
.MlUBg' the tftnows which aie cooctautly flying; in numben rouiul the
fflacu. 1 Bst dovm by hitn to share in botli his amuscmanLt, and r»-
Biarii«d a tricic of the sparrows that I had n«ver l>efore noUccd. Some of
tbeo) were m gnntly, tliut \hty ke^ii lluitvritig iu tlie air about ui, aod
aouMttmes matduKT a moncl of broad beAm it rauld erea reach the
gimmd, while (he otltera were eogerijr piddiig up the Matt«i»d fng'
murta.

Like a polrnui turned inside out, the xava life haoF displayed exter-
nallv, the dead estcrior fltin tumM witliin, even no u the lifo of Vienna
i«TvriH.-d on n Sunday. Hie Bwanns that on other day* arc dnnnf^ nnd
bawling in the ttrmts and public place* of the city, are then sin^n^,
HiTirtrff, eating, drinking, and gnaniiin^ in the houses of public entar-
tainmeot without. All thi« bumnuni* and druininiiii^ was bu little in
uniaan with my idea uf a Sunday nalk, that T was glud Co takr refuge
fr»ni the noiu' in a place where I was sura of harinf^ more to myself on a
Sutiiiuy than any otliM" day — the Hower-eardpn* and cbuicbTanu.

Bcet)K>ven'« moDunient itaiidji in the Wllhrincier ceniebT\-. His
nmple faniily-uame is iDM-ribed in gold letters on a Hlcmv; Imt nf Iat«
tlu) i^wth of a bush planted neat it lias almost overshadowed the lettccv,
] asked the textou why lie did not cut away the boa^rhs that tliu iiaiae
intgfat be more jdaiuly seen; be stud tlio friauds would not allow it to he
doiw.

In ereiy temetery tliere is a certam form of iDscription euro to be fire-
quently iiict with. Oil half the graTCStonos in this place I read the
wonl " Ever to Iw reineitil'ereil V {vavmjfuUeh) which seems to me ■■
unmeaning^ as it >« short. On many of I lie ^>Tnrc« lirhts were bununjp
in small lanterns among tho tlowera. It i.i tlip nifiom in Vienna to iiglit
these on the anniversary <>f the death of the deceased. The Wahrinper
eemetery is onp iif tlie imvtt diitin^iished in Vienna ; and many place on
the prayefl of their departed friends flawers of a very cosUy kind, for the
supply of which there is a grceahouse in the eemetery. At night two
dof^ are let Iimm* to guard the property of tJie dead.

Nothing' lianoootMS batter with a grave than fluwrin, and by way ofa
condunioii to my Sniiday jirurneiiade, 1 went to Kmk M. the iloii-er-gardens of
Mr, X , and Boroii Jc , and came at l&ngtli to RupeK'a nursery-

SCKDAT WALKS, 163

J wUch for Htuigar\', and for all tlio Atlwr luntl* tliat rec«ire the

I oraJtmtion boia Mcoiim plitvs no insifoiftcant [Art. Il U snid to

ooDtiuu not less thau 2000 epenei of vme, rhiT 400 of poUtOM ; Uie Utter
uiirlv must be particularl)^ imiiortant for the bofore-iiienttosM) cotintrivs,
wblch ftTc itill very ill (unpliixf wicli tins ngetahic. Rupert's nrdea is
alfto ccltrbrotni for ita dBiiIias, tlic Howcr now so pusioaatel}- cultivatnl iu
all Kuropean gardens. Tito proprietor sav^ that he has 900 vBrictica,
M-itli (lifi^rent named for each. As vc 6im oGitain insects and butUirflics
hovrriii^ over oertoia UoMrcrs, to one id alinmt ccrtaia to meet la Rapcft's
garden i>ome eti&mourad udminrrti of dililias rrom diffpTflut parts of tlie
Austriiin donunloiu on the hunt for tomu variety of Rawer Tclier«with to
compk-Ui tbvir cvUvctiuui. Il^rCt as iu £ux''i'u HaiulKirct and LHurt*
tliev 3tim at t}iu prwluction ofitAw Iciutt^i. Tliu " Princess Kinsky" (white
vrith lilne e<lgu») is a. f.-n>iitioii of Anemia; " Baroness IlenlerfoItT' (bright
liliic vritli a dark violet coloured bonJcr), and " Count Flinfkirchcu," are
cttrisU-ued aftiir Austrian nobles. Tlie rcnr uewest pmduclioiis iif Eng*
land niid CicriDanv find ibf^lr way first to Rupert's gardi'jt. A " Charloa
XIJ^" a bntutiTuI velret violet, fading tn the ca\yx to a tender lilac, and
at tlie outer edge pure white, was now blnoniing ri>r the first tiiu« ia tJiQ
Auttriau temtorj'. The last consignumnt hod broujfhl 84 uetr aorte, which
were to come into bloom next year. It is worthy tk note in liow grand a,
style the English gardens carnr oo their trade with dahlia bulbs. To tba
tiante of ilie ouIl», tlie nunc of the producers of iti varieties it DnnexHl. Mid.
osually a Ixsaatiful drawing added to show whiLt tlic Uuuer will be whea
inUooui.

Towards erening I nrtumod by tlie Gloeis, nml tlierc witncssnl a sccno
I iJialinat easily forget. A sudden storm of thunder and lightning, that
eccnii:tl to proiuiiw a M>cond count uf rain and hail, liad swans] all ths
jonenilos tncamprd on the gruM, and ae 1 camu up, all nera in full ffiglib
over the nairow diawbndgtrs and tliruugh the small gates. Tlie nnraea
were towing along two, three, and four bltle cre(Uur«9, and the achoolmas-
twv liriviiig their llucks before tliein. IIhtc wa* n thronging, bustUugt
mid burning, as if the Turks li:ul just eiitvn-d tlie suburbs. " VrilliaD),
you etupid bo}' ! wliat do you stand still to spell Franciscus Primus for ?**
(tht! name of that erajierar is inscribed in {;oldvn letters over iha gate,)
" can't you sitell enougli at liome ? don't you hear tlie tliujidvr ?"—
" fiaWtte uiir joa let go that chain? this is not the time to count tho
links. See how ron are keeping us." — "Qootl God! what's Lecoue of
iSei>pi ? He ! child, run, nm, the nuo will spoil all your things." Thus
Bcrvamed mnthers and aunws, and all dragged on tlieir small cliaiges as if
a MoOod murder of tho innocents was at haod. At the end of this oontnry
{wifaafH sooie gnndsire of sereaty will date liia earlieat childish rvcullec-
lioas from tlui storm, and relate now in the long dspnrlcd year of 1841
a storm drove him with otlitfn suddenly from th« Gla^us of Vienna, and
his Fiiund may iikewito nraombcr bow- he was there too, and bow he got
a box oo the ear from his nurse for ttopping to kikU Pranciscui Primna ta
the middle of the nin, and how a strange man dnctl his tears and led hini
hy the baud after his attvndout.

1&4

ELOSTEKXECBrKC.

One imj I went in a $ienKrapem that started from St Scepben's pJaos
fiir the aoMh talked of KkwtemenlMirg, in cooipanT widt a f*^ littl*
giri and her mother, a pale joang womaD wh<«a I took at fint Sbr a
member of the cofporadoa of •empMraaaea, a little old manmkm, and aome
■lent membos on the back seats of whom no moR need be Mid. "nm
fittle giA had a basket with foawGnenon her lap which she heU so negli-
gently, that at the firat jolt of the coach ovt it &D to the nnykJfc
terror of the mother, who annotmeed the miafoctone br a tenible dui^
llie diirer made a halt and I went in sesrdi of the ba^nt, which laAJlj
had £allen without HimUlng oat its ddicnle contents, and ofived my
■errices to hold it more securely for the future^ throogh whidb small cinhtr
I won the hearts of my companions, and a eonveraatioa began that ceased
not tin we separated at Klostemenboi^. There was no want of subjects,
fitr in a city like Vienna every night is sore to prodnee matter cnongit
to employ, for the succeeding day, all the tongoea that stand in need of
exercise. We spoke first of GeymiiUer's baiJonptcy, a sabject ^lidi
kept all the taHten of Vienna in fiiU play for two months, and was in-
tmducecl every momtog as regnlariy as Gunily prayers. It was main-
tained that it was the banker Sina,* who had nunied GeymDller. The
book-keeper of the latter had betrayed the embarrassments of his prindpal
to fUntt, who thereupon, to secure nis own clunu, had come forward, and
anticipated the o^er creditors. The clerks of GeymuUer had called the
treacnerons book-keeper to account for this, and even threatened his lifo.
But Geymiiller had said, "Let him live! tor this man whom I have
raised from nothing, and who has in return betrayed me, God will jndg»
him r Next, the last great fire was discussed, and some one related how
the night before, a young man had been robbed and murdered in Leo-
poldstadt.

" Ah, see there now ! they are going on quite in the Gahcia &sIuon in
Vienna!" said the slim, pale, young woman whom I had taken for a
modiste, but who afterwards gave us to midentsod she was the lady of a
government tobacco agent " Two fires in one week, a man muraered,
GeymOUer a bankrupt, it's regular Galicia fashion, upon my honour !"
" Where you ever in Galicia, if I may ask ?" said I, — " Ah! yes, indeed,
God help me, two whole years," was the answer, accompanied by a deep
figh.

Thereupon our conversation took another direction, for I too had been
in Galicia,* and was interested for the country, and for the views others
entertained respecting it. It may be easily imagined how longingly all
eyes are directed from the provinces towards the warm high-beating heart j
of the Austrian monarchy ; the hr radiating centre of light, the seat of
all that is noblest, foirest, and wisest, the imperial city of Vienna, and
how its splendours and glories are magnified m the ims^nations of those
dwellers m the provinces, whose fortune it is never to see it face to face ;
and on the other hand, it ia as easy to fancy how inconsolable must be the

*Mr. Kobl'i tour in Oftlida will form the dose of the present volome, though in
point of date it preceded his visit to Vienna.

ZZXmEBNErBUBO. 165

/ man or wonua desdned to leave thia teraplo of noovn and Mnrro of nil
pleoBoro, far the coinMi»tiv«ly jayluH provinc<-^ I novtr boaid a Vienna
iMiiy more cloiriiicDt tnan wheii spL-alui)^ of the Bohcnuani^ Hflnitiaitfi, or
CTcu tile Polo, nungvians, Croats, nud other remote people of the em-
pire, Ab the wires of officers, military or cinl, manv a. fair Aiutrian is
tUti to wttmlcr unrnij; thcTc barbanuni. W hvL-vcr niu tuul occu ion to
liitc-ii to tho coDiplalntj of tliosc nho hnvt been siatioucd in Bultowtna,
TraDsvWsnio, or the militarv colonies, must confess tlmt the Jeitmiade of
the Cniuew priuoox married to a Mongolian prince, m delivered to u» by
Rackert, in }iis Schi-kinj;, wiu not inor« deeply felt nor iiiorv uoclinUIy
«xprM>ed, nor is the joy of (be pnrie(«( when she irtums U> tfav cxpital
of tJ»e Sun's brother, greater tiian the rapture of a fair natire of Vienna,
when fihe ttfa Klvpheii's tower again after a riMidcnev of «ome years iu
IIuiigaTv or GnUciii. If any imu be eunuua to know th« IuikI of pielnro
she would drnn- of the place the had left, lot him listen to tho at'etiuiit of
Um tobaoconititu Wtti^-haif, wlieii the berorv-meatiooed uiAfurtuuee aud
nusdeeds awakrned her rrcolli-ctitxu of Galiciii.

" Ym, it u qtul« the Gfllicia mode, and wo shall inon linv(> in Viourut
weh spectacles as v« to be seea in Lcmbcrg- ovtry day. Whilst I w»«
there, they hung nine men within nx weeks. Once they hung up four on
the same day. Tlioy were huiig alt«'mately, Arst a Cliriatian auJ then a
Jew, aiid tlicii another ChriMiaii and then another Jew. Here, Uod be
tlianked, the punislintent of death ts pretty well laid aaide, except among'
themllitaTy. But (lalicia! Oh what a countiy 1 I had travelled before
in lloheinta and Moravia ; I thoiijflit the poverty and miser)' of the people
was tcaudoloiu enough tht-rc, and liar beyond what 1 hud uuy idvtv uf ; but^
Je»ii9 i^lnria t I've learned more lincc ; when I gi't to Galii'is, I found
wimt it was to bo in a eountry so fur behind in eivili»atiini ! Smell ro^'ues
and vA»nbondti us the people are therw I never henrd of 1 They plunder
and iiilfpr,' and commit all mamicr of excowcs. At first we used to go by
the dilijrciK^i on the great high roads, but aftonnuda we had a earring* to
our«elve«. On tlie hi^^li-madt )-ou must have rei-onr^e to blows to get any
thJn^, but out of thein there >» nothing U> he luid either for cud^Uing cv
for money. One evening the Jew who was driTinir uv, cnlled mit^* I^ook
ot tlio Klnn, Ho you 6ee the stars ? the sabbatli it uegtimiu^ I' mud liu ai-.
tunlly wauted to take out his hon«nei nnd compel us to pa&« the ulght in
the open air ! My uncle, wlio was trare11in>r with me, gave him a beating
and he dmvu a litUo farther ; but my uhcIp was obliged to eiidge! him six
times before we eot to oar journey's end." Here I looked hard at tho
speaker, who hailnoi mtked ine whether I had ever been in LcnibiTg, witli
a fcrutiiiintig glani^-, but I saw tliat die was (|uite in earnest, meant
ion& ^fide what alio said, and reckoood fitlly on our bdiof in hci* relation.
*' LtsnbciXt" she condnued, "tbey call their capital ; but what a cii[tital !
Beaviii help ua ! I [ere in Vienna if yoM have n florin in your hand you
can do something with it, can have tonte dlvi-riion, can satiafy your
faun^r. But there, if you haye two you can pet nothing for them — no-
tluD^ w1iat«Ter ; the eoffec-hinutes are had and tUtliy. A cii[t of ootTuo
eoats twoiity-fonr Icretitierf, and then it is good for nothing. A pcnoii in a
pablio office, witli ft salary of (KX) florins, eanunt cren say he has hts owu
Itniig out of It. not to speak of bread for bis chSdrcn. My uhcIo went
hum one coffee-house to onotlier for two months togeitier, when wa w«ra
fi«t there, befor« he could make up ■ rubber of whisl."

Just then wc rvnchcd Nnsnlorri wlicrr a niitnl)cr of liackncy-coadies were
in waiting for tlie nossengvn hy tho Litix steinibitats.

" Tlici« I lu all Lvnibers, a cit; with »U,(MX) iiibabituts, if the peopl»
can be called iiilialniaiiu, uiere am iml h» niaiiy liuckiwy-coMcbea aa jrou
see here ui one plaoo^ I uaura jrou t>iprv itrv not mare thao a <lo»u ui tlie
whole town. I lived vith my uador and nrbon the mnt«r came wc went
to the tuBtmhly. My undfl bad dnaaed himaelf of counie) and bo had 1 ;
I was qiiit« wuv, mjr neck I ru>.ui, and of rourae I liad my hair nioperlj
drcOTtd, u w» BbcmM here in Vinnna tA go to *» HMcntbly. Wc orore
lliera at half-past tea. thst was togn «nou);h, for who tfaiaks of goioff to
•o aMemblj- in Vienna before dpTea o'cloi-k ? xiH all the comfmay waa a^
aenibled, and ai long as I live I shall nexer foi^t it, kll in Uieir fan, soma
ena in riutpskins. and boot* and ipan, just as tlicy go in U><; iiti«et4.
Al I and my uncle wcro taking nur places, the |>eaplD called to i;«cb
other ' SeAaM's die Schtrab'n ! ScJiaut'a die ^/iwah'n I' (Look at lb»
Swabions!) TAy undo, who understood FolUh, tnui>Ut«d to me all thay
said of MS, tbc Uuulv-]i-gp>d fellows [ Jcwa and gipsica are the>o ia
■btmdance^gipaiet (oli, it is scaiid&lou») in whole gang^ Tbi-y !■*« in
% state of ttoiery that is not to be described, even when somediing ia dniie
(o better tlieir condition. But m tlint eouutrj eneh tlirow-e the blame
upon tin: other. Tlio iioblcniau hhv* tliv |MR»aiit 15 lazy, iiiii) the jieasant
says tlui nnlilciiian b>u iiiithiiig fiir him but a whip. And tlien n>nu>timea
the Jew's turn eonics. The Jews, ah, I awure you tlu* people — '' Hare
tho AiitiLiiitn eloquence of our talkative cotnjiaiiion whose innate aala-
pathy to Hiingariiuiit and GaliuiAnt, acdtcd by appUnM!, ran on in a
5ti«am as fluent as molten wax, was iottirTHpted by anotbct- denoription of
oratory, that of the waiu-r of the Klailenteiiburg inn, ae lie o|K:nod the
door i)f thi! eoadi, and invttvd ut to (r^-t out. Wu did 10. and hastened
to the cfMivcTit.

The tradition respecting tlko [oundation of this convent that it was
endowed by Leopold llie Iloly, in eoinotemoration of Ilia having Iwjre
fouiid tlie li>st ^eil of hid conmrt, the beautiful Margravine Apieu, on an
eldor-buili, niu re])eatcd to us, ik^ tt U to all the Uiotiswida of travvllera
who yearly kiitK'k for ndmimion ut its |^t«s. In the trciiaurv of relics we
went iJio i>hiiwD a piDL'L> of tho oldBT-busb, a rag of the veL, and a frag-
ment of the skull, under wliiMe protectiue roof tbo thou^t of such a
Ibundatioa was firat huti'hcd. Tho legeniLt of tbe CathuUc church are
really snmetimeji inconecivably paltiy. Wlial a fuss tlivy liave ninde of
that princely veil, whnee loss wm at once so very eimple and so very iuug-
■tificant i lu a picture tlicy have even rtjireacnted » troop of baby luigvls
busied in restoring- the veil to the Mnqrruvinff. And to found a convent
on such an incideut I The ihin^ wduU \w iiWird, even if tlie veils of our
Chriitian lodios hod tlic mystic iigniSeance of the Maltnin^iua veils, Uiolow
of whicli might be supposed to include iht low of half their womanhood.

Put out of liiuinour by the^ie refleclions 111 tin- ntlic-rooni, we n^quBsted
to be shown die sptenmd librAry, that we mieht have soniclhiiiK re*-
aonablu tii took tit ; but t)ic lirat book that fell into our Itands was Cliro*
njcn Austria! by Joliann Rascli, and the tirst remark that struck on us
opemnu: it was, that Noah must havo been Arcbdttke of Auittia, beeause
mien Lao wtttert of the dulugc had subsided, and ho as sole loni and ruler
of the eaitli hud taken possession, Austria mtist have be«n included. On
a cloicr czaiiiiuadon of this remarkable book, I found among other anto

•

KlOSTTRITEtrBtnMI.

aad pott <Ii)uviaa o«cvrrenc«^ aot taeotitmci in my otKcr hiitorji, t
oompJBt* Vat <>f AusLnan rul«rs in direct ttcsceat &mn ^<oah.

No Ims tlian forly prioe«« (heathciui) were enumerated^ thaa nrenl
Jeiti»b. Then th« cAro&ieler obnorrw, " IWtheit pnncci Bd^ittii Tided in
Aiutria, and ccrtBuilv not fewer than botbd." To these succecdrtl tho
Cliristiaii nilera Roluitin, lUptan, Amaouo, &e., a. hundred princes in all,
whom the enzy ehronidcr laA iaTuled with priocelj hoaours, down to
the Babeober^^orSi ctcYen ia nambcr, and the Ilajtsbui^-ni, fiftvco.

The author of this book, a romii.rkable one in a psychological, if not in
•n hiitorical p<Ht>t of view, was * teach^ in tne Scotch convent oi
\']cnns, and wc most cviioua port of the itoiy ii, that no joko it io-
tcnded. but all In (oriouslv nivnnt. It is diligciitlr cumpilcdt uid printed
in the old, firm, cai-eful, coiuicieutious type of tb« hat century. Tb« intact
dnlv cf e*ery occurrence is carefidJy ^ivoo ; h<Mr long after tho creation of
the world, liow long ftfi«r the dclu^, and how long before tlic: biith of
Chrict. For vxantple :

*' la tlie year 1807, aftor the creation nf (ho world, in the I5l*t
venr after Ui« dclugv, and the 21>'(itli before On; birth of Christ, Tuisoo
Drought a grvai pni>[ilv with lilui fnmi Aniuinia, (lenii&nii and Weiides,
trnvag irbom wtre twon^-fira ooiinta, and aliout thirty pHnncw."

AH the TinouB nadinn of the priocee' oanic», their sundry aliases, an
alfo carefully noted. ^ In the year 2390. after the ereation of the world,
734 after the dclue<>, livnd tho GitrmoD Hereules, Hercules Alemanntciu,
tiao ETerculo. Aorj^lc, Argk, Cxck or Argloii, the * IJcro with the 6eraQ
Uon,' which he lends in a chain, and bears as a cogiiizaaoe in ha shield."

The whole is illustrated with picrtures, and the coat of arms of every
pdnco u given. ^Vbraham's is a golden eegle in & black ahield, plaeea
uUiqudy.

Miuiy historiographers Iisve laboured for tbo glorifimtion nf tlie old
houM of Aiwtris, liut none have gone about tlieir work in • way to
bo «t all ooniporcd to Joliaao IWvh's. Cait it be that in lus time
(he lived at the begtoniug of ilie ITlii century) people were so Gar
Mekuided io the fiigs of vanity uid st^lf-esteem, as to give currency to hit
book?

A further search in the maenilicent rooms appmpriated to the Ulirar^'of
this convent showed that some rvolly intereating books were to bo fouml in
it: IliiDfetiuigt^rs lithogru^ from the DrMMO eallery, Salt's Viow of
India, Dcuon's wmk en Ejgfi, and other fplcowd works of that d»-
Kiiption.

The innmaboki? and inantiKFiptB have all been lately bmntd in Roaia
Icatber, whidi ia iaid to preserve them from tho wonns. 'Hicre arc sonw
oh) mlMola and breviaries, and a costly edition of Pliny, on such indestnio-
tible paper, with so tasteful yet so clear a typo, and with so soLd a binding*
U in our times ar« no longer to be ecco. Thv incuniibultc must be verw
old, for the numbers of the paper, and the superscriptions ore made witn
tlie pen. Tlw old Ii&athen sag« Pliny was painted, in gay colours in fmnt
of his nork, with a gloiY like that of a saitit round his naid, writing hia
Evaagelium, like St Jmn t proof eooqgh how highly, ereo in the niiddla
ages, tlie monks valued the ensstc works of the aucienla.

1 here 010 also a great nianbcr of old German poems and Wenda- I
took out Ofw and found it gnawed by the mice. " Eii, eh," said tnc fatlia',
who was ahiowbg mc round, " sonui wicked ammal has been tt our bookl

168

KUWTEHNEUnCRO.

Mgaia ! Tt'« very Ult^lily vnittcn. I can't n*^ tbcM oM Ivtten, mi I
don't mv tu rcsil them, I like to read a pliuu vood (iriiit !" Thru *tep*
|riiig to the window, h« liumiDMl a mdody whidi soa« orgBn-grinila' «r«s
plnjuiG; in the street below, mad obsorvcil, " That b a pretty hor. It i>
fi^ni Uie I'uritani." I nimmaged further in the mouK magaoiK, and
feund another old dusty book. It ww called, " On the Gpnii«ii War rf
BoTtkdcr," thiu) ia Aiutiia ia enlttled tliu wai- of Charks V. ngainrt tlio

nataola. WomajracqiuntaTcrrmfficient notion of tlmcttntvntaof this
by only reading the title. It is alike t!hartLCt4>risliR of the roaoner
of earning on the war, ad of the epirit of the liruM which (Rotated both
the mr and the hook. It nuu thus : " Of tlie Grnnnn war of Ilortlrdcr,
with the detpatchM, iiiteUigms^ iiutniotimu^ oomjJaints, tni^Geatiaii^
written command!, nunimmaea, ommtelfl, d«lil>»r>tionR, jiit ti fi eaBoi u^ pio-
tntationf, aiid reciuatinna, re}ilii», deuiali, details, alliances and counter
alliances, ordfru and toMimuuials, tutten of content aiul dissent, eliaUenges,
admonitioru, tnicp*, bftttU<8, fight«, and akirmisKcf, with ntif wotd the cauMB
of tho German war." The mere reading of thia tjtlo makea one fed (juitv
Holy Rouiao and GemiRD entpirv-ith.

Klfwlomeubur^, oa it now xtuiiilx, iRonn of ihoce Htately giaut erections,
reared at the command of the a^rcatcEt architect Austria ever aw on th«
thnme — Charles VI. It is jirojected in the same grand Style aa all other
■rv.hilecturftl works of thxt wonitrch, and liku many it[]ii-n) iilmunfortnoaMrly
((or fortunately?) iiM completed. Want of money, liip tuddon death of
Charles, and thowarain iJiesucceeding'reigTi of Marin Theresa, prevnited
the completion, whiidiWflambMnueiiUy often nlt^'inpted, but never achieved,
as mon«y no longer flowed >o Ireely cui under the adnnntitration of the
former monBrcli. Much has been done, however, of late ; the library is
new, a magniAci-iit itaircase 1i:l5 been built nt Uie P-nxt of many ihoutand
Borins, the great marble hall i> finiihMl. The giant hall which has long
reiu^ed as thu wi>rkineti left it a hundred yean a^, it it honed, will bo
cleared a* Hooii an the new cliurch, which the convent ia hound to erect in
one of in pai-ijiheii in the aiibiub of Hitxing, shall be completed. The coat
ho* bocn eatimnte'd at 100,000 floHiw, but it will not be bw than 150,000.
The cftivcnt Inut tlio pationa^^x- of not IvsU tliari twcuty-fivc churches.

Klostemeuburg ia partictilnry ricll in vln^y.xrds, and their proiliicp flows
from llie tuna of all the Itouses of public entcrtninmeut far and npar.
Ueuco it lias acquurod omon;^ ihe ptM>ple the nickname oF tho " ninnbg
tap" (rwm rmnendm zap/en), j ittt as Gotlweih, on account of its abwid.'mce
of^roady money is called " tho jingSiny penny'' (?Km kUngrniifn pfrnnig) ;
and even as the futhor* of Molk nrr called the "lonls of tlw joliy pecka"
(rf*> HcrrcH vom reUirmlen MtUeri), on account of the many fertile corn-
fields they poiBieM.

The Lmpopor CharlM VI. wished to make Klostcmeuburg hii «3ua!
summer remdonce, and built tlic convent for a chfltcau. Near the culli of
the monks there is a range of magniticiMit apartments called tho emperor's
apartmenU, which aro of iiii manner of use to them, but «n the contraiy,
a great burden. Ite chief cujhiIii of the bulklinfr is surmoniiU'd with an
impiittl crown, and tJje leaser ones with the an'hdncal hat. The imperial
crown and the gigantic cmthions on which it n.'ats, is an exact copy in iroQ
of the rual crown of Vienna. Within, it is roomy enough to eontJiiu
twenty men, and beams aip ntn'tched aeros* to giie it greater firmEies*.
The precious stones ore great iKUsei of ir<in.plat«, p»nt«d blue and red,

XLOnUUCEUUURG. 169

I tn RnaB windovri or door« whence a iride prospeet may l>o

[ic arcliducal hot on each of ttiR otiittr ctipolu has ben mora risiitfi*
anct than the crown, for KlottcTDeuljurg- u ttis nriiicipal eonvcnt ol iho
uviidachy, and u Um ffiufdian of tho veritable hat iut-\f, or rather, call*
H it* own. The moaks aaintain that the liat belaugs* not to the tiii[>eriat
liousc, but to the coQveot, aud when horaa^ ij to be rendervd to the
emperor as nrchdulce, ho must borrow ihu hat of them. Thv Archduke
JMiixiiniliaa dedicated tliU hat " ex devotions" to St. Loopvld, tk« patron
Mid immortal proptietor of the laonaslcr^-. On tho occaaion of receirine
luniage, the Iobii of the hat to the new omperor, or archduke, U atuodea
bjr a number of anti^iit^ ecremoniee.

'IV» inipcrinl commiiiinoiicn, ^ncrnily itoblcmcn of some old Austriaa
nee, nidi as the Ilardeggs, Schdnboros, Arc, come on the appoiDtcd daVr
«QOrt«d by a detaehment of cavalry in a state equipof^ dranm by «uc
Iwnee, and arc received before Uic ^tcd of thv vonvriit by the nhole
chapter with the "reigning prelate" at tli<fii head. In the oourta
of the convent, the " BinftrsrAaft" of tlie town of Klost^niDtibai^
paradd in uniform aud armed. Aller a frieudly welvuuic, tlic iUurtrioua
ffuesto, attended hy the wholv cumpnuy, go to St. Ijc«{M>I(1'k rJiapcl, where
uiey hear the service and sing a To Deiini, afU'r which tlie " rei^inv
buiiop," in full poiitil]<:alil>u» and grasping th« golden crosier adonica
frith precious stone*, admired by travellera iu the: trciutury of the couvcnt,
repairs to the thmn^TOom whero he gives audience to tne iinfieriiil t!oni-
misnoiien, and demands thoJr bitnnp^. Tho commiasioiicTa in the old
•tylc maJcc a speech to the " well beloved, pioui and fiullifal," and declaro
tMrciD that a new lonl and ruler is tnuioed to invm himself with the
•mblems and gloriM of majesty, wherefore be requests the convent will
Und htm the old hat. Then the biahop rijee and gravely declnre^ tliat ho
eees no leamn to the contraty; wlieixupoii the chapter williugly and sub-
mtsaively grant the rec|uest of the illustrious xujrplicniit.

Here ends the fint act of tht» !nii>ortatit drama, and to gather strength
•nd courage fiw the scrand, the party adjouni to tha baTiquet-Iablu, where
the " Running Tap" shows ittelf no niggnnl. ami auuiy a gla» i* emptied
to ihe pmsponty of tho old hou«e of AuEtriiL

AfWr the banouet, the pariien proceed to tho dcliwi^ and reception of
the hat: hut in the- tint plaice, its gcnuinene^ii and identity In every n2tii>ecC
must be a«coRnined. The imperial onttimi^tooers draw out an old paper
ou whidi it IB deacrib(»l in detuil. Tlie great blue xippliiiv on tlic top, in
the centre the pearls, rubies, and emeralds, the sable tailt, every thing is
doeely exanuDM and cntHied, and then die hat ia pecked into its red
leathern «as<i, locked up, and carriod down to the gate by the dean, assisted
by two priceta.

Here the ease is dehvered to the commissiunen, who plore it in n litter
borne by two mulen. The litter is followed by twelve of llie Austrian
"noble guard," all scions of ancient race; then tome the vomminioners in
their carriagv, then tho empty carriagD of tlie bishop, and bcJiind it a pari
of hia flock, the burger guard of Kloftemeoburg on borsehack with tneir
tnim^ts. Tho latter, and tho empty csrriag*, only go as far a« the
; Soottkdi gate of Vienna, where the national guard is stationed to lelieve
them and convey the bat to it* destinaUon. The return of the hat to the
«oar*bt t> conducted ia Mmilai- ttyiv, but with wmcwhac lea ceremony.

170 KLOSXEBNEUBUBO.

The archdake St. Leopold ia thepatrOQ and ptotector of die Aiutziaa
BTchducliies, but Nepomucene and Fkrian are also supposed to watch oyer
^eir safetj. Leopold is buried Iteie ; the enamel-work on his nKmuinent
is admired bj all traveUeni, as in duty bound, although the place is so daric
that scarcely any thing can be seen of it. But the beautiful stucco-worie
of the chun:h really deserves the hig^ieet admiration, and I do not think
that any thing so perfect ia to be met with elsewhere in Germany. Such
luxurious fulness of form^ such correctness of drawing, such a solidity of
workmanship, which, after tlie lapse of a hundred years, holds and looks
as if it had been done yesterday, and such taste m the diviaon and ar-
rancement of the groups, make it really unique in its kind, and do the
highest honour to the Augustine chapter of Klosteroeubui^, if they had
louly a hand in the matter. I must confess, that after I had seen dl the

?lendouia of this convent, I felt as if I had enjoyed a banquet.
wo gentlemen who were my feUow-paasengers in the Stellwagen
on my return, owned to similar feelings, only there was this difference
between us, they had really dined. They had dined with the prelate, and
were fiill of his praises. On the way th^ pointed out to me a monument
raised by a former prelate in commemoration of a great danger &om
which he had escaped. Be was driving past the spot, when an ezplocdoD
in a ndgbbouring Turkish redoubt, hnrlect some thousands of cannon-balls
into the sir. One of these balls passed obliquely through the roof of the
Inshop's carriage without doing hmi any personal injur)', and, in memory
of this preservation, he had had this ball riveted on the pointed summit o£
a column, with an inscription explaining the motive for the erection of so
nngular a monument, which seemed to me to announce more plainly than
any thing else I had seen, the prodigious importance of a Klostemeuburg
prelate.

nUNGARY.

OEDEHBURO, ZINZENW3EF, ESTKKUAZY, ASD THE NEUittEDLER

LiULE.

Ox leaving McDua. I took core nnt to leave behind Uio only liungarisu
won] I was Dimter of, — naniclj", " Vonapat' signifying' "good day;" fiii
even i ungle wonl of tlie langiiagc of a country we «io about to enter,
)■ a precious little initrument ior unloeldng hearts, if one do«f but know
to uw it> A hnndret] wonJa Atid fontia uf Hpcucb forni (lu incstiouiblb
tnuime in sucb a c«s«.

Imtnedintely on pasnDg tho frontier, tJia riUage of Potselikine, wbere
we st«pp«d, pi«sBBl«d aa oatiiel/ diOcroat aspect bom tJiose on uw Au*-
trian tiae. fbe wiodow-shuttera of die hoiu« wem of iron, on acoouott
I «M told, of Uu fraquent ooDflagimtiout ; tli« staUff-men worn the coa-
tum« of butelwn, ana caiiiad tlic impUmcota of Ui« trade, aa they are re-
quired to eicrdse this twofold occuj^uUion, tmiaeiue berdi of cattle
oandnualljr paanafif thraugh the |)latr<>. Oiii,> of tlicm mm, vrbom I q)ok»
will), proved to Im; an Aiutnnn dcfortcr, wlio bad nm away tO erade the
laws of recruitment ; and nbcn I asked bint if bo did not tear being dis-
covered BO close to Vienna, he answered, *• Oh, tbey luiow very well vrbere
X am, but here in Hungwy thc^' can't lay hold of mc. If thoy tried it, I
' ~, soon get togctlicT bundxvda of (lie country fcllowa ; there ore plenty
'iof ua here witLoat Icare, but nobody says a word to ua," Four German
Jliil«s beyond Vienna, therefore, the Austrian police, and the (octal order
dependant on it, loc«« its power. I met hvre many " Xritelwagen" long
caniagea, in which the people sit bnck to back, crammed liill os mlgriioa
ibr llie shrioe of Maria Zell in the mountains, and ntlomed witli large
iioMga}'!. Tbo driver sal in the front, driving witli one hand, and boldinr
ia tlw other a prayer-book, Erom which he ciiaiitcd aloud, what tbn ptl-
pima aung in clionu aft«r him. SomatimeB I met wholv troojti «n foot;
that aiitii«Iy covered the road, broad aa it waa, men, women, and girls,
nwatlj provided with great umbrellaa to protect tbeiii from the sun, ting-
ing, and pttiying, led toinetinMa by a eoiiiiecmled banner. They were
pnncipoJly Gennaaa, aa indeed am the greater [lart of the population for
■one milM beyond Oedenbiug. The Mogyan, I woi told, did not join in
ikcee {nlgrimages. The day (the 20th of August) waa also, among tlicje

OEDEXBTTRG, Xi:?ZEKDO]

_ ; feMinL It wu St. St«|Sirt Sy, on wliicli iim hands,
•nd i b«liere a jmrt of ibt iknll, of the laint are cairied iii pnKiiMon
tbrau)!')) Offn ; and in sll the villn^ wo pauod through, wo fnuiid th*
people ill Suuda/ clothes and making holidAv.

At Drulnu^, a village jiartiv iuhahitea by Croatu, we found aome
Croat girl* uiemblMi round a holy tpriag. Above it was an " Kccw liomo'*
to storie, covered with diut and couhvIh, the tttVtr trivUing out from under
it. ] aikcd one of them if thr water was giToi. " To be sure it is,"
thev answered, ** doesn't it ruu off from God hinmOf." As many as thir^
Of forty people were drawinff or drioking the wat<>r, and one of the gira
biought nie lier nitcKcr. To the great aniuaemeut of the bystunaen^
when I wi*nl to drink, I ptjum] it all over nw, not being yet avi-anc lliat
tlio Ilungnrinn jiitcJiore iiAv« a little trodchomiu hole near tlic handle,
on wliich it ia necessary to put one's finger, if one docs not wUh to or^joy
the fluid ingde and outside at the saint* inotnent.

Along the nestom side of the Npuniciili-r Lake, and the Styrian iaxf
li«r as »r as the l>nivv, the Tillo^ei are inhabited hy a mixed population
of (icrmans niid Cioals. At thut point begins tliu tenitoTy cxdusivtdy
peopled tiy Croatians. In the (Jedeiiburg Comilat, or county, tlierc an
80 Croatian viliages; in that of \Vt<'ielburg, II; in Eisenborg, (>4; and
in other countiu not so inniiy. TIrmo ou the Neusiedler Lake an; caUod
"Water Ci-oats. These Croats scattered among the Gfniiain, are perhaps
the frngments of the original population of the country; tht' dialect that
tliey (peak among iWninelvei, is Cniatian, but they almost all speak
Oemiun, though not IlungariaiJ. They srrve as drivers and v-a^oncrs
all over the oauntry, but arc said by the Gemiaus to l)e too fond of their
ease to devote LbeiuselvL-a to agriculture.

The Croatian wcimpii wear very gay cokiurs, the girb have bodices eni-
bicndered with gold, as stiff as coats of iciiiil, and wear their hair ia tbl
&^on prevailing over the greciter part of the worid, — natnely, hanging
down iTciiind in long plaits, and tuiti;^''lc(l with coloured ribbons. The wo-
men uenr large Iioodt or cnifs, fn>n) tvliirh depends a large piece of stuff
dworated with rich eiiibToidery and lace. They often come from tlio
<ountry with iheir giiwiis tucked up, and ciurjing tbwr ihoca and stockings
in their lijuids, but sit down at a little disliinif from the church or village
they nre g<>>'ig to, make their toilets, and then march on in grand stata.
Tfa« Cmatian men are attired in still more showy style than the vroaieR,
"with jackets and wni«lconts covered with fkiwem luid enihri>idery, and
broad- brimmed liats with great busbet) of tlowitrs and feathers, in the nnm-
bsr and beauty nf which tney take great pride.

They are very fond of warlike enf^untors nntong- themselves, and those
who feel especially that wav di»[)«!<ed, Mick in (heir liats a long glistening
peacock's feather. These feathers arc called *' defiance fealliern," and wlio-
ever mounts one of tb^ni must feel pretty sure of his own strength and
skill, for lie exposes Limwlf, by so doing, to the remarks iuid attacks of
all th« rest. Tliey often eome lo pitched battles on a vt^rv ningni6cent
scale, and if they are interrupted by th-e police in towns, nrc sure to finish
the engagement in the fields. The swni-i which I myself witucsswi in
the Croatian village* were, howe^-er. of a very twnceful nature. Li a lonely
ehurehyard, iii the vicinity of a solitary- church, I found an olil man lying
prostrate iu prayer upon a gruvci on which atood a rough stone croM, witA
the iuacriptian, " Here lies Agst«chin. Xaye: died lb'^9" The mourner

A)n> THE ^'EUStEDLEB LAKE.

infenncil us thut tliU was his wifi:, wito k^- there with 1i» twn obiMrpn, And
that he was now lefi, a> be repeatnl ivo or tiirett thtii-i, " c]iiit« alono — quit*
Rlooe." U« thowed us • ckve in the churchvnrd rntucly liIlM nnth humui
bones, sud to hkvn lain there from the ttnie of ihe Turka. These bone» were
re^ilftrly biiilt up iiito a wall, luitl unnnc pltnu Croatian «ronien bnil de<!Q>
r«t«d the iiit«nttc«a with tibboas and Dowcn. To tome of the ikullt th«
hair was aCiU hanging.

We inet ou our mad to Oedenbur^ anny waggont laden with rags, and
my concbmnn inrnrmod m? thiry weit j^ing to Hw Austrian nunufodariet;
cbservin^. " The nuogariaoa send us all their ngs* and rubbiifa, that wo
nm' make something dew out of tLem,*' and ii is chamcteristic of bath
natioot, that* great deal of raw material U scut from Hungarv to be worked
tip in Anstnai whiUt twnc over tmrvU iu lui oppo^itu dirvction.

Oedcoburg ii th(^ greatest cattle- market in Uongir}-, nnd most of tfao
anijnals iold there pua ou to Vienna by the road by which we had come.
W« frcquenUy observed trace* of their pasfagc in Kttle marshy ipot», where
the f^uud hod been torn and routrd up.

At length we <li:ieorered the town of OedenburE; Ij'ing in a pkin, and
surrounded far and wde with «abbaffe-field». it is a^ old a town as Vienna,
and d&Uui from thu Roman time, its prvsciit Huu^arian naim-, isaproDiOt
being a corruption of its Latin one. The Gcmuno hnrc mtlnl it Oed«n-
butg, or *■ desert eity," on necount of the desnlntt' iip|ic9.ninco of the eimiitry
8um>undiiig it. Coming from Austria, at all oretits, the naoie app«4U8
ajj|ili<*Ahli- <iioug}i, for there ix mow mute tluui cultirated land to be scco;
Inil soim nfUT [iiLMiiig tlii.<i Lowii, little vinfvard* begin to oriiu on tlw right
and \efU The monr. imngrtant lie in the airivtion of thn \eusiMlli.-r Lave,
where the air is milder than at Oedenbnrc itself, and where the inhabitaufat
of the town have lands mid vineyards producing the wines destined to alake
the thirst of Moravia and Silejia.

Though thv tow-n uf OedcnburK is principally inhabited by Gvrinani,
one nici'tj everywhere with lIuRg&rian apjtellatioiii and intcripUnns, csp^
eially at the inns. The one I entered waa dcdicniMl to the " Magyar
Kiral} hon," tliat ia, to tlic " King of llnngarv," and I drank my eodcu in a
** Kafiduu," on the sign of which a person m the nadoosj costume was
depicted presenting ice and coBee. The company at table was various,
eoniifting of »ome Poliali eavalry-ofEcei**, who were marching' throaigh the
town with their companies, a few Englishnica who vniro escorting tnenly
full-blcxl English horses to some llungxrtan magnate, some noblen and
eitiiens of Omlenburg, and lastly a Vienna nicrchaiit, a man of ta»te — at
^least be said bo much ^>out vmut of tasbe b otiivn, that we unturally in-
~ ired that he regarded himself as in full pofseasinn of it.

Beyond Ocdvnburg vo agun potved through s Croatian village, whor«
vh was full of pretty, clean, white-robed women and girls, (iTmying
I St. Stephen and the blessed Viigin. To this succeeded a German, auo
■After that B luiugied (iemuin and Croatian village, and at Isiit wo arrived
1 at Zimendorf, the Knt Magyar locality. This place b^ongs to the renowned

Count S , wliose poasesaons extend along the sonUieni shore of tli»

lale, and join the Esterhnzy estates. Near tlie town, in a handsome park,
lioh in fine old trees, lies the taitle of this nobleman. It >■ of handaotn*

174

OEDENBDBG, ZIVZEKDOttF, ESTEBHAZT,

architectorei and Btted up iti' tho uitcrior in the English stjlc, vitli com-
fort and elegnoce.

TIm) cutl« «-u occninied at the tim« of tny arrinl merely by s«n-ants and
officer* of tb« Iwiuehold, but tlic twuut, nbo wu in Vivnno. )ia<l bad tbs^
Idadneii to give otden t)uit my party, (.'omiMtiiifj: of myself alotic, «1»ni)d
imitiid to remun a day or two, nnd be trated u owner of the place. Sob
■poitnicnti oa tliv luwci- iiUii^' vmxv opeaed for my aooommodation. 7% ^
by among flowrr-bntls in lltr iiiidillf! of the garnen. I found a aleepin^j
tootn unth II b«d^oad of Ttallaii [iruiiortion«, a tofn of oriinital liuttry, sndj
•one loungiog and rockinc chairs, at for the indulgence of s great {^rftod-n
(iulier. 'Iiie dining and Bitting rooms were of equally grand dimension^?
all wa* in the inoft briiiitirul onli-r, thi- funiiture admirably Icepi, and ere^
pipes stood ready f3l«'d, ns if tHoy hod jiirt ex]>rctod imeh a gnect a* myaelC

Several servant wore always in attendance to fulBl all my wishes, and
the coolc beraed to be iofnniied what 1 would have prepared for supper,
nnd wluit wuie I wiui acGuitomt^d tci drink. There ore many people in tha
wvrld who esprois a, f^nw deal of enthusiasm for aolitudv and a honnit
life, and I helicre rucli a hemutog? as that in which I now found myself
vonld be exactly to the taste of such entliu^ioste. The upp?r roonu, par*
ticttlarly, wcrv arranffed wiUi a ta»U' and elegance rni-viy seen out of
Loudon or Paris. Tlic libmry had many mogtiiliectit co{>ic» nf Frcnclt
and English books, beside* an ahundani'o of utefiil und tnlfrestiiig woricfll
on all subjects, from which, every morning and evening, 1 liad some trana- i
porttil to my cc/A One of thr M^lontis liad ita nails adorned with porbuits'
of the ancestors of the count's family; among oilier*, that of an iirch-
biihop of Gmn, wlio had exp^ided for the benefit of hi» fatlioiliifiil, ia
bridf;T^ fortilicntiouH, und otht-r jmblit; work.-*, no l«fts a sum tliau " vigesiet
et srrut cmtrna triginta mHIia trecnUi Florttii.'*

llungarj* has at ^1 jK-noJa iMiastod of disintomrtwl patriots, who hara
laid tlie«e offerings on the altar of their country, and no family bun pro-
duced more such men. than that under whose hospitable roof 1 now found
mytielf. The present head of tho familv. .is well as hi) father and grand-
fatlier, have all rendered their naincn ilfustrioug by irplendid liberaliliM of
this kind, nioli a> tlic fonndation of the Uungoriau Museum, uf the Uua-
garian l.il«iary Society. Ac.

My abore-mentioned hennitnge lay not far from the Xeusiedler Lok^
tOWard« wUcb kd a lung and Ix-uutiful Hvenuc- of linden -tivL's. I de-
termined, ^lerefore, to pny it a nsit, and wni ittt<Miit<il thithiT Ijy an
Knglbh Mrront of tlie count's, i^fr. Jolin miido nie aci[iiainted on the way
witii a couot^'man of hie, employed tn superintend the stud attached, to
my hermitage. It ia a >«ry common thing to fiitd Rng1i<ihnien in the ser-
vice of the riungiu-ian ni>tiU«. HiiiUliTig bridgct at P«th, makinj^ roaiU
over the difficult grtmnd of the luwnr Danube, blnsting roflia at the Iroa
Gates — ererywhcro one finds Englixhineo, and everywhere b it all tho'
uelter for tlie works that we do so And them.

As WD Tode along, Mr. John related to me his own hlstoi^'. Ho had
formerly acrrcd in the Englith navj-, nnd hecD in China and the East
Indies, but had been aftenrarda wncKcd in the North Sea. fie had been
hospitably trtoced by the Danes, who sent him hack to London, where he
was engBgwl tut a working o^-er»e«r of Uie Peatb bridge. There lie mot
with a severe accident and at length found hta way to nis present asylum,

175

where Iw wu oceupied in coiwtracting on die lake a. little harbour for tbe
jaolits nod boat« whicK tl>« ooant wL boUt An it.

Tlu; uiet of tbe lake toe at tiua pert name hundred feet higb, Hlnpinf ,
lumerer, eerily down to tlie tow «hate. llie evenue 1 hsve cpdcBn of
Icadj to the iBnunit of tho biuik, wlioiicv thmr i% n fiiio ri«w over tlie
water. It teniuaatee io a g'ra^'Ci irlicro there ij a little clui|>ol, ontl u mo-
nuniRut to tL dccewed count, who here met lib death by a n.\\ wKilv bunt*
ing. We got raaie Huiij>rarian boatmen, ntid rowed ntit n liulo <ny into
tho Iiko ; thu water was CKtrvnicly smooth, but a laiit lay on its surface,
which was broken by no livinf^ thin^ hut mir frail cauoe, and >oiite digliu
of wild ducis. Mr. John infonned mo that thev Bometimeii prooewled Hi*
&r u the op]>nnCe extremity of tb« lake ; and that a new yacht nu* aoon
tn be launclicd, w)Hm a fU|; would bo iKiistrd, the oaly one timt had ever
been unfurled on tbe lake. Mr. John was the adminu of the fleet of the
■* Ferto tara," (the Hun^^&n name of tbe bike,) and if^ u a eommon
■ilor, he lind ft>rnivr]y sailed orvr tJic ffmt ocean, and round tlie wide
wortd itself, lie might now coiufoit hinualf tike Csesar with the reflection,
that it woj better to hold the lit^t rank in a fleet of cockboats, than a se-
eondary one in an Eng-ltihtuau-of-wor.

The Ncusicdirr Luke ho* the tame colour m the DniiuW, — namely, a pale
milky ^recii. The saodsof tlie river, also exactly resemble thoee of the
•borctt of tlie lake, and it has been imagined that by means of the cele-
brated whirlpool, and a subti-rraiLeaii cliannel, there is a conimtmica.tinn
between tlieni. This is very iiiiprobabli-, Init there is another ktud of sub-
tetranean connection which ui by no iiuutiut ih>; nnmelv, by tlie crent
marches and the loose epuogy soil, Ivinc; bctwooa the river and the lake.
I obHervwd that some piles, driven m for tlie intended harbour, had sank
eentideralily, a rare inaicatiou of the lemeneat of the soiL

CoDccmiDg tlic iocrcasv or decrease of the water of tlic lake there is d
£Sereucc of opinion. The rico|)lc on the lake soured mc that, for several
years there had been a regular decrease : in the dcepeat places it was not
more than acvvn or eight iei;t, and in most not above nvc Tea yearv ago

WHS at least seven or eight fi!wt higher, and bod a depth in some placw
f fifteen or sixteen feeL At tliJit time ic was constantly rising, and liod
eovetMl n conridctsble mimber of acre* witJi barren sand, *o much bo that
several commnnea had deti-riniiiLt] to remove their villitgc!i higher up the
bonk, when swldenly in tlie year 163^, the water fell again ; and lince
then, witli the exeojitinn of an occasional rise, dependant on tbe season of
^e year, it bos been regularly declining. It would Ix; interetting to know
* these risings and fallings oooutnd at regular dttleniunate periods, but
this 1 could not ascertain.

Tbe fleiuii^dli-T Lake in wLatcTi is cot'ered with ice as clear as glais ; and,

I acvouiit of its vliailowness, it fnseie* in the miklest winter, and in snm-
ner it; always lukewarm.

The only town ou the lake ii nuit, the BOiallest of all tbe Hungarian
free towns, but tiic most cclebntt«<) for the rsceiicnce of its winsa W*
eould distinguish, in the distance, lb vineyardg, wlicre various kiuds of fine
grape* were growing. The lake should, in my opinion, ratber be luinied
after this town than Neusiedek winch b a little insignificant place, as, in-
deed, are mort of tlw r)tlwT villigeit and hamlets on the lake. These,
i^ongh tbey are all inhabit4d bv Germans, hare all Hmigarian nnnMS,
nd then are many little {Jaoes inhabitH by Ilonganaai wluch have G«r*

OEDRTBTmO, ZWZEIfDOSP, ESTERHAZT,

mui Sftpellntioni ; and, ind«M), muiy IIutif<;arisn tomu hftre not onlj a
Gtiman nnd Ilungannti, but *.Uo it SUvituiaii iind a Lalta tiftinc. Ou Our
ride back I found aa the ixmuI a Mnj^ai' {K--aKUit-nonkai), reulin^ aloud
wit)) ^pvnt devotion, from a Hungariiia prnyer-bciok. S\\» spokt tin word
of (i<^niiiui, but 1 fvniid ineaim to conrene with licr, W means of nijr
Eoglislimaii, who liiid li^ariit a littU HungBrian. Tlie dilTereiit clia)>tcr«
of the book were uiBcribed— " Th« Litui^y," " Penitence," " Tli« Holy
Mms,'' &c. It vn» )uuidsomel;r bound, and althoti^ tile owoer was very
poor, it wa» rcn' ufatly IcrpL

I asked h«r if it liuu bwti ^'ivcn ti) h«r, and the nnxirend no, alio liail
bourht it will) three fiorins that she hod tayttA up. At horns ah* bad
anouier, called the (lardeii of Rosea, which wu «till aic«r and cosier to
pray out of. How (gladly would I linve f^ven the j^kmI old aoti], who
■Mm«d to hunger and tliint after Hf>-hu«i!iu:ne0, a bottttr ^id« to the king-
dom of lleavon thau these books. Whv wut the not allowed the true
ifnritoal noumhinent of the g;DS|>el ? She aiuwcrcd hU our questions will-
ing^jr, bat wu hy no mctini inclined to |p»fip : indeed, ^ttrnilitj' u seldom
Uw bilisf^ o( a llunpxrian ; thry aro iTii>rily chanLctcn».><l by a crrtaiu
■enouaneH and dignity of mannirr. and their eloquence caeily piu»cs iixto
pathos.

Tliu costliuvKt and Kjdcndour of the plate in whicli my trening' rovol woa
icncd up. dacded my cyet. I felt xmicvthat like ponr Hadji liaba. when
thev persuaded hiia lie was o sultan, t wiu not much inclitied to eat, but
could not help cnjoyinpf the manTier in which every tiling wa« prc!icut«d
En my hermtta^ ; indci^, I »haJl ro):^nI it as a point »f more importiuicc
when I turn anchorite, to have my dishes pre«rtit^ tn ^kl and silver, and
ricbly-eut f^au, than even to have them peculiarly daiiitv in themselves.
Such thiii):pi 11.1 ^>kl(-n nlicafaiitc, however, and ))ii)c-.tpplc8, fruits, jeUieOi
he., inifilit lx« r«(piirwl, oil account, nf their iM-aiitit'iil up[ieamiii'e. nn well
an their perfume. On the followitif* m«»miup I pnid it vi»it tn tho English
boFM* under tho |;;uardiaiiwhip of Mr. Itohinsnn — or Robertson, and en-
tered, for the first tiiiip, tlie houses of some SIii;yyar pirasonta, in atw of
the DMghbauriiig- villngcs. Tliey wt-m all built nllki-, one suity high,
wfaitewashcd, with the fronts not turned to the »tri>H, but to a litt]« court.
Ou tltv «idi; next tbe street ia a small window, nnd nUn a lar(^ thick lieam
running up through the wall and supporting tlio loof. Uelow tiiiii beam
is let into a huge block, which serves at the same time as a house-bench.
The lutirriors pix-sciitt-d no appeanince of extreme poverty, althougk it
must be admitted that all riun^riaa villages are not so well built at Ziii-
zendorf. The peasantry of Hungary are, however, on the whole. bett*!T
ofTthaji those of t^tlilatid or Uthuiinio, though nut bo well, certaiidy as
thoM! of Auatrin.

In the count's stahlea I snw none but fine English hiood honiH, ihs most
disttnguiihcd of which was "Christina," »aid to be tlio finest blood-horse
in Hungnry. Mr. RolnDnm thawed me a printed fccnealagy of this cele-
brateil lady, and I became very desirous to «ee her ; but when I did, I
mutt confess I felt, as I have done on beiufj introduced to celebrated men,
ao little disapjMiiiitmcTit, for I could di.wovvr ii" tnice of those admirable
qualities for which she was famous, — nay, to own the truth, 1 thought
her downright ugly.

" Oh ! Tpu must see her at work," Mid Mr. Bobinnon ; " tliat't the way
to judge. And oven so it is with celebrated men. One nuut see tlieiii

AMP THE NBV81EDI.es L.IKB. 177

at work, for it is only thtn that one aa no^mun in tlimi the g«tuue or
tlie hern ot* diritie inspiiution.

TliQ Riiglidh paaetion for hones and Iiorfc-raccs luu itoea rocenlly Lraiu-
tated liit4> Iluiigarv, as well an some parts of Gtriiiitiijr ; but in ilie fur>
mifT emmtrj- thutv Uiing* arc eamuJ on lu ^nuider ntylu. In y.inWnAojf
alone, tUcro wen no lew thoa two-and-twcnty full-blood marcs, cacb of
which had her own stable, and her own grooto. In currying theni the
ffUovfi mode a peculiar, immiuible kind of noUc, to whidi ttiey told me
tho ICn^EiiU niArog w«re ki a«eii>toni«d, thitt tlicy vrould not ritnnd ftill

I without it, so that the Hongarian grooina hud been ubligcd. to study to
acquire tlie accompltshmeut.

Two Gonnan miles from Zinfeocdorf lies Estcrhax, formerly the prin-
CB|)a) Mut of the pruic«d Eilerliuzy, wid ns it would not lie in mv rokd tO
■b, I inndo ou pxeurooii tlnthrr. Wo met witli a very frii'ndly retTp-
Do, and found •ome Indies from » neighbouring oroviuc^f, who liud also

"'flooie to see the oaatla. It is built in tliv \'vr«&illi-d ityle. Duriug the
Inst century ciiormvuH itiint* were exiicndi'd ujmti it, by ttie PniiiTt!> ot' £»•
tcrliaiy in honour of tlio Eni[>m» JVfaHa Thvit>Mi, wlio frciiiii'iitJy vixitcd
the place. A great saloon was biult with this view, as well as a plcfwnre-
Doloce ill tlie pftijc, in which files cfiampitrrs weie given. The salooD,
)ion«Tvr, wac Ixiriit down hefoiu the cnijirfn had (een it. The nanie be-
flowed on till! plcaiiure-|)alaiv, it \t «Aid, wn» oiggcstod by a ea.'iuiU qiics-

Ftiint put by the cmprOM, tn to how mucJi its erection cost. The piiuco
replied, " eighty thouaaiid flonoa ;'* and tlie sovereign observed, " On ! for
an Katerhnzy, that is a mere bagatcUe ;" and on going out she found

." Uegutvlle' iiucribcd in gwld Icttvn ov<?r tlic gate; aliiw when it has

'gone by the iinnin of " Ciude Bagatelle."

In tnis ]iftlxi>tf is bu apartment so eoustnieted, that miinc pinvcd in the
room beneath is heard it plainly n* if pUyod in the room iteelf. 'fhe rifect
nay have been surprifdng, liul 1 mniiul, Iitlp thinking', that the pleiisureof
niusic is iiicretiseJ by the night of tlie inslruiiient* ; if nut, we nugtil to sit
ill, R eunc^frl-raoni witJi imr backs to the oncheftro. In \iw esulle itself,
although cveiy thing has been of late much neglected, aud many iiingni-
ficent articles carrieil away to other wvatii, whiwe Hituatlons arv preferable,
there lire still tn be fotuid many tk^hly iiitarHting workD of art. It it im-
posribEc to c-nunicratc thorn, for than ue whole suit** of raoms filled with
thi^ui. and oHL- eounot help wondering how tliey all fouud theii' way to
goch an out-of- tlie-way spot of earth, so little favoured by nature. In t!w
vatt track of country noasCMcd by th« l-lAterhAxv*, thtrri; muiit Imve ln-^n
many snoia better adiqited for the site of suirh a caslli.% than this sandy
hill on the edge of a morass.

Among the curiositioj eshilMted, are two small figures of a man and a
woman, of Italian woTkmantlu]>, eomptwd entirely of Venetian !>ea-alielU.
By an iminciise cxpenditui* of labour, the lips tito cltei^is, tlw eyes, llie
[igrrs, llie dress, the boots, the buckles, have all been rmirownteu uecu-
raiely by sliell» of diflWent colours ; uveu tlie liair of the head and beatd,
has been imitated. The flgnrcs arc by no mcaiiii beautiful, but ihev afford
actribing [iroof of tlie variety and richno8s of the Venetian coiicliology.
Twelve tltousand fiorins were paid for tlwin, bnt rather in eon^iimcnt to
• reconiniendatoty letter from the einjirest, brought to Prince uterltaxy
by tlw Boou who had tliein to sell, titan Eroin any desire lie felt to become
t&t pOMMfor.

0BDS5BDB0, ZH^EEITDOfil*, ESTBRRAZt,

In Efterliiu aUn wmv iHuy bInod'luHvo*, and, m buuU, Engfidnm iq
atteadaacc upon thein. 1 vu tcld tWt tin fiareiiU of tltcc* honw bmi .
sold for enornious fnoea in Rngland, tlircr and fonr thoasand pounda^
subline, wbmeo I wu Ind to infer tli« nol>ility of tbc dnldna; I wtm'
sereimkM, Uiud to Umr miutifold poifectiooi, md ibould \mm Kt more
vatoe on am gooA h<Hiest woridn^ hone. The gmt Ertertnxjr rtud is
kept in tlw 0»md <&trict. to the soutl) of tli«> Plactcn Lake, and w and C*
ooluiftcf eiffhl buodred bigh-brHl honofi. b^itde* thestabl«fl,weniitod4M
do^kntiirU, U> vtliidt iii nUnchcd n ffpanlf kitclicn, n o<>urtj)inI fur vx-
vrrW, itid otticr nocDmniodatiou fbr the diflVrrat uw of the cniiiiis oc>
cupnnu. Tficr9 vara no lem than ninety-two Eng^lJM don of fino finmi^
and with pIiywo^oouesnnmBivc of tlwir Bportiti};^ ai|)<unlities, l>ut 1 caa
f«el DO »jFm[ntfay lor them lordly htmliufi; dngs ki^jit iu henli, awl vu not
Bt nil (IUu<wM>d trhrn tlw w)iipii«r>iii rut in nmnttg rhpni with a ^roat whip
ta briiit; tliiMn into order, y«t I should have f^iievod to »cc a lilow umod M
kfaitlthd houso do^, or & dMfili«Td's oompaoioa.

A maouAwtorv of beetToot mpr has now been eslabliihed four yean
in Kdt^rhsi, ami produeH on Ul •vrrn|;i> rverj VMtr, thirty Inmt of l»-
Sucd vugnr. Fnna a huadrvd w^bt of W-i-iviiX, from tin; to &rv nod
lialf pounda of sagar ue made. TUa branch of industry is nm- in Hun-
gsry, havit^^ fini bMn cstabtiibed them twelve y^ara af^ by the family of
Udt-Mrliulchi, Iiut thvrv aic now thirty-tno cstaliliiKiuvuta. Tht l,trg«t
lictiiiiu;^ to the Cuburg Coharys, and thtnv arc Kumr nntillcT thaii thai at
E«tor)uz ; Init if we snppotic tliaC ani> -u-ith anolhw, they tnakv aboitt tb*
nmo i]uaut!ty o) is mndc there, n« may calmlate on a y«arly production
ofa thousand tons ofn^r. If wo nllotm }Kiiiiid nf sugar jmit week to
(jvpry BugufHaliug tndiridual. the want« of abiitit forty thniiouMl pMwnn
will bo snpplipd, which is not an uiiiiitpoTtant eon sidera lion. Forevory hun-
drad tirauaaiid sogar-cntitre, tliere ait in liiiiii^urv, Imwi-vcr, ooe tbousan^
iriiomiwCaatomlialuxunr. Attheeiid«rrlirhi>i r^-nhiry, ibereweteonfy
two eitgar Teliii4*ni>« in all Ifitngarv. onp in f >r<U-iihurf7 ilikI nint in Flame.

It ti uat Eflci'haz but the town <if Eif«iistatlt. nhich is tho cliicf Htat of
tlie £steriuiKy ffovemmati. At the latUr lowu is the eentml-officc of
■dminifttntion fbr aU the ra*t estat**, exiondinif hone* to iJm? other side
of the Pljittcn Lake, m» well a* nnrthward into tlie SlowJick cmintry. Each
of the territories or lordshins is adnunistenxJ by a tnradcnt, residing in
Eueftitadt, and fbiir oountello>ri. Tin gnat mnM of ihe estates is divided
into five distncts, to e«eh of whiob a prefect ii apnointcd, and so oitensiTe
an these, tliat a iircfiSTt \axt nitvu tn Iravel ttm days to grt from one end
of his diattict to the otlicr. Vnder l1ii> [irefitt:* iw&in are the directon
for each nnj^e cttnte, mUi their rentmwt«T«, ttewar^fs, agents, A'e. Someef
f3ic eatlttM navp ft-om twenty to thiiiy villages and hamlet:), and sometimes
a town of larger size. On an nverage they contain about etglit or t«i.

The oldest caiille nf th»- KUiTliiUyx—thnrlK-n-ditary eastle of ttiilanllia,
liei in the Slowack eonntTy, but the greater iiuinWr aa well as the largest
and Dtweat am about the Xoiwiedler I^ke. The i:asile of EL»i':ti!itaiU is
oclehratml for ita ntrJc, and its numerflu<i treosurfif of nrt. It is ile^'flratod
on the outside with the buna of Attila. and tlie leadi-r* of )ii« Magyar*, — -
a tiort of dncorstion not utunmtnon in the caillcs of Ilnngnry. Among
tl»e vRrii»us collertions I was most intervitecl by the gre-at library of Church
Miuie. Tliere were two tbCKUand eom position si of vuriouit luntU, — Masies,
LitanJe^ &e,, bendes two thouaond orutoniM, including (cvcral maQoscnptt

TUE klOKASS OF OANSAG A^*D THE GlTLrA£. 179

«F Hft^dn, wtittau in a e1«u-, dolicate, «1of^nt hnnti, yrry nsliltc Uir eenv]
oS BMtbcn^iL. At iLc time of the Tcatiialfl j^wn In- the Eeterluujr^ tn tlw
EmjircH Maris Tticrcaa, tliey had Iluviln for a Ica4lei of thnt orchouii, uid
(roni I80ri to 1 HI 2, iJnnuncl, tn «rho'ni tJicj «•» indebted for tlw rieh and
bMiulifully Rimnf^ cnll^ctioii of ehtiwli munc «f whieli I have tpokm*
At this Miitlc Ilo^dn comiMHcil hi> oelebruted " NcImh Mau," during a
vJMt pud b^ the mro to Prince Nicholu. Another more reeent EdjiIImIi
▼irit«r. Lord Gny, procorM) for lli« eompoMr a nonunent in the diunh
of Eiwiwtadt, hy inquirinf; after it U-foro it existed, llo vw tlm toU
that mcfa a numnmeiit liad long heen ia contemplstion, and it lua enfaM*
qunitly beea enirted.

The eastle snd towu of luMiiHtadt, which I Tistt«d durimc mr stay at
Vkonat lie at tl» foot of tlw Lcitha mountaios, up thr fiicleti of viaek
•trftdiM tim jnrk, the largest and inoet bcautifel in Hungary. It thua
affords o|>portuuilie6 for tlie moM flxqutnte groufiitif^e of tree* and fiowen,
and its ^T<^t extent may he Im^ined from a aieani-cngiDB having becu
pot up for lb* purpoao of eooTajptng water to the AoweT'bodt and green-

DOaWN.

The valks leatlinp up tlie mornitaJne, the avcnitc of rocias ^^ chcanut-
sreniiea, &C,. irere, when I saw them, filled wilh promenaders. especially
with Bietty JovreaaM. I was, howerer, leM int^retted by the fair Iira^lilefl
than t>_v a Frandwan monk, Fathei titaaialaiu AUmdt, of nrhoeo pnuMS
my compouioDs were full. lie had been a pceachcr if Pe«tli, and had
there eitchanted his hearts by Ins eloqnenee, bat as hit) ncwn liail \»vn
thought too libenl, and he wouM not aubmit to retrart any thing, he was,
by onh-r »f bin riiiiwriur, laiiuJinl from Peeth, and now lives in a vcrv i«-
liiwd iniLuner iii tjiwiwtailt. I)<> tliere ooinijiin hiniH^lf almost excIuHii elv
with ]>lant*, thoM hamUaa efaiidnMi of nature, tho interi-oume with whin
ii best adapt«d to hrittg balm to « wounded spirit. He often wanden
aboat botanionr lot dava together in the lA-itlia nmuittnins, and among
the ntmhy regiont of Um >cuaedler Lalcv ; tlw rt*t of his time iti em-

filoyed in writmg down hi« rch|[n<»u coutoiuplatiooa and praycn, of which
10 luu already publislicd a rolume.

THE MORASS OF nAN«A.a AS1> THE GITLTAB.

^k» NMuMler Lalce t«, aa I have said, lurrounded on the aptilaii
nde by the low vineyards of Rust. On thit side, abo, tlie water ia de«pett|
as its haun Uonea a Little towardu the moniitains. On tlio eaat, it b
•faallower, aud tlwfa oeeur faDdbanks and ixInTKli of peat mon. wbieh, at
laa^ bsoonw united togttbsr, and » «ide nianhy diatrid coiBme<io«%
whcb MrebhM oa £ir as the ndi^bouihaod of tlie Danube, vbere tbo
land rises hi|!^r, and taaumns a limici' diaraetcr. It is mvliable. indeed,
that the river hoc fonntyl fur itscJf tho«e hi^rh hanW. The whole ntanhw
back lying between the Nouacdkir Lake and the arm of the Danuln-, whiot
mnnnids itw tdanda of Sehott, •■ caQed by the Uungariuts HatiMog^
a name tignilyini^ morasa, whi^ has been retained in the Geogranhies oa
a projier name ; but the (lennau of tho ncinity call it the " n'aien.^
He wbote iticlud«« a surf&ec of from viffht to nine Oemian square tiiilei^
and t% tliorefore, nearly as larf^e as the Nciuiedler Lake itself, but aflbrdfl
only a teanty (miturage for catUe.

180 TBS XOKUS OP HAKBAG AKD '

In some KKita che »oil of tliu IluiMff is rather timwr, in otiien th«
«lU«r bw «oltect«d in liltlo UkM or ponao, A« mo«t rem&rluiMc of which,
u the one called tlie Kin^s Lake. The greater part of the llaosag may
tw ngardn] af a floating cog; but, hem anil t\wn, trws are growings
and nenHy in tliv <v>iitr(! lluro it n wuixl of alilprg, whicli iloiu nnC float.
Orer tliu wliolo Auriaca of the mgraat lies a bed of nioes, ufuallv aboufe i
ilx, hiit M>inetiii]es as raiich. as from nine (o twelre feet Uiick ; and oeseatk )
thiit lie*, alnuMt cwecywheK, a stratoin of bog' earth, rmtitig on a firm bed
of clav, covered, like tK« bottom of the NiMuicdler Luke, with M«i)«l and
graTel. In the spring, wltcit tlic nholc Uansa^ ia overSown, this moM
ooveriug (fund somettmes also the stratum of turf) is loncieDed, and floats
upon the (UtAko of the water. If, in conscqucnr^c, pcrhapf, ^f a favonr-
nblc rt&tc <if tlw atmcMphen, the granth of tlio muss has brcn more tiiaa
usiiall^r vi^ntiu, it clings clonly to the lower toil, and a orerflowcd ; but
it sometimes happens that large traeta are suddenly loosened, and what the
day beforo wna a sheet of water, hecpnaes traiisfurmed opuareatly uito iry
land, in i.'MtLie<|iieni^e of the nioaf bed liavitig eiiiiTj^ during the night.
If thifl account bi< enrrcct, it U tikelv that thu whole TlanMi^ liait been
formorly n laico, and hiu tHMai changed into its present condition by thA
growth of the mow. It may Iidto fonned, with toe Xeu^icdler, ono great
lake travened by the Danube ; ajid in the iniunie of centuHcti, dtning which
the river lutd formed for iuelf high banlct, become reduced to its present
uzc by the growth of the moH.

The accounts pirspncd in Oedcnburg and Esterliaz, of villages swal-
lowed up by tlie lake, and the very inodeni data a»cribed lo it, do not
neceisarily cviitradict thiihypothcfij; forthis might have been occasioned
bv a sudden inunilation, anil the coonv sand of tlic Danube ipmul ovcc
toe whcde lower aurfare of t\w ILuisag, b a surer record than tlie^e.

ThpgreatMt proprietors of tho Han«ag are the Arclidukv Charles of
Alteikbur};, and l'rini;i! Ksterhfuy; the Utter aknie claims tlirce German
square laWvi. The following t.-ib1e may servo to ehow the ualure of tbe
property:

Overgrown mciwlow and standing water . . 19,3(iO yock
Clear meadow land. . , . . . . 11,700 „

Alder fareit . 8,190 .,

Tliefnl i»cidv tracts 5,"0(} „

Ara,blv liuiJ 2()!) „

About chret^-fiiurthii of the Ilaneag. tliereforii, including tlie rocdy parts,
are manhy, mciulDw gmuni); tint quite one-fifth fore*t, and 1-I60tli
arable land. This was the £tatc of it fifteen yuKn ngo ; but it is ]iouible
tliat it may, by this time, be Kiuiewhat imprnvcd, as tlie mere pasturage of
cnltle on it would do ioniethtng, anil thti uwiier« hare been making some
eflftrts to reclaim the wildcToess ; but ihcie would jmibably be more pro-
gre^ made, if tliv land were divided among many small jiroprietont. Littio
or nothing, however, has been done by the government comniisfion, esta-
blidied for the purpose, since the Emperor Joseph'» time. It lio^ Lccn
BunpMcd to be at work for fifty years, and it is impossible to find mtt what
it nas really done all that time.

ITie gi-eater part of what in obtained frfvm the moraiw, U got out of it
in the winter, and in very iry eutnmers ouly is it piMsibIc to do any thing
towanl* di^i.iiiiiit|; it by throwing up dike:! or cutting canals. The princes
£:iteriuuiy have exjieuded many tlioutaiid florins on these worlu, but the

TBE MORASS OF IIAN3A0 AND TUX QULTAS.

181

night nnk their whoU- rcvnnuca in Rudi a ttwaRi[i, ivtUintil pnuliinni; any
gmt vStd. Oac of their uimt pxptiisivc uadcrtakiags ii a (irnkt dike,
wbich tlie^r have conitructed as a nicKiiB of conunuDicaiiou helweea the
nortli and south nf th» Ilansa^. Thit dike haa about t^hctltv-lllrcel)ridj^c■,
imdcr which, in tli« fpHitj^, the wutn- Hon* iiito tlic liUfi-, out U somelimtt
happait that the stream runa in a coutniry liirxtioH.

From the castle of EstoHtux the rlew iniigfs o\-er a grout part of Haa
wUdetneu, where »o tmcc of human Knbitation ia diEcnvcrable. 1 viu,
honmr, as I have alrnulj snid, dv^irnun ni taking a riuaivr ticw of the
great manh, and net out, ihiTclnro, ror a ride aloiif; lliu dike, in llie in*
strudiTfl company of one of tlio EsKtIim^' prefects, hut vat soon Jndaced
to learc Uie carriage, and uroceW ou foot ov«r a itatL whi«h lieaved up and
down U'lieach our (vtt. It tj, ne>'ertbe1e»i, [lUMible to diivo in a curiae*
to jtonic iif tilt' linj^frUlit ami m-A ^rouuilK, at U-»h[, with the li^lit voliiclea
Biid »kilfid nianng^mcnt of the IluiignHnn jieusiit*. When wc atlomptvd
it, hoHerer, one of our heavj' horws fell Uiroueb and remained sticking
ivith all hii (nut feet in the ninrsh as fast as if he had been nailed there.
"We left our coaAhman tr> pull him out, with the airiatancc of nome hnrds-
men, and continued our way on foot. Tbcr« wax not the sli^litrst danger,
but it U A curious sensation to feel the ground everywhere tliakiiig under
one's foot, and to find it impoaiible to obtain a firm looting anyuberv. We
fvund woikmcD, rccd*cutt«rs, and mowetr, proridud with a ooutnvancv of
BtnuU boards (ast^iicd to their feet, to incrrasc thrir MpcnTJiy. whifc their
liead^ and faces were covered willi a kind of wig made of woven gmsH, to
defend tbem»elve> against the bit<« of the small marah gnats. They al«o
stuff a iiuaiitlty of grtutt into tlkeir hata to kwp their beads cool duiin;^ the
beats nf tiimnter. The wlicle int«ri()r of the HaDsag- now lay stretched
out before ua, a bflimdl«M dosort of roods, intersporf^ with marshy mea-
dow*, and skirted od th« digtaiic hoiizon by the aldtr fortct, which was ju*t
vmble. Tbo atraosphere was heavy and suttn', and countless myriads of
gnats coDlinued still more Ui darken the iirtu'ix^. Di^udcs th^te iuM>ets,
Biere ia anoUier, called by the Germans Mimcrln, which aro u drvtidful
nlaguc to both men and cattle, but which are occasionally vct^- useful as
keehes. Mv companion informed mc, that tlio caltle here are liable to a
peculiar maradv, 9«caji<tDcd by the sudden chaDgc from th« qtnre and
scanty diet of Ute winter to tb« abundance of juicy herbs with whtcli in tJti)
sprinfT thci innrth«s are covered, aud many of them die suddenly in oousft-
quenee. But after tbo month of June, wh*n tliese insects make their ap-
pearance, the rattle arc so plentifully bled, that tlie malady disappears, and
the ante^ of snddm de«th orcnr no more. Large henU of what are called
Vfibi cattltr iiv« in the H.ins.ig. They are called wild on account of thair
bcviBg tiotcr eiitered a stall. In wtntitr thv herdsmen drire thctn towaidi
tlielMndeta of the marsh, into tlieneigtibnoihood of Tillages and forests, and
ptace them in a rooftees enolosure, where tliev remiiin till spring. The
cows calve in February, and the youjig auiiuale pass stiddcnly from th«
matcmnl warmth to the lianlwt fnut, witlu>ut inffering any liarm. It is
■aid, howerer, tliat only the cattio lioru in the Ilansng con endure the bard*
elup to which thi'y arc cx|Hi«ed there. Cattle that live thus alnnyj in the
open air arc called " Gulyas" by the trHngariana. For a tame herd they
lisve another name. For the men who bnie tlie cliaige of oxen, sheep,
hcmM, pigs^ Sic, they hiive entirely diflerwttt words, and among all toe

IBS

TOE MOKjLSS of HAKflAG aim TIIE GCLTAfl.

soDth-CMkni European nations, nidk m Ui* UtLgyan, Tstan, aoi W«l-
aduim* with tli« execpdon of the ShraniHU^ m Gad tfab lich fuMaal
voobalarj. Thia «xeeptioa •ecim to ne lo tihiA a atiang |iToof UuU llw
Sbvoiuaas were nut M cBliretT • BoiDi(E« peo>pte u bw bMo uniall; fop-
poMd- Wliiki ill lliu^arjr, too words «nd jwwra imbtiiijf to BgricuUine
uv f lutljr Geniuui, pwlty fflafoniu, *nd pvlfy Sbgjnr, thoae canoctn-
in^ pMtAnl Kffiun uc ftbniwt cuIoiiTclj of Mftf;yar ori^. At w« ad-
VBOoed further, wc met n benl of four bttodrvd roua-^ nseii nnd wild cowB>
Ju wc spproaclied, they lUitoJ &waj and crvKdcd timtiUv together, wlnltf
ttmt lai^ whiU) iho^^ Am of superior n» came rushing towvds ml
W* dufcadnl ottrwivc* H wdl M we could, btit tite herdaaum bad gi ot
£Seiilty ID appeuiiig the tenon of thtlr cliargv. Tlw innineiit, howerer,

SpcrceiToa their keepen adrooee to aemst m, tbajr became more tian-
sad an wo coutinued to cooverte with (be Bken, db« eattlo lesumed
' fevtling, and endeatljr began to if^ard u m fiiends.

Tlw hi'iiwnea wiiro two Mogjan, in wide trouaert, tfaort jncketi, and
browl'brimaied hati, with Innf; blndt hair, dbtrplv cut fiuituros, and
spBrlUtiijr tyte. Hart of the Gemiaa nlUf;:**. od tlw Neuaiedlcr Laha^
employ thefe men la herdmen. We accompanied aooie of them to tbeir
dwellingn in the inanh. Tbeie were hutc of a coiu«al riiapc, biiilt of
reads, with the floon alao covtvcd with iccdit and itraw. In the luidsc
ver» mne planln nailed together, and covered with liaid beaten clay, whidi
•errnl for a boarth. Round thu weie laid straw beds, with pillowi made
of bloelu of wood Mrered with ^ecpiddm. The inhahituulj of thcae
hula eaonot aran tarn la tJiar linb nithont reding the ground sli&kc under
ihnn, jiA they iteeapy them all throngh the winter, and ha*« n perfectly
Jkedthy i4)pe<arai>c«. Their principal nourislimcrit consi^te of stn&ll ]Me«es
of hta, nnbed with oniona and pepper and roneted i but the pepper — a
Hnagarian aort callad " Pi^mka"—^ uaed in enonnoua quiuitities. I
Bwalbwed a pieeo oFtha meat, and it felt as if I bad »a,ten a burning enaL
To this piquant dish llwy diink the muddy nian<h mtUiT. Wbeii they
-wish to think tlicy lie down on thrar stoinaclu, and ilraw tJie wnttT i:p oy
means of u tw4. Une oftheia showed me esncttv liow th<t itporntion waa
perfoinnod. lie cut a reed, placed it iipHj^ht, ami then slrurk it about an
elt down into Uie ground. He then snrkcd up die water and stiit it out,
as the fint which (.■ame was tbicli, brown, and dirty. The moro he socked
the dcAnr it became, till, at lengtli, Bodinj^ it dnakable, he drew out the
reed, aad wrapped a piece of mf' round the lowtr end to serve as a hlter.
He then plunged it ogsun into the bole and called on me to drink, saying
it was delieitiiis. I found oue of these reeda stickiiig in the ground before
every bed, and 1 wn* told that in the morutuj^ when they get up, the tint
ifaing they do is to take a drink. On stooping to tAke a draught of thia
eool bcrerage I chanced to take hold rathiT earele^ of the reed, and they
begged me to mind what I was about, as I might easily trouble Ibc water
benoatfa.

In die whole extent of the Ilansng there aio very fnw peopb wlio can
lead— read boolcs I mean — bat they can all read, with great readiness, in
tba phyiiognoraics of Uicir companions tlic oson, and tlicy can also read in
the oeavciis ilic siguj <:if tlic coming weather. It is not uoiniblti that the
nomadic ancostors of tbi?S3 people can hs%'e led a simpler and rougher
life than tlteir deMwdanU do, and puhapt la ail Europe ont- could kudly

THE UORASS OP H.UJSAO JUn> THE GULTAg.

183

find within Uie aame i|Miee % inare strikHig coDtnut Uiaii that of theaa

rtural rofjioiii^ biuI of the luxurious cafttal, whiob, with « nulnml, might
mohad iu tvoboun.

Staay & Vunaa e&r&Uer, however, ooiugb to ahoot in tlie Hwiaag) with-
out taluug aay ttutico of it ; ukI I niii cotiviticcd llmt if s KWiw &um the
UuuAjf, wore cteverif rc[»rMctitcd at tbftlr tticatnt, the Vieoiui peo^
would toLo ii for ft eceno mid in eofoe Csr distant onuoti^ — perhaps ui ihe
juDff las oa the DdtA of Uta Ganges.

Hot* wild and boihaiout this legioa it. appcora aiilKcicutly from th«

atory of the celebrated wild boy fouud !ii the llaoMtig, nod known throurb-

oui tlM couDln- hy the uftme of IIkd latok (Manh StetAeo). Accordiue

to the story gtvea me, tliis bov wm a perfeetly brutaliaed creature, ana

ma Mosht by timv fisiicnuau witli a net, in tliv [■rioripot lake of tliv Hau-

, a»gt in Hie yen 1794. I saw liu portnut in CiLitU; tJtbcrfa&Zi and to jiulga

i fioin tha {rictore, be had si bald IwaA witli a few liairs beliiiid, brood fe»>

I tnrBa, naonblinp the lower aninial!i, a thick u&'der lip, low etomach. short

I lagtr WDU which liti jerked alwut lihi; « froj;, luid li>ng nngers a»d t*xtti.

lb aooM fartimlar* I fvlt inclined to dutniat tha mceancy of this portrait^

tbifiAMn aud tOL-^ \x\ng repreconted aa eonoeeted by a. meiDbraae Uka

^tfaa web ou the feet of waterfowl. His whole body wad covered with a

tfcard, (caK' kind of «kln, and wliciJ Grat taken, be wouldonly Ml graa*, hay.

; frogi^ and raw fiab, fnin which ha racked tho blood. ARer he hatl hvan

fccf>t for Boren months iu the cattle, he left off mckin^ raw Uooil, nnd bcf^aa

to endure dothinf: ; but tlicy were obli^d to keep him can-fiiUy from the

water, aa be made many attcn^ta to eaeape bv leaping into it. lie ro

[BatBed fonrtMn mootha in tho castle, and in t\\e Utter part of tho time it

wu fwund possihki to employ liim in the kitchvm to turn a apit. Tliey

could not, iiowerer, tunwed in teacJiing him to tpeak, luid tho [>iily .-tound

be ttUend was a kind of hisiing wliistJe- At the end of iho tima I have

BOctitioDcd, be eluded the rigiUutce of bis kuciHirii probahlY by springing

iota the castle-most, and tlirough that bock into the wiUefneos ot tho

raai. Frioco NicJiolas Estema^ took much paina to recover him, aod

a had tho moat and the ueighbouriog waters dragged, ooder th(< ide«

'diat he might have been drowuvd ; but " Manh stcplien" was seen no

more. Three yean aftetwwdi, it is said, aoma one caught a glirapae oC

him in the ilansag, and aa aoms old FranchnHA still doubt of the death

^ Napoleon, eo many of the betdamen heliara that Manh Stephen is otill

Knng aniong the watera. He has become. Indeed, for the people of

the newhlMnuhood a kind of mythic penonagc ; at least I saw a poem ia

' vrfaich he was spoken of oa » kind of manh km^ who at tames Cormeated

ktfae hrrdsntcn and fishermen, and aometimai beatomd gifts upon tfaeni<

At) official aeeouut of bim had been drawn up in Vienna, which agrwt
perfectly witlt that whidi 1 [lavv ffiwn. I 6ni uolliiug iitcrediUe in tha
•toi7, if we except tho particular of lus bving iu tlio take ; but u men
have heaii known to lire like sijinneU on the bou^is of tr ase, or like tigera
md boni in dana^ I coonder it by m means irapossiblo that a man might
ha c c i aa accnstomed to the mode of Ufe of tha b^Ter and so* otter. Manb
Btapben, Iionever, can only be considered tn have carried tlie wild man-
aanoftheiliMiivtahUle farther titan tha net of the inhabitants, of whoee
sorol condition be was but an exaggerated specimen, ffot ody are tha
niional people Iiere more uncultlratcd than anywhere elde, but there am
■uny wlx> never attain to roaeon at oil. In scvenU of the villages touv'

184 THE MORASS OF ttABSAG AXD THE GUI.TAS.

the marHli. thoiv ore oimtbrre of Crotins ; mid I wai iaformol hj m iojji
that in Uw tsland of Sctiutt, in the Dsiiube, there were >o nuuiy crip|iw
idiota, scrofulous |)«tieiits, and Cretiaa. that it wu tjuitc dUg^uabn^ to go
the». She uaiunl to me also some iwvi m the I^aiunf;. mlit wliom Gt«-
tinUiii vrm;* IK-Tvttitiirr ; and tu far u I i-oiilil judge duiiiig tho tJwrt time
I rvmiuiMd tJiorv, th«M Cratini have tho ssniu peouliaiitiea kb those of the
Aift—idnotey, large twoJIen bead*, deficieucy of apMvli, atunid ioMDiibi-
lit^, cunning, &e. It llap])cn^ iJho, aornclimi'^ hvru, m in th« A)p«, thab
tlio parents ant iM>rimnly lioaltliy and mtiotint, a»d all tlic chitdron afflicted
bj- Cw-tiiiiim. 'riii» nwUjtdy cxt«ndt over the whole itlaad of ^hutt, and
it may lie doukli-d whrtlicr it have not some coime&ioD with tl»e water
which ihey wiick ont of the raar»hv jfrouiid.

The sun had befrun to sinlt, and ithrn ytr c^tc nut on etir return
luHDei innumerable nooka of btitb ncrc returning to their ncstf amon^
the rccdfl froni tiio distant comlieliia nn tho lino land, where ther had been
Ceediiig. Wo found nith some diflif-ulcy the jilnce where we had left ma
equipage. Sererol of the herdvincii limtcticd to our assi>t(uiCB, oth(v« bad
drawn OUT honte out of the nitre, and pushed tho raningv upon tirraer
ground. I could not help tiuticiiig an an indication of the abjept elavery
of the pMiantry iu Hungary, that one of (he suttordiiiatc oflicjal* who ae-
conipouied tu, as Iin wiu fretting iuto the ra.rniigi.^ hit. an fild inan a blow
ou hi« bald head with a tliiek mud, with which ht* wu jilaving'- I intjuired
what Bort of maTi the peauat might be. " Oh, a capital follow," wn« tho
aoewer, " one of our beet herdsmen." " Why did 3-au strike him itien?"
" Oh, I don't know ! By way of taking ]enre." " {'ould you not have
shaken linnd^ with liim ?" " Oh, no, no ! not tliat either." Thi» f^rului-
louit insult to an ohligiii^, liidd-headed old man, gAve mo at much pain
sain hiul necn a man receive the piuii*)in)eiit of the kiiouL

Oiu> of ttie principal tMnploynieuu of tho dwi^liem in nnd near the I lan-
aag, and cf the herdsmen, in tht^T lelmrv hniir«, is drying tho r«cdi and
pl«liug them into coarse loats, which are used in Vienna for packing, and
ibrother purpoaea, In the Venetian territory, the Black Forest ana eloe*
where, tliu |>eaaant3 make the jineat and tn<Mt beautiful straw mats, and
if we ciinipare ibvtn nitli (iioiv ntadi- iti tliu Unntia^, wc slinli have a fiiir
sUuidard tor i-itiniatia^ tkp comjiaratiTC *kill of the ililTerput races.

On the eutem ilmreK (if the lake, in dry Kiiinrner<, soda issuios frora the
MOund, and tho (iermnn iuhabitanta call this soda " fsicA" iu imitation of
the Iluaffarian word «cA, and call iJio pWea where it i.i found ''tsUk
earth" The ground must ha»c been lolemljly dr\', and its iippi-r crust
subaequently softened by U|^ht ruin*, hef<irp the siwia can is*we m>m it in
sbuiiuaacc, and vovi.t it for miles, making it look om if then- had l>cen snow.
Tlic people then i-iillcct;it witli brooms and bi>il it. The hirgi'^t i|iiaiitiliea
are obtained betiveeu the IMnuhe and the Tlieins, but most of tlie little
lakes tu the Uan^a^ yi^ld soda wliuii llii-r dr)- up. In wet yeora it is found
only on their nmrginx. Since tho jxar 1797 tlie Vienna «oap-boilers have
fbnned a vompany fiir the csiahtishnient of soda nianufnetoriea on the
Keiuiedler Ijoke, and they understand citing tlie sodn better than tho
prince's mibjecls. He would iiave bl^eIl wilitiig to fumi out tho production
ol" the whole eastern shores hut coiiki not come to terms with the \'ienna
company, which ha^ now established it«elf near Neu»ied«-I, and must injure
the prince'd trade. New the village lliiiiek, on the lake, there is also found
a fine crystal Halt, whidi u [lartl}* sold mid pittly used for the cattle. Oa

THE XAABA1T Ain> RAAB.

188

our return vrc brou^t the ladies of our party some for^fct-nic-notB, plnclced
from th« i«mI huw of the herdamen in uie mjirsh, whiire this tender fiower
Uoswnna in great abundance, and u «ateo by tlie tatlJe. It wob inidiught
when 1 BKHUitcU my Iihtsc to nd« back to SSalModorT, sod lu it wu thn
nij^t betwMn Saturday and Siindsy, we found, according to Magj-ar a»*
torn, all thn villages full of lifo aiid movemmt, for on tliis ni^ht the youn^
men ■pAy visiu at the windows of tbftir respective dsmseb, and in many
cottares lighu were buniinp, and many happy pairs were atanding in uoi-
mated eonTenntiun faofnro uivni.

At the cattle of Zinlcendorf all mu diu-lc and still. I had not been px-
ptctnl back that night, and every one was eouo to bed. The dnora and
windou-<i, bowener, w«re uufaatened, and I found no difficult in (frojnng
mv way to my apartmi^iU. I waa aftcrwaitla told tliat no one ever uionght
mlodaog up the ntstlc. oJthoug'h it coiitiuacd coiisidcmblv Rum$ of money*
This is a fact which 1 found it hard to leconcilv with whiit I hsjl been told
of the j^erai state of insecnriij' in the country, mid of iho procnutions ic
wa» >ii-wwary to take. U may be tlint crimiii*]* ate too much daulcd by
tlie halo of )(Taiidoiir to vcntiiro to attack palacea.

On the foUowing morning, while my carriage was fretting ready, 1 vi«
titei the mulbem- plantations of Count SKeeheuv". a gentleman who has
eurcised a must liciieiicial Uifluence on tli« imltivatjon and iiidwitrv »r Iiis
naUvs country, by tlio bencHt of hi* own t>xnm]ile. In h!.4 mirrteneJi in^ar
Zifikradorf he poasMsei two hundred thoiuiafid mullterry-lrecjt, and hd hns
planted out upwatdn of twenty thomand into the opea field, which baro now
■ttaitiied the age of from eight to twelve yean. Shoold many of his coun-
trymen felkrar Ilia example, tlio growth of silk in Hungary may at no dis-
tant period bccomai-ery coniiid^^rahlc. Thi-ie ii ncarccly any Hungarian
town m which there ai-e not Uolicmianit actth^d, and rultivutin^ soma branch
of induntry : and in ZinVcndorf I found a BohemiBu coachniaker, who in-
fomicd me that he had already iavnrhi'd six himdred (K]iiipage9. He oUo
conducted mv into the Uleraiy iiutitution or readiug-room of the phicc, for
since tlic birth of Hungarian jouniidii«m, and lliv c-Jilaliliiihiiicnt of the
Casino at Pesth, and tlie Hungarian Literary Society, these insldtutions
bave fpnad over Hungary with extrBordinary rapidity, »o that as I liave
said, even tlu: little villugi* of itintiendorf can uoaat of one. I found ihiTe
the litllo Huiigarinn publications JV/ew^JW, llllag, flimok, «:c.. besides
the Allifemtine ZeitUftg, and several other German papers. Ijk« most
similar in.itiliitious in Uiis cniintry, the reading -rooiiu hod exbtcd about
Uiree year*.

THK BAABAO AKD RAAB.

The whole country between Oedenburff and Raah i* a' Sat oa if it had
Woo adjusted with a pair of .iicaloh II brma a |iart of the western Hun-
nrian plain, the lowext portion of whit^i is the Hansag and the Neiuiedler
Xake, and i« bounded on the nnrth-wAit by tlw !U>«alia mountains, tbn
Leitba monntains, and the Prcnburg brancti of the C'arnathian$ t on tb«
north-east by the Neutra niountmiii) and other snuri of ttic Carpathiaoi;
en the •outh-aast by thn Bacony forest, and on ttie muth-west by spitr* of
the Styiiaii Alps. A tigurc whose boun<lary lines werv drawn throv^t the
tcwus of Frcsbtirg, Pyrnau, Komoni, Raab, KOrmund, titms, and Ucden-

TEB BJaBJLtJ AST* KAAB.

faanr, wouU incloM chu pUin. compreheniUog' a nrlacc of limit tvro imif
dred(Gerinsn) tquara miliH. With the «xc«pit>oD of tlw Hwita^ thix vbote
district is ncrrrlindhr ferliU, uid tkis fertility reiM^Me its tiffliMt point in tlw
uLuid of Hrfiiitt. llie Ukuube flows tbreugli the middle <atiua |duit. dirid-
iug itselfiiito several braocbM after putior P^wdMrff. Bud nmtiiif; u^nin at
Konorn. This is gctMcsUy c«li^ iho LatUo ITongmriaa Plun, in conlroilH-
tiuction to Aa gmt pUia on llie eiut, whicli uuKltt be called the ploJo of
tba ThotM, nnc* tlut river dows thiougli it from begiomng to end. lu th»
ei«at plain tiio pcnp)^ hs« princi|>iilly Mwtipted with putimgc, bat nesr
fteabuiv ^ricnlturc if at least equnllj imporlaat. All tbs cattle nul cont
uUcndM for exportation Iraia lluogary is brought to the great stqde
fAtKvii, Wiecelbiu^ aad Uedeobinj^, and (ben«e passed over the (nmtier.

The dis4nct bvtwwn Wi«aelbu^ umI Pr^tburff i* called the " Haid-
boden." or Heath ; timt Iwtwccn the grxatt. and little Rash, the Raabau,
and betKem tlie lleuJi ant] Raabau lies tbe Hansajr.

It was on a tremendously hot day that I passed through the Raahau^
which is like one large iuzniiani meadow, iiiijted with eontfields. Uy coadip
man, a true Mag^, was toknUv wdl notoctad from the flerca arrotrs of
Apolio bjr the immeiin brim of his hat, hut J, tiudwtfaaiea»lvAMleof my
tnvelUug-ca|i) aufiered much. Everywhere 1 aotiead Uie uoptivii »{ Ac
feimivi; iiieasima againat the aun, aiia the other ploiEue of these iv^oii%
tl>e gnats. All the bunca wete afmed witti buihen of u-iUow or odier
Bhrubs, ai>d several slwpberdt with hones and ithu^p war* oA«n crowded
togMber under the shade of a ni^le trecv the liorsn being cooteut if they
could only thrust in their noMai Sometiraes I ootieea a tfSH g w lat
TonetT ot aiiinukls, pigs, goat*, g«oae, and oxen huddled together, tmA
eveu trom the middle of » hollow tree, popped out the head of a goat.

in all the doorways of the houses in this part of the country, wherever
it is pMttble, cuTtsiiu are used instead of doors, by which the doobtt' ad-
vantage is obt4uned uf a greater circulation of iiir, luid tlie exclusioa of Um
gpata. Even la the castle afZAiikendorf. ifane door'iintprne* were emiiloyed.
nhal are called fty-windows arii also in iim? in idl tlio cottages ; and the
MoatiUr and nustress of tho house often have the bed-otatriiuonial i>)aced
■a the open ur under Ute veraiula of the roof, where they are ahielded from
Aa niMa, by a Uuck net liangiug do¥ni, and enveloping Uiuin in its folds
like Uats aud Veniu.

The uoit cffvctunl method of defoacc a^nai this plsf^e of insect* bttf
been discovered by the bul!aloes, a ho wallow up to their iiecks in any dir^
pool ihey can rind. I got out of the carrinOTi to tnkc a nearer survey of
-these unclean auioiuU, and pcrveivvd, that tXinugh tlicy were cowrixl and
dripping Willi mud) tliey were still elicwing. Prom time to time they left
oS however, and putting down tliedr beads into tJie puddle, took up a
quantity of water, and threw it over the bock tif their neckti, whicli stood
ftUne the water. Itiea Lhcy began to chew again, but repeated front timo
to time the same maateuvre, so aa to keep themselves always wet. The
aagaj-ity of the ox does not appear to raaoh so far.

Xlw more oppressive the licat, the nioiv iimTi>kini; became the fahe ap-
jeaimces of watirr wliich presented lli4-ttiiielv(^ to tiin K\f. mi all sides, und
tbere was a heaviness and gloom in tlii^ atitioiphcn', nltBCMlgh scarcely any
clouds wtre pej-cvptiblc U was Sunday, and we met onany stnarL-luoking
peo^i the broad liats of the Magyars, like thoae of tne Croats near
Oeuaiilui;g, wan par&ct beds of flowers, natural and ortificialt mtitniuxsd

THE SAABATJ AVD BjUB. 187

wtU) banehes of Mttich luict {wwradui' fc«tb«ni It uraMn that iSas cu-
tom liu puMd fnim the Cmua to thm iiagjtm, for I nve dMnrhin* 6b-
«err«d it tinoog them. Sobm of them wore biuIiM of (me Undi ottridi
phimcs. Before the tinaf^ of jutita cut !n nUmc, wonira w«r lai«eliiie
on tiw nithercd |^n«i umlur tlic biiniiii^ biul They wotf at tfa« badu of
Ihetr beadle nich ■ profiuion of ribboiu, btvns, and lac*, that If ma^oifi-
eence depended on tba qiianti^ of oraanieiit, they wen cecUini; mag*
■nfteemly dteaed.

Tlw ttcpheHc whom 1 mw in tb« ti«Id«, rMMnblod in dnu nnd appesr-
BBc* tin cdcbnted iwiua-hrnls of Ducoiiy, and wore wlut« ttiontlnt rm-
Ifoidered with red flowers, their liair plaited utto I wo silft uiU that hung
down over their earn. In sonic of th? villaicM I noticed h^h tlMtm hcdgoi^
on tbo stunmit* of which, great niasw* of tlmrn* were piled up to keep out
tiie woln-s. llmG nrcunirnlhition? of thorns arrt nlso in me in Snutk
Ruisia, and form the can«ft and best defence a<^iift thoso animal*.

In this distiict bejjins the cultivation of the line Unog;arian tobacco, tlw
plaiiMtioiu of wliich my coadinian pointed oiit to me. What Biir>
ptiteil me watt, to »'« jKrtatoea growing aiDong the tobacco^ as well m
naong the msiie, and ludeMl then appeared to bo no grannd devoted ex-
dmirelr to iheir cultivation. Thirty yvnrs ago, {wtaUMiii were K-an.-cly
known in thu port of Hungary, and the {tvaple are tncbbted tn the
Gerniang for the introduction of w luwfol a mot. Tim Magyar nmunnta
would at fint haro nothing to do with it, or at Icwt only nwd it lor tbeir
pi^. but they hat-e clian^'d their oMtiimi since then.

Et^pf) n'tit^rc in pavings throuf^i tnis piain. I could see on looldnfr bade,
the diitnnt tnowy mountaiiM ^ the Styrian frontier, coiiimiui<linfr th*
countn- tike a distant tovcreigii. 1 f>7odualIy loit nght of tlitm, bowrrer,
A* well ■« of the Prince Esterliaay, whose name ii ditinguished aboTC oU
other names in this part of Hungaiy, as nmch as those snowy peaks abore
the Leitbu and other nMnintaine.

At Tthoma I toolc my dinner, and was exceedingly iudignint at being
atkwl by the monks, who I waa and what I wanted, when I requested per-
aunion to ece the library. If 1 had asked adnusdoa to a prince or a pre*
latOi it nii^iht hare been a diflerctit f^aae, but the mtiaei sraMild requin no
such ceremonial inlroducUon. I wu even Innglml at for wiifabg' to sm
the arehiree, and told tlint the archives contained importsiit state sMret^
and that I could not ace tbeui witltoat a wntten panuawm from tlie King
of Hui^rary.

The ehureh of the eenrent wtu filled with devout Msf^an ; the friiU
■ttiiw in front, tin married women next, ihcir beads coYtTTvd with wnste
I fcand h erd ii e fc , and the men forming the outer circle, extending crea into the
elotitered walks, where they knelt in silent derotion.

Grapea are found in vwr)' village and hamlet, and if the traveller thotUd
rmiplain witli rcasun. that tlic soup is too wntc-r}*, tlte nicnt loo lunl, and
the eocutnbera too sonr, he has only to stoek his coniaf^ wiili Vienna tmUs
on setting out, and witli these grapes he can indenuiily lunuelf for the bad
coolMt; along Uie roodt

I m not on the wliole way to Raabt met ray eanUgea, ar any people

who appaarad to bdenig to dw higher orders, fer dw route which I iol-

['lowed, was a by-road leading tlirougli the btenoref the country. WcIukI

COn^oally to nioka our way tlirougn large herds of cattle, or Socks of geese^

which are bars l»rgtr than uiywbera ehiu^ oa it la the practice for the geiH '

tss

THE QAABAU AKD BAAB.

htioaf^'mg to a vlu>l« rillagv. to be coolided to the nn of one dkmuu
SocBetifni>a we wwe slopped bjr a givat drove of pigs Minini^ from Turfcev,
wbciicc thiey had hcvu hnvghl v{> llie i>iiuube ia tlw rtcftniboat to Kaal},
«iul were ina.kiu^ tlivir wny to Oedenburg, mi« uf tlir grcatvat jii^iuarketa
in the world. Tti« plan goooniiy adofilMl hy tlio drivpra, is (or oiia maa
to go before tbokiiuF a bae of cucuraben, tb* odour of wliich it renrded bv
the piga u e*pecialiv enticiDg, while another of their guonlians ttJOoin wiln
a largv whi{>, aiifl (riiii lietweea coaxiii^r xuA !J)rHiteiiin)r, th» pigs adtoim'
OO their way to lh« mnrlfot* and Hut »Jn.u^ht4>nnf;-housM of OMonburg.

Towards erenin;; I aaw tlio hcnls returning home to th« Tillages i tbc^
oonnated moidly of two-ihirdi oscn aiid oiic-tbliil bufTaloes, and alwayi
appearad to oteerre n rejfular order of march.

Thp oxen cotDc- first ici loow order, and the bufialvca, who never laioglcd
with them, followed in closo ranks behind. About half-way between
Raab aud Tshaniit, we paused the Urge village of Encsh, whose iuluUt-
40(3 are exdimvoly Hungarian nobW ; and whitit, nt crery other [ilaoo,
W«Iiiu] bfcn tavilly if ol ut«'d, uo oiiu here took the slightest notieo uf tu. It
u raid tltiit, B4 wey unite eiiornionM privik'gi'ii nitli ettontioiu intolenoa
and (.'ounnL'ncft: of niaiini.-nL, it i« vor^' neoeeoory lo be on one'a guard in all
iiiterc-'imc with thi;ni. j\ti wc drove on, a young lady of high liirtli and
ancient fiimily was [ixinted out to me, engH^et) in cU^a^iiing- out Ikt fatber'a
Htahlev; till! Bnron of K. ptuiu'd u« driviti^ bin toatn of oten ; ftiid th»
IJfln>ti<-«i Z. WM sitting before hor door, pnlcbiog Ii«t husband's lc)Vth«r
breeches. I dnive reapecifully aud quietly by tlicie iiei'aoiuiges, which it
was <io much the esiitrr to do, as tlte road lay over a iliinghill.

The Jtiltrj' day brought forth, townrd* cviMiiiig, r tnngnificcat ttomt,
and Uic iaccMont ligHtuiugs ilnttcd about like restless ihoughts in the
mind of mau. lifting.up various objects till, at length, the towers of Raab
speared in ughl. As we approoclicd Kaab, the ittonn aha cianc neurer:
xay Huugarion coochinuii urged liis horses, according to caaloni, into ■
gallop, nud wosuoii fitund mmeln'!!) in tlie middle of llaab, andin themidsti
also, i( wind, and niin, uud thunder, and lightning, which made ua all the
better pleased to iittd thcltiT in l1ie " Palatine" Inn.

Here, in the large hall, we found a grand dunce going on, in wluch,
after I had a little recovered tvam my fiitignw, 1 liwirtilv joined. The
oompany, which was juinpitig ahmit in Mich high glee, belonged mostly to
the lower order of tradesijicn and niechaiijcs, ro[ieniakora, grtn'^era, biitcberSi
4c., and Uungurinn nnd German weie Ajuiki-ii |)n«ui,tcmHiiily. Mo«b of
them were dreeu'd in the (lerman fathion ; hut n c^^n^idcrablc nnmborwore
parading in tliv HuDg^rian nationitl costume, which, for people in thif
situation of life, iniMt be very expensive. It con«i«t>i in the first place, of
rery tight jMnit»lnon« down to the nukic, with nhurt JiaU'-lwot«, and mofiuve
ellror spurs. Over the waistcoat, hangs loosely on tho shoulders u " JJol-
taan." trimmed, as well as the waiilcoat, witit tliick rows of massive sdver
buttouj. and faalened by a tiilvvr chain that falU down over the brcnct.
On tile heiui \* placed, mtlicr on «n^ side, a high llungariaa cap or Kat-

f)<iA, and the hair hangs in kiuoQ curb mi the checks. They went mostly
laudsonie young fellows who wire this showy dress, but not always native
Hmigarion*, for it Goinctiines ha]i]H-n< that Gormau mechanic, on thrir
trawls, will tuke a fancy to display their penons to ndvuntagi^ in all tho
finery of Dolninn and Kalpak, mid silver .opnra, although ftucli & costume
cannot co«t less than 200 tlorins. The dauccs wore oftou Cieraiau, espe-

TUB ItAABAU AND JtAAB. 189

cialljr the waltz; bnt after psrli woltx there wiu a ctv of "Afaifyar/
Atuf/yar .'" u a signal tint Uio Maui^-ar il&i>ce was required. SoimrtimM
thry nouM nob even wail for the (!i-nnati dance to be llnitliecl, liut com-
pelli'tj th« niii^icJnns U> makn n miikltiii i;Unnj>(t nf tune by cl)i> vcbement
try of " Magyar I MnByM!" (pronoun«nl Ma^ar). The whole mass of
the company iheo fell into pairs, the p^otlcmon placed themselves opposiu
eot^ to a bitly, whirled her round or dsiiced roimd her, the eyes spiirkt«d,
tbo Untroiint fl«w a)>nut, and the chains and apura (blattered nn aM^inpani-
ment to the full but rattier melancholy tonm of the HungBiian music. Hie
Borae wu not uniut^mtln^, and I contemphtcd it a orauMlerable time
before I retired to niv room, in the rather deceitful hope of a ui^ht's rut.

The city of Raab lies at the confluviici' of the river Uaab and tliu Littla
Danube, and is of very reinot«' aiitiqiuty; it \i only in modem dmet,
howfrvOT, that it lias acqnirwl iu prvwiit eilenl. In Uio year 1785, it bed
only 4535 inhjUnlants, and at present it cnntaina probably 20,000. There
are in Hungary many inatances of an equally rapid increase of populution.
Tlif tnvn is hy n» meaim poor in hiitoricnl recoDcctioiui, and indeod, aA«r
Pc^th, is nnc of tho mort intercjrtin^ 1 hnv« Men in this country. During
the wars between the Turks and AustrLuE, it was alwaya rcganled as one
of t!ie hulwarlu of Christendom; but in the year 1595, it was tilten by
the Turk*, and formed, for a short time, the estreiiie limit of thnr dnmi>
nionf on the Danube, Wing govx-mcd by a pa«ba. Since 1609, when
the French were here, the fartiti en lions bare been for the mn^t part de*
Btioyed. Tlie Frwich halls are still U> Ix' «wii in tlie walls of i-lio Evan*
ffelical chui-di and othpr tnildinjjs. Thf>m is nlw) pw^rvod in the Ca-
tnedral Cliurch tlic iron ^iv and the petard with whicK it wa^ blonu In,
when, in th« year 1.50S, the Austrian jrenerali Palffy and Schf .uzeuber^^
recovered the eity from the Turks. TRo joy nt thl* n?eoni|ue»i mutt hava
been very great, for to tliii day its luuiivcnniy \» celebrated as the givtbift
festival of tie year.

Tile Cathedral is sud to have been tlie work of St. Stephen, and a lirce
picture hy on Austrian artist, represents him as presenting hia son to tlM
.\linighty. The Turks filled tlic ciithvilnil with cartli, and made um of
tlie high roof aa a mound on which to plare their caiiDun, so as to com*
nand theeonntiy fbrmilce round. The story goes, that the Turkish gene-
ral, .Mclienicd Itaua, one day aaid scornfully, that the Chriatiaiis nbuiiid
have the town again whenever tlic irttti voclc on the top of tliv Ciintieltte
cnnvent should l^rgin to rrow ; nnd that tlie day befiitv the roivivery of
the town, the wind having suddenly changed, whirled the Mek round, and
made it utter a slirill sound, resembling a crow.

Among the thinga whieh struck ino as remaikable in the town, were the
C'tria, as tliey are called, of tJic nobility, that is, their tonn houM«,
vlncfa an privileged in tbo suae maaimr ■• their eatatca iu the coujitry.
Aoooodiog to the ancient laws of tbe place, a oobleniaa ought to be 6ubJ>ect
to the eity police, and within the walls regarded aa on on «tuaJity with
every otber dtiMn. 3f&ny nobles and magnates have isauag«a to procure
exreptioDa in their own favour, and have settled in tbe town, and bought
land in it, without submiuing to its regulations. " CWta nofttYtirur" is
usually ioacribed, or out in stone over the entrance to theee mansions, and
fritliiu their prcciiicta they enjoy, beiidce otliers, tlie enviable privile^;ea of
brewing beer, and dtstilling and sftlling bnndy. Tbcy cannot be airaited
by the city police, who da» not so mwA ae enter tlieac Curve, which nu^

THE BAABAt? AKt> XJLAB.

thof sffonl •heltar not ouly to thuir ownor*, but eno to uijf cnnuaalt
Aey oujr cbooM lo hariwur. Tlie bouw oC enrj dagjmaa, kIm it, ■«-
corang to ibe ennmoit ber« uwd, Curia.

Aitkough Rul> ii by no UMUia cxclunvoly m Magyar town, being in a
mat oieaMiK iuhaliitcd by GvimAas. iU citiiciu uv KDOwntd is Uaagaiy
iar cbcir patiiotic teal, wuich dunr are rvcu Hud to cany to fanatotan.
Oni- ctiriuuitaaee, apparcstly triflii^, may bav« coiitributHl to tliis,^
iiAtn«Iy. that it ritittan the be«t B*tian&l nitiuoiand in Himf^taj. The
gifsy iinnds of itiinb are &c<qiientiy iaritcd to play in other placv^ and are
always mudi adiuii^d.

If Usab wmt tarmerly oonaidi>red u the Last buliraric of Chriat^itdon,
it may uuw bv rvganW u tlii; ultimate refuge of Mftf^aium. It wae tl>e
fint town iu wliich I vraji nblc lo iirocura a complsM coUoct!ou of all tbfl
Jotmuilji and neriodintis puUished m tfae Hraigaiun Jangnage ; aitd tlii* I
£nuid iti the Literary Inatitutioat ealabUBhed oa the model of tb« Cs«ino
of Pcadi. The cAieei Qun^^an [lajuT does not date back beyond tan
y«arF. Befof* tliu liiiw, tlicm men- uiily ii lew, iKually i)rint«d in Latki,
whtt-h )iAv« nnco <li«d itwny. The moat dittiDgiitRKM nl tlip joumoLi at
pr«9f lit in vogue, llic iisine of wliidi meeta one at t'vcry tuni, is tho '' Pali
J/irttifi," or l^eslli •Toumal. which liaa exiitcd only n. year and a half, but
hu olrt^ftdy flutiitrippMl all iti rorapetitoni. It IcM-pt a vijrilant w&t«h over
all faults and abuses of tlic ^\-rmnivnt, ajtd i&th« most librral paper pub-
^hed in Huugary. Its editoT, the darlin)^ of hia counirymPB. is the celc
biiU(<d HiiiiguriAn noble, ndroeiUe, and deputy, " Koszuth." Tho other
^pcre azv, the ilirimk (llit- Mctiviif^), the Vitag (tlie WoHd], th«
£rdciift Hirada (the TraiuylvatuBD Uerald), the Yrirnhor (th<:^ Preseot
Time), the MtUtea IWen [Present aiul Past), the AfAena^tmt, tho /Jtfttlo
(the itoiaontic Tale-t4.-llcr) the 'fuilvmanytar, and some oclier*. A* I
ahail iubscquctitJy Itaw orcatao:i to rafer lo tJicM\ I rautt beg' tny readere*
if pouibl«, to k«ep in mind :tt sll trventfi, the names of die Btrlap, tha
iMrnAor, tlie Hermoi, and the Ilioff.

1bi» moat magnifioeat reaidence iii Raab a that of the catholic btaho^
whose palace wns jntrdiBaed hy one at his prcdeccHon, froiu the EmpreM
M«tia Thvn>tin. The pmant biihop n said to bi> n very itstimaUe uti
etUtiviitod mail. The IlHUfjarian c«tli<Ji(i clerpfy is nlnio«t tlw only OTio
ID Buriipe that still mjoys untouched and undiniinished its fonncr pri-
vileges and revenues, but a t^tne is, probably, not far off when these ^Ideo
days will be overcait, for there are evident symptonts rtf discontent at
di« Uulc udruntagc to humanity or icieiice dcTiTcd from the largo inoomef
enjoyed by so iiiariy rery reverend but rery useless gentlemen.

Far less of lu£ury aud superHuity is to be seen in the abodes of the
chief ptutor of tlie ei'ttagetito! or ut the Lutlieran roiipiTrgati'JU than in
the spli-iidid «uil* of dining-ttioiin, rerop lion -rooms, libraries, and billiard*
rtiont« showed to tia as tlie palaoo of tlio Inghop. So late as the reii^ of
Maria Tberasa, the Lutbmwu wer» forbidUeu th<.' public t-jiuictsv of tlieir
idigion, and thoorii JoM^'a bolemtion edict removed this pmhiliiTioQ,
dwy romuned hoUi poor and opjn-eased. The exact dimensioiLS wn- prw-
•enbcd to dieni for the ohtiivh thev wore nllnwed to build, and it it, eon-
•equeotly, very email aiid low, ana bus nether bell nor eterpte. Theae
ang^ now he added but that the means are wanting. The allnr waa
^■eed imniediatelv under the puipit. and I was told that thit woa cus-
tomary in oil tlic Luthciaa chunrhca in Uuagwy.

TUE ABBEY OF HABTINSBEBO. 191

Of Ihc Lutberno wltool, oi it was, iminckilv, u holtdav, I crniU not see

nudi, Um I «an- Iimv, For tlic Knt time. 4 conipktu lutif <Mc«llent man of

ifiic kiiij^oDi of iiuii);&r_r, umI tliorc arc lunr plenty nf thrni to be bnafur

jsU putfM>i>.>&. The most vtrikinj; feature at a map of lliuifrciry ti th«

white spKc, de5titut« of names, dint appears on llU locrar ttf^cm of the

Tiicis> and J>«iubr. Tin- Mungarinui'gT-m'ralliriioiutto it tlvonuclvfia, and

, Bay—" Ijovk .' tht« trbite blank ire cme tit tlie Turtcs. who made a desat of

^thwu' miuitri«s, and whoM faariiarism has ntaarded tis for craturica on tlw

of dvilimtiou."

oue oeeaf ion tlwre nai aliown to me a letter nf a pwha from tin

I of the INnUrii doouniun in Raab, in which he addrasses the oitueu

^ «f a ncofrhbaurinir Iowa a< " IIo^ and Do|^" inqturinf why they ate ao

Ijeag to nuiBoming tfaetr gii4s whom he has taken in ple^e, and tniHoteo-

' to take tbeir oeadi off if tbey do not agree to bis propa«a1<. Simibr

of the Turldah modo of gonsraineiit arc found ewj-wbt^e in llua-

Igary in tlie arcliivn of ibo cities, cburclH^, and countica, ai»l complaiula

, «rw &vquent of the outrafrw tlio couiitiy suffered from them. Almost every

eouftlry in Emvtpe has tome foreign bcifaBRau com^neroF on whom h lays

tli« litiiaM; of bariap rvbtrdcd its progm*. Aa thv Turk* m Hunt;ary, m

■re ihc Montis regsnletl in Ituaga, the Riiniana in Poland, Jie Aintrittu

I fai Bohviiiia, the Cremiaas in Italy, and th« French in Gtnasay.

At our dinner at tli« inn, an sitide irom a Uungarian paper on the mb-
jeet of mixed marriages waa read and oommetited on, and ttien fellnwnd aane
iiedtatiau bv tno hilli^ prU nt nx atul ten yean oM, of German mwm*.
[towliDff of tlie " pMMitmin^ tire of love." 1 then nrHerMl mj caloach, and
I in Uw conmanv of a courtcouf and learned Uuns^nnn fncn<^ drore to Um
[ablMy of Martinaberg, situated tno German niilM bom Raab.

THX AUBEV OF HAKTtNSDERG.

Una Tenowaed BenodictiQe ablwy li« on a (pur of th« Bneony foTMt,
which rtretcfaea into tlie plain of llaab. Many a diifrrence has been tbui;ht
oat on this jilain, and neither Nnpoleoin nor Cbarlemaicne ponetrated
filitfaer into Hnii)>arv. After the battle in the plain the French nere
ooiniK-Ued to uadcrmlic a siege of tho boicn oitd lortn-M, which lusted Drrr*
bI OMyt, duiing wliich they tired tno thuusand tix hundred and aiity balla
wainat the derated city. After their conquest tbey l>lew up the fortifica-
ttoiu, which bare not MtD aiocv restored. Their fra^mta and ruina lie
arunud H)nie three or torn huodnd honwa Khidi have sitruiig itp >ni their
Mte. Tinii did the Freneh render the same Burvice to Um as bo so many
Gtrtnaa towns.

Uy ettoomed caDponian was one of those Hungarian Utersti who pre-
&r vpealmi^ Latin to any other lanenage. He usuolW becan l^ speukiiKf
GefTnan, but soon fell impeteeptibl^' into Latin, findmc it M ne «atd m
■neb man coat'oaient anu better adaiited to oonversatioo than any othtf

"^ tangiH. He aaid tlmt he knew inauy liLeraiy laeo to whom Latin waa by
fu tho most familiar, alUi<Kigh on the wbolo it had fidlen mte dintse of
late, lie liiiiueU^ as a Huiigurian patriot, nrefvrred as a matter <A' prin-
eiple, tlw use of the native laiigusgp, but nnon lie wished to pour out hii

I jHort bo eonld not lulp onin^ I.atin. tMtme, he said, carried their pene-
onfint of it to a [ateh of bnatiann. " «t dlia nunc pndor e«t lotjui Latnw, et

THE ABBET OF M4B7IVSBER6.

vclunt ut emaea nocturni vigUaatei llimj^uic mnant," Witli the liuntfto
guarduiitD <»f the nij^lit, in tome Huii^;aruin lomnti when; thvyltavt bcrn ia
the liabii of riyin;;; thp hour in Grrman, this bu rvoll}' bcca miuircd. 1
ifiquircd w)iei!ier, as i liad heard, tlH> Uuttgariai) IrUm tpoke Lado, but
bo mmI he newr nut but one who was oapsble of doinj; so, tuid tfaat nw A
ladyfrotn iPrvoliuix. Tltc lliin^'ikriiui iiin^intti all vpi-aLit, tnit the SloTDcks
an coufidvnxl b^twr and moir lliiviit I^tinttU llian tlir Magyars.

As the abbey lied v«rv hij^li wv tiiwa came in dght of it, and I was
Tcallv tLHtoni^Mi at Hie sue and beauty of this niagniHcent biulditi"-.

"\oii iiiiroreri*," l»ogHn my friend. " You wDuld not mwdrr at tbs
Bplendour of the building-, if yoti km-w what revunuw tbew gontlemaa
ptMitew, and how thoy lira. Tbcir abbey i« one of tbo riobat ia ail Hun-
gary, and the poorest of them drive out with four horses. Omnium rvnon
ftbiitidantix fruuntur, exempli gratia \iai boni, equoniro optimnnim vt totiua
Titdc npparntu* diltwiini. The mouclmn on vrhich the abbey itaada, u
you fcc, ri«c3 proudly ftxnn the pUiin, and has probably been since a very
early period, dedicated to tlie service of religion. It wsut called by tliB
Aoniani, and still potwits the iiame of, tbe Saocr Mom Pannonia^ and
Vtaodi ia the ramv rvliilivc piutliuu to Panuouia ma Mount Atlios did to
Maccdon. Tht- firrt Chri.itiau Kiiit^ nf Hungry, St. Stephen, and tlie tiret
uio<tie of ChriatianitT iu our i^iouiitry, St. Aiia^tatius, eatal>liihed liere tbe
fint Cluiatiau cliurcu, and founded tli« al>l>ey tuid the caiUu. Snnctos
Anantatiua prinim fuit Abba* Sii. Miirtiu!. rt niinmi ct iiiexpliicabilc vet
quantum uain in propn^tioii? fdei nrtli'Mlox:i> demilaTeriL" Stephen sent
him as anibae!»dor to I*0[>o Sylvestor ]I., who roliinied to him Uw crown.
•lid tccptrc of tliG ITtingnrian kingdom, which the king tiad ord«nMl to bo
liud at nis IioIui^m'm ffwl. The po|ie nfteru-nrd-t raiwcl the abbey to the
digpity of a high or anib ablwy. tho only one of that rank in the Aiutriaa
empire. The abbot is ''cx oflicio" a Maguate of Ilimgary, and he is
chosen by the Benediclioea fi'oiii among tliemselvet without the aanctioa or
interiereneo of pope or emperor. Joseph tlii^ Sticond IndMid dippiid the
vring^ flf these occlwattic* a little, but Fraocis II. restored, souig gf their
lost featlien. Since his lime they liuve birgiui to make great alterations
Rnd improremencs in thoir coiirnit, nnd ulthuu^li it is not yet mora tlian
luilf eomploted, thishnlf h(Malrpn.dya most tna^ificent efiert. In th(v front
of tbo buiJdiug in a group of ^atuci, atiiuiig which thoec of Stopliea and
Francii^ tbe founder and the restorer of tlie coinx-iit, are the most ^tin-
guished.

Wo IcB our carriage; at the foot of St. Martin's mountain, and rlimbod
up on foot. Ab we entered tliit courLyard, wt nore saluted by the busy
hammering of half a dojten voogieKt, who were employed in fastening larse
oaken «ask« of mo^t capacious dimcnetonj, destined to be Blli-d with tn«
finest Hungarian wines. In the walls near tlk^ gate I rcntarked tli<' looji-
holes, which in former days had been used by the EibbotM in defenee of their
olftbey nnd their native eountry. The ehitrch of the abbey is adonied by
tlie works of Maidbcrtseh. Many uf tho Aiuiriait fhurchi,-;* atxi fidl of the
productions of his pencil; bnt trie best are tho*e in Papa, ft kiwn over
whieh Prince Esterhaiy exercises sovereign «wny- It is said the prince was
lately n-proavhed by ati EugliiluuBu in London, for not doing something
for their prvsi- nation, Li n cliit[irl belonging to thin churcn, a niiirbW
seat iu a niclie «-es ehown to us, oi that on which King Stephen wad a«-
customed CO sit, when he attended th« service performed hy St. Auaftatiua.

TQB ABDET OF MABTINSDERG.

193

Tlu« marLIe niche mid ami are reKsnlcil by the (lun^amiu as their
moat intermthtg antiqidtiM. " Sw 1" uid an* of th* mooki, wIk) occnin.
panted ua, " tliew our sftiiiinl king used to dt in perauii." llie HiingftTtut
ptTKMtita coinv iu gK»t uuiubera ou Um tt'ativiU days, uhI bcff for pormb-
aioii tn stl awhile in Kiii^ f^pheiiS c^»ur, m limy conndcr il Tciy service-
able Tor many point in th« biu-k. 1 trwk my scat there I'or a, niomciit,
but live very cold of the maibl« H>«inpd to mo more likely to givv a poin ia
tlie liack tliui to take oue away. T)io cha|M!] u biult with nx crlumns
mijiporting the root, which resu on them, uid on twive poinu>d amdiw
springing out of thnn. The St. Martin'* hiti is conne«'t«d with llii.' iuotn>-
, tola nnSGi to Trhicli it bcloD^;^, by a Iaii|; rid^e, along nhicli max a foob*
Mth leading to the lonely little chapel o( St. Fmnierich, the frm of Kin^
'Otcpbcn. Thia Enuncrich km married, l»ut during or intm(><iiatfllv after
tbt pcHbrmoncQ of tbv ccrciaony, tiiadc a row of pcrp«tual chastity. He
naa accuatomed every evening to pass oloti^ thia path to the chaj)v1, in
order lo offer lus prayers to the Blessed N'irgin ; ami il liapprnnd that hia
ivifit noon began to harbour some suspicion concvniin^ tlicsc nightJy woa-
'd«rin;;s, and dctcnnined one CYcnin;* to follow liioi and discover the catue.
She did 50, and peeped thraugh (he window of tlie chapel, aiid there she
saw, by the light of the tapers on the nJtor, the bandtosne and devout Kin>
mcrich Illustrate in prayer, with Lin hi-od »tirroundcd by a saintly glory.
• Struck by the sight, she also sank on her kii«r4 to pray at tha door of tJlie
-chapel, and embnciug her husband as he came out, made a iiitnLlar vow of
'permtual diastitr.

ills library d thia comeitt is aa magitifiveiit in it* arrangeinvnta »a ehoH
of the conv«utii oa the Dauuho, vrhinh I hare bebre doscrlbiHl. It is not
possible to orrango books and mnnuscnpts in finer or more bicturewiue ord«r,
and 1 did not venture to take one down fur fear of disturiiinj^ the honnuiiy
of their poaitioD. In the great lioU of the libraiy wera tinely-eu.-cutra
atatuca et Stephen and Francis 11. Jo«cph built his monument ia tha
beaiti of nulBoos of bis aubjcctf, but if he hod had a successor to hiivo fol-
lowed in his footsteps, his statue also, in bronze and niorblv, would evorvK
'Where meet oar eyes. The eollcetion of hooks amounts to eighty thousand,
among which are tuidoubtcdly many of f^at value.

In the museum wKich is connected with tlie library are prcfcned many
.Turkish and Roman antiquities found in the nt'ighbourhood. In the
Turkish time the convent had to pay tribute to the paxha of Stuhinrisscii-
burg, and the cOTrrspondrace between tht-in wm cnrticd on in Lniiii.

Tlte Turks had in fiudu and Pesth olao many Gvniiaii xubjects who nviv
made to serve as interpreters for them in their adiuinistrution of tliera
pattholies.

In the (tolled ion of coins there are some nud te be of the tinM of AttiJa.
Tlwv bear the portmJt of a man whom fi.>atures are those of a Faim, and
the inscription " Atttla 451." In otiier Hungarian towns I havo seen
DKtre of tltMe cniiii, but am by no int^aiis couviiictid of their aulheuticity.
Soaie were inscribed " iiitda Ihtjt Huanumm." It in remarkable mough
tbM tiie VMtMiey 6i Attibt ha* bceii a-gaidcd witli so tuuth rof p«ct by the
people of Hungary. There are here to be met urith more Tipre^cntatims
of .^ttiln, tile " .Scourge of (iod," thou in Germany of Kari den Grosmt
or ArauniiM.

In tho front of the courent is a high tower of considerable compous, from

THE kVTtET OF 1IASTI N SBERO .

tlie top of wtuob B tnJy «pj«nditl pro«poct maj bo fin}Ci)red. Th« auoat]
hy m oanrenient gaJleiy on tb« tnitriiie, aoA the wye csn tlieuce cml
tne whofa Bortlivrn haif of PanDonia, no fewer tltui foKrtsro of tim 6Ay
t*m oauatiM cf Hnnjpuy beiiifi^ conaprUf^) within the tipw. Coold we, m
our eyet rested ou this mdc eurfiurc, have known nil thul wat paniiig
iMMtli thetn^could we lave followed all the spirttual mowoenti of tllB
millions of b<^in(^ whoso dwclknj^ lay in ihoie ff^, bkm, gnea, ainl yellow
pAtchea, we iliould luiru eeeii i»iuc vuougb for botli jojr and aonow. How
£ttle can the indindua] embraee in bu KympatliiM ; ncsroetjr his ueamtl
friondi I and what haa ha to do with the jo\-s and (ORtms of milUoua iu &
fbntiffn laud?

Some of tlte Mclenutioa anon j(»n«d mt oa the tower, and with them my
friead from Raa]t> ao tliat I hul iiib.>rpnrtnni eanugh of Uw various object*
tint iitruck ni#. Many mut^? were point^v) out to tut iw tb« )uir«dtaiqr.j
acAts of tliid or that family. Near the mod leading tram Ka^ to Slld%J
Balled hars the Biitcben' road, probably on account of the gnat herd* cf'
eattl» driven alon^ it to market, lie the aneioRt eutle and oonwmt of Dotii^
in which >latthiaa CoTvinus pasecd ao moob oF hi» Urns. Wc could pa~ ■
oeive nljo quiie diatiuctlv iu tiie luoontsm penpectiro, tlie mitiance to tha
olabratod pntto of lAitia, and wc taw tlirou)^ the loit^ mta at past vaaiv j
ft horde of wild Turks, at the oatraooc of this grotto, driviit); in the lali*-
bibinta of tevtai Hiin^ariau riUngvs, and sufTK'ntin^ thrm tiwve with tiro
snd finoko. Jio len than twentv wo^on loo/da of human bones were lub-
■vqueutly t&kon out of it. In tne tenitorici ruled hy the Turks there ««
many aucb caves. £Ucd with human bodies by the tide of barhnnstn, as in.
vorioiwimrU of the world other ca»e« bare Leon tilled by natural flotids with
the r«ni.iin« i>f animaU.

Not far off in the same range of niotiataini, wc cnuld with our glnwo
diitin^uifih the itooe qoaniet of Olmosch. whence the Tnat«rialR have bc«a
tnk<?n for the torttfieatiooa oi Komorn. The ent-irons of the townn of Pgf^ ,
G'uiis. aud Sl«inaniaiig«r, which wu tuid Lvfurc nwa oitly marked with bhulc ;
slrakeK upon the map, lay now iu vivid ctiliiun Iwrnrv us. Tn tliK itoutb tar '
ttio iwi^hbuuriii^ Bacnny niouutAins^ eovunxl fratu tlioir vallBys to tfaoir
mmmit* with »in iiiiinterrupt^d formt of oak.

The convents of the BaiiedictiiiQ order arc Tery numerniia in HungafTi
snd Uke tliia Abbey of WKIaaUns, uiually built on tlie suuiiult nf a bilL
They ore, however, nowhore more powerful tlian here, whore thpir poMoa-
eions cutvred on one side int» the Bacony oa far as ^lo Plattani hake, and
on the other to the Danube and the Dotis niouutains ; three abbeys of
inferior tank, also in this part of the tnuntry bclonjf to them. On St.
Martin') hilE, ibinv rvxidc ftftytwo of these reverend ctclesiastics, but in nil
then; ore oue hundmd and nincty-iix monks who belong to tho convent,
whitb boa the onntrul of two academies, tho«o oF Prvabar^ and Raab;
eitrlit Uymniuia, those of Kaab, Koiiiom, Gunt, Oedcnburjr, PajiB, Gran,
Prc*burjr, and Pyniau, and liftwn pariibef, and the ap|)ointmeEits of all
the professtir^, teaclien, and prenobere, are made &om amoDg the inmates
of the abUoy. The arch abbot of St. Martin'*, lias tu-cvrdingly tliargv of
thi- KpiriluiU, and in a frrat measure ahto ijf the tciiipcral wolfiire of the
itihabitants of two buiidrod Gemuui tijuorv mik« ; it ii not fiurprising',
tlien^fure, if the election of a new abbot u matter of istereit to the whew
couatiy rouiid.

TBE ABnET 07 UABTIKSBEBS.

195

The nficrnooD bad boen Traiwl«rFuUy bmutiJiil, uid I could Murdy tcftr
mjTMlf from tbe lovely ipeetade pnwnu>d ftma xhe top of the tower. The
HrMiinf; drew on, and we were still goMipin{|> Cionnon, Himnrioo, and
Lattii, all mixed b^i^hcr; u Oiv Rucnaaf mix French nud RiHwiftit, tliA
people of AIhco Frcuch and Gcniuui, so do the Hungamns in tlieir con-
Tcnation mingle together Uunganui at>d Gennan, at least, 1 ibouM p«r*
hrnpa add, the; do w in the pr«M>ice of a Gennao. An immniMi nunbar
of Gamao vrordi aad phraMS have at all ereiits obtained atrreacy, and
although many naloua and pernvwins afic»1a have been mode to hunt
them ont, they oontiniie to muntain their ground.

Hbe tva suik, aiid ad I turned towards the Baoony foieat it by before
n»e, an iminenM tiiibrokeii ouac oTf^oona, not ligfatniwd to the uiud's sya
by its ivry equivocal roputatioii. My uoinpaiuoru tli^ monki, howeveTi
a{)peared to be scuuuinted with every " dingle and bushy dell of that wild
Wood," as one of tJi« abbeys it situated on the oppa«t« ndv by the Pliitten
Lake, and anotlior in tb« very ncntre of the {orast. Tltis u caUed " Bacony
B«I," that is the entrails or kernel of the BaconV' The oioDki have
therefOTe ol^n occasion to rross the fomt in orery oirection, and are inti-
mate with all its wild popolation. Those immense oak woodfl biv* been
found V4>ry favouiaUc to the roaring of hags, and in this part of lluogaiy
therdore. the swiiush multitude takes precedence both of oxen and ilieap.
I lAs chililren, the inhabitants of tius fareit learn neither reading nor
i^rriting, and very littli.- relij^ion, nothing bnt tlie numagenaent or pigf,
t wlkosc existence indeed tlicir owu 'u la^vd. Ilicy live in (rcncrol,
Uy on pork and bacon, wiUKinrd ki Iiiglily with t)iv " Paprika," of which
1 have alrendy spoken, that no one uiiiLceuj>t(mti>d to these epicy morsels
can vcnturv to taste them. To tlus they drink the Uunganaii wine in
^jlBnUinited quantities, living, however, day and tiight in all weatliers, en-
I linly in tlie fnvesL Tliey wear large thick wliit« woollen mantles deso-
lated with Aowors and oisameots in red thread or firagtnents of red Ma£
I mentioned to my comnanion.i a paseage I recollected in Diao Caanus, in
vhidi he dsaoribes tho Paiinoniajis as vearing nuuittH of tJiis land. " It
is fwy poMablo," ho replied, " for thcM Kopenyc^ as they are called, with
^Iha large loose decvos banging down, we OB^ worn in Pnnnonian Huit-
and are never swa in Dacia on the other side at the Danube. Tttesa
'jDantlea always appear to ittnke even* stranger, and are therefore very
likely to have been obserrcd by Dion Casrius.

" It is often very difficult," continued my informant, *' to say whether
tiieae Bawiny fonat<-r« are swineherds or robbeni. Their wtmdering and
mecrtalQ mode of life, and their supc-rivrity in strength to tbcir mor»
•otlled coontt^men, are einnnnstanccs by no meana nroorablo to their
honesty. It is of them that tbe poet says :

■* Fsra von 1 Jchc, Lust and Letei,
Wdl' ich hier im dualBn Wald,
Wo im .Siiirm ilie Eirfam bstoi,
Uod dn- Wolie I]euh-n w-lulli.
Suniienitjuja and Suimiciniiithca
Sckwinrton Bnvt mir bkI UmmM,
Und «« bonTk* Hosrdt hOttn
Im Oebftaeh M niatiNt Pflkibt.
Kelne MensehcnniiniiH? drisifDt
I>Bicti die Obde an mein Ofar,
o2

196 THE ABOEH' OF HARriNSBBRC.

ScttM dw VandrlD fliehl und dntiet
lieber fen tn Uoach odU Kolir.
Aui drra Huik nur sii<r«il<ii
Sumnit bvnuf Oer Gbcke fSUa^ Ac.*

" The bad chamctvr of Um« sinni>henlf Iiu givrn nK to a law in
Hungary, that on}' noe nhseiit from liij N^ witliout permnsion, ti ngsrded
as a n^bbcr, ami {>unuli«<l acoording^lr. Th«se mm, Kowervr, on tba wbole,
are not so bod u might be suppoiea ; lhe;r nerwr ham the poor, and tliey
{MtT nroper respwt to the cler^-, roiiflnin^ thsir depredatioiu to tbe rica
noDility, for tney are (n«>d* of librrty tini e^ualily. About two yctrs
ago thcnr attacltod a caatle and plundered it of seventeen thouumd fiorioa i
but within MIX nionihi aniTw.tni^, I saw the ipirrnwt build thdr neits in
the ikulk nf thn«o whn had perf'irmM thii expljut."

He priningial ivca))on which tW " Gonat:" (sn'inrlitffd) carries, u 8
vmall, neatly made hatc^m. Bxed to a handle nbnut thi-ee feet long, wliich
■mrei a* a walkin^f-rticV, a pajit'>ral crook, or tn on* wood for fuel. When
several of them meet in the forc«t, tln^y oncn omiuo tbeaisclves by tlu9w
ing thij weapon al a mark, and in tlii; gnme they hsTe attained an cxtn-
ordinary degree of sliill.

Jly CDn)iiani'>a went on to inform me lie Iii«l onco witoewed an in*1
nf this in Pesth, whither two " f^manzC had driven n pair of bufiiJoM
for sate. Tlie animnis hod somehow become ^uddenlr ciiragi>d, and had
rt»h«d down a hill and ov«r the Dantibi* bridn* into ih* very eentre of a
crowded market-place. Tlip om- waj stoh uki^ii, but ihe other oontiaued
ovcrthrovriug and trF,niing down every thing in it« way, and no way re-
mained but to try to hit him with the liatfhec. Thta vriu nreonliiigly unna,
luid the wt^agton thrown «> acciiratelvi that tlm animal, tliougli in tho
midst of n crowd, ww »inirlc exAJitly in the right phicif, and instantly fell^^J
to the gruuiid. Their ilcill in tl)« ufls of tliis weapon )*, however, by no^^^|
mc«.ni« always dcwirabfo, for they are often (eropted to try it on men »»^^^
well as on trees and buffaloe?. In their quarrob among themselves, Uuae
liitivlieti ofipQ play in important a part a« the dag[(er* among the Spaniards.
One may often observe them, whe^n tlioy nre inivlined to come to blows,
suddenly turn round ami wheel nwny to n couiiderahlo distance, in order
to obtaiti lIkt »piiw 1 ifcc*!,iry for throwinjr ili« lintchet. and if they have a
niitid to ntuck a Btran;pr, th^y often turow a liatchet at him, as other
banditti will Hre a piste!.

It would be unjust to asst'rt nf the Bacony fureit, that it is full of re-

Far Twin luvi- imil lifu ami |ilaurnr«i
Tliroairli the fori-it'» irlnoni I wend ;
Liati-'iimi,' ti> till- wiilre** wiliI mcuuTC;
Hvrv nir Iirintlj- limln I lernl.
Sloimt imil traccbixig nui* l«Vf now
Swaritied my brtiut nnil burnt ray brow;
Nfi-er huniiin tuiw 1 lirur.
I'lL-ririni: l!inni;jli ilir uiowit miuecar^

NfVef L'lJlllL-* !ltllllill-t ■Olllll),

'fliim tliv ilrutitroalc* hnrnkuiK rauniL
Ercri tlw liltk birds will fly.
To «Uig wlient ibcy cnii WMt the »ky y
Only tomeiiinci ircm tlie vdlley.
CoiM'S the claiiitiTi]; o( the bell*," Sue

TBE JlDBET OF UASTIXSIIBSG.

197

giilar luiditti, but it has ilwa^'* ax* Abundant populatioii of what may be
rvpirdeil as Jait^iTous chanururA. To tliof« vlto are placed under their
pro(ecti<Mi, IinwMwr. «r who visii them in their forest hui», or gnvsip with
tham "vvr Uirir f»ri-9it tirc-^, llwy nrc the most fniult, kotiast, hoepitahle
fcUowB ill the WOI'IJ.

" I have nricii," jiroccvded my iofurmant, '* paid them vi»ita and paseed
many iiiUtrectiiiff hour* in ihvir company. Tim lut tJm* vaa about two
ycart ngc, nhcn the la*t »f the gnnt robb<T bAiid* wliich }ia4 ntea aniou^
thirm, under the ^daiice of tiip rcnovcord chioF, Sobri, bad been tatcE^i,
and brought to the galtou-t. Sobri nai a haiidsomo young nuui of about
tveaty-two^ who had, f<ir throe yean, Iccjit oil the ftrm* and eaftles nmnd
in terror, and a long- time elapsed biTurc he, and his most diet ingrui shed
companions, could be arrested, for thev were as cunning as they were Lolil,
aud llie pnsniitf, as U frequently Uie ease, aa well as the niilhrs and land-
lords c^ Uio little iuni, all round the couutr)*, were Uicir fncndi^. At Icnj^th
acoiwderaUa body of troops wa» brmiglit agau»t them, and after a tan*
giaaary contest tliey- were taken. There remained, indeed, to the last
•one aoubt wiUi reaped to Sobri liini««lf, na some asserled thnt )>■> had
cscafin), with n larfi^ sum of money, unil gfim to America; but the pro*
1>a1>iliiy is sgainft this account, for » body was af^OTwardi found of one of
thi> roKbcrs who had been shot, whieh Sobri's parents deelareJ to bi; that
of their son. Many of the biuid were htlledt ami others taken, hut many
quietly <Iiiiper«ed and ttnik up itipitn their occupation of herding swine.'

" It was H party of tlwrso whoiu I was induced by eurio&ity lo vi*it, and
1 Found them lyiag round their fire, not far from some huCa oudt of rtmw
•nd bmnches of trees. There were seven of them, and in answer to my
salutatiou. tliey timted me to come nearer, but remained quietly by the
fire, without disturbing thcm»vlvei to do mc honour. 'I'licv were dark,
wild, jKnt-erfiil lookinj; men, wearing tlic nuttoniil costume, with their coal
bW-Jc tiiiir shining with hog's lord. I soon hit upon a plan of inrinnatin^
inyaetf into their good graces. It happens that I am very strong in the
■nna^ and seeing a very thick cudgel lyin? near tiiem, such n$ thev use
against the woIvm, I uk*d theni w'tu-lh^r tlicy bvlievril that I c^^iuld lireak
it into tliree or four pieces. Thev defied me to do il, and 1 hmke it ao-
^Wrdingly, Ae tliey arc great adniiiew of bodily Btrtngtl), tliey imine-
^diatcly stood up, madu ni« welcome, and begged me to itit down with
' Aem. I n>nlied I titould first like to wrextlc ft little if tliey were u> in-
dined, and did not take my place till I had thrown two, and been thrown
bv the third. Wc werv now the best friends in the world, and I took tny
place among thorn . The fire was trimmed, and a larfiie dry trunk of a tr«e
was dragged fonvard and thrown on it, the smaller Imnelies being Inokeu
off and serving to kindle the enontious stem.

*' They now brought wine and ■ Paprika bacon,' and as I began to »]ieak

loT those of tlie band who had junt been bung, they cLpreeBeil gmat «yiQ-

Fpatliy for them, and one of them said, ctapfnug mo familiarly on (he book*

*Ah, sir, it's always the dioicest of the fritit that people luiiig up ;' altiiding

to a custom of the «>untr%', during tlm niitoge, of picking out tlic Iinott

branchos of gropes, and haiigiiig tlicm on n stick to be earned liom« to

* Ap)in|[nt(>b went ibe rvund O^llwCvruMU pees* a fev v«eltl ago. In which it
wu ilxN.l iliiil iIm tflvlmti-d llnwmrian bajviu cliieT Schufari tUd nailj ttcufc oa
the neraslon here aJluckdto, lait ba£aflcra varluty oTindventiuu, MlUcd m a dni^-
gist In Charlestoa- TV.

TflE DAKTBE FKOU KAAB TO FERm.

lb mind of nimic. It was, therefore, widi tlwM choic* gtMpe$ ihat taj
TObb^ vristird to <<tininu« liu ctomnidoc.

" Tb« pleasure which tlies* pt^nlc t&ko in hntnnjir and reUHaff robber
stories, a»d mmantio legends oi ruined castles, ib a fuffi owit pioot of ebeir
Irvely iiiiiig^tuitiua, And them b na doubt that many a mti jomg feUow
it inmirwl by thc» tt> Am^ of limikr daring. It tvtiOy aroeon to be
Im either poTcrly or cnvctousiiea ihau lore of action that mMes n>bben
at them, ill other Gircuntitaiion it would u eaeilj niaki.' tbeui bemes. *

TH£ DAMtlBE FROM UAXB TO PESTH.

In order to reach Pcsth. I bad the choice betwoen the nbor^atcutJDiwd
" Butchers' road," traveled hj the herds of cattle, and the steamboat domt
tile Danube. I waa not \on(( in deciding for the Utter, although it wua
omaneotcd vith aume ihflicultivs ; fur the stcamlxnut t'aunnt enma up aa
Uch aj Raab, but lien two Germ&n miles dowu the river, Ht a littltf |)Uce
called Gon vi^i wluch may be conHidcred as a Btvrt of suburb of Raab. For
tlte salie ot this t»o inillu' jouruv}', fur which w« bad till two o'clooli, wft
were oblievd to get up at suorise, and go oii iKxarJ a little yacht that waa
lying in uiu Raab ami oi the Dunulw, called also tlip Littlv Danube. It
was not till the yacht wai ciiuiuucd with boxM, and trunks, and |>ortiiian-
teaufl aiul good* t>f rariout deecriptioiH, and children, and fat womt- a. and
Hungarians, and Gonnana, till it wetaod leady [a ihdc, that our ttupper
gav« t}u> ngnal, and ve wer« allowed to atan. W* pjuncd out thittugb
what is caOed the " Wat«f-Ciut«," through whicli thi; Turks cffix-tcd oa
antraaee when they took the town. There were m&ny tmcea of hulls on
the stonM by the gate, but I couM not r<-fi'nin from putting my hand^ on
tbeim like an unbcli^viug Thomas, for a strange fcvljng of doubt dome-
tSmes ooiaes over mc coiicerniag all the occurrences of past duys.

Front beneath ihia water-gntv I obtain'cd ou interesting view, at well
out of aa into llie town i for from thi* gftte tliv iu»rkrt- women had ranged
thsmadm on bot^i sides, and formed u {lit^turu likr tlie lir«t acene in tha
■ocond act of " MaiMniieHo;" and they wurp^ oSvriiig delicious fruit at
littla ntore tlian the snine imaginary price at that ]>aid by the playen ; fiir
iBCtanec a penny for two lurgi; melons, or for eeventy pluain, or forty ca-
cumbera. Two tuiA yonng fowl* fiii' 1*!!W tliiin itixpeiice. There Heemed
to me no longer utiy thing strange in tlic ft^ct that hu ruiny Hungariaa
kiuga had killed tbenuelTes by eating too much fruit. Matthias Cvrt-inua
{alt sick and died after eadng nwiie frunh lig^, and Albredit after cEitin^
mdoua. On tlie other side of the wati^r-gnii^ Iny thu luu-bour, and all tbo
far from inconsiderable bustle of the tnulo and couimcrco of Haab. Ilia
great tide of traflic docs not, iu this part of the Da-uube, po&s up llii; priu-
cipaJ ftrenni, but into its smaller branches, for the real Uiuiube between
Raob and Preebitr? is full of ialand^ ahoab, and taudbtuiku ; and tl)# ves-
mIs coming from the low«;r part of the river aav willing to uToid th« strong
cun-ent of lli« imuu striTani. Tlie little Danube, although it tuu the tliaud-
Tonto^ of iunuinerable wiiidiug^, is deeper and mort> tnuiquil. Large
Teseela cannot, however, urwceil furtlivr up than llaob. Hero they du-
chargr tlwir cargoes, and wlmte*cr is dwtJunt for Wiesclbu^, Pres-
burg, or Viermn. is spiit forwanl in small*^ rrnft. The prineip^l arti-
cles of commerce arc corn and cattle, cf which tlio former goes mostly

THE DAirunB FBOH filAB TO PESTH.

to ^Puaelborg (on the Nmiiedler L^e), and tW Utter, as I hare said, to
Ottdeobuig, whence it u duttibutnl orvT Awlniu I cnuUI b<a my veil
make out why tlie vom did noi tmi<>] tlio wliola wsy to Pim1)ur^ and-
Vienna by watOT. bnt I «ra> inroniied t)iat it was on a«eoiint of raiMC eS
tbe oom-nulb ly'utg sc&tleced at wry ctriiiiitlenlile <li*taiic» n>uiul VicniUt
altiKKtt ait far a* the Ilunjpinaii ffoulier ; aiid that utticc IiiiuUcarriiige in
BuDgvjr is Mtmiialiinfrly cbeagi, tho millvTS ])n-fi'rrfd f«tchin][f it frotn
'WittMlbnrfT, to allowing it to go to Pr«ebui^ or Vienna. wh«n! it« pnce
vould be much cohanecd. THis can hardly be tlie only motive, nevertbe«
leu, it may be that beyond Wieselbuzf^ the Ba*igation of llie litil» Da-
nube bMomw atiH more difficult.

As sooD M the vistied^far nganX of our doparhira had bceii i^ivcn. a
Iiltl« hone waa attached to a. lung rope, and aa he begsji to trot, we fouml
ouiwIvM moTtD^ ven* jvlenaand j down the naimw rivi>r. havitiff on ons
aide tho hij^lilaiiil* of the coimtiy of Baob^ and on the atUcr tlic " gnldvit
fniit gvden" of the island of Schiitt. Amoii^ thotc of tlio psaRDgvn wfan
jirefriicd tho tarry deck to tiio conlined air below, were tntdeHnen^ ua~
vanta, iiinltwijvn, and clerks, Uormans, and Hungariant, all with muHta-
tiawt, according to the nutoia of tho ouuntry ; nicn.haiiu from llaah, a
few patriots, an Austrian nobleman, and mjnalf. \V» hm! tcarcply opened
onir mouths befoiv nil tlie Hungnriuii lopies of tho da\'. tho lAnguaffv, tlM
oonslitiition, tlir nrwspapvTs, litonUtint, ull cnmc on toe caj]i«t, and ocva-
•roned tluit lively dlscnsflon which is siin.> to arixe wherever two or thn-o
aro |^ntli«rH) f igether ia Hsn^arv, Thc> strift* bocnmu portieulnrly wnrm
batween the young nobleman and (Otoe of tlie Huufrnrions present, and I
bad sevenl oppnrtutiiliaii of displaying my impartiality, and playing the
uropirr. The Aiiotriami am Riim to see the shady side of every thing in
Hungary, and the Uungariaiie find it tcit hard to approve of imy thing
AastriMt, and as I was ndther an Austrian nora Hmtniiaii, thoy found it
convenirat to appeal to me. The Muogwians beUero uial Anstxia eiercisos
JtMt as oppi—jye and rcotmining an inflnoncc on the western aa on tbe
eanem borden of her temtoncs, and they aro thcrcfbnt di«|»i>HMl to a
friMidly sympathy with ns Westom Gennans, whom they regurd as
liostil« to Anstria. The Austrian had begun the attacic, on this oc«as)oa,
fcyatpwiliny groat contempt far the state of Hujii^urtnu a^culturv, which
h» had hero for the first time became acquainted with. Mid by paintinj^ ia
Kuifa coloun the state of lUrery in wl^ch tho country Etill rvmaiued, in
ipite of the fitToarabIa inEucuce of tho recent Diet. He then •LctciiMi
toe wkAU of profpnity, order, and comfort of the Austrian pensaot. c»ir-
fmrei witli the bii«knard and oppreioed condition of tho Hungarian,
znaintaining that in Au«tna tbe ompcror himsvL^ even if he bad right on
his side, was not sure of being able to obtain ju«ttc« wainrt a iwofaat,
wbilst in Hungary tho k)W(>^t noble could oppnws his ongliboim as much
, u he pkasAil. The Hungarians lie went on to «sy, won vary ready to
try out *' Liberty and Fn>r^d<im," but it waa really enjoyed by only tba
onler of nobility, anti tliesv v;vr» often the vru«l«*t tyrants to the ojipiTaMnl
millinua. Thfi Anstrtan pea>ant wai made of bettor slufF than tlio Hun-
I eiuion, (or thou^^ ho would not lubinit to tyranny, he wii» williugty sub-
[ Ject to the law. If told nidi i* tlw law, he was content, nltbouf^ evnt
^the law might be an tinnmsnnable <m9 ; but of this ntluntary submission
no one in Hungary had any idea. Neither noble nor peasant would sub-
mit to any thing but force. He muw indeed coofcn that in Austria thecB

rne dahuhe pkom raab to testb.

wore mftDj thiofft that mifclii !» aoMtidcd. It wiu not right thit thoy
(ttie nobles ) ithould l*e &p« from military ilah% tior that the ptannnU iilioula
bear alone thv burdfo of itmnv of tlie taxes ; and all milighttmed AiHtriwu
heartily wubed for a rcprMentativc ooiMtimtion ; but even viiih Hmr ar-
bitmry ^vi;niinciit> the people wcrv intiuitrly better pnM«cted cheru thaa
10 Huiigaiy.

Tlie Ilun^riAnfl defead«d thenuvIrM valiantly a^inet thetiv attach*,
deolsnug that alUunigb tb« lot of tli« peasantry had hitlierto b«en bad
«nougl^ it tiwl batn entirely dtaogad (nr the bolter by the »cu of the Um
IKm, and tbnt the fi-utts of this ani«lioratioD wonld ioon apfi(>ar. Vm- fair
of tb«ir o»ble« deserved to b« called tyrantSi and the conduct of niAnv of
them wu really inoft palemal InwarcU thrir peasaata. Force must, indeed,
they admitted, be tometinwa vnipTiycvl, but tlio effactn of the itick were
not always prejudiaal. That a« to freedom, tlicro cmtid Iw no frrcdora
wlierc a despot «aa placed at the hmid of alTairB ; that t)ie will of the cm*
peror was omnipotent in Aiiilrin, but by no means *o in Hiingar}'. A*
soon as a inan ttt (oat in Aiutrin ho felt hitnielf re«Irtuned by a thmuaad
petty rvittrictiont, but in Hungaiy be could breathe freely, and aay and do
vliat he would. Other ameliorations would fallow. Much had been al*
Teady don^, and one of the firatstep* lowards creatinff a nntionnl foeliny,
and the purification of the Inn^a^^, by ridilin^ it of the Uvmiftn, Latia^
aud Slavonian words with wluch it liud been conlaminnied.

Upon this hint the Austrian spoko ai;iun. and declared with rather a
COnteniptuOua sau\v, tliat if the Huitpirinii-i should l<e nhlo to lurcecd in
wrappitij; thanuolrea up in their Asiatic idiotn they wotild txntu Iwvome
complete Orientals, since it was only by means of tho Gennun and Ij»tin
laagua^ tlint tfaey had been able to maintain an interrniirie with the en*
tira ^steia of European cultnre, 1 lemipoii fnllownt of roune a very lon^
Olid aiiiniated discussion, which lasted till wp reached th<> point wlicre the
hranch of thi- river we woro on, entered tlio Great Danube, and wliero we
were to excliau;^ the little yaclit for a vessel of sixty horee power. Tbe'
aight of itiU majestic strtrain awoke in all a i-ivid Benantjoii of pleasure.

On the one end of our little j-aelit were ptiinted the Hungarian wnrde,
'* Itltm n-tiiti/r," that U " (Jod i« with ws,"" and on the op|ioMti> end " Smii
eieiuink," (whii then would be at^ainst us), and wu certainly Itad eome <N>-I
caaion for these excellent mementos, now that ne found ourselves on thu'
mighty stream in a vesiel that threatened to f^ to ptec^t with every
stroke it received. It wa« wull for ub that Oud wof with us, for we »onUi
had lo experience tluit wo had, at all evcuK an enormous tow-rope agaiiut^
UR. Just Hi we etitervd into the main Do-nuhe, and wore driven not far
frem the »lioro, it happened that we met one of tln>»e hirj^e vessels frcna.
the lower part of the rivrr called " Niii/iui," drawn bv (iftv iuMTies, The
rope by wliich thj« j^x^it hi'uvy (ltnN--niii'^ti?il vTaft was |mlleil alniig', waa
slaekened, and the hnrsdn ^tonpod at ennamfuidt to allow US to pass acroas
n> is usual in such cases, but 1 don't very well know how, — either because '
were too alow, or tile riders of the horses were tiio impatient, or too rerard-
lees of OUT lafecj', — but before we bad crossed we heard a^ain the wild ciy, <
« Uo he ! Ho lio ;" mth which the»c people vif^e forward their horsey j
and the immense rope was suddenly dragged up immediateir before the
prow «f our vessel. Two inches further would have carried it under the
Iceel, and our felucca with its whvic contents wotild have taken a dip in the
Daaube> By great exertion »o managed to stop just in time, but wc were

TIIE DAKFBE FROW lUAIl TO PESTIT.

Hint

•glinst the other twmI, uid its Itovrnprit cnu-r«d our caitla, hnnk-
iag down tonus stain, perioratiDfr some Imkrds, and lilliiig it vith pale
tur^'t- I WM toM micli accideiiu were not uncominaii, an tliene nnnnixnialjr
Illicit Tnpcg drawn by fiftj, # ixty, or ei^tj hor«e«, wftr* nbio W lift » large
vesicl out of t.)te water. Tlie invii rit^^ in towing: on ibe Danube
an; a tmtgh wild Mt of fellovrs, and arv otten enougb iu fault. rspcciUly
wb«n, a* i* frvtiuffnlly tlie case, tbpy belong lo ilie cJais oftiob/ft.

W« dined at Gouv9, and bad tM-o Ivue Ublv^ ijuitc fdl of panraiic who
Iiad come frain Raain and the ciivinmN, iii order to go hy tlie steamer to
Pestfa, wbcrv a gnat fair vna duon ta be held. At our table a good d«al
of G«tTniui was epolcvn, but at the other I heatd onljr Magyar ; and I uo-
ticod that, whenever aij caRi]iimtons gat mcrr}-, they Hli])[>cd imninliatcljr
into the inathci- ti>]i|^<i- I nni mre I rtne vl hnniln^l ^vr <vnt. in the
Mtiraacion of some of lh«rn, by a few woids of thanks f»r « ci£:ar) which I
•olun-»fl in Uungarian.

" £n Maffj/ar watf^ok" (I am a Maprjut') if a phnue one- often lieart
ottered with no Rtnnll eompWcmf^', and "a SrAuwnli," (** the German
there [") is equivalent to an expm«ion of iomething like comempU We
never ur in ine same inaooer, " I ani a Gemian." I belit-ie lliia ii, in
•om« measure, onrin^ to a want of nationulily, and nloo, in iome ineaiure,
to what I must think our exccHirc modesty. Wc havo ccrtaiulT as rauch
iea*nii to be proud of our rare as the I Iiinj^nrian). nnd whenever it boa
bap|>encd to me, iu a foreifi^n country, to liear any one wiy, " Hn Mtig^ar
wiffi/ok," or " i ant a Pole," or " I am an pji^ii<)hmaQ," 1 have never
&il4id to reply, " And I am a tiennaii C and 1 tliink we should do well to
accustom ourselves to do to.

After dinner, we went down to the riv«r rida to tee a Inr^ Bteanvr
como in, which had broiifrht no fewer than two tliouaaad pige from Tuik^,
^trihuied la three vessels which the had in tow. The boats built ^r
this puTpOM are wry conveniently arranged, and i)ir> ^g* ore nndoubtedly
Car Mtter aoconunoaated than many of the ]K»r negroes in tbo Spaniso
slave-slups. The pg-bonts lure two or tl>ree decks one above oaother,
corered with jiigsties, divided bj* vtroii^ wooden poling, so that the Aresh
air cnn pass everywhere through) and spooe* are left all round and atnonjp
them, ao that tliose who have cli&rgc of Uio animaln may be able to ^vb
Bear and attend properly to thrm, not more tlian twelve or ftfteeii pigs
bein^ ptaeed together. They are alto well fed with Turkish wheat wlule
oa toe Journey.

All the countries on the Save, the Drare, and the tower Danube. Croatia,
Slawnia, Bomia, Sfltriii, Wallaehio, and Moldavia, possess ininiento riebca
ia twine; and since in some of thow jiroYiuces, and «till more in others
borderiiig on them to the south, tlitrc arc nuinhfru of ptr^us who abhor
tliis uncleut onimaL it fallows that thev arc nhin t^) export vast numbera
to tbeic Dortlwm pork-loving neighboiira.

I Tinted the ve»ela eu^ged in the conveyanoe of those interesting emi-

ita, in oompaoy with a young Servian, to whom the greater port of

two thovsaad were confined. H« wa* ahanduMncyovng man, wear-

ibtt Hmgarian dress, speaking Qemaaa, Servian, and other languages

wearing a number of bcilltant rings on bin fingers. I drank a cup of

coAee with nim, and was thinking that, like Mil>OEi<>h, fae might be destinad

to beeonu! a king of Servia; but nis fate, poor fellow, wu a different ooa^

tor a short bme after he was murdered by a robber.

At l«u|^tli our fltmmbnnt nmn In fmn Viprtn*. nnd feb-hrtl us any
fma what we may call tlie f*oldeii strand of Gunjru ; for herc^ u on the
abores of the TliciiiH and outer Uuin^rian rivers, gokL is sometimes ob-
tained fimn tlw rirrr Mnd. Tlitti is aii occu]MitiL>a excKinvdr of tile
gipMMy who ddivfT the goM to th« goremmnit, m a gort of tnbol*, at
vny low prioM. At ATanvtuM. ni>ar Komara, we snw ft niitnbw of them
eu^ng«d in their intercstini: wurk. Their jilaco a Loord in a ekmia^ po-
mtirni, OH (thirJi durre :ire several iSagnnal furrowH or grooveii ; tney then
Kratch tip tho contl nf the rintr over the board, and pnuiin^ water over
it, the gmd ilust, btnnp^ heavier than tho earchy pnrticltrs, nrmaiDS in the
^roOTet. The giptiea thi^n scmtch otit thii sedimi^nt and niix it with
quicloiilver, which aitraoLi to itself iho jtaruclea of eold. These are oo!-
tflckcd and sold (c the government ofiicon in little oall* of the wci^it of
about three or four ducats. Goldsmiths and other traders arc forbidden,
tiniter eevtrrv |)«iiidtiM, to purchase j^ld from the ^ptiet. The product «f
those op«nttioiia is eertainly very invc^ntiderable ; hut if wv oousider the

1>TO|inrtian which thrae few ehciveUfull of sand bv&r to the maMos left
yiiip^ in th^ hod nf ttii? river, vre maj rMaonably onncliid^ that immeiue
tnasurei afe still buried in the Danuhe. If the gipsiM can get M
much ae the value of a ducat out of ton rubic frat of sand (whidi is bas
than tbar really do ^-t), % [tiece of tlii> Dumilii- nf s hniictr«d Gennm
nllM is Mmgth, luul a thousand paces in hupojlili, takiiij^ the «and at five
fuet io deptD. would give thirty thc>usa.Qd miUii'ns of ctihic feet of sand,
conttutiin^ ^Id to the vaJiiK of three tlioiuuiijil millions of ducaU; and
the actual depth of the seiid iit ^rauir than fire ftn-t, hik! Uui extent of
tlie goldbcaiinc Danube it grout cr tliun I Iinti> ustnitnt'd it to b«. It t«
also to be recmlected that the g^jMico take the siuid only irom those parts of
the river where they lind iC nio«t eonveniviitr mn on tandhnnks; and. gold
beinj^ eho heaviest nint^rtnl which the wnten aary nlong, it in hi^Uy pro-
bable that the greater <tuuitity lies in the middle of the mer. and the
comparmtinly light*>r particles only are wuhed on the shore. I felt the
*' ncnrd thirM" nwakeniug in me at tlio thought of the rich abundanee of
the precioua metal — the thr«e thousand luiUioos of ducats that went lyinr
below in the deep channel thron^h which our ateamer was cutting ana
founing on its way. A ntngle milt* of this Danuba aaud might atlbrd one
^Id enough ftir one's lifo. if one eould but get it. How many individuals
and nations, likv the Danube, possess hidden treasures, nf nhteh (inly a
paltry gipsy purlion ever comes to lig-ht. Could they de»i;ln[ie all the ca-
pabilities which God has bestowed on thara, how houadlou might become
their phyiical luid mental wealth I

Wo were rcn-ired in grand style at Komom by the whole of the mili-
tary, in lull nnifoim, with the bands of several regiments, coming to salute
OcnernI Bagasei, whom we brought with us, and who had just beea ap-
pointed coumiandaut of Penth, and the sound of the instruments carried
me hack in thought, to the days when the chie^ of the legions vame down
the Donnbe to inspect the numerous castles built by the Romans on its
bank*. The geo^aplueal positwn of Komom is too important — it is too
evidoiitly pflbiBwI out by Natuia (or the Mttltmtut of man — not to have
be«n occupied in the earitect periods of history.

The ialaad of SchUtt terminates at this point, and the arm of the
Danube, which had separated (mm it at Presborg, as well as that called

THE DAlfUBB PSOU BAAB TO FESTH!.

tha BUdE Wstor, inn umt* ngaiii with tha mnin stKnom, titSeh aho n-
«i*« iMkr thu place tb» wabns of th« Keutzx and thv Wsog'.

From KomoTn, dwreTore, there arc navigable wBter-roads id tamy ££•
teifDt tUKctiaoa ; on the upper DuiuIni to lUab, and on the lowflr Oututw
t» Feath and fiuda, on toe Vi'uag aod Neutn to tbo Cafpatfiiana in tha
north, and oa tlw BUdt Water to (iie com countnea in tbe bknd o£
Schiitt.

The Romans occupied this important pooidan with their much-Telaed
city of Brignutiuiu ur Hrcgetixun, oiid it wa« giUTUoncd by llio Icgio
prima adjutrix. Rooiaii ibrtiticattutiK were shown to m% at Siony, oppo-
■it* Konom, and I lisd often oooanon to no^ra here, aa ekewbcre along
tlw Danube, the ^miliarity witlk matters cvouect«d with tlw Roman times
diiplaycd by peofJe wbu did not pretend, u I lUd, to belong' to thu l«*rned
woHd, and yet nfWn pot my iguonuiuo to shame. They talked uf the
aimrtvra of tlie Yariaiu l^'^ons, of the prima adjntriK, or of tlw I«^ia
deeinu in Vienna, of the legio secimda aajatriic in Buda, oF the iepa lir.
GeminB, near Presbtu^, aa if they had liusrd it all iVoiii their grand-
ftthcn.

The town of Komom. aa might be imaginMl from ita very advantageoos
podlion, haa a eoniidetabte trade, ncd & pipulation of tnenty ihotifistid tii-
ubitanta, withent eonntui]^ tho uiiliton-. Since the uniiMi of Huagiuy and
Atutria, the tomi has aercr bccu occupied by uu eucn^i not crvn by tha
Turka whn paet o ae e d all tbr cuuntn- round. Ilnd Komom been lott, its
•&to wonM probably haye been sliared by all Hungary aa far aa tbe Car-
pslltiaiie.

On the strand wirre a. great umnber of beggara, and amnogst tlieiu a
poor cripple on cruldws, with t»-<> woodea legfi. We threw Iiiin tram the
«t«amhnat some copper money that we had collected, but imluclrily cwild
DOC reach quite fur enough, fer some of it iell into the edge of the iratv.
The poor cripple was xiowly sUioping tn pick it np, when a raacal with ths
fidl uae of his lee* and ami, puabud before him and snatchDid it away.
Ute enjoynwiit of lUi, hia iU-gotten gniu^, we^ livwvvtr, lut momentary,
for another lad, ont a whit 1cm OBedy-looJti^ SDd tattcn-d than either of
the other two, darted fnru-urd, and bestovii^ some hearty euffs upon tha
robbi'r. forced the money from him, and gave it baek to the poor eripnla
who coidd not help hiaiael£ Uad Uaionn al Raachid witneeaod tnts
aotiati, he woidd eotainly have made him Kadi of Komom upoa tbe ipot.
••UeMedarathejaet."

We hud now n^ab all the watcn of the Uarmbe uniU<l into one dwn-
nel, to Bay nothing of the daily contribution of twenty millinng of timers
fiDra tlw Waag and Neutra, and aa we dashed alonf^ witliuut any inter-
nptJOd, we soon lo«t sight of the great plain, tlirough which we had heea
psisbg fix- aeveral daji piut, and reuchknl the mountains, through which
the rivor linda or ibrcee its way to Crran and fiuda. In the whole of its
couTM ti>e Danube paaaef three of tfaeee nouotaia diatricta, alternating with
As rut plsinSi tttniu|^ irhkh it Bows. First, below Ulm eomca tlw
idun of mraria, intsmpted by tome hilb of tittle inportaiice ; then tit*
Deaiuifid range of nountaini botwtsen Tins and Vienna ; then tbe rrcst
tiuagarian pUin between Preaburg and Komom ; then tlie mountauious
ngvm bet<nea Komom and Peatfa; again, plain aa far aa Bclgisie;
hetween Belgrsde and Widdia again muimtainat and, lastly, the gtsafe
WaUoduau and Bulgarian plain between Uuugary and the filaek Sea.

la fpow pefiml, snCerior to tuMOfj, it it probaUe Uwt tbe Dtmb« fotintd
thn>« ^TTftt ioluid WW, cocmectcd b; aUancti acnA rfrcn, like tko bkM
Erie, Oiitsrift, Ac- Wallirhia and jiwt of Bulguik bfloognl ptvtttbljr to
the Black S«l The pan o( tbe rirer Iving- between ^^tauut nnd Vt»inft
b tbe fcowt beautiful a* kpU aa the nio«t ir.ierwlia^ ta an tuatorical nyint
of view, but the namiw paMtcs and cataracts betweeo Belgmde and Wid>
din, far <>im>«i>1 any other in wild f^ttdeiir.

Tniinn)mtt<'l\- after pu">>K Ikomcim, the right shore be^s to me, tO]
a*, lenji^ hy Xi wirKi U ■vcUs into conpUte moutitauu. Near (iran
the mfimiMFit begin to apfiear abo on the left ride, and Ux-v soon brcome
M Jteep and ragged, and the river ia j w nau l into sudi a niumw bed, that
tUa maj be r^arded »4 the »aes. lV«e aart the ntountains which aie
called on the left itde the Magiuta, and on the riglit tbe Filia raog«,
Tlie mountahia n««r ScaRn^ gmw ttio wine tha mtmt widely diffiised
throng;!) tl>« country, §u^ as niiw>ng French winea art the Gr«vei or
JIeili)c, or smoni: tlime of Greece the SanuirinD. Throughout Iluii^w^,
Galieia, Sileaia. aod Moraria, if yon oak in any inn for Hun^anau wine,
without iip««tfyis|f tbe «ort, thi)t, th« Neamuhler. aa it t« called, U alwayg
broRfrht. Kcar Kcenneti, stntehini; towardi Dotis and AlmaKh, are
abo the celebrated Moite quarries, which are of «> much imponance to ch«
new bnildinit* now in proece* in Peitth, and likewise to the fortiticadoit* of
Komom. Thcro ia fcniiid in them lintcvtone, Muiddoac, and i-urioua kinds
of marble. paiticuLarlr a marble of ■ piokUh colour, which I noticed m
Pesth, and whit^li 1 fdall have occuioD a^ain to refer (o. A paisengvr in
a <t«amb^>at, howcror. must oan over almvsi all tlut i» iaUrcstiug' to tb«
nacural [ihi!H)io|iher, the political economist, or the historian ; his eye hur-
nes fitwn ]»aini to point, mul he ii borne in a few minutes past many a spot
where Cfio and her nittcra would Ua*v lingered lon^.

The first sight of Gnm U magDiticcnt, and it is ficrhaps tliis tiiic pmiitioa
which Ltu suggesU>d to the IIuii;^nan wriiera the notion that a to«'n was
established here a hundred and iifty-fiv*> year« after the dcttiee. In the
fint period of lliu Hungikriaii niouan-hv, Onui ocLupied Uic position,
aftcrwanU filted by ScuhlweiMenbing- and Ofnn, luid was the capital and
seat of fi;QverDm4>nl of her king*. The Kaint^ Stephen was bom and
crowned here, oi^d up to the year 1241, when it wan ti«jitroycd by the
TaUirs, (!mn remained a rich and populous town, far ncoeediog in splen-
dour all tJie other cities of flunfjnry. It wtis at the same time in pome-
•ion of the most iinportant lnvd« n( the country, aud foreipjer? of several
nations, FreiwJi, Gcnnnns, nnd Italimis, were iiiimfn>it« oimiigli to liave
(juBTterf or itnft» iiMiiriied to theni ; nnd oti the high hill, wliere now
stondd the castle of the prince archbishop, tho priuiute of Iluitcarv, and
a (Treat civlJiedrft], there atood erwi llivn n KKi^iilictiit church m (lie old
gotfaic style, with |jillartnif [iulin.n marble. Thp pliiwt wa« in former times
called, "pap oicellcLUH!," thtf Danube city; hut it* name has rinco been
cbaiijifi-d, not without reason, to tliat of the insifpiiticant stream, the Gmn,
which here enttTJ it. The [lopiitation of Gran haa been reduced to as
thousand, and it l>«an f4:w travna of its former greatness, except its fine
uluatiou, and the almvo^mentioDed castle and catni»lraL

Sitoii after jnu^ing Gran the riv^rr he^na to make !u way with many
turnings and uiiidlngn through som« dil)i<;ult mcmnlniiir>u« pauses ^like a
wi«c man ovcrcoinincr, l>V encrgv and persov^ ranee, nil obttncW to his
progTcas), until it takes its gre&t bend to tiie south. ^VhiIat we were tadc-

SOS

lag this my and tlut, through thu nxauttic nioimUun country, iitglib
CMue on, but the tar warn dftliemuly iniM, and tha prmntiudc on the deck
■ r*«i nijoynwDt. Tho vtan glittcrvd over our bcoos, arid tho moon pQorcd
her kA ndiHticv orer ber bnvealv flocks, and in various turns mid comrra
fif tile mountnina, lights twinkled li'oin unknown villages and honileU, that
lay hidden in tlicir clefU and li^Uowf. We kn«w nvt eveu tlii> nanii.-* of
thcM abodco, and to tlictn nur inrty of a Vmiulrcd utrsti^^rrs, nuhiii^ hastily
by. wa», probably, of na motw intervat than a Hock ut' wild gvvue faa&ing
«r«r their beadf.

At Ui» narroweet jart of the |iua lie tlie ruins of the ancieut castle of
VTiiaehnd, which, «a I have alrvatly iiu'iitioiiwl, t« a HuDgnriaii N<inl sigiii>
^in^ ** htuh castle." Many Uuiigamn kinm liara mode it their rati-
oence, and it was the favourite seat of tli« oelmoted and beloved Mnufcaf
Corviuiu. It b iiuid, by the people of the country, to hare been to magni*
fiiotut that a legate of the pope'*, wlu> «itiit)d it, callml it a poraditiei, and
the opiuioci of an Italian, in a mutter of thi« kind, must be allowed to have
acana wda^ht. Now, nothing remains of it but tome sciinty ruins, rioible
agwneCtne dear aky on the topmut ]>eak of a lofty mountain, and llun>
guian gO*tberd», clothed in skina, viitit it< piis*-frravin cotirtu, in thu ploca
of princH and Irj^ates. Tradition also atnj^iui to it, as an inhabitant, the
uiK|ui«t apirit of u poor ^il. who formerly dvrell on the other side of the
Danube, and of whom Kiii|^ Matthias became enamoured, visitinj^ her
witliout di*do«iug Iuj mi rank. She rvpirdvd lum aa a *uiiplc hunts-
mail, and hopvd he would n-[>ny bcr tender cnnlidfiK.'O by Ofte d»y leading
ber home as his wife.

It was, however, one day acddeotally conimuaicated to her that Uie lorer,
who rowed acrofts the river ttt her at uiglit, wan ai> other than Uie crowned
long of the country, and tht was no Icn tfrrifnrd llinn Piyche under similar
circoinMancM. ijkc her, also, the maiden nudo a discoverN' fatal to h^r
peace aod her loTO. The impaoaable gulf that separated tier from her
Rival lover, the impouibdlity of eier beiii^r truly his, preyeil oil her miod
till ilie bccaiito insane, and threw henwif into the river, acmu wldch ha
bad w oAcn hMteiicd to her arms. Since tiica bur ntsUeae aptrit wandcm
forever about the ruins of WIssehrad, mounung the ka* of Kjiiff Ibtthiaa
and her unfortunate love. I must confeea, however, I watched m vain for
a glinipsc of her white robe*, a> the detotate castle vaniabed behind us in
the dariowas. As we Imt n^t of it llio moon went down, tho whole
•oene aisunied a drrarier aspect, and 1 was glad to go down into tlie cabin,
wbi're, with lampe, and tea, and converutaon, wc might imitate the com-
fort of settled awde*, in the midit of tlic wild dwkly dushni^ river. Tlie
company comasted mostly of Jews and Rascians. some of wtioin Imd paid
their devotions pretty freely to the TMcAtUora, but in one comer sat a bojr
and near him au old man, who spoke a dialect I had heard only once be-
fiirr, und wlio proved to be Rwim ftom the canton of the Gri*oni. The
old man was a eonfectioner at KanchAu, und hail been a* far as Menna to
fetch his nephew, who was to be apprentioed t» hini. One nu^t suppoae
frum the nuniben of natives of the Grlwus whom one finds eogaged In
this trade all over Gennanv, Poland, lluuia. and Hungary-, that their native
land overflowed, if not wtth mitk and bon^y, with vakfai and twcetm«ats ;
but ilmbranchnf industry, to which they arc fo addicted obrfxn). doca not, I
belifvcwxitt aiallathonic. TbelaiUon-. at tint. employed in kcqiingcAltle,
and as they grow up, come out of the tbUc}-i of the Inn and the Ithine, and

find their way to tbnr ancles and cousins, already nUfaliabed m Afferent
|iart)( of Eitropr, of whom ihay lusim tiat, their raroartle trtdcu

Tli« old mu). my fcliow-patfcttgfr, scrminj^ In tliink I miift know u
little of his coanbr as th« Danu be siulors, informed mo ttiat it waf a small
but my wideaC independent repuUic, which liAd formerly been allied to
tha f^VMt and powerfid republic of Venice, and thnt they, tJie Alpine peo-
plo. hod funiishcd tnmpa to tlic V'cnctuum, and lent Uicm ^-aliaiit aid
Bgahut tli« ilangnriana and Torks, in return tbr wlucfa they had nrocived
the privilege of establiehiDf^ lliemselTes as coDrectionera, coffee-hoaw
lumiiii. ooa to fbrtli, in tli« givaC city> In consequeooe, however, of tvrae
iiMmJiPftjirnlmg that liiul ariacD between tlie nsiniblici, tlwae nrivil^vs
wen not rcDewed aficr 17<>6, and a period, iraa tiied witliin wWh thmy
were to »ell their gooda and leave Veuioe, and thus it ha)>i>eQe^ that ibey
were acattered ovef Eumpe. I have vainly eouglit for a voufiniwtMa of
thii faot in thit variinu liiitunral vtnrkii to which I h»ve had Mcen ; but,
to nj tnitli, it in liut (ruMom thnt hietoriatis cnnd^mrnil to br«tnw their
attention ou such little epianden of hiitorv aa (he diapenioii of the «i^r-
Iwtiin of the Giifonx, and yet tlieie little epiaodei ore often replete with
intwott.

or th« town of Wuacn our soug ta silent, for nvithcr sun uor moon gtyt
lijlfhu as we stopped at its harbour to put out some pa«seiifn^n ; and the
vml rif night covered likewise the remainder of tlie Danube, a^ far as I'esth.
Towards (^Eevcn at nif^ht wc aj^iu saw lif^htt; tltey increased, g;littcrin^
before, behind, on every tide, and over tbo liiils and mountains down to
the water's edg^. They were trom the towns of Pesth and Buda, amonpt
whfw shipping we coat anchor, an^l soon after made our way to the hotel
" The Queen of Englnnd," ou the Uauubv Quay.

BUDJ

-rEsrn.

Buda (or Ofen) and Pesth axe, in fact, but onp town ; one ha* arisMi
out of the qUivt, i\\v gniwCh uf one bos been promoted Ly tliat of the
other, and ouc^h i« ind«bivd fur iu greatnetu to itii ooiinexidii witli the
other. Tli4'y ojv uniu«d by a poiitoou hnd^ over Uie Dnnalic, aitd it is
n pity that they Imve not been lon^ t^iacc uiiiU.-d under the eamc municipal
govcnimcut. Of such a union there is now great piobahility, and it is
proposed to distinguisli the one great dty by tlie name of liuda-Pealh ;
Dud sopie Hun^ftrioa writcrf have even uodertaken to prove that the twin
cities were formerly one, kaoim only by the name of rcsth, and tliat the
other appellatiou was acquired by some German inbahitant^ of the right
honk, n'no bestowed it on their quarter.

In old times, before the Turkish con<]uest> it is siud to have hud a period
of splendour, like many other Hungarian ton-ns; but tliv history of the
present city can be dated only Irom the end of the Turkish dominion, far
tt passed from tlie liauds of tlie Mo«Umci into thotH.' of tlie Auutnan^ as a
men- Lvan of ruitu. The city lay buried in filtli and disorder, aiiii ilie
i>ulv buildings now standing nhit-h were tbtrii extant, are xomi' )on huts
auJ stables. There were no suburbs, and the town did not extend beyond
the narrow circle of lis walls. Like Gran, Waizen, lielgratle, and other
lluugnriftu towns^ Pesth wik, in the course of n century, bombardiil, con-
quered, bunit> And ro-coagueted half a doxco times, and its aspect during

that pcrwd probably ictembled that i>f Belgn^ and other citiM of th»
Daoabe, on vluch tlio curse of Turkiali dcinuuiou BtJll rests. At tiie clue
of this pniod. as retuarkaLle aiul md(U>n a riM took place in tnanv of the
townf of Hungary, ab in thow of Riusia, aiW tlw dcetmctiaa of tne Tatar
cmpiK. &> Inte lu the oommoucvmvut of th« eigUlveotli cvntnn', Pcstli
coidd not bo coDiKlared ma frwO frum the lNirb«riiui ^oke, for the Turks
Btill continueil to pxercue a ^ud oii« of Uu moat wrstdmi pJacvs iu the
cm^iirc 1 but iu tlie eowte of Um last hundred yean it has become one of
theslatolioatcif ci^H, not only of Lite luogdam c^' Hnii^^ry, fur it will bear
ft compatJBoa with eome of too fiuMt town* in ibo wotm-

We an aocuaUuaeti to turn always to AoiLTica Stt exanipin of the rapid
growth atiil Jevdopment of cities, bat we h&ve bi Euro|iK •iiiiilar, uid
almost equally stnkin^ «xainp1<e«. Iu JCoglaud th<TC ar« many gntit
towns which a huodrcd^ or ovcu £ily yours Oj^ norc exoradiiif^ly looupu-
ficauL Iq Germany, siooe tlut dose of the last war, many tontis uaTa
ondcrgono Tcmarkablc improvemeiita and extcniiooa. In RiuNoa, Odcana,
8t> Pct«nburg, Taganrog, and othcn, htxv« boon caojuivd into life; and
in Hungary many have nscii from du»t and ruins to a considerable degree
of OToipeiit}'.

T^t wallr which encircled tho old town of P««th, Jo not now contain the
ecvpntli part of tlic nnrfacc covered by tlio niodpni c^ty. It boa four im-
|>ortant and «xt«urre niburbi, nani«d nfW tho tniit four Hnnffarian tdngv,
and containing finer fauildtDSA than the city it«i>ir. Parth is rery f«gu-
larly built upcn a ample and intcUi^ble plan, the old town fonniag s
ouclsaa from which great l>road strccM radiate in every direction, and these
sre again united mth «aeli other, by coaeentric cirma ttroetc. In the
TbanM suburb alou^, tlu< plan hu not been regularly oxccated, and it is
conseqneutly oat of liannotiy witli the rest;. As to Uuda, it canaot be said
to have any plan at all, for tlie unfavourable nature of the gruund, and the
ohitaclei to all regularity pi«iented by the mntintaini, would ncarccly
hatt; prrmittcd Uio execution of Kuch a drsign, liud it been entertained. The
wholp situation and locality of Buda-Peath, grpatly respmbte tliow of Frague^
but iu tfa« former the new and elegant predominates, in the httt«r, the old
and vvuenible : iu tlior poutiuu relatively to the country surrounding
thetn, tliore is also gre«t siinilnritv. TIw- hjrure of Hungary, as of Bohe>
Bua, is compact, rounded, and alnio^ encircled by chains of mouolajni,
vhtbt both countries are cut nearly thiougli the ceutre by the main river>
—in Bohemia, the Holdan-Elbe, in Hungary, the Ihrnnk-. The right
angle fumwd by this rivo- mav bo eonniilurMl m th« m-ntrid and niciroiio*
Utas &tnet of^Hongary. Tho Mun!t, lluiignriAnt. snd otlm conijucni^
tribes eonung over the CarmnhianB, nukdu their first Mtclement on the
banks of the TheisK, but Duke Geysa filed die seat of lii* govem-
nMnt at Gran, and it continuod tlio permanent nmdent^ of King St«phon
and his mcccssors, till the attacks of tho Tatars induced them to rcmore
their coort to Stiddweissenbarg, whicli, however, was menly a loit ef
VevssiUsa, a phea for oervmoniee and coronations. Siuhlwet&ieobutg «m
then to Buda-Pesth much what IVctburg id now. Thi^- I>i«t, for instance,
is held at the latter d^ on account of its convenient locality with rtrspect
lo Vienna ; tt^vvrtlielcM, Pesth. as tlie reaidenoe of the Palatine, of the
Kwnstes, and of all the principle public officers, as the focus of uatioaal
sad sdeotific culture^ ai the scat of the uuivenntiin and acadcmiet, the

^908

THB PAIS AT tTsrn.

priitdple sU)>1e plac« of titc fuTci^ anil iaianti (railo of tli« counir}-. anSI
as ()m:iil«Uy tltc rStluMC nutl moiit |)<i|iutou!i Ittwn, caniiat fail to be cotiaiileiciiJ
the r««l c&pital of tfa« couutrv. Tim uD«xai»pled npiditj? of it* growtll!
ia a very necurate standard w^oicW to »tifflst« th» ^n«nJ (tcv«la}>m«nt|
o£ Hunnry, far tlic increase of population, of industry, nnd of ;rtDerii! cul- '
turo aod lU'tirity thri>u);houl Hungnry. muit nntiiralty iuniiift-!it lhemselv«a <
moft forcibly in the c(ntr« of th«ir action, from wtich then is of comw •■ |
le-action on tbe surrouDtiing country.

Buda-Pdtb has at preoeota hundred thousand itdtalntnntt, whilst thttj
numWr of hutidr«di it pouoascd a century af^ ia a matter of diapule. Tb«
IIuD^ariaiiH look wit3i pridu upoa thctr capital, and drcani that it inay be-
come oDce more the Rndcmcc of kin^ ; nay. th^ do not dream mcrelyi <
but they say and m&intaiii tliat it tniut be to. Tna town bMwmtis eroiy]
year more magnificent, more cultivnted, more abounding in th« moans ot
enjoymcuL Every year more and mure of ttie Magnate come from
Vienna to fix their rendeiico herv. " If intr sovvn-i^n WDiild hot come and
live amon;^ us," say th« Hungarians, " we would build him such a polaes
as be does not possess in Vienua."

TUG FAia AT PESTH.

As geognpluoiil centre of the ceimtry, Pfrtth is also the centre of
Ilunguiau trade. It has four ^roat markets or fairs, wKicfa bum tlMUf]
impoflauce, might be called tJte royal fairs of Huti^sry. The moab
ooniideorablo is that bcgiuiiiDj; at the end of Ati^^t, at whirli time all
the chanoels of coinmtuiicatiou z.k iu their best state, liie Danube frce^
the roads diy, and at this time it is that the great piirclia^«s are tnade
for the winter. As 1 fortunately nrrii'ed at this inleivxliii)^ moment I will
end«avuur to give some idea of the state of buttle and excitement tlMt
prevails during a scene which diflm from any thinj; of the kind rvn seen
among vs. Tlie principal places occupied by tlie fair nro— fine, the thr
nube Quay, on which is erected a row of shops, and alonff whi«h tlic vee-
seU lie i secondly, U)b Jews' quarter, where cvvrv corner swonns with RiKids.
and btiyen, tuti sellcra ; thirdly, the niarkcl -places in the interior of the
town, wluch ore covered with booths ; imd fourtlily, all the open ^paeea in
the Joseph's suburb.

The Daniilie Quay is very bnMul and a tiemiui mile long', haviuj; oa
the side 0|^>n>ite the river a row of tartdsutne houses, the f^nmnd (loom of
whieh only are used as shops. On the mominj^ of the fair it was filled
with tltousatids i>f biujr traders, and tlie river was crowded with vesacU of
all kinils includtu); steamers. TIiltc were vessels from Austria, or tha
hiwer DuiuIm', as far as Belgrade and Semlin, and from different jiarta of
the Theiss. To the head of each vessel was fastened *oin« article, audi
A lar^ pot, a wuie bottle, a chuir, a table, a broom, a wooden troagh, i
jpgantic f])oon, &'e. which of cunrse 1 took for a sample of the wares :
witliin, but which I found were intended to serve as sij^s orcofttsef ai
the only difference bcdnsi that iiulcad of a sigii-board mendv painted bjr
•Mue nide dauWr, the symbols of trude were nmresented tliuK bodily. The
largest and most aohd vess^s wen in tlie middle Danube, thi> portion ex-
tending (rem Pmbur;; to the cataracts below SL-nilin, anr called '' Trhf-
JoAaj/at," that is, complete or per&ct sliips. The}* carry from ten ihouiuid

to Iwdvs tbontftiid Mttrer^ at wheat. Tliev kIso go up llie Thvi<s as (vr
U SH^;«din, whrrc many of them ant Imilt. OthAn arc built at liliM-k on
tha Drarc, where is to l>e had tlic fine hard onk, xhc maleriaJ fron) Uiif ftin-cU
of Slaronia or Trauavlvaiiut, chiefly uitcd in their construe tioii. 'S\wy
freneroUy last, with rc]Mitrs, an much as five-and- twenty «r (tilrty yooiv, and
tii«Tc u every yoar oa vridciit iiiijiroveiiiMit iii their coiutructioQ. ficeidea
laige Trancia, there are othcrv of a Eniitllvr »ixi-, broiul and llot biult, which
cury furnitine and manufiwtured jfoodii lo Turkey. Amoiip the (ifniinnit
livinf; here J oflm noticed tlic terms "hflrd" and " toK' apjriied to various
kindi (if craft> and found ttukt they were ttiriuit lo distinguish the oak «cs-
ivis frnm Szegodin and Eszek. from tliipni made of deal wliich come from
BnTaria and Auctrio, and cspecia-Uy a vory ilifjhl kind of boat from Pauau.
Thuw Lktter do not in f^nnl n-tura up the Donubv, but arc sold as woodf
or K)ui«times repaired again and M-tit to fom« place fbrtltcT down. 1 could
not moke oat r«ry accurately thv tvUtiw ])roportiona of land and water
tmffio at Pestli) but I believe, that of tlic twoi the latter U at jireftcnt ia-
cmnng' much mon: rapidly. The grealer part of tlie aavi^tioii of tba
Duiubo, u I have slrvudy iiiKntioiiMl, ii in \\k hand* of tlip Ra^dniis.
Noar tbo Quay was tho pottery market, and ni>Ter in my life did I see to-
Celher ao many pots and paii.i and clay ve»cU of cvcr^- possible tnriety ; a
deaeripticn of Komo of tfa«m may perhaps nerve to illustrate loino [lointE of
Hunj*anon manners and tuMotat. Firit, til(^re wcro eiionnoiu pilc< of
eipinuc uni-ihaped vcsseU, used for keeping the lard !K> much employed in
nOBtdcMpinif. Then there were carthvn covcrvd pans, for roasting or
bakinf; rntat, and there were others called Amitkciftrr, that were pierced
throu}:h witli many holes, for the water to run off from tl>« NucIeU or
duniptingi, which the peasants arv wont to boil in them. Then there were
mighty \team of water- pitciiers of a niuet pt-enliar 8ha[ie, but ona in general
w»e here. These pitcher* have a narrow neck, containing a «ort of sieve
to prevent impurittet from paiaing into the. vewel. The hole, out "T which
tb« peopli* drink, ia in the kanciU, wlueh i* hollow, \nA throuf^h thix hollow
tiibe the riungarian sucks up th<> water, unA pmi^cfi th? while arrtiii^-
Dient aa calculated to keep hia liouor cool and ptirc ; but h'lw sucii a
pitcher U ever tn be clnju«d in*ide, in a niyjilrrv to me. There were
•Jflo many thouaanda of a sort of bottle called uftitlnra, in use ever^
irlMn in Hungary, among Ma|;yara, Gerninns, Wiilachiaas, and Slavo-
nians, to cany mtli them on a journey, or into the fiekla, when tliey htv
keapinj^ thoir flocks and hordii, or dniitff farming-work. The Ishuttora is
a round wooden vessel, of a corpulent shape, with a small narrow neck ;
it is generall Y turned out of one piece of wood, and haa a hole at tlic top
and aiiotlier at the bottom, ttie latter closed with a apigot, and decorated
with a rosette of coloured leather. It is also fumiiliM with thongs, by
which it can be hung round the neck, antl has (bur little feet mi ill tiro-
portioned to its portly dimensions, that it hardly stands steadier on them
than its owner does on his 1^^ when he li&s been too llre<iuent in \\\i an*
pKcationa to iL There is no Hungarian house that does not conlaia
tahtUUnas of all sixea, som« of them as big as a small cask. The Uun>
gwiao magnates are equatly enamoured of the tshut(o^^ and taka tliem
ynHk them on journeys, or nuiitin^-piirties, and all similar occasions, and
they are filled with every kiitd of li(]uid, from the wme of Tokay to tlie

* The Aiutrion swti is oqaol to II or a Winchester bosbeL

THK FAFB AT PEffTH.

clirtT or bnckiitti yrntet at the msrsh. la all tioags in wkidi tbe fna
of UM Bparic&ng goliU-U or tlu> jiivial bovl wiKild tw hiiud umin^ u«, th
of the tabuttors r«toiin<l in HmfttiT- llioAft v««mI( wrrv n^iufc' in th«
Millest tinea exactly ma tbev «ra noir, and thBre b liul«- doak that tho
nooudie Inlw* who waoderaa fint into Hungnry eniiw with tin; btbuttum
TOaai th(>ir npcltn.

Aimm^ the clav tmbdIb wui >!>■> ottc tiaed for baking a mt of paste,
the tarJtoaffti, an iDdispensiUp article iq tlie ttej^m of Flimg-arv. It it
flompoMd of tatad and soar miUc, wMch U eompletclj- dried and balced ovitf
tbe an, and then raUMd lo powtkr. la thi* ataU it can be kvpt gwxl a
wholfi Hummn'. nay, •omrtiiiiea two or three vam^ and ■■ a rcrj luelal '
anicln to fheplimd^ her^men, &nd others who lead a loneiv life, cspeoallj
ai tiivy nrv ajit tu lire far too moeli ou aiiiitiai tl>dd una fat. A gooi
faandftu of thi* figinacoowa {aepmmtion, thrown vrct tlivir dwh <-i' uatk,
tendi, it it *aid, to nrawrra uiam from a disosM- very nn-valeiit \m%,
called " uAmnor," uiif wtiitrb ii wppOMd to be oecasioDod hj eating t«o
mudi fleah-nw&t.

Tliii tiiulad^ it verj genenillj difTuwod in Iltuigaiy. At tbe iiii»n d
tiinl. I nuuli' nRrjuiufitanei! mth tho pottprv 1 ttitva d««pnb»d, 1 also Mw th* '
Btil iDstAncc of a man affljct4?d with tsAomor, Atx old I [ungariau was aittin|^
not iar (ifT. He was vanning and stretching hinuelf, and looked wretobedljr
ill. [ asked hint what was thn matter, and he auiwe-red in a vei^
tnolancliolv tone, " Ai, JeMU Maria.' mrffuSmortmrm." (Ah, JewM
Marin! I nnre caught n tahomor.'i In ita most common sense ilie word
notifies dkgust : but. as I say, it is also used lo denote a peculiar roalady,
KUpaaaeA Ut oriffitiate in the conramption (>f t<:io much anintnl food. Tm
jMtient n ofWn attacked by it Tcry suddenly. He experiences a f^BK^,
■trkneEti and feelioc' of rlig^ust, loses his appetite, is constandv yavnung^''
feels his limbs weiuc find his ba^k stitT. »nd on his skin tlicre appears
<]tuiDtity of |iirap!e» or U>il». Tin; pcopio will tell you that no phjsiciaa
and iti) nittdicini; can nfFnrd relief, but Ltinl the malady must take its oi*m
ooursR, wltieh .ilwBy« lasts three days at least, and this time, dm-in^ which
titoy ahatnin as much as possible from food, ii mostly vpeut iu yawluBj^
To Tub the biurk and limns in almost thrr only thing ihat afViinLi relicbJ
One peasant will even auk anrithrr to thiunp htm iikI kick him in tbaudt^or j
to pull his arms about viol&ntlv, and from thi* uiigenllo exercise they p«^
fnss to derive ^freat solace. Tbe German -Hungarians, I waa tulrl, were
not subject to lahoiaor, but the petty oountry itnbltw. who ^nerally feed
hSj^h and lend a xomewhat idle lifn, are subject to this vintati'tn e^mut af
tDtiL'h as the peasants. I was told of ooo of the^e little proiincial aristo-
crats, who was Tery often afflicted with tslinimu-, lutii trliosi' wife bved is
coiiittant dread of one of these uttiu'ks, as on all sui'h necasionji khe liad to
mitkc up her mind to three days of uDintorrupted ill-tiuniour ; bcaidea
which, she was certain of having her whole time oceupietl, during' thow
three days, in rubbing the baek and kncudiug tint sides of a eroas and
^Tumblinji' husband.

I'hc ]>eopU! who came with the j^ods I hare mentioned for sale, wore
moNtly Slaroniuns and Magyata ; but there were also many Gemuuis, oo-
loiiistx from the distant parts of Hungai^'. Tbe weekly prori^oit*
market of Peslli is almost entirely supplied hy <ircrmru>s, as there at*1
many German colonics in its immeiliate ncighbourhond : aJid these mea
are so di»gtiis('il in their Magyar costume — broad-brimmed li&ts, wide

pjuk at pusira.

211

Im am, nnd muEtaehes— Uut one doe* not iilw«w TMOf^du ihctn. Otw
of tlium, c^niiii;; from (liv BtK-oaj' fiorect, wliom I addnMrtl, Bn<l who bad
fcrou^t voiimM vpnciri) ivarc;, Kpoons, BboTfld, rakes, rain, &c., confimveil
to me the s&tisfaccnn- informntioa rMpeoting the nulcivBtinn of potalOG^
vbich I had coUeeM^ on the Neu<i«dler Lake. Tli« people w becoming
•rvr^-whcra leoooctfed to thrm, ftlthonf^li here, u elsewhere, tlicy wrni Kb
£nt r«cri<red mth Tehement dislike. He told me, as 1 had Itpen told aC
the XeusiedW L^ke, that thirlv, dav, twenty vean ago, the Ilunganana
■ttrilititeJ tfvny iniaguiahle miBcliief to pntatocA, »(;arv«ly ileciiiiii^ llieni
good enough rrea for pigs- At prmeiit, howervr, he added, they wen; railed
crerywlm? in tits Bacony eottnCiy.

One of tlte vaxmi abiadiuit artivlea ia the market, and ooe of gonuine
Hungarian inanufacuire, wa* Noap, iif wUrh die quantitiei were tndjr aa-
tanishinf;. Thu in all niiidn on tiw Htifigarinn MCjijie-K, prinripolly on thti
Tbew, und in Debrotnn and 8sef;wli&. The b««t has much the appear-
•aee of Limburg dievfle^ and cnmei from Debretain, wliero there are no
fi>«er ihao a hundnd n»-boiliini. liiere aUo are made the true Huii-
gkrian b4taoco^pM ; and, aerordincr to reeent iilntutica] tnbliiii, cloran
millioiu of tfaem are manufactured every year, whii-h would ^vo one for
.«m]r BikD, woouii, and ch3d in the IdDgdom. In geiiet^whaCerer ■■
TCgwded aa paeidiBrty HuBf^aran, » to be found about Debretaa — (eg
TnttinrT. the finot and lar^it molons. Tli« cnlturc of thU fruit, as wcH
U the taate for it, howercr. has prohnbly hem brought (riini the eounUies
about the Illacb and Caspian Seat, the native land of all cucurbitaoeous
planla. Th« unud plan of eatinr raelont li«rc, b to take one wliole on
(Nie'a plate, and Moop it nut wiui a Bponn, irntead of cutting it in ulirea,
and this althouf^h thejr af« f>nnerallj rny Urge. A [iriie melon I uw
exhibited hy the Agncultund Societv, weighed sisly pounds ; and a llnn-
^^arian from Debrctoa told me that m baa cotuitrv tfaej- soutptimea mached
the weigrht of on* hundred poiindi, and romained Mweet, juiej-, and taMfy-
flnvouitil. The poardf. nlao, grow to m inmnwe nna, ona of them often
wet^hinK u much aa a hundred-wngfat, and oecasionaUy eran twice aa mnch.
Tlie cofumoa people eat tiiem eul in iilirra, and mnsLed like rheHtiuts.

The (air at P««h in not onlj* impnrtint to the diflV-rwit \*iitn of Hun-
ffary, as gmag on opportmity for the interchange of comrooditiei amouET
Uienuelra, hut ako to the neigbfaourin^ prorinces of Tkirkey in the touth,
•nd of Uennaiiy »»d Puland on the Bortli. Hungary ia rich in tlir mw |iro-
doctiooa of oatorr, and the Oonaau pnmDcea. aa well ns A»atns, Mora-
na» SUona, and the weetem port of Galieia, haTe surmuDded this land nf
TEW pmdtiee with a thaia nf inductrinl Cotnu, busied in the nianuractuio
of leather, wool, eotton, and silk. 1^ prineipal nrticlcii which thcycomD
to look ftir at pEsth are wool, tohHCeo, cotton, skint, com, wax, wine, and
'Others of lem itnportaiMe. The penou prinotpaDy engaged in Pe«tli, aa
■gent* from these pnwvinee*, nnt the Jews ; and uie vrenter part of the
InnMn b tbersfiira carried ou in the Jews' (jnarter, which is p«rhap!i thu
faviait seem in the whole fair. The Fkins an broaght tlutlicr in great
waggon^ drawn hv four, m, or eight hof i ea, near whieh sereral foak
•re often seen trotttnt: ; whilst behind comr* » rvverve team, citW Sat
rvlief or be occasional sale, to the inner conrt* of the Im>u*«, wfane the
I ire unpacked, is a -wene of liiter and dirt, and utiriMir and eonfuiion,
ChU MDMt b« desciibcd, but which may be ooneeirea, if we jcflcct, that

F 8

212 TOE FAIR AT PE5TU.

tmnn^r tlio cVtef srtieles liarniiMd for nra titnkinf* bidea aud be(I-re«thers>
and tiint the bargainer! are Slavoniuti and Folbh Jcirf.

On tli« fini Jay of the fair, which wbj SuaiAy the 20tli of August, I
nt out to toe tho fair in eAmpany viUi a Babemisn nuinufiicturer, an ex"
client guida : for what the ui^u>h an in Europe, that are the BobunuaiK
in tlm Auatrian doiDiaioiiJ, tho soul of vrirry industnal enterprise, and
thn first tu tppty iu>d brinj^ iuto use all n«w inventioui. He jinused luueh,
•a wo wtnt alonfr, tho indiutry of his native country, and toutrasted
itmngly the rou^^h etaUt of crcry thiu^^ irv raw with wh&t, it. wnold irnn
bo«fi ill Itoh«inia. In sam« patta of the city n)iic)i we |ia«<»pd throu^,
eonto houMs that had been tnrowti down hr the inuudation, (till lay in
ruius, in other* pretty Uttlfl row* of new ohm Ii;k1 bttii buUt in tlieir plac«s
oil high dikes. Croswug tJm feather* market, wlicrc fcftth«^r» were flying
about in nil din'tticn^ mid whii^h was covered nil uv^rr with htijje feaUiar-
bcdn, w« t.-utvred a itrt'ct wh«re the diut wad thick enough to hjd« the
afti^nii>i)n nm. Ahaiidouiiig (nirwlv«g uiiiv>i*tinffly to the [ireMiin! of tha
iiia^e<., we were piish<Ml in niiil pushed OTit psiU'tly fu we wished to b«.
ITie (rr«4l stream of human onimatioa waa at this time flowinjg out of the
town towards a large open space, covered with inen and animals of all na-
tions and race*— not Icks, certainly, tliim thirty thouuind uenifjus being
prceent. The ground witc vny uneven, and on one little hill, «onie hiin*
ured women had cstabliahod a market for etrga and hve fowU. Anothrr
liill waa covered with droves of piga ; ou the plain were vast troops of
hoMM, and the ralleys were Goverr«d with thenp. In soiiio ploeM wi^re long
rows of linrn men'hantf frvin ^slavonia, and ou a glany dectirity, a show-
nun haJ sec up a, llag and a barrel -organ, and was explaining in the llun-
garinii language, to the by^tandem, four jia.iit1oil representations nf thefon
last tragical p<:rio(iU of the life of the Emperor Xapoleoit. It i> no tnfliojr
lenimciny to the giratiicsH of this mno, that nt this diftaiiccoi' time and
place, he should be thought the cnly one whose ti'agicol moments were
worthy of att(*nlion. At ihp entrane* of tho mnrtict was planted a cohort
of dc&lcrs in Paprika, who had eneks full of thi» rrd pepper, so violently
pungent, that a little on the jKiiiit at a knife wai enough, to oiir tnstc, to
Npoil a dish, hut of wtuch airtoni«hing tjuuntiticit are vaten by the natives.
In the hoteU. all sort* of Paprika dishes ore brought— Paprika beuf, P«-
prika bacon. Paprika fish, &c; — but nmong the conjmon people thic Pjiprikft
IS 6i> universally understood, that it is seldom mentioned. One might tliijilc
thikt ev«ry thing in Hungary grew seasoned with Paprika, bread being the
' only cxneption.

Thin plant ic I believe, the m\tne as that called among us, Turkish or
Indian pepper(Ca/M«(wniTnMUMnt); the kernel and tho bufk being ground
up together for Piprilu, both coutoiuing t-ijually tho fiery pungent quality.

The Storaks arc the principal dealers in linen, whieh tlioy manufaeture
theiiiH'lvcj'inllie tiorth-weftXTu jarts of llungari,'. bordering on .Silwift and
Moravia, and this bmjicb of industry ba:« spread tlieuco into other countries.
As liie Slovaks are the greatest manuracturen, the Hungarians are chiefly
oecupiinl in tho breeding of cattle and borws ; mill in the cnergj- witt
which they devote the rnspl Yes to the latter, it would >eem as if they had
not quite forgotten tlio ancient mode of life of their forc£athers on tlie
Asiatic iiteppea.

1 hiul opportunities enough to admire their hortcmaiuluf, in the feati

THE FAIB AT PESTH. JW

hilntcd bjr those «1io were showing' off tbe uptbilitiM of their seTeral
steeds, witb a. view to atlr&ct porchuen. One dealer, to wbooi it wu
flbjedcd that hi.t Itorso wai not quick eona^h in taming, iiMuIc tt row CO
iu )ui>J Ir^, trnd pirouette thn-o ttmra r\iTiiii»g.

Sciiiiu aiitii|uariant have been of opiiiioti tiist llie preseat Iliiuj^ariaiui
aiiiil tliL> ajidciit Poithians were the same |MK>ple. and, in fact, tbi; aceountj
civeo of the Parthiani, by tb« Hoiuanis 'will almoit aUav) apply t(> both.
Thfl Poles also, thoueh of an ccitirtly KC|iaraU> nve, arc in tliis rrtpcct
striluQgly timilar to tD«m, and Eum[)o has ivroivod from these two nations
two most important branches of her cavalry, the ht^sstiM and the luncers.
It appears to ma remarkahlo t)ii\t tlie Tartara, Tolifs, aiid )Iitiignniin.s all
nicfa excatlent hommon, should so iteidom have imHiurc't (limini^itihed
fta&dtaU in the art of horsemanship i but it wniiJd s^cm thfti the bolter
a people in general ride, the fewer mere show riden are to be found among
ebem. On thv othor liniid, eiai^lly (hiutf- iiaticms which maltn tbe wont
homcnien produca th* gtvatfM, niiiiiiH>r of tb(-»i' oxhibitOK, naiitnlv, tlio
Dvlfpans. tlic French, and tlie Italians. '11k lialimi^ indeed, who have
gircn a immc (Francoiu) in the most resowncd of the horaenuwsbip raoi^
are deddeiJly the wone hnntRineii in Europe. Thus it has been remarked
that there are muiical satious who hav« no compofen. and poetical nations
vithuut 'writcni. while those who have moat of what ix colled '* btmhommie^'
have often the least of renl and triio nrtno.

A« we passed thmuj^h the fiiir we remarked among the ^{oies, bjr whom
it was Uimti^d, a p<ur coming towards iu — a toll yowstg nan and a middle
■gi^d woman— both as black as Africa. The wonuw wai lumentiug and
giMticulating violentlv. Wa accosted lu>r to know what nan the iiiaitvr.
8hn to!d ti«, immediate] V, that the object of her digpteiuiire was her hus-
band, a hWkticad and a sfH-ndthiit^, and a(fOod-for-nothiiir fellow, and
ttit'reupon site bej^u tn cry iiioct bitti>rly, adding, that he had gone, with-
out her knowWj^, and hod houg-ht himtolf a haadkerebief, for which ho
had given twenty kreutten. The handkenJuef, nwrouTcr, was not uvcd
• good one : the eolour* were not fast : and m saying, she leaped upon his
neck and matehiHl off thflinndkt'rchiof.Rhowiiijj.whOTt his shirt wna stained
bluv. 'i'hu f^my took all this very quietly, and laughed wlicu slic snatched
ftway his liandkerrhief, and afterwards, without our asking for thirm, pro-
duced his papers, hu paiutports, and so forth, which he kept carefully
pwaerr c d in a bundle of nit^ The poaaassion of these certificates of legi-
ttmadon oFlcn saves the gipsy from much petty tyranny, sin<^*, if he hiipp«>n
to be without them, every one is apt ta tnink himsi-U' aiitboritvd li> ti«at
him in the most anmnoan manner.

It WW at this Eur that I first hi^anl the rcli'hrated Hiin^rian gipsy
nuuie, in a bu;gv daneing^honth. wheni ttrjtvnrr», (liners, and th^a dan-
isemU were going on the whole day. TIte compsny was whr>lly conipoied
of peasants ; aud the iinrrowneM of tho spaoe tn nliich they moved, waa
eomp«nsalHl ainjdy by tlu-ir uiatotu endeavour* to make the most of it.
Ttwy lifleil np, swung round, Itt go, and caught np again, their lair ladies,
in a most vigorous and piaisewoitby etvle ; and the noi»e of eUiuping
I'Cqtudled that of a hiuidren thn'^hiutr-ninrliines. The hmt waa ovcrpower-
iug, and tha dutt tutfocattng ; for, hccldos what was raised bv the toils of
tin dtocori, doada cane in at the open doors and windows, irom the fair
•alaid<^ where herds of Cftttle were moving iu all dire^jtioiu ; aud the sen*

914

TBE FAIR AT PESTH.

taiaout OMiMoaed by bw and diut tnm not iliminiRbed by the thngonr
tit tile gipvy niinicUju, «ntli tbvir trumpeu aod c^nnb*!*-

ThrmiKbout IIaa|pry the rausmm an afauM* oeluBTcly cither Gcr-
maiu ur gipsies; as the ilungsfuM ihemMltra* have in f^eiKm] little tute
or uleot for mttne. I do not moan that thc^ arc akolutelj biaensble to
haniifmiotti MuiuU, for wbaC ueople crer iraa? but I tpemk only of the
QOnpantiva BoanptibiKt/, auu ur ib«ir pradJol mnncal talentt. The
Geraian muuriani of Hniinry hold, of coune, the hif;best rank, and an
sm4 with iu tliv pcindiMl ueatres and chun:bc*, at the lalb of the tijrper
daiaes,, and iu the finUnte boteb ; but the npneti till the (owcr epprnM-
Buntt, sDch as tfaoae in the miall theetreo, dod in the imalW towaa tbojr
•n th« aoU profiwtcn of th< art Th^ Gennuu m Mfkecal play none has
Genoao, Frencli, or ItaUao miuic : but the Kipaiei me toua nattonal eout-
■oikkM of Hiugu7, whkb biealbe a peculiar spniU. and lie dutiaguubed
by eertais original tmnt and phnwa, which L never remenhor tn hara
Mard aajarhcre eiae, 'I'hvtv is. Iioircvcr, a slrnng miM i M a n ice t>ctvc«ft
all theae Kungariaii gipay iii«luclie«, and it is ean* far any oue who lias
heard oiie of them, to recognise othen. Among ihe Tatan, aUo, at Uatc
•mooz- those of the Ciimea, the gipvea are the unial monoaiui I had
often oeanl tliein there, but could not rocolleci enough of Uieir music to
IcDOw wlwthcr it nseBiblod what I hoard in Uongaty.

I could catily undentand the partiality m an ifaeted by (h« people jTwe-
telly fur thia mutde, for there is «Knethin|> in its character bo wild and ini-
pasBiutiwl— ir. has tones of twh deep BsdaiiiJioly, aacfa heail-pii^rciiig pneT.
and wild despair, that one i« invi^litntimly' carried away hy it ; nnd al-
thougl), on the whole, the perfomiiauco of the j^peies a rude aiid wild,
noany of them manifest so much of leai muncat lospiratton, as may weD
make amend* for their dcficionciM in sctentitiG culture. There are seveTal
gipsy baud* which uro cclohnit«d thnfUjfhout Hunf^r^-. and toine cf the
patrurtic joaniEils vvl'D cite with rapture aonu^ perfonnt'rs of tlic huit cen-
Oary. AiiMtdotes are aUo often aeeii iu thHe ])apera teDding to exalt tlies*
eimy favooriu« abov« their niorv r«wwH*d bi^lhwu of the dirino art.
TnuAi for inetaace, wo ar« (old of wiac pieces nf beethuvcti having been
parformed on a certain occuiioii, atul recetrMi nith iuimanite uipUois^
wbeo eoaie gipsy inuudaiiB entering, and ptayiujif ttimt rimpla ** Hagyav
Motaf," 6k whole oamnbly was siJcnt, ana melted into teara. Ercn th*
German performers iire Bonietlinei cumpelled lo leani »«ine of these " Ha^
jarNetas," with which iIil-v will ofteit tiindii(Ii>,iti order la leaveafoTOUt^
able in^iessioa on the miotL- of thc^ir oudicucc, aoid " Effif Magyar S^'ota^
(Now play us soineUiiti;;^ Hungarian j, is a coninmn re<]ue.<tt at the close <rf
more elaborate Ibreign compoiitiaDs. Theru \a, hnwrrer. inui^h monotony
ia this, as in all other national mu*ic, uid the mon.' cultivated eren of
ttative auditom are glad, aftr^ a while, to retuni to the greater variety and
ujtellectual riclimss of our German comjiosilions.

After I had refreshed myself hy a bath uid a nuppcr at our hotel, the
OOndceceudiug " t^wu of Etit^land," 1 set out npiin for a lonely walk
^ong the Ouiiube Quay, as well to mjoy the coolnt^s of the dear moon-
lit rirwr, as out of curiosity, to discover how some of the multitudes whnnt
] bad seen at the fair, were UWy to be lodged. I touiid the whole straud vo-
vend with sleepers of oU age* and both sexes, wra{>)iediii hlonketi, mantlee,
or only ia mat^ ttrctcfaod on the grouitd beside tlieir wares. Mint of thpiu

THE CO!RUtGaATTO!r OP MOBLXS AT TfXm,

S15

fcaeamtd to be enjoying & Maad and icTrcsliuig «lc«!|>. Only a fow of tha

I hioTC opuJrrit iir nuue e&iniB«ta< hmA let down a tent over tbeir alcepui^

dIm-ix. iitiil Uy iA-itIi tlwir goods nndpr iu protecting abetter. Tboae win

Md bargp^ or wbo couM f^ta place in one, lay ornt ■iMpoojr about tlMm,

rHBMtin« eVTsnag tlu; wl)i>lv '«i:!wi, wlicra • fixe wu usuiJIy biimiug.

I alcpped ia and out, wlu-rvvtr I liked, among tbe rmumbeiit figum;

now and tliEii, one ironld raise his lieeul, stare at me Iut a momcuc, and

tboa let it £k]l again upon lus BbevpeUiu. Uerv uiJ tliefv werv ervufM

■till awnlie, aail occupied wiili cuiiverutiun, tiiiginj^, danciti^, anu pUv.

In the vicijiitv of tha now bridgw wut tmv purtv, mnre Dumemus anil aru-

1 IMlcd. than tlie mt, whoM ohanctor appeaxeu » little equivocaJ. Then

f V«M aonu tatny naaar Ma^ar^rls, perfanning a variety of gynnoatio

I ksd daneea, uot of tlic iiiiMt dimirouii cfaamvti'r, but oiiduubtadly

ScmctimM ana of tlicm would (p and rouae a tlMping; com-

l^paiiioo who was mpporad to poesces peculiar skill in a particular more-

Dt, and ahe irould juoap op quite willingly, nib her eyv$, and begin to

ice with tha utmoat good-faoinour.

A long flight of ttvyt laada down to the Danube fWxn the quay, and
en tbm were corered «t^ people^ Slovmlu and Mag^orB, souie klecp-
^1 Mine waluui;. (In the top mf tbe sbepa stood one of tli« (urmcr
fantatiug a bai^ipe in a very comic uaaiMrr witli hia mouth, and having
soooe article of clothiiifr tucked under liLi arm to repmmt tlto bog, bJoir-
ing out his checks, and bringing out in a. masturlji nuinner, tbe nasal
■ ofhisinstniment While he played hia imarinaijr pipe, he also danced
.ward^and fonrmrds on tlie little mam allnwca lnn^andllisalllaioBerTed
aceoinpaninH-nt to certain " pu txacntwl by Htme women, who rap-
vtcd hhn occasionally witli their Toacea. Tlwm could be no doubt of tne
rcomtry of theaetheatrKalaadcoaucbaniipo-pUyen; for betides the diSer-
•nn ot eoBtuRio, and Hit rircuitutauc« "I the bag})ipe being a SloraL, and
aoCnlUngyar inctnimrot, Uivrv is wmiuiltiog too stifT arMTterious in tli«
duraetcr cS the HungariaDs, lor tlteM UtvIv cshibiuoni, but tha Slovalia
•n in gmei^ a more gay, oonTersahle people, more giren to song and
4aim vtd poetiy, than tnoir ruder and more loaibre ISfafn'or neigfaboun;
At tha bottom of tho atepa on the »and«, wore a«etnbled a graup of
Ma^^iir?, a.ninn^ whom an old oian leaning on hia suiF, sent Ironi beneath
hia broad -brimtiiMl liat tb« melancholy founds of a popular natiuual in«-
ledy, b) which h» aucUcnee were profoundly attentive, and when all other
•onnde had gradually died swut, hi> low mournful tone? alone broke
tbe ailence of tbe wioe tranquil nver, and the twin citiea lay buried in sleepL

THE CONGftECATlOK OS SODLES AT PEtiTB.

TIhi province* or eirelet into whidi, Gma the aariiert timeo, Hm-
gary lias been divided, are called ComUatttt, or oonnUea, ov«r end) of
wluL-h i» placed, as chief officer, a Coinea, or count, who ia a Magnate
of tho empire and a peraen of great iniMMlaiMW, notwithstaiidJiig tlie nm-
plicity nf hie iiumc ; and who H aMUtca by two depulte*, or ^tee Comtt,
nnder whom again are placed many lubofdiiuiU) ofiioera,

Tho wholti divi^oa and orj^ianiiation of thaae countiM nawnUea ranch
tbat which was intjxiducvd by Charlemagne into Germany and Pranoe, and
to luderstnnd mora cieariy tJioM remote tiMow, we need only study the

Slff

THE CONGBECATION OP KOBLEfl AT PESTIT.

•xinting tlntt) of tlilii^ iii Hungsn-. I b«li«Te thst an exact compsrisan
of what wo haT« before our p_v« m thi« conntrv, wilh what we know of
the Carlown^ian institutioni, would tlirovr inueh Vig^it on botlu

Lik* the (n>utiU of Oiarlt^mngne, the Ilungarian Camrs kxk appointed
l^ th« kin;» for lifo. In Gfrmany tho»o (^(luiifcihipi soon becaino BMvdi-
tarvt and obtained piincclv and tvnitonal power. Jn IIuiiguT^, however,
up to the present time, only tweke ont of fift^ hare become hrreditiuj, »nd
CnaL not bv (gradual eiutoni but by direct roval ordinance. All otlier offi-
oen from tlie Vice Comw downward*, arc ctiBUged every tliree J"**'^ »n4
DOW elections miwlc hy the nobility of the county, Thi* iJiree y eani' |)eriod
of lervii^e, and ibe choice of new officers by the nobility, v%iA» aloo in other
oountriea otvaniMd on the bi^ of the feudal institutinr^.

The election takes plfici? in an avtcnibly of jill the nobility of the pro-
▼int'i', at which every prekte, every magnate, every uobleinaii, and some
frw unnoticed anil iiihigiiificant deputies of towns, are riititlwl to appear
ttiid vote. This acsentbly, whieli is vailed toj^cthcT for the choiev of
defititiui fur t)ie diet, and iil.''o n>tridarly four tiiiieit a year for the regula-
tion uf nmttort of police and ptiMIe ecM>tiOR]V, i> etilled a coti^ref^tioti,
tliouf^h, lu a Ilunjr«rion higtorical wrii*r hue oWerved, it might bo named
** Status praehici/p" since it stands in the Siune relation, and pcrfonns
the same otlice« for the county that the " Slattu nr^Mi," or Diet, does for
the whole kingdom.

The trionniaJ elections for tJio various county offices ore called '* Restor-
ations," and one hears continually tliat la this or that county, there is
joft now a " Kextoration " going on. Thwie Rc«tonitif>n», and tlie Con-
gngntiaiB, for the choice of the depiitios to the diet, arc tlii.- niuit animated
■nemUiM that Hungry has to show, and there take pince Uinsc vivacious
•eeDe*, sometiniea deieribed in our newspapeis, and wliicli bear some reseni>
blance t" thi.- Liiglinli vlecti'>ns for nicmbcn) of pnrliftTuciit. At the regular
■SSemhlitM i>f llu- principnl n<>blc>. rt'CiirrinK cverj* tlirce inontJis, things aro
coiiducteit ill n monj orderly maimor, partly Ixfamtc private iiit(>n«t« do
not enmft no mneh into play, and partly became the uiiedueated c\tt*» of
peo^int nobles da not attend them. At the elections these always take a
prominent part, for tlinugh they really care littln almut them, they an
puOieil forward and made cat's-pnws o[ by the ^cut nolilcs. I liuve neter
witnessed one of the elcctiniif, but 1 have often observed the afiahte coo-
deecensioit of the liiph official nenoiiages, when one of theae periods was
approach infr. With respect to dress, and dejMirttneTit, projmrty, (Hlucatioti,
and manner of life, these iwaxaiit nnbin arc not a hair's breadth abo^'c tha
COinumn jieiLtautry of Hun^iiury, niid their pride, presumption. rudeiie»g,
and incapability of tmprovoincnl. plncetheui far liolow that level; whiUt,
therefoni, the'iv priviie^s in the Cnngre^tioTW, place them on an cjualitjf
wth the prelates and luag'tiati;.'*, ami tlicir yes or no has e^^ual power, thoy
are the moat lUuigirroiu claw of the coniniunity in I lunj^iry, for they are
privilegod ill thoir stupidity and ignorance, — an empty, presuming, pulTed*
up Ochloeraey.

The !lun|:arian [latriots of the day, neverthHess, take a different view
of this matter, and aiserl that exactly tins cluss of poasant nobler, by their
natural and healthy common sMise, and their |Kiwer of ateady rvaiftanee,
fcavc often in momenta of daOKcr protcd the main support of tivedom and
the oonatitution, and have hindered many abuses in ea*M where the royal
prerogative has been ttrctchod too far, and whore the more powerful and

better bred magTiatcs have often been influenced or eomipted. If thit be
■n, it ii luuch ii> iw regretted that the Hungarian comtitution sliouid rett
en oobfUcr fouBdation than tliis ignorant prasant nobility. An enl^^iMiMd
middle dnas would fona a Inoi oquaJl/ firm, luid org fu more fiivotmbte
to tli» nienta.1 and pli^'sical progrcfs snd deT«]o]nnent of tlie couutiy.

Be thia u it may, it is rery curious to observe bow the manners of the
pjcat nobility towimls the little, become more and uion: utiiiaibU; luid gn-.
doui iM the day of rWlion a[>[innu-hta. Tbry drive tutu liitir villagers,
visit their coiiana and bTnthens. fw tliey call titeni, on tertng of the most
fiiendly equality, solicit tbeir "most sweet voice*," and gire no very deli-
cate hints of t)iu nbundance of good ihinga to be pnipured for thi^ir biiii-
aurts in the tovnaon the duvsof election. CarriiigM ara sent (o briti^
tne voters, hotues hind for tneir lodfpnf* find entertainment, and the day
before the |>ull the candidates drive round to all the public-houaes to lottt
up their coMKlitnenlx, tLiid nee if thev nre iia.ti<itiHl and in good-bumour.

Tho different niirttc* are uituailv (liKlin^ii.iliiw! I>y wearing red, wliite, or
bhic featlii^i'^ in tntir hats, and on tbc important dny tbey vie with each other
in eeriy rising, tor it is above all thing] of consHjuence to be the first to get

EDMuiiion of the cntiiity- house, where the ekvtioii tnke« pinee. If they
Bvc not drunk too much over night, tliey «!^n tilt the hall as citfly m
two o'clock in the nioming, and though they cannot exclude their rivaJs,
many of these haJls are bo small in proportion to the numbers of the no*
bility pf(^H.-nt, that a briitk active party has often entirely filled it, and
effpctuallv pnivcnted tlic friends of Uic rival eondidnte from getting near the
polling place. Wboenir is tlio nio«t f|uick in hi» movements, luiendid in
bis pramises, and profuse in his expenditure, genemlly wins tlie day, eo
that the coveted potte are often dearly purebued. Au eirctiou will cost
B« much M tNvftty tboisand or ttiirty thotisaiid florin* and ujtwanb, but
tlio pl«w ofn Vic* ComeH, by direct or indireet n>eth(Nl(, is |irntly sure to
bring in Again, tui much or more. Tito rwididate is proposed by the
" ObergetpoMtT or Comes, and kccejpted or refused by accuinndmi, Init
should it not be ennly determinable by this methotl, the votes ore counted.
On th« announcement of the nnmej each part)' wko their man, ral«e him
on the shoulderH of bis friend, and exclaim '' Vivai ! Vivat ! That's the
rif^t one— Wcllhave no other." The oppotite party of connedoits beat
to inndt him, these insults are again resented, and such tiimtdtueus seenea
take place, that the prelates nud orderly people in general ore glad to make
their escape. E^'en after his etection, indeed, the *' happy man" ii by no
means IHt to enjoy bis «ieee«s in (|uiet, for tlie coDgraiulatious and earesiea
of his adherents are often most iticonvvnifntiy uprvariou*.

1 attended many of the atting»of the Pr»th (_'oit forego tion. and was pr«<
Rent at their opening. In the antechamber »( the principal hall serersl
" HaiducW wcro walking up and d^^wn. They were toll, distinguished-
looking- people, drrsscd in the h.-iiiilMitne Himgnnan ewtiinir, and fully
armed. Several of theni are always appointed to attend tJio Coniitat. or
county-houso, and they am also placed at tlie head of the otdinary police
of the eounty. Tlicy allowed not only every uoblenuiD, but every de-
cently dremed person to mtrr tlic boll, and even ftrangen were admitted
to mingle freclv with the speaker*. There in indeed in eveiy Comitat
boasu a gallery for those who arc not Co tidiv a pert in Uie pniceediogv, but
DO oiw^ with the exception at women, and those who are s^bbily
dmed, is obliged to confine tumaalf to it.

S18

THE COSGRBOATlOIf 01' HOBL£8 AT PE8TH.

Tbc lull u &Utd up in a aunner wbJdi, tboagh oniplB^ m perfectly veD
ftilAptcd to th« pvipoMB it U iuUndcJ for, and deeonrtoJ witb fiiU-(eD|^
fnctum of th« deceawd polatiDM. 'Dktv m ibo one ntprewn tbig tfa*
mMtitig of cranued beatU »L i*an» in Its 14, b«ieath whick u m iuoi^
tioD tbat tin»dy »«ttn* to bclung to by-goati timc*^" Domila Gatlotvm
/eroaa uturpatiimi^tugme eoemUii Vmiiice* IHtriatit Ettnf* Fttiei
Jadere Jmteti."

'the hftU won b«^&ine filled with noUt*, y^^oag and old, oftenk sod M^
officials, nuitiy in nimfilu surtoute, but most in tba ^t"'*'** •^"'"* Ma-
turn, uid all uf counw anaciL Thu: coDTcnatiaa sod moTemcats of tlie
■mmhlj were pecf«cUy quiut, ami at Ivagtii iIm pnndtnt anUnd and che
ttttio); tru opeoed.

Tile Pruidentof the Coagrefsticn is the palatine of Eluugarv. who ii
•bo ax-officia^ Obmopann of the Pesth crocuitat. The archdukf, however,
liM not attendML tw •ittios* for tome time, but pcWbmu hU diUy by ■
deputy, or, as he li here called, ^' Admim^raior." Tliis adniinistntor. A
Magnate of Huugan'. now entered, ^reetins the aasembly with the nnU-
nary Uungarian lalntution, '* AlartatiM tsotffai/a," that is, " Your hainUe
SCT*ant," of which ouc wldom Imnn much man: than a hiMiDg ktuivA, and
tlien ttiolk his place at the end of a table occupying' the centre of the haU
with the " Vie^eapann," seereUirios, and other odicen, on each iide. The
other ngbles »t<KKl nnud uc walked up and duwu the tiaU. There were
inikcd a few hcuclics, but tlicy wrrv uMxttl/ used to Mand on. Ntmr the
pratdent lay a heajj of papers, diplomas of nobility, protocols, ami firiiited
pamphlet*) tlic lattvr ou (h« iiuliject of nuxtd mamag^es, eonceiTun^ which
a proposal waii about to bt' iiib«Iv ; and as thi- sulnect is jnM now esuiting;
much attentiini in Hungary, all handa wen inunediatitly rtnitcUMl out after
them. The iicetf^tpaitn could not reach to cive to every one, and whoa
the (>tt«itun! Iwcaino too ri'eal, he BeiMil u vrhnit; ItuodlR of tJitmi, and threw
thtiii over tliv lieads of lite crowtt into tlin tuiddle id' tliv liall, whvre thejr
were Inuf^tiiijrly cauf^ht by llio byiLUiirli^ni.

A* the dwcusnom were carried on in lluntfanan, I couM oot, nnfortv
Datelyi uidcrstaiid them, but I wai informed they relatMl to aome propOMla
ibat were to be made at the nest diet, relative to a certain govetiunentottonv
who had defrauded the treasoTy of fourteen thoonnd flofini, nod to the
neaiu of prcvenling Huch frivudn in futiirc, to the announcement of some
patents uf nubility granted by the king, and to the taxes nii buteher'a
meat, which in Hungurj- Ai'e of a^much conietjuenrttaa tlu brcndlaic wichns.

The diploma of nobility vtaa written in Latin, and nn» of cxtraordiniuy
length; containing all the long titltoi of the Kins of Uungary, und tho
Emperor of Austna. then tb« ordinary and extraor^oary lervices rendered
to tm «tatc by thu iodividitn,] to be ennobled, and then foUovcd the uiunea
of the archbishops, bishop*, prctules, ohtr^tapann, aud viet^xpann, with all
their titles, which aie put in ntrtly for the sake of onianu>Dt, and partlv,
u I iios told, bei;ausi> thtsto high and mighty pcnoiioges are cuiuidured IB
Kfm« racasurc, to guarantee the validity of ttie patent.

Any person who wished to s pealc, called attention by exclaiming, " lurtmf
kertm r that is, •" I bc^," luid then approached the president's Ubl^ oc
•QDwtimvs spoke over (he heads of thoso who were between. Ahiiott all
tim »|>«-akfr» appeared to me to be characterized by a manly and dignified
buaiiuf ; majiy spoke with great Huency, and some with wmit sccmsd llko

THE C0:?GKK&ATI03' OF ironLES AT T»ESTIT.

n»

iBpMnooed wad Bery elocjurucv, WlMiDtrcr any tlunp^ wk said that sttumi
{lOrticHlsrl^ to pleiM-. tbe ^Imr rvsonnded nith " f/yrn .' AVytM f*

X'valrat to oiir " Bravo !" or "'VirKt !" AnoUicr word wliich 1 heuj
9 r«DMtcd wu "Haytah! Ilatfunk T that \a "Iltv, IkkV bat
DOt tuea prensely iu the tense iti wlik'}i it i* emplnyinl in t)>e Envliih
|Mriiaincat, but mUwir in (hfr svon of "OrAetV or " iiileDoe !" uid mea
continuiU itijiinction« of " nlcfwe," dkl not s UitJe to inovMc Uw nuiae
always occaaitiiied in a Utmganan atvembly, by the iiKtving Aboet luul
chtler of mbn< and spiira. It ww lamrtiniei ixo^iOHiUa to bear ths
■peoktr for the Todf«r&tion« oi tltcM lorvrs of order.

Tile b««t Bad most eloquc-ut tpcokcx aiiMiDg ihcnt was said in be the
noUc dtputy, KoHiii, who acc^ajred «o much fanw at the last dieL B*
was. 31 must 1>« known to a large portion of my Madtra, impriaoiwd for a
coDinJiTmbIc time, for hating: made public lome discuHJoiM of the diet, ia
now editor of the most pojiular Iliinj^nan journal, tb* ■' Pesli /lirinp,"
which vreiQ forbidden to be nrict^d, by distributiuf* a coiuidiTable num-
ber of ti)uuii3cri[it co])i*». He waa mjjwnucntly libcniU-d, and it now
tfw noal feartcsii and untiling ndToi^-atv uf all ihai tends to tba amafioriitioa
and advancement of his couDtry, tlio boldest ajid most nnipariog denottmec
of the erron and abuses in the conmtuHon and ffovcmm«Dt. He baa
made it liia cvjiccial iNiri: to keep guard orcr what ho coasiden tin: weak
■ide of hits aiuiitryiiioii — iiniiK-ly, thr liiibility of the judge* and other
offioon to Gonwition and irrofniliu* itifluoDcof, and nvr*r fall* to dicrover
and «mo*e olleneea of thu ocacriptiaa. Under tlieao circumstaiicca it
cannot DO but Mr. von Kossut should burp many enemies, but he counts
a (tr greater number of friends, the wlioht publio of Hunf^ury be'tau on lus
fidci, ntul lie u the faronrite and th<' polttienl hero of the day. Ilia Uir^
lap is tlic oracle on all oocaaions. and during; my stay iu Penh, whenerer
any public matter vraa disoiused I coDtiuuaUy hnud the eager inquiry :^
" What doea Koesut ay of it C"

I iodccd nith much ijttert-nt at thia tnsn, on whom the eyva of all HoU-
gaiy may be said to be fixed. He is of middle tiic, and very a^caUa
a atcr ior ; his feature* are regular aud decidedly handaonie, but ftrai^j
matked aad mauly. ile in lu tlie prijue uf life, with nither i«dundai4
hainuid whi.iVrni, btit a mild and modest eipression of countettaaee. He
was rutlier pole whim I snw him, and lits fouturM wore an air uf eameat'
seae, sLichtly tinged by n>claaofaoly, though light«i up by luj fis* tUeKtw
eyes. He «)olie fin- full half an hour, withouc a moRMml'a besitatiant and
his mode of delivery- appeared to mo extremely agreeable. Ilii vuice !•
as fine as might b« expected from m> handjtome a perton, and tlie unioda
of the Hungarian language, powerful ontl energetic, fecmcd, from hii lips, I
might alnwat ay, warlike, althoogb they came hard and harsh from tlie
moutli of an uncultivatod speaker. The "Ktyenl Efyen .'" freijuentlj
inteiTupled him, and the " Ilayunk /" was tearoely heard ouee, for every
one was attentive and lilent of hia owo accord.

National pride. oimI the tiery leal of patriotiam in Hungary, tend mueli,
1 believe, to the itaproveinenl <if orat«ry, and we Germane miglit take
nany a leaHW iu llicse tilings frum our Magvar soigfaboBn. I do not.
bow nv er, mean to convey an impretdon that all the neoilien of the Pettb
eongregation were oralon ; many reiruuned mule the wfiolo tinui of tba
ailting, ood others walked up and down, wilh their plumed Kolpnkx in
their liauds apprjring thiefly intent on tlie display (u ifacir eWgaot cos-

THE DBIDOB AT PESTH.

tume. On« SA nothing bnt twirl ibnut lti« rin^, tati anotlmr devoted
lumiclf to tbe unoManjp bxuiliine of hja hat, oiid from toftaj no mouaia
vera beatd but &ii oocacioii&l " EhfrH /" ar " Ha^nk !"

The office of tlio viovgcMpAiin it itnmellimfr liko that of a tpcoker in ths
Eoslidi poriiaucDt, m h« calU to ordor tliow who require lu« intciferoncc^
Bod, in au>r»f cnntumar^', boa the powM-to ioHict pecuniary fines, or errn
to exclude tlio ditnrderiy uersoii from the hall. Among the anomalies whieh
He emr^'hcre dUcovcnble in th« Hiin|;«riAn jioliticnl edifice, is alon iht« j
tlist if tnc oHvudiM- ran; makf liia esnipc fnim tbu hall bi-rnn.* tlio rioo-
geapann has had time touttpr the noraa— "For this oflvnce I i;entence
yott to a fine of twenty-live florins," he oieapeg also tho punishment,
should tiiv Ilwduck, huwevi-r, ut » »iKi> from the vic«gv9|iaiiii, placu Itim-
M-tf hi-fori' tlio Aociv, tliv otTeniV'r mtut Triiiaiti ami \^y; iind if hi" hara
not M muoh tnoiioy, nnd that it is noceissar^' to senA tin ofBocr borne with
him, h« must pay double.

I was told tliat one of iJic town defxiLies would very soon find himself
subjected to tliiit finc^ if he jire^itmed too fnr in his ivtiiarlui on aiiy privi-
lotfc of th* nohility. "for we deputies of citie*," «aiH ono of them to me^
"nave a seat bat no lote it these congregations." Upon this topic we
were soon enf^ajccd in a wnmi dUcuuion, in the coune of which we found
meana to withdraw from tho hiJl.

TnK BltlDCE AT PBSTH.

I know of no bridfje concemioK wliirli »o much hai Iwen in modem
timi>>i siiid and wrillcn n*i tli»» now nun iitiw biiildine^ oi'or the nantibe
between Pe6th and Buda, and lliore aie cerlaialy few worlu of ttiis kind
whose execution has been o[ipo»e<I liy so many oh^tacle-i poliiical and
physieal, Thi* truly gifi^niic work iii doiiervwlly rc|^Rli'd with pride hy
the Elunniriani, and i», aftor the bridge of Tnyau at Owova, tiic only
cons trurt ion of the kind, the only permanrnt bridp;, to which the middle and
lower Damihe haiip Wen siibje(?ted. With the exception of the Kuasian
(ivM«, tho Danube is one of tho poorest nvnn in this respect in all Europe,
for whilst the little ThamtM ooiinto ali»o»t tidy briJp.-s, the mi^nW^
Danube from I-Tlm cannot iiiimWr a dotpn. The p.ilraordlnarv hreadtn
of the stream, the rapidity of iU eum-nt, iti) irrpgular course, and tho
gTfcat inuadftlions to whi<'h it k liaWe, have Iwen the d lief physical im-
pediments to the erection of a [>ermanent bridge, hut norat' thing «Ifo must
De attributed to the want nf energy and activity in thd j>eople inhabiting
iti banliJ.

BctncL'n Pesth and Ofen (Buda) the Danube is about 1B0() feet hmad,
•nd in early times when there wat leu Inti-roourM! hetweeu \\w. two citiei^
the want of a bridge may have been less fc!t, Sorap barges tied together
with ropM aiuwcrvd the purpose until iicvciity-JiTc yean :^, when aboat
fifty pontoons werr subsl-itittril, and thnc. diminished to fortv-two, wore
moved to tlwir present iHuitioi] by tho Emperor Joteph. Thit con-
trivance, hoiTCVcr, id very insufficient to thepn-Mnt n-nnt* of the inhabt-
lanta, and in winter it is nf no use nt all. ppjnt Di-crinher to March tc is
laid Mldn, and the OommouicatioTi iHitweon the towns wholly carried nn
Itj boaCs. This b occa^ionallv by no mcfinn wife, and th^r*- occur days,
mm tiine to Umc^ when the Iniu cities are wholly cut off from each other.

THE BRIDGE AT PESTH. SSI

Tht) bridge in, iMidee, mitoli too nanrow for the puM0« of great hcnk of
cMtlv. Ivge heavy waggoTiB iw bodies of troops, niid on somii ot* th«ae
occasioni — th« kttcr for inftaiiro — tlio hri<ig9 » for the time rlo«ed af^ninrt
oUttrr poMeogers. In mimmer when tlie vnter ia veiv \ow, tht bridge
sialis »oinucli to tlie iiiitlil]i;, tluit hnrtes are expoMa to the Ubonr of
toilinc up ft woodeu liii), xnd it liiu itonietiiiiis h&ppcood tbftt waggons
hivc> brofcen throiijjh uid fiUlm into the rirer.

These evils nod incnDvooicnccfl hod oft^n. hccD mode the subject of dj^
«uinon, more isspeciaUy about fourteen or fiflcen yetu* uffo; iununienbto
uticlec hod appealed in Uie newapapan, and debate* lind talc^n plnre in
tfae diet ; but tbo matter did not bcjefiii to wear a hopeful aspect till the
sealous, patriotic, aud iailiientia] Count Szcchcnyi placed himself at the
liead of the undertaking, and made a jounicy to England tor the purpoas
of coit*uIting the ablest orcliit^ctf. Au otlicial report waa tlicti pub*
lulled, and at length, al^r many and viiilciit discuuioni in tbc diet, it
was dHercninGd that the work should bo begun.

It id hardly possible for u» (o iiiiu|^ue how tbe mere building of n liog'lo
bridgr ln'tweeii two towiid, nlxiuld Ite ft matter of audi lioleiit iiilvrcst tO
ihv H')i»lv kin^lom. m U> givo rite to todioualy pmtracted dvbat«s in the
evnerai diet, but tliis nay be exptninod, partly by reference to the real
uuportaace of tlie undeitiuiiiig to the whole country, aud ita great cuft*
wid iiartly by certAiii eiisling political etila.

Tfio iitiporUuice of the uudcruikin^ ii evident, not only for the two citioi
immediately coaccracd, but for nil liunp^ofy. unce, for the cx-tcnt of a hun-
dred German miles (more thun four hundred and Hfcy English ) chf^rc is not
a oingle ituiadioff bridge : those of Koinom and Pet«rn'ardi'in being bridges
ofboat«, (Lod tnoae at Presburi* and Gratit Hying bridge* ( anofat tha«e
periods when the Dunuitu is full of ict-, or the countries bordering on it
innadatml. so as to rvndpr llie ]ia.wiif!-i^ illilicuU or cvm impossible, the
whole kingdom ia rent into two parts, cut. oil' from all intercourse with
eftch otiier. The whole kiugdom is, tliervfore, itit<>re«ted, tluit, fumewlicie
or other, there sboulil b<- a certiuiity of uitoniutiicruunn, luid tlu« is «sp^
uially desimblo in tliis heart of the comitry, this central artery through
wfaioh pours the great tide of It* comnaerciai life.

Tlio expense of the erection is undoubtedly a ilifficiilty, for it t* not cukv
to mine such a win mm i!JOO,000 sterling, in a country i»]iii>ti thinigii ritxi
IB prodooe is so poor in money a* Hungary. It has been aocordioffly
found neceMaty to entrust the pecuniary part of the biuiness to a Vieims
-ciqntsUat> the wealthy hauker Sina. Many over-iealous patriots have, in-
dMd, uttered grievous outcrien ou this octuuioii. '*Ohnearctu, why did
they not rather moke a subscrip^on tlimugh the whole country ? Tlic sum
might have been easily raised ; I myself would have gladly giTcn d hun-
dred dorini, and 1 know many who would have given more, rather
tfattn bare tlte whole country made tributary to a lorcigncr." It haf
been agreed, if Baron Sina adrancca tlic ntouey for the bridge, lie shall
be allowed to erect on it a toll, for tin* sjMce of eightyfive %-ears.

It is poMibte that the p^lriotic plan might ha.re succeeded, but whoever
knows now little diMpiMuule capital there is in Hungary, aiid how ycrjr
difficult these rosy things arc sometimM found to be wlieii init to tlie
test of experience, will not bo disjtoKetl In regard with a jmloug eye a
plui by whidi so greet a benefit has beea accnivd to tin country.

tii THE BRTIK^E AT TT-STn.

Anodwr iHAGraltjr by wfaidi ilic mtiiect of this bridge wu boaglit be-
£m the diet, coosuted ia ««rtato privil^^e of the nobility wbich it woold
hn neowatgy for thcta to rtofruncc. Tbc wLulc bodv of Hunirariaa
lH>bleat namely, iwrv lii-cn hitkerto enUllMl t<> fnaa i-itlti^r on foot or linnv-
bwilc over tha Poutonn briJfj^, without paying tlio tcdl donModed nf nil im-
uivilfrgvd fuamgtm, lUron Siia prot(«t«d aguiut snyaDc)) enMnptiooi
ui tlm ca^ of the new bridge, and refuited to advance ttie aum requiredy
iinl*wi all [wvKMM wbatevnr wvn >uhjfici to the toll. Tlw aid pnvileg«,
bawevcr, t« «o intinuitrtly cnnnrrtitd witb tbnt of nnMitig fro* cnrar ail riMudt,
Iridgca, and birbwoiy* of tbo Idn^om. nnd tiadin^, " I am a nobleotait,'*
aoeepted at alTtuit^kei instead of a ccrtaio amount of kreutzara, diat
thaprivUwedoidendfead of all things tin ai tack upon thiirif^t (or wrong)
■■ CM ItntDreM^ in tbnr gruid ariitoi-ratic drcumvallatioD. Hony of thorn,
-tttrafbfVt ToBned loDf ud obttiaateiy to make tbis conocuion ; but thotr
WMitapcB «u St last o w irp o warcd by the exertions of mor* liberal men.
Bad the undertaking &irly commenced, fbe first shot hai been fired,
iberefbrei but it will be lon^ yet beforv tin- biriu-li in ^ttTiciuntly wtdenedi
For my 0«it ]>art I own I could out witne<c« witliont diDgfust tin exerciM of
duB petty but insolent privile^ at the old Pootoom bridge. Let the reader
"^g*"" a row of muatachdd fitllowit, moal of them (alu) speaking Ger-
man, opening tlieir luurier not only to every uoble, but, ncctnding' to ft
euttoiii whiub hiu Klipped in, to every well-dr awo d num. and Msidng dj tha
arm, *nd Twl«ly demnnding the toll of every poor working mcchanie, erety
Jew or {teiuaiit boy thnt pa-tned. The*e bndge-guarda, by long practice
of their cmile, have snjuirwl mii^h n ljrix*«yed dcxtitrity, that even am
Snadaiyt and bolidayf, when the mechAnic is ofcen v <-li^;:^oiiUv droMed aa
diD noble, they are never deceived, lliey know by dgfat almost aU th*
inbabitanti of ]*etth and Budi, aa well aa their children and the inmatM
ot their houu-^ and okn tell in a tnoment who docc, and who doe* not be-
long to the privilc^-d ordcni. The rich Jew* f^ncrolly pay a certaia sun
yearly to avoid tlic annnjTiDcc of being stopped whenever umt pass, and I
oave btien informed, that, curiously enough, t)ie gipaiea enjoy the Kune
«Eemplion aa the nobIe». " Let eirtrtmet »t toucAenl," or they an> per-
hape regarded an mch eumpK'ie nuUilies in Miciety, rbat they arc allowed
tiliD the fi-ee commoDers of nature, the bird*, to fly in and oot as they
|>leafie.

1 oaunct coDceivD how It happem that tlio iip|if r Ha.t«r3 cannot mastor
jnagnauimity enough to irubJM^t themselvt-s voliintariJv to this trivial tax,
if it were only to avoiil thn diagrat'e of tho thing; it is 8trftng« too to
think, Uiat any people should long submit to such a nuMroblc spoule* of
opprcsrion.

Many abases are no doubt nf more importanre, bnt this is of to open and
b»ref»eed a ch*raclcrl Tlie great man wiJka by unrjueetioned wich hit
purte full of dueats, while the poor one, thi; verj- iK^ggar. it forooi] it) nnn-
mage among his rag? perhapi for hii lout krcntjtrtr. Wpjisod, therefore, be
thp iii?w e<^fiw which is to iutroduct^ a better pystem • BI«8M>d be its
finiftdation-Ntoiio, which it to be at tbc same time tbc foundation of Hun-
garian equality and true Iretpdum t

I Tinted tlie works several times with n enrd of admismon which I ob-
tained at the '* Hridge Office," for the CTnrspoiidctice, the mariagetnent
of tlie money, and ntlier matters connected with the building, have ooca-
uoned so mucb businea?, that it has been found nccGssary to have ta

THIS BBttKiE AT VKSn'li-

823

oSm, and t pretty niim«n)u« ouMialnnait of derics uifl offi«M» derot«l to
it. In order to i'M|i|Mm Uic wMftht of tlw bidge, vhich is toctmnA at
asTBtem of iron irliaim, four pSen arv iM>(>r8!Uir}-. two nenr the nhorc, uid
two in th« tniddlo of the BtrauD. The f'vur mun chuiru which ftra t9
bntr (he jmsleat bunleo, »re b) wei^ 24,000 cwt. ; they hare been
maJp in Ei^and, u tlicn* di> not cxUl in l^Iuii^ari,- t^e machioes ruqui-
aite to trv thinr straagth, and xulijcct ovurr jkart to a. ri|^d csaminatioii.
^lis triaJ iiiacliiiMiy u enorinoudlj' rx|M;ntive ; bat iu EugUud it is ofbeo
■siitrd. whereai in Huoganr it mi^t never be waiit«<(l a (wocnd dm*.

Tlw bridg* naa bef^nu on the lit of May, JS'IO, acid the put mm
«KCled, CKuict* only of the cnSnt-ismt, for two oat cf th« four pert.
The cnostructiDO of tbew cotTcr-daau is in itself a ^pantic work. Tlicy
nn! tumformrj cwiloavM Diad« In the river, hj ilrivin^ in a doubla
trail of (hIk, pumfrinf; «ut th>c sand and watM*, ai>d filling the entp^
apace with walcr-ti^ht clay. In ordiT to t^vc tlicm tiic necewarr aCrengtn
Id rcsn the prcMure of the ice in thr Danube, they are foHilit>d by a
tytUmi of eroM beami in the interior. Fur the whole brid^, in tho coa-
Struction of tbew c<iffer-da*a», t»i> fewer than 7000 pilci arc required,
each tJiL* tnmk of a mi^ity [litiC'Crer. Each of theso piles ia funiuhed
with an iron point, weigfaine near a hnndnAHVcigtit, so that for theM
point* only, 700,000 ponmu of iron nwut be tank in tW bed of tb«
river. Evrr^- |iilc haa to be simV vighteea leet deep into the bed of the
nver, and lint i» ofleotod by th« •troke* of an anomflw block of iron,
ererv pile f<oqniring about 4(X> stmkvs ; yce all tlitu toil ix of coarse only
to Aerve a tetapnrary purpoM, fin- aa aooa w the pieni are corapleteo,
tlte pilM are unii awny uind'er the water, learing only what b deep tn
the giooiul.

A ateam-ciif^iDO of twenty-four horvo power ha* been erected to pamp
the sand and water out of tlic cofTcr-danu, and if the work proceed only at
the Mine rate va hitherto, wo mav calculate that every suaunor one of
thc«c prvpuratory labours will be eompletcd, and the peogtie enf^afped on
the workj muy foel tolrrably HstiBfied, that far maiiy years to como there
It no £ear of their wantini^ emptoymLiit.

Sorne diilieultiM liiat euat^. howewer, with reapcct to eertain bwldtnef
bekjnf^tif; to tlit: t^tvrutncut, uud nhtctt t^Mteucted the workn on the Butt
aide, hare been arrang^ed, and Hwy will now prooeed more rapidly.

1 accompanied the principal architect to tJt» place in the middle of tho
river, where tbcy were preparing tot the tniadle pier, and waa much
amused by the gabble of Bnglbn, Qerman, Italian, Magyar, (uid Ktavo-
aian workmen, sw'&niiin^ like nnta over thn genff'itlding in ilw miiUt of
the nug'hty atnarn. I count<^ above twenty machioee at woric, driving
in pilee at this one pier, and thowh it seenu a ninple thing enough to
kaap ooa'a hand* out <»f the way of a nuehine we^^in^^ ten bunored-
weipht, and falling tliirty fiw^ vH thn penpla arc *n earclAta and tiiought-
leu, that accidents are reiy nequeal, and the loss of tlirir faanda and
flngttn ta often the cO[iMi)nence.

Thn number of pennru in the Iwvtpital of St. Rochus, who have been
wmiudcd and injured in this way, amounted to fifWn. At thit nte in
may calcnlate on seventy or eighty perwns being more or lesi toured,
befi)WJ the bridge i« noinpleted.

The Engliib workmen, whom die arrhitcct liad brought with him, tahc
precedence of the rest ; aeit to them an the Italians Eram Trieste and

'nli THE ILISCIAN TOWK. — TORKJBU 0AT1I6

Vfiiuoc, wlio hsv» much oxpenvnm in siilMiqiHTniK btiiidiiii;^ ; and afW tlieie
oomd Ui« GffnnMi, HungsrUn, nnd Slftroniftn worknien. There wu miI j otM
of the nftUrea with whom the Enji^lish &n;hiteH profesBed hinuclf sBUsGed,
uving they wen ta t^iirral "ntniitil [Htoplt-," but of thU oue he latd,
" V«,^t(, he isMmetnin^lilcA an KnglUhinnn — th«rc'« some ipirit about
huD."

I climbed tipoa the eitreme point of a »rt of bulwark erect^Kl to break
the farce of die ice, aod cnjoynl a tnftj^iificvnl |)anoranui of the two exten-
•ivc cities atii the tnountaiDs orouod, trom the middle of the inajvrtic hrcr;
indfcd I cwuld not prrvai) oD myself to ieave the place till tho evening bcU
aouniled across t}io wat^r.

Cii«at anxiety prevailed in Pestfa lut winter, conccminf* this iee breaker,
&nil it ivoa tlioti^iC it must bo swieptaway. aa well as the ofTcr-dnni iCnoa
intend«d to protact. Tu the gnat triumph of tlie English, liowerer, it
r«nuiii«d onnijured.

A» it na» Satunlay ni(;lit I mwid ashore in the ciini|«u]y of a. ciuwd of
the wiirliniifti nvhn wi-m p>ing^to gvt void. Under a. wooden shrd, in the
eourtyanl nf tlic Brid^ Of&cH-, wher« uty vast h«ap« of building matcriaU,
there rtood a lon^ wooden table, vo^-«r^d witli l)ca>ps of money iu varioua
coini, of great and small value. " Pn^iouH burden !" thmi^lit, dnubtleM*
the workmen, B« they stnoil nroiind coiitpni[>laling it wit^i eager gUneM.
Iliev were called up vno aHcr another to receive tlioir we^'s wages from
the liniids of a smart caaliier, whn counted out the mniiey with gruat ra-
piditv. wliiUt a clerk s'lUinjj by entered it In a hook. Oiu- ini^hl tratw
noirmtliinif of the chamct^r of oftcli mnii in th* manner in whiph he i*cftiv«I
hia money. One would clutch it eagerly, as if afraid ii mi^ht be lakca
from him again, auother would come up with a aancy air, with his liat oa
one ride, as much lui ta «ay, " ("omti! (jive me what brlfltig* to mo." A third,
with a fullvn and siaistor look, would glnncD round at tltc cashier diatd-
buting all this money with so much indiHcrence, as if he thought, " Ah !
you rich rascrols, you have money enough, but you give US poor fellows OS
little M you coji — if 1 had but an opportunity ! — "

1 noticed that thrtitgii tlicy all tisnK it without counting, probably out of
mipect, they jttopiR'd oiitsid>(^ and ojuntefl it carefidly two or three times
over. Some would immediately begin to discharge little debU to thwr
commdcv, fomo would give it to tbuir wives who ni;n* waiting outtiidei and
otJiers would go sin^iig and nhoiiting along, ili!!i[)nti)ig as to wluvh vrns the
best public-house to spuud the evening in.

TUB UA8CIAK TQWK. — TVHKiSH UATUS AXD ORlENTAIt
FILOaiHS.

In the beautiful picture of Biido, on the oppontc side of tho river, pre-
sented from the windows of my hotel, I wax particularly xtnicL by a part
of the town lyirig between the Observatory luid tlif Castle IliH, co\-ered
with its churchM and |)tvliicijd. 'f liU wiu the district paiticidarly iiihabiled
by tho Jiasctaiu or ScrviiLm, cniisisting of about n thousand small houses,
ocoupying the side of a steep hill called the Bloek^berg, with teri'aees rising
one above the other. These horizontal streets, of which there arc five or
aix, are connected by little stccp Innca or flighu of fltepfl> and from the dis-
tauee, the houses appear to have but one window each. The whole had

Xtn> OSIEKTJLL PlI.GBIH)ft.

ass

wry inuch the appeoraoco of a pwnt ampliitlrcatra, in vrbkli the Iioium
represented tho Ixuet. ] uxpressecl to & IluDfjrarian aH|uaintaiir^ my ni$)i
to take n ncnrer view of thu curious quarter, au<l he nnin-vml kccordin^
to thv odd vxpresaon much in use here, " VrVll, dear thint/, if vou would
^^ to go^ go, but I dmll not go with you, for I know there is nothing to
bfi tem."

I may rctnttik, en patsattt, th^t tim word l/tUiff is iuihI in & tnoro ex-
tended wtue, and made more miivenally irrvici-Alili.', tlian, I bcrlicve, in
Any otlier eouittry in tht! norlcL Tli<*y not only ttso it bs wo do our-
«eTre«, to xignify any iuEUiioiatc objtct whatever, of wliicli w cntiiiot ini-
luediiLtrly rcrolli-ct ifio name, but even eitead it to pertoni and abstract
(^iialitiiii of the mind.

Tlio Rasciani have iproad all orcr llung-ary from Sen-ia their nntire
pTOviuue, principally in the Banat, the BaLschlia and Syrutia, which we
iiiall have occasion to speak of in the ge^^uel -. but in uorthorn Hungary,
ihe land of the SJovaka and Kaxniolu, ihera are but few. Tli^y have «ata-
hltthed tlienuelvet aa bar^^ranvn and tnulers on the Dannlic. and aluitul in
every town ou ita baidtx a particular ijuarter is appropriated to them, as
in many G«imaa towns to the Jews.

These people have been drawn into Austria by tlw spirit of trade, but
also fruijuunliy dri>-Kn into it by the op|iiM«ion» mtfiVred from the Turk* in
their owu country. Thi« mi^rratioii of tho .Seninns has been eonilnntly
taking place tiacv the first appearance of the TuHi9 iu Europe— frum the
limr when their first princes tied to Buda to seek the nroteotioii of the
Hungarian kiiif; ^igixumiid, to Ihe day when nnaco Miloseli canio to
Vienna to solicit ptrmif^tian from tlie emperor to buy land in the Itanat.
Something ainiilar has tnlicn plaoo with the Anueoian^ wlto also eic&ping
Ai)m MuiaulRuui tyrauny, nave apread over tlie southern prorinces vf
Ktusia. Tlmy were Kasoans and Germans, who, at the close nf the sc%-en-
t«Gnth ccntim'i wcm taken as colonisb to repe«plo Pcsth, juft fiiatchcd
IVoDi the hands of tlic barbarous Turks. The Raseians chose the Blocks-
ber^, the Germans fixed themselvei on the Ca^llo llilJ, but thtfsc nou' ao
far e:icvcd their fvllow-lowiuuten in nuiabcn, that the ivholo nty may
be considered a Gennaii one, — the Rswaaus tliemselrcs bcliiy hali-lnius-
formed into Germans.

The <{uart«T wlucb tliev inhabit has no vcrv attractive appearance, nor
ia (he vpcct of tho hoiuwa much niorv inviting;. On opening the door
leadin|^ into a little couityard of on« of them, the first thing that met my
tf9 wiu the E»g«ty, over which, as well ns orer a shed near it, a piotn*
waa nailed up, confirming wluit 1 liad heanl of tlic foadneu of tlicge people
fi>r all kinds of ]iictnrial rc[ire»«nIaliorM.

Tlie owner of the Imusu, whose name was Ba^onoviiah (literally
toaaalitteil, — tlie aon of the one aent from God,) was not at home, being at
work in tlie Tineyard of a German neighbour. The roonu were vcnr clean,
and on one of tha wallo hung [iicltir>>d of our Saviour and serenil saints,
altJiough the general character of the Baanuis u by no meani of a saintly
order. Tlic opinion entertained heie of their cunning and roguery ts
preitv woll ecpraMod by the common saying, that it »ill take four Jews
and b>4 gipnw to make one Rascien. In this condemnation are included
the modem Greeks and Macedoniaaa ; and then ii probably some trutli in
the notion, for the very same opimon of them » eotertwoea by tlie pcoiih)
ai OcUmo, and ta other plocca where I have heard them epoken of: ana it

8W THE KJieciJLK towkj—tokkius baths

ii pmCty much in the nnte trt^-**" that tb<<T wriv held fermerly by the
Veoetiuu and Gmioam^ with whom ttwy were 0ng;Dfj;ed m inarcuibln raU-
tioiu I Rfty, evo) tlia RonuM bad ^t fsovcrbul fffmri wa ** GraeaJUtt

oaUafifttn " Oiw rout not, howercr, luffer odc'i opimoa to be infloitgDeed
too nuoh by Mvinf^ oif this kind, lor if m rint uid obiene these people
ia llwir homce, wr tiud at lent as mutzh to excite iatercA and nympothy,
M to awmkea oontcnipt ar dulik&

The nputstWD of the Rescian town, id Bnda, ccnespaodi eixactly -with
tliat of thrir countryman tfaroogboac Htmgvy. If any tnc|uiTy ii made
coDcenuDfC the conduct of its iiih^nlant^ tb« usiiol reply >>, " Well 1
haven't heard of any tiling lately, bnt il'^ a bad place to ^ to at lugtit ;
one** life's iiot nfe (here at niglil :" aiwl niv own oxpurieoce did not tend
ontainly to coatndict this unibnictrable joacmeBt

It tiappt^ncd onv rveniog that I waa etroUiog rather late up the Blndu-
b«x< "■' which, as 1 have already said, tlwobaemtory is situaUsJ, in nrdtir
to pay a viRit t>> an ndRWuuKir who had ipminiwd to show me Bomt-thing
I wisdcd to sou ou the diik of the moon, luid «d I ciimixTd up tlie uanoTr
crooked Unci wid dirty paths which abound in it, I cvnild not but call to
nund. Bome rtoricx I luid beard of its peculiar fiT(i[H'iiKities. I nroe bade
^■He Mb and sound, but early thc> next mOTDiu^, having occasion to !%•
tnoe my Meps. i saw the body of a murdered man iyiu^ exactly in the
patli I ud UaWfud the ni^t before. The police wnm oecupiod in con-
veying it into a hou«c, and in aiuwer to my inquiry [ waa told, " y<4, th«
Bffwyn^ killed a man last nigiit! £Ic was a dealer in wood, who used to
hnn^ SUvoniaa oak for the new bridg« that'e boiMiiv. lie had just been
to goi bis tnoney, and lay down in the moonrinaa to weep. Silly enouf^
but they do it continually, to aw the vxpcnM of an uin ; tiie moouy'a
ffODC, and thcro'a the man, and a pretty picklo lie is in." " But, goixl
God! how it it pMsiblc? here in the middle of the 8trec<t, nxrmimded by
bouKMl" " Ob, there an.- people here who aeTer hear any tluuj^, aud theM
tn plenty v£ barzcmca or c^e-driren that nay have tlmo it, mid be far
flooni^ ate by this time." I pitied the lata of the pxtr wood-dculi?, and
could not but fed that I hnd had an ojitape.

On otiu of my tisiis to the Itaacian town, I enUred a sort of eating
house, over which was inscribed, " This house is In the hands of God, and
ia kept b}- Maria Leitherio," and the Maria Leithertn was a limnan. Th«
inttmabe aseocialiou into which the Gennans and Kaecisiis arc brougbf^
baa. Iiowever, by no mean* tended lo abate the feeling of jealousy existing
between t^em, luid this jealousy is never more conK|iicuou3 than in the
diurch, whRTcthft termonaaredMirereddlemateiy iu GL-nuan and Servian.
In the pious processions tliia feeUnff of nationality oftra breaks out into in-
decorous squabbles ; bh each party deure» to li»« the jireeedcnce, and both
tlao Epiiitual and ti^mpoml authoritttM am Eometimxri obliged to iuterfw*
to settle the disturbance. A grrat number of the Scrvluni of Buda do
not belong to the Grerk but to the Catholic chitcvh, lutviiig bc«n eonri>rtt>d
by the Franeisean monks, but the Servians in fjaoeral eling with |;^at
tenacity bo tbcir oiifrinal fajth. The Kascione or Serviaas (for thcsu terms
ore in fact nearly synonymous) arc said to be more devout than thair
German nei);hbours, and mora rifpd obaerveiB of fast-days, but at ihe sams
time iar mora addicted to brandy.

The Rosciaiu liaru, like tdl orientals, a passion far warm liatfcn, luid
it is not unlikely that they were ioducod to settle oo the spot they now

oocuiiy In- the tempUtioD of die aAptmr spnngi, aaao tliree out of ths
Qv* whieh Ofen pcMseaws, ore Ui be found iu tlie RsmUh town, the King's
B4tli and tlie Kmpcror'a Both only, lyii% futbcr up tlw I^nube.

Thcwlnthi woe known utd uaccl ctcu in thu Ronuns' timi^ sai the
Turks, H Dunr be nppoMd, i&irly levelled to tb«aii. To tliem, indeed (I
iDMn tbe ISnlca), moM of tfi« improremetrt) Bade in the bnthi nrv oniog.
They an fmiueatcd hy nil ciutM, utd m&ay Tisit them c^Yn- day, m.ud-
teniig mwitv much vt ttif ir lime eAxnrudi in the tlimtnis and co41'L'«-bou!>ej
of th« nfwtibouriiciod, or in loitoiinp ebout in tlic eunshine.

A RpacKHU huUdin^, eueloiiag: >e?«T^ courit, hw boen erected orcr Uio
^ringit from vhkh tlie water it ctijii-tl tti pine* into a fjvai nunilier at
nore or lew cUemnt Wtfainj^-ruaim, aiuL finally into a grv»t bodii called
the CommoD fiaUi, which ia precisely in the ttate iu which it wax left
by the Tnriis. Some of the hxtha cost as mueli a« two flomu tlie hour,
bnt in the comninn bnth one may uC the whiilu day for a |K^niiy. On
viaitini^ thi* wc had Ia paM thKvn^ii t«r«ial luurcw paMagvi bcfoiv enter-
ing; the durf apartmpnt, where such a dim liglit prevailed, that for
Bonte time we could divtiapdik Dottun^ erery olject being- Toilod in a
thick viLpour. \iy dwreai env ajei tteeane ueoMMied to tbt Sgfat, or
darkaeu, and Wv cotud peroctvo many naltird fii^urcs, sitting or iwimminf*
about in tJie iratvr, wluch flowud tlirongh llic middle of a high-vaulted
ifember supported on pillan. To the mllan were attached a. few dim
hoiM, and two or thrM ver}- small wiDOOWi, d«<^y luuk into tli*! vvry
thicK wall, iidntitted a at-anty gleam of dayfigliL A biond iitnne pave-
mvut ran round tlm biuin, and *l0Be bendivti roiiiid lliu w^U. Men,
vooueo, ^U, and ehildr«n, of all a/i^^s "'^'^ i^pUtbing In and out. and
dnasing aind uadmaaing theniaelvca in varioua comcn, and the boys were
■annnff theroselTM, hy ilipjHng about on the wet marble floor. My con-
dodor tnfoimed mit that hit lu>cw a pisinter who oft«n cunc hetr, to smdj
tbe " human fbnn diTiae," and it murt be Gotifctaed there was plenty of op-
portunity. No one appeared disturbed by the pmenoe of !□■ neirhboiin^
but peeked up hia or her clothea in a bundle, and i^wsw tbmi m a dry
place on a bviKh, wry quietly walked into the water, ana after vplasfaiag
abuut for a wliik% sat down tnider one of llic pillars. 1 was particnloriy
struck by a joai^ and very pretty girl, who undrvesed herself m a distant
and ralner aaifc cvmer, and kcejiin); on nothing more tliun a little nliort
trndor petticoat {a rcmnrkablo instanee of tDodeity by the bv ) vrr^- rom-
poiedly jumped into the bath. Ko one of the tnon oflt-reJ to npjmioch
her, evorr one keeping within the limits of his own domain. Ono only, it
might have ht-rn her brother, or peihaps a hhdegrooiii, did not acem to
relish tlie cario«ity with which wc were regarding bcr, and eame ■plas lm g
up towards ber. By the feeble light of the Ivnp wo could see the gin
looking anuou«ly and timidly in the direction in whi<di wc were (standing,
and the dark steamtog face of her friend, whoever he miglit be, emerging
bom the flood, and paang hinuelf between the girl and us inquifiUTe
ftfUgen. I cannot say, howercr, tliat I believe the giili who nwincnt
ihew baths to bt; generally of immaculate character, but povL-rty and tbe
paauoa for baths, doM oocaaionally tempt even these to visit them.

Tbo Imperial Batbc, at the other end of the town, immediatoty on the
Danube, reacmUe llteso in nntt respcctx, but am still more cxt«u»vc. In
the centre of tliis building is a kind of garden, where, when I visited it,
BORieroni bathing guests— Servians, Germans, Uunganans, Jews, and

"SB" THE BASCIAK TOWN. — TL'RKISU BATUS, &C.

tnm TaAti wbo oft«B conu to titaaa faadia from great di>tann>«, -vtm pro-
mcnaclit^ ftboot, mlivened by tha vmuAc of « ^pny band. Tlin KkUu fti«
as inucli rr«r)iient«(I in viiiter oj in sumtncT, fur tiioiiy of ihc poor ire rfaid
ai Buch xii oppnrtunity to get thorouglily wanniMl tbrDiij/h, for ibree
krvulx«n, or r&th<T mora tluin a penny. I hiLv» hem tald that fidi arc
DDinctittMrs fouud in the narm iriilt7 of tbcM batbr, biit I acvor tv» any
tlunc hut tome frog*, and that iras in n jnitiriiJnrlr cool part of them.

Tlia wiitvr flowinf^ out of these baths £«nes to tuni a mill, and a little
furtlicr on, nhvn it f&Ua into Hai IHaubv, \ias mill wannth «^nougti Jcfi to
indiice the laundraam to talin ndTniitn^ of it tu wiu)k ihcir linen. These
spring* never fivew in th« coldest wititer«, niid flow uith equal nbtindaoce
ID tlic driot flumm^m, for which rvn^ii the mill, an old Turkish fnrtrrtl^
»ilh Toot towrra, pa)-* »in thnusniul Jloriiis tmiI, and the inillcr iis fuiiw
f|uently, to be consiJfri'd m hji opuU-nt i»fnnii, Ih-siJw havinjj « vpry
«ffr««able, though ratlier oorpulcnt wifo, and some vrnf rirctty dan^liters.
i tuiTCi I mast con£ew, an old prcjiidiru in favour of the [it-aiity i>f millen'
dauditcnt, and it- wa« ccrtsitilv utrciij^honw! by wlia.1 I ohtM-md hi-re. I
made acquaintaiico with th« lamily, and pmitiitvd tu pay tlii>iii a ristl in
the eremaj^ nfter r«tuniitig from a certain MaKomctfln bouse of prayer in
the iitNj^hboiirlioiHl, Ti^*[M^rtii>^ wlitch many strange, but, I inia^ae, fabu-
lous tt^^iriet^ had Lnm-u told iik-.

The keys of lliia mostjuo are kept in Constantinople, and tlu) pilgrina
who vi.iil iitf. spot every tivn yeara, receive tlif keys on setting out upon
tJioir pilgriiiinfjc, for wliieh tlify ate e()uip|»ed by some religiou* soeiely in
the Tuiiiish capital. Tlii* monqiir in, mon'ovcr, the most northerly poiiit
of Muhonit^tfin jiil^iniaiifca, Wc necimdcd the hili n(VcT piisiin^ tho last
ftriijTgWn'i huu«e« of Buda, and Icavin); the broad roud, cntprcd a foot-
path, which led tlinrmgli the yard of n Buda vinc-drewer, up a little flight
of etc|><, and jo cImc to a pigsty, that wln-n thv Muisulinaiis piua by
they must have !om« trouble to pnwprvc tlii-ir Hnwing ganncnls from the
contaminating touch of tlie unclean animal, Tho sacrwl biiiUiiiig it«elf
is a solid octagonal stone mauaoleuin, such ns ia ofteo seen in Mnhnnietan
buiying-grouuiia, and is tlie toiub of a distingtii^hed pacha of Buda. The
vine-di-esaer's wife, a worthy old (lennnn danie. whfi was in tha Imhit
of perforniiiig lilUe sprvitM fr>r ti]o pilgrinw, *«cli a* briiiijiiig tlivra
irater to woih, iiifonnrd me that there si-Idom came more tlian three
or four in a year, but that this year, she liiicw not whv, tliey aniountpd to
fifkeen.

Jdost of them appeared to be poor [Ko^de, but some few brought ser-
wints with them, llicy all pulli-d oft" tlicir shoes before entering the
inausi)leuni, aiid thom wlm had their Kervaints with ihi'oi, had their feot
nl fumigated w-ttli a costty incense which thev broHghtwith tiK-m. Th©

Iiilgrim.i all appeared (|uite well aci|Uiiin1i;d with the locality, as if it ha4
leen iircviiiiwly ilescribi'd to Ov^tu m Turkey.

When they ciiUt ihr door, thuy pliiee nn« foot clniirly before another,
so as to ci>uut their stops t'U 'bey arrive at tin- spot where lies tbo head
oftbesnint. They then fall proslrale on the gruiiiid aiid pray. — many
with such dtfvntioii and I'thauxtiiig fervour, that tliyy are earned out faint-
ing, when their couponloos or attcndanta rub them witli a eertaiii ointment
wnich rv^tlnres them to life^ They come not only rroni Constnntiiioplp, but
nlso from th(> distant part* of ibn Turkish empire, ftoni Asia >lin()r. Syria,
and «von from tbo Persian frontier. Most, a* 1 have said, orfi poor, and

THE nOTEIJi AXn THE CASIXO AT FESTH. 229

irel on foot from place to plaoe, ud arc moally kindly and lioiipitablv
reoeiteil Uy dip cjtli()tu> primU of iJie [iliu-p, or l»v the P(>ii\-cnt». wIucd
libsnlly lAbrd tJinn sh«1t«r tuiil support. Tho f^ntor tiiinibpr iif these
jtilj^rimt arc mod«it and wfll-tn;Luv«tl people; liut it occiuionAUy liupfjetu
lltat some nr« lmtil>li**oniv. ftml iht^y itrr in nuclt cases conveyed, at the
expcHie of llip city, bai*k Ut tlic TiirkUh fmiilior.

We cnuld nnt enWr the maiMolonra, fi« it U kept locked, hot oar con-
dact<}r furnished us with a ladder, hy help nf vibich vc looked in at enme
Uttle ^icd apemin^ at iIih uppei- nart, by whicb it wa« feebly lighted.
Tile walls wero wliitewiuhcd anil hiinff with ruriMis nrtielM, — a iworH, a
iMggcj, a banner, S mi; of block doth (probably fracn the rrnoniicd black
mantle of Kanhii), aiid other tilings. I vras laid iliat there was alao a
ebme suspended tlii-re, although fnmi wlwrc we *tood [ could not see it;
and tliat it wai lialf-tnunpoKtit and n-ritteti wvr with ventmoca from the
Kionui.

It beoatne quite dark and we wcne still linserin^ round llie maitsolsum.
And among the Utundli-at stn-tch of vitw>'ardii by wliioh it is surrounded.
Times wme iodeed cbatim] siiicc tlic Turk) pourtd their eouqueriiiff
annie«, with the lulton nt tneir bend, orer tliMc cnuntrivs, nrhers now comas
only n. golitary wandering pUjin^m, indebti^ for htn biMrv t'si«tftnre to Uw
dcecendaiitn of iliuM tenr ClinAiaiu, whom lii* forofatbcrs regarded as
tbcir ilaves. P«r{ia|M tlM (onely slirine bears nianv a feri«ut prayer
tiiat Atlali would bs nbaMd to mtorv tliis bind to t'hG doounion of the
&ithful.

Our Iioftess of the mill inrormed me iliB,t a Ttiriibli dervish wiw then
living at the Imperial Balli, who after hit bsd perfonoed h« prc«cribed de-
votional <lutio« ftt llic mftiitoleuni, liftviDg bad a desin' to vitit the far-famed
city of Vienna, had set out In travel on fnot in tlinl direction i but, on
acooant of some ii-regularity in his passport, the iioor innocent demsh
had Bmh seised by the Aiutrion [•oMum as a ramieiaus pcrvon, and moat
itncervnioniouslr morchad bock over the lliinjrarmn frontier, u if he liad
been a penton tuogeratu to the peace of tlie etnpire.

THK nOTEM A»D THE CAi^INO AT PESTH.

I bare often had ocoaaioii to be surprised nt the inimrme number
of hotel* wliich luve «prong up in Gwinany during tltcse late " pijitng
time* of peace ;" but 1 roiwt confwxr, that what the bwt twenty ytwrt liava
done in this rwpect for Pesth, far exceeds any tlunc of the kind that w»
have to show. The grand ttyle of these eislabli^bmnit^ ntrikes us the
more, when we consider wliat the town wn« even a few ynaw ago : and it
may Krvo alio as a stnodord by which to ertiniute wluit it probably will
be foiDO years hence. Tlioic of Biida. althoTif^h twenty In number, can-
not be compared with tboK! of the sister city Iti elefrnnoe. Those of tlio
first class in P<ath are usually built roond a. quadnmgte, with two great
dinin^'ludls, one below opi-iiing into a garden, furaulfcd with an or-
cliestra in the evening, oiitl another on an uiipt^r floor, more pnvate and
nore frequented hy guesta of distinction ; the htting* up of both apartmenta
being equal to any thing we »hon)d rajiect in Paris. There is alwayf a
cofleeroom well lupplied with ncwsppers, and (as far as I can decide th«
^pMtioD) the cuimM is unexoeptiouablr. The ttaircate is generally bnad

2)0 TUE nOTEU JUn» TBX CASIKO at PE3T1L

■od iMndlMM, l>«V ntin^ of nttiUe, dwontrd, whorprMr it in piMnM^
with th* Hw ^ miim mtiBWil oatomt—gnva, rrtl. uid wbitc, itw giMB
Ui^ undenrtrood to Jetignilli the in*e«n hill on wbtdi die uicimt kingi of
HuogWY Bt their eMO Ot wm were wont to hratxlbh th« strord : whita for
th* four pritidpsl rirvn of tbv Itii^tloair th« Danabc^ the Thc)H, th« Drarc^
•nd the S«Tc, and red probablj- to indicate the mjnl di^tv, TWaa
•doun nwK one it emy turn in Himsuy : the chtin and sofiu ue
irf m d with nd, pv«n, and white ftuff, tad the niys of the mn obIv
Aro ngh nd. green, and white blindx ; tJie te ma t m in ali pahBc iinlilD*
tioas wear thim coloun in thor tivaij,^aDd in tlte hotels and <x>froe-hoan>
whcfe patrioCi«D is " yofo- only wear," they present themselves in vtmrf
ymtty ti£ form. I had some curioaity to diacover tla- dat« of Um cgai>
neaccDMnt of tliis Gervent DBtionalitv. Mid lu tlu- {whlir sbootin^gaDary
of Paath, whn» tha tugata fi<r a ivrrn nf yean are hangin|; ap, I par>
c«iv«d tlwt tha appaanmoa of ihr Iltuignnan cvluun Wj^aii viith tike jaar
1829. On ouc of Ifaeai^ two oagels were introduml, and they had tiai
lim oontplaisanee to mpftat dotfaed in ntd, gre^^L, and whiu--

Th« new private houMt in Peith, heloi^ng to the v«althiait dttMBSi
are, like the hoteb, built in a very spleiidid Myle, and ihroueh the open
Iionw-iloor. the long I'ista of columoi, and fonnlaiw, and Iteds o£ Aowen^
and tnaj*iu(u>ent najrcajtea, foroed oat of Uoclu of T«d marUa^ ia aoaoa
timei really furprisin^.

This peculiar inuhle, which u Tery alnindaM in Peiih, ta brougiltt
down the IJamibc from the tjuarnea nesr the nllagea of Nuiulorf, Kiih*
gnai, and Donoaloch ; it it lued br vnry varWty of purpose, from the
pihfM of tba Hving, to the momunenta tat the dead. It is rather toft,
and doai not admit of a very briltiant poltih, but iteontainamanytlulkBa'
fiwiiK wlueh often anmadetoptoduc^a very beaublul aftct. Onepieoeia
panicntar. I recoiled hannj; aeon preparing Set the headateoe of a S™va
A Btoue-eutter waa jufit thmi employed in etrvin^ the outline of a mtely
4ntwn «hell of throe feet in eircumfereoM, and what wu once the hone
ot a »u;ti1, in now proudly viithruued over the mnaina of a hamaa hetitg'.
Tliix iiiiirUc appenrs to hit ver>- eanlv worked, for the letters " LoiUM
Amatie Friedr ' (I did not w&it fo^r ibt fiunily name) were cut while I
stood looking on.

Seienil architiicta in Pvitli have alreadr guned a conndeiable reputa-
tion ; Korne Btr the rolidtty, anil iome for Iju eleganM of their ttructiim ;
and in gonaml, it ti to be ohMmd, the city has been indebted for aO it*
Inprommenta acd adommentR, not >o murh to the m.-ignattfi as to the
coniuienrial clastefi of her itilinlittanlx. Tlit? finest house Iwtot^ng to any

of tlw latter, if tliat of tliC rich tohaeco luooopoliiit, V n, and th*

Boat pirgcous of the palaces of iho uohility in tliut of Count K . Th*

Eungnnstts just now tliiok nutliitig gnod enough for their capit&l, and a
conparifoa of both pubUo and prirate huildlnga of fnrmfr times with tboas
reecndy erected, wiU euahio us to form a correct eeUmate of Uieir pivgicn
in the arte during the last twenty yean. The laat tremendoui iuundatiiMl
haa, in its oontei^ueDees, proved of no little wrvice to tlio iniprorementi^
by tweefHi^ away uuoibera of nuoll old Iioum-s and hovels by whUk
tney were obstmrted. Till then Pesch nsemblrd a Indy decunuin); bsr
htsad with feathen and diamonds, wliite her fe«t wv>re naked, and ])erhapt
not over dean. The inunda.ti>*ti has vruhed tfaeao foet, with a rongh brooea
iDdced, that tii some placua earned uway the aldo with it, but Uw wouuda

Tira noTELs Ain> the CASTTO 4T festh.

mre naw niArtljr limind, aud in place oT Uw ouMnble cUj huts kod wooden
•Imls that bsvc been dntroynl, lliera 1ikr« qmag- up nnri of netU pre(^
houMt. It were to b« dwireil that ttu>«i> dweQinn miglit retain this clw-
neterutw «f nntnoM ; bat if wv caII to miod ue d«acripdoa giTm by
Count SiwlicTi}-! of the manupr in which a new and eli-caiil stcunbmt
WM dtrtifd and destroyed by Hiuigurian travellcn, we duUI twel do conli-
dsnca in the ito»t>aQ of th« pbann^ npip wH Bic*, wi)m« we nippw* tb«t
Um h&lut» of the timvcllii^ Hangarion ififier Btatnially from thoM of bis
coiuitnrRicn m their own homM. As tbia u not likeljr to be the cue, it u
pfoba.bl« that a new wwbinf^ will bo necNMiy before ung;, tbotif^ luudJjr
U rough a ouc aa tbc town received on the Uct ocouion finm tlw Dsoiibe.
Xatwiilutandin^ all wr have siiid of tlic beauty of tho citv there are por-
lionfl of it wtueh make a very un&To«mble imprMHioii; w^ieh iu aumiiutr
AM noothered with Juitt, aud a> wiiU«r balf-burii-d in mtul : nnd many
p«rta, ev<-n ini'tiidiii^ tlie |)aliice«, Itave an mtnjmfurtnhlr nir of tii-wness.
nwncflf, and wunt of liiii«h. Another fault also, that thoiUd oot be pa«ed
orar wlule we ar« epeakin^ of the new btiildiiigs, 19 their fr«quent vrant oC
•oGdJtv, and the liaate riaiUe iu tlieir miiHtntnioii ; bnl it mvat bi; <iHinitt4>J
diat tmi it a fuliiiffesctrediiigly iinTvalcrii inonr timtn. [ lavo tveatiew
housed Iwnt witli craeki b ibair mam* wide enoiajfh tn put my hand into.
The oi^hc before I left Prague a Ibvcb >ewty erected mansion fell in ; and
tlien: is at this moment an extaosTe nuldtnif in lleilia with such a split in
it* walk, that it u a oncatton whether it will be held up bv the oeif^hbour-
iog boQMs or dr»w tiim with it into dettncUon. 1 pointed it out lo ■
Aakdman, and be told me that thew nmtton were not a wfait better
■HUHgMl in France.

He new buildui^ in Peeth, the R^doMUaJtauM, devoted to balb aad
a neimn iei^ wohiM two such am^ilin'iit nxinu %a a» not often to be
met with in onr w^thieit and most luxuriciut fajiital*, and the dancii^
room has a rhandclier. reqtniin^ thrco thnwtand w&«-lif{lita. Thmj an,
however, never all liebted at oooe, as the heat they w»tdd occacion would
be to great aa infalUbly to melt theia.

The moot important attd iatero*tin|f public bnildincr, bowever, it that of
the Perth Cwino ; whaeb, a« I h*ve before ob*«rved. nu pven occ^sioa to
many guntlar instJtutiona alt over nuuffsry. This e<tabli^nient — I mean
the noble— or, oi the people hero tay, the Magnate Casino^is devoted, in
tbe iinrt place to •oeinl ueetini^ tueh a* baila, (loncerti, and dinners ; and
•ceondlj, to the purpoeca of a hbrary luid rending institution. It contain*
■evenU comforuhle and even elegant rooms, in which all Hungarian [ml^
Keations, without any execntion, are taken in, as well as the be«t Germao,
and (cvrral tuigliili, Frvncli, wid nvn Anivncau paper*. For the hbraty
all bunk* piibliahcd tn the iiunnnoa lan^uuge ate pracorcd oi noaa as
th«y leave tlie preaa, and ao an aU lluH having any reCennee to Hungary
that npfiear ia foreign roiuitnes, beaidee many other* of mtereit on general
•nbjectx. ImiBlowi] tjiat I conaiiler myself aa under particolar oUigatioae
to tim CaaiDo, for 1 genemlly had the tnn-e pl«auiot and conrement apuW
mcati tot my >ole nee and becelit. The titirty Inrge handsocDe lamps
Abu» Sat my aeoDramodatioo, and the bterar}- tmuurca »f tbc b o okcae M
wd uUes oppeand to be bud. out aa tribute at my frrt. Now aad then a
single n«d«i Msidca myself would drop in, bat be was son bcfose long tn
begin to yawn and spee£ly diaappoirmL 1 cvukA, however offirvs tlwt I
ehouk) at all timea have enjoyed eqnal opportunltiee (ot thin luaunous re-

232

TBE HOTELS AND THE CASINO AT PESTH.

tiremcQt among- bookt, tm peculiarly to my tasu, without being dinturtx^
by the iutnisioii of ■iiy *i»itcri ; for I g^Jiprallv went tlirrv iift^rr tho Uit-atre
wat over in the cvpniiifF, and it uut tlm litriH of the ^csr wlieii many nf tlis
but fanalim are out of town. In winter tho ioititutioa U probably more
Ereqncotvd.

In one of tlic ie»Jmg rooms tli*!* »tood alwnys twenty pipe* nmij
filled, and 1 enj<n"«l ('•v mnr* n^rM'itbln momonu during mv »fny u PMtl^
tlian wlicct, kindling on« of ^vhat [ may cull my twenty pip^s at 0D« of
mv thirty lamp*, ojllectinjr a packet of iiitf rioting bimlts nnd papers, and
lettiiifT my^vLf down into one of the luxurioiuly uiMliioiied bunging-diun,
I pn>[Kieetl U> drfiam over wlut veiu pBuing' or had passed in tlio past or
pnsent world.

The great work of Count Marsigll, " Danubitu Pannonico Mysieus^
containi such exBft. anA minute detniU of cv«ry thin^ eonnMtM with the
ximre T!ici«a and Dnniibc. tlutt 1 nns c]iiite altu-mi^ to find tltc field had
been so laborioiuly uUed. Min Pnrdoc's book on Ilunfrnn-, liko tnoot
£nglish works on thia countiy, is far too laudatory to be of much Taluo ;
and I do tiot think the lady can po«nbly be acquainted with tl)e wHtinj^ of
Count Sxcclieuyi, thv ili-cen-icd Coimt l>esG«Hy'. and otiicr (tistiiij^iiahcd
Hunmriau pabiot^, or with tlw manner in v>\av\i thev have pointed oat,
elwiriy and boldly, all tho evils and abuses of their n&tii'e eountn*, else ah*
wnula Krarecly have rcnturtid on tlic exli:lritii>ii of Kiich an f ttn^iuely tl&tter-
iog portnit. To »In>w •.•very tiling in tins deceitful " roufeur de roi^\
tbfi% b to do no true servico inther In the natt^ij or the foroignvr.

Tho Gn;;hsh ftvmpathUe reai^ly with the Htiiiffariant, not only from tlt»
OODiniDrt-liil rclnUniu betw(«n tlie two citiintrliM, hut far more on the lii^ter
ground of a similar enthusiastic love of politicid fn-edom. Tliey art- apt to
overlook the vatt differenees betw««n the Hungarian and English constitu-
Unns. While the potvi^r of the airistoomoy in England is iKilniirrd by a
nearly etptal power in the thinl ««tat«, that of the arintucraey of Hungary
hsa no ninilar counterbalflnctng power at ail. The nn^bihty in Hungaiy
^1,000; the pcoplc^O. In Hungary, indeed, there are counted (oae
d— Ofcrartatea. as coustitufing the diet,— namely, the prelaloa, the mag-
natei, the knighta, and lattly, lh« deputies of tlie tnwns ; but the three-
first tiAV« no iutcrett in common with the latt«r, who may be confidctvd
to have n seat, but no voice, in the a«ct)ihly. Mv ^vourite book how
ftrer, was the CoUection of Acts of the Hungarian lliet, a handsome eopj
of wbieh U nlwayi lying at the Casino, ready for reference, on a table ap-
pr<7priat<:d to it. Wbatvvcr may be the defects of the cotutitutiott of
nung&ry, It nini«t certainly be » great advantage for the people to be aU*
thuB (o make out wlmt is the exaet Kale of the kw on any subjeet. lit
titlo of thid book b Uecrcta, MOttiititiona et nrticuii strtnisti/nornM et
apottoUeoruM Itnjnm ac incifftorum slatttttm et onlinuiK /frt/ni Han-
fforiri. I aeixad oo it «ae«riy, wi^i a view to emraine for mywlf, n-hi»
titer there really railed that remarlcahle hiatus I had heard of between
tiia acta of tlie gnvemraent of Maria Theresa and of Leopold IL,
and I found, indeed, blnnk Itanw in jilaoe of the decrees of Joaenk
II., from tlw j-ear 1791. It is well Known that by a decr«« of tm
Diet, nil tlic acts of tliia emperor wero annulled, after hts death, as illeftal^
on account of his not having been a crowned king of Hungary ; and this
Bpaoe in the Iiook was, in eounequenne, h(i empty. Immaotately afti^
Uw decrees of Maria TI>cr«Mi, followed |hoM of Lt^tl II. lUi

THE BOTELB AK1> THE CASTSO AT PESTB.

S3d

tlie IIun<|^ADa tnerclv objected to the form of thew acte, wUch wm err-
tainly itlegul, they might iint lutve iweii tu hlamo ; iwt, ei|)MiBUy nflerthe
tdvice given to them on thi» poiijt bv tli^ <lWnfr J^^ecph himM-lf. tlicy
■hottid Dot ba^'o (hron-n sway, alon;; with the Tnulty tmscI, ho much that
mt eicellsnt iii the contents. Is it not to he regretted iJiat there xhmild
rem^ii in Hungry no tnee of thU eieelleut and ndniiniblc ninn ; who,
notivithstiuuliii^ i9iiiv occassional i-rroir, r^-u one of the moet dJstui^;vi4hed
tOTerngns tlmt ever rcijOTiMl over the country? Nowhere ii ha nuna
bnatlwd. It is us if he luuj never eKiBt«d, or bb if a curse li-y oa hia me-
mory. Will not (Mftraity xsy t1i;L[ tlify hnvc »triwn to nniiihilntc tiie K'
inemhraTia.' of the bwt and most cTilis^fiU-ncd ruler ever f^rantcd to them ?

Th* •xCnonlin&nr, the prcpotiteixiut value set on the ecoHn, is (me of
t}|ft most curtoiu pheaoiiKHit in llunganan history and lcgi:»Iat)«n. The
'* golden rouiul" of Uie holy St<'plirn, Miitldcd a? it it with jiciu-].-* and dia-
mondu, I* after nil nothiiifr moru thmi th» outward »yiiih»l of that ideal
crown nliich ia the key and romer-BUnie of the whole edifice of the ettite.
Thew ty|ica of M>rurrigiity liave a. kind «f (lurredness even among oUier
nations, hut among; the UungariiuiH thj> reverence fur tlie tantrihlc niut^rtitii
orown U ejtrrird beyond all rouciiiiihli' luiimdi. It Ii not nntv tig^mtivelyf
but fibtolut«ly ill itfidf sacred, itnd a eoa^ccratiriK pawcr is supposed to go
fortli from it; it ia caJlecl " Sacra HegRt Corona cum CteuodiU tuis," mid
acrunling (o the law of the kingdom, whoever tiaa not tilerally and cor-
poreally worn this metal ring on \\i* head, i< not the Icing. The principle
thut the king never dies is noC reeagniscd in Ilungnry ; Uic king id allowi-d
to di«, but the crann which is spoken of hy the Hungarians m a living,
ByMeriona king, rulei then alone till a new sovereign has united himself
wiitli it. Ue dues uut receive the tjtl» uf " Sacratistimn Myestat^ till
he has had the cmwii on his liend ; lufore tlmt he U tiioken of «• '* iV<n>>
eOTonala tarraiistitnn Miijestas."

The Dute which the Uuiitcanau projects of law hare to past, tlirougfa
all llic dchat«s and ittormy di?icu«iioii.i which take place hd'are they i-ari
reaeh the traiwjuil black and whitn of the natter code, is a very long and
circuitoiw one. First comes the king with nj* poitnlatea or " Proposi-
tioTKt Rcgiir" and distiibutes theia to the vaiioua csCatea or clossea
iMctnhled round liu throne, a* the Hungarians say, " with becoming-
pomn."

TLgm prapoMla are now tnken into confi'lcration by the two tablcfi
thai of the magnates and prelates, and tliat of the kni);hls and town Ac
nities, who dtiKMuu thorn nntotig tbemtelveit, and consider the tlifticulties
[gravamina ) which thoy mean to nnpoite to tlie royal demands. The two
tables then acquaint each oilier with their rcspcciiTe rcaohittona, and hold
general sittings {ustiones mUltF, or ncm mixtm,) until all, or at leoata
nutjority arc agreed eonceming the answer to be made. In all llie«e Sa~
OOMKilUi however, the deputies of the Unms are entirely innocent, let tba
iime be what it may. \Vhen the king and the states are not of the same
nnod, and at the beginning of the session, at all events, Ibia is generally
Uia case, iherc follow iniuimerahie resolutions and rtj/resentations, and
negotiations inter«p«rse«I wirfi more debates and monj ttstitrnt* mUttr and
arparatte, until at last tliey agree on »ouie points, and agree to differ on
oUieta, winch are then p«l off till tlie next diet.

At llie end of Ui« SMsion. all tbat has been agreed upon !■ mmmed np
in a paper entitled, ** Arliculi Jomiaorum pnrlatonaa, bamnum m<Tji>

•

»4

TUB norrxa axd the casiko at pestb.

iirill"MW of Honguiiuu wlw ore not noblet.

Then utielM us tlnen tvad to the king, and )its mmnA iwjuired in • re-
Hwc tful numer, bat this he does not mxA til) he hu nib}«cted die paper
to anotfaor rvrnioo iu hi* oounol. ^OB]d it be entirety ancon;!! vi. bo
Aan luM it pot bto tJto form ot a drane, to whtdi be ftvea bn f:tniml and
•pedal Hit«tuMi ; dedsring- thtut be ucaptt, ap Brow, aiul conSnns nhwt
H eoDtnina, that be nill oUcrra the mum IuidmI^ and will f«qnin> it to be
olw er i ii d br otben. To the»c decrees {dtertta mmtmimorum apastnH-
«nMi 4^) ^'^ nty^ «val is tbvn itAiip^ and tWy an pmerU«d to the
SUIca with tb« e%me pomp with wbicli t]>c«^ luid NA^ivMl the royal jno-
mab. Hlwae acts ant then mule public in ail tho ca(iut«ti« ami from
4at tima they hare the foTGe of Uwt.

j*——j alt tba booki, howwcr, which ncciipied mv at the Casino, th^n
van nana in whiali I was so much intcrrstcd a* in tliu nrititijra of Count
fixcchf^nvi. Thii imwrsried Dabte-minded frimd of his eoiintn- \\i* been
the author or promater of almoit every useful and v«liiabl« uitdprtakil^
iLat it bw witsnsed for vemn past : stcmm-Bar^^ionf the makiog of
mads as far as the Turkish froDtier, the cstaUishnKnt of the [Jteraiy
Socdetyof Pesth, of the Casino, erary deeirsble iinprorement brin^ the
name of Cmtnt Saeebeayi pruminently forward aa a duef s«tor ; lie has
iiaund Ume, onccthelaas. fin- a fcrin of writing*, all tendtnic to the rame
SObie «nd. Ilie tint, and most eel^brated. is cslM " Credit," and under
Ifeif titie be tnats of Uun^rian aflain in ^neral, of the Mcrttdnem «F
pahlie dutyi of aj^ivlturv, i>f the cultiTauou of ilte vine, i>f the wine trad*,
of trade in funeral, of nml* making, (if ittcai)i-ua>'i^(tOLk, aod of all those
tiling whiiOi wiiuld Ix- likely to raise the rhamctcr of Mungnrv in the eyes
«f IIm nroi-ld in gvneral.

Tlie NPTODil work ii calltd '• light." or infonnation relating to the work
called " Credit," and was called forth by nu analynii or criticism upon it
publifthei by Count Jowph Desewfy. These, 1 am tony- to say, are the
only writinga of Coonfe Saechmyi which 1 hare rrad ; but 1 most owa
1 nh tomo a rt oms h nwot, that coosid^ug the home truths which (m baa
apeiiaD, and the free and uncomprnniisin; torms in which those truths an
eaqmasad, the couiitrjinen of t]>n cixiiit .■'hinild nut only listen to luiii with
tw^noc, but liliould ur<Mi praiir [uid a-xnlt the aiitlior tn thp nVic-a, thould
ttog hia fuwtrnit in their apartment!, and " w^ar him in thoir heart's
^ora^ as the first of patriots. Had not the prmf been before me I coold
not have tbonght that any one iii Hunj^rv w<juld have rentnred to d«-
nounco in sticb Etraog terms iha national dorocts and emn. I could have
Cuicied i was reading; an oratinn of Dtraostbenct, or Usttning ta il patriot
cf tbe Roman republic pourian; out a tnnvnt of indignant eloquence agiaiaat
Aa tblliff and wea of his countryini'ii. Nntliinfr. ecrtunly, could gif« a
hi^hi^r idea of the noble dispoxilion, AT)d grctit capability (if tmiirairement
of the HuiigariaiUi than tbe enthusiastic approbation witfi which tbcy hxrit
rccetred tbcHc writing us well aa those of Koiisut and otherf, in wlucfa
iksT ar» thus roundly taken to task.

These rentleuteu, as I have before hinted, howcvur they may agK« in
ardent zcail for tlie progress of their conntiy, are by no mcani aj>Tced on
many olht^r |uiiitt«. Notwo of them perhaps can bi> said to be precisely of the
maa Ajnnton. Tho two Counts I>Mewfy, ar^, however patriotic, dendi-dly
wiikiii'Htic la theic rivwi, and, coiuidenng the Uun^^au cciistitubvn as

TEK BUHGAXIAK LTTEBABT SOCIETT.

SS5

MM ni lii B y nidi, denn to see it dexfrlopei! strictly in aceoidAiicc with the
iuleatioM of tlieir fim&lhm. Mr. Von KtiMut is a. pntrict of % diffinvnt
■tamp, and of far more KbcnJ priadpifa. IIo nf^nt^ in (he maia with
Count Ssechenji, and in llM wjaely-spread jounuil, acceraililR t^> nit, gi'rc*
uttennce to nradj the nine riewi as tlias« ex|)t««i«d tn tli» uwrv rlaiborate
worka of the ommtr addreased tu a tdctc select atuli«n«>. Thoro has bMn
iDdeadeonoedijiJutelMtwcca them cofMsmiiig the mode in which TCD Kossut
liat deeraed it tiUtii(f to utter his opinioiM; and this dispute, which maj be
eoniiderod oHtwr as a tterarv or a poKtical controveny, formMl, at tlii^ time
I vaf is P«ctb, a ^ncral sunject of eonversalion. Two tnUtions of Count
Saccheo^'s Mimiililvt had been aold off*, immediately, and I rcnuuned loo^
enough for Uw publication of von Koasut'a aiisw«-. At all tlic pomcn of
thcitrcctd I «aw flaming on redand^Dowpuwr, "/VWW, Crt-/ t>:^Acntfi
Mtwatak &o$nU Layoata" (Ausner to Ci>unt Stephen Surhrn^H, by
liodwig KoMut) ; and T ht-anl i^ointiiitially thv (jutmtionc, " Hare vod ae^t
KosRut'i autww ? Wliat docs Komit sayf "

Wc in Gormany liarc no idea of tlio lively interest in all jtolidcal <iaeB-
tioiu tlint prevails at P<-:ith. It ti only at rhrii or BruMaJa that we ever
see any thinfr lil(« it Ttiir piililic intarastcd in tfaeaa nwttm i* alao hy no
BMQl u limited aa niijcbt be suppoMd. The Bubfcribcn to the Ilirtap
■lone amount to four dtousand, and the editions of ihe above-meDliooed
|Hai{ifaIet«, which wer» wld off alueaC aa aoou aa publiahed, eonrinad faefa
of aavcral thousand copiaa. Thoae who from their pwilion ia aociety can
tike no active part iu political affairi, still look ea^rly on aa aniioas and
toiPtested ipeclators, and it«d with avidity all tliat ia written oo the
Mibject.

THE nUKGAKUK LITERART ftOCirTT AKD TOE HTJNGARIA^r
LAROUAQE.

Tn the n)!ddk> agn th« rity of Pestli waa always d«si?nat»d aa » ** Ttm-
tonica urbt," aud creu twenty yean ago, it micnt still he considered u an
•utirely Geniiiui town. In holi'l)* aud coffce-Iuiues, at halls and public
en Certain men tn, or in private houw-c, iiuthiii;; but (>emiuu nasipoken, and
even thoao Magyars who had Itardly any G^^rnian to opojilt, were obliged
to uake the most of it. Xot only many lluni^rias Gprmaos, but many
ma among the luopiatas knew nnthin;; of their mother tonf^e. In the
y^u I83o, abooIiMUer of Peath published a Kunssnan l^iieon, which
nad very Uttle sate. All at once uie toan of this iani^a^ be^o to be
beard, and since then the tide Itas risen higher and hiE*ber in its favour,
until it threntf-ni to ovenrhehn its Latin, O^man, and Slavouiui eoinpe-
titoTE. The ^ctiirnan, of which, iu three )-eun, only a few copies had
been sold, went olT all at once, and aQother etutioo was called Car, and dis'
Boced of in a very short time. Not much more than fifty veani ago,
there waa not even a piofeasor of the Hiiogariun tntijcfusfife aiiil tit«mttit«
■t tlie Pcsth Univemty, and it waa not till the diet of 1790. tiiat a r«<{ucst
waa maJe to the king " tU ia GyntMOsia Aeadeaais rt f ai'rersifa/e
Htmgarica petmliarii ProfVsn>r Linijttir ft Stifi HKagariri comati'
tttatyr," and now it i» required not oiily that every Gccnwu, Slavouan,
or other profmor should gtvr \iu leclnrea in the Mn^-ar tongue, bufc tfaak
wen the very peaeant di>i>uld take pahia to acnturv it. The Aemawla af
I the Magyan, that the Gennans and SUrooiaDs wioold learn their language

S34

THE HUNGAKIAX LITEKART SOCIETT

amy he wgJinlwi as nn imswrr, though rather it late one, to Uic proposal of
JoMph II., tliol ibw MacYan should learn German ; the nnperor -wiu oC ,
opinion that not oulj theMMgyar \angatigo, but dvf Mngyar ouatonw an *
piivUei;;^ were alt<>gvther ulMoletc, wiJ ougKt to bo tlirown asid«, an
ilrvanit^l not tint bpticatii UifW oshM a «jinrlc «tjll glimmered, that t
long wwli! Iitirst into a bright flame. ImuiwUateljf after the death
Jo«epti, th» lliui^drian diet addrasaed hJs wiccewop oo ll>* proprietv i
aboUihin^ the iiic 'if forri^n laiigtiagta hi ]>iil)li<- Imnncs!, and iiiiplonn
" N^ OHtr-m Alifii'w Ltnffua tftingaricn tnnrjin propofftlnr ft expriliHvr*
It is from thij proposal, doubtletf, that may t* dntMl the commeiicemeot
of that enthii.iiasni for Ma^ariem, which would have tx-ttcht'd its prvnrai
height loii|r Ix'fiirc, if the French Hevoliition, at ilie pciiod of Nnjioi(^»»'s
power, hod not been interpdned. Tho iniTmUe fjiveii W Joseph wnn. linw-
orcr> BO much the mot-o effectual, since the cam]*aigm of Boimparte had
nwaliened a ponerful emotion of nationality in almost cv«n- buropran
state. There arose at the naino time a similar feeling among the Germany
and even amoiij;; the S!iivonian!i.

The natirc tati^ia^-tif tho Hungarians had, in the meantime, [>ecn too
little cultivated or developed to loako it aceeptitMe to I'tlier nations.
No work of any imiiortjiDW lind bui-ii written in itj and it eomld not, lil:*
tlje Bdhcnitaii aiiit other la>if*uaxe-!> of the Sliivmiiait family, point to soy
past jierifid in which it had been more Hourishinfj. Nothhtg, therefore,
It woa tliought, eould better advance the proposed ohjeet, tiian tint e«-
tabli;>hiiieiit uf a Himgnrian litrrary Mneiely, which, while it should take
care to foster every n'rimLrkablo jnanifestation "f native talent, shoidd co-
courage the pubticatifin of grammars and di«ti»iiarie*, punue various
bran(;heHor{;^niinrnati('al and philological impiirr, should puLhih a literary
periodical, and offer prixM fur lliinfpirian wurlt*, and for essays on pro-
posed qiiostionx relating Ui tho native language anil Hlerature.

Aft*r the faihirc of mnny attempts, the society was at length ettnbhshed
in 1825* Count Szcehcnyi contrihutmg fiiity tlioiisnnd florins towanb il4
ftmdit, and indudng by this muiiilieQRi exampk many others to offer similar
sacrijiees on the altar of their eon ii try. A prcxident was nppointed, and
directing, corrc»i)ondirig, and lionorarj' members were cltoscu. The »-
dftty hiu now U-wn fifu-en years in activity, and possesses, besides a con-
ftidiTabli^ librarj', a capital of four hundred thousand florins. Many fhi-
lologicn], hiBtorical, and p(»eticaWorks of ivnuideniblc merit, liavt ulnfady
been iisliered into the world under its niispifct, nud their authore liberally
remiinei-aleii, and the sociity is, ttierHore, with respect to Hungary, wliat
the Froneh academy is for France.

In the antechaailicr of the hall hangs the \k^ portrait I have sren of
Couul SKechenyi. painted by Amrrliiig, of Vienna, and I wijih I coiild pro-
dueo on my paper, as well tis he baa done on his canvass, tho fine strongly-
marked fcat«n;». the eyes fiitl of fire, and the whole manly, noblf, ener-
getic cipression, wliieh render it such an iutererting spetMrncii of Hungnrian
oationEil physiognoinv. May this portnut long remain in the nnteclidinlxir
— for it i( u rule of tile sodety that the picture of no living member eball
be hunt; in the lialL

Much alleiition has been paid by this society to the dmmatic hraneh of
literature, and many traiisIiiti'Mw from Ucrman and French, and iotnc
original pieces have beoii pirdiicfd, by the aid of which it has become
pouibla to establish a national theatre at PestJi. Hitlierto there e&L>ted

ASP THE HUiraARLWf LAItOUACE.

237

sot Gflmuti thvntnM througlioiit thn «ountn'. A sum af (bur hun-
(livd tbouauid floritu wm graatcd bj- tbe divt for tliv nvclion of tliis
thsAtre, 1)ut I rannot say it a])]>ears to mc likelji- tliat tlieae efTorta will, for
th» BTtML'-iit, ut IcaAl, bt> crowned nith mueh vutrest. How-over grcoc itiAV
lie tno ontliuBiasm for tb« oau»«, the obftnclcf, I fear, am Httll grcjitpr.
There is an evident deficioticy botli of itutioiutl ilriimiiA, luiij «f actors and
nctnssei, and the Mag^'an ha*e certainir no jjoculinr tiilvnt for t]i« art. I
Tiu told they suo<!Ccd b«*t in tri^edy, which I ea.a t-tuiiy conceive ; hut I
bad the ill luck to tev mie nS thv'n cumrdiiTS — a Inuislatioii nf Scrilnr'n jiiew,
*' L'Art de Consijirer." It lasted, I dn not know by whM i-ontriranc?,
from MTCn to cleveo o'clock, though in Paris it never take* more than
two hoiin luid a liaJf. Of the tvrvnty-four hosei only ci^ht were occuiiicd,
and th« remaiudcr entirely eiiinty, hut the pit and gallery were full. The
more reBned |jftrt of the puhlic, it it »u(l, frequent the German thmtro
by preTwcucf, but the young loen, students, and othvrs, prefer the Ilun-
guian.

An Art Uiiinn luu alsci bvtm (utnMithed in Pesth, ufion the plan of ourt
ia Germany, iind I paid a visit tA its <-xhibiunn. The ])icturv» weic motUr
from Vienna ; huL partly from ^luuieh oinl iitlier Gerniun places. I found,
linn«tcenfe«, in tli« specimens laaw, neithtr fiti'cllpiice'ii(>r the promise of
it, althowgli t hare met in foreijfn (xvuntrici niitijfariftn painten of consi-
deiable merit ; but ihey were of German and not of Magjar de-M-nt, A
Toung- German woninii from Vleonn. whoso husband has an np]H>intinAnt
Pen, informed me of ati inaUnee of a iiind of national fci^liiig n<*ntiist
which, I trust, hia cQUutrtmea in j^iK^nil v-ill he on tbcir guard. It was
of a IIunKHrian from tlie interior, wlio bad come to the eihihiiion espect-
ing to Jind only genuine Magyar prod uotiotis, and who wad i|uite indij^Dimt
ai fcnnjf bo many picture* Ironi Vtenn&. He objected, too, in iitrman,
to M^ing the cattdo^ie prinU-d liulf in Hnu^arian and half in German, and
begin to tear out all the Geniian leiivtvi, without jwrcniring that in his rage
be waa destroying the alternate Tlung^nriuii i'fiK»'H also. The lady told me
thu in A whisper, and wa« evidently afraid of being oi-crlit-nrd, as aW said
tlie Ilungarimswen.' exc'crniiiigly tnucliy on pointi of this kind.

Notwithstanding what I )inv(> naid, I by »■> means %rish to deiiT that
Bungarioua ntay attaJn to eminence in the pictorial axU, I wouJa oidy
Bog'gvst tlint they should not be too hiU4ty to fetir t/tt (itrman leavet
from their eafaloffUf, leitt many a good Hungarian em* should be lost in
tlwprocew.

iTiii remark may apply also to tlie great exertions now making to intro-
duco the Hungnrliui Iniigunge. I'he advantage of eniploying a language
fo hit moTo cultivated than the Hungarian, as tlie (tcrmun is, apMon on
many occsstons so obviously, that the mtutdetenninud patriots find it hard
(o avoid duiiig' m>, and to feel lialf-oshnmed of tbeir native tongue. Tbey
tr* often oomptfllcd to intersperse, in their conversntion, (lennnn turns and
exprMokms for ideas, which they canm>t othcmiau moke iuLcUi^pbEc. Tlie
town police of Pettli is in general comptdlci) to speak Ocmtnii, lU it CAO-
not ntlierwise be sure of being understood hy the i^nt mass of the public}
and this is olio the case with another )>rancn of the Administration, that of
the army, (that is the ordinary stuiuling anny, and not the militia or in-
turrtttum, a> it is called,) in whieh Gi-niiaii in m thoroughly ostaUialwd,
that it cannot be diepUced. I notii.-^ al90 tliAt of all farirtuog, btUTMla,
gtord'houscs, buricn, and gates, tlie Iinpcrial Aostriau colour), Uack and

316 00BX, OR KUDjL.

yellaW} kppearvd in ttw place of ihe fsTOuriM red. gieen, mni wliitc, of
Huogsry. The banuhmtnt of what tuu hitherto betn ^e political knd
d^kjnutic ^)^;ua«;v nf IIuDgary, tltc Lfttin namely, will be tmaAcatatats
tMk ; I nv wiJl U-, for die mIiuIs matter u still to be ipokcD oF as infu*
tunim. The Magriir Iiuif^uag« has not, like the Gvimui, straelt deep root
iuto tlw bearte of u» people, but n^er rwciuUv* thoae plants wluch flo«t
IdohIj in the air. h nas been by low psciiulvtl front the le^idatire uhcih-
blia^ from diplomacy, and in a great meuuro {rom the scieiicei aitd frtm
ib» fcboob. £vvii u lat* aa Uw preceding Bun»n«r, th« untv«nsity locturM
CootJDUMl to be givrn in L«tiii, but tlie begiuiiin;; of tliii year was to b»j
the filial tenn at which the Latin laiimiage vin» to exjiirv. It waa thouglit J
that sui&citmt time would th«n have MOn given (or the proffMorf tn maku
tbi-ni.-'t'lri-s auiutiiiitvd with the Magyar tongue ; but I &acy this
prove, in many caaea, to ban been a mistake.

The Austrian covenimBnt has in geii«ntl not oppowd A(M atMtnptl afc
national aiid proviticial sejKijatioii in llic ecvcral states uultcd ucdci \U d^
aiitiiou. It tbiiiLit perliapi, " Dieide et imprra," but in order to make sura
oC iba imperu, it is iit haxt ueccwary to retain the luv of iU own '
intht aniw. If cvtry anoof the aatutnf cotnpMiiif^ ati Amtnan aimyi
to be rominaoded each in its own Un^uOK^, the whole would becoma
entiidy unmanageable. The question of the employment of the Hunga*
tiaiL lattfuagt, ewn in the anny, is nei'UtbeleH to be diicuawd in the mtb
dkti aod the present difiaTM Oca of opinion on tliis subject witli the govern^
ment luis occa^oned die handsome building, erected Tor a military Bcbooli
in PMth, to stand tiithcrto empty. The HuDgnriaiig have built it at their
own fficpansei and will not cotucnt to ^tc it up, cji»:pt on cunditiun that
tlic youug officers sludl be iurtnictod in tbnr iiotiTC Mngue ; thegOTcni-
meut, however, insijU upon (iejiiian bein^ At laBgusg^, and lietmcn tha
two, tlio boildmg iwniaiD« totally u^eleat. 1 shall be vuiioos to see wlofe
will be llie ermtual £ute of tlwse now empty tooids.

OrSN, OR BUDA.

The passion for cold baths which prevail* more, all o%er the Austti&it
monarctiy, than uiywliert^ elw !u (Jie world, and to wluch GraviTtiiberg
may peruaps Imvi* cunlributed, liiiiU nltundaiit o]>portunitifls of gratiHca^J
tion m Pcnth, and certainly if (here ever exi»tetl a rasHouable mani^
which promised wholcHome consequences, it is this wanu tutacbiiient to
cold water. Not only in tlie gn»t cities, but wen iu many of Uib most in-
signiflennt towns of Uic empire, there an exoell'eat establishments of thig
kind to be found. Not only are there baUis on Uto Ell>e, arid the Danube,
and the Moldau, but on the 8avi', theDra.vc, and the Thciss; on thfMaros^
and an the Koras, and on the X<*u«iod!or Lake, so that the nver-^nd may
be eoid to jraur his bcaltli-jpiio^; Soods over the hacks of tlte whole Austri&a
monarchy. In all public institutiont, iu schools, in bos|iila]a, iu mad*,
hoiues, and more espedally in the army, cvcMy measure is adopted to pro*'
mote the abandant mc of cvld aiid snimniio^ batba. In Vienna tlicy ore
on the moat magnificent icalo, and tlie mililary man and the civilian, the
rich and the poor, ladiei and gentlemen, young and old, heoltliy and sick,
find tbcir way into the Danube. Th« rirefbutlui of Pcsth atv of coamo.
OB ft cmallcr scale, and more unpretending in their style, but there is :

OPBV, OB BTFOA.

deScieaey of any rtal oonreiiieQco. TbETc ue b«ths of all kmib tod miil-
ahie to M clwsM, ftnd aa tli« mtruicw, on the niA< oa wfaocfa dWT floa^
are io general ticltl^r deuorMed with flowen, with > bright Unannan flag
waving Ctxxa tha tup, thmr may he vonwAend ornamMital as wdJai wwtfiil

Tbe Vuleauic hot hatha on tlic Ufen side, which I hmrv already mca-
ttODcdt ant frcquoatcd by W'aWiiifuin, Scn'ionit, and I'urk^ whilst the
rivcr-hiUhs of P»th rqjrtatiiiit lh« Ganiiaa or Wart Eniopaan c-lFnienta cf
the eouniry. Th^ fimnrr might bo called the Vulcaaians and tiio Inctar
Um Neptiutiflt*, amoDi; whom may gi^oeraUy be oouoted, i*^d«3 tlic Gcr-
maiM^ the higher claaaea of Ilutigariim!*. Thia diflbfenoe is the two citin
mav be trsoed thnrngh many nUii^r |)utiviibii%. The people of OCen have
hoik their oi^ oci VulcAnic j^rouud, on choJk hills, and hy th« white dart
oa tlH»r clutncB, they may generally be recognised ; the inhaUtaiit* of
Peitli hun enctfld their dwellinga on a landy depottt from tlut river.
The vjdMeDce of the Lutfr u bawd on couoioiee, tor which tht^y arc in-
dAfatol to the river ; thnt of the fonocr on thrar TincynnU which corer
their hlJla, and vxtend for lemgiiea beyond die town.

Hhu pouiik' of Pcsth are in nJl tliu^ the ^nat rivals and antagooirta
of (ha people of Ofvu ; and tlii; people of Ofen, althoagh thev cannot nt
BO nucn as a ^ood pia or a ball of padtlhreiul without miming over uie
hndge for it to tlwir n^gfabaius, and depend on tluee nei^hboun for the
MiifVBi|>tion of thtir wines, are never tired of disputing witli and depre-
tmliog them. Ofeu a built aa thv rig-liL bank of llie nrer in Pannonii,
which ha« alwayi Ikvu the part of Hungary mo^t indueikCMl by Grmiuir.
Pcatli liei on the leH hank in lite 8tO|>i)pa of Dacia, and hai thrown itmlf
with fat man ardour iuLo tlu.- recent M&j^yar movement than ita noter citT ;
and has alto, as the AmvriuuM m\, " gone ahead" Gir more rajndly in trade,
in the aoquirencnt of wo&lth, and in grtin-al matertal development. Purth
haa nKu almost » iih the rapidity of an Amtricou aty ; nhjlit Ofen, oecn-
pied chilly Mich tlie ncred aita of Triptolemus and Pomona, lies like ■
qoiet aoontfy town by the tide of its bustling neighboar, and celebratM
ui» rajitenM «f Ceraa and Bacchos. As on mort ctber euljeoto, a dif-
fawiTB of nfiJTwm also exists bctwn-n the two towns oonccniing their
napectrre ongin, eacb rej^rding' hor<>elf its the orif^inal, and the mother
of the other. Aj the oariy hiitory of both is very obscure, it is not easy to
decide the point with certainty, but the nrobalnlOT in certainly in favour of
the fertile hi Its and slit-ltered volleys nfOfiii, nvertna »aadf of Pe>t}>.«ji^UHd
to all the winds of the deserts. The Peathiatu are the etronger par^,
and DOW Hut ther are advuncing' mi their rivulet oror tlieir now bridge^
wiU proh^y BwaUow them up. Tlie Ofinrrs arc much opposed to vba
p roJBc t ed anialgamation of the two cities under th» name of Duda-Pesth,
■s they oonsideT tha-t they would in that ease beoome mere mbject* (tf the
Path boreomiuiteni. I ilircrted itiy >tepa one mohiing (after a prepara-
tory dip ui the Danube) thnn^ the eilcnt^ durty, sunburnt streeu of
Ofen to &at quarter of die towa wluefa may be eonsdered a< uniting the
eatTMieepds uher history; aboundingin Booian antiquities, Roinau butlis,
Roman tomb«, Ronuut fortilications, and linving on the little island of <Md-
Hnda wbieb h«s opposite to it in th« itver, the new do(?l<vards, whenro the
new steamboats are laundied into (he Denabe. Thcw ducks werv built by »
Paatli shipowoer, awl the whole island, which \» ovcrgmwii with laigv tnei, ii
oeeupied Dv then. There an not lees tbiui fivo liandred paopki oomtaatJy
omplojai an thuni, Erom couuttias czpcriencvd in sliip and boat buildiDf }

S40

OFEX, OB TnrDA.

wanmg Uwrn I finnd eight or iua« £iiglubiDeo, fifty or eixhr lUliMts, from
tb« Italiui fOttt of Aiutru, vchicti fnniish bridgv luxl ^hi]i builders for tbo
whols Dnnulxt, nn*) Bonic from iha Rhine mnd mini SvriUterlBnd, who have
•9D» experi«n«« i» the st«funlioats uiedon iaiand IaIcm and nv<-». Thera
were ahn Dutchowa antoo^ them. Eleven itMrabosts have bF<ni Inuiidinl
from thia donkysnl, and thotv an not in tlifi whole more llian tweuty on tlie
Dvtubo nnd \u tribiitancs. Itis ignnt dUoidvantAgA ta theso resceli, tJiat if
ftny If pain for the machinety arc required, they aro obliged t^i be aeut to
VieuDii. Oa the whole, aceordiog ta what I hmrd from onsof t)iv Dutch*
men engaged here, it appean that the engines are made too Bniall, and the
vcMcU ait) too heavily ladcD. Ko lesi thao two milliott iloriua' wi^rth of
materials in iron, vroad, ropes, chuuc, )te., have htcn mMrxtcd on this
iilaiid and t\vfie when made up into utoamboaU will, it may fairly he atiti-
cipatMl, yi«)J to Iluiif^arv sii nnipiv inturcrt for the capital invo«tC4l.

Among the vewcls ulill on tho stocks, was one iron one, the thiuoess of
which HRiiLzcd i». Giitz Ton Berliehingen, mid Kum voii Kaufungen,
woTp thi•^ll01' plalM on iheir hreuts. Some chains niiuip in Kiij^loud, and
othcn made here, were nhowti to \u, uiitl ii wui a difference like that of
<lay and ii)g;)it- I tnixt I ahall never have to lie at anchor Mith atiy hut
an Rn^liKh eliaJn.

The Itomau remains lie mostly ndowava from Old Buda, and are aaid
to be partly sunk in a marsh, bul I did not rtsich them, having spent too
much time in the Mftr^rLn^t'j Inland, searelun^ for tlie remains of an an*
cieut bath wfaiuh arc oiJy visible when the water is low* Aa there is no
reason, from tho iiaturvof the oiTound, to Bupnosc it can hare nunk, thU
lui^ht afford a standard by which to e^itimace how much the level of the
l>imuba has been rained sinoethc time of the Romans.

Tlii5 Mai;^rct'a Island in about half a, niilo long, and wry narrow ; it
bnlougi at prpwtit tn thi> Arciiduke Piilatioe, who has chimgcd tiw whole
Burfaoa of it into a beaudful garden, formerly open to thd public at Urge,
but now only to a few riaiter^, ou acuount of »oiiie injury done to thii |)laR-
>»tiona. A convent, a church, and Aitiiie honxes wrru erected here hv the
prinoeM Margaret, dau^ilor of King Bela IV., but these wcr» afterwards
laiil in athas bv the Tatan.

Extendiiit; from the town aJon;^ the whole shore of tlie Danube, lie re-
getfthhi gaixlens, producing piinoipally cucuiiibept, melon*, and immense
quantities of apples of Paradise, ai they are call<'il. Thoy reminded me
of the Bashtau!*, tlie Tatar vc;^tnhle gardens of South Itiusin. Krery
garden is [irovided with its own well, and at a certain time of die dajr
hundreds of the^e wells are to he seon in full activity, as the soil is ex-
ceedingly dry. In tlie suburhi of Fc»th arc also many vc^-table (gardens,
but thc«e are almost enUrely ot'i-uiiicil with cabbages, for which the people
of Hungary have uu •xtn&ordinarA- partiality. There fin< parts of UW
country whore the peaMnts aro in the habit of bvilini; a htis>? pot of it at
the bef^iiiiing of Um week, and waniiingv it up every tiny. I'hey maintain,
that the oftener it is warmed up, tin; better it is, consequently iievttr ao de-
lioous aji on tho itcventli day.

W«paMed to tlic Caatlu Ilill throiig-h Ncn-difl, rind the VFa*er Town ( the
two RUMt villanous parts of tho city, inhabited by a population made up
of odds and cnd», from ail Uie natiunu r>f Evirope, Italians, Geniian^:,
Spaniards, Poi-tugucse, &e., fragments of tho Austtian army which be-
dogcd Ofeu under Charles of Lonnine, and recovered it from thu Turks.

OPEN, OR Bin>A.

241

^fter the conqoot of the place, tbej- rcc^fed grants lA land luid settled
here, and hav» loo? since become so completeK' Germaiiii^J, llut th«y
caa he disiinesishea by little else (liati their luiiiiea.

Tbese Euoily name*, utd tin; iuihilii of tlie diQVrvtit lulls are ucaily all
tliat remain to ipeak nf the days of drully strife hy wliich tbe«o fertile
Undi h*v« besa m oftra laid waste. The Swaliiaii liUl when tlw G«r>
mans wen cneos^ed ; the Eag-W hill wh^ro the <i<>iul bcndii*! of thousands
oCTuilts ven deTOored by great fli^Iita uf taglm, &c. Of all die build-
ings that covered the Castle bill— tlie auAiif ni the Hutigariim ViiAyr^, tlie
ChrUciafi eliurehes, and ttie JMnfiomodan t«mpW — seiu-crly nuo uttsnp ii \t(t
Ufoa aDOtliar. Tho trrriblc devaatstioas to wKich Iliin^niv iim been ex-
posed,— fiom the Tatars on the cast, m the thirtwmh cenlury, from the
Turks on the sontb in the siitc^nlh and sevi-ntoenUi, and tlieir tierce wars
with the Germans aiid otlicr liiompvan tiationa for tt« po»cHioii,' — have
rwFpt away the traces of former grratopsg more completely ilinii in any
OlJier capital of Kurope. Moscow, Cracow, Warsaw, iJotTCi(liitnn<lin>r the
leniblc atoniis Oi«y lure pajiwd tlirougli, liQYe tlill moru antique remains
to nbnw than tbo pcincipal ntictt of HungFLr}-.

There is aa annoury oii tliis CsstU> Iiil1 said to contain armt for eigh^
Ibotuand men; and among tlio ebjcctj nf interc^ preiervpd in it ix come
■muKtr said to hare beau worn by Attila {jiruijablv not geaulne, but in-
tcrestioK &am the long-continiicif bt^li<?f in iti aimiKntJcity), luid tlic nr-
Bunr of Ziska, llio renowned Hii«sito lioro, the iron of which is so thick
tbat it s««ms (cucely potsiblo that a human bein^ could have worn it.
fiereral of the pieces had to bo screwed together on his body. Thure is
aba ft relk of Uie French Revolution in the ihape of a red cnii of liberty
meanted «b a long pole, ami a thick silk hnnner, once earned by t)i«
Austrian crusadcn to Palestine — which, if it really mndi' niii'li a 3'^^"'*^^>
is in EUipnsin^y good presenadon. There are beeidi'i. baituprt of tnc
French Republic, of the Renpubltca Cisolpina, and of the Carbonari of
Naples, tin; latter reprcscutiiig a cap vf liberty bctwceu two dogj^n, with
LJi* words, " Efftuilianze o morte.' Siihordinttziont nlU Irt/t/e mtlitari ;'
m curiotu collection of trophies! but tliey may serve tn ]ioiiit out tho
interest wliivL Hungary hw tuktrn iu these vaiiuiu occurrences.

There are in Ofen great magazines of saltpetre, an article produced in
tlwM«ppes of Hungary io as great abundiuive, luiil of » gmiil n (jnnlily as
h) the (sJtpetro diUricts of Tndift. The llungannns, Slnvoninne, and Rus-
aians call this article HtJniter, nr in Magyar Saletrom, both whitrh words
grs prolmbly comiptinni of tlie L.itia vioruatal nUruni. Out Mhenco coines
pur word iialtp<'.trc ? Dom it, porhnpx, originnte in a coufounding of the
two words nilrum and pelrum f The <|uantity of this ar^clc exported Io
Austria is usually ei tiina.ted at ten thousand hundred weight, and smaller

rntides are exported to Poland and other uounlries, the latter chiefly
the «e of drugfpst^ but at Presburg a great part is mode up into
gmpowder.

Tne Castle of Ofen, the lesidEnco of the arehdnke Palatine, stands on
the lite of that of the ancient kingn dcmoliihed during tlie Turkish time,
it ia a spacious and liundsomu builduig, and its |>a!<ilion U coiuuiamling,
Init llian is notliing very renifirksble in tlie interior. Tlie princij^Hl

rtments are adorned with pktures, battl»-piacas from tba evciils uf
thirty years' war, Maria Tlunaa in her corooation lobce, &e. By a
courtesy, whieh in Hungary is seldom denied to .<iirang('n>, we easily
ohtaiaed psnaisNOn to riut Ike whola caAle, including the apaitDienti

242

OPEN, OB BUDA.

of the BTcliducliefis. On tlu> ubU b bar dmibj^room. Ut a portrut of
Zuikcndorf, a biUe, and a petitioii to be pTtsenUd to 1\m on h^r rvtiira.
Ill her iiaual ntting-room stood t afnuninj^'whccl— und & littlo hariequin,
and some plitvUii»g« for her diiliucn ver« Hiog about. On the walla
of tliia room hung the portrait* of tho Arvhuuke Stcphfii, and hu twiti-
BistCT. He is au active, intelligent, smiaMc vouDf^ man, aiid is a great
favourite in tluagxry, where he is rc^itnlrd as (lie fiiture palatine. tJioce
th* last iininilstidu ctpecialljrt in which he made great and IteneToUut
•Mrtioaa, lie lias bean aoMtliogly popular, and liia portraits liave becD
much iimltiplied throuyrhout tin rmpirv. The early death nf tJio boau-
tiftil mid ainiuble l*nncesa Ilelinine, his iLitvr, has Wu a subject of ge-
neral and siDcoro lamantation.

Tlie proqwet &oin the wiiulov-s of the ca>t]«s tli« najoctic breadth
the Danube — the mij^ilieeiiC qu:i^ njntiiiig along tlte opponte sliore — the
eity of I'osth with iu far stretching suburbs enoircli!d by u» distant forej^
M tndy mognificenL

In ono wiR^ of the castle n«id«i no Itn a ;>mnRa^ than the" Coromt
enm Clrnodih tuts." Wiene\-er one heart; a Iluitj^arinii ^[icaliiiig of tfais
baubl«, one eau hardly help lancyiug it mnst bo (oni« beloved princeiu aud
httr eliildri'ii. It Km an a|tu1inent of its own wlucJi do one is allowed bo
oiitrr, niUi an niit^chatnbor where two Khihsra keep wateh day and night.
It has a guard of its own of sixty-four man, who have no other duly Utaa
tlie very enCvrtaiiiing one of relieving guard in this chamber. Thnr
Wnnrk nr guard -hiiiMc is situated oppoKite to that wing of (ho oa«tlo ia
■which the crown tvfi'ift. Ill* windown of its room arc u-ailcd up, loavinf
only two air-h»le«i, and the door is of iron with three mii^hty locJis, the
It^y* of whidi at* kept by three great officers nf die empire, II lies i
ail iron ehcst with a costly lininj*, loeki-d and Healed with the 6ve ssel
of the king, the pniuate, thv palatine, and the two other koepon of Uw
crown.

At coronations it is tnken out in the nR>sence of all these oflieeH^
escorted by il« "wd ^uard to Presburg, »na received by the authorities at
tlie bouiidiuy of eaeh c<imiiat. After llie ceremony it Is returned with
the «ain« |>niiip to the ftately seclusion of its own apartment^ before whicfa
two greiiadiciv ngniii keep watch anr) ward.

In spite of all the care with which it in kept, there is, perliapfl, no crowo
in Europe that has seen to many vici«<Itudea. It wtu once in pawn with
the FlniiH^ror of Gennanj, onee for a '""g timn at the> raatle of a nobto-
man in TraafvlTania, once it fell into tlie banda of rohbera, and Jo*enli II.,
to tile great aissatUfartJon of hi* tlungariaii mibjecln, nirncil It tJ> Vienna,
Its return, under Lenpoid If., wfw like n triiTTn|ih»iit pniroiwion. What
ocpeaied to me roost curioiw nbouc ibis crown wa^ tliat it contcf half from
the East — from Cniistantinople, and half irom the We*t (the Germanic
RoiMii emure), from Rome.

The golden ring or fijecheaii band wna presented to the nungarian king
Geytai m t076y by the tipiptror Docas ; the two pieces arched over the
tO]i are fragments from ttie crown letit by Pope Sylvester, in tlie yooj lODO^
to St. Stephen, Ait and workmanship, language and charactcm, are also
strikingly contrasted on tbo two (idv«, the one being Bynutiue, the other
Roman, and thai the whole seeniB symbolically to reprencnt no less the
0DOgm|iliienl position of Hungary between the east and the west, between
the Italian and Greek peninsulas, than its religious and political reUtioai
coiinocting Byuiilium and Itomc.

'"Iff 1

saeto^l

24S

rmttlC COLLECTIONS.

Tho collection* tlut bave u jPt hvmi made at Pmh an uot of much
in)|)ortauce. Tltia a ov'iag p&itl)' to Uic Tuikisb tptrit uf dainidMNi from
the eaft, u\A tbo spirit of ooBsenation of die Vimni ixxniu frnm the west.
(It u ».mn^ tlia.1 al every Ehadi topic that aruM m Hnnouy, we can
■aldom »)iajM^ our T*fl«£tioa pr^r^y, till wo Iwve caat oiie ^auci: towaiU
the liaiDg. and another towajd the Mtting sun.) Thi- Tmki luiit.- tliv Af
stmctioQ of innumerable conreut libfariM to answer for, as wall aa that oi
tho cftlcbntcd librai^ of Corsinaa, whioh had b«en fonnod at Bitdai and of
wImIi a fxkrt vju burut, unJ thv rcmoindiT dispersed otct all Bumpe.
Tlie seal of the coUeclunt of Vii.'niiti has, ou the other hand, deprived llun-
nty of inuch of late yevs, fur as soon aa any ihin^ interesting; hta bcOQ
dmoTcnxl aaywhvru iu the country-, \'ivuiiB lias ffviii;nil}- hud rloiiu to it^
better pricea for tb!nga of real vawe hnag obtained there. KevenheleM,
there is no lack at P«rth of cunoutioi of one sort or pn"tliT that will well
repay a straoKcr for the trouble ha tskee in lisitiiig thfiio.

My lint «uit of this kind vas to the Hunganan National Miucuni,
whien was founded duel!/ at the 8ugfi;ciilion of Count Sscechniyi, who ad-
Tascad a coowdcraUe sum to start tho undertaking^. I was not able to
see all the fine tluDfifs preserved there, for in consequenoc of a new ic^inple
for l!ie Mines being in tlic couno of con^truL-tion, the whole coUectJon had
b<>eti removed to another house, and many arttdes liad been packed awi^.
The cnlkction, couiidered a* a natiomat inueeum, U ttlU rerv iiwompUrto,
though it contains excellent speotmens of the miiiermlogy of tne kiu^om.

Among the xooloncal tpeouaent I raw tlio fj^iuine Iluiigvrian sheep,
the rai>« that the ancient Magyars brouglit with them ov«r the CuqMtliians>
ftod which is now becoiniDg every day umm acnrce. It lua larg^ horns,
more tliaa two feet in length, standing wide apart. The people of the
country know tlie auimol und«r the iHUQie of the Magyar liott, or MtgjV
aheep.

All llie Hungarian lubes of the Danuhe, tlw Tlitan*, and th<^ Baltklon,
of wlkicb to luaay, well seasoned with /Mprika, had, at rimoiu tioie^
fi|rtir»d beibro me on the taUt, were to be bc«u at this muaeuni, either pre-
served in spirit, or coiefblly staffed and nailed up against the woU.

The vojioufl descriptions of herons also were not wanting, tho birds whose
CDatlkem are particularly aoui^t for, oi decovatiwis for the kalpahs of the
eotisof the UnngviaB mwnates. The pvrple heron tuu only two or three
black fntfiers oa Us beaoTand ttx-se, the most expeaiiTe of Uieir kind, ore
deitiBed only for die boimets of the highest and mt-M wealthy.

Among ue specimens of the line wtt*, I stopped to admiic, witii some
intercat. a piece <tf embroidery, rvjinnuuting the partisit of tlur: King of
Hungary. Tho artist, it seems, was poaseased of a uLera of white sUk as a
groujidvtotk, but htong too poor to purchate voiwurvd silk, resolved to com-
plete her work with ber own atilfum lialr.

In «ue room theto had becui oolleeted a multitude of ihinge wliich could
hardly fail to be of great historic*] value to the nungarians ; such as s
nl^er shirt of mail that had once bduoged t« Stephen Bathocy, and various
otlier pieces of armour eutiobled by those who in their respediire day* bod
worn them. Among the uins, tno most remukable ftn the sword, the

244

FUBLIC COLLECnOKS.

bow, Mul the vTowi of AttUt, whom tlw Hurttwiuu delight to dengnat*
u the Hungwi&n Napoleon. A battner ii IUmwin iboira of tli* ool»-
l>»t«i] iiiMirgetit RkluM^, vith the mottn^ Den* non derelingtiet Jiulam
eautam.

Id a few years, wben tlw buililiiie I have epokca of 15 (tnUlxK], tint ia*
tenatii^ collectiou will male a very ilHTncnl aiipranincc (rom what H
doM now. It wilt, At the mate time, be much enlar^ ; for smerkl private
eoUeetioM b^n bMui purchu«<l, with a view to their beinc t<ddw], and the
Utisenm of Pcttb wiD iImii bo rntitlcd to take n brcnnuiif ptw^v aiuooff
tbe museums of Europp, anil will present to th« Imntnl world mmDr a
tnasurc, the exiEtcnee of which pe^ha.plisatpI«wntspBI»elyltDOwn. "niB
I9«w buildiii); wliicli is rapidly lulvanciu); tjwaids com^tioai will b* ft
sjil^'iiiliil pil<! of Krchit<.-<'tiin', mid ilo DxtHTrmu nn-nti to be siured upoa it.

Tbv omy objeRlion 1 liavo to it is, that it ii pke«d too fu- sway from Uie
ctntral part «f the town, and ia a quarter «ccup«d chiefly by imiall aad
mean-lookiag boiuea. The prewnoe of the museum, hnwever, may hare
thi> elfect of gradually improvmg tlw ^llft^t(^r.

The tint hall, on mt^^nti^, is to be a tort of pAnthMtn, in which the ata-
tues of HuDg'iuian her»ra and diatin^tshpd men arc to be erected. Uad
the iirchil«et ei)ii«ulted me. an unprejudiced layman, respecting the propOT^
tionn of thi* hall, 1 ohoulfl hare told him I coniideied it a great deal too
lofty, in proportion to its Irngtli and breadth. IIk liall 15 only i'urty fo«t ui
diameter, aiid Keemed to me to be ten or twelve fathoms hiijh. It haa, in
eon(e<|iieneo, thn air nf a tower rather tliaii a hall, and two rows of laag
thin coliunos. one row orer th* Mhcr Iiht* to support the whole. On
leaving the Pantheon, you cnt^r, right nnd Irft, upon long- ru'ttet of rooms,
running rounil a tjuadrangle ; and lu thero am two floont. lie«ic)«i a hue-
mt-nt »U>n-, Uktc will be abundance of spAce to afford tlie IlungariaiUl
rooni^ for mniiy years to come, for the exerci-ie of their antiquarian acal.

Of tlw libraries of Posth, tltat uf the IjuiviTnIty ii the niiut (mmidenhle.
It contains OO^tlOO volumes, and, like ino«t of tlie praisewortJiy iimtitutioni
of Atutria, uwM its existtnco to Joseph 11. In the anteroom nf tbe
library is a nUc of another great Hungarian colleetor of books. King
Miitthias Corvinus. namely his coat of arms, wrought in th« red murhle of
Neszmely, which is still in such general uie at Peith for architectonic do-
coratiuiis. This coat <if unnn, 1 was tntd, was the only particle of tbe
royal iinraw of Buila tliat wbh not destroyeil during tne period of the
Tiifkisn occupation. The crr.-st of Cnrvinus was a raven with a ring in
lus beak. It «eenu that in his youth, n giildi-ii rin;^ wai stolen from htm
by a raiTti, which was AHid by lits sooihxnyrm to denot« much and gr»t
good fortuiwi. Wbtn, at a i)ibMX|uriit period, he had reiuon to faelteve
IM prophet^ bad been home out, h« took the raven &ud tbe ring under hia
eepecial patronage.

Thece wa* much analogy between the chnrortpr* of Josepli and Mat*
tfuai; and it might well reward th<i trouble, nere same one to institute
a Eompanson bi-twcen tliun. Josqih, according to a well-known anec-
dote, once drew several furrows with a plough, in Moraviit, that h« uiight
be able to judge from his own experience what the nature of the laboor
wad. An aiiccuotc of a similar cliarsctvr u told of Corvinus. When be
was once holding lits court in the (liiniiir comitAt, he proposed, one dav,
aft«r dintier, to liis iioble gueets, to go and labour iti a vineyard. The
Idog himself, a vigorous ciad lirelj y^uag man, wi-nt about hii work with

THE JEWg or PBflTH. 243

rigbt good will; but liu nnUe usUuinU vfcre toon tired, and beg«n to
eomplnin of the exniions ramurad of tlMnii. Thereupon the kiof^ difiuiucd
tliwn, hut urg^ed tbeni, at tan tuae time, never to fiMg«t wlia.t InUiur it
cost the peMaiit ti^ produce wliat they often expeooed witti so much
leritv. JoMph tnd luuhiu botli ditnl in the prime of life, uid the tlcsth
nf each was ■ mffiml for iVJcMciii;; to lh>> prolnUt and tho oligarclu; of
•oiTow and Uineotation to tfa« dtitvai and ucofaati^'. At Jo>«ph'ii denth,
the pt&sants cried out one aiid nil, " we Dave lott » father ;" aiul when
Con-tDtis wan tnlu^i from tlieiu, tlidr in}in{^ was, " with hint jostieo ia now
dead ill Hunn^ry."

In the large nail of the libraiy, I found two old globes, executed at
Venice at the time of tlie l)og« Morasitii, nad two new onet of niodoni
BunffaTian manubcttm. From these 1 w&j ablo to jucEfi^ of tho proj^rcGS
llu! MiigTKr lBt)^a|*(i has oiadc, tlio e<|iuUor, itiu ecliptic, and most of the
oniiKiellatJons haviuf^ already received tWr M>n>rsl ITutifpirian appellations.
Amon^ the books I toolc up, wtu a sper«h by Count Balh^any, debvered
on the inai^umtioii of a HKinunieiit of Joaepli II. I esiKxicd to find aa

t tioffe of tha dtoeuad «mpcror, but found to my tntiituv one of the then

Lknnff tovuMgn, Ftmneia.

With picture-galleriea Pe«th ia rety pooriy sn{>plie<I, tho«e of tl>e Huii-
gBTian maptates wltn interest tlieioselves for tiie fine arts, ba.»ing llieir
eolloetionii (^)erally at Vienna. The only line pietureM I nw at Ftwlli w<>ra
thoM of a merchaiil, of the name of Uutr, who u an enthuiiait for tbo
BTts, and a member of no Icm tJian six furci^ ocudctoics.

6teller.

THE tZWS OF PESTD.

The -whole kingdom of Hungary contained in tit» year

1785 . 73,(XK) Jevr* J .. . e. _,

18M . . . 246.000 „ 1

1»37 .... 25-1,000 „ )
Aecordiof^y in tlw yvar 1842, if we take an 4verag« anuual iucrMW of
.8000 K>ub, tiicir number must liavr reached 270,000. In tifw yoan,
themfore, the Jeir» have more thau trebled In Hungary, wliiUt the wbda
poptdation of the couatr; wat in

17H5 7,000,000

1839 IJ,9"3,00O

1K42 I2,U0«),000

The whole population, therefore, has Dot neariy dottbled) whilv the
number nf the Jcwm haj trebled. Tliit ii a remancable tad. 'Sext to
tialicia, Hungnrv >( tlmt |NUt of tlic Au:itniui empire wlitcli contains the
VKwt Jews. Gaiicia. indeed coutoim oa mauy Jews tt Hungary, vhUe it«
mtire population in only oncchird as great.

Although there are parU of Hungary where thoy ore by law frftiidden
to settle, tuch m CroMio. Slavonia, and the Military frontier, yet the Jews
have nln-nj-s playrd an im)iartant put la tlua conntiy, and there were tune*
when all the money nud Erode of the couotry WM in their hands. In Inter
times, Joeepb II. in vain laboured for their social im]irovvmont, and the
ditft >« now occupied, ill imitMum of Utc other gaiitruuienU of Europe, in

946

Tin JEWS or rwTB.

extefuUng tlinr rij^U, ImprorinK their character, wid ameEomtiDg^ Ihor
condition, by grwliuillv blending them nith the reit of tlw popuiatkia.

Siue)i i« done bj tne J«w« th«mwlvea taward* the furtaMsce of tliia
object. >ad the refimi of the Jewah churcbcs md ticboalfl it Berlin,
Vienna. Ptigoe. ud otlwr ptaoMi hn gma rd impulse to sim]»r refonna
ia Hmguy, The Jewuh c*<ni^r(^tion of Perth, amntuitinj* at prefl»at
to 1400 £uiulic», arc tulluwiug ibc i-.\uni['li> >ct tltctn by th»i of Vicuna. Tbs
J«in hen an diridtrd into two pnrtic*, I'dte thoM at Pragve and Vienna;
tlion who anpport the new and thoae who support tbs old tyKem of things.
Hy leamed Rabbinic*! &i«ad, M. Schwab, plays the part of a mediator
l>etve«D the two parties, seekiap to conciliate tlieni by evcrjr meaos in ttis
^lower.

The J«wii hen ar« limilar to those of Bohemin and Poland, from -which
countrin they han rMcared the most fre«]tient rdnCorcements. The
SpanitK and Orienta] Jmi/f, of whom tliere ia a nnaU tytlniij botli here and
at Vienna, are luid to hn ()rcr«a«tnfj in nttmban. Th<wo Spantsh Jew*
came origtnalljr op the Danube ^m Constnntinoplc. The immigratioa
&Oiit an opponte clirMtion. from Poland and Bohemia, eontinues even to tho
prvM-tit day; and Bhonld the liljeral intentions of ihe la*t diet, which would
enable them vvea to doimm landed pn.>pi-rt}', be earned into cSect, Um
iimnigmtion wiD continue to inciran-, and the Jrtvs will Veep flocking
towarda Hungury as lowardJ another land of promL<».

Four timca even jt»r a large number of Jem os-temble in Peatfa from
Moravim Sdeda, Cncaw, and Lcinber^, mAny of wlioui tivm laotingooa-
nexiviit in tht> aty, and remain here, The motit industrious and en-
lightened ar« those who eome from MomTia and Bohemia ; indeed, tliu in-
fluence of Bnbeiuia uu Hnn^^y is alwars lieneficiiil hihI improving. I
have Npakeii al>ove nf tlic intlueixv of tlic^ IV)lieniiaii mmmfacturcn who
come to HungAT}'. Of Hw kIx t^m-hen at tlio new Jewish school of Ptstli,
four arc BoliL'mian«, and only two [Iiin<;ariana. The influx of w<^l-in<
formed and intelligent fioiieminii Jnr« will probably be somewhat leeaeocd
by tliv circuinstant-e. Uiat for the future all teaehera in theae (choola are to
speak and toa^-h the Hungarian language. The native 3cvt of Pesth have
taken wp the caujc of Mugynriiiiii with grent rmiI, and there arc many,
among whom mn- *everal Jeniili Iiuli4% who $peak nothing but Iluogarian,
take ID only Hutigariiui joiiniuU, n»d affect to detpiu^ evoiy thing German.

1 viiit^d tho hc*t Jewish bov^'-w-'hunl in Pcjth dunng tho writing,
drawin", and history lessons. It (iinlfiincd tlircc hundred scholars, among
whom I law litde beggar-boy* in ragged jaclaHs, rented *i(le by side with
the ehildren of the riclieat meroliant^ in the city. The children who are
taken in their cirhtli, ninth, and t<>i)th jtrttn, apeak only German, and
■ddom nndeatana the Hungarian tonguo; they learn it grammatically ia
the lower, and Bpeali and write it in thp upper classed. It is said to be yeiy
difficult to find competent tcachcra ; for the Jews Imre nevi-r l)eeii ac-
customed to write tlic Hitrigarinn languagi". Tlif Jwwa of IKuignry and
Poland linve a German and a llebrGW litcruturo, but no other.

TIte method of teaching hiat<>T}' uicd among the Jews of Petth
ftpjienu'd to me very good. The tvachcr fir*t dictated to tho chiU
ilrvn A xhtyrt skeleton of the suhieet in hand, eontatning the principal
filets, with named and dates, which they wrote down and Icomt by rote
ftt home, after wliich ho |>roceedcd lo relate the wholo in d«Uul. This is

THE HOSPITAL 01' ST. BOCllE-

347

tmUj t))« only proper ineUiod of tcacliioK liiitory ia tcboole, and H >• ■
gTMt pity it is not more gvncrallr itili<;iu-J.

I notjcnd Cimt nonio of tlx! tulioliut luul irriUcn down a Itiir Hiin^^arimi
words OH tlipir tlati«. It contAincd a. petition for wwim fclli>w puyii, but
it wm some tinio before the tnasler could dn-ipttcr and Hodrrstaiid it.

The lUbbU of Pestli lead a very rciirM Ufi!, alnioit aJuravi at hi>nrut,
never goinff to any tli«&trv, and v«ry wUlom to any other place of public
Mill— iBnt. My acquaintaucc. M. ScKwnb, t«ld lao tlmt many Icanicd
J«wiib boola ara now pnntod at Zolkicr in Galicia ; but the Talmuil
nUBt alvayi be pHnt(^d eilber nt Vieniiu or Prague. Salibach mid Dur-
rciifort am alto places wbvrc many Jvvtish bitolti were forun-Tly published.
Tlii^ ndc about the Talmud. pn>bab!y owe* ita crigin not to iiny dittincC
law, but to certun difiiculties m the orthodox manner uf printing it, whioh
«Ari only bc> owrvomc at tliv great printing eitabllsbment^ of Praftu« and
ViHiuia. I saw for instance, in my friend's librar)-, a Wgn I'aliniul in
^tii«lv9 volumes, printed at Vienna; it was n Ba'bylotuan Talmud, fur
B^M of Jenitalcm is bcUI in I««s c«t«ent here, as (liroiiji^hi>iit l)i« Jewish
irtrld. The .VwAmn and Gemara wen ininted in lar^ letters in the
|]itd<lti-, and round it ran, in snail kitt«tn, a lm^:ul Ixuxler of ni>tej, reRiarks,
and explanstioiu, by the celebrated Frmich Rabbi Sulimntn Junchi, wboM
vpiiions aitd ofamrratiooa are Iicid in great voncratioa by his natJOB.
Ifouiid Oii.i a^iii. in still sniallrr Icltvn. tliiws onotliGr bonier of learned
snu»tatii>nti, by different othtn- u-li^bratMl Rabbit. Is not this svtulxilical
in aoiDS tneasure of the *>hi>le J«wiiili ty*teia of religion — a littlii test cuf
troth aad wiadom toat ainid a fluod of learned wordy jargon ?

THK UO»rtTAL OV ST. ItOCHl.

]t in ft womewhat melancholy fikct, that tlw trun^ftHf, xealofls m
they are for iJie attainment und nrwcrration of politsca! ftocdom, have
forgotten to take pn>eaulions for tlie bodily h«-alth (ind vorufort of ihntr
. Boorar eountnmeii, and, whilst sdmirtng the promfulitudt! with whieli
IvMV ftmuilMa funds for the building of the national theatre, the Ilun-
gunan mnaeiim, and tliv^ magnifioMit bridgn owr tli<^ ItiuloW at Pesth.
vre in vain intfniro afW th« provinon made for th« eomfort of their poor
and (heir aick.

Ill all tTungaiy there is not one hospital, pooi4ioun>. alnuhouae, or luna*
lio Barium, mippnrtwl or instituti-d 1iy govennnoiit. Tln' care of The poor
•nd vtt tici dcvoIvM entirely (with the viceplioa of a few liospit&ls ouiJt
fay benevolent private indiviJuala, or by tlie mn^traleA of towns) upon Iho
monks and duus ; the state docs nntliing for them. This is not bo moch
tho fitulc of Austria, u of the Hungarian aristocracy. It is almost in-
credibly and yet it is a vreU-luiown fact, that in the year 1793, attentioQ
«aa firrt called to this state of things by Dr. HafTnei-, in a " nropocal to
the public of Pesth for the ereetion of aa homital." By tlie influence of
this benewlent physician, the Hoapilal of St. noctiR wni at last fiiundiHl.
It u DOW nnder the superiutendeiioe of the universally respected and ea-
tMrnad HetT von Windiich, the tuecessor of Dr. UuFher. The pnwnt
Ripcrint<-ndent lias ver^- much rnlargcd tlic building. It is now capable
of containing three huudnnl patients, and is tlie hirgMt in Ilungary. In

THE KOfiPITJO. OF ST. ROCHE.

ft. FcteivWri VieniK, and Paris, then arc hoapttnla capable of contaio*
tag M mtny uomsndi.

It it not mv puipose here to |>;ivc a fiiU account of tbii honiit»l, which
I am indcrd not capable of doiii^, but mervly to collect » fw facts of
general tuterwt re$pMtin^ it. It contains aoiii<> momt for luiiatio, a nry
neeeuMy provition, for io nil Uuiigary tbrre ts no Iniiatic asyluin, and
Innatica an gweiallv c(>ii6iM>d in tlw cominnn criniiiial jails. Tbu ia
iDUnded pcfupt to nHnp«-iiEat» (or t)iv practice jiuciiued in G«nnaiiy and
Bnmt nthcr eouotriiM, wh^ra criminals arc ofi«n mercifully considrM^l U in-
aaoe, and seat to luoatio asvluniii. The Uuiij^iaiu am said to be funotu
and miscfaiDrona vhen mad; n fact wlii*^ tbeir choleric a»d ntL-lanchoty
Umnenunent rend«n vary pnibabla.

Swh crimioala m also oHen wnt to tb« I]o«|iital of St. Roche. This i*
not ri^lit, for alt tbe cominaa vulgar prerjudices affainst hmiiitols nrc liable
to be coiitinned in the minds of the people, when they see them used,
tbouoh only partially, «• plaoos of eoa6iMineDt for crintinali. All prisons
and nouses uf ccnroclion ou^ht to havo tbcir own infinnanca. Tlir pr«-
mdC sysum is, besidM, a great encroachmeriC anon the benerolence of the
foundon and Bitnport«ra of the institution, and a cerious hardship to th«
excellent medical olFictm attached to it.

The Ilirlap, a Journal nf which I hare already sereral times made men-
tioi>, rocordu tlio astoiindiii^ fact that no fpyrer than 2-SO corpses tm aa-
auolly found in the streets, of whom no oae knows where th»y conio from,
or how they died ! I wiut ti^lil nt tlie linspiinl that this number was gmoaly
«xagg««tttou, and that »ii aci-uraU) ci^mputatioii would reduce the averaga
mmiber to littl« mor« thftn t«t'enty-fi\-c. Even this iiunitier, however, ap-
peared to me osionishitigly large.

The country about lliv lower Danube, tlie Banat. the Balshks, &&, if
Icnown to be eoostantly liAblo to inl^nnittent ffivers. Teraeivor ii con-
lidured (Iw centre of Llw fever district, but in proportion as wc ascend tin
river wo come to regions leas and IftM Dubjeut to fever. The summer of 1841
liiid been one of tlie most healthy ev(tr Icnown at PeaLh. Tlie weather hail
been very b-jt. but free fri)ni any sucldcn varlatiou. This must have beeo
benefici^ ui general health, for tlic hospiul thnmi^hdut the summer con-
tained leu piitiunts \jy one-third tlian the uauiil average. So sntall a
number hnd never been known to be in the hospital- alncc its fonnilation.
On the 18tli of July, (lie dAy on which J lu-nnl iiiin, tlie tlivnnoineter
stood at 42^ of Reaumur in the shade.

During- the t^iirihle inundatioii of March, 1838, the Iloipital of St
Bocbe, which wiu the largest and strongvA buildiDg for some distanco
round. c»nt^ncd no fewer lluiii 400CI inliabiUnts. All tlicrRe who lied to
the hospital as to an ark in thn waters, wero supported there for three .
days fnun the funds of tlie Iiospiial. The rations were dealt out to then
iu Btnall and prudent portitini, under tho snperiTiLeiidtnice of ou eicellcnt,
benevolent, and energetic ladv. with whom 1 hod the honour to become
pCMonallv acquainted during my stay in I'estli. The fliwid ri>*<' ropidly,
but tlic directors liud had ttie timely caution to remove all the patients fron
the ground-floor. The situatian of the lioipital, with the mournin<( and
despairing thousotidi of hungering, oiling, and dying human ereaturee
whom it contnued, inwit liuro been at tlio timo indcocribably drewlfuL
jVfter the intindation was over, no kss than 450 drowned bodies, mostJy

THE EOfiPITAI. OP 9T. ROCUB.

ibose of chQdran, vasbed up by tlie waters of Ihe riv«r, or fotutd in dia
Miv<ts> nerv Iftid out iti tliu couit}'Unt of tliU liofpital itlnuc, tliat they
aaifht be owned Ity their friends. I have of^cii itpokpn vrith tlie in-
liaailanbi of pMth nf this calnmilr. and fniind t}i«y all ivmembered il only
with *Iiiidd«irin^ and horror. Tliey told me that no inis^nation could
conjure u|] a picture at nil i:h|ua1 to tlir t.erriblti tnilli. I rcinvnibcr bcnrin^
an old a|>oilienu~r >■>( Biiila cxclnitii, " Ni> jifx't, or norvlist, or dramatirti
could jMitsibly imii^nc or dvscribo the actuiil liorrorB of that drradfhl titne^
i£ a (pwtator had QOt«d down the fiicU as thor occurred, thoee wlw liaJ
not witnessed the inuDdatioii would iicter have believed him."

Th« water began tu Hm on t)i» 1 2tii of Mnreli, but it mifi^ht h&vt nund
off aa hnrmlAialy a« uniiaj, had it not been that « little wAy below Perth,
the ice instcnd of tnelUn^ began to accumulate, so a« to check the proKTvu
of the riling water. T\xe ritcr now began to rise alarHiiiigly, and the
jwoplff prepared thein«clv«« for an inmidation (uch as the dly h&d often
vituesaed EtcTorct but they little thouj^ht they 'wcrc about to witncM one,
■ucfa U pMth in never luppoied to bav-e teen linoe it ha« been a city. A
Xiiiinber of workmen were let to worlc to construct dams, Just below the
town, fur, coulnrv to the course of niiture, ihi; nutcr rose fi\>m bvluw.

TlioiiriantU of citiu-ni, urged partly hr Oincwity, anil partly l)y nnxirty,
went ont to eoo llie building of the dams. It was n loiip ('itnben waJj, to
which numbers of workmen were bu»ily adding, and against which ibd
■wild »nd ntpiilly riniug water* beat iiirt^-iantly. .\lreftdy things began to
look verj" alarming, Tim wtittT row aij<] rose, the military were onlered
out to ajui«t in mi«ng the daniA. In mtin ! The angr)' flood dcuniAed tha
wc»k obatHcIca which human hande nuKd to oppose it. AVbiirt the work*
men were busy piling up th« dants, they suddenly remarked to their
amax^ment and terror, that th« Danube waa already roaring behind them.
The dam« were undcrminod — they broke, and only a Hpc«dy retreat could
save the terrified multitnde. All fled to their houses, fullowtd by the do-
ftroyinfwalers, which rapidly gained upon tliem. The atieets were com-
pletoly emptied. The lower port* of llie town were immediately taken
' pow c a a ion of by the river. Ewry uiiv began to fortify lils own houae, and
[ t0 lunouiid it with dams of earth, boan1«, and »tnnei>. The inhabitniiu of
^tba Vaimer Straate erseted dams of parrintlar strength. Xoinimdatinnhsd
war been known to naofa thia rtm-t, and tlie inhabitantA felt |H>rfectly sa-
cure in thi* circtimstance. and in tlic xtn-riglh of tlieir cUnts.

Th«irdAm8. it is tnie, held together ami were not broken by the water ;
but OS in great poUtii*] ramruuione, the tlormy clementa ofuai fcora to
attack the bulwark rwr^ agninst them, when dv passing round it tliej
can aceompliih tbelr aim erjiially well, and baffie the short-iighted wisdom
of politictanit, mo the Danube now began to ihow its strength, in a totally
itDexpccted manner, namely within the hotu«s tticmitolvoi. Allof anjdd«ii
the boards of the ground-floora began to shake, and littJe bubble* bi appear
■n over them. A ruling, iplaining sound was heard bcnentli, and all
the little cncki and rat-btdca became so maUy fovotaiiu of water. Vorr
■ooa the Danube was daslung througb all the bmuliful ahopa, grouDO-'
floor*), cellara, and worchouies of the gtvat Vni:mer Straise.

The inhabitanta did not lose thrir tir«ence of mind. They daslied into
the wabrr, and brouglit up their i^iet valuable* into tlic upper stories. It
Wat nnhoard cf for the water to oocae k> high ) it could not possibly liia

sso

THE HOSPITAL OP BT. HOCIIE.

Uglber, uiil must eoon ank. But tho DttnuU now atood nz ttt/t InRVi
tlM houM». To make aannnc* drably Airs, llifl inbihitaou letnorvd to
thnr ncood floora; for the tteiube had now ruvn teu r««t witlun the
houita. Hftnj pcopla bad bmn stuiding up to their mwks in water, in
Older to gft »,t thmr dakigvd property ; but tlie wstor wu fnxTiiii^ly
«oid, liko imwly-m«it4id ke, and m«y could bear it na Imgvr. foot
and ricli alike gvte up the »tti.-n)pt to an llieir property, aud tbougfat
otilf ot'life.

^ Tha ground dpon wliich Perth rtsod>, b of soft allnvinl fomialioa, eoa-
nstiii^ only of loould and day. The Danube was now only claiminf; ita
okl righu ; nnd it be|^n to fonn fiubtemnviin «|UHlucta and canals. In
onp )ioiu« which hud di-^p toundaCionf, thn bcuLnbi suddenly me, and the
flood threw up a liu-^ tliick jar, thi- pn>{>rrty of one of th« DCi^boon. It
Iiad been torn alonr tlm>ufrh on** of tli* ■ubteTranc&ii canak, iLod thus euri-
ooily rwtorad to light The apothecary of Btula titkl me, that, to his
grMt siirpruv, a hii^ piece ol fumiture, whicii had b«yn left in the
grouiid-tloor when ibe inundation began, was aTicm-ards found atandiug
luffirht in his fiist door, irhitlior tho torrent, dashing; upwards, liad car«
ned U.

The tlitclcnctts and »)ttdity of the houws wu no protection. Man^ of
tlioM.- m<wt itrangly built. w«re entirely broken up by tlie (ont> of die nnr,
and fdl in. On thu leeund lUy the Hood was at ita bin»ht P(y>]ile began
to doubt wfavthrr any of tlie houtn would irmain tilandioe. The stiAnfreM
buiMiaga, such aa tho churches and hospitals, and tlie highest qwts, radi
•■ the Nemnarkt of Pcoh, and the SchloMberg of Ituda, were lUled with
fitgittrea. Great nmnbcn of pcoi^e |hut op tent« in the NcunioHct, and
iled there in spite of the intense cold of the weather ; among these were
many nobles ukd magnates. Whoerer bad not much to lose at Peatl^ fled
to BudL The eittzc^ii* of Jlnda sent orer small boat*, oommandod by the
Archduke Uu-|dien, the Count SiMx:hcoyi. aud other noblcio«n, who row«d
about throu^ tlie streets, and picked up etviy one, who was wiUia^ to
laaio lui hovH).

Tlio ininidatioQ had ddw lasted two daya, and showed no ngni of nV
adiu);. Many begun to iinagirv (hot the eul of Pesth was come — that
the I>auube was forming itself a new brd, and intended to swallow up the
«ity in ita wavte. It was ^nerally bolieTM) that the whole surroundii^
distrk-t wu chaased into a great lalie, whkh would nerer dry up u^n.

At length on Uie tliird day the watera began to retire, llw icy barrier
fivmed at the island of Cxepel had jmibahlv nieltod. the ri*er gndnuUj
flowed off in a louthcrly direetbn, and h^ft ll'tiih to recover from it* ooM
bath aa beet it miglit. Many streets were so choked with tooli, iraU%
Tubbiab, boArdt, and tlie boilii<s of men and animals, that it was not tilt
afktr aemal days of hard work, that they were rendered pmiaMei N«trly
ttree thauHndlioaau were deatnyed; some had bUou in, aud others had
«ntiraly melted away into the river. The alent mdual inflnance nf watw
had m three days wrought Boni miiehief than a Eundred daya at bonfaat^
fltMrt would have dcxta. The appearance of the city after the inuodatioil,
ma desolate, nunoas, and miserable in (lie cxtirme.

I do not know what appearance tlie othm- thorn may have prvwnted,
hut those of the bookveUerv, I was told, were filled with an extraordinary
stock of papier machi such as I iierer heard of before or since. Goethe,

THE DAK U HE HT TUB CmTSAI. PIiATm OP nUHOAKT. 951

BtUlbr, SluWipaiv, Vohaira, Jean Fkvl, — Freudi, Enjjlish, G«nn«i],
md Hu^^sn boake, — all le^n Mftaned Dod mclhxl tof^UtLT ioto oam
■trwiK« undiitiaguishftlile mi«

The crj' for belp of tfat pocr rtniMd ritixm» of PesUi, recmniiled thini^l)
■11 Gennanv, and gtaenat Mnstene* Mrewned in fietn pvvrv side, lliilf
Surop* united in tlw nbuiJdiaf^ of Festb, aai though liniliTing^ nuiterida
irvrc of coone vrnr Aeiu, yet tho city rose agnln fnira it* nitnti, iu vroitnds
gradually bailed, and it bccanui fiu nxwe bMUttiiul and Fxtonsivie tban
DofoR,

THE DANUBE IS THE CENTtt.U. PLAINS OP nUNGAKV.

On the Inst day of Auf^ust we «&t«nd tbe alMmboat vbkb wu to coa*
TCY u« down tbu Danube into Tnrkcy, and the anchor was weighed at ftro
o'clock dw niut mombijB^. It was still night, and (he moon seemed un-
willing to yield dominion to tlie raininr day. Seated upan x bench upon
the deck, I viewrd the river u it luy bcdore me. 1^ Dimtibc is only ^50
fiiUwMiM bnwd botweeu Pcstli and <>fe(i. but immedtstety bolow. it widens to
itiina (UBM dut fanadth, and enten tbe iMond Hungarian nl&in, which
i itntcbM from ibe DDuntaiBa of Centx^ Hungan to tboae vl SerrU oad
SlanNu^ Between the Bloekibaig: of Duda and the liillii behind Pntlu
the two citicB Mnm to tic within a Xuttrti gab^ mid the xtivit !« brautiliil.
The 8c)iloMberg with it« itat«]v buililiiigt ia tocn in th<^ dittAnce (luou}(h
i this gate, mid ia the oeotal pout in the prospeci. As the mo rase, ereiy
' tiling became more diatinot, and at length it stood «>niptetely abmt ifaie
iMuixon, gilding the distant tumniitd of the bilb, and illumiiuiing the whole
laud«c4pe, OS if to ditplay it onoe mora in all its beauty, to tlw gno of th*
depajtlog tnTsUer.

These ore the last bills seen, and we now entnvd tiie broad plains of tbs
open country, and. paascd tl»e Urge iolond of Czepel, witb ita fertile fieldi
•ltd meadows, iDtvnfnened with naniig (brents and uniliop^ Ttllngai.
Leavii^ tins itdand beoind us, tre eiitered the moat vuntei^sting district o£
all thoM watet«d by the Duube. Ho great towns enliven its banks — no
pbturesque hills or niountaina my its acetiery ,- vide undivmified lercls
strptch awny on evrry side, covered witli inxnihy gnnand dirubs, intemipted
only Wiw ani! there by banvii d^Mrts, with low monotonous banks. The
tigat side of the nver la higher than the left, and the villaf^ which lie along
the Danube, are all on the right aide. The other aids i« almost entirely
bvmi or niardiy.

We did not, however, find our voyogo at all tedious. We bad more than

1 400 paawDgeis on board, and such numbers of eauitisgea and bales oFgoods,

were |)iled up on deck, that we were intlier crowded for rootn. Our fellow-

puMtigcra Montted chiefly of market people, merchsnta, tntdennen, Uun-

lyuian nobles, Servians, and JUyrians, who wero returning home from tlio

tgicat fair of Pestb. We dipped tlti>m at difTerent stations on the baoks^

I fihioh they proceeded inland to their res^xM-tife hotni>s. Besides tbese^

We had on board Waloehion boyord?, who wrrc irtitmiti^ from a tosr, Somi-

nish Jews bound for TliiMnliiiiiii ii. French and Germans bent upon seelong

Uteat fortunoa in the tnoviiioet of Tiu-key; in a word, specimens of the po-

; pulMion of nwst of toe conntnes Imnlenag on the Danube. In default of

' iot«riat in the pasnug oouutty, I turned uj attaattoo (o the little eonuno-

luly around nut.

S52 THE DASUDE IN TUB CENTRAL PLAINS OP HUIBGAllT.

TIb anitrterdmk nu wliicli w« were seated, near the entnnoe of tlie
firat abui, WM Uw little capiUl, the court, and the eitade) of our flMting'
colony. Near u» rat lonie Hnnu^an mainintcs, uiil Rinnng them tlie
caUbroted orator, B— , wlio su diftinguulied liimself &t Uie lut dieL
H« VM » littW niun of a r«.tl]«r itieijpiiftcanl &ppearanc«. H« snoko
little, but WRS «>nu.ti]n«)( occtipivd in rauliiig n newHiwiwr, an<l aomet^nies
nink ii) deep thonglit. Hv waa wry ninply (1n-<»vt1 aiid nii}i4T tliiu, and
Mt u littJe as he tpoke. He traa l«avhi^ Peath to cpoiid tiir KUinnuv in
ilia anjciymviit of rural tranquillity on hti catatea. " 1 lave ^ou scca B— ?
IX) ^nu knuw tlmt D — ti oil bi>ard?" were questiona oontiiiimlljr put to
me, whicli provod tJie jioitulArily ho enjoyed io Hniif^rjr.

The Walitcliiikn Iw^vif'^S "l><^^ mund faces nnd ravmt Mack hiur ithflWAd
them to lie such, spoke onlv jiut German eonugh to get on with in on
liott'l nr coSee-hooae, and by way of comj^Iiment to ibeae ttrBngeTi a
little drclc waa formed An the qtuutatdMk, in wltioh French waa spoken.
To this circle a rt>uD[; Fr«nchinaii attaobcd himKlf. He was travelling-
to Jasay for a rarisian house of hwinw. on whose accouot lie was to
form Borne commereial establlsbmeot in the Mnldavi&n capital.

Tli«n.- «vn plenty of gtiod citinnu aod cibtcuwiK* of Pe«tli, goiuj^ to
visit their frii-riut and relotioiu iti tlie country. One f^mp juartinuarlv
AtUacAed my attention; it was composed o( a Genruui luly of raiik, witk
ber fihanniug cliildrvn playtuc about heri mid diacoverio^ every moment
ft thooMnd now Miuroes of uelight aud amiuement witJiia tlte namnr
llHlti of the uiuLrt<<nl«A.

The epace octwoen the ^{aarterdeck and the chimnpy wim <*owdcd with
wcdtJiy mercbaats, Germans, Serrians, and Turkish Jews, Among them
was a jirvtty youn^ Serviitn ladv, who niijrlit have nerved a painter for a
model of ft Pcwiatj priuccM. Slie wnro a Tiirkt^h nfifli^f ; her cloto rilk
uiiJcrclothn, and upp«r palinnr edged with fur, bcciuno her cstrcniely.
Her bWk hur was laad routul her head in two laxge plaits, like a turban,
and was omametited with pold mn* fattened to larj^ pinn. She wore a
red cap, or /rz, *mbri>idere<l with ffold, from which n biuhy ta»el of gold
threadu huit^ down ujion her neck, around w}iich she wore a long^ gold
diaitu A gird!*' vmbniidered with tilver confined her slender waiec,^
90 tlendor tndcitMi, Unit I thought she could scarocly hav« more of ft
backbone than might have falVit to Llic nhnre of & nnake. 1 expressed
•ome surprise at the splcmhitir ofhvr undrem to r Servian gentleman Etand-
iof naar her " Oh, ynu tlinuld see her dressed for a gala, eovered with
iraU and jcwdi !" replied he. " That would surprLte you much more.**
Bhc was piist tlic bloom of youth, for !thi> vsm 22, niii] at that age Serviao
hidies lue no longor young. Sho hod, howevn-, bwn married 34 ▼«■>*•
*■ lit Servia," continned my informant, "girls are often married wliiie yet
mere infanta."

Among the passengers were also two Franciwin friars from Turkey,
or rather from Botnio. They wore broad-briuunod hate and mustache*,
ftud spoke not a word of German, but wen? able to make lliemsclves mi-
dent«>od in Latin. Tliey hod tinished tbnir studiei at F.rku in Ilungary,
and wore returning thenoe to Cxek in Boania. Th«y told me that then
were indeed Kchools in Bosaia, but that they ould only leom there
" ffrantmaticaiH, rhetoricfm, poesiam: ted jihUompftiam ft lhitift>tfian
ahwlwrt in nastris srkolu impoanhih ett. el eanim gratia in Ilttnga-
riam tnumtu.*" I heard from these men that there an; three couventa of'

tHE DAirrBZ iir toe CESTBAL FLAIKS CT tmXGXKT. »58

•iVwwiwin nouk in Bonu, waA trnder them « little floek of ibeat 1000
CatUSm. In l^nkuk Cnwti* tbe munber of ClixiftuDS i« odd to
be greater, tlie p rin cipel |«it of the popilBtioa cf Beams belonnd-.
fbnurly, uid Kill Mknp to the Gnvk dnirah, bat fsost of tbe bi^ar j
«Immi mo DOW J f a h o n wd M w. Boania waa oac« a Huagaiiaa. dapnd-j
oocT't the Hvajesiona an ae eager lo recliam thii oU yaweeaioa as A»\
French &» to be maiteR of the left bank of the Rbtnei The FranciacaBS >
told me chat titctr eoaveiita rec ei Tcd an aninal nrtient of 300 thAleNa
from the Pnpc^ aod 400 th&lrros " a refft," that » from the Emperor of
Anitna, which uraaents wvnt tar to alleriat^ tbe extreme porertA- in wlucb
they lived. H m aiB^uUr thM of all the DumenMu Cutholie oraen which
Umtteriy Bournhed to Boaoia, tbe poor, ignorant, and mendtcaut Fraoda-
cani have been tbe ooty mooks who have kefX their pontion. aiid been
pcnnittod by the Turks to remain. This ia owing to tlie nature and cha-
racter of tbe order ; for iu porerty did not e«ute the avarice of the
Tuilcat ae waa the caae with tbe naoj wealthier otdera, and the striJusg
naemblanoa of tbe FnmciBean moan to tba Haboonadan derrabc^
may have eontribotod tA gito then a aort of *aactitj in Turic)«h ^refcj
Be the reaaons what tbey ouy, it is the Franciacaa monki who aloiM'
nounah tbe faeUe flame of CatbiJie Chriitianitir throogfaoat tbe Turkiib

Eovineea^ and in Jemaalem tbe Fianetaeaaa are tbe only gaatdiand of the
oly Sepulchre.

The Walachians were ipealdne French, the fair Servian and bcr cotciis
Serbian, the orieotal Jews Spanish, the Boanian Fraikriieana Latin, the
captain Italian, and different other paaaengen were converan^ in tbe
Greek, Hnognrian, Widachian, aod JUyriao toogiiea ; bui aniidat Ibii
Babylonian confusion, German appeared to be tbe cammoa neutral graaoi!
on wtiieh all m^ and tbe tie which bound all together. German wai
fpokcn br ouraebea, br the whole party on the quarterdeck, and by Ura
crew itself. "Aa Italian captain mixed up German imTol terms continually
with his Italian conversation ; tbe Serriani apoke eerjr good (iermAo occa>
siouaJly with other passengers ; and wcu ttw Walacbian boyardi liad •
Moall sniattenng of the commcn language.

The (team navigation of tbe Danabe baa, I am aware, been lookeii
upon with anxiety hy the Gemuiu, and with delight by HuDgariaB ,
patriots, as likely to excite yet ntom the feeling* of iiatiofs^ity and patriot-
lam among the . Mui^-are, bat it appears to me far more likely to Gcr*
inanire than to >lsg\ariBe the interior of Uungary. It will undoubtedly
«arry the seeds of commercial and literary enteqirue into the remoter
parts of the country-, but it will likewise (wur into Hungary a atnmg ■>•
fuuon of German manners and mako the German language eren mon
general than it is. The ftrougbolda of Magvansm are in the bairen
plains and 5te|if)es of Cuiitral Hungary; and tlie more those plains and
atenpca ore tamod into fortile oomfielda and paatnrea, and tbnr stragglin?
Tiifages into proaperoua town*, — tiia men the net of steamboats atxl rail-
roads is apraaa orer Hungary, die more it will aasimilate wiUi Gennany,
to which It owea theae benema.

Towards ei^niag we landed at our fourth atatioo at Baya, whidi lia
Ob tlte Uifi side of tbe river, at the distance of half a 'German miW
from tliv wanli e a of tbe Danube. The buiMings of the Yillage peeped
biigbtly through the bushes in their while coverings ; for llaya had
tba otttAwtuue to be burnt down last year, and has been entirely rebtult.

SM Tn£ DANUBE IK TUE OENTEJLL PLXISH OP mTNGAKT.

The destnuticxi of Baj» by fire, wu oontemporaneouR with that of nuuty
othsr HuBgwtaQ towm. IndMd, ct diy Mouon* of thr yror, » regular
fira epidemic someUcnas dMUqn half th« tomu in Uungaij.

Ffom Baya wa proeeeded to Mahm (prononnced MohaUh). The
nettm twfora our eye* TtmtaueA always the lonie. Ore«u plainx vitH
Bme-treaa and poplan bo Un left* iugh barroa >borca to the right, and
belbte ui the broad and beautiiul Datmbc Ai we aat upon the quarter*
deck, an old soldier come limping on crutoh« towards w, and baring made
SB nniiiil Co our cliarity, h« T«lat«d the story of hu misfortuDM, vrhicli may
nrre aa an illustmiiM of the suH'eriog* ana daiigvr* to which the •oldi'cn
who guaid the military frontier are azpased. On tba 3 1 at of January^
1836, he had been sent to carry a mMsoge from oiki of tlio posts on this
famtier to auother. Ni^tt tnerUxik liini before his return, ai^compiuiittd
fay » Tiolent eao*r-etonu. \N1iile he was itruegling a^iut tlic itlorni, he
beigan to hear the howlinf; of w-olves around him. Hi; at Knit went on as
&et M he could witliout miudiitg tlicm, but tbty camo ii«a.c«r and nearer,
and al Itit he was obliged to climb into a Crere. He was indtwd loie bt
the time, but. lie n-as a doco pmo'oer, for the wild beasts aun« muiid the
tree in gr«at niimb^nu Thev k«pt walking round with wild and in««e-
■ant bowling, looking up at the tree, and sometimes cnniching as if to make
a aprinf^ upon him. lie (itmI, but without effect. As h^ was afmd of
their etimbing up, he endeavoured to make n fire to fright«n them away.
IIo scmpcd together a fvw dry stick) and eotne mow upon the boiu|;fasp
aad with Iiii Hint and tiiider he managed t') kindle a small flame miidi
warmed him a little ; but the wild bnuts did not leave him. TheeoUt
grow more and Qior« intense, aud be felt a numbnces stealing over Liim.
He therefrirc txnmd himself rouod thei waiit Graity to a Htn'jug branch,
aad clung rotitid it witli iiil hie *(>«ngth, iti urdor not to fall into the jaws
of the ferocious creaturos. In tbin poiition ho wiu fntind ibc novt tnoming
qmte insensibliG, aiid to all appearance dead, bv aomc oammdes who came
to look for biiii, lie recovered, but remained a nipple for life, for Ijoth
bis legs wMc frowm and liad to hi> ani]iutiLled. Ho was now returning
from Vicimit, wliitlier bv bod gone to p<;tititin tlic vin|>cror for a email
pittaiicii which he liiul received. Wc collected for bim a small pecunuuy
addition, and gave him two " pistolee" of " Turk's blood" to drink. It
may be necessary by «ay of espt&nation, to add, that in Hungary a small
measure in coinnion use u called a pistole, and a rertuiii kind of rod wna
is designntod by tbc tempting name of Turk's blood.

Wp had a piuntcr on bou^ who had often compkinod to me tliut he
could find no picturesque subject for hie canvass in any tiling about the
rteamboat. I advisijd him to paint the soldier in tliiMnf at t)io moment
whan hi! wiLJi rowfrring over bin ftn^blo little bliuu-, w)iil« thmrigh the dark-
aeM gleamed the fiery eyes of the bungry woivca. whose dark outlliiea ua
ird! BJ those of the forest trees corered with snow, would lie partially seen
by tbe ligiit of the scanty tire. Thin ap[>eared to ma n vcfy good «abjee4
Mr k nignt ^neca. He was, however, of opinion tbiit a common story Irora
«o obscure and vulgar soldier eoukl hardly txt n fit subject for his ptuicii. 1
answered, that, with such notions be would neTer become gront ; for the
most beaatifiil subjectt and lituatioas were often assoeiatMl with tiw most
common event? of Ufo. Dianumds are not found ready cut and poiislicd
io tlie mine!.

Wc reached Mobacs by aightfsJk It was hen; tbat poor King Louis of

TnE DAKmiE TIT THB CETfTRAL runw AT nmOABT.

f Uunginy vas betn.y«d bjr ZtpdrsL, and defmed by iht Tterk*, aaJ

: ID a d(»ol>4e msnb, to irtucli be had fled (or vletT. Hie Wtk of

I (winch took pkn in tli« jtsu- lo26. on tlw 2901 of AiwHt)d»

I aided tbe bmIukIioIt fat* of Hungan-, ftv its oon^oaM bjr the "ntHa wm

1 tile couMqtttneeoC that battle. Tin j i imj^ lTiii|^ 1 iiaii, ■fliii hiililii^ ■ Jjit^

' irhow siUiDfi much resembled Utc uiinianaiu merniaenl of a Bacehanaliaa

.fitMival, liud ttiardirt] u lliv head oi 20,000 lacn agMiwt Saltan SoBmaii,

'«ho«cB>myiuanunteJto200,000aoldi«r9. Loou' g«CMrib &MawIr«g» tnr

the foUv 01 their mtdertakinc, and said in jest thai whoever mrrtred tbe

battle uiould go to Roine and get all the real ooonixed, for vrciv one of

ibcni would ecstainlj fall a martifT to the Chmtian r^jgioo. Bnl, u if

'MTgti fonraid by an tnrsivtible fate, thry went choprlut^ to meet their

. Jeetmction ; indeed. % nimgarian author eiclalnu, that luraly no inn^om

cwr faced itd downfall witli meh careless lerity and raeirinMnt ta Hm-

■ gaiy. In thJH battle fvll no lew Uian nx bubopa md areblMbnps. It u

is rairions tutancc of rMribiition, that SCO yean aftcnrarda the TuHu were

|4efMtod on tlua very field by the Prince of Snroy.

T The ronniT battle ia celebrated here crery 29lh of Au^vrt. He popo-
tlation of Motincs and its naghlmuHiood uacinhlo oa tbo battle-fido end
speeches in tlie Hiiiifariiui, lllyrianf aad Gemum langoagw to oa*
ler, I ]>on (he spot nii^re King Louis died, it t* pmtowd to erect a
1 Jtatpd. The palace of the Hiabop of Hcivta contaniH many plans
I pieto re i of lh« battle, and Eve cannonj left behtnd by tbe Ttirki are
nrred a« ralica in the town. Ai our *teainba«t atoppeo to take in coalj
>Iohaea, m imi aaoflo time to empty a ^am of wino in hoootir of ibuM
[Sntercatin^ renmiiiW mtiiHnty: jet of all minneati thn preeent ii in
iatn the most hMam^^ aod looiantie ; for it ii the flower and erawn of
all pntmlior BWiBCaAa. the youiig«*t bom cpf time, round wbotn ig col-
lected all the gkej af A» past, and before whom the future lies a dark
unexplored ahyw.

To the old Ronaw whose doll taalc it wu to make a b«ginninv
to its hinoiy, how iuluealing must have a|)ficarcd ttits Danubn, wliivli
ira> tonsiarulvd witball thediamu of a long erentful histor)! And
liow full of an intentt n irpn aa i ng all tliat we can now feel mimt ili«ti
hi>lor\- be (oa traveller 2000 yettn lic-iice, to wbom it comM bitlim witll
the ncli fruits of tlte iicit twt-nty cvtitun(«! I alwayi lament that 1
was bom so early; nf all tilings, I dionld Kks to have- been bnni in tlw
last ag^ of tbe wm-ld, to hav« beou the heir of all the agoa in thii (iinttnoib
; film rif Tinw t

TnwanU midnight we preceded on our way. The poinngwfa bagia
I to retire to r««t The l&dJes' cabin a^d the state cnbini wen eranmtd
fiitl of ladies, and tiw deck was strewed with the peaaants and ntlmnh who
laid tfaenifelTea down enive]np«d in tboir Hheep^os. Soma of tbe gmtle-
nen lay down on the (juartordndc ; othen, amonjD^ whom wu I, iirefwrad
Tctning to tlic i^itlmK'ii's cabin ; but no mounr vrere nil mritled lu tltaJr
a, and ailcuct- bet;an to prevail in the cabin, than cerlaia miachJevoiU
tid dtminutivi! littW beingi begnu iKinping about (rom line to aoothn in b
loet toTtncnting maoncr. I could iii>t conceiv* hiiw tlip poMcnger* coukl
'lie so still and creu go to *!«]> when tuffcnnr from their attadu ; for my-
eelf, I thought I should be eaten mi alivo if I TSroahied mui-h lou^-vr. I
acooniUngly went on d«k, pn-femng to spend Che remainder of ihe night
in walking to and (n, aiul rouiuiapuitiiag now the daik river and shiutng

S56

THE BATSnEA AXD ITS OEB»AX COLOXISTS.

■tan, ud now the Ttkri«a4 «ipres8ire oountoawioe* d thQ aUtfimg |iai-
Beo^^on. Thfl liumui countciuuKv i« to me a souras<^ codleat luterwt soil
delij^ht ; and in the coaWmplatimi of Uie natiofud Atid uMlividtuJ peculi-
anties of pfa%-nagnofny tfoand me, 1 found aniplo tntcftAiDiucat for the
mD&indrr of tlie nighU

mE batshka and its oeeuah colomsts.

The moming toon dAwncd. It ia alwajri An uit«ToMu)g thought to me
to muefnW, wfaeii tii« tun tika, that the day bcforo mc u the youiigtet
day lliat lias ever beea. Yesterday (I speak oCcommoa jrcstcrds)r«t UO'
dUti!if^i«h«4l by auy remajkable occurrenoe), yesterday ts like ao «x-
tiaj^Mlicd liffUt, ail old iiuwfpupcr, ,1 pitxit of (lolv kniad. It haa bMQ
KBthrrpd anay into tliu ttorca of thv jmat, niid ynr think of it no laoro.
But the young day nses before us, fresh, bt-autifut, porteiitoiu. To>
morrow ia hidden in the dark w«i»b of the futiirv ; the ittibom ctuld of
Time ; but to-djiy a ripes n»iy, and near at Itaad. The worm rar> of
tbu fuii xliini' uvcir liw anaii Danuba, and wake the ^leepvTn with its kmdly
greeting, which announces tlto cumiiig day ; yet, near ai it is, who kiiowa
what it may bring forth, what mighty events, wli&t strange occunxuccn?
How many future geiierationi may labour to 6nd out wliat this diy was,
und lu>w it lirud and divd I how happy then ought we to deem ourselves^
who arc to toon to know ilt hittoiy !

Below Mobocs wc entered a nioro tnteTtstJng part of the Dauubb It
divid«d fretjueDtly into broad nrms, which, after windijig round large
i«land«, again met and Qowcd together; so tliat we seemed to be passing
thniuRh a pgnntio park, with large rircre for littb bnlok^ high graosy
plains for snuooth lawns, and va«t forvsts for ptclurrsipje wmidt. At tJia
union of t)i(> Drave with the Danube, however, tlii« muliiplic-ity of amu and
iBhuids entirely ceases. At this juncture au entirely new kind of couutiy
and populnuon begins, boiEi in thc^ nortlm-ni a[id soiiiht m sides of tlie river.
On the northom side lies that iiileir>tiiig (liiLriel uitled in t^ogn^hy
books tho Uatsh comitat, but nbich tint Hungarians never catl by any
otliL-r iiankv tliau that of the Butsiiku, which noun: 1 shall here adopt. The
situntioit of ih«? country U as follows:

The pamlkdogram Tying between the Uanubo and the Theis*, s d(«ert
level district fretjucutcti only by liuntcni aud lierda of lionefi, rises towards
tli« «outh, into a low, biim-u plateau, which extends southward (or Rome
distnnee, of whivli a curie line drawn fiom Zombar to the tnouth of the
Tbeiis, would form the southern boundary. BftwL-vntlilt and tliuDauubok
lleit a small alluvial plain, extremely fruitful, and watered by small riven.
Tliit IN the (celebrated Datihka.

Mopt of the land in the Battlilcs is laid out in coniii«)d!>, and is in tli«
po3i-es;iDn of German colonists. Of its 1^0 little tnhitijitcd spoui, uidy 2&
are inhabited by Ituugarians, anil these ji'laci-it lif t^ntirply in the nortli?m
and li'ii fertile part. The StTviaiw occupy 25 of its 1^0 di>Uiuiis, and
the Germans 41. An intelligent and amialilu Ilnopiriau itohlrinuu, who
liTed in the Batshka, related to me many interesting jiarttculnrn of the
Geroiati colonisti there. He laid that the (iermans ofton bought a pieoo
of lander lOO Uorins, oad by their good mnua^cmcut and culiivaiioii,
wore able to unprorc it so much, that afler a timo tliey could sell it again

STBSIIA AND PETEEWARDErS. 257

iet wvfnil hundrcij florio*. Th« Gennsn TilUge», bv wUcd, w«n all rich,
not only iii land, cattle. Htid ttnrat of varioiu k!iiilii, but ako in Ttndy
DBonn-. A Gemuui village in tlut Batuhka wim uiiop contietimed ta i fine
of 40,000 Borioa. ET«ry ono wa« curious lo ««« what thu pt-iuwiM
ivould <Io iu tliiii COM ; but the Tory (Uv afier tli«v were appnMd of it, ^«
cliJefd of tliif TOiDtnuni^ cuoe fend laia tJie exail uua bdord the iiii^<
trntc. On «n« occasion s nobkman of tJtn Bnt^likn. Ini<l & wAger witli
lUifftbcT aoblamau, whv buii doubted the vuuiitrd wealth of iliw BatsUu
pMMBta, that At onu dsy's warning he could obtaia a Inaii of l(JO,000
lloriiu (roai his German colonists. Before et'oniii^ he liiul Irvird the t<f
^ti«t (uni &i>m five peadanLs &ioue. The n«xt luomin^ he ti>lil them of
his wsffer, and would havo retunn-)! tlir iiioiicj-, but they n-plied that tbty
did not want it ; thfy had bnjgiutied fur thv loau, aud tnould incUt on the
F»>euttoQ of thff contract.

Botli tile ancient RoinaDS and the Hungariatu, obtorrlng tlio Gin^Ur
fertility of the DaUilika, cultivated and cnloiiined it with gruat cam. Tliu
Turks, whofe <Wnstatinf* hnhiU made no di^ri notion Wtn^en a fvrtilc nod
a tanvn connCry, allowed this valuable and beautiful tract to run to
waste and berau)>e a mere marsh. Under the hands of the Gwniiui co-
louiils, however, it has reached nioro than iU former state of cultivation
And beauty.

RTRM[A AND PETEIIWABDKIN

On the nsht aide of the river, opposite to the Batiilika, between tho
Damibe and the Save, lies the land of Syniiio, n little paraditH-. about
eightreii (German) miles long^, and three or fimr limad. Thrcrogh the
middle of S\-m]ia nioH n line of bilk called t)i« t'nielikn Gora, which aie
covered with jiiiriunwiuv foreata, and beautiful viuevardi. The g^rapn
prmluccd in tliew vincyanls aro much erteemed th'n^ugtiout Huiijrarj.
Another nriiicinal production of Symda arc it« hog«, frijin wliieh aiv nip-
plied all tlie pnDci|>al h(^-niarketa of Iltinf^ry. They aie mostly of tfie
AIon;^litx& Facet UMTl-legged, with woully curly hair. They eat lem, and
can hear mora fittigus thaa ootnnon pig*. No leu than 70,000 of thew
iBter«nio^ gjuntora are mppotii>d to emigrate yearly from the land of
Synnim to the several markets of Hungary.

The first thin^ in Symiia which w« law were the ruins of tlie ErdMy
cattle, belou|{ing to a &ir-runicd noble family of Hungary. It is alraost
the only Hung»rian epot Ui Syrmia. Wc next rami- (o Dailyu. Her«,
BR at alt <nir Iaodoig>plaee« ia Syrmia, many Illyriau women h.id itjili-i-tcd
00 thft shore to atare at vs. It is now becoming nioiT< and nion> iImi Ciis*
totn, to call all the Slavonic nation* of thv Soutbeni L>iutiibc, tiic Croe-
tiaiM, Slavonianrt, ,S«-n*ian5, and Bulgariinu, by the common name of Illy-
riai)9. lliis name pleases their national pride, for tliey believe, contiary
to the opinion of the learned of other nations, that thi^'y are immediately
descended fitrm the okl Iltyriauii mention^ by tJic Itonvini. 'I1iu IlU-rions
of (.'rofitia and Slavnnia, an* »»l without l)i4-ir |>rnytiK^nl patriotism, and
while tl»cy look down with contempt on the Mn|^>'ar tialionality of Hun-
gnn-. they oocourage an Ulyriaiiiiiii, to tlie full aa hot in itj patriotuin u
the former.

Be^-ond the Dallya wo cam« to V'ukovar, or tlte town of the ** Vuka," a
amall mar luisg m tlte Fiwlika Gon^ and raunin^ iulo the Dauubc.

S5S

STBMU AXD PETESW.1BDEIV.

At Vukorar we took up tno new paasBngen ; two Sjmuan ladiot, jimtg
and pn>ttjr. Th«ir nMtiun«, much reMmUinp the riding^lnbitt of 0«r-
mtin \aAim, w of a. li^rht g^rron m^lniir, &nd »t with rows of bright but-
tons. Tbry »id thai tliLs coetumc nas vcr^- prvtklcut in S^nnia. They
■pt^ goocf Atistruut-GL^nan, and told lu the langua^ waa geneiaUy
ipoksn by nil vrlia Wlong«d ta the opper classes.

Purin^ the wliok of tlw tiiue tfiot we coutinued to cout a]an|i; the
Sjiwioa district, I waa surroondnl hy Scnriaiii, nrlio wtTC ftdl of coiircn»>
tioD ibout their nMiro Luid. They were deeply i-dresd iti tlie nnaient h»-
fcory of th« c«unCty, &i>d had an ttbimdance ot aoeodotM to tell di« tboot
ninrc miid«m nccufrt-nci^ Of the i>ew Scrtiui liero Ongotj Petnmtdi
T*lu>min, thin- K^inod to knnw quite m much m our own Gcinitn new*'
pnpers. I »8K«d th^m whether it waa tni» that the Scrviaiu felt eaen
eympaUiy for Russia than for nuag&ij. Their reply was, that th« cotii-
nuMi people among them had a sayings" Never quamrl wttli him wlio
diinlca with tlM* ont of tho tramo <•«!> at the tumV* Siqijier." Wo wan
enftiiffed in eudi dncour>o na our rcsicl ruthtrd post Oputovacz, part the
niiiia of Sboringrad taatle^ the lUoek convent, and tlic cnsUe mid
of Kamenb. Moat of then eoatlea and vtlla^s in ^yrniia. belonj^ lo thai'
Duke of OdtMolclu, Count Elti, M. Vonkontch. and the Lords of Marn-

EHni. The Odi-sL-olchia are not the only itolinri family poiscascd
trgo estates in Ilun^ry, but there are many of the great families,
thou^ their namca have an ItaJian look, are of g«Duine Macyar deaoentij
Tlie rUS and Sappari, for insiauce, are old aoduufiuoilionable Hung
ftnulisi, and the Mainponi, a familv of which vn-nnus branclies enst in
the country of the SloToks, are genuine Slavoutawi.

The lew ^^at men 1 bare naaied |>o»)eia nearly the whale of 8yiiiu% .
exeept wha^t hetoujr* to the eoiivent«, and ilio |X-iu>atits are all more or )cw|
Berti. Tliii circuiiittiinco t*ndt to deprive tlto people of all intereft in :
eyM. I ckn fympathUo with the poorert khouror that maiotains hit
and chiidrm with the work of his hnnd^ but cannot Ikclp fooling
lliiiig like eontempt for the being who toils only for a master. The 1
tiitii has often oeeurred ta ma when I have seen (iernuui, Italian, aal
Frc'Qch peasauta appeoniii; u heroes on the »tn^; but aa U> the ratal po-
pulation of B.-Mt*Tn Kunnii'. they w* one nnd all unuMibIc to the ■'"'"irtitt. 1
In the Sluvoiiiaii provinres subject b) Turkey, BiMiiia, Senria, Bulnrii,,J
ttfi., it is a rmnarhnblo faul that the principal nobility have all aUow«4 j
themselves gradually to he converted to tite MiUunnedaii religion. 'Hui
will at least have one giM^l cnnMM]tienee, — luiinely, that wbon tlicw pra~
vinren are retnipd from the Turkiiih domination, they will at the same
time be freed from their nohlce. Somothio™ of this kind acems already
to be taking place in Scrvia.

It was wnnc time befope we reaehed Peterwnrdein, the mo«t cniuid(>raU»
town in Syrmin. Peterwardein and Neusati arc miniature evimterpaits
to Pcath and Buda. Peterwardein. like Buda. lies round a fortress on tha
right nde of the river ; Neusati. like Pestb, is n trading eitv situated in ik
|4ni» on the left tide. A^in PL'terwardein i( as tattdi older than Neu-
■atSi as Biirltt »nirpa!ui-5 Perth in onti(|iiity. Surh pain i>f citiw an? rtry
oonmton on the Danube ; Belgrade and ScniliTi, Old and Kew Oniova, are
other instances of the eoine land. Of Xeiuntx we saw very little, for tli»
riiip lay iK> low, and the oily no flat in its level plain, tlmt tlie frotitd of tlie
n«tn>t hoiues liid all bvj-ond. Every river »tcamliaat ouglit to bare &

8TKUIA AND PETERWAHDEIN.

2^9

omndent aeki »t the masthead, for tbo beocfit of tnvcUen who wish to
se« Uw eotiBliT.

P«tffrward*u) v* mw pretty inili, for the tortnm iwm ("xn a hill of tho
Fmhk* Goes, rmind wiiicfa the I>aDube mnJiw b bcni A vmin^ Gvt-
tOAn giri who was on boanJ tlie ■tcamboat with her mntber. fihowcd sitch
(•Qthunuutlc dtJij^it at tlie toght of PetcnraHcirt, her naUve dty, that it
tent t« Uk: phict,' a peculiar iotnvtt in our c}'«> " Oh, fc«, dear mother,
Uten u our rinc jaia I Jkml there is the aummer-house roiuid wlikh I |>lunti-d
■0 many Bowen last ^ear t Ah. good Ucaveni ! Then- is our dancing-
tDMter »tandiii|^ ou th« bridge. How he will woikdvr when h« eee« ua
back again ! Come now, Taahe baatv, don't let us squMio our baaneu in
the orowd.' They bad boc^bt two biluoiisbla Vienna bonnetg, u nre-
MBte for the sisterB at hom«. Tlio tiav«ll«T it ofl«n too mudi iiicIiiKHl to
MM by with indiSereiice tfas little home traiUi which animate and £11 with
vtereat gtrange and foreign places. The idea of a danang-mastcr at
Keunu bod never oceurmi to nie, and Foti-rwordeiu gardcnt and tiiDim^r"
>a— i, t«Ddc<l vrith OS fond * caic as that fcU at home, aMBWd tonKtbiii^
onrioiu and uDcxpcct«d to ne.

naimd Petenrordeiti grow the best wine* of Southern Uungnrj. Pass-
iDg PcUrwardcia wo aaon reached Kariovilx. The«e three cidei! are the
three aipitols of tltc Militni^ FrontJcr; Nciuatx in the tntdiitg. Peter-
wnrdcin tlie tnilitary, and Karlovitz tJic religioiu capital, for it U tlio rvn-
denco of dio bead of the Greek church in Austria. The Ardilii^hop of
£aHovitc, the Greek Synod, tliu Uishop of Moutvuegro, th« Patriaivh of
■Con)itanLiii«|iIi>, and the Kni^wror of Russia, arc tlic live independcut heads
of the Greek clmrvh in EunijN*.

A ttcomhoAt down t)i« Danube t«arg along with iiich ineiorabln tpeed,

that acareely lua an interestJDg object appeared above the horiion, when it

already fies fu' behind, and Karcely any ri^lance U lufficient to prevent

i^flu tnvdkr from toung many objeeta of the h^eet interest. '^ e were ,

"etmrernDg mtli aome aDtcrtauung young Austnant, who wen dwc r ilAig

to ua the proceeding of a Ilungarian Diet, at which they had been prcecnt,

and while thua pteasantly occupied, the inexorable eteamboat swiftly sped

past the mouth of the l'heis», and when I turned to my map and to the

liver, I saw it lying far behiud nic, on tbeedgeof thehorison. I hailliet-n

|>&rliL-uliu'ly anxiuu* to tt» this rirar, b«cauM I hod boned to dixcrtver llie

raaton why tho juncture of two such great rivers a» the Danube and tb«

VThebi, is not marked by any town nr city. The confluence of the Danube

with the Drnre, otid with tlie ThriM, are t1ic oidy tnn exceptions t know

of, in this part of the world, to the ru]» thnt nil the tnnuths of great riven

an na^ca by cotuidorable towns. Tbdc two mouths have not so moA

m a vilhge or angle house in their nngb bourhood. Tbc immctise ninnhea

.vVtcb onver theee two plaeei may [lernaps be the cause of this singidar

* cU Tho oature of the country mode it, in consequence, impowiUe that

I town* ehould ariseexactly at tbc moutbs of thcto two river*. Never-

ihor traffic required lIld existence of staple plac«; wbara ll>e trade

Pof Ike rivers might eonoeotratc, and such flare, are Esseok (the Hnroa of

file Romans) fur tlie Dntve, aiid NcusaU far the Theias.

The oomer of manhy bind fanned by tlio confluence of the Theiss with
the Danube, is peopled ny the Tihaikists, who fonn tlie cs«w« of the Aut*
Iriaa ffimboats on the Danube. Tlieir territory bdonn to tha ISiSlatf
Franlwr, and, like all the pcasaati of lliat pation of me empore, they arc

8 2

260

THE MOimi OF THE SAVE.

linble to inilitnrv dntin, with tliit iliffWrence. llmt it is not on hud bntOII
water t)int the 'r^hnilcists an pnipjoyed. Thotr capitAl is called Titel, Uld
there i* the cliitf statioii of their fluUIlm of w liicli, l>i)we»vr, dctnchtnfnts
are coustantlv to he fniiiid nt .Svinliii. and at other points of the Danube.

The Tdiailcists form a battalion of about 1000 raen. They ore bound
to patrol about upon tfa« L)anub«, and their trrn«es are sometjtaef talmn
into reciiiisitioii fi>r biuldiRg- faridgeai psann^ tn:ii)p* acmiti (he nvrr, and ia
CAM at inundation to ktmt up a oommiiiiicatirtii helnMiii the diflV-nmt tu-
tvlatod pmnt*. Tbf portion of the riwr on -n-hich tho poopio aro chiefly
•niployecl, ii that whkh iatfrrcnes between Belgrade and Onovs.

THE MOCTH OF TIIE 8AVK.

FasaiDg between the mar^hv country' of tlin Banat on the Uh hand, and
the iry S^-nnia on tlie right, we Amv«d at night nt Seriilin, at tlie iiioulli
of the Save, opposite to which lici tho far fam4>d ritj of liflgn^tf. Semli||-|
M the lojt town >Q Uuu^rj, and BclgTodc the fint in Scrvia- At this
point wc passed through one of the principal opening* into lltmgar}' ; ona
of those ffiLtca broken in ita inouiUoin wall, by the rivers that water itfl
eentml plairm. Hungary- u a largv and iioilow bufiii of land, viiclo»cd oa
the rioitli aud north-co^ by the Carpathians oii the south and TOuth-tnst
kv- the Walarhiati atid lU^'nan nioiuitains, Find on tliE> west b^ tite Alps.
Tlie principal rivera which wnter it, ai'e the Oanube, the Theisa, the Drave^
and the Save. TJie two fbnnoriif th(-4c, whicJi art; by far the miHt eoiisi-
deimblo, have bnnki'i] three ^ntc* or a[>«uiiigB in the mountain wnll which
encloMS the countrv. ThM« liiree 8k>,

IsUy, that of Pretbur)^'. where thti Daimlie etitera Hungary', cutting
through tJ»e northern <'ilreini[y of ilm Alp*, ;uid the .loutheni estieraity
of tUt! Oiirjiathinns j 2iil!y, tlial of BiTlj^rniU?, wht-rv the »arne liver leave<
Hungnrv, piercing tlic Isrvinn inountoiiiB -, &i><\ 3dlv, tbnt of the «oureC9
of l}ic "fhciss. where the ralley of the Tlieiaa winds througb the mountain
maaaesof Transvlvania. i

The first opcn'inff, that of Preiburg, conneets Uimmiry with the Wert of)
Europe. Through tliia poMcd t)io tnrrcntof Huiu, tliat, heailcd by Attihi,
ptnirpil forth to deva'tutu Kurope : throupH tliis pass swarmed the wild
Majors to tormoiit Gennatiy, and the lieroe Tuiliii to be^ie^ Vivima.
This WS9 the gatQ by wliicli tbv Germaiu euU-ri.tl UuuL^ary to turn her
wild noina.(Iii' n)hlH-r hurrtrs into jwaccnhlc nixl indii^trioiin eitizi'ii.i i through
whieh l)i(' [liiiux crusRiVire, the penitent priiH'e* of Geniiuny, anil tlie devout
•overoigw" of the \Ve*t, journeyed towardn Palestine ; through which
marcliEM the Au&tria»a to (■liiiin their hereditary- rights and nnally the
French under their irTi>ac eni])«ror, to crush in Ilun^u-y the last remnant
of Auitrinn ind^pendenci'.

Through the lecond ^rcat ^tcat Bcl^jadc, pa.tsed tlie Roman cnij)crore,
and the generali of the Byrantiiie Empire, Into the vatley of the ^IoTK^'a.
Throuj,'h thi* npeninpf the soldiers and jaui^tarie^ of tlw Kadishaw poured
fortb coiitiDually, to lay waste the lltuij^arian plains ; here ulw llie Huu-
j^aiian and Austrian armies passccl alon;; to do battle a;;ainst the Turlui.
It waa through this opening, moreorer, llat the plague Urst entered Hua-
gtxy from tin; Eu»t.

The thin! fraU- first admitted tlio Hun* and Tiu-tars, and afterward*
the orifpnal llung^uian tribes thoinielvtw, into tliv valleyti of the Theits

STEAMBOAT LIPS.

ind tlie Dknube; uid tliron^li this gate it is tbe Hangaiians almuly

Iwf^n to dreotl tluit tlivy will one i»y bi^iuld tht aniuo of liuwi* cut«r

tile country.

Tlie tint of thse opetunin leads into G«nnany. and may thefrfore bo
■ called Uio Gctriaii gtM. The »ccnnd i» t^a.nked on cither side by S«rvia,
jtind may he uUcd tlic Scnrtui cMv ; aikI tlie tliin], wlitiv the Uuuiiui>i
> or lituKmettj may h» nid to hold guard, niiut be callnl Uw Risnan gftta.
I Every thing now began to W]c wry UnentaL Semlin resemblof mora
I ft Turkuli tliiLti • Hungarinii town. The ste&inbo&t sto|)iie<l here tb«

vliole ereniii^, and tre vinutl lauiy itiofM, which weii: full nf Turkinh

vnamL Mon in Turkiiih mtumM tat c-rnci.lo^^d oii t)ii^ s)inr«, diiiokin^.

Tlio French consul of Belgrade coma on lioani, and we k'arQt from hint
, that maiiy Gennniia emigi-nle to 8ervi» fi\im Sctnlin and XeuaaU, aa ecr-
iTants, iitakocpei't, and SkTici[itncii, uiii) time tliey are iiiui-^h nought for, and
I well paid for ihrir n»vviee«. Th* Mag>nnt, on the contrary, never ero*i llic
rbordim of their nativL^ land. A Frcncli courier also came on Ixmrd hirre.
[Be was a hard, cold, fhorfi. clever man. whojte brown, Bpare, and weather-
jbpaten countenance, borA niark* of Iniif^ exposure in travelling. He broaght

nth hiu tuniD cxrcllciit Turkish tobacco, of which lie oSvred lonte to 9»-

Ireral amun^ ui. lie hod travelled in Africa, Enroi^ic. and Asia, tianietyin

FAIgi»T8, France, and .rWia Minor, and had joi]iiiev<.>d ei^ht times from Con-

£tatitUio]}l« to Bel^Ttuiv, and tmcv fruiu Bt-ljjjadi.- u> Theualonica. lie told

me that u{ion the Uuli^arian ma<l», };i{iKim aru the uatial |iostJltoiu. and
tint then), u w«U aa the honec, ar*< ol^ii beaten t'> death by Iravelleni ; in
which cn«e thoy lay by the roadside, and no one talics tlto l(a«t notice cf
the occurrence. Tic knew a Tartar who bad m this way beaten to death
threo giimei during: tiia life. Tlie wliip, he Raid, and tlio Turkish costume,
vere Inuu^wusablc appenHafr^'s on that tniir. Merchants, courien, and now
and tlivn an Bng'luhinaii, he added, wcro the only trarcUcrs aloa^ tbe rood.
Knrly tlic next morning the tall while nilnai'eti of BeljETrada lay Jar
b^ind on the boriuw. It vcxmI us that llie wind, or the noise of the
flteamboat, hindered our hcariiift thu cries of the Muczzitii fn'm the towers.
Thin ij( the most nortlierlv jwint, from which tliu Fateh of the Frojihct is
ever uruclutmed, but it is surrounded by foes, and will probably not long
rematii a Turkiah po^ioosion.

We now |>rocec«le<l vnth tbe Turkish sliores oil one atde, aivd the Aus-
trian MilitKrv Frontier on the either. On the Austrian side all U level
manh ; the liiJIs i>f Servia give a far more agi^eablo anpearanu' to the
Other tide. Out of the Austrian ninrthrs ri.'<v at regular intenaU the soli-
tary Ts/mrtfakeit, or military posts, surrotiDded witn hushes. Tlieyareall
bimt of wood, and mined on piles, on account of tlie freqaeat iiiund&tioiM.
The |MMt« are placed near enough to one anotlier for the soldiert to see
from one to another in the daytime, and to hear each other at nights
The situattou of ihece posts iluring a gcocral inundatian, surroutided on
all sides by water, must be tedious and monotonous enough. When
emugghng or llie plague ddnaods it, the poati sx« Uuck^icd and tlie
soldten iiicrvated in number.

STEAMnOAT Llf E.

The Moratn is the principal river in Sorvia, and winds through tha
whole of that province. At its mouth it dividu into two anus, oo« of

MS STEAMBOAT htTK.

wU^ U c*1Iei] Y«Baba. Oq thif ftim licd Scmsndria, a fortrcsa of a very
pmiliiir appeamnoe hnd constmction. Belgrade, Onovi, and other
TurkUli fortmsscfl on ihe DsDube, belonged fonni^ly t» AiKtrtn, luid nrnro
alt«r«d and arrangt^ Kccordinj^ to tike modem ruku of fnrtifir*ti'm, nnd
oooseqnt-ntty do not dtfiV-r much ia nppcanncc ^m those of Otmnanjt
SamandriB. od the couCnuj, hu remaiiivd tuichnn(f«d bhA onmaii&eA, (nm
Aft time* when eannon* ud gmpowilcr wpro unknown. The walls fana
a lu^ triasKlv of fpreal lioght, and ara sonuouDtcil hy n>wa of littb
turrets with loopholm. At tli* comcn of th« triangle are higli wxagoaatJ
or ootagonal tow«r>, also nmiionntad with turret^ and between tb^ at
tcgahr iuicnaL) al-Mg the mSi, other smaller tovtvn of a Minilar fcmt.
Im waHs and tiiwen aeemed to me to stand witliin one amtfaer is a
double triangle. I counted twentjr'Are lowers, but there a[ip«iir«d to W
many more. Tlie vrbolo fortrcfs wai in good prviervation, and woe &
beautiful object, yrith the mflmiuK burHm ahinin^ full tq>ou iL

Tho Aiutriait shoTes rcinainea Ti>rv militnry in appoarance. and oF
ttern, barren, warHlce lup^Tt. The Stnvian affordnd more matter for
descriplioR niid for observation. There were cattle ;E^racDfc ^he mcudowf^ J
aod oxea dnnliing at the itreanu ; there vene villnges, and women washing
cloth«3 in the riT<!r near thoni } there were TurkUh And ScTrian boatmen,
nmia;; boat*, in whidi »ilor« in |>icturcM]uc ooetume were vtietcbed under
tho ihadc of bales of ^oda. All waa pcacefiil, qinet. idjUic ; and jrct t
harmless aspect omcealed war, and i>estilen(?e. and tyraany, and RoenA]
onarclty, while the rouj^h briatlioff cotut ^ppovitc, protected a land
peace, eomitiiTcet indimry, undciviltsalion.

At Dreiikova, a new settlviiient rveuutly formed by iIlk Kteam navi;^
tion eompanv, our number of paaeengvn, ori^ally 350, had dwindled
away to thirty. The ateamboat proceeds no &rtlier than I>rcnka
wbeTi- avmrdiiigly w* were all turned out into a timall convenient " _
vcwid : but bofern tjiiitting tho agrouaSle and expeditious afeambnat, the'
belt Vehicle certainly ever inreittod for river trarellti^, I cannot fovbear
rccallio;; a few of its pleasant sceoee and remiaiseeDces.

The more the small community dwindled away, the more familiar ani]
intimate with one another became thoK who reioained. In the steam-
boatei along the Ithine iriik! of this amat^mation takn place, bccutufo
each station, tlie Imnt tiikes up a« many new passeniren as it deposit! ollJ
ones. Not so on the Danube, whcro the intermediate stations
as yet of very little importaauc. Aa uur jounu^y was tliroaghout
panied by the most beautiful weather, we were almnst always,
and n^t, upon deok. The German lady, mentioned abnve. nlwnys sib
in her coach, which serred her tu au arbour, aud pnitertcd her from the
lieat of iho sun. The coai^h-door* were nlwayi left f'pen, and ber
children were iocesuinlly clinihinf^ and %'iiig i<i aud out, liun pigeons in
n dove eot. This little group formed the genetal centre of our coni
tion, and nercr failing topics arose from the conntleM objects of interest^
which HTB passed in our courw. The wslvniLiDs of the Danube, which
occur in great numbei'a, aff'orded us fn^^^ut^nc amusement. The millen
appear to live in a pcrjivtual state of hostjlity with tho sailors, l^oy
watched iii as wc passed their mills to maLe grimace-t at us, and when tliejrj
were sittitig nt dinner, they would hold out tlieir plates and spoons at Ull
with an air of grinuing dcoance. aa much as to say, ■* Wouldn't you wish
to have aone ? But you shan't !" Somotimes they would luar out m if

THE CATABACT8 OP THE DANURE.

S63

ID gnat tenor, " tht l>o«{'» lo«t !" " gOMg down f nod when tbp nw-
nngcrs tumcd round with surUod decs, the DiiUen wnrald laugh at them
for their pains.

While puling the Batslika our diwoutM tuned n good deal on the ImuI
ksxvtst of 1838| which wiu uiuvixvaUy vompUiu«d of. The mntniBT bftd
been m drv that all the rorn had withered; and the Banat tirovince^
vhieh usually beUs 6,000,OUO mirizrH of grain, had this year sold Enmsely
J,(XM),OW.

One lUy ta we weie aitling tn^tlwr mgagcd in cheerful oOBverwtioo,

the little jMiiiiter of PmiIi took out his nnparatux and hogan to take our

■ ^rtnita, 1 told him that 1 would rather nave s<*n him eti^g»d on «Mn«

of the more pictuieaijue li^r» nliit-h aiKiuii<lcil among the lower dus nf

BaawDgm. One day I led him niiide and pointed out to him a poor ad

Jew in INitldih eotttunc, wlio wua lyin|; ttrctched ok maU and iheepukin^

Iwt I could not prarail upou him to po-iit Uiiaman,aiid jcthisappeanuico

and T&gged cosiume were in the htgliest de-);rc« picturesque and iDlorcstinx'-

He woro a tattctcd turban and a faded old silk girdle, and hia heonl and

hair WCTe lOfCf^cd and dtiordvrvd. Hii t.-ounttuiani't- wore an vxitrvjoion of

the deepest miseiy : his cumnlcnon was pole, curpsi-Ukc, ana white aa

marble ; his efos were dull and destitute of tire : the lines s»<l features of

Ins lace were tharuly eul hut rcjjiilar ; his forrhead and iu>a<.I wvro of a

I beautiful fonn, und tlie whole exiiri».Hion of hia couiitcoauce was so uoble,

^ llwt when vuung uiid in health lie niuMt liava been remarkably houdsonie.

I addrMaed the uofortuoabt wiiom, becauM he wm eovered with vermin,

•vory one sliaaned, but I reccsved do answer. I qaectioncd eomo Jewi*h

L'Sierebanta about him. and was informed that bo was a poor, sick, and dif

[iraaed rabbi of Constontiuoiile, who had been tent for to Vienna by vomo

IvDtlter rabtiii in tfa* vata oope of hii rcounn^ relief from the tkill of

w Qcnnao rhjiiipiHiML

THE CATAKACTS OF THE DAA'DBE.

Hie TrtDsj-lvatuan and Walachian mountains, which branch off into
^'Gtrvia in a south -wrsterlj direction, divide the grcat plains of Central
Imigaiy from those of WaUehio. These plains probably once foniicd
inat hues, wlti<.'h f^roduoUy wora a pas« thnjuj^h the mowilain*, and the
i oo foTDii^l beaunc the channel of the present Danube. This pass,
rli nhicii the Danube winds in iu scrpentino eounc for eighteoa
(Oarman) mitce, is cstled the Ctissum.

At Moldova the mountMn* on each side lint begin to be of importanM.
They rise to a gigantic hnght, and if tlw river were narrow, these steep,
ban, nanow mountain walU woulil be Iprrific in anptannee, but tlM> broad,
cafan itraaai wUdi flows in traniiuillity between them, softcM tbi>ir ragged
graodenr. A little below Moklovo, however, a rery startlini^ phcnmncaioD
makes its appearance, for to the lieight of twenty fathoms there arises, frooi
the very midst of thu rirer, a huge rock witli frowning chasms, jagged
and pointed, tecih. Tlaj jvck if callod by the iababitaot* tba
li. or "tricked woman." Immediatdjr below it is the coinincnca-
aiMl cf a aeries of periknu wbirlpoob nud rapMs.

I aai anable to tjicak with any certainty of the height of the mouiitain
" I at tilts place, but I was tokl by tltoav whom I questioned, tbat tiwir

B64

THE CATARACTS OF THE DAXCDE.

Jkeigbt coulil Dot be uivdcf 300 ftthotn*. Ilocki and mouTiuinatben of tlie
game he!xlit aa tliew waIIb, siinilftr id nil rv^pccts, jfefTS^ ^"^ mugh, and
cut hy dwp rHviiies and vaIli!\-£, are sovni in the bm oC ill* Hter lUnif^ and
to«e>r out of tlte water on all si4M. Tha highoit of tliesa is the 7>ti/»-
wicxer Spitirf Move wliicli tlw ratiumota nf the Oambe begin. Scarcely
hud wv }kik)hkI tliin nx'k tlinn wr htmri a dull hdlnw roaring m the n-aier,
and snir thp dari< lipndt of tlio <Ian^miu TC<'f>i which )m-iv run rirbt
aerosa the riwr. The rowers exerted all ihdr fUrnplh and ri^dMibwd
their caenKittM, for il !a nnt enoiigb dint ihc excited vraten drive nn tho
boat Ull it l)Ii'!t bcfriTi' tht>iii with tlu- m|iidity of an nrimv. the rowers
mutt Inliour witli all lh<-tr nii|;ht. fin<! innin to incrpaiw thJii mpidity. If
Unj were lop^ocft-d olowlv and cauiiftudly, Ly way of nvoidiofr th« rocks
and rwfi, they would ineiitahly be eaui;ht and Ewnlhwed lip by otiv nf the
nuincroud whirlpni>l9. Tho boat niuit rut thMn npidiv mid depisively, liko
a kiiil'v. and tlic ii1nic«t jtrtMrieion, boldness, and local kiiowledf^ ar«
rw{uiml in the 8t«preinaii. As in human lifp, whenever whtrljiiMilH anil
ra|>id3 li^i in our mtarae, tli? tiniid aud fearFul are «ure to sink, whiU> tlio
cour&i^oiu st«er«niau, who n.-doubl«4 ius i^uer^-, and exerU all his
experience aiul jttdgnicnt, p«UM'» victoriously through crt'Ty [wril.

The tmiiKiiioii from a tjuietly-flowiiij^ rivpr to a wild eddyin;^ and wliirl-
in^ torrent, is, of coune, ^[nuJual. At first the water only niiiB with
greater rapidity. By degrees, siDall vartinea and titeii rreaCer oqm lie^^
to appear. Ak m> advan^y, tlir [lootii inrrvaie in <le{ith and circum-
fnvtusm, and thHr edgvs kp over more and more upon one another till
the whole beconiM one vast, roarinjj-. foaming, eddying-, whirling vorfox.

We all ttoful il) the fitrejnrt nf tlie boat, near where tho rowcn nt,
many of us «trf tchiiig our hi^iuL) "vnr l-lii; wdc, tiring tuuiull of the elements. The ehildrco alone atill contitiuM to
play ■with careleM unconcern, regardless of llic danijers around them. The
BtMTsninii stood aft, ffaziiig Mmdiiy upon the Htrenm. Vyion his enoigy
and ekill oar safety dependod. The nieasuiwd, steady motion of the oara,
as they cut the convex swrelling bubbles in the whirlpiiol, formed a fina
contmit to tho wild, stomiv coiifosion nf the watern. lejinnot say eiaetly
how long tlin tumult lailed. It began three times anew, fonniaff thcM
Kparate whirhiooJa.

Tlic breadth of the nitnuhc. In itii- narrowest part of thiJ paw, i* only •
hundred fathomx. Bcltuv Prcrh it Im 600 fathonm hniad, and faitlow Bet-
grade it ia a perfect <en- This vast mass of wat&ra, enriched by innu-
merable tributaties, is here forced through a cliamiel so extremely narrow,
and tut TOnt is to be oblniiidd either bv iniindiitiitn, or liy any other meana.
It ia tbia which gives ibi- whirl|>oaU, and ibo cntantctc which Follow them,
such ttemcndoujf force and tmjietus. It is wouderful to see tho whole
united Tolume of water pouriRg itself down one steep and narrow defile
witli tb« rapidity of lightning, aud more than thonoixe of tliuuder.

Toeatimato the exact i^uajtlity of water which in poured do«u tlie Clia*
eora is imnoasihle, R>r the depth of ihe river has never K'fti retceriained
with any aegree of oertainty ; indood it is sn very various at diffrrt-nt ;tarli^
that to find a jurt average « Msreely posnble. At one pUwe the bnatmea
Htiil, "Here the ri>'er ia forty fathonu ieey" and at another, *' Ucm
tin rocliB are only two feet latlow the tmttrjiu <>f the boat." H'lnietlinea ifc.
happens that the boat, dancing wildiv upon the wnvei, scrape* upon a
rock, yet it ia very seldom that aa accident occurs. Out of iOO vctwls.

A NIGHT OX THE MILITABY FEOSTIEB. 268

99 f^ iHrmijrli ilio pass in Miety. One may afford to mk life with nidi
odds ID onp's favDor.

Our Ttituffi; tlie nftni« given to the description of UrRe row-boat in
whidi we were embarked, bmug^hL lu auMy Llimu)f;fa. We passed the
Jtlax, and the !«« fiirniiibLilo Tarhlalia luid Ik/:,* successfully, and
naebad again a poaooful >n<) quiet ptrt of the nvi<r. At Svinitza, n-hcra
staiidt a fTivAt rocky outlttt callt^d ilic Grcbcn, the Daaubc flows qtiicUy
out into ea*y gitmno, and pumue* a Iranquil coune. Siiuiia i* the south-
eFTUnost point of the kinffJom of Ilunjifar)'- ll wat now evening between
our reeky wallf. The plains of ccntrij Iliat);ury ttill baikenl iu (he rays
of the scttinfT sun. but ffivy twilifflit wiu s|HTad o\cr tlir ^lixMtiy niouti-
tain-pim. SVe liad been told tlint we should reach Or«iva thftt night,
uid wet? vety mueh disappointed to tee that the sun had set 1)«fore ne
emaged from die Clidsura.

It was a Imantirul cieninjr. The rir^r was now tlin>n lime;} lu wide tiM
hofbre, and the mountains Uegiin n^in to be covered with ^I'eii herbage.
ilvrc and there wild glena and deiUes aflorded a g^linipte into the interior
of the cxmntry. All was ai .lilent as if we were ti-avellin^ through tlie
primeral forasta, alone some ini^rhty Arncrieint riv«r. On the Au«triiui
fide the solitary fire oi a military p<i«t lit up the hcipfliti here and tliere;
and on the Servian side, the mounlolns were more freqoentJy aitd brightJy
illllininated by lires kindled to frighten away the bears. We liad all
' &sted the whole d&v, with the exception of our breakfast on b')ard tho
ftmnboftt, and all bewail to feet uxtrvinely well tiidiiicd for soinctliing
to ««t and drink. Tiiv ehildnni antiplainetl n little, llioiigh tn a very
Biodcst maMncr^ of beiug vtn-y hiiHE^y »iid lliiraly, piuticularly as they were
ivrappod up in their cWks, and forbidden to niu nbout any more. Una
of our passengers, therefore, who had liberally |ini>ided for his own wanta
upon the journey, look pity upon us, and prodneed a Utile tea-sen-ice,
with Bome surar, btscuibt, and glaatsn. One of the Jews on board struck
a li^kt. and lit a fire, another fctclicd water, and very soon a r^ry com-
fortable kettle of hot water was bailing for ten, orer a pleasant little fire,

TIiv little ones were fed and sniiilied : and we grown Up children en-
joyed our oops of wortn tea tltat diniii>cd more comfert, aitd gowl liuiuour
among us at that moment than the best cliampagne or tokay eould have
dniio under diflTorenl rircuniftaneea. Here was again a picture I would
.liua have painted, but for want of a pencil, I eoutcnted myself with iin-
[amuDg the scene i^tou the canvass of my meiiuuy.

A MGRT ON THE MILITABY FRONTICR.

As it f{7«w darker, our boatmen took eon to keep tcy the Austrian nido.
This was very necessary, for if we were not to keep within ught of tba
Austrian sentinels, we iliould be considered to liare incurred iufectioo, and
■houtd be subjected to (juanintiiie on arriving at Oraova.

We oould not get our boatmeu to declare positively whether the;
thought we should reach Orsora that night or not. Our unecrtninty waSi
Bowavar, soon terminated. " /-ay ti hrayi !" ihouted a sentinel from llw
Austnan sida I did not uodenland the cry, but tho towers did, and im-

* These are the Wslochkn narats lor the throe friciciiMl whiripooli.

9M A inonr on tiis uilitabt proxtieb.

irt****' r >ow»d tawKfds l&nd. Wbcii w« rpached th« peat, «• nn at
£nl forbiddcii to pioct-«d, hut on our uning iiinn^ {KrivuBBTe remonstnuieM

and arfrrniMiits, l£c soldirra comulted togctbrr, and agreed tliat Uktc ynts
adH lifjfht eixnii^h for us to r«ach Uw next i c n tty post, and that tlie srati-
dcJn tlicre mjfibt dedile tipon oar fitrther proocMU^ ' A««Mdinglv Utey
Mtnt a noklicr lato our boat, by n»y of escort or fj, and m wen allvirad
to go oo. W« proriwdMi wilh our tea-driiiking in all powbla good-
Intmoor, tmtil ihe unvttrhvrme sound, " La^ n Amt/i," a^in rt^oundc^
from tlu! It«i^hu. Here w« wcra coinpcUod t<i diKinbark, and we did §o
in tlx: cotifidtnit hope of h&ag allowed U) proceed utiiex a ^^uard of another
■okbvr ; 1ml iki — tnc «orponu dedared toat it wux ittn Ut», and we must
tpend tlw ui^^ht when we wete. Is vain w« poiulcd to Utc LuUm and
cnildren, and remoartnted on ibo strtsnty of conipcUind; them to pot ap
with the scantY accammcKLitioti! of x militiin- post In vaiD we llUHWillllwl
that th«v mij^ht send as many eoldicrs 03 they pleoJ^d with HI, M a« to
hiiidt-r till! nlig'liUt^t i-Iuiiii*« of any intareouiMwit}! 'I'tirkty. Thescutinab
wen ivaf to all arguinetiu and appeals, replying that t)i«y could not tales
upon tfaomsslvca th^ iw^Mnsibility of allowing us to go on, antl that we
mtut stay wli«ra w« were. We werv iberefore obliged to submit, aud to
•lUTt-niler ouraelvM prisonen to the noldien of lli« 13tK military ]K»t of
liuf niyricO'Wabiehuui fronUer-rvf^inutnt.

The pott wai called P1avi«h«ntsa, aRer a n^hbounttf; Walaclaan
lilla^ of that name, into which wc now faaateued. to padcavour to find
fome cjuarters more suitable t9 the sex and ngft of a port of cmr feUdw-
jiiMiiiijj,!!!, thno iha littJe mntry -house, (iil«l u-ith tho rad« tnUlitry aS
tlw frontioT. We Mnrclicd through tlic nhulc villagv, but fuuiid nothing
cxce|)t thrmost miserable huts, which were nil Dbstinatclrcloaedagunitia.

At lentil we i]c!terni!n«d tu look after the priest of the villige. lUl
aeenwd to us a wipital idea. AVhere criuld wo be more YiMy to in»et wHlk
civility and hn^pitidii.y, anil nlwre iie were ininv likely to find fit lodi^D^
for the ladies and childrtn ? We knocked. A fji^rantic man, with a
g;lootny enuntenanN, nnd lon^ rag^rij bfnrd nnd hair, made hid appear-
ance', clothc<l in a coiuvc linen ehirt and trouscn of the same niateriiu, over
which \iaa throM-n a. loose cnftart. Wo spoke to him in tiemuui, but tlw
TiUacv priest, for such he wius, appeared to know but two Gtrman words,
whieh ho repeated iiiceManttvi wuking hit head all the time : " A'tA'«
WirtAtkam f A'ik'* IVirtiuJiaut f" (No inn '. No inn !) We Iwgan to
Bjwok in RuMiiuii, luid rntreatod liis hospitality, representing^ to bun tha
holpleamcM of our «itiiation. Our arguiuenti, now ppifvctiy midcntood,
softened hif heart, and be agreed for a reoAotuthlo rcmunumtion to allow
tlie ladien and children to occupy hit two bcdstctsdi. and the only room in
iut home, a miserable place enough ; and moreover, be midertook to pro-
enre tiiem a httlv miik and bread iar Eupper.

The ladies who lind rciniuncd on board the boat, w«rt> now fet«hetl up^
tov»tJier with the ehildreu, of whom wc vaeh l/wk one in our arms. Tna
lames ond ehitdrcc took poasesaion of tl>c two bods ; tlie pRMt with his wife
ftnd childivu ttrrtclml iheituclvcs in tlio aebea by the lire : onr RaguMui
lay down upon his cloak before th« door, and 1, nij friend, and the Kreuch-
Bian, returned to take up our qtmrten on the shore. Here wc found two
litlle carta, wlucb the Walocbiui hoyan had obtained, and in which they
were detemuiied todrirethoreni&iaiii^soniniiulestoOrsoTa. TheTurkisa

A KIGHT OS THE MILITAHT FKOXTreB. SW

Jrvs and Senmu wen alttbAtA m the Msds bv the rire^side, wrapped
in th^r fitif, KMiie tmojcinff, torn* talking, Kod oUien ■lo^nng'. Som* wera
l^iii;* nn th« bcndiM And trunks in iho bo&L

The scatrybotuc or Ttfiardai, Mtootl on tbe height imincdiatcljr orer-
looking Um taodt. It had two divuioos, on« for tlie watohfirc, aiid tba
other for the midicn tn K\ttp in. Hvforo thii little chfid, onder tbe pm-
jecting roof, the men hu] piled their arnin. Thrro went ux or ttrcn »!•
dien at the Tshardak, and their dresa like their political conttitiitioii, wat
half military and half pciMnt-liko. Orer tho oiual peasant's frock they
wotv knapMck*, fnatcncd to a Iratbern strap. Tbetr )«^ were wtappM
in Knai or wooUcn cloth, and their feot covered with those saniUla, last-
«ned with red Undingi, oooudod ta mnst ecutem Slarooian nations. Thejr
woire peasants' cape, and in«a( of them had t% kniA< sticking is the girdle.
Ilioae who were oa watch, nrnrrhnl up »ii(l down hefore the Tshanlak
with ■ reiy unai)li£«^ gait, and with tliv lin^ nimk>it thrown clunuily
OTcr tlw ehooldor. Fnr the eorlon aan-ifo oti whidi lh«i> inmi urn am-
plovcd thev are admirably fitted ; ob parade they woukl certainly not sbov
to adranta^. They ore truly a nu&orHM maicula milirvm proln*.

All the aoldiera of tlin mnlier regimanta an now tnnght the (icrman
laniiruaf^. Moat of tht-m forget it as faf t aa thev leani it, except the few
military phrases they are in tJte daily habit of using, but tbe non-cotninis-
sioned onicers generally spenk German toleraUy well.

W* were verj' hungry and thtrxty, and asked the sol^en whether w»
could hare some bmul (tbe Frenchman hod actnally the conscience to ask
for white bread) or »onie dried fish, or a piec* rS haoon, or a glaoa of milk,
or Baki, the DomnMin liquor of the eoimtry. Hhvj rfi ni gyeo thnr aheol-
ders. anil sa»d they bad no sudi duiuties, bnt Ihey would get as pWty of
water from the river, and would mix us KMne flour and water and boil it
into a namaHga. A fire was accordingly kindled, nrae floor and water
p«t into a kolUe, and a thick gruel bopq prepared. Ooe of tbe eoldiera
HOugfat na » BUla aalt in a wooden spoon, and another tome powdered
cheeae. Tint nipper waa certainly no finut, bnt we were obliged to piit up
widi it. At for the Frenchman, he protected tliat the first nwuthfiil abnost
«bohcd him.

As wv were Mitiiig round the fire, the cry of the •entinel, " Hold ! Who
goo f was heard. It was a mevcugvr with a letter. The coiponU im-
racdialdv despatched one of the a<daicn with it to the next post In ■
little wlule tiie sentinel hailed again. " A friend " was the rvply. It was a
patrol sent out by the chiefs of the cordon, to mo that all was tight at th«
ailFerent potts. Sometimee tbeae ehieft themselvea make the orctut from
post to post, without any pnTtoHl wsraiog.

Once more the unwearied mnitiiiel reptutted Ms challrngTi and leoetred
a friendly answer. It wm the n«w guard, come to relieTe the otfaara. No
inUicn rcnuin more than ecven days together at a sentry |>ost ; tiicv are
tiien relieved by ax or seven ntliera, wholikewisc rwtinin a week, breiy
soldier spcoda uneCy days of the year en ffusrd at tlie«r pkeea. Encli of
the new conctt bod in hm knapeack a bug, eontaining seven 0*a of
flour, their sole proriaion for the tewn day*. Sume of them had also »
little powdered sheep's cheese, and tome of tlicai, though not many, were
tvron without salt — at leait lo they assured ns. Salt is verv dear npan th«
MUJtary Frontier, tlsough extremely sbundaat on the Toifeiah ^ide. Th«
•okBen look with longing eyes upon tbe shiploads of fino green saltt wfatcb

268 A SIGHT ON TUE MILITAnV I-ROKTIEB.

poM k)on^ Ute Turkiih tide of tbo riror, and there u probably a ltttl«
tmujiilj^lin^ auried on m io tcniptinf^ on nrticlc

TIip »f>idiera had come rery far that dajr, having set off *arlv in th«
morikinjif. Th«:y were very tirtd, and aft«r throwing th«ir tliicL bronm
cloolu mcT tlicir weapons, the; stretched tltentfdvM on the g;nnind before
the Tshardak, and imtnedistvly fi-11 aalN-p. I nortr ui* txt little Kconinio-
datinn for a iT«ek*i lodging. Their arms atone nKeivLv) aiiy i-arv or at-
tvutkiD. ^Ve lulced them ythy tlu-r d!<] not slwp uilhin the Tihanlak,
but they rvplted that it «wan»<*J with mice and vermin, aiid that ibey
almvs proferrad deepiDg in On ojwn nir.

Toe liardthip* And [mvatlom to uhich the daHv Uro of th^M hardy and
couragei)ii3 men is exposed, eren undur the nioet laTourablc circnniftanccs,
it nlnuMt incredible. What miut it bo wh^u bud wt^alber renJera the
country ciitirvlv iinpiuni>)r, and thvtsi them tip in tb« miaenble Tshnrdak,
and w-licii IIh- mere kocpinp of Ihi-Jr weapons in f^ood coaditi<>ii, rvquircs
inceisant labour and care. But when the alarm-bell beat* from the chief
watrv'-houBes, when aij^nl fires are lighted from the heights, when perhaps
ft rohberv i» pracloitncd, and lltv soldivry ha^-c to rvaiti tlie VQuutry wr
daya togetiier, in search of banditti, to m'ovcr jMrliajH imnie miserable
cloalci and giiiia, theii the frontier soldier is quite in his rlernvnt ! Then
he sing* the warlike utngt of his eauutry, and 9liout« tlio pnusM of ^e
Anatnaa emix-nir, for priration and hardahip are not felt hy llie liarJy
bordertir, and war and tumult ore his delight.

We seated ourselves ou the edg» of the height OTerhanging tho undf,
to enjoy our foost of mamatiga and water, and the corporal tat down be-
side UH, w itli hix knotted eorpond'i stick in big hand. The Coryjoi-al of the
Military Frntittpr ia a king whoce tceptrw is tierer out of bi« hand. There
is DO more certain way by which to win bis roral fkrour. than to oHV-r him
• pipe of tobacco, ns wc now did. Uc iitmiodiately began to cnmtrsc.

*' We have had pence for wriim time with the Servians." said the cor-
poraL " lender Prince Milfwh tlic)- wc« kept in very good order, but
since the new gxjvimiorV occcieion wc have bc«ii nblipcd to redouble our
watchful II CM, and we know not how it will Iw in future, Tlio country is
not od seeuru a« ours just n<Hr, for even their officers of govertunent must
tlwayt go about armed."

Now and then from the Servian xiilu we could h<-Jir the barking of dovs,
the only sound which broke the silence aromid. Wp did not liear the
howling of the woIvc« in tho forest, althou^fh we listeuod for it attentivcJrt
for the borkinff of the dogs c»in|»li'tely overpowered them. The fires in
the Servian fields glonmed out h<ire and there from (uiimig the dark trees.
" Then? are plenty of woIvm and bear* over there," said the ooiiwiral.
" We luire some, also, but not »o maiky. They have also more usofiit
animals, such as stags and deer, than we have. Liut winter they killed
300 stags and deer in the snow. Sometimes tlie twarv swim over to our
side, and tlie soldicrv ha>-c to look tSivv tliem pretty sharply.

It may bo seen how variottt arc the labours necesHiry to protect a ciri-
lisocl against a bflrboric fronUer. The usual number of sol£eT« kept con-
stantly on watch along the batiks of the Danube aud Save is 6000, hut
when any peculiar dan^r douandi increased vigitaTicc llic number is in-
creased to ^Ono and 12,000 men. Tlio whole number of able-bodied
frontier-fioMicrs is (>0,000, and they keep natch in rotattoti a& above
described.

MIMTAHT 7H0STIEB.

" An & Gemuin I feel {irnuil at tbiit inttitation of the Militarv Frontier,"
Mud 1, turning Ut the Fivn^mnn, " fi>r ii u one of th« iiiott reoiarkitblv pro*
jecti wliicli GcrinAUY hu «T«r Bxecutcd, for eke defence of licr ova dvUi-
sation and that of Europe."

'" Comment pa ? Voas etetjier ! Je n^en eompretub tim. Je ne ifti$
m comment ni povr^utn."

lliiiphniM "je tie sais ni commmt m poarqum^ vna coa^utlAy on
the lips of my Fmiclimau, vrlio hiring lived all his life lu Piiri«, wnt com-
pletelv iciiornut of ppeiy thing out of it. He tumed rouud and went to
steep, while 1 coutinuea to occup)* nij'AcLT with

THOUOHTB ON THE POLITICAI- IMPOttTASCB OF THE MtLITABT

KltOHTIElt,

which appears to me of the h^heet iatecvst, fts coaindfivd,

Jstljr. With reference to Gemiaiiv ils a Geniiitii irmtitulioi).

Sdl^. At » «ch(M>l of civiliii&tioii r»r thit nttighlimtnng i-ountriM.

ZA\y. Ag a ptotMtion for th« dvilintion of Europe againat the 'bsr-
borism of Turkey,

The foundation and devclopmeat of ililj iriitttuti'in 1>e£;ui vrith the fall
of the Hungarian kia^oia at tlio battle of MoIuu-ji (1.^2.^), with the
»c(.<e«non of the Audtriui Emperor to the Iluii^anun crown, and with the
bi-giiinmg of the great wir between the Turk» uiid tlio Gennnna for the
dominion over tliese eastern countries, which lasted noBrly two hundred

Tbo Empemr Fenlinand, tlie hmtber of Cliarlos V., first quartered
Gerniau troops in dioM diatriru of Cmntia hnrderiiigoii Stjrria, in order to
protcet hi* new kingdom of Hungary agaiost the inrortioiu of the Turki.
Thi« garrifOD afterw&rdd received nujneroua addi^oiu of ScrviiiTi and
Croatian fiigitive?! from Turkey, who were endowed with lands, on condi-
tion of sori'ing as military frontier guanli a|^inK the Turks. In thia
mtnufr wu nnt orgauiicd the Mihtuy Frontier of Styrio, wlik-h wu
afterwards fornictl into a distinct tnargmvate, andcr the name of " tlie one
peipetual Oeneratty" of the Croetian Fronlion.

This Generalty is the basis and foundation of the whole subwqiii^nt
Kti-ucture. Thu more the CoiMiucnts of Austria ext«nditl in Hungary', the
more tliv frontier Hues were lengtlient>d. The more die Ckrittinn power
bonme consolidated and itrangthened, the greater was t)io ndrtittor of
Cluistian fugitirea who took reiug* uii j^u.itriiin ground from the tyi^nnjr
of the Mahnniedaii govcrument. All thejio fugitlive, Uskuks, Croatiaos,
Albanians, Mncodoniani, Si>r%-ian«, and Wals«niati«, weia ho*pitably re*
ocired W AiistnEi, and soltltn] as beforo on the waste lands nf SUvonia
and the ttmiut, for the defence of the frontier. As more and ntoro pro-
viuoes were added to the dominion) of Austria, the frontier wu Oually
extended (o it* cwtom boundary round Tnmsylvania, in the jeaiB 176o
and 1763.

It is probable that as civilisation and culture spreads louthward into llie
Turkish dominions, fltii hi-tng wall of proteetion against barbacisni nuij
cnduoUy brcomc uuui»«SNiry. but at priMcut it is very far from bwng to.
The internal distinrbanccs and courulnona of Turki-y, nitd llie unsettled
t4nle of the Oriental <)uc«tion on tlie one hand, and the spirit uf discontent,
the passion fvr nationality now «o daugvioualy prevalent in thmgnry, od

370

TBOcanre cm the roLincAL thtobtjlkcb

Aa odwr, itodw tfw p rowrr a tioa of the MiliUry Frontier a(ihoyiayiug\i~
«it oOMeqMBOT to AnslrU.

Ho ooe who Itu erer had mi opportunity of coiiipnrin); die stAte of
UiilMtioa in the coDtij^oiu dixtricti) <>f Huiicary uid Turkey, can doubt
yihmi Tart benefit this iustitution has coa(cnt» oa the inbobituttB of the
ootuitiin immediately nittiin its iiillueooo. In the first tAace ihe aecori^
of tlw mhabitanu is placed i^od a firmer fiwting thxa id the nei^rhbour-
inff districts of Hiu^ory, to say uudua^ of Ttukey. Witliinthe idilitacjr
Frontier very few robbraries ta^e place, stid tlic trardlcr a u aafe as la a
(jennaa Province. To weenie life and property oufrlit to be tho first oon-
ndentioD of ratioiud civilisation. Tim !«coiid is tfie securitv of judicial
right*, and in this respect aiao the HiUtaij Frootser has an unni«tise ad-
vantage oviT tho iii'igtilKiiiriiig Pount t Wt.

A ffreat Atitl ha* nUo bowi oiFftct*d for the morality and aodal ordw of
die tnnabitants. Their tompcraoce, domestic peace, ood tho pmetnal fid-
filmeot of their dutiea is subjected to a wholesome suncilUoce, bat which
must by no means be supposed to de^nerate into a t^Tannicol and Inqoisi*
torial spirit of meddling. The highest ai well as the lovnt arc rvstiaincd
by military and moral rcgniaUDiis, of wliich they Feci thi; salutary iiiiht-
euce, and I myi«lt^ in the 6«|Hel, metwiih many IIuu(^ariaD peasants irho
had taki-ii rtj'iigc in tliv Military Fnuitivr F/oin thu tyratmy luid scvt-rity of
ilirir iniutcn, and who assured mc tiiat tliry nvn- far better off iu their ni-w
homes thaa they liad ever been before. The frontier is, therefore, peopled
from two sources, from Turkey and Uungaiy, by {tigitivw from opnressuNi,
who seek a rcfugo, iii the order, stwurity, and peace establislied ui the {fOO-
tJ«T districts.

Edunation has likewise beon in many ways nramotod 1m« fay the Aos-
triaa government, and if th« sclionis of the Military Frontier do not yet
qtute answer tlieir ends, owing chielly to the want of (]unJi6ed tcarher^
yet what 1 silw of these schools agiweably ]>.ur[iri»cd me, and « hen we con-
sider iht the atato of c^ueAtion oti the rifrbt tidp of thi; Duiubc, we cannok
luihaeuUy rcjoioe at tlto mental illumiuatiwi which has been shod on these
doHc regions by tlie Austrian government.

It is a nu less agreeable surpriM> to the traTcUcr coraing'fpwn Hungary,
or still mor« kma 1 urkey, to obwrhi: tlie good state of tlic roods and biidgM
iu tlio HUitarv FronUer. The advaulagiu which this institntiou has cos-
ferred upon llio iiiliiibitaitta are the more btriking, because tho countries
from wbieb the diObront elements of the population ori' dcrlrMl, Iving m
close to the frontier itself, invice eonip&risoii. Turkish Senia ha* founded
a real New Serria in the Military Frontier, wltioh might with morv truth
he caJled so than the Prorinco of that name in Austria ; Wiilachia, and
Turkish Croatia, lutvo also a tittle Wnlachia ajid a little Croatia, within the
Miliiary Frontier.

The work hero aceomplialiod by Aiirtrin, and in<^^ed by all Germany —
for it was only witli the hvlp of tbc mKncy aud troops fiup;>lied by the rcat of
Gcnnnny, that the .\ustriau guvcniment was enabled to I'oiuid tlie Military
Fiwntier — has been of the greatest service, not merely to Gi^naiiy, but to
all Europe ; for it was this elective aiid energetic institution uloiic which
formed a perniatieiit rampait agiunst tlic Turks, and preMrved Europe
from that drt- adful disease to nhidi it was so long subjeot, ond which stiU

T throughout the East.
OS is not improbable, tho &oatior contiflues to adtatwe in a rapidly

OF THE imJTAHT FEOATIEK.

271

M O greJi ive covTM of cinliMtioD uid pnisperitv. it vnil petfaafB gmlaaUy

loM iu military cluracier. uid bl«aa tritli liie rMt of ttic peaecful aud

■ndu^triotu Auttrian oomfiuiLiitj. It ia rpniarkalile to otNwvn how tho

|»Ue* are sow tumed betircvu Austria au<I Turki-y. la anocnt tiiiica. the

lauds o( aviiiniion and reGactneot Uy oo Uie rvbt vide of the Danabe, aod

I ft AratMr Uni^ tinilar to tha pw wa t MiUtary Froatier, vat dnwn by tho

'. Byuatiiw emperorB, to piotert tbeir dominioM agaliul the lacunioiM of

' HtB Northeni mrbanaiu.

While I still tat oil tli« iihoreJ of tlie Danulw, inaltinjr ifiloctioiu apca

the ituportance of t)io Military Kroutier, tiu; &Tst grey light of niommg

■1 to dftwa. The old coiporaJ, f^v'm^ up his poet to his succeaKw,

: lua deputure with his soJdicrs. I uWneil iliat «aeh loldier, at he

mnt away, carefiiUy took hii cartridge &om Itu ^ruu-barrvl, luid put it

into hia caitridf^-box. Thit id oil- nocouut uf tliv Kauty supplr of ammu

■hion allcnrod to the frooti«r aoUicn. Ou the MUitat^- trontier, oo

' mneconry shot must over be firwl ; tlw camidgBS are spaiiag\y dealt out^

•ad must be lued with equftl partimony. They aie •ouetioiu* pat thrw or

rfinir tines iiitu thv ^ii. aud ihen drawn out a^ain, for tJia aoUicx taiut

|Bevar go anned int" tht> interior of the amntry. To any oius not ac-

F^nunted widi tbew ■'rffliTiMttT'*— . t^ fuiui iitade about a munng or spoilt

'fiiftrid^ sometimM appnn liigbly ridicuiaus.

W* now set off for the nllaffe to look alter our ieUow-tavelleca. When
we arrived thent, we found all atill mak iii deep rcpoee. The Ragusso
Iftv deeping Iwfom tlu door, and the window of du ladies waa i^ eoveicd
with a ttttle cartaln. Wc wcut »a ioto the nlli^> to Iry and obtain aooae
warm milk for hrenkiast.

lien; also :lU Kvra a^lppp. No Knokc yet rose from tho duiniien of
tliu liLtle Ukbc« built of wood and ckv, and iu the aarroMr nourta lu iroot,
turrouiulul with hi;;h basket work, llw litxle caiti, plough*, and u^cul*
tural inetminertU of the peiuant*, wcru uHi |uled tq> leather, a* if they
too wer» fiwt aeleep.

Aa the inhatntouU, howerer, neither spoke uor understood s word of any
language but Widaehian, it wu impostible to wnke them in a polite and
Itomtaout maniwr. Tlw only thinj; we could do wu to break tluuuf[h a
bole in the fence, and, putting oui* mouthi to the d'wr, iu raiao an inarti-
culite kind of cry. Tlus we u'compunicd with a bonibanlment of kicks
and knodu at the door, and after some timA it was opened by a boy.
Tlic Frvnchntaii bcfjui " /.Ti liitrn! ihvh cher, faiUt vlU ! doMnrz twut
«H pni dr Utit ! du Itui — du lait!" Tiie Wnlachion lad wa« not much
tliL> wiMir for tliii conimuiitcmlioii, and would doubtWs luivo iliuumed the
door iu our f»et«, if 1 hod not Hown to Walndtiaii I.atin ut a Imt rct^urce,
•iclaiaimg " f^ipie duJceJ Lapte dttlceJ" while the Frenchman hehl out
torn* Buney.

The chink of roonny ii the mo«t tnteltigiblo of all lanjnugea^ and it was
not lon^ before a slcader 'VValachian girl appvurcd, leadtug some cows out
into the oouityard.

We here aaw for the first time the onlinary costume of a Walarhiau
nrl of thcw distiicta. Uvr h«ad wot bare, and her luur woi laid round
Dcr head in thick plaits like u crown. Tlwiae plaits arc mudo bo finnly,
that the girls sleep m them. Sim wore a loiig^ wliite loose cbemUc, deeo-
vated wid pink tlireadi, aud over thia, two loog gannents like aprons,
one before aud ono behind. Tlwso aprons are Uie prtocipal parts of tho

srs

THE tOWER CLtSSIjBA.

diea of * 'WakdiUn giri, irbo iuu»Uy Mpeada a greftt d<«1 of cak upon
dbem. The^ nre wonrvn of briKlit coloond wrnil, aod embn^iilrreil with
pncteniB in j-ellow. biue, sml wliitp. Tlipy mv cjJIod " J'regtugert.'' The
holiday Prv^VMU are bonWrod with gnid aii<) n1v«r ttiroad. They are
maJo qutte alike, botli bi^ii^ nttlier more than an ctl ioag, and mi ell
wide. Thoj' am Trin^l at the bottom witli an iinmeo-ie immber oTIoog
tanda and ribbons, whicli hung ticsrlv ta the j^uiid, aud fly about at
everj inov«iueaL Tbu b the part vf their coatumc most atiilung to the
Sttan^r.

Tho cows, irfcidi thff Walaehinn f^rl nov be^^ to millt, w«re miic-
nbly BCnall. and aliv bud to milk a whcilc herd to ^t a pallfuL I rcfnarked
that these people, like thoae nf South Riusin, hare iit-ver pjuperlj tamed
their eoivs, or aecuitoined thnu to giva their utilk fraoly. Tliey Have
(int to put the calf to tho udder, and thco drire it awaj-, w1iil« th« miUc-
mitid tnkn it:i place. The whole operation lasted an hnur, at the expira-
tion nf which, we ran off with our milk, which we haiidnj in at the Itttla
wiudow of tho prittt'ii hnuie, tLiul which tlio ladies, beii)g now awalce,
rendred with tlmukfulucM.

THE WWER CUSSURA.

At fivii o'clock we were a^in all neatad in our Tundir, relating to one
another the advetituK's of thu preceding- night. If our j-oaterday'» voj^ago
hud bueii i titcr&5tin^, to-day's w at no less hi. Below PJAvuhcvitca, the
Danube n tolerably wide, but we soon saw before lu a gat« formed of
two projecting roclt*, beyond which the rirer raw through a very narrow
channel. The pla«« wasi ncniitifully picturciu]iie. 'lb* broad iJanniM! before
and around ui, the lorcly verdure on the shnnr in the fiirL'^)u[id, Ktid in
the backgTouuJ the gigantic gale, over which towered t)io highest peak
ID ttie whole raago.— the HtcrlwKo nl nmre, — all thii formed n b»autifid
landfloape. 'niroui^h IIk' roiky gale we cauglit a giiinpee of a fivtb«r
pmpective, fonned hy projectiii); roiVi tdwernig on-r l\w troubled chan<
neb of the river, iind ti-niiinaled bv light miiriiing eloudx and vnpouni.

We Bonted into tho gate or Katan, tho wnter of which wa« ice-cold.
In the middle of the striMitii hmc a high roc\, round which the siig
Burgra foamed luid difhed iu wild fury. On eneh side of the shore lay"
gloaniy cavenix, and upon one of the«e rocks rat & mnjestic eagle, who did
riot deign to notice us lu we i>»»M<d. Crippled oaki and bvcclivs nestled
in rnlti on the rocks. Wo glided (juickly uirough, Jind though the rivw
wliirlwl and roared as before, llii* i^'cond jirbs, in which tliere are not bo
many litlle treaeherous rooks, is not nearly so dangerous as that of th«
Isliitz. Wo »oon ^laased out agmin into the bniad and ijuiet rhnnweh

On the Ilungwuui Hide n new road U hi-iiig e(iiti:(nie((sl. whicli in tO
lend friim Orsova tn Uipaknka near Urenlcnva, nlnng th&CliMurn. Wlien
it is finished the passenger* and good* going to Oraovii will jirocecd by
this landway from tho steambonti instead of incurriug the danglers of I '
Closura pass. The work proee«d( very slowly, be^-auiie in mtiny pla
the road hds to he cut out of tho solid roek-i, and in others viaducts lax
be n^sed oier clefts and chnfms in the mountains.

Oil tite Senian jidc mav be seen the tnwes of an olil Roinun road,
built by Trajan, and ealletl bj- the WalachJans the " Trajan uhL" I ,

A TTRKIgH FASn^ AT KEW Uftft6TA. 273

atlud the Wakdiinn boatmBo who Trajan vas, uti he uuwcred, "/m-
ptrator Humamveu" which tnisbt m«an t^iihra Rmuan ae Vitii%AuMi
■npuor. U hu htxn ptorvti that the NValnduanf tm {*t more dirrctty
deMsmded from th« Roiii.iii« thui (lio Ildinns. Their coiTU]ttioi) of tlte
Latin tBDgae h&as a curious and striking r«Beiublajice to the Ilatian Un-

glMgtl.

" That road is Trim's, die otlicr ia Ssecheayi'*," tnid one of my fcl*
low-poflMiigeR. The road ha» bo^n indMtl biult at lliv c^cul of the (Wani-
boat company, but the noble IluTi^nn,ii pn-triot. Count Suchcnyi, u the
life aitd xml of thn raidcTtakitig, aitd tlii^ road ts always caJhtl after him.

Af^ii the Walitchian iKntrnan adW out " Ikotialm Tmjrin r (Sco
the TaUet nf Trajaik.) This is the ccU-hratcd iiixcriutiaa nit in th« rock
by Ttnjaa to couiuieinnrate the work of hia lefptm*. The poijit where it
stanib u eatrcmnly beauttftd. Emerging: from the Dornnr nxky iiass, the
woodvd «hon< lay wtore lu, and b«y^^i *> ^ttJe isUnd, oovcred with ahrubf,
eom)icId» and grawy meadowt. Tli« tablet wu tiv> hij!;h aboie the mer
far tne to read, hut the remains of the inscription, whicli are m-Il knomi,
will bft ftiund in aimott every f^ide-book :

Imp. Cft-utr. Divi. Ncn'ae. F.

Ncrva. Trajauu*. Au;;. Germ.

Poutif. Maiimus. T. P-

PaU'r Patriae. Cos. P. P.

Monti 1> Bu.

8 ati.

Afterpasninf; the Tablet of Trajan we entered a broad and gunsv valln,
and ill rather lend than &u hour we saw Orsora, Hit last town iu tJii- Miii-
Urt' Kronli«-r, lying bi-furu us on a bend of the rirer, ai tlw vntrance of a
feitilo ralloy.

VISIT TO A TCRKI«H PASHA AT NEW OBSOVA.

At Orsova we encounUrred our Walachimi ttoyards again, hut the moat
amiable port of our travollinj^ sodety quitted ui, to the regret, panic ill iirly,
of tin- Frenchman anJ nijMlf, who mto-hcA tf> drive away Our melaiiehnly
by aome now cipcdition. Wc prepaictl accordingly for a visit to the
neighbooriug Turlciih Pasha of New Oreoia. A penniuion from the
Atutrian major commandiuff at Orura waj of coumc iicM^Mry (the iupe>
lior mafjiatratcs of the tnilitary fruutivr arc all niilit4u^-), and it was re*
l)uint« we sliould have a double Mcoit of hualth oiflicen and cUftom*hnuN
oSicent, in order tliat we miglit Dot smugg'le either the plague or a pockct-
fiiJl of ludt iiitu the couutry. The heoItL office provided ua likewiee with a
good bunt and six ■»!?, in whidi we fuiluuked, well [)rovitioti«l with
graphs, cheese, butter, bread, uKjal, ftc We w«n) toon again floatiis
iqxni the centra stream of the Danube, whence the^ prospeet i» tnBgiii>
Scent.

Austrian Ortora hat the a|ipeanine« of a dnuruhing place, stretcliing
for some distance alonr th« Danube, and to tome extent mto Uic eouutry.
Ita trade is conaidcFafale, and was inoie so during the French contincaUl
tyntt^i, when astouuduug a^uaiititiei of goMb were sent up tlu; Donubr. and
overland to OncMra, on nnyiiint of the merchants of Trieste, who derived
profits frvm their tpocuUtiou*, though the merchaudiao wu

474

VIgIT TO A TL-Blian VASHA AT KEW OBSOVA.

oftan douliM uid ItoMmI tn price on arcoont of the eoctntjic i
whieli it bed to hti forvftrdnd. Thii bnuvch of oomDwm hu now
bnt the wiumtiaD which it imparted to Uh! tnde of Uw Doaubc hu not
whfilljr diatppeutd.

TimcuJi Onom Iich on tn iihnd wincli dividee the Dritiube into two smu
of Dcorlv cijuitl bicftdttt. The l'orlr«« vtaa oiigiu*JI^ buUti in ft ri'iy solid
nuiiner, by the Anstrians, wImii tkcy were in ]KHMaioa of the isbuul. It
VM ibon «h1«1 to the Turks, Init in the but war but oa« Iwtwmn the two
CODiitric) VTM bniDbanltnl hr tvwnl months and «m r«tal;«n by the Ans-
tmns nRrr tlwy hml pretty Bwriy <k«tro)-ed it. In ihia coodiuoo it waa
reslnred to iho Tiirkir at tm pMOS.

On our landing', the hn]tb offiean uImwI ni botwoca Ana, and muched
utf alinig to ^e paalia's house, wbicn hy doM to th« w«ter. We vcva
•howa ap Main, ii health oflloer goinr before, sweeping and blowtuf^
tW ftaps dtan. Bud waniinj*- itt, w we rained our liherty, tioC to touch am
UtaoK Mt what «• i«ecav«l from their Imudf. We OMOmd all po«nlJa
cautMHi, keeping car anna ti^tly pmwtd to our bodies, and the FrcqichiDnn,
aa he told ni4>, wiu no cftntful of liii extreinidu*. that he did " his poaible"
to oonttact even his itoM' uul con to lotnewhiit leas than their cuitoniatj
ditneniions.

A Turkiih sentinel wu walking op and doiwn on t\w upp«r floor. In tba
biuikffround were Mme bareibot^ noj^Md ud Arabs, itaiing* at us wHh
all tliur cy». Thcae yttn thu liuujtcliuld nttendiuitd of tlm paulia, their
j&cketa and feiiefl Mnbrtndared witli ^>ld, mni llimr trounrn of vnst capa*
aoataeu. 1 waa •omcwhat etartli?d at seeiuc vrary xinng to oomplataly
oriental. I hncdljr kuon wh»t I had e^xpoeted to «M^ but I had teamtbf
lanrird I should w> immt^liaU'ly find myself mmnnided hy African
Arabia I) di^tiivnts.

U ]>iunMi \ac to bm the poor prriplA ihrinkinp; timidly lia^k, in tb«r
con»ciotuncaa of our dread of coining into eoiitiict willi thrm. Their
notions about pUg'iie and quarantine are 50 difTcreiit fnnn ours, that I
beiiievc they think tlio Kurojieaiis hold them for uiicloito, oud are too proud
to touch thmi.

\Vt! ciitfn-d the pcislia's roum, iW ^oors find windows of wWch
Standing open. It wu a small njnvrtiiiont, and cotitained no furniture
a fovr cmin', and, in tho corner opposite tlie door, a divan, on wluoh wt
tlie punha uid his interpreter. The piiuba waa n handsome inmi, abont 46
jrean (tld, wiUi a decided teiiileticy tonaidK ci>rpu1c>ricy. He had a red to
on hifl head, wore a blue frork tatit with a stiuiding collar, and from Utf
neck hong a larffc twswnt, radiant with jewels. Tltis was » mark of
hoaaur bestowed on him. for his public services, by the Ute sultan, fw, U
SMDU, we had now before us tlio nrehiteet of tlie forUsss of Venin, a man
distinfpudicd for his uulit^ir^' and mathcmaticiil ae>quiiements, ni/fn tm
hommc ttr mfrile jnjitr la TurtjHt'c, as some of my boyanls afterwards ex-
pressed tlieinselvex-

la salating him we took i-aro not to strike out too far, cither b&fore at
behind, lest we diould fall into collision with some rontn^ious object. Tho
pH.«ha n'tiinicd our salut*-, and lu* «>-r» aiil« placed chairs for «a in the mid-
dle of tli« rootn, on wluch we w«re pennitted to sit down, after they had
beto iasjKcted bj the health oSEcen.

We etpreMed a wiih to see the fnrtrcss, telling Mni we hail rome from
'VwnOA for tho purpwe. Ho immediately tiaid he would order one of hit

lat 1

ipoud^j

ebnt 1

oflWrs (o Afovr lu omr dio vmrliM, Init m^iuwttil ui, in tHa iriMin lime, to
rvmnin with him a short white. Th«re vu Dothin^ reiiuui«iilp, lie saidt
Kbnub lii« own hoiup, but he had a better one in Co[uundiKi[i)e, whil)M>r
he na^ ahaat tn return, anil where be jiraved us to viot hin. IIi* sait] all
thi? with the moit oblif^ig cirilitj--

I'ijiw umI coffee wo were allowed (o accept. The Dcgmes faanded them
with ontrtrvteliMl arios to the heittli offioen, and tliese prctenifid thsm to
ns. Tlie pip^t were tlic eMtliKtt and most ^ileiidid uticW of fumitute ia
ihn hoiur, and the coflcc and tobiic«i were tixceUcnt of their kind.

Tlie poshn told us he should very loon return to Constantinorde, and
had already paelted un most of hid tiling or ho would hare ikhown as
aome fine mathcmatica] iiuFtnuni-nta. He c^ed our attetition, howerer. to
■ flne Geneva watch, which he carried »botiI with hint, and also to a hand-
vomn tolmcope, through wlii(!h we were all In ttim requested to look. I,
fnr my parti lookt-d to tli« suug little houdo on tbe Aurtriao nde of the
mer, and felt «* if from tbe Tetr K-art of A*ia I wns outing it glance into
Eun>|H>. Nowhere, I boliove, do tlie ciiKfiiii* of the two (nittincnts meet
met <>ln9c)y Front to front, as in Torkish and Aiutnan Oraova,

Af^T tlie paslia had made me j^ve bini the addross of a good optician in
Vienna, he offered iij) a iwonIy com-
panion wa<i for declining tlicm, but I insisted on aorcpting tho offtir^ H-
vihtv, AS it nught be some time before we should acain narc an opportimity
of eiTierienring m* courtenua a reception from a Turkish patha, the more
•0 aa m the interior of Turkey, travellers arriving from tiemiany were not
likely to be eo well received as ou ttw Aiutrian fronti^T, whrrc the paaha*
wert> often dependent on tlic Austnan officen for many little acts of kind-
nna. My Frenchman grumbled, and was erid^itly out of all patieneo, but
1 WM firm, and an he could not leave me, seeing he would then hare heeit
obfigvd to itMOidon the e«cOTt> he wua forced to submit, tliough with a reiy
l!Md grace.

I wai partioulflrly amtued to see a copy of tho Augibnrg Mlpemnne
ZrHtiHti tn the room, l^e padka told me he n^ccivrd it re^ilarly, and that
hii interpreter lind fvfry day tn read it to him !n Turkiih, It was his
poincipal source of intiitTnation, he said, with respMrt to what was going oa
at Onsttantinople. I told hiiu be could not Imvo chuaeu a better paper:
that It was the one most genernlly rcai! in GCTmanv, and throiij^iout th*
Austrian dominion*, aiid «v«ii on tlie ahonw of the Blade Sea. in all the bc«t
ooffee-Iiousee of Odeesa. la Ilungary I told hun I had of^ seen, over tho
oofl!w*houmt in mull towns, a ngn on which nocliing waj j>ajnted but b
|)fpe. a cup of colTee, and a number of tJie Allgtmrine Xritnnff. I added
that t)ic ps.per wai behevcl to have a circula